Technology of growing coniferous trees. Propagation and cuttings of conifers at home Reproduction of needles

Five years ago I retired and in the summer I began to live in the country. She took up the propagation of shrubs (spireas and hydrangeas), as well as clematis from cuttings taken from plants of gardening friends. The entire range of these plants in my garden is grown by cuttings. A separate conversation about the rooting of coniferous cuttings. Today I have more than a hundred rooted conifers: thuja western and eastern; junipers ordinary, Cossack, Chinese, horizontal, medium, rocky and scaly; Lawson's cypresses, pea-bearing, obtuse; yews; tueviki.

Junipers and thujas take root quite easily, cypresses and yews are worse, spruces and pines are almost impossible. When to take cuttings.

Cuttings can be taken from spring to late autumn. But best time- this is April-May, when the energy of growth intensifies. Podzimnye cuttings are in a preserved state and begin to take root only in the spring.

What cuttings to take.

It is necessary to choose small branches from the middle part of the plant so that the stem is almost all yellow color, and only its base would be brownish (the beginning of lignification). The best handle is with a heel, i.e. torn off from a branch with a base, but can also be cut. The heel should be shortened so that the end of the handle takes on a rounded shape. From the bottom of the cutting, twigs and needles must be removed to a planting depth of about 3-4 cm. Stimulation of root formation.

I consider a 5% solution of ordinary sugar (about a teaspoon per 100 ml of water) to be the best stimulant for root formation.

For stimulation, you can use any drugs intended for this purpose: heteroauxin, succinic acid, root, humate, NB 101, etc. It is necessary to carefully read the instructions and observe the concentration and exposure time in the stimulator. Violations of these parameters often have a bad effect on the results.

These disadvantages are not present in the sugar solution.

With a 5% sugar solution, everything is very simple. Put the prepared cuttings into the sugar solution as soon as possible. They can be kept there until planting. Say, if you brought cuttings in the afternoon or evening, then it is better to plant in the morning. If it didn’t work out in the morning, it doesn’t matter, they will last until you have time to land them. It is not necessary to rinse from sugar. Where and how to plant.

It is best to plant immediately in the ground, in all kinds of bowls and cups it is very difficult to withstand optimal humidity earth. It must not be too wet or dry. You can plant in a greenhouse or on the street, but the place should be bright and shaded, without direct sunlight.

The earth must be moisture and breathable. It is good to add peat and sand. Do not add ash and other deoxidizers, conifers grow on acidic soil.

Plant the cuttings, firmly compress the earth around the stem and water normally so that the earth sits tightly around the cutting. But keep in mind that this is the only normal watering for the next month, or even 2.

Cutting care.

Those who live in the summer in the country and are ready to jump around the cuttings may not cover them with jars, etc.

It is necessary to spray the cuttings several times a day from a sprayer or simply by hand from a bucket. Wet the earth very moderately, but do not let it dry out.

Whoever is in the country on weekends can choose a more shaded place for planting and cover the cuttings with cut off parts plastic bottles, it is better with a cork so that you can open the corks for ventilation, and then completely open them. Finally remove the jars when the cuttings begin to grow. But this does not mean that they already have roots, often the cuttings begin to move into growth when they have just formed a callus.

Spray in the first couple of weeks constantly, then less often, but it all depends on the weather. In such heat as last summer, they even had to spray from a watering can, otherwise the earth would dry out and they would dry up.

I prefer to plant without jars and bottles, but in this case there is more care work. Rooted plants are hardened and more viable. Greenhouse conditions are under the banks, in our climate this is fraught. I do not advise transplanting them immediately after rooting, the newly formed roots are very fragile and very brittle. Top dressing can be carefully started immediately after planting the cuttings in the form of spraying complex fertilizer. For foliar dressings I use Kemira Lux, the concentration is a slightly pink solution by eye.

I feed already growing plants with Kemira for evergreens in spring.

The number of rooted cuttings depends on many factors. The main ones are landing dates, proper care and experience. I have with spring planting rooted up to 90%. You have to try, it doesn’t always work right away, it’s fun for the stubborn and patient. For beginners, 20-30% is a normal result.

Before winter, plant cuttings as usual. Before the onset of cold weather, the care is the same, only you have to spray less often - there is already enough dampness. For the winter, I mulch the ground in a cutting planting with peat or humus. I don’t do anything else, they are small and winter under the snow quite normally. In the first winter, the main thing is to save the roots - they will get wet if they are planted in a low place. Be sure to mulch the ground. Postpone all transplants from autumn until spring, young seedlings will not have time to cling to the ground, it will sit down over the winter and they will fall out.

