It is used for sawing boards, beams and other similar materials. It is manufactured by many manufacturers who provide the equipment with the best performance characteristics. To save money, you can make this unit yourself.

What does it take to have an efficient band press?

A homemade tape machine is made according to ready-made drawings that are in the public domain. To perform this work, you need other things:

• find several car parts;
• select the appropriate rolled section type;
• correctly carry out all the necessary metalwork and turning work;
• carry out some manipulations using a welding machine.

To assemble band press, you can use unnecessary pulleys removed from old agricultural machinery. It is best if their diameter reaches 300 mm. It is recommended to use as guides metal pipes two different diameters. The first should be half an inch in size, and the second a little larger. As a result, one pipe can be put on another and obtain the required gap of 0.5 mm.

Making a base for the machine

The do-it-yourself woodworking machine is installed on a base made of metal corners. They are mounted in such a position that the vertical shelf faces upward. It is necessary to achieve maximum accuracy, which will prevent rapid wear of the impellers.

TO established corners racks are welded in a perpendicular direction from profile pipes(2.5x2.5 mm). Another element is mounted between them. It is a half-inch diameter pipe. It is on this that the claws are installed, designed to secure the logs. These devices must move freely in different directions. To fix the material, you must hit the clamp with a hammer, which will cause it to jam.

Installation of pulleys for the machine

The presented homemade product cannot work without pulleys. When assembling this structural element, you must adhere to the following rules:

• homemade pulleys are sharpened so that when putting on the belt it protrudes a few centimeters;
• the manufactured structure must move, which is ensured by the presence of horizontal pipe guides;
• to increase the reliability of the unit, it is additionally fixed with bolts;
• pulleys are installed under small angle, which will prevent the tape from slipping during operation of the equipment;
• the right pulley is driven, so a spring is attached to it. During operation, it automatically tightens it;
• the left pulley is fixed rigidly, since it is considered the leading one;
• the diameter of the element is chosen arbitrarily, but the larger it is, the longer it takes not to change the saw;
• You can use a regular bicycle frame as a belt;
• For effective work the machine needs to place two pulleys in the same plane as accurately as possible;
• To secure the upper element in a given position, it is best to use a self-aligning type bearing.

Recommendations for installing a roller assembly for a machine

A homemade wood band saw will work correctly and without failure when using hardened rollers. It is best to make the assembly that they are part of yourself. In this case, you can be confident in its reliability, which cannot be said about ready-made mechanism. The design of this unit has the following features:

• The mechanism includes three bearings. Two of them are brand 202, the third is a little larger;
• The shaft and rollers are machined taking into account the use of saws of different widths. If necessary, install a washer between the bearings;
• the shaft fits into two tubes installed one inside the other, with a slight displacement of the axis;
• the roller assembly is installed on homemade machine with the ability to adjust in height or move to the sides.

table top

Types of cutting elements

• wide saw blades provide high cutting accuracy. They are used for longitudinal sawing;
• The thickness of the cutting element must correspond to the thickness of the workpiece. Thick saws can damage thin material;
• when performing figure cutting, the saw must have optimal thickness and width to process the workpiece at different angles.

Machine frame and other additional elements

To obtain a band saw machine, it is necessary to make a frame. For this, use 100 mm. The height of the structure is 1.5 m. To strengthen the frame, gussets are additionally used. The block itself, with which the logs are cut, will move along the channels due to the presence of pin screws. To securely fasten the cutting unit of the machine to its base, bolts with locknuts are used.

Other elements that must be present in the design of cutting equipment include:

• Electrical engine. You can use an old power tool (drills, hand-held power saw) as a drive;
• box for collecting shavings and wood dust. Made from ordinary tree or plywood sheet;
• a casing made of wood or metal that covers the upper pulley. Increases equipment safety.

Setting up the saw

A homemade bandsaw machine driven by a drill or a conventional electric motor will not work effectively unless the saw is adjusted.

This process follows the generally accepted scheme:

• the parallelism of the wheels relative to each other is ensured;
• to prevent displacement in the vertical direction, fluoroplastic washers are used, mounted on the shafts;
• the system is launched in trial mode without installing guides;
• test cutting is carried out without load;
• After completing the adjustment operations, a block is installed to form the direction of movement of the belt.

If the saw of the machine is adjusted correctly, the wheels move smoothly without jerking. Such equipment will delight you with its high productivity and accuracy, which is especially valued among craftsmen.

