Proper cultivation of watermelons. Growing watermelons in open ground - from seed to ripe berry! Growing through seedlings

The fruits of watermelon are known and loved by everyone, they remind many of the “taste of summer”, so some summer residents try to grow this crop on their own summer cottage. The watermelon plant is an annual and belongs to the Cucurbitaceae family, the genus Watermelon. Africa is considered the birthplace of this famous culture. The first mentions of the fruits of this plant are found in the chronicles of the ancient Egyptians and Romans. Various sweets were prepared from it, including honey drinks. In addition, watermelons, given their diuretic properties, were also used for medicinal purposes to naturally cleanse the body. Today, this crop is grown on other continents. The plant does best in warm climates with long summers and short winters. Next, we’ll tell you in more detail about how to properly plant watermelons in your summer cottage.

The characteristics of the culture are as follows:

  • The stems of the plant reach a length of 4 m. They have a climbing structure. Regardless of the fact that the fruits of the crop are quite massive, the stems grow very thin.
  • The leaves of the crop are ovoid in shape and pubescent along the edges. Length reaches 10-20 cm, width 6-17 cm.
  • The plant blooms in summer period. The flowers are predominantly White color. The bracts grow in a boat shape.
  • The fruits of the crop have many seeds. The pulp is juicy and soft, when ripe it is red or pink color. The fruits taste sweet.

Watermelon propagation

Cultivation is carried out in several ways:

  • Using seeds.
  • From seedlings.

Planting watermelon seeds

Let's take a closer look at how to plant watermelon seeds. If the crop is planned to be grown in regions with a warm climate, then the planting material can be immersed immediately into the soil without prior preparation.

The procedure for planting watermelon seeds is as follows:

  1. It is recommended to sow planting material only when the soil in the area has been warmed by sunlight to a temperature of 13 degrees. To do this, the seeds are kept in a container with warm water until the sprouts hatch.
  2. In the area chosen for planting the crop, planting holes are made 10 cm deep. The holes are located at a distance of 100 cm from each other.
  3. Fertilizers are placed in the planting hole (humus with the addition of 1 tablespoon of ash and 1 teaspoon of ammophosphate).
  4. Next, the seeds are placed in the hole and sprinkled with soil on top. The first sprouts should appear within 10-14 days.
  5. Hatched sprouts should be thinned out (weak shoots removed).

If planting a crop is carried out in regions with a cold climate, then it is better to wait until the end of May or the beginning of June to sow seeds.

How to plant watermelons using the seedling method

The procedure for planting watermelon in seedlings is as follows:

  1. First of all, the soil should be prepared for planting. To do this, turf soil, peat, and fine-grained sand are added to it.
  2. Then the soil needs to be fertilized. To do this, a mixture of superphosphate, potassium sulfate, ammonium nitrate and dolomite flour is added.
  3. At the end of spring, planting material is planted in special containers filled with soil. The containers must be of sufficient depth, otherwise the seedlings in them will not feel “comfortable”. Containers are stored in a warm place at a temperature of 28-30 degrees.
  4. During storage, seedlings in containers should be watered. Just make sure that moisture does not get on the leaves of the seedlings.
  5. If necessary, additional lighting should be provided for seedlings if sunlight won't be enough.
  6. Seedlings should be prepared 2 weeks before planting watermelons in the ground. To do this, containers with seedlings are taken out to the balcony every day for one to two hours. Every day, when hardening seedlings, 1 hour should be added to the time they remain on the balcony.

Watermelon: planting scheme in open ground

  • After the seedlings have become stronger, they are planted in open ground. To do this, you need to choose the right site. The soil should be well heated and the area should receive sunlight. In addition, it should be protected from wind and drafts.
  • Watermelon seedlings germinate well in the area where onions, cabbage, alfalfa, and legumes were previously planted. You should not plant crops where tomatoes, potatoes, bell pepper, eggplants.
  • Next, prepare the soil for planting. The plant feels best on sandy and sandy loam soils. In addition, fertilizing should be applied to the selected area. Manure, superphosphates, and potash fertilizers are suitable for this. If the soil is heavy, it should be lightened with fine-grained sand.

