On the cold steel market, there are many various kinds knives, but there are still people who want to make their own knife at home. And rightly so, because it will be exclusively their product, original and not like others.

This article will help a beginner to understand the manufacture of knives in the absence of special conditions and tell you how to choose the right materials for the manufacture of knives and in in general terms will tell you what to do with them, so do not judge strictly 🙂

To make a knife at home from start to finish, you will need:

- blade or material for its manufacture;
- materials for the handle;
- additional parts for the manufacture of pommel, guard, bolster - or ready-made from the store;
- fasteners (depending on the manufacturing strategy - epoxy, screws, etc.)

Blade for making a knife

To begin with, consider the question of what needs to be done with the blade. Firstly, making it yourself at home will be extremely problematic - if you do not have the opportunity to forge the blade yourself, therefore best solution will buy ready-made, for example, a Lauri 125 blade made of carbon steel.

Where to buy a blade for making a knife?

Sources selling prepared for homemade there are quite a lot of blade knives: you can buy them both from private masters at the same guns.ru or at cold steel exhibitions, buy blades in other online stores; or you can order an industrial blade from the manufacturer, including on Chinese auction sites, such as ebay or aliexpress.

There are very high-quality and inexpensive catalogs of blades from Finnish (and indeed Scandinavian) manufacturers, I can recommend them.
If you really have difficulty finding a suitable blade, just take a sheet of metal, for example, a sawn off piece of spring, give it a shape and work with it.

Of course, the purchased blade should be finalized. To do this, you need to take a file or even a circle and rough water stones(if your product is very "raw" and you still need to remove the descents) and hone the blade to desired type and shapes, and then use sandpaper to grind out all the bumps.

The easiest way to check the quality of the product is to wipe the finished blade and breathe on it. From a quality blade, perspiration will come off without any irregularities, and it will lie without breaks. At the same time, it is better to conduct such an experiment several times and from different angles.

What steel to make a knife from - questions for other articles, you can read the materials on our website, for example, an article.

DIY knife handle

Next, we will deal with the future handle of your knife. It is best and easiest to take a tree for her, since in the future wooden handle a self-made knife will look nice, and your hand will not freeze from it. Variety wood fit absolutely any - especially since you are just learning.

The simplest do-it-yourself knife handle is made from old legs of Soviet tables, chairs, sofas or armchairs, because furniture used to be made famously. Using a hacksaw, we saw off a piece of the desired length, then roughly cut out the shape of the handle that we would like to see on the finished product. It is also necessary to make a recess in the handle for the shank of your blade - for example, drill and process with needle files. Whether this hole is through or not through depends on finished construction knife.

Ideally, you would also need to draw an approximate drawing of a knife that is made at home. You already have a blade for this and the approximate dimensions and outlines of the handle. And according to the drawn layout, it will already be easier to make a finished knife, bringing it to perfection with sandpaper after assembly.

If you already more or less know how to make a knife with your own hands, you can buy bars of stabilized wood (you will get very beautiful and strong handles), or try to make a handle from typesetting birch bark or pressed leather; you can make a braided handle - there are a lot of options. Go to the next level of "knife building", so to speak 🙂

Important details for making a knife at home

In addition to these two main parts of the knife, there are also additional elements:

Garda - a part specially designed to protect the hand of the owner of the knife. You can make it from metal or wood, or you can buy it ready-made in specialized stores. It is possible to make a knife without a guard or a combat stop at all - such a knife is not a melee weapon.
Bolster - serves both to decorate the knife and to rid the handle of excessive load. It can be made from wood or metal - for example, make a bolster from a coin or a soldering iron tip.
The pommel is opposite to the blade, performs such functions as: changing the balance of the finished knife, aesthetic function (for beauty). Also, the pommel often plays the role of a nut that is screwed onto the shank (if you have a through one). The pommel of the knife handle is made from various materials - but it is better to stick to a single style.