Making saw wheels

The saw wheels have a diameter of 400 mm. They just need to be made from plywood or MDF. My wheels came out 29 mm thick. I glued them together from three plywood circles. The most critical area here is the central part of the wheels. The blanks were cut out using milling machine. In the center of the circle, I drilled a 0 6 mm hole and installed the center of the milling compass into it. Then I used this hole to combine the blanks and gluing them. I cut out the circles with an allowance of 10 mm for finishing. Shafts 0 25 mm (for purchased bearings) were made for me by a turner. They have a limiter on one side and an M12 internal thread on the other. I used plywood to make the flanges. Before drilling holes for the bearing in them, I drilled a 0 6 mm hole in the center and, aligning it with the center of the wheel, drilled four holes for dowels. The position of the flange on the wheel was marked. The flange consists of two parts. The outer part, 15 mm thick, holds the bearing, and the inner part, 10 mm thick, forms the gap between the wheel and the bearing. The diameter of the hole in the wheel should be slightly larger than the diameter of the shaft. The most critical operation is drilling a hole with a diameter of 52 mm for the bearing in the outer part of the flange. Especially for this, I bought a 0 52 mm hole saw and, after checking, ground it along the outer diameter by 0.3 mm. The bearings were then pressed in using a mallet. Before gluing the flanges to the wheel, I cut out the lower wheel shaft holder - a wooden block with a hole for the shaft, which is attached to the bottom of the frame. It is not advisable to drill a hole directly in the frame: there is a high probability that the drill will lead away. It is easier to rotate the holder to the angle required for correction. I drilled four technological holes in the wheels so that clamps could be inserted into them when gluing. Immediately after gluing the wheel, I put it on the shaft. Thanks to pre-centering of the flanges and drilled holes under the dowels, one of my assembled wheels had practically no runout, but the second one had an uncritical “eight” of up to 3 mm. To adjust the wheel diameter and to form the profile, it was necessary to connect the wheel to the engine. At the first stage, I used a temporary pulley made of plywood - I screwed it to the wheel with self-tapping screws. I machined a pulley for the engine using the engine itself, and then connected the engine and the temporary wheel pulley with a belt. Having fixed the wheel, I screwed on a wooden block as a stop and, using turning tools, turned the wheel to 0.400 mm. The diameter of the wheel on the shaft is difficult to control, so I measured the circumference. It is equal to 1,256 mm. The processed edge of the wheel was given a barrel shape. Thanks to this, the belt does not slide off the wheel, but, on the contrary, self-centers on it. The bevel angle should be 5 degrees on each side.

12. When all the parts were ready, I glued the flanges to the wheel. 13. I used the lower shaft mounting block as a holder. 14.I ground the wheel to the required diameter, giving the edge a barrel shape. The bevel in each direction is approximately 5 degrees. 15.After preliminary assembly of the wheel. 16. Guide complete with support bearing blocks. 17. A guide with an upper support bearing is installed, but so far without “crackers”. Rubber tubes are stretched over the wheels (after final assembly they need to be glued). 18. The work table support is equipped with adjustment in one plane. tilt mechanism

Having made both wheels, I installed a standard drive pulley on one of them (read about a similar solution). Its thickness and shape were adjusted to the belt used, and its diameter was calculated so that the speed of the saw blade was approximately 800 m/min. Now all that remained was to balance the wheels. To do this, I took bearings with an external diameter of 0 22 mm. They were then used as supports for the saw blade. Having fixed the temporary axle horizontally and put bearings on it, I installed the wheel so that it rotates easily, and its heaviest part falls down. Using a Forstner drill, I made small indentations in the lower area of ​​the wheel from the rear side. As a result of such manipulations, I ensured that the wheel stopped rotating in any position. This is where the balancing ends. The wheels were varnished in two layers.

Then I pulled cut inner tubes from 16″ wheels of a children’s bicycle onto the wheels. Rubber protects the wheel surfaces from damage by the canvas, reduces noise and prevents slipping. The balancing, however, had to be repeated.

