Do-it-yourself block masonry. Laying the first row of aerated concrete on the foundation: an important stage in the construction of walls. How wall lintels are installed

Thanks to building blocks, the previously popular brick lost ground. Concrete block laying is faster, reliable and economical.

Features of concrete blocks

Concrete is the main binding component of building blocks. The remaining components included in the composition determine specific features material. Let's imagine the most popular types of concrete masonry blocks:

expanded clay concrete blocks;
ceramic;
foam blocks;
cellular concrete;
gas silicate.

Blocks have different sizes and the shape of a parallelepiped.

The material has several advantages:

soundproofing;
installation speed;
thermal insulation;
durable (over 100 years);
strength;
resistance to rodents and microorganisms - mold and fungus;
light weight with high density;
inexpensive (relative to brick -35%).

The cost-effectiveness of hand-made concrete blocks is made up of not only the price of bricks. Here and easy foundation, low transportation costs and quick installation. Building a block foundation simple task: The blocks do not need a heavy base, a simple tape will do.

Flaws

There are not many of them, but they significantly limit the use of building blocks. For example, block walls are not able to withstand the weight concrete floors, you will need additional reinforcement with a special belt or use timber.

Materials and tools

It is worth taking care of tools and materials before starting work. The set depends on the selected blocks. Let's list everything:

Solution preparation

For the installation of concrete blocks, both cement and adhesive compositions are used.

Mortar of cement and sand

For a high-quality solution of concrete blocks, high-level cement is needed, not lower than M 400. The sand will need to be homogeneous, without lumps of clay. You need to get rid of large inclusions.

There was an ideal ratio of mortar for laying concrete blocks with the following proportions of sand and cement:

1 hour cement;
3 hours of sand.

Water is added at the rate of 0.7 to the cement.

The desired plasticity is obtained by considering how wet the sand is and adjusting the mass with additives.

The solution is prepared in small portions, constantly stirring, so that the mixture does not delaminate and does not set.

Universal composition, suitable for use when laying any block products. It has high level adhesion, which allows you to make a seam minimum thickness- no more than three millimeters.

To prepare glue with your own hands, you will need a ready-made dry mixture, water, plastic container And electric drill. The composition must be stirred until completely homogeneous at low speeds. It is important to observe the given proportions. The size of the batch will determine the speed of your work. When laying, it will become clear what it should be so that the batch of glue goes into action and does not have time to harden.

Preparatory work

Preparation for the block laying process comes down to the purchase and delivery of materials. The general procedure for using blocks is to prepare the mortar, provide a horizontal surface and waterproofing.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for laying concrete blocks:

Future corners are marked, a cord is pulled. This is necessary for even masonry.
A layer of mortar is applied to the waterproofing material, a block is placed on top. It is strongly pressed to the base.
Sewing is in progress. It depends on the final finish.
Neighboring blocks are stacked similarly. Don't forget to control the styling. It should be smooth at all stages.
The second row fits in the same way.
The third row can be laid using adhesive foam. It is applied with a gun in 2 rows.
All walls are built up at the same time to produce reinforcement at the same level.
Every five rows, it is necessary to strengthen the walls: grooves are made around the perimeter, reinforcement or mesh is laid in them. Some blocks have special niches.
The roof gives a serious load on the walls. To evenly distribute it, you need an armored belt, after laying all the rows. They do it on the site with the help of wooden formwork, frame and concrete. Strength is gained under a film within 7 days.
The masonry can be considered finished and proceed to the facade cladding.

These were general tips. The technique of laying various blocks has its own characteristics. Let's take popular varieties as an example.

They include concrete mix and foamed clay (expanded clay). The voids allow for reinforcement.

We carry out waterproofing of the foundation with the help of a rolled roofing material: we fix it on a cement screed.
We start laying from the corner and move around the perimeter.
The horizontality of the masonry is determined using the level. It is important that the beginning and end of the row match.
The system has a ridge type, there will be no through cracks, so the vertical seams are not filled with mortar. Horizontal seam - no more than ten centimeters.
Build all the walls at the same time: load-bearing and internal.
Installation can be done as normal concrete mix, and glue-cement.