The procedure for planting watermelons in open ground:

  1. In the selected area for planting, holes are dug at a distance of 100-130 cm from each other. The gap between the rows of the crop should be 150-200 cm. The sprouts are planted in a checkerboard pattern.
  2. The seedlings are buried in planting holes and sprinkled with soil. A shoot with leaves should remain on top of the soil cover.
  3. The soil near the seedling is sprinkled with sand. This will be an excellent prevention of a crop disease such as root rot.
  4. Next, the soil on the site is watered. The same technology is used to plant watermelon seedlings.

Planting watermelon in a greenhouse

The procedure for planting watermelons in a greenhouse is as follows:

  1. Initially, watermelon seeds are planted in containers with soil. They remain in this form at home until the first sprouts hatch.
  2. The beds are being prepared for further landing culture. For this they remove upper layer soil and fill the resulting trench with humus and nitrogen fertilizers. A layer of fertilizer is sprinkled with soil on top.
  3. Next, the seedlings are transplanted into beds in the greenhouse. The greenhouse must be covered with a double film coating. Planting takes place at the end of April.
  4. To plant sprouts, dig small holes, the depth of which does not exceed 10-11 cm. The holes are located at a distance of 70-100 cm from each other.
  5. A trellis is installed near each hole, to which, as the crop grows, the regrown shoots will be tied.
  6. In order to improve the fertility of the crop, several bees should be launched in the greenhouse to further pollinate the emerging flowers on the shoots.
  7. Sprouting shoots should be thinned out (sick and weak parts should be cut off from the seedling).
  8. Fertilizers should be added as the crop grows. Organic fertilizers are suitable for this, for example, mullein solution, liquid chicken droppings.
  9. As the crop grows, regularly ventilate the greenhouse.

Watermelon care

The procedure for caring for watermelon is as follows:

  • Do not forget to promptly loosen the soil in the area where the watermelons are planted.
  • Remove weeds from the area.
  • The sprouts that appear should be thinned out. To do this, weak and diseased shoots are removed from the seedlings.
  • If the seedlings have sprouted too close to each other, they can be transplanted to another area.
  • Leave no more than 5-7 fruits on one bush of the crop. Choose those that in your opinion have a healthier appearance, the rest should be trimmed.

  • In order to avoid rotting of the fruits, place a piece of roofing felt or foil under those fruits that are located on the ground itself.
  • Water the crop in a timely manner once every 7 days. For 1 sq.m. the plot will require about 3 liters of water. The liquid should be poured not only under the root of the crop, but also between the rows.
  • Feed the plant regularly. The first fertilizing is carried out 14 days after planting the crop. For this, ammonium nitrate, chicken droppings or mullein are used. The second time fertilizer is added during fruit set. In this case, superphosphates and ammonium nitrate are suitable.

Diseases and pests of watermelon

Types of diseases and pests

Watermelon, in principle, is considered a rather unpretentious plant, and if the soil and planting material are properly treated, it is practically not susceptible to diseases. However, if mistakes were made during sowing and care, problems may arise. Most often, melons in general, and watermelon in particular, suffer from the following diseases:

  • Powdery mildew. The causative agent of this disease is a fungus. The cause of its appearance is considered to be contaminated soil or improper watering of the crop. Naturally, in melon fields, watering of plants is natural and depends on weather conditions, so in rainy and sunny summers the risk of powdery mildew is quite high. The disease can be recognized by plaque gray-white on the leaves of the plant. The areas of leaves under the coating completely die off and do not perform their main function. If the plant does not die, then its fruits become deformed, defective and tasteless. They often rot before they are fully ripe.
  • Peronosporosis or false powdery mildew. Unlike the first disease, it primarily affects old leaves. Appears on their surface gray plaque and yellow spots. After the old leaves die, the disease spreads to the young ones, leading to the death of the entire plant. The fruits degrade very quickly and take on an irregular shape.
  • Anthracnose or copperhead. One of many fungal diseases. It is characterized by the appearance on the surface of the leaves of the plant of pink pads with a yellowish tint. At high humidity air, these pads become covered with a pink coating. The development of the disease leads to drying out of the plant.
  • Olive spot. It can be distinguished by its irregularly shaped spots. They cover the stems and leaves of the plant. In this case, the latter become corrugated. Small cankers appear on the plant stems olive color, leading to the death of the ovaries, which dry out and fall off.
  • Angular spotting or bacteriosis. The cause of plant infection is a fungus that is carried by insects. It is characterized by the appearance of oily spots on leaves and stems. In places where they are localized, the leaf dries and collapses. The fruit does not ripen, its shell becomes soft and deformed, and often rots.