Attaching wheels to the band saw frame

I installed the top wheel first. I put fluoroplastic washers on the shaft. The wheel was secured with a bolt with a thick washer, screwing it into the end of the shaft. Use the adjusting bolt to set the top wheel parallel to the frame. The lower wheel block was secured to the frame with clamps and the lower wheel was hung. Using a ruler and fluoroplastic washers, I aligned the wheels in one plane. By shifting the lower block, I ensured that the line connecting the centers of the shafts was parallel to the vertical post of the frame. This operation was performed with the saw blade installed as standard. After adjustment, the lower shaft mounting block was fixed. After checking the rotation of the saw manually, I decided to do a test run. Being careful, I turned on the machine. The tests were successful. The tape moved in the middle of the wheels, no vibration or suspicious noise. Having replaced the canvas with the narrowest one, I carried out a repeated test. It was possible to glue the base under the engine and attach it to the frame.
21. A work table with a zero clearance plate and a saw tension mechanism knob are installed. The machine is ready for testing. 22.The work table can be tilted at the desired angle. The support screw for adjusting the position of the work table is visible. 23. Durable frame of the mobile stand. 24. Protective screen for the engine.

Setting the saw blade guides

The smooth end of the saw blade rests on the outer ring of the bearing, and “crackers” hold it on the sides. At first I made “crackers” from fluoroplastic, but they quickly wore out. Therefore (on the advice of the author) I replaced them with wooden ones. As protective casing I used a rectangular duralumin pipe, cutting it with a circular saw. I screwed the casing to the tire with self-tapping screws. The bar must be positioned with high precision, since with a length of 300 mm, even a slight misalignment in relation to the saw blade will be noticeable. I chose a groove to attach the tire to the frame. The markings were made on a stretched wide canvas. Then I clarified the groove marking according to the dimensions of the guide rail. But no matter how hard I tried, when selecting the groove I made a mistake by 0.3 mm, which led to an error at the bottom point of almost 4 mm. Therefore, I cut out a corner from the remainder of the duralumin pipe, widened the groove in the frame to its thickness, and to correct the position, glued several pieces of self-adhesive paper 0.1 mm thick. Having achieved desired result, fixed the corner with self-tapping screws. The latch has two holes. One main one is for maximum tire clamping area, the second is used only for very thick workpieces in order to raise the tire as much as possible.

Making a workbench for a band saw with your own hands

First, I made a support with a table tilt mechanism. Made it from oak wood. The lower block of support bearings is attached to it. I attached a laminated chipboard lining to the rotating mechanism of the table to increase the rigidity of the table. I used a piece of chipboard table top on the table itself. It is quite thick and durable, and its surface is smooth and slippery. The edges were trimmed with beech slats. IN working area I cut a rectangular hole in the table, and then milled a recess for the MDF insert. I installed the insert with the saw turned on: I inserted the insert into the grooves and pushed it all the way, while simultaneously sawing it to the required length. When turning the table at an angle, I either remove the insert altogether or make a new one for a specific angle. I made a crank for the nut of the canvas tension mechanism. I set the tension force by eye - it is almost impossible to tear the fabric. To make it more convenient to position the table perpendicular to the canvas, I made an additional support for the table. A self-tapping screw screwed into the stop allows you to adjust the position of the table. And to prevent sawdust from sticking to the wheels, I installed a trimmed toothbrush to the lower wheel.

Making a saw cabinet

I chose the dimensions of the cabinet based on the dimensions of the saw base, and adjusted the height so that the table was at a level of 1,050 mm from the floor - for me this is just right. The cabinet was made from scraps of tongue-and-groove floorboards 35 mm thick. The frame of the cabinet was assembled on dowels. The corners were reinforced from the inside with metal corners. Side inserts - from laminated chipboard. Back wall- from MDF. In general, everything is from scraps. The top drawer of the cabinet is used to collect sawdust. The cabinet is mounted on wheels with the ability to fix them.

25. The right wall of the lower wheel casing is beveled at the top to simplify the replacement of saw blades. 26. The rear wall of the lower wheel protection is installed at an angle and directs sawdust into the box. 27.The parallel stop is fixed on the work table. Installation of protection. 28.This is what the protection of moving elements looks like. A saw start button and a backlight switch are installed.

The protective covers and elements of the saw body are also guides for removing sawdust. All working elements of the saw are protected by screens. The material for the casings and screens was 8 mm thick MDF and pine boards.

Wood is a material in demand in construction: houses and outbuildings are built from timber, floors are made from boards, and walls are finished with them. For sawing lumber in living conditions Band saws are often used. Factory models of equipment are not available to everyone due to their relatively high cost. But you can save money by making your own band saw. Depending on the size and installed cutting blade with its help it will also be possible to work with various metals and their alloys, stone, synthetic materials, for example, polypropylene.