I try to plant rooted cuttings to those that have already matured. It seems to me that in the company of brothers they feel better. When it becomes obviously crowded in such a communal apartment, someone has to be evicted. Therefore, transplants are inevitable. Author: Sokolova Natalia, Vsevolozhsk

This article appeared at the request of the WEBSAD forum participants and does not claim to be a manual on cuttings. I just wanted to present my experience of cutting conifers, thanks to which I managed to achieve a fairly high percentage of rooting of cuttings - for example, in some varieties of thuja (moreover, from old trees) up to 85-95%. I’ll also note right away that my method is practically industrial, therefore it is hardly accessible to an ordinary gardener. Don't be scared, nothing complicated - you just need to spend at least 10-15 thousand rubles on equipment for a greenhouse, plus materials for the frame and covering the greenhouse itself. Agree, not everyone will go to such expenses, but for owners of small private nurseries (or for very enthusiastic people) this is quite affordable. In addition, I hope that some elements of the technology will be of interest to everyone involved in cuttings, especially since I will try to reveal all my "secrets".

A bit on the history of the issue. I have a private nursery at a landscape company, and quite far from Moscow and Europe - in the South Urals. When the question arose about the cuttings of conifers, he asked the foresters - he received a negative answer: no, they do not take cuttings. However, knowing their methods (plug and wait), I decided to turn to the literature. I read everything that was available on this issue, did small greenhouse(2 m x 0.7 m) with appropriate equipment (more on the device below). Since I was very impatient, and it was already autumn, then, having put a greenhouse right in the kitchen in the office, I carried out autumn-winter cuttings (fortunately, in our literature this was recognized as possible, and in English (translated) books - in general, the only recommended one) . To my surprise and delight, the cuttings took root. True, the joy was overshadowed by the fact that most of the cuttings died due to illness. Nevertheless, the experience was gained, and having slightly improved the technology, taking into account the mistakes and building another greenhouse, I carried out spring-summer cuttings. This time it worked out even better than expected. I will tell about this.

If we summarize everything that is known about the cuttings of conifers, then we can draw a simple conclusion: you need to create suitable conditions, and the cuttings will not go anywhere - they will take root. But if these conditions are not created, or partially created, then - how lucky (that's why conifers are considered "difficult" for vegetative propagation). The conditions are quite simple - temperature, moisture, light and air. I'll post them right away.

Temperature: at first (the first two weeks) +16 ... +18 C, then +20 ... +23 C. Moisture - the humidity of the air around the cuttings matters, it should be very high (therefore fogging is necessary); substrate moisture is low. Light - preferably at least 12 hours a day, preferably 16 hours a day, and quite intense (as with lighting in greenhouses), but not direct sunlight. Air is around the cuttings, and in the substrate too (so that the bases of the petioles "breathe"). Everything seems to be simple, then it's a matter of technology.

And this is where the problems begin. Let's start with temperature. For spring cuttings, even in a greenhouse standing on the street (not indoors), such a substrate temperature (+16 ... 18 and + 20 ... 23 C) is achieved very simply - due to the greenhouse effect. But! It needs to be constantly maintained. Those. this is not an average daily temperature, but a constant one, even at night (unlike, say, seedling greenhouses). How to achieve this? After all, it is much colder at night, and the greenhouse effect does not work without the sun. In addition, during the day it heats up more than necessary.

I did as recommended in foreign literature - I laid heating wires in the substrate of the greenhouse (device "warm floors"). Actually, this is the most expensive piece of equipment (it costs about 10 thousand rubles), besides, you need to connect electricity. But there is an automatic regulator, and you can forget about frosts and night cooling.

Another problem is how to reduce the temperature (for example, on a sunny day). When my first greenhouse was in a room (in the kitchen at the office), I tried to connect an air conditioner to it. I found an old ad, still Soviet, but cheap and in working order. But it turned out that he cooled the greenhouse, driving cold dry air into it. At the same time, warm wet air, i.e. the fog effect disappeared (which I will write about later). Therefore, the air conditioner had to be abandoned. Since then it was already late fall and winter, I did it easier - I opened the window and cooled outdoor air(fortunately, no one else used this room). The question arose - what to do in the summer? I solved this issue this way - I moved the greenhouse to the basement, in which even in hot summer days the temperature was kept cool. What about lighting, you ask? That's right - I had to do the backlight.

At the same time, I built an outdoor greenhouse (already bigger), which also had "warm floors", but it did not cool in any way (only partially due to fogging). In this greenhouse, the cuttings also took root (albeit somewhat worse), although in summer the temperature rose to +28 C during the day. From which I concluded that a rise in temperature is not as dangerous as a decrease (probably, it is enough to put the greenhouse in partial shade).