Knife assembly

Having considered all the details of the future knife, putting everything together, preparing and processing the constituent ingredients of this “recipe” a little, you can turn directly to the knife assembly itself. To do this, you need a few more simple things: sandpaper for handle finishing and polishing finished product, two varieties of binary glue (epoxy and " cold welding”), hammer or mallet, paper tape (to seal - protect the blade and other polished metal parts of the assembled knife from scratches when processing the handle with sandpaper and giving the homemade knife a completed shape).

First you need to dilute the epoxy and coat the leather gasket with it, which we then apply to that part of the blade that will be inside the tree - the shank. Next, “cold welding” is cut and quickly placed on the bottom of the hole drilled in the handle for the tail of the blade, where it is actually inserted.

Gently driving the blade inward with a hammer or mallet will give the knife its final look. For a while, it would be ideal to hold assembled knife clamp while the epoxy cures. In the end, a knife made with your own hands at home will only have to be sanded and decorated at your discretion.

as more simple option it is possible to make an overhead handle - from two plates (wooden, for example), which are attached to the blade shank on the right and left. Such a handle is usually fastened with screws, in addition to epoxy, but usually looks simpler.

When you have shaped the handle perfectly and ensured that your homemade knife- you can start making 🙂

Knives are currently popular not only in the kitchen, but also among people who have connected their lives with extreme outdoor activities - these are: fishing, hunting, tourism, etc.

On the market in modern time there are various knives: Variable models, different sizes and designs. But none of them can replace a knife that is made by hand.

How to make a knife with your own hands is often written on the Internet, and you should try to make them.

Knives: types and main properties

On the photos of the knife on the Internet, you can see that each product is a creative element created from various mechanisms.

There is a large classification of knives depending on their functionality: combat, tourist, folding (for example, a butterfly), knives designed for hunting, multi-tools, bivouac knives, as well as ordinary kitchen knives.

Kitchen knives are bought ready-made, but knives intended for hunting or for tourism can be easily made at home on your own.

There are also such knives as survival knives, the main task of which is to help with existence in conditions wildlife. This option is relevant for tourists and hunters.

The blade of such a knife is usually no more than 12 cm. This length is sufficient for cutting wood, processing game, cleaning fish, or other similar actions. The small dimensions make it easy to transport such a knife.

In the manufacture of such a knife, great attention should be paid to the material intended to create the blade. Steel is often preferred.

Steps to create a knife

To get a positive result during the manufacture of the knife, you must first make an outline drawing of the knife. In this case, you can know in advance what exactly you want to achieve in the end.

Instructions on how to make a knife at home includes a number of rules.

Making a knife step by step

Cut out the blank for the future knife. Relying on finished drawing, cut out the shape for the knife.

You will need a knife sharpener. With its help, bring the base to the desired shape. And after that, an already understandable blank will be in the hands, where you can distinguish the places of the handle and blade.

Rough sharpening of knives. At this stage, you clearly need to know what your future knife is intended for. If it is made for hunting, fishing or hiking, then it is better to give preference to the blade type of sharpening.

And, if the knife is created to function in the kitchen or in the garden, then a razor type will do.

Do not expect perfect sharpening from this stage, because this is just a draft, intended to determine the future shape.

If the blade is pre-prepared, then you can start working with the handle. The handle is made using the most various materials- these are: wood, organic glass, bones, thick types of leather, etc.

Note!

Having cut out the workpiece to create the handle, you should check whether it fits comfortably in your hand, as well as its proportionality with respect to the blade. The handle for the knife is fixed using the riveting method.

The shape for the foot handle is attached using a grinding machine.

The knife is ground and polished on the basis of sandpaper.

The final sharpening of the blade is done after sharpening on a sharpener, also using sandpaper.

At the end, the finished knife is polished with velvet or polish.

Note!

As you can see, the process of making a knife with your own hands is not that difficult, so everyone can try their hand at this area.

You can also set the necessary and desired design for the future knife. Special attention pay attention to the handle during the design process.

knife design

Since it is by the handle of the knife that the rest can then judge your creative thinking and status.

Some write their names on the handles of the knife, draw certain patterns and sketches in the form of tattoos.

The simplest knife can be built in emergency in the forest, the main thing is to find the materials necessary to create it.