Home inventors have suggested various options designs of machines with band saws. For self-assembly a sawmill model with vertical arrangement of the cutting blade, consisting of the following main components and parts:

• frames (frame);
• sawing table;
• drive;
• pulleys;
• saws.

These structural elements of the machine and smaller parts with basic dimensions are schematically presented in the drawing below.

Electric motors operating from a 220 V network are often used as drives..At the same time, the more massive the workpieces you plan to cut, the more powerful it is recommended to install the engine. Three-phase motors(designed for 380 V) are also used. But for stationary networks, this option is associated with some additional problems: you will need to adapt the electric motor to a 220 V network by installing phase-shifting and starting capacitors. Instead of electric ones, it is quite possible to use gasoline (diesel) ones. internal combustion engines.

The continuous cutting blade is fixed on pulleys. Sawing of workpieces occurs due to its movement along a closed oval or circular path.

Can do small desktop machine . The jigsaw model is shown in the photo below. Based on it, assembling the device will not cause any problems, even without detailed description the whole process.

Important! In general, the size of the equipment being created depends on the upcoming tasks that are planned to be solved with its help. To dissolve logs into beams or boards, you will need a large-sized unit. For owners of apartments with loggias, only a tabletop mini-machine is suitable.

Preparatory activities

Before starting assembly activities, based on the drawing, you should prepare necessary materials and tools. This will allow you, first of all, to determine whether you have everything you need for the job (you will need to buy what’s missing), and also not to be distracted by little things during the process.

Necessary materials and tools

To make a band saw you will need the following: materials and details:

• boards or sheets of plywood (or chipboard) from which the frame, table, and pulleys will be made;
• sheet steel (for saw);
• channel used to create a support frame, or metal angles, or wooden blocks and slats;
• bearings;
• steel rod - for making pulley axles;
• electric motor;
• self-tapping screws, bolts with nuts and washers;
• polyurethane adhesive;
• rubber from a bicycle inner tube;
• textolite;
• bushings;
• V-belt;
• varnish or paint.

To work you will need these tools:

• screwdriver (with drills);
• hammer;
• wrenches (the size of bolts);
• screwdrivers;
• pliers;
• Sander;
• Bulgarian;
• grinder;
• jigsaw.

Power tools can be easily replaced and manual analogues. But in this case, assembly will require more time and labor. When using metal corners or channels instead of wooden blocks, you will also need welding machine and electrodes. Usage bolted connections creates additional problems with the tight fit of parts.

Making a cutting blade with your own hands is quite difficult. For these purposes, tool steel grades U8 or U10 are needed. The saw must be flexible. Its thickness for relatively soft wood is from 0.2 to 0.4 mm, and for hard wood - from 0.4 to 0.8 mm. The blade length of the assembled version of the machine will be about 1.7 m. You will need to cut the teeth yourself, set them correctly and sharpen them. To solder the tape into a continuous ring (end-to-end), you will need to use gas burner and solder. The connecting seam must be sanded afterwards.

It is much easier and more convenient to purchase a ready-made cutting blade good quality in the store so as not to waste time making it. The width of the products ranges from 18 to 88 mm. In this case, you need to focus on the material that is to be sawed. Manufacturers offer the following types of saws according to this criterion:

• bimetallic, intended for performing metal work ( of stainless steel and relatively strong alloys);
• diamond, with which you can saw marble, quartz, granite and other hard materials;
• carbide allowing processing of high-strength alloys;
• from stripes tool steel used for sawing wood.

The last variety is quite often equipped with machines assembled in domestic conditions. This is due to its affordability and practicality. But if you have to work with hard materials, then it is better to purchase a more durable, wear-resistant and expensive saw to reduce the likelihood of the tape breaking to a minimum.

If planned using a made band saw do figured cut , then you need to select the width of the canvas taking into account the radius of curvature. Some relationships between these quantities are shown in the following photograph.

Advice! For even longitudinal sawing of lumber, wide cutting blades should be used. They allow you to make a more even cut.

When choosing a saw for wood, you also need to consider the pitch of her teeth(distance between their centers). The hardness of the wood that can be sawed depends on this. The following are the most common tooth profiles, their markings and areas of application.