They are also called gas silicate. They are characterized by high porosity, which leads to gradual decompaction of the material. In the future, cracks will appear, the structure will begin to collapse. There is a way to avoid these troubles by providing reliable waterproofing and pre-reinforced walls.

When you finish laying the perimeter, take a break for 12 hours.

Masonry is easy due to the small weight and size of the blocks.

To finish the walls of aerated concrete, take the finished gypsum plaster. The vapor barrier of gypsum will protect concrete blocks from destruction.

Foam concrete blocks

Blocks give smooth surface, that's their advantage. Allows you to save on leveling materials.

Tip: make the height of non-load-bearing walls less than the load-bearing ones by 2 cm. This way you will reduce the load on the partitions from the floors. The gap formed from the difference in height is easy to fill with mounting foam.

Cell Blocks

Align the base, wait until the foundation gains strength, start laying.
Use glue as a mounting compound. For the first layer - cement-sand mortar. To enhance the plasticity of the mixture, add liquid soap or plasticizer.
Laying starts from the corners, observing the direction: a row in one direction, the other in the opposite direction.
After installation corner elements start building walls.

Let's bring practical advice builders, how to properly lay a concrete block.

Before use, the blocks must be treated with a wet brush - the surface will absorb the glue better and the masonry will become stronger.
Instead of jumpers, use corners.
Use fishing line when filling in the space between the corners. Stretch it between the upper inner edges. You will get a clear outer line. It will be more convenient if the fishing line is colored.
Apply the solution not with a trowel, it is much more convenient - block by block, rubbing evenly.
Lay each block at some distance from the previous one: it will move in by itself and grab a little assembly mix.
Do not hit hollow blocks when leveling: products are fragile and easily damaged.
In the process of work, you will need parts of the blocks. If there is no experience in breaking blocks, use an angle grinder.
With the adhesive method of mounting masonry concrete blocks, the seam is thinner, and the thermal insulation of the room becomes better. Despite the higher price of glue, the costs will be justified due to the low consumption compared to cement mixture.
Sometimes the last row of blocks does not match the desired height of the wall. It's not scary - the blocks are easily trimmed with a hacksaw.
Check the diagonals between the corners, the evenness of the masonry immediately and often, then the defect cannot be corrected. Use building and laser levels, plumb lines. If you want maximum accuracy, you will need a level.
The inner ends are insulated with polystyrene foam.

If the blocks have a clear geometric shape, glue can be used. The wall will be monolithic, and the seams will be thin.

Stacking blocks seems to be a complex process that requires serious skills and experience. If desired, everyone can master this technique, there would be a desire. We hope our information was helpful!

1. Wall laying. The first step is marking the base

Good afternoon, readers of our blog. So, you are moving on to the next step, no less important than building a foundation - laying walls from blocks, or rather, laying the first row of blocks. No matter what material has been chosen for the walls of your home, much of what is presented in this section can be useful to you.

Before proceeding to laying the first row of blocks, it is necessary to mark along the axis of the base (in our case, this is) the location doorways and junctions (junctions) internal walls to the outside.

2. Setting up lighthouse blocks and preparing the surface of the basement (base)

Before laying the first row of (however, like any

other building materials), it is necessary to carefully check the base (plinth) again. In the corners of the base, without using a mortar, we lay one beacon block at a time and “set” them according to the level. Our blocks still have bumps, but for setting the corners we used the MOST SMOOTH blocks. The first block is installed at the highest corner of the future house, while the difference in height between the corners of the house should be no more than 3 cm. When laying subsequent rows, this difference must be eliminated due to the difference in the mortar layer.

With the help of a tape measure or a strong, non-stretching thread (you can use a silk thread), we carefully measure the length, width and be sure !! both diagonals of the base. It is clear that the measurements of length, width and diagonals must match accordingly. If some dimensions do not match, this means that not all angles are equal to 90 degrees.

What to do in this case? It is necessary very carefully, constantly rechecking all the measurements described above, to try to find something by simultaneously “moving” the lighthouse blocks on one side. optimal location, which will correspond to the correct one. In this case, the difference in measurements should not exceed 2 cm. When laying subsequent rows, this difference must be eliminated. If you did everything correctly during the construction of the foundation and the subsequent laying of the basement, you should not have any particular difficulties when placing lighthouse blocks.