Note!

It is worth finding only the cutting part for the knife, and then you should insert it only into the handle, which will be in the form of a piece of wood, ropes or leather.

DIY knife photo

no-rik 21-11-2010 01:17

Do you want to quickly and inexpensively make a guard for a knife? There is nothing easier! The legality or illegality of this procedure can be determined according to current legislation RF, only
examination of edged weapons (conducted in the laboratory). If you don't want problems with the law - or engrave a number on a knife and enter it in a hunting ticket,
or take a look at the current version of the law on weapons and check your product for compliance with the parameters of a household knife. All responsibility lies with you, so it’s better not to tell anyone that you had a hand in making a knife, the information here is provided for informational purposes only.
Everything you need (bolts, nuts and cable clamps are available from
any hardware store).
And now, in fact, the technology:

DesignerHP 21-11-2010 01:23

Are you all right?

chizhoff 21-11-2010 01:34

no words.

Sagamore 21-11-2010 01:40

no-rik, patent the invention urgently! But actually, it was necessary to spread your idea yesterday, today is already Saturday.

quote: Originally posted by no-rik:

so it’s better not to tell anyone that you had a hand in making a knife

Yes, it will be very difficult to prove

FIXXXL 21-11-2010 02:29

did shit and praise
respect to you in all pockets

Ivan Tsarevich 21-11-2010 03:32

Come on, dude decided to cheer people up. He did it, don't take it too seriously

FIXXXL 21-11-2010 03:50

quote: to cheer up

no, petrasyans with anal lubrication are far away

Matvey72 21-11-2010 07:06

Yip @ t-dig invention ..... :-O
Just don’t tighten the nuts too much, otherwise you’ll break your “knife” in flames :-)

Kazbich 21-11-2010 07:43

If you cut the studs right behind the nuts, it would be quite elegant. And with such "tails" - it's more of an "artistic guard, traumatic".

Although, initially the knife itself is rather a pure "metal" and for something else it is quite unsuitable (at least in terms of the length of the RK and hardness).

GreenKir2901 21-11-2010 10:10

LAG 21-11-2010 10:24

Well done resourceful...

puha 21-11-2010 10:25

Cool themes sometimes turn out))

BigMonster 21-11-2010 10:29

Do you think transferring to the Workshop will be a sufficient punishment?

Avotar 21-11-2010 10:39

no need to go to the workshop, the person is already punished - with a fright, he made such a guard for self-defense.

GreenKir2901 21-11-2010 11:17

although, for a Jedi sword, a very self-sufficient design, if not wrapped with threads. as in 6 photos

TopperHarley 21-11-2010 11:55

Jedi sword requires two batteries (c)

GreenKir2901 21-11-2010 12:26

agree

DerRock 21-11-2010 13:06

What a horror.
It would be fair to transfer to the workshop. We laughed, let them laugh there too. Laughter prolongs life

Kazbich 21-11-2010 13:59

We laughed, let them laugh there too.

Well, if you do not make a "quickly made", but a "quick-detachable" guard - everything is done a little differently. How it turned out here - indeed, smiled a little. The approach is non-standard and rather "elegant".

ETE 21-11-2010 14:27

Liked. No, not a guard. I liked that the head works.

DerRock 21-11-2010 14:40

No, horrendous to do - you don’t need a big mind. Such guards can be invented from anything. Here's an example: the blade is made of some kind of piece of iron with the help of a huge scary file, the handle and guard are made of some stuff bought in a car shop. It was done 15 years ago, so I'm also a knifemaker in the past

Kazbich 21-11-2010 14:59

quote: Originally posted by ETE:

I liked that the head works.

The solution is indeed a little non-standard. Not even a "winding" of the handle, but almost a "knitted jacket" around the "stops". Damn, well, almost like a kind of web design, nothing more.

IMHO - if the "source" is not at all for those purposes, then the "result" is perceived as a "design refinement", and not as a "working tool".