Now moisture. Humidity must be constantly high - otherwise the cuttings will dry out, even semi-lignified. In a greenhouse, it is better to use a fogging system. This is a hose with plastic sprayers that spray irrigation water very finely, practically not even watering, but moisturizing. Such foggers are not expensive, they are sold in companies involved in the installation of automatic watering (on lawns, in greenhouses, etc.), and can be easily found on the Internet. The only problem is that water must be supplied under pressure (2.5-3 atm.). Therefore, I connected one greenhouse (in the basement) to the domestic water supply, and for the outdoor greenhouse I had to install a hydraulic accumulator with a pump (in my opinion, it cost about 5 thousand rubles). In general, if you have a pressurized plumbing system, then this is not a problem for you.

Another one useful thing, sold in irrigation companies - a programmable timer with a valve (it costs about 1.5-2 thousand rubles). It runs on batteries (which last for 2-3 years), and turns on the water supply several times a day (for example, 6 times a day for one minute). This is very convenient, because automates fogging. Naturally, if you are cutting in a pot, then you can probably do it easier - cover it with something transparent and spray it manually daily with a manual sprayer.

Light. Here the situation is twofold - on the one hand, the greenhouse must be shaded from direct sunlight, otherwise the cuttings simply "burn out". This can be done with a special green mesh sold in garden stores (of course, if the greenhouse is indoors, then the problem disappears). On the other hand, cuttings still really need light - with its lack, rooting does not go on, the risk of spreading diseases increases (because the cuttings' own defenses decrease). If the greenhouse is outside, then natural light in spring and summer, as my experience has shown, it is quite enough (even you need to shade). If the greenhouse is indoors, then you need lighting. For a basement greenhouse (where there was practically no natural light) with an area of 2 m x 0.7 m, I installed two mercury-fluorescent lamps: 400 W (as on a street lamp post) and 250 W. They were turned on daily at 13-14 hours (by the way, you can set an inexpensive timer). At home, probably, any strong lamp can do, just far enough away so that it does not heat up.

Air. The cuttings are alive and need carbon dioxide and oxygen. Therefore, despite fogging, the greenhouse should be regularly ventilated. I ventilated the greenhouse in the basement daily by simply opening the lid for 20-30 seconds. I did it easier with a street greenhouse - I made its walls not from polycarbonate, but from agril (breathable nonwoven fabric). It turned out that he himself was constantly a little ventilated, and the humidity of the air was maintained by a timer that periodically turned on fogging.

But most importantly, you need air access to the bottom of the cuttings (which is placed in the substrate). Therefore, ordinary soil as a substrate is not suitable - it is too dense and impermeable to air. You need a very air and water permeable substrate and very good drainage. As a substrate, I use calcined sand with a layer of 7-10 cm (in the lower part of which the wires are laid " warm floors"). You can add perlite, vermiculite, peat - it all depends on the possibility of their disinfection. During the first (winter) cuttings, I added vermiculite and peat to the sand, and practically did not disinfect them (only spilled boiling water). As a result, most of the cuttings died due to mold. Maybe the infection was not brought in with peat, but I don’t risk it anymore, especially since everything is cut perfectly in simple sand. For disinfection, I not only ignite the sand, but also spill it and, in general, all the internal parts of the greenhouse a solution of potassium permanganate (an old but very effective remedy).

About drainage. For better air permeability and avoiding stagnation of water in the substrate, in greenhouses I made a raised bottom, which has holes for a water stack. Those. greenhouses are large "boxes" on legs, under the bottoms of which the wind "walks". One greenhouse (which is in the basement) has iron frame, walls and cover made of polycarbonate (transparent plastic). An iron mesh is stretched at the bottom of it, on top of which agrotex (non-woven fabric) is laid so that the sand does not flow away. All excess moisture flows through the agrotex and the mesh into the pallet. Another greenhouse (on the street) is simpler - it is, in fact, a wooden greenhouse, but with a bottom. The bottom is slightly inclined transverse boards, between which there are small gaps (0.5 cm). Agrotex is also placed on the boards.

Is it necessary to arrange a raised bottom in a greenhouse, or is it enough just to pour more sand and gravel from below? I don't know, but it's highly recommended in the scientific literature, so I did it. Perhaps a simple loose substrate will suffice in a pot. By the way, no fertilizers (and even more so humus) do not need to be added to the substrate - rooting is due to the substances accumulated in the wood. Nutrients will be needed later - when transplanting already rooted cuttings.

All this was about creating conditions for the rooting of coniferous cuttings. Most likely, you will be able to find your own ways of regulating these conditions, easier and less expensive. I just needed a result, so I had to invest. :-)

HOW TO CUT?

Now we turn to the cutting technology itself.
First, about the types of cuttings conifers. As you know, arborvitae and junipers are fairly easy to cut. I also cut well different kinds cypress trees. In addition, cuttings decorative forms spruces (ordinary and Canadian), although they took root longer and with a lower percentage.