If the dimensions match accordingly, then this means that the basement of the house is laid out correctly, each corner is 90 degrees and you can proceed to the first step of laying the walls - the first row.

Setting up four lighthouse blocks is a very time-consuming and responsible job. It is on the correct placement of these blocks that the correctness and evenness of the masonry walls of your future home largely depends.

In addition to the method described above for checking the correct laying of the corners of the future home, you can use a wooden corner.

Masonry of the first row of blocks is made on a waterproofing material capable of providing waterproofing of blocks. cut-off horizontal waterproofing eliminates capillary suction, or, more simply, it is necessary in order to protect the blocks from moisture coming from the ground through the base. As an insulating material, you can use both bitumen-based roll waterproofing materials and waterproofing polymer-cement mortars from dry mixtures or . Today retail chains offer huge selection such products.

We used double folded as a waterproofing material. roofing felt. The ruberoid is laid on a cleaned and leveled base. Roofing felt strips are connected to each other with an overlap of at least 15 cm. The width of the waterproofing material should be slightly larger than the width of the base.

It is possible when laying the first row between blocks and waterproofing material lay the mesh for masonry. The mesh for masonry is metal grid with a cell from 50x50 made of wire with a diameter of 3, 4 or 5 mm. Most often, masonry mesh, by definition, is used to reinforce masonry, including brickwork. In the future, we will tell from gas silicate blocks. To protect against corrosion, the masonry mesh is protected from above and below by a layer of mortar with a thickness of at least 2 mm.

3. Mortar for laying the first row of blocks

Regardless of which mortar you will use when laying block walls - when laying the most important row of your house - the first row, only cement-sand mortar is used!! We have already written.

4. The laying of walls from blocks begins with the laying of lighthouse blocks in the corners

The block must be laid on the plinth in such a way that the walls, taking into account the thickness facing materials for walls and a plinth planned for further finishing, they “hung” over the plinth, or the plinth, taking into account the use of facing materials for the plinth and walls in the future, should not only not protrude beyond the laid walls, but also be flush with them.

It is better if the plinth is, as it were, “drowned” relative to the wall. This requirement must be met in order to rainwater, flowing down the walls, did not fall on the junction between the wall and the plinth, and the plinth remained dry. The optimal protrusion of gas silicate blocks relative to the base is at least 5 cm.

Now we put four corner blocks on the solution. The thickness of the mortar joint should be up to 2 cm, while in the event of an uneven base, the thickness may change somewhat. Once again, we make sure that the blocks are level.

When laying blocks before applying, it is necessary to moisten the blocks with water in the places where the solution is applied. Since blocks of gas silicate absorb moisture very well, when applying the solution to a dry block, the solution dries quickly, which leads to a deterioration in the binding characteristics between the blocks.

Blocks must be installed on the already applied mortar as soon as possible. The installation time of the blocks on the applied solution should not exceed 10 -12 minutes.

5. Masonry of the first row of blocks

When laying the first row of blocks, special care is required, because. the first row is the base row, which will be the foundation for all subsequent rows.

To maintain accuracy when laying walls from blocks, it is necessary to use a mooring cord, which is attached to the corner blocks using ordinary nails. To eliminate sagging of the mooring cord (in case of long distance between blocks), it is necessary to lay one more beacon block. Thus, the laying of each subsequent block will be controlled by a mooring line and level, and adjusted using a rubber mallet or a conventional hammer.

The length of the continuous part of the wall is often not a multiple of the length of the block. In this case, it is necessary to use the so-called "additional" (incomplete), i.e. shortened blocks. The doborny block is very easy to cut out regular saw, having previously marked its two sides - horizontal and vertical.

After the first row is laid out, it is necessary to once again check its evenness in terms of level and, if necessary, remove all irregularities.

Scheme of walls from gas blocks.

Before laying the blocks of the first row, it will be necessary to provide its waterproofing. To do this, lay 1-2 layers of roofing material on the foundation. All blocks from the first row must be laid on a mortar, which consists of sand and cement in a ratio of 1: 3. In this case, the thickness should be no more than 30 mm.