And to "screw" - I can stick in and a simple screwdriver from the spare parts kit from the S-200 air defense system, manufactured in 1976, with no worse result. Even with a slightly cracked handle. And what kind of screwdrivers for "Assembly" in TsKIB SOO were made from fragments of tetrahedral bayonets - you can't even imagine.

sky 21-11-2010 16:38

current 1 question... WHY???

Dimon Hell 21-11-2010 17:03

Ipat, if they don’t cheat, then they definitely roll!
I just want to say: "What kind of blizzard are you stupid bitches carrying?" (C)
What the hell is that anyway? At first I thought that this was a joke, you know, a joke of humor, like a pedrosyan ... But the campaign of the TS is simply not in itself such a homemade.

ironwolv 22-11-2010 01:22

1. The design is scary, but you can learn something from the idea.
2. reminded someone of a designer dagger with a skeletal handle, winding, and blue anodized inserts. Sorry I lost the photo
3. It would be better of course on Friday
4. what about a person attacked? Photographed in detail, described in detail, not rude to anyone, rarities not spoiled by tuning ...... We become evil

dgx 22-11-2010 14:24

a normal junk punk knife turned out, why do the uncles swear?

if you don’t wrap it with thread, it’s even pretty in some way, not like a “work knife”, God forbid, but like a metal sculpture. in this context, perhaps it is worth considering ...

HCDM 22-11-2010 15:52

THERE IS A TRANSFER?!

No, well, it's somehow not fast. Quickly - tie something out of a rope.

SCoffer 22-11-2010 16:23

Where is the constructive discussion?
I propose to twist the guard perpendicularly through the holes (holes) in the blade, so at least it will not be removed back through the handle at the most inopportune moment.
But it will be just as uncomfortable and traumatic.

quote: Originally posted by DerRock:

No, horrendous to do - you don’t need a big mind.

Nothing of the kind, even horrifying things, you need not only the mind, but also properly sharpened Hands

Kazbich 22-11-2010 16:38

quote: Originally posted by dgx:

Why are the uncles arguing?

According to the original title of the topic - "Quickly make a guard to the knife" - but what's wrong? Fast - exactly. Garda - well, I would make it more accurately from the same components. But definitely longer.

There is nothing to argue about - they offered the option "Quickly, cheaply and angrily."

The original wording - corresponds completely.

Palitch 25-11-2010 19:58

I’ll say shuriken, they won’t believe it, but the guards for pokeballs are really greedy

Argus_A 25-11-2010 23:05

osanos 26-11-2010 13:06

quote: Originally posted by Skye:
current 1 question... WHY???

nope, it's better to ask like this:
-And what, chlorpromazine does not help anymore?

preved-medved86 19-12-2010 09:11

quote: Originally posted by Palitch:

I’ll say shuriken, they won’t believe

Luxembourg 20-12-2010 12:12

TS, I would advise such a tactic to convert the plane into a serrator.
To do this, knock on the ax with the Rocket.
Will be cool!

no-rik 30-11-2011 18:02

My task was to increase the functionality of a knife bought in a store at the expense of the guard. Therefore, I ignore the evil comments of aesthetic knife lovers. By the way, it is not a fact that after installing such a guard, the knife will be regarded by the police as a melee weapon. But for those who do not want problems, such a guard can also be made quick-release. This will require three cable clamps: N8, N6 and N5.

First, in clamp N8, with a round file, increase the size of both holes towards the center so that the distance between the inner edges of the holes in the clamp N8 coincides with the distance between the inner edges of the holes in the clamp N5

Then we grind the outer parts of the N8 clamp on the sandpaper to open the holes on the outside:

Also on the emery we grind both parts of the flat area of ​​the N8 clamp a little at an angle, so it will be easier to disassemble the hail

Then we take an N6 clamp and use a round file to increase the size of the holes, holding the file as in the picture,

so that the rods in the clamp N6 can diverge, passing the workpiece from the clamp N8:

Then we install the hail on the knife in its narrow place, choosing the length of the threaded rods so that they are 4 cm longer than the width of the knife in this place (2 cm on each side)

We insert the workpiece from the clamp N8

And we adjust the nuts to the stop (do not tighten much, just fit tightly).