How to prepare cuttings. In the literature, it is recommended to cut from young plants. I harvested both from young plants of my nursery, and from old ones (25-30 years old) in the arboretum (of course, with the permission and with the assistance of the director of the arboretum). I did not observe a big difference in the percentage of rooting depending on the age of the mother plant. A fairly large difference was between different forms of the same species: for example, in the golden thuja - 90-95%, in the globular thuja - 20-30% with almost the same age of the queen cells (about 30 years).

As many participants of the WEBSAD forum correctly noted, the location of the branches from which the cuttings are taken matters. There is a simple rule here - if the plant is columnar, cone-shaped, etc. (in general, high), then upward directed shoots or axial shoots of the upper part of the plant are needed. If the shape is spherical or creeping, any shoots will do.

The size of the cuttings. Each form and type is different, but not very small, on average from 7 to 15 cm. According to my observations, bigger size cuttings take root better than small ones. The lower part of the cutting should be cleared of needles to be immersed in the substrate by 1.5-2 cm (it is not necessary deeper, if only the cutting does not fall, anyway, the roots are formed, as a rule, at the very edge of the substrate). By the way, it is better if there is a "heel" of older wood at the end of the handle.

Time for cutting cuttings: in the Southern Urals (not in the mountains, but in the Cis-Urals) - the end of April - the beginning of May, i.e. when early spring timeline sowing, say, grain crops. More than early dates(and storage after that in a bag in the refrigerator until disembarkation). Better cuttings carried out in the spring and summer, but it is possible in the winter. At least I have rooted cuttings, cut and planted in a greenhouse at the end of October. True, then I made a mistake - I forgot about photoperiodism. So biologists call the property of plants to feel the length of the day. Simply put, while daylight is decreasing, plants may not take root, so as not to accidentally start growing in the autumn thaw (and then be beaten by winter frosts). You know that there will be no frost in your greenhouse, but the plants do not know and are waiting. Therefore, in my winter, the first roots began to form only in February, when daylight hours began to increase. Solving this problem is very simple - lengthen the short day with backlight (so that the light period in the day is longer than the dark one).

When cutting, the cuttings should be immediately folded into plastic bags (do not forget to include a label). In bags, they can be stored in the refrigerator or in the cellar for several days, but do not tighten too much, because. infections may develop.

After cutting, I arrange the "parsing" of the branches into separate cuttings and immediately place them in a solution of foundationazole, in which the cuttings float for several minutes. Simple dipping is not enough - it is a systemic preparation, and it takes time for it to penetrate into the tissues of the cuttings. Now there are a lot of drugs, but I have been working with foundationazole for a long time (on flower seedlings), so I trust him. If someone has successfully used another drug, share the information.

After the foundation "bath" I tie the cuttings into groups with an elastic band and put them vertically in jars with a growth stimulator solution (heteroauxin) overnight. Here I will make a small digression. In the English (translated) literature, it is recommended to dip the cuttings with their tips into the stimulant powder and plant them. At the same time, it is known that stimulants are absorbed and act better in dissolved form than in dry form. Therefore, I still recommend keeping the cuttings in the solution for 10-12 hours. At the same time, another problem is being solved. Coniferous plants are known to have a lot of resin, which makes rooting difficult. If you soak the cutting for several hours in water (or in solution), the resin will run off. By the way, it is not necessary to completely dip the cuttings into the stimulant solution - it is enough to immerse only their lower part.

During all operations, groups of cuttings must be accompanied by labels (if you are cutting several types or forms, it is easy to confuse, do not rely on memory). At the beginning, when cutting, a simple piece of paper with an inscription in pencil is enough, but when "wet things" start, something more resistant will be needed. Having tried several options, I realized that the simplest and almost eternal is thick foil labels (not the one that is sold for culinary needs, but "construction"). It is easy to cut with scissors, it is easy to write on it. ballpoint pen, laying under it, for example, a book. Of course, the ink on the foil does not stick, but they are not needed - the inscription is well read thanks to the pressed marks. It will not be possible to erase this inscription (even if you try), it does not fade with time (unlike marker inscriptions on plastic labels) and is not afraid of water, chemical solutions, sun, etc. (only a raven thief).

After keeping in the stimulator, the cuttings are planted in the greenhouse substrate. The substrate itself, as I said, is sand, previously disinfected by calcination and potassium permanganate. Do not forget and do not save on disinfection. The point is that at high humidity an air infection is guaranteed to develop and you may lose some or even all of the cuttings. Therefore, periodically monitor the condition of the cuttings, immediately remove the affected ones along with the adjacent substrate. Periodically spray the cuttings with a solution of foundationol.