You also need to pay attention to quality of teeth sharpening. Cutting edge should be sharp and even. You should also ask your sales consultant about the possibility of re-sharpening it and how many times this can be done. For your own safety, it is recommended to give preference to higher quality canvases.

Important! For installation on the machine, it is better to choose universal saws suitable for processing wood of different hardnesses. This will make it possible to change such blades much less frequently when replacing the material being processed.

Stages of making a homemade band saw

To make it easier to assemble the machine according to the drawing at home, the whole process can be divided into separate stages:

• assembly of the frame (frame or bed);
• production of pulleys;
• installation of cutting blade;
• checking the functionality of the created machine.

Before the beginning assembly work, you need to decide on the installation location of the band saw being created so that there are no problems with its placement and power supply. For this you may even need a canopy or a special room.

Assembling the frame, tabletop and rod

Assembling a C-shaped frame includes the manufacture of a tabletop with a rod for pulleys and a section with an electric motor. The design details are made according to the dimensions shown in the drawing above. The sequence of actions in this case is as follows:

• the boards are used to make a frame in the shape of a box (cabinet) measuring 42x72x50 cm;
• an electric motor is installed inside;

• a bar is made from a beam measuring at least 8 by 8 cm;
• a support for pulleys made of plywood is attached to it at the top and bottom, placing them at such a distance from each other that it is possible to saw the workpieces with convenience different sizes;

• connect the cabinet to the frame;
• in the lower support under the pulley a hole is made (approximately in the center), into which a sleeve with two bearings is then inserted;
• a tabletop made of plywood 20 mm thick is laid on top (with glued to it working surface textolite and a slot for the cutting blade);
• The sides are sheathed so that later you can easily remove sawdust (waste) and clean the saw.

The hole in the lower support with bearings is necessary to connect the pulleys from the engine and from the cutting belt. They will be fixed on one shaft made of steel rod. To adjust the height of the machine to your own height, make a stand further increasing the stability of the created structure. Using welding, you can make a metal frame

Manufacturing and installation of pulleys

The pulleys are cut out of plywood in the form of circles, which are then glued together to form a part 3 cm thick. In total, three of them are needed: one for the belt drive (with a groove), and two for the belt blade. The latter are made with a convex edge at an angle of 5 to 10 degrees (as in the photo below) so that self-centering of the blade during equipment operation.

A pulley with a belt drive is located inside the cabinet.

Its diameter is selected depending on the speed of the installed engine: it must ensure a saw speed of 30 m/s.

One of the pulleys that sets the saw in motion is installed at the bottom, and the other at the top. A hole is made in the center of the latter. Insert the bearing into the bushing. Using glue and wooden slats, it is fixed in the prepared seat.

The upper pulley is attached movably so that the cutting belt can be tensioned. Protozoa lifting mechanism shown below in the photograph. Its main structural elements are spring with lever, which is fixed in the required positions at different levels with bolts.

The lower pulleys are fixedly fixed on one shaft. A belt is put on the leader (transmits movement to the saw from the engine).

After installing the pulleys, you need to align them so that they are in the same vertical plane. Washers are used for these purposes. The entire setup process is schematically depicted in the photo below.

It should be borne in mind that the larger the diameter of the pulleys that move the cutting blade, the longer it will last and the better the saw will work. For these parts with a diameter of 40 cm, a tape with a thickness of 4-6 mm is suitable.

Installing the cutting blade and guides

The cutting belt is fixed on pulleys. For even sawing of lumber, a homemade machine is equipped with guiding mechanism. It is mounted along the side of the blade without teeth. Due to the guide, the tape will not bend like a beam. The easiest way to make this assembly is from three roller-type bearings: one of them is located on the blunt side of the saw, and the other two are on the sides of it. The detailed design of the mechanism is shown in the photograph below.

Important! The guides should be almost perfectly aligned at the point of fixation to the support. If this is not done, then even a slight deviation will lead to a fairly significant displacement of the tape on the opposite side.

To improve the knot, you can attach limiters from wooden slats instead of bearings, and also mount guides under the tabletop. The result is a mechanism similar to that shown in the photo below.

It is better to place the guides as close as possible to the workpiece being cut; the ideal distance is approximately 4 cm. If parts of different sizes are to be processed, then provisions should be made guide position adjustment mechanism, which will allow you to change their height from the tabletop.

Final finishing, setting up and checking the functionality of the machine

The upper pulley at the end of the machine assembly should be cover with a casing. On the one hand, it will improve appearance created equipment, and on the other hand, it will increase the safety of its maintenance (it will delay the blade when slipping).