Then we put the clamp N5 on the rods. The design should sit tight and not dangle, while being easy to disassemble when removing the N5 clamp from the rods.

Then we stop the nuts on the thread (by welding, riveting, punching, loctite or whatever) in the position in which they were fitted. We assemble it back and fix the N5 clamp on the rods with an elastic band

It is better to take an elastic band with a cloth coating - it suddenly does not tear from aging, it only loses elasticity

So, after removing the clamp N 5 from the rods, the guard is disassembled into 4 items:

Carry a small magnet on the scabbard so that these items do not suddenly fall under the feet of the police when you need to discreetly disassemble the guard.

Topikstarter decided to apat topic once a year? Why this necroposting?

After a couple of years, TS will come up with something really worthwhile ..

Itzhak Stern 09-12-2011 20:33

Main question. Why do you need a guard?

vconst 09-12-2011 21:32

quote: Originally posted by Itzhak Stern:

Why do you need a guard?

all the more so traumatic guard, which offers the vehicle. just PPC what will happen to the hand if he, relying on this home-made horror, hits his brush on these wretched screws

gwathedhel 09-12-2011 23:22

Ty ... The right lanyard turns into a belt guard in 30 seconds (well, it also depends on the knife). And it is reliable, if you need to control the safety of the knife, and simply. And he is clean before the law: he did the work, untied the knot - everything was as it was.

How I made a knife with my own hands and what came of it.

There are many offers on the Internet from a piece of steel of the required parameters (length / thickness / steel grade) to finished blades. I chose the option with a finished blade, since I can hardly make a blade so carefully myself.

So, about the blade itself. Steel 65X13, stainless steel. Steel 65X13 is used for the manufacture cutting tool, kitchen knives, saws, removable blades, scalpels, razor blades, in the food, woodworking, medical and other industries. Hardness 54-56 units according to Roxwell. And if you translate into Russian,

1. It does not rust, you can forget to clean it after use, the knife will not lose its “marketable” appearance.
2. Common, cheap.
3. Easy to sharpen, no need for expensive bars/tools.
4. It gets dull easily.
5. It bends, the knife will not crack from a small transverse force.

Garda and heel cupronickel.

A small tail decided for me how to mount the handle. It happens as a rider or consignment note. Here only a rider is possible, and it is necessary to lengthen the tail.

We take a hairpin, and we machine a groove. Tools - hacksaw, needle files, files.

I drilled 2 holes in the stud, corresponding to the holes in the tail, tried it on. Sits down with tension. Fastening screw + nut. I sharpened it with sandpaper in 5 seconds. In the absence of emery, you can do it with your hands, it will take up to half an hour. In principle, it was possible to do without grinding, but then you would have to increase the hole in the wood for the tail, and this is the consumption of glue.

sawed out mounting hole. A little sloppy, you can see jagged edges.

More examples!!! I hurried and got too wide a hole. It is good that these flaws will be closed with a blade.

Do not forget to protect the blade from accidental scratches.

Final landing. big gaps not noticed, then you can fix the hairpin.

Grinded the nuts and bolt heads on the grinder. Now the hairpin is a continuation of the blade. You can bend, break, disassemble is no longer possible.

A blank of two pieces of oak, most likely glued together with PVA. At that time, there was no solid piece of wood, I had to make it from what I had. Under the handle, you can use oak, beech, birch, walnut, birch bark and, in general, almost any tree, except for conifers. But for some reason I respect oak. I don't understand why. The structure of the oak is coarse-grained, individual fibers are clearly visible. The same beech has a fine-grained structure, it is processed more easily (my personal opinion, I do not pretend to be the ultimate truth).

As my Trudovik said: “A hole in the butt **, and this is a technological hole.”

looms general form"Products No. 4".

Flaws with a guard did good. Marking, trying on every step, and preferably half a step.

With such a machine I grind thin sections of the workpiece.

On right seat under the guard On the left, a cavity from a knot has opened (you will have to fill it with glue). The shape of the handle is more or less classic, barrel-shaped with a separate place for the index finger.

The final shape of the handle. The front divider is gone. It became more convenient.