After the laying of the first row is completed, you will need to completely remove all the irregularities with a planer or sanding board. It is necessary to strictly monitor the correct height of the row from the very beginning of laying with the help of a stretched mooring cord, vertical and horizontal levels or laser coordinators.

First row

Scheme of chain ligation of gas blocks.

Maximum attention should be paid to laying the first row. By setting an even horizontal surface the first row of masonry, it is possible to facilitate the laying of all subsequent rows as much as possible.

Between the plinth (or foundation) and aerated concrete, horizontal cut-off waterproofing is required, which prevents capillary suction. For waterproofing it is possible to use rolled bituminous materials or waterproofing special polymer-cement mortars based on dry mixes.

In the event that there is an imperfect foundation surface, the laying of the first row of blocks should be carried out on a leveling layer of mortar, which consists of sand and cement. If the bearing capacity of the block, according to the calculation, will be used by no more than 2/3, it makes sense to make the leveling layer not continuous, but with a gap. This is due to the fact that it will be possible to reduce heat loss through the seam.

When the remaining gap in the first row is less than the length of whole blocks, you will need to make an additional block in place. In the process of installing the additional block in the masonry, care should be taken that its end surfaces are completely smeared with glue. Each block must be controlled by the mooring line and level. Adjustment of the installation should be carried out using a rubber mallet.

Scheme of the jumper device in the masonry from aerated concrete blocks.

It is important to know that after laying the next row of blocks, it is imperative to level the surface with a grater. There should be no level differences between adjacent blocks. If this operation is not performed, the formation of vertical local cracks in the masonry is quite possible in places where stresses are concentrated. The dust that forms must be shaken off with a sweep.

Before laying, the blocks must be cleaned of dirt (ice and snow in winter), dust, and those with chipped edges and corners or broken ones should be set aside. Having subjected them to mechanical processing, later using the simplest tool (saws or hand saw, a planer for chamfering, an angular template for cutting direction) it will be possible to use blocks when laying the walls of the gables or in the inner walls.

Glue making process

Aerated concrete blocks are produced with a geometric accuracy of +/- 1.5-2.0 mm. Laying should be carried out on an adhesive mortar based on a prefabricated dry mix. The dry mixture will consist of cement, sand, plasticizing, water-retaining and hydrophobic additives. The thickness of the seam should be a maximum of 2-5 mm.

Masonry can be carried out on a light mortar. The thickness of the seams in this case will be 8-10 mm. Masonry on a cement-sand mortar may be allowed. In this case, the thickness of horizontal seams should be taken as 10 mm. The thickness of vertical seams (if there is no tongue groove) is taken from 8 to 15 mm. On average it will be 10 mm.

It is worth considering the fact that the use of solutions leads to a decrease in the heat transfer of the wall. During a dry campaign during the production of masonry work, it will be necessary to pre-moisten the blocks.

Scheme for designing jumpers from aerated concrete blocks.

It is recommended to prepare a mortar for laying walls from blocks at the construction site from dry ready mixes, which are delivered from the factory, or from aggregate, binder and additives. The adhesive solution must be prepared according to the instructions printed on the bag. Building mixture- according to the instruction CH 290.

In the container for preparing the solution (preferably a bucket made of plastic), you need to pour the amount of water indicated on the bag with the dry mixture. With constant stirring, the dry mixture is gradually added. After mixing, after 10-15 minutes, it is necessary to re-mix the solution. During the production process, it is necessary to periodically mix the solution in order to maintain its consistency. In the cold season, AEROC -15 degrees Celsius adhesive mixture should be used, which includes antifreeze additives.

Subsequent rows

List of elements that will be needed in order to do the laying of aerated concrete blocks with your own hands:

planer or grinding board;
sand;
cement;
mooring cord;
laser coordinators or vertical and horizontal levels;
rubber mallet;
water;
plastic bucket or something else.

The finished solution (glue) is unloaded into a tub, after which, using a special container, a scoop or trowel is distributed along the length of the wall, while leveling the bed with a notched edge of the trowel. The block is lowered into the solution (adhesive) from above, while horizontal movement of more than 5 mm should be avoided. The solution (glue), which is squeezed out, is removed immediately with a scraper, while its setting is not allowed. The blocks are straightened by tamping with a rubber mallet or by rocking.