The cuttings are planted shallow (1.5-2 cm), obliquely, with the front (sunny) side up. The needles are not leaves, they cannot turn in the sun, so be sure to remember (or note) which side of the branch is facing the sun when cutting the cuttings (in thuja, for example, the sunny side often has a more pronounced color).

The distance between the cuttings depends on their size (usually about 5 cm in a row and 7-9 cm between rows). Of course, with enough cuttings, you want to plant them as many (and thicker) as possible, but try not to let the cuttings touch each other and block each other's light.

Further, your cuttings will take root for a long time and stubbornly. What conditions should be in this case, I already mentioned. Avoid fluctuations in temperature and humidity. After planting, you can spray the cuttings with foundation. It is probably unnecessary to remind you that during all operations with cuttings, your hands and equipment must be very clean. Therefore, they can be rinsed from time to time with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

After 2-3-4 months, roots form on the cuttings. You can carefully remove individual cuttings to control rooting, but the resulting root may die off (although others will grow in its place). And I really want to see how he's doing. I found interesting solution. Part of the cuttings was planted not just in the substrate, but in small plastic pots (sold for lettuce lines), which I lowered into the same substrate. Such pots have long side slots and do not impede drainage. I could safely take these pots out of the sand and see if there were any roots.

It is desirable (in our area) to transplant rooted cuttings from a greenhouse from mid-August to mid-September. It's generally best term for transplanting conifers. It is desirable that during transplantation, the root ball of the cuttings does not crumble. But in the case of sand, this is almost impossible, only the “potted” cuttings have a lump.

I transplant rooted cuttings into special plastic containers, which I drop in for overwintering. Naturally, in these containers there should no longer be sand, but soil (but not just soil, but with the addition of peat and fertilizers). I use Bui "fertilizers for coniferous crops", but you can use any, just not to overdo it.

That, in fact, is all. It seems to be a lot written, but in fact it is a very brief summary of the technology. Anyone interested in any specific question - write in the "Discuss the article" section, I will answer in more detail.

Thanks to everyone who heroically overcame the article.

Text: Kostylev D.A. ()
Photo: Mozzhukhina Tatyana Vladimirovna ()
04.2008

To decorate the territory, landscape designers quite often use in their own compositions coniferous trees. They look great both in individual plantings and in complex plantings. Due to the fact that conifers belong to evergreen plants, the decorativeness of the site remains all year round.

Pine varieties
pests
and Disease Reproduction
Usage

Non-specialized information about pine

Pine is a long woody plant that belongs to the coniferous family. She has a wonderful root system, the main root has the shape of a rod and goes deep into the ground for a couple of meters, long lateral growths depart from it. In height, some varieties of pines can be about 75 meters.

The trunk is thick, strong, covered with bark, its color is possible from gray to yellow-red, sometimes peeling off. Branches grow from the main trunk and become woody as they grow.

In young areas, needle needles grow in bunches from 2 to 5. Each year, the tree produces many cones, which ripen in a year and throw out many seeds.

Pine trees are long-lived trees and can grow for more than 350 years.

Thanks to the main root, which goes deep into the soil and can extract in that place nutrients for wood, green beautiful woman grows like fertile soils as well as in sandy and rocky areas. Only a couple of species take root in the city, since main part varieties of pines has an increased sensitivity to air pollution.

Pine varieties

Popular varieties of pine:

Aristotle pine. It's a long time evergreen tree with bushy top, which reaches a height of no more than 15 meters. It is rarely used for decorative purposes to decorate the site, as it requires regular removal of dead needles from the branches. But it looks great in the form of bonsai. It has lovely small buds.
White pine is mostly seen in Japan. It is a long evergreen tree with straight and few branches and a graceful trunk closely covered with long needles. In height, it can be about 20 meters. This variety is distinguished by Bottom part needles are painted in a silvery tone. Cones are medium in size, ovoid.
White pine. This variety is widely distributed in virtually the entire territory of Eurasia. Whitebark pine forms a low long tree up to 10 meters with a wide, dense and spreading crown up to 7 meters in diameter. It is unpretentious to the soil and the place of growth and perfectly reacts to air pollution and smoke. Based on this, it is quite often possible to meet it in urban and park gardens.
Mountain pine grows in the form of a tree; in cultural and ornamental plantations, it is used to form a multi-stemmed bush. It is unpretentious to the ground, grows well on the Crimean slopes, keeping them from collapses. Quite often used in ornamental plantings. On an industrial scale, it is used in the woodworking industry.

Care

When choosing a pine planting site, there are a couple of points to consider. This tree is drought-resistant and does not tolerate waterlogging of the earth well. Based on this, it should be planted on well-lit soils with good drainage capacity without groundwater flow.