Soldered a piece of metal rod (paperclip) to the heel. This rod will go into the hole next to the stud and will be filled with epoxy.

Pochemichim?)) I breed epoxy, wood shavings at hand. Epoxy is easy to dose with a syringe.

It is possible without sawdust, but they say it will be stronger. Who is speaking? - everyone says. There are special forums for knifemakers, everything that was not clear was asked there.

A knife glued together pleases with its appearance. It remains to grind clean, cover with some kind of composition so that moisture / sweat is not absorbed. Impregnation is needed and is not discussed, but there are a huge number of compositions. At first I thought to soak with linseed oil and cover with wax, but it really hurts ( linseed oil unrefined) dries for a long time. And there is no special cleanser. Subtracted that it is possible to cover with ointment "rescuer". Ingredients: ghee, olive oil, sea buckthorn oil, beeswax, ... Just what you need. Both oils and waxes. On every firefighter checked on a piece of wood. Dried out in 3 days.

After grinding, filling the cavities with glue, grinding, grinding, grinding, grinding cupronickel heels and guards with sandpaper and goi paste, covering with the “rescue” cream, drying in NU, manually rubbing the cream residue with a soft cloth and removing it with a cloth / napkins, we have the final result. "Product No. 4".

The photographer and me are not very good, I apologize for the quality.

The tools that I used in the manufacture: a hacksaw, needle files, files, a drilling machine / drill / screwdriver with a special sticky circle, a grinder, an engraver, a sharpener.

Well, at the request of the workers ... I found photos of the knife-making process, which I took more than a year ago. I think it will be interesting to see the whole process of "witchcraft". My workshop is regular table in the basement, a Dremel machine with various attachments, a drill press, a vise, various hand tool for metal and wood. Here is the beginning of the knife - this is its design, after drawing several options, returning to them, correcting and throwing out the erroneous ones, the final three applicants for manufacturing with the selected blade appear. In this case, the choice fell on a stainless steel blade from A. Biryukov, steel 95X18.

We make the final choice, here it is - the lowest one - the soul approved:

A guard will be made from a piece of bronze lying next to it. We transfer its outlines to the metal

and start deleting the excess drilling machine, first with a drill

and then with a Dremel grinder attachment

Roughly sawing off the guard

And then we mark the profile of the groove for the blade

According to the marking, we drill a groove

And especially precisely it is necessary to adjust the blade and the guard - the gap between them, well, simply must be minimal

I remove excess metal from the inside of the guard with the same grinder on the machine

Then I change the nozzle to another profile and cut out the draft profile of the guard from the outside

Well, the guard is planted and fitted and roughly peeled off. During all operations, the blade is carefully protected with masking tape.

Now, in a similar way, we cut out a butt plate from bronze (or a bolster, as you like)

We profile it in the same way.

Turning the final detail profile

We cut a groove for attaching a lanyard with a Dremel using engraving cutters

After that, for lack of cupronickel at that moment, we cut the Hong Kong dollar into a spacer and bend it strictly along the profile of the guard. The second spacer is just made of thin stainless steel

The same story with the buttstock, only it needs to be securely fastened to the handle. Therefore, I drill it and solder bronze pins, which will be recessed and glued into the handle tree

We grind the dollar spacers to size and beautifully process them along the perimeter under the branch, here it is called filework

Then we cut out a piece of amboyna root from a bar right size. In it we drill and bore a through groove for the shank for the entire length of the handle - for strength. On the shank we make deep zerubins with emery for reliable fastening to the glue in the tree. Well, it's simple, because there are no photos ...

After that, the most crucial stage begins - the final fitting along the profile of curved surfaces, tightly, without gaps

The whole structure is ready for gluing. Between the spacers for contrast there will be layers of glove leather, impregnated with epoxy when glued together

We repeat this fascinating procedure with the back, given that he needs two mounting holes for the pins

Here, everything is on epoxy, tinted black with a rod from a pen, in a clamp, dries

The smallest remains finishing of the entire product, and here (after the whole process, which took, if I'm not mistaken, about 30 hours in total):