The seams must be carefully filled with glue. During the laying process, you will need to follow the rules of dressing. The vertical rows of subsequent rows of masonry must be offset by at least 0.4 block heights (i.e. 8-12 cm).

In order to carry out high-quality masonry work, you should use various fixtures which can make the job easier. One of these devices is the installation of wooden rails-orders at the corners of the future structure. Reiki must be installed vertically so that they clearly indicate the corners of the masonry.

Scheme of masonry from aerated concrete blocks.

It is necessary to put risks on them that correspond to the height of the rows. Between the orders, a mooring cord should be pulled, along which it is planned to lay the next row.

The second and all subsequent rows must be carried out with block dressing. The offset of subsequent rows relative to the previous ones should be at least 8-12 cm. In order to apply glue to the surface of the blocks, you should use a carriage that is made along the width of the masonry, a simple notched trowel that is used in tile work, or a bucket with a serrated edge.

It is important to know what to do with the tongue-and-groove end surface of the blocks. In general, there are the following recommendations: if the walls are supposed to be plastered on both sides, the vertical joint should be dry, without filling it with glue - this can improve the thermal masonry homogeneity. In the event that it is assumed that on either side wet finish will not be, the vertical seam is partially filled in order to exclude blowing. There is one more limitation: when making walls buried in the ground from aerated concrete blocks, when installing a stiffness diaphragm and when the calculation load is more than 70% of the calculation of the bearing capacity of the masonry, the entire vertical seam must be completely filled with glue.

The next block must be installed on the glue and aligned with the mooring cord. Alignment of the block that has been installed is done as described above - by tapping with a mallet. At the time when the next row of masonry is coming to an end, it may be necessary to add an additional (cut from a whole, incomplete) block. Its size should be determined by measuring in place. The additional sawn block must be smeared with glue on both sides and installed in the place that remains for it.

Features of laying in two blocks

In the process of laying walls in two blocks, a flat dressing of vertical joints is used. The depth of such dressing should be at least 100 mm. Conjugation of walls of different directions should be arranged exclusively with an inclined chisel with a dressing depth of at least 200 mm (vertical chisel is not allowed). Internal partitions and walls are built according to the same rules as the external walls. The conjugation of the inner and outer walls is carried out by bandaging the blocks to a depth of at least 200 mm.

The adjunction of partitions to the walls is arranged using flexible ties from steel strips, which are pre-fixed in the appropriate places in the seams of the walls.

If you are building new house, then you definitely want it to turn out to be reliable and solid as a result. At the moment, the most common building materials are gas blocks (it can be gas silicate or foam concrete, as well as ceramic blocks). The main nuances that you need to pay attention to during construction:

1. Marking the corners of the wall box (perimeter).
2. Laying blocks and raising walls.
3. Work with door and window openings (arrangement of jumpers).
4. The device of a monolithic (reinforced) belt.
5. Interior partitions.

For laying the gas block, both cement mortar and “profile” glue for gas blocks can be used. If you intend to work with cement mortar, it must be taken into account that in this case, the formation of the so-called "cold bridges", that is, additional heat losses through the interblock seams, cannot be avoided. The advantages of this particular option are to increase the strength of the entire structure.

When a special glue is used in the work, then you need to leave an “air strip” between the layers - this will allow you to perform additional thermal insulation of the walls.

First, set the block to horizontal plane using a rubber mallet. The most responsible process can be called the setting of four supporting corner blocks - this operation requires both skill and attention. It should be noted that half of the success depends on how these four blocks are installed, including the evenness of future wall structures. Subsequently, you should pull the thread between the support blocks and lay the blocks in a row along this thread with the help of an adhesive solution, carefully lubricating them with each other. If it becomes necessary to cut blocks, then for this purpose a special hacksaw with victorious tips should be used. It should be noted that such a tool can be of two types: with tips “through the tooth” and “for each tooth”. The difference in price in this case can be about fifteen percent, but the saw "for each tooth" is much more convenient to use, and besides, the quality of cutting with such a tool will be higher.

Standard size wall block is 600x300x200, so the length of the building level should be no more than eighty centimeters. In order to check the horizontal plane of the block, it is necessary to put the level in two positions along the diagonal of the block. Alignment of the wall is carried out along a stretched thread. For getting building mix the glue is diluted with ordinary water and mixed with a mixer until it resembles sour cream in consistency. To apply the adhesive, use a 15 cm notched trowel. The solution is applied in the form of two strips along the edge of the block so that a narrow strip without glue remains in the center.

If you use this particular method of application, then you should align the block according to the level - this is much more convenient. In addition, due to air gap between the blocks, the thermal performance of the wall will improve. After all, as you know, the very “bottleneck” through which heat loss occurs is precisely the glue seams. Because the gas silicate block perfectly absorbs moisture, it is advisable to moisten the blocks with water before applying the glue, because if the glue is applied to a dry block, it will dry immediately. Naturally, this will not have the best effect on the strength and bonding of the entire structure, since dry glue will not provide the required strength.

Initially, the block should be aligned in a horizontal plane, after which, with several blows to the end, the block is pressed against the previous block in the row. It should be noted that the blocks crumble quite easily, so do not apply excessive force when hit.

In the process of laying blocks, starting from the second row, it is imperative to carry out the so-called “dressing”, that is, each next row should be shifted at least fifteen or twenty centimeters relative to the previous one. Be sure to check the presence of dressing in those places where the joints of the bearing walls occur.

As for the roofing material, it is necessary for the entire first row around the perimeter of the house. The need to leave a gap is also important - for example, the roofing material should protrude 15-10 centimeters from under the block. Between the sheets of such a substrate, an allowance should also be made - ten centimeters.

Start window openings is at a height of one hundred centimeters (level of the fourth row). Subsequently, the height of the window will be equal to eighty - eighty-five centimeters (taking into account the screed and insulation on the floor). As for the end of the window openings, it will be at the level of the tenth-eleventh row (depending on the height of the ceiling). According to existing aesthetic standards, the distance from the ceiling to the opening should not be more than 35 cm. Regarding doorways, it should be noted that they will end at the level of the ninth row, that is, at a height of 2.25 meters. After the draft floors are filled and the insulation is laid, the height of the openings will be 2.10-2.15 meters. Jumpers are necessarily laid over the openings. This can be done in two ways. The simplest is the installation of a reinforced concrete lintel, manufactured in the factory. However, the specific features of such a design should also be taken into account. So, reinforced concrete has enough high thermal conductivity, which is why in the cold season such a structure will freeze through with all the ensuing consequences. Moreover, it is sometimes difficult to acquire ready product, ideally suited to your geometric dimensions. Moreover, the cost of a factory jumper includes not only the cost of the product itself, but also the cost of its transportation. That's why the best option is considered to be the manufacture of a jumper on their own. This method can even be called less labor-intensive compared to the previous one. You should start by installing spacers for the future product. Spacers can be nailed to the block using regular nails (150 or 120). It will also be necessary to strengthen the monolithic jumper from below, and it must be maintained for at least a month.

Strictly maintaining the level of the previous row of blocks, it is necessary to set the guides. Next, you should prepare the formwork (non-removable) for the future structure - these will be blocks with hollows cut into them. dimensions these hollows are as follows - a width of 20 cm, a height of 15 cm. To prevent the block from "sliding" out of the monolithic jumper, sawing out, you need to form a small extension to the base of the block. When the tray blocks are ready, they should be installed on the spacers, as always, smearing with glue between them. To prevent the formation of chips and cracks in the wall, as well as to prevent the lintel from sagging, you should ensure that the tray block comes on bearing wall at least twenty centimeters.

When the tray is ready, concrete (M200 or higher) is poured into it. The ratio of cement-sand-crushed stone will be 1:1.5:3. At the end of the process, reinforcement should be laid in concrete (2 or 3 pieces, cross section - 10 ... 12 mm). This should be done as low as possible to the base of the block, since it is in this place that the tensile load is maximum. After that, the finished jumper should be kept for about a month, but the laying of blocks can be continued. Naturally, it is impossible to load jumpers with floor slabs.

Monolithic Belt

After the last row of blocks is laid, it is imperative to fill in a monolithic reinforced concrete belt. Based on the minimum block thickness allowed by SNiP, which is 400-500 mm, the belt must have dimensions of at least 200x150 mm. Of course, the belt is not poured over the entire width of the block - thermal insulation is necessarily organized.