Pine is not demanding on the soil composition, but it is necessary that there be a sufficient amount of sand or clay. Before planting, it is recommended to check the soil and, if necessary, add the right amount when digging.

When preparing a hole, it is possible to lay drainage in the form of pebbles or expanded clay on the bottom, and mix soddy soil with clay or sand in proportions of 2: 1.

For the most part, all mature pine specimens tolerate winter and frost very well. But young trees with gentle needles are recommended to be insulated for the cold season. To do this, it is possible to use spruce branches or other ergonomic materials. So that diseases do not appear in the ground and on trees, it is recommended to systematically remove fallen needles under the trees.

This process can be carried out 2 times a year or as needed.

reproduction

Pine is propagated by seeds, cuttings and grafting. For the first method, you need to pick up the mature cone and reach out from it for the grain. This can be done by putting it in paper bag that for its part placed in a warm place.

Shake the container with the contents occasionally. When heated, all the petals of the cone open, and the seeds easily come out of the sinuses.

Before planting, the seeds are treated with stimulants to increase the percentage of germination. The process is carried out in autumn period. They are sown in wet sand to a shallow depth, the container is taken out to a cool room.

Temperature environment maintained within 1-5 degrees. This may be a basement or any second cool room.

In the spring, the containers are brought into a warm room, and the earth is sifted, extracting seeds.

They are again sown in prepared loose and light soil, deepening each seed by 2 cm. A greenhouse is made over the crops using glass or film, and the entire container is placed in a bright and warm room. The substrate must be invariably wet, for this it is sometimes necessary to water it with a spray bottle with soft water at a temperature external environment. At the time when shoots appear, the greenhouse can be removed. So that the sprouts do not get sick, it is recommended to treat them with a fungicide solution.

Throughout the season, sprouts are being cared for, it is possible to plant young growth only by autumn, and insulate them with spruce branches for the winter.

When cuttings, all indicators of the mother plant are preserved.

This is one of the most ergonomic ways of propagating conifers, in which it is possible to take a lot of source material from one tree. But pine propagation by cuttings is difficult, a small percentage takes root, and with improper care, it is possible to lose all the seedlings.

Pine cuttings:

Cuttings are carried out in the spring and to obtain the source material choose young tree grown not in wild environment. Young annual branches are selected, which grow upwards. The cutting is taken along with the part of the tree to which it is attached, the so-called heel.
In order for all the resins to come out of the wood, it is recommended to hold the cuttings for about 3 hours in water, after which they should be treated with disinfectants. To enhance root growth, you need to hold the branches in a stimulating solution for about 12 hours.
A container with a pre-prepared substrate and drainage at the bottom is pre-prepared. The earth should be light and loose; for this, peat is mixed with soddy soil and sand in equal proportions.
The cuttings are deepened by 4-5 cm, placing them at a distance of 10 cm from each other.
At the end of planting, you need to organize a greenhouse and add bottom heating. And if for the most part there are no troubles with the first one, then it is quite difficult to organize the correct heating at home.
Gardeners advise placing containers in boxes with semi-rotten compost, manure, or simple autumn pages. During decomposition, enough temperature is released so that the cuttings acquire heat.
The cuttings are placed in a lit place, it is possible to root on the street in deliberately prepared beds, for this the compost is laid out under drainage.
At the end of planting, a greenhouse is built.

The rooting period of the pine is long, therefore, seedlings should not be touched in the initial year after planting. A good root aggregate will not grow until the end of next autumn, provided that the cuttings were planted in the spring.

Diseases and pests

Of the diseases of pines in ornamental plantings, blister rust or seryanka is much more often seen. This can be seen from yellow bloom at the ends of the needles. Such trees are not treated, they are removed from the site and destroyed.

In order to prevent the disease, it is necessary for preventive purposes to systematically treat trees with preparations containing copper in the composition.

The most popular pests that can attack a tree are aphids and caterpillars. For the most part, they settle on the edges of young shoots and damage the buds and needles. They can be removed with special insecticides by treating all plants and trees that grow nearby.

Usage

Pine is used in many industries. Its wood has a soft structure, which makes it easy to process and prepare carved decorations for the home, furniture and build houses from it. In addition, this tree is quite often used landscape designers to decorate the area near the house or to make an alpine slide.

Many coniferous trees have medicinal properties. Folk recipes quite often include young shoots or pine cones. They make tinctures, medicines and lotions.

Propagation and rooting of coniferous plants by cuttings depends on the species and genus of the plant. So, for example, varieties such as arborvitae, juniper, yews, cypresses get along well. Fir takes root much worse, as well. If we talk about pines and larches, then their strengthening with the help of cuttings is incredibly difficult, rarely anyone can achieve even minimal results. It is important to correctly approach the choice of the cuttings themselves. It is best to take green young shoots, making sure that the cutting belongs to an even and dense plant, healthy.