  • Rot. There are surface rot (white, gray, black) and root rot. If the first types of disease damage the surface areas of the plant (leaves and stems), then the root disease is localized in the root system. The cause of the disease is a fungus.
  • Cucumber mosaic. An incurable disease that affects the leaves and stems of the plant. A light green pattern with a mosaic pattern appears on them, which swells over time and forms bumps. The plant quickly degrades and dries out.

In addition to diseases, insects can harm watermelon. The main problems are caused by various types of aphids (especially melon aphids), wireworms, and cutworms. Let's tell you in more detail:

Pests and diseases of watermelons are controlled by spraying plants and planting material with various medicines. Various fungicides are used to prevent diseases:

  • Fundazol.
  • Bordeaux mixture.
  • Decis.
  • Speed

Each drug is aimed at treating a specific disease, so it is better to carefully read the instructions before use. In addition to treating diseases, you can focus your efforts on preventing them:

  • Maintaining crop rotation.
  • Carrying out soil mulching and other agrotechnical measures to improve its condition.
  • Compliance with plant care rules.

To control pests, various methods are used, which depend on the type of insect:

  • Aphid. To destroy this pest, the plant is sprayed aqueous solution ash or tobacco dust. After spraying is completed, the soil under the plant is loosened, thereby killing insects that have fallen from the leaves and stems.
  • Wireworms are collected by luring them out of hiding using sweet plant residues or cake. To do this, the bait is thrown into a 30-50 cm depression in the row spacing and covered with a small lid. After a few days, the pests that appeared there are collected and destroyed. They fight armyworms in the same way.

Watermelon varieties

Currently, there are a large number of varieties of this berry. Culture is divided into two types:

  1. Watermelon is woolly. This plant is found only in cultivated form. This is exactly the variety that hits store shelves. All varieties of woolly watermelon are bred by breeders.
  2. African melon tsamma. A wild variety of watermelon. Found only in a number of African countries.

All cultivated varieties of watermelon are divided into several groups:

  • Early ripening.
  • Mid-season.
  • Late.

The choice of one group or another depends on the planting zone and climatic conditions.

Early ripening (early) species include the following varieties:

  • Victoria - the variety is distinguished by a round-shaped fruit weighing up to 10 kg. Ripens in 60 days.
  • Skorik is a variety with small fruits weighing up to 4 kg. It has very tasty pulp, but at the same time a rather thick skin.
  • Ogonyok is a variety bred by Soviet breeders. It is distinguished by rather small fruits, the weight of which rarely exceeds 2 kg, as well as quite tasty pulp with small seeds.
  • Also among early varieties known: jenny, stabolite, dolby.

Mid-season varieties:

  • Couch potato. A variety whose ripening time ranges from 75 to 90 days. It is distinguished by medium-sized fruits (just over 5 kg) and pleasant-tasting pinkish flesh.
  • Ataman. A variety with large fruits, weighing up to 10 kg or more. Ripens in 66 to 88 days and has red flesh. medium density with a pleasant taste.
  • Top gun. It is also a fairly large variety, like Ataman. Ripening time up to 75 days. It has a pleasant red pulp with fairly small seeds.
  • Also known are the following varieties: dumara and antei.

The group of late types of watermelon is represented by the following varieties:

  • Spring. A variety with small fruits weighing up to 2 kg. It grows well both in the field and in the greenhouse. The ripening time of the spring variety is about 105 days. It has dark red flesh.
  • Icarus. Quite a large variety. The fruits reach 16 kg with thick skin and red-raspberry very sweet pulp. Thanks to the peel, it can be stored for quite a long time.

The selection process does not stand still and now varieties have been developed with yellow flesh that has a lemon taste, as well as hybrids with black peel. Watermelons, the pulp of which does not