To do this, one of the two most acceptable methods is used:

as a heat insulator, you can use the gas silicate block directly,
use styrofoam for thermal insulation.

The high practicality of the first method should be taken into account, since the foam is less durable than gas silicate. In addition, the thermal insulation of the blocks does not require the installation of formwork - the blocks themselves are fixed formwork.

Gas silicate thermal insulation. The blocks are cut in such a way that two types of pieces are obtained - 15x15 and 5x15 cm (belt height - 150 mm). The resulting pieces are laid in the following way - the larger one is laid from the side of the street, and the smaller one - from the side of the room. As a result, a hollow 200x150 mm in size is formed between the blocks. The structure should be left for two to three days for the glue to dry. This is necessary so that the blocks do not burst during the pouring of concrete. Such fixed formwork built on all load-bearing walls without exception. After the glue has dried, it is necessary to start laying the reinforcement around the perimeter of the belt. Two rows of reinforcement with a diameter of 8 ... 12 mm will be quite enough. It is important to carry out all work very quickly, no more than one day, in order to avoid concrete hardening. Otherwise, cracks may appear at the joints.

Subsequently, floor slabs are laid on this belt - the floor is overlapped. Similarly, a monolithic belt is performed under the roof.

Partitions

As for intra-house partitions, as a rule, blocks with a thickness of one hundred to two hundred millimeters are used for their manufacture. The choice of block thickness depends both on the purpose of the premises and on the desired sound and heat insulation performance. For partitions, there is no need to fill in a monolithic belt, however, they must be tied up with load-bearing walls. Basically, reinforcement is used for this in pieces of 20-25 centimeters long, which is driven into a load-bearing wall for half of its length. The place of entry of the reinforcement into the block is planned, because in the future this place will be docking with bearing wall. In order to prevent the block from splitting, a hole is drilled in it slightly larger than the length of the reinforcement, and all joints are smeared with glue in advance. Be sure to use dressing between rows. To perform dressing of partitions and ceilings, often use construction foam. Foaming must be done along the entire width of the wall, passing first one side, and then the other. When the foam dries, its excess can be removed with a regular clerical knife. Since the foam has poor compression and fracture characteristics, the gap between the ceiling and the block should not be more than one or two centimeters. The method of laying partition walls is similar to the method of laying blocks in load-bearing structures. It should be noted that the load-bearing partition is necessarily made of wall blocks, since such a design will be subject to the load of floor slabs.

It should also be noted that by observing the above technologies and rules, you will be reliably insured against all those common mistakes that are widespread among inexperienced homebuilders who are trying to perform any work without the appropriate knowledge.

The starting line gets the most attention. The work is done carefully. The convenience of laying the walls of the house and the quality of the entire finished structure depend on the evenness and horizontality of the laid first blocks.

It can take a whole day for a team of bricklayers to install the first row. And this is considered normal. Here the basis of the future building is formed. The simplicity of the subsequent laying of walls depends on the accuracy of its laying.

Foundation preparation

A feature of aerated concrete is not only maximum lightness, but also high hygroscopicity. Any perceptible increase in humidity levels provokes a loss building material thermal insulation properties, so aerated concrete houses are necessarily built on the basement usually made of concrete or brick.

The main purpose of the plinth is to protect the walls from precipitation, such as snow and rain, as well as from moisture that comes from the ground through capillary suction.

The height of the basement for a house made of aerated concrete is determined based on the depth ground water, average amount and nature of precipitation. It should be above the average snow cover level for the area.

So for the Moscow region, the average snow height reaches a maximum in February and averages 25-35 cm per open areas and 40-45 cm - on protected ones. Fences, neighboring structures and vegetation can act as protection. Based on this, a 40 cm base will be enough.

More the height of the plinth is affected by aesthetic appearance buildings, the number and height of steps, the design of the products. As well as the presence or absence of basements and semi-basements, the location of communications in the underground.

Attention!

Do not forget to perform a cut-off waterproofing with any roll material bituminous. When using a less durable roofing material, I recommend laying it in 2 layers.