If you stop at a bad bush, your newly-made "sapling" will be exactly the same. It is also not recommended to take side shoots, since the future plant may begin to bend during growth, which means it will not have a beautiful even shape. And it will not even lead to a positive result. It should be remembered that there are several rules for planting cuttings that you should also be aware of. By following them, you will do your job perfectly.

How to cut coniferous plants at home?

If you want to achieve an effect, take cuttings of juniper, arborvitae or cypress. From the main branch or from even side shoots, we tear off the stalk with a “heel” (a piece of wood with bark). If there are coniferous needles available, they must be cut with a sharply sharpened knife, and the “heel” itself should not be too long either. After you have prepared 5-7 cuttings, we collect them in a bouquet, carefully bandage them so that they do not fall apart, and soak for 12 hours in a solution such as Appin.

For achievement maximum effect you need to take a few drops per 100 ml of water. When the cuttings spend the right time in the solution, it is necessary to powder them in a root stimulator. The most practical and reliable is considered Kornevin. After that, we fill the landing container with sand, poured with a solution of potassium permanganate, which will help rid it of possible bacteria and pests. We make holes in the sand using wooden pegs for this - they need to be set at an angle of 45-50 degrees.

The cuttings should be planted at a distance of about 5 cm from each other, we squeeze them with sand so that there are no holes and voids, and then we cover the container plastic bag or transparent cap. You need to keep such a box with young seedlings in dark place, alternately moisturizing and airing it. Literally in a year, the plant will become stronger, which means that it can already be planted in the ground.

Growing conifers from cuttings in the ground

When preparing the beds for planting, you need to remember that the ground level should be lowered by 15 cm from the edges of the formwork. This is necessary to maintain normal humidity and temperature for the development and growth of cuttings. We also carefully break off a small shoot from the “parent”, which forms the “heel”. With a sharp knife, cut off the tip of the wood on it. During these works, a wound is obtained that stimulates the root formation of cuttings in the future.. That is why it must be moistened with a growth regulator (1% solution of indolylbutyric acid).

At the bottom, remove all the leaves using a knife. But touching the growth point at the very top is undesirable. Next, prepare a place for planting seedlings. To do this, we take a wooden peg and stick it into the ground to a depth of 3 cm. We strongly compact the earth near the stem. The next cuttings should be planted at a distance of about five centimeters. We water the bed itself with a fungicide solution and cover it with a film. Our plant should develop in this way for about one year, and in winter, in order to avoid freezing, it must be covered with mats or wooden shields.

Propagation of coniferous plants by cuttings and subsequent care

IN summer time years, seedlings, being under the film, are subjected to solar "attack", which can lead to burns on the plant. For protection, you can use a solution of lime for covering or a net stretched over small shrubs. Do not forget to also water the beds, making sure that the soil does not dry out. In order for reproduction to be successful, you can transplant seedlings either into pots or directly into the ground in a designated place in the garden.

You can plant them in a greenhouse, but you need to constantly ventilate it, maintaining a normal level of humidity.

Summer residents use a watering can or sprayers to wet the cuttings. It is necessary to remove a film or other shelter at the moment when growths begin to appear in the cuttings. However, this does not mean that they can have roots, often seedlings move to growth only when callus forms in the cuttings. After that, we also carry out frequent spraying. Otherwise, the plant will simply burn out under the sun. The main thing is to make sure that your cuttings are not brittle and weak, it is important to root them in the ground - only then they can develop normally.

Now you are familiar with how to propagate coniferous cuttings which means you can start working now. It is only important to find powerful cuttings from a healthy plant, then their development will be fast, and the conifers themselves will have lush crown and strong root system.

To decorate the territory, landscape designers often use coniferous trees in their compositions. They look great both in individual plantings and in complex plantings. Due to the fact that conifers are evergreens, the decorative effect of the site remains all year round.

Pine trees are long-lived trees and can grow for more than 350 years.

Thanks to the main root, which goes deep into the ground and can get nutrients for the tree there, the green beauty grows both on fertile lands and on sandy and rocky areas. Only a few species take root in the city, since the main part of the pine varieties has an increased sensitivity to air pollution.

Popular varieties of pine:

Aristotle pine. This is a perennial evergreen tree with a bushy upper part, which reaches a height of no more than 15 meters. It is rarely used for decorative purposes to decorate the site, as it requires regular removal of dead needles from the branches. But it looks great in the form of bonsai. It has beautiful small buds.
White pine is mainly found in Japan. This is a perennial evergreen tree with a straight and graceful trunk and a few branches densely covered with long needles. In height, it can reach 20 meters. This variety is distinguished by the fact that the lower part of the needles is painted in a silvery tone. Cones are medium in size, ovoid.
White pine. This variety is widely distributed throughout almost the entire territory of Eurasia. Whitebark pine forms a low perennial tree up to 10 meters with a wide, dense and spreading crown up to 7 meters in diameter. It is unpretentious to the place of growth and soil and responds well to smoke and air pollution. Therefore, it can often be found in parks and city gardens.
Mountain pine grows in the form of a tree; in cultural and ornamental plantations, it is used to form a multi-stemmed bush. It is unpretentious to the soil, grows well on the Crimean slopes, keeping them from collapses. Often used in ornamental plantings. On an industrial scale, it is used in the woodworking industry.

When choosing a pine planting site, there are several points to consider. This tree is drought-resistant and does not tolerate waterlogging of the soil. Therefore, it must be planted on well-lit lands with good drainage system without groundwater flow.

Pine is not demanding on the soil composition, but it is desirable that there is a sufficient amount of sand or clay. Before planting, it is recommended to check the ground and, if necessary, add the required amount when digging.

When preparing the hole, you can lay drainage on the bottom in the form of pebbles or expanded clay, and sod land mix with clay or sand in proportions 2:1.

Basically, all adult specimens of pines tolerate winter and frost well. But young trees with delicate needles are recommended to be insulated for the cold season. To do this, you can use spruce or other comfortable materials. To prevent diseases in the soil and on trees, it is recommended to regularly remove fallen needles under the trees. This process can be carried out 2 times a year or as needed.

Pine reproduces with the help of seeds, grafting and. For the first method, you need to take a mature cone and get the grains out of it. This can be done by placing it in a paper bag, which in turn is placed in a warm place. Shake the container with the contents periodically. When heated, all the petals of the cone open, and the seeds easily come out of the sinuses.

Before planting, they are treated with stimulants to increase the percentage of germination. The process is carried out in the autumn. They are sown in wet sand to a shallow depth, the container is taken out to a cool room. The air temperature is maintained within 1-5 degrees of heat. It can be a basement or any other cool room.

In the spring, the containers are brought into a warm room, and the soil is sifted, taking out the seeds.

They are sown again in prepared loose and light soil, deepening each seed by 2 cm. A greenhouse is made over the crops using glass or film, and the entire container is placed in a bright and warm room. The substrate must be constantly wet, for this it is necessary to periodically water it with a spray bottle with soft water at ambient temperature. When shoots appear, the greenhouse can be removed. So that the sprouts do not get sick, it is recommended to treat them with a fungicide solution. Throughout the season, sprouts are being taken care of, young growth can be planted only by autumn, and for the winter they can be insulated with spruce branches.

When cuttings, all the signs of the mother plant are preserved.

This is one of the most convenient ways reproduction of coniferous plants, in which a large amount of source material can be taken from one tree. But propagation by cuttings is difficult, a small percentage takes root, and with improper care, you can lose all the seedlings.

Pine cuttings:

carried out in the spring and to obtain the source material, a young tree grown not in the wild is chosen. Young annual branches are selected that grow upwards. The cutting is taken along with the part of the tree to which it is attached, the so-called heel.
In order for all the resins to come out of the wood, it is recommended to hold the cuttings for about 3 hours in water, and then treat them with disinfectants. To enhance root growth, it is necessary to hold the branches in a stimulating solution for about 12 hours.
A container with a pre-prepared substrate and drainage at the bottom is pre-prepared. The soil should be light and loose; for this, peat is mixed with sand and soddy soil in equal proportions.
The cuttings are deepened by 4-5 cm, placing them at a distance of 10 cm from each other.
After landing, it is necessary to organize and add bottom heating. And if there are basically no problems with the first, then it is quite difficult to organize proper heating at home.
Gardeners recommend placing containers in boxes with semi-rotted compost, manure or ordinary autumn leaves. The decomposition process releases enough heat to keep the cuttings warm.
The cuttings are placed in a lighted place, they can be rooted on the street in specially prepared beds, for this the compost is laid out under drainage.
After planting, a greenhouse is built.

The rooting period of pine is long, so do not touch the seedlings in the first year after planting. Good root system will grow only by the end of next autumn, provided that the cuttings were planted in the spring.

Of the diseases of pines in decorative plantings, blister rust or seryanka is most often found. This can be seen by the yellow coating at the ends of the needles. Such trees are not treated, they are removed from the site and destroyed.

To prevent the disease, it is necessary for preventive purposes to regularly treat trees with preparations containing copper in the composition.

The most common pests that can attack a tree are aphids and caterpillars. They mainly settle on the edges of young shoots and damage the buds and needles. They can be removed with special insecticides by treating all trees and plants that grow nearby.