The electric motor with pulleys and belt drive also needs to be protected from dust and sawdust with a casing. But first it is connected to the network through a start button located in a convenient place. For personal safety, it would also be useful to supply power to the equipment from a separate differential circuit breaker or install it in an electrical circuit residual current device

After assembly, the vertical band saw needs to be adjusted and tested for functionality. These activities are performed in the following sequence.

1. Tension the belt to the maximum using the upper (driven) pulley.
2. Check that the canvas is located at an angle of 90 degrees to the tabletop.
3. Remove the guides.
4. Perform a test run of the unit and a trial cut, placing virtually no load on the belt. In this case, the pulleys should rotate smoothly, without any jerking.

After checking, the guides are mounted in place - this will allow you to work with the load on the blade. Then the equipment needs to be covered antiseptic composition and varnish. This operation will protect the materials from rotting and extend the life of the band saw.

For ease of sawing workpieces, it is recommended to adapt guide rail or metal corner. This must be done in such a way that you can easily change its position when processing materials of different sizes.

It should be taken into account that distortions of the belt web can lead to serious injury, and not only impede normal operation equipment.

Homemade band saw with correct assembly and configuration will ensure acceptable quality of work and increase their productivity. Its use also allows you to save money: it is more profitable to saw lumber into blanks right size yourself than to buy finished goods. If the premises are heated with wood, then using the unit, preparing them will not be difficult. When working with self-made equipment, you must always follow safety precautions.

Rotation to the drive shaft of the tape machine is transmitted from an electric motor, which is connected to it via a belt drive. The speed of movement of the belt mechanism can be adjusted, thereby changing the processing modes of parts. Tape flat grinding machine can be positioned horizontally or vertically, as well as at a certain angle, which is allowed by some equipment models in this category.

When choosing a belt sanding machine model for processing a particular part, it is important to consider the length of the surface that needs to be sanded. It is much more convenient to process parts on such machines whose surface length is shorter than the length of the abrasive belt and work table. If such conditions are met, the quality of processing will be much higher.

The belt sanding machine can have different design: with movable and fixed work table, with free tape. TO separate category refers to wide-belt equipment, the peculiarity of which is that their work table, which is also a feed element, is made in the shape of a caterpillar. In those equipment models that include a work table, abrasive belt located in horizontal plane, and in equipment with a free belt, in which a desktop is not provided, it can have a different spatial position.

Compulsory constructive element Any belt sanding machine, including a tabletop one, has an exhaust device, which is necessary to remove dust generated in large quantities during the processing process. Both a professional and any homemade grinding machine used in a home workshop or garage are powered by an electric motor.

Principle of operation

The main operating parameters of a belt sanding machine include the feed speed and the force with which the belt is pressed against the workpiece. Parameters such as the degree of grain size of the abrasive belt should be selected depending on the material from which the workpiece is made, as well as the degree of roughness that the surface of the machined product should have.

The characteristics of the material being processed, in particular its hardness, primarily influence the grit size of the abrasive belt to be selected. Processing modes that are directly related to each other are feed speed and tape clamping force. So, if grinding is carried out at high speed, but with insignificant pressing force of the abrasive belt, then some areas of the surface of the part may turn out to be untreated. If, on the contrary, you increase the clamping force and reduce the feed speed, then you may encounter the fact that separate sections burns and blackening of the material may appear on the treated surface.

Another variation of the machine - view from the working surface of the belt

The results of grinding are also influenced by how well the abrasive tape is glued together. To obtain high quality To avoid problems with the belt machine, do not use abrasive belts that are not glued correctly or have torn edges. When putting the tape on the equipment shafts, it should be positioned so that the overlapping end of the seam does not ride up against the surface of the workpiece, but slides along it. Learn more about gluing tape in the video below.

Any, including a manual grinding machine, must provide the ability to adjust the belt tension, which is ensured by moving a movable shaft that is not driven. Belt tension is very important parameter, when choosing which you should be guided by the “golden mean” rule. If the sanding machine belt is pulled too tightly, this can lead to its rupture during operation, and if its tension is too weak, it will cause slippage and, as a result, excessive heating. The main characteristic for determining the degree of tension of the tape is its deflection, which is measured by lightly pressing on its surface in a tense state.