The guarantee of high-quality masonry will be the use cut-off waterproofing, which will be in addition to the standard waterproofing of the foundation base.

What to put on the first row?

If the base drop is more than 5 mm, which is quite common, then the usual one will not work. Here you will need to combine the laying of the initial row with leveling the surface for the subsequent laying of blocks.

In this case, the installation of the starting row should be carried out exclusively on correctly prepared, high-quality cement-sand masonry mortars. Since the base of the plinth is not perfectly even, with a tolerance for minor differences and roughness, the use of expensive glue will be an unacceptable luxury for laying on the foundation. In addition, the adhesive is more plastic, it is intended for thin-seam masonry.

It is recommended to use the standard proportion of cement and sand passed through a sieve in the ratio of 1:3 for laying the initial row of blocks, with the addition of water until a mixture of a relatively thick consistency is obtained.

Properly prepared solution will allow not only to get the maximum reliable connection aerated concrete with a base, but also helps to correct all existing irregularities. It is also allowed to use ready-made, factory-made mixtures made on the basis of cement and sand, supplemented with hydrophobic, water-retaining additives and plasticizers.

Solution preparation

The cement-sand mortar should have the most homogeneous consistency, therefore, for its preparation, it is advisable to use a concrete mixer, in which you need pour a bucket of water, pour a bucket of M500 cement and add three buckets of sifted sand.

Manual mixing of the solution is also acceptable.

In the process of kneading, it is required to add water in small portions, which will bring the mixture to the desired consistency. It is recommended to add a water-retaining additive to the solution to prevent rapid absorption of moisture into aerated concrete.

Cement mortars prepared under aerated concrete masonry should be used within a couple of hours of mixing.

Step by step masonry technology

At the first stage, you need check the height and horizontality of the foundation. Differences up to 5 cm are allowed, since with such a thickness the solution does not shrink.

The remaining cases are considered marriage and require repair. Any irregularities that are not too pronounced must be cut off or filled with a cement mixture. Very significant irregularities will require the installation of additional formwork, followed by pouring the surface with a concrete mixture with plasticizers, and further leveling. The height of the leveling layer should be about 30-50 mm. Laying can be carried out after the layer has dried.

At the next stage waterproofing is being installed. The surface is covered roll waterproofing with an overlap of material at the joints.

Completed waterproofing layer, blocks are evenly set in the corners according to the level or level, the lace is stretched in a horizontal position.

Masonry starts from the corners, and the highest point of the foundation serves as a guide. It is at this point that the first block is installed. Then the blocks are placed in other corners. Installation of corner blocks with a groove-ridge connection is carried out with the ridges outward.

After arranging the blocks in the corners, measure the heights again and sign the thickness of the required mortar layer on each corner block with a pencil.

The correct installation of corner aerated concrete blocks can be checked with a building level or an optical level. If necessary, the adjustment of the corner block elements is carried out with a special rubber hammer.

Attention!

Before mounting the blocks on the mortar, once again measure all sides and diagonals. In a rectangular building, opposite sides should be parallel and equal. Adjacent sides must be perpendicular, which is checked by measuring the diagonals.

Install the corner blocks on the mortar, referring to the thickness of the solution written on each block. Set the blocks exactly on the level. Use an optical level to check the height of the corner of the block. In case of mismatch, besiege the block with a mallet, or add mortar.
After mounting the corner blocks, the lace is pulled and the row is filled with gas blocks. By means of a cord, it is possible to facilitate the implementation of strictly horizontal masonry.

Attention!

With a wall length of ten meters or more, a block is laid in the central part to prevent the cord from sagging.

Solutions for the installation of building gas blocks must be applied to the surface of the base with a trowel. Laying the first row of gas silicate blocks is carried out on cement-sand mortars, and all subsequent rows are mounted exclusively on adhesives. Side surfaces in both cases, they are coated with adhesives.

A rubber mallet is used to fit the blocks. The dimensions of the elements, if necessary, are adjusted using . Here you will need a special power tool. In this case, the grouting of the cut is carried out using a grater or planer for aerated concrete.

Before further installation, it is necessary to wait until the mortar has completely hardened, which will prevent the risk of deformation of the starting blocks by the weight of subsequent rows.