Why does the ignition lock break. Ignition lock repair. Solving the problem without replacement

Ignition lock (hereinafter - ZZ) - a device that allows you to start the vehicle engine by turning the key. Like any other auto assembly, the ZZ can wear out over time, which subsequently leads to its incorrect operation. Read more about the cases in which you need to repair the car ignition switch and how to do it, we will describe below.

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Common ZZ malfunctions

Before you check and disassemble the ZZ at home, you need to understand why the device is stuck, stuck, or generally does not work.

The main breakdowns, as a result of which the repair of the ignition switch is required, are listed below:

The contacts are oxidized, which is associated with the ingress of moisture into the structure of the assembly or dampness in the passenger compartment as a whole. If for this reason the ZZ can block or jam, then later this will lead to more serious breakdowns.
Another malfunction, as a result of which jamming occurs, and it is not possible to turn the key or steering wheel, is mechanical breakdowns. Mechanical type ignition lock malfunctions include wear of elements, factory defects, or dirt getting inside the structure. Moreover, the ingress of dirt is the most common problem, due to which the key cannot turn, and the steering wheel, accordingly, is locked. In this case, if the steering wheel and lock are blocked, the device will have to be removed and disassembled for further cleaning.
The node may not work due to the burnout of the contacts, which in turn is due to power surges in the on-board network. The drops themselves usually occur when the engine is started.
Warping the key to run or elements inside the structure. In this case, you will either need to repair the ignition switch or replace it.

Diagnostics and repair

If the ignition lock is broken and the key does not turn, you can try to repair the assembly without replacing it. Of course, if possible (the author of the video is the Auto Electrician VCh channel).

Solving the problem without replacement

First of all, you should diagnose the condition of the node, for this you need a multimeter. Removing the ignition lock is an individual procedure for each car.

Before removing the ignition lock, you need to familiarize yourself with the technical features of this unit specifically in your car in order to prevent possible problems during repairs:

First you need to align the steering wheel and disconnect the battery, while the key in the ZZ turns to position 0.
Under the steering wheel are several bolts that fix the steering column trim.
Next, the fixing bolts of the ZZ are unscrewed, after which the key should remain in the set position. Depending on the vehicle, there may be more fixing bolts, and in general, the mounting system may be different. In any case, you need to dismantle the ZZ and disconnect all wires from it. When disconnecting the wires, they must be marked so that there are no installation problems later during installation.
After that, when the wire blocks are disconnected using a tester, it will be necessary to diagnose the health of the terminal closure in the block.
As for the repair, after the actions performed, the ignition switch is disassembled. A device can break down for various reasons, but troubleshooting is always the same. To replace the failed elements, the structure must be disassembled; for this, one of the components of the body is disconnected. By doing this, you will be able to see the failed system components and repair or replace them. When assembling, do not forget about lubrication - you need to lubricate all moving components of the system.

Replacement

Replacing the ignition switch is carried out in the same way - first the assembly is removed, then a new one is installed.

How to change the ignition switch on your own:

After dismantling, a new device must be installed in place of the old one. If you marked the wiring, then there will be no problems during installation.
Markings should be marked on the terminal harness, thanks to which it will be possible to connect the block correctly even if you have not marked it.
After all the cables are connected to the appropriate connectors, the ZZ can be installed in place. There is nothing complicated in the installation as a whole - you just repeat all the steps that you did when removing it, only in reverse order. ZZ is mounted in the installation site until it stops until a characteristic click is heard, after which the fixing bolts can be tightened. Further, a decorative overlay of the steering column, consisting of two casings, is put in place. On this, the repair can be considered completed, you just have to check the performance of the ZZ.

For ZZ, trunk and doors, as a rule, one key is used. This is because the same larvae are used in all castles. So, if the ignition switch is being replaced, then in order for the key to work with the trunk and doors, they will also have to change the larvae. Therefore, repairing the device is always preferable to replacing it. Accordingly, if you change only the ZZ, then the new key will be able to work in tandem with it, and you will have to use the old key to open the driver's door and trunk.

Instruction

In those that do not have ignition locks, the engines are started with a key or button, but in such cars a chip or key is needed with an electronic mechanism that immobilizes the vehicle (English immobilizer - "immobilizer"). Such a device is found in cars: BMW X3, BMW X5, BMW X6, Mercedes C-class, etc. If the ignition button fails, you will need to contact the company center to replace it, where you can also find out the prices for this type of work. If you try to do the same operation as with the lock, the engine may not start (on certain models, for example, Audi Q7, Volvo-XC70, BMW-7 series (E-65), etc.).

To start the engine in frosty weather, sometimes you have to try. The winter season sometimes becomes a real test, both for the car and for the driver.

The main cause of difficult starting of the motor, as a rule, is an insufficiently charged battery. But sometimes there are other reasons, which can be safely attributed to low-quality oils and fuel. Unfortunately, these factors are discovered too late. And just in those moments when you urgently need to go somewhere.

You will need

Ether.

Instruction

It is necessary to prepare for the morning start of the engine in the winter season in the evening of the previous day. When parking, and even more so open type, before turning off, press the accelerator pedal and increase the speed to three or four thousand within a few seconds, then sharply turn the key in the lock to position "0".

In the morning, having come to the parking lot, do not rush to start it right away. Turn on the headlights for a few minutes before starting the engine. This action will heat the electrolyte in the battery, which will make it easier to start the engine.

After turning off the headlights, insert and turn the key in the ignition, wait for the fuel pump to turn off automatically, and then try to start the engine by holding the starter with the key for 20 seconds. If the car does not start on the first attempt, then you need to take a minute break, and then try again to start the engine. For a successful morning start of the car in frosty weather, as a rule, no more than three attempts are required.

Reasons for this failure

There are several reasons that can cause the key to get stuck in the lock. They are:

Operation of the anti-theft lock in the steering column of the car.
Blockage in the element.
Worn out ignition switch.
Key distortion and mechanism wear.
Freezing of moving parts of the lock.

So, let's look at the above breakdowns and how to fix them in more detail.

Anti-theft lock

Almost all modern cars are equipped with such an anti-theft mechanism as a steering wheel lock.

This can happen if the ignition key is pulled out of the lock and the steering wheel is manipulated. At the moment of closing the locking mechanism, it happens that there are problems with turning on the ignition and starting the engine. As motorists advise, in case of trouble, you should not panic. It is enough just at the moment of trying to turn the key in the ignition lock at the same time with your left hand try to turn the steering wheel in one direction or another, and the lock will open, after which you can start the engine.

Mechanism clogging

Basically, the clogging of the lock occurs due to the long-term operation of the car in a dusty area. Or corny with the passage of a long period of time. Various materials that are used to lubricate the lock secret can act as a magnet to collect dust and other foreign parts. Repair of the ignition lock in this case is quite simple and does not require the process of removing and additional disassembling the mechanism. You just need to clean the lock with a tool like WD-40.

Using a special aerosol nozzle, we partially tuck it into the secret and wash the inside of the lock.

Wear of internal parts

After a certain ignition time has elapsed, it can also become unusable. This is due to the frequent contact of the parts of the mechanism and the key. As a result, the metal surfaces are erased and the gaps between them increase.

But first of all, you need to pay attention to the state of the key itself. It is also subject to wear - the characteristic teeth become more rounded, its width decreases. In this case, it should be compared with a spare key, and if there are serious changes in the form, a duplicate should be made. In case of defects in the secret of the mechanism, it is necessary to repair the ignition switch or completely replace it with a new one. As a rule, the symptoms that the element may soon jam are the same. This is a periodic wedging of the key, which becomes more frequent over time.

Lock key and keyhole

A twisted key can also be the cause of this type of failure. Opening frozen door locks and the trunk of a car (in the event that all locks are opened with one ignition key) and using the key for other purposes over time will certainly lead to its curvature and deformation of the working area. After that, the key does not turn in the ignition or even cannot enter at all. This factor is eliminated by aligning the key blade with the usual tapping of a hammer.

If the problem lies in the secret of the lock, namely in the excessive wear of its lamellas, then one cannot do without dismantling and disassembling the mechanism. As a rule, it is very difficult and troublesome to repair the secret, most often it is completely replaced. But what to do when the ignition lock is jammed somewhere far from home, and it is not possible to replace unusable parts? In this case, you can remove the secret from the lock body and remove all springs and lamellas from it. This process will allow you to start the car even with a conventional screwdriver, which is quite enough to get to the nearest parts store or repair service.

This is a rare issue, but still we will consider it. Condensation may collect in the lock when the machine is used in winter. And when the car cools down in the parking lot, it freezes, holding down moving parts.

And if the key does not turn in the ignition, do not worry once again and immediately disassemble it. Experienced drivers advise to start with a few "resuscitating" operations. Turn on the regular cigarette lighter for warming up, and when it heats up, bring it with the end part to the lock well - this can help. Another way is to heat the working plate of the key from an open flame source (matches, lighter) and insert it into the lock. After waiting a few seconds, you can try to turn the key. If nothing happens the first time, then the warm-up operation should be repeated. When there is a source of electricity, you can use a regular household hair dryer to warm up.

To lubricate the elements of the locking mechanism, you can use brake fluid, silicone grease, spindle and engine oils, for example, a regular WD gear. In the future, this will weaken the friction and wear of the secret, as well as prevent freezing of the secret lamellae.

How to remove the ignition switch

Next, we will consider how to dismantle the lock, using the example of a VAZ-2108 car. This repair process does not apply to complex work and can be done independently at home. This will require a standard set of tools and a little personal time.

The ignition lock (VAZ "eight") is located on the right side of the steering column.

Step by step withdrawal process

The first step is to de-energize by removing the negative terminal from the battery.

Then you need to remove the plastic decorative casing of the steering shaft by unscrewing all the connecting screws with a curly screwdriver. After loosening the fastening, the casing is divided into two halves and can be easily removed.

After that, you can remove the front panel of the lock. Before removing the ignition lock, disconnect the plug with power wires and the plug for connecting the safety relay from it.

To begin with, we insert the ignition key into it and turn it to the value “0”, thereby disabling the anti-theft device lock. Then we unscrew the bolts of the lock and remove the device.

If the reason for the removal was that the key does not turn in the ignition, then you can try to repair and replace its damaged areas, or completely replace it with a new device.

Installation of the lock should be carried out in the reverse order of removal.

Issue price

In the event that it is still impossible to repair a broken lock, you need to purchase and install a new one.

If you contact an official service center for help, then its employees will install a new original lock in a short time and with high quality. If you decide to replace the ignition lock with a service station, the price of the service will be about 1000 rubles.

If you are going to do it yourself, then first you need to purchase a lock suitable for the make of the car in the parts store. Depending on this, the cost of the device will vary. As a rule, parts of imported manufacturers have a higher cost (from 2 thousand rubles) than domestic ones (up to 1 thousand). As for the same VAZ, the price of the product can be from 300 to 700 rubles.

It all depends on the model and modification of the car of this production.

To prevent damage to the ignition lock in the future and increase its service life, it is advisable to periodically lubricate the moving elements and parts of the lock. It is enough just to apply a few drops of engine oil into the lock well with a medical syringe, and problems with it will not bother you for a long time.

So, we found out the main reasons why the key wedged in the lock. And they told how you can fix this problem with your own hands.

To start driving a car, you must first start the engine - every car owner knows this, and even people who are very far from automotive topics. On most machines, the electric charge from the battery to the starter is supplied through the contact group of the ignition switch. It is necessary to insert the key into the lock, turn to the first position to turn on the ignition, then to the extreme position. Only then will the starter work. But there are situations when the key does not turn in the ignition. Don't panic. This problem can be solved.

There are several reasons why this annoying malfunction occurs. Let's take a look at these causes and how to fix them.

The main causes of the malfunction

Among the most common problems that lead to a jammed key are the following:

Operation of the locking system on the steering column.
Freezing of the node due to low temperatures.
Pollution, natural wear of the locking mechanism.
Deformation of the key or lock parts.

Interlock operation

Any modern car is still factory equipped with a special steering wheel lock mechanism. This is one of the protective measures that are designed to prevent intruders from stealing a car. If this blocking system has worked, then it is natural that the key in the lock will not turn, so that the ignition cannot be turned on and the engine cannot be started.

In this unpleasant situation, experienced car owners recommend looking for a steering wheel position in which both the steering column and the lock will be unlocked. This can be done by inserting the key into the lock and at the same time turning the steering wheel in different directions. This is the only way to turn the key to the engine start position. In one of the positions it is unlocked.

When contacts freeze

Russian winters are so severe that in severe frost the castle also freezes tightly. A huge number of situations when the key does not turn in the ignition switch happen in winter, when temperatures drop below -20 degrees. The thing is that the lock mechanism in winter can accumulate condensate in itself. And then, when the car sits in the cold for a bit, these drops of liquid crystallize, thereby blocking the moving parts. As a result, the engine will not start.

In this case, experienced car owners are advised to simply try to warm the lock knot. This can be done using a conventional hair dryer or any other device - it is enough to direct a stream of warm air into the keyhole. It is not recommended to try to defrost the lock with hot water and other liquids that freeze in the cold.

The most efficient and effective option is to heat the key of the lighter or the fire of a match. The hot element is inserted into the lock and then gently try to turn it. If the key does not turn in the ignition switch the first time (and most often this is exactly what happens), then you need to repeat this operation two or more times.

So that with the onset of cold weather, the locks no longer freeze, experts recommend injecting brake fluid into the lock with a syringe with a needle. In the spring, this “well” is thoroughly cleaned with carburetor flushing fluid. If this is not done, the lock lubricant will begin to accumulate dust and eventually cause clogging. This can also lead to blocking.

Blockage in the castle

The driver goes outside, opens his car, inserts the key and feels that the key does not turn in the ignition, and it's not winter outside the window for a long time. Sometimes wells get clogged. During operation, a large amount of various debris easily gets into them. Dirt is actively collected (especially if the mechanism was lubricated with grease or oils to improve performance).

Ideally, you need to disassemble and thoroughly clean the lock. But this is not always possible. Experienced drivers, in order to continue operating the car without visiting the service station, resolve the issue with the universal WD-40 tool.

The tube from the can is directed into the well and poured until a clean liquid comes out from the inside. Often WD copes even with strong pollution. But if suddenly it didn’t work out, then you still have to disassemble the mechanism.

Wear of the surfaces of the contact group

During the operation of the car, the place where the metal elements come into contact with each other is wiped off. As a result, gaps grow. Both the key itself and the elements of the lock mechanism can be overwritten.

In the first case, if the key does not turn in the ignition lock of the VAZ, the state of the key is visually checked. If its teeth are rounded, and it has noticeably decreased in width or length, then it should be replaced. For comparison, take the second spare key. But it is better not to use it for everyday use. Experienced motorists recommend making a duplicate. If you continue to use the second key, then someday the situation will repeat itself. And then you have to change the lock.

It must be said that you can find out about a worn key or lock much earlier than jamming occurs - if the key in the ignition does not turn well, then this is the first call. If the key is stuck due to scuffs, you can usually try to find a position where the key can catch the secret part of the lock. To do this, many times carefully turn and press the key in the lock hole.

Deformations

Often the main cause of problems with the operation of the lock is the key. It is subject to deformation. Damage occurs in different cases (for example, when a car owner opens beer bottles with this key).

If the element is bent, you can level it with a wooden or rubber mallet. After alignment, it is worth trying again to insert it into the well.

Even more often there are deformations of the secrets of the castle. This leads to the fact that the ignition switch breaks. In this case, only dismantling the lock and removing crumpled springs and lamellas will help. Often in modern cars, only the complete removal of all the secrets of the lock helps. After such an operation, the machine starts up even with an ordinary screwdriver. Naturally, if the ignition lock is pulled out, the key does not turn, the Mercedes can be easily started even with a Swiss knife. This is only an option to get to the service and replace the element.

Not all locks can be removed without dismantling the entire assembly. Often you even have to remove the ignition switch from the steering column. At this stage, certain problems may arise with unscrewing the bolts - there are shear heads. First of all, they work on the hats with a hammer and a chisel, and then they work with pliers.

Other reasons

Sometimes it is much easier to solve the problem, since the reason is very commonplace. For example, if on models with automatic transmission the key in the ignition does not turn (Opel Vectra S, for example), then a problem with the position of the box should not be ruled out. Some car models are designed in such a way that the key cannot be turned until the selector is in neutral or park.

Another household method used by ordinary car owners in such a situation is light tapping on the key. This helps if it is difficult for him to get into the grooves.

Repair or new?

It would seem that it could be easier to replace if the key in the ignition does not turn? "Toyota" is or domestic VAZ, it does not matter. But not everything is so simple. Buying a lock at a disassembly is not suitable for many, since the used item will be in the same condition and is unlikely to last long.

In addition, another key from the new ignition lock will not work in the trunk and glove compartment lock. It will also have to be registered in the car (does not apply to domestic models). Of course, you can carefully disassemble the old key and remove the chip, and then rearrange it to a new one. But this is not possible for everyone. The most optimal solution is to repair the lock cylinder. So, the old keys will remain. And even if you need to cut a new key case, it will still be created according to the factory data.

The contact group of the ignition lock is a device that, when the key is turned, closes different contacts, thereby connecting the necessary consumers of electricity. Signs of its malfunction can manifest themselves in different ways, so we will analyze them all.

Different contact groups have different modes. That is, with fixed key positions in the lock, different sets of devices are connected in different cars. For example, on the "classic" with the minimum position of the key (when it can be pulled out), all outdoor lighting can fully work, and on the VAZ-2110 in the same position, only the dimensions can be turned on. Thus, the sets of symptoms of malfunctions of the contact group of the ignition switch for these vehicles are also different. But in all the cars of the world, these malfunctions still have much in common.

The most important symptom of a malfunction of the contact group of the lock is the simultaneous failure of a whole group of electrical devices. This happens because within the group, several consumers of electricity are powered through each contact. For example, low and high beams, turn signals and reversing lights turn on only when the ignition is on. If the contact through which power is supplied to these consumers, say, burns out, then current will not be able to pass through it and the above lighting devices will “fail”.

When several devices stop working, at first glance, unrelated, almost always the case is in the contact group of the ignition switch. Another “narrow” point is the fuse box, where several consumers can also be “hung” on each socket. However, the same headlights are too powerful consumers, therefore, even in the classics, they are separated by separate fuses and their failure, together with the reversing lights, clearly indicates a malfunction in the contact group of the ignition switch.

Based on this main principle of diagnosing a contact group, other signs can be easily deduced:

Changing the group in most cases is easy. After all, it is located in the ignition lock, and access to it is difficult only by the casing of the steering column. The instructions for replacing the contact group for each car are different, depending on the design of its lock, so look for information on removal and installation in the repair manual for your particular car.

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