A manual belt grinding machine can be serviced by one operator, who moves the work table with the workpiece and rotates it so as to bring all areas of its surface under the abrasive belt.

How to make a belt sander

Many home craftsmen and professionals are wondering how to make a grinding machine with their own hands. The reason for this question is quite simple: high price serial grinding equipment, which not everyone can pay for if not used regularly. In order to make such equipment, you will need several main components: an electric motor, rollers and a reliable frame. Naturally, drawings of such a device or a photo of it would not be superfluous. Also at the end of the article you can watch videos on assembling a tape machine on your own.

The motor for belt grinding equipment is not difficult to find; it can be removed from an old one. washing machine. You will have to make the frame yourself; for this you can use a sheet of metal with dimensions 500x180x20 mm. One side of the frame should be cut very evenly, since it will be necessary to attach the platform on which the electric motor will be mounted to it. The platform for the electric motor should also be made of a sheet of metal with dimensions 180x160x10 mm. Such a platform must be secured to the frame very securely using several bolts.

Another version of the bed

The efficiency of a belt sanding machine directly depends on the characteristics of the electric motor that is installed on it. If you are planning to make a grinding machine with your own hands, then an electric motor with a power of 2.5–3 kW, developing about 1500 rpm, is quite suitable for you. In order to ensure that when using such an engine sanding belt moved at a speed of 20 m/s, the drums should have a diameter of about 200 mm. What’s convenient is that if you choose an engine with these characteristics, you won’t need to make a gearbox for your grinding machine.

The drive shaft is connected directly to the electric motor shaft, and the second - driven - must rotate freely on an axis, which is installed in bearing units. In order for the abrasive belt to touch the surface of the workpiece more smoothly, the section of the frame on which the driven shaft is installed should be made with a slight bevel.

You can make shafts for a belt grinding machine with minimal financial costs from chipboard. Simply cut square blanks of 200x200 mm in size from such a plate, drill central holes in them and place them on the axle with a package with a total thickness of 240 mm. After this, all you have to do is grind the resulting package and make it into a round shaft with a diameter of about 200 mm.

Drawings and detailed analysis some parts of a machine made of wood.

Wood belt sander (click to enlarge)

Table tilt adjustment mechanism Plate block Belt tensioner

A band saw is a mechanism used for cutting ferrous and non-ferrous metals and wood. This device is cutting machine and is used for cutting material. High-quality consumables allow you to achieve a flawless cut and high precision processing of workpieces.

Why do you need a band saw machine?

Industrial bandsaw machine KRATON

Band saws are used to perform straight and curly cutting metal sheets, profiles, pipes, wood, plastic. Exist like household models for home and industrial for small workshops with automatic start, vertical or horizontal table position. Draw machines allow you to increase labor productivity, achieve acceptable cutting accuracy, adjust the cutting angle and process workpieces in batches on the stream.

Device and principle of operation

The classic design of the machine consists of:

• beds;
• desktop;
• web holder support mechanism;
• workpiece feeding and loading systems;
• control systems;
• drive mechanisms;
• corps.

The workpieces are sawn using a strip blade, which is a closed loop. The blade, supported by two pulleys, makes a continuous circular motion. different types machines allow you to perform work at an angle, the magnitude of which is adjustable. The belt web moves with high speed and creates an even cut.

The cutting speed must be stable in order to maintain the accuracy of cutting the material, so the power of the power plant that puts the machine into operation reaches up to 11 kW.

Homemade machine bed

At self-manufacturing The machine starts with a bed, which can be made of wood or metal. Dimensions are selected so as to be easy to handle desired material local. A well-designed machine can cut wood up to 35 cm thick and metal up to 2-3 cm thick.

Pulleys and supports for them

The main elements of a band saw are pulleys, which are wheels on which the tape cloth. They are attached to a frame or to a bar that is mounted to the table. A belt drive is connected to the bottom circle or the motor is directly connected. To dampen vibrations of the tape, a damper is used, placing it under the tabletop.

table top

The dimensions of the saw table are selected individually, because the small size will save space, and a wider table will make work more convenient. Installed on the end face of the machine base between the pulleys. To allow the saw blade to move freely, a cut is made in the table.

Guides

To ensure that materials are cut smoothly and accurately, a guide mechanism is installed. It is attached to the blade on the side free from teeth. The guides allow the tape not to bend during operation. The simplest option can be made from 3 roller bearings: 2 of them are installed on the sides of the saw blade and 1 on the blunt side.

How to make a band saw machine with your own hands

To make a metal band saw with your own hands, you can take some parts left over from decommissioned machines, buy the missing components and assemblies, or even make them yourself. The cost of the manufactured machine will be half the price of the purchased ato and more. At the same time, the level of performance and accuracy of adjustments of these two devices will not differ.

From the materials we need:

• boards or plywood 15 mm thick;
• carpentry glue PVA;
• hairpin height 150-170 mm (diameter - 5 mm);
• saw blade (length - 1065 mm, for example, for Proxxon MBS 240);
• a drill or screwdriver that will serve as a motor;
• self-tapping screws;
• electrical tape and inner tube from a small wheel;
• clamping wing screws;
• bolts, nuts (including driven ones), washers;
• steel corners 40×40;
• bearings (internal diameter from 5 mm).

To assemble the machine you need to acquire the following tools:

• screwdriver;
• Bulgarian;
• wrench;
• hammer;
• clamps;
• jigsaw or router.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions with photos, drawings and dimensions

Let's start making the device. We follow the algorithm:

1. To create a machine we need a drawing. You can find it on the Internet or use the one below.

2. Before you start assembling the structure, you need to make/find a table or cabinet on which the device will be fixed. Build it yourself this design Can be made of metal or wood. The size of the tabletop must be at least 500 mm x 500 mm. We select the height depending on the height and position of the master when working.

3. It is necessary to cut out the frame, which is the main supporting element, which serves to secure the pulleys, table and tensioner. The bed will be glued together from 4 sawn blanks with the following dimensions:

4. We equip the two central boards with a rectangular recess in which the tension and stabilization element will be located. A groove is cut into the side ones (width - 5-6 mm, length - 50 mm), it should be located in the center of the rectangular cutout as in the photo above.

5. We glue the four parts together with wood glue: first the central parts, then the side ones (with grooves) on top. To connect, we fasten the layers with clamps and wait at least a day until they dry.

We will tension and adjust the saw blade using a wooden rectangle 65 mm high. A minimum of 4 cm must be left to the upper edge of the support. The opening for the beam was cut out in advance. It should be easy to insert it into the opening, but with minimal play.

6. To create a tension mechanism, you need to drill a hole in the top of the block exactly in the center. From one edge of the threaded rod we make through hole(diameter - 2 mm). We will insert a self-tapping screw into it for fixation.

7. To accurately hit the pin, place it in the hole until it stops and wrap the edge with electrical tape. Then we apply it to the outside of the block and put a mark at ⅓ of its length. We drill a hole of 1-2 mm. We insert the pin into the center of the block, and screw in a self-tapping screw on the side, this will help fix the element.

8. We make a cover (see diagram of the tape tension mechanism) for the top of the frame from wood. We drill a hole in it to place the pin and secure it on top with a wing screw.

9. The next stage is pulleys with a diameter of 150 mm. Cut it out smooth circles jigsaw or milling machine from plywood or boards 15 mm thick. The cutter allows you to make smoother circles, but if necessary, they can be processed with sandpaper.

10. To ensure that the saw blade is securely fixed, we glue the rim of the pulleys with electrical tape. We pull the tubes from the small wheels on top.

11. We make holes in the frame for installing pulleys. We make the hole for the bottom exactly under the groove. We make shallow grooves around the hole on both sides and place bearings in them. We place the tension element, drill a hole through the groove to secure the pulleys and insert bearings into it.

12. The pulleys are installed on the same vertical line in the holes made. They are put on the axles and covered with bushings on both sides of the circles.

13. The tilt of the upper pulley can be adjusted using a screw that we will thread into the tensioner. To create threaded connection, place the driven nut at the very bottom of the upper groove on the side where the pulleys are not located.

When a strong tension is established, due to which the pulley will tilt, the latter can be easily aligned with a few turns of the screw.

14. We install and tighten the saw band, connect the screwdriver, clamping the lower pin into the chuck. Then we check whether all elements work.

15. If the mechanism works without delay, install the table. The surface is cut from a board, its size depends on the preferences of the master. We fix the table using corners.

You should not glue the table and frame together, this will prevent changes to the machine and its disassembly.

After assembly, the band saw for wood and metal should be prepared for use. To do this, we check the correct operation of the device, adjust the cutting tape, which should be located at a right angle and be as tight as possible. Even the slightest misalignment can cause problems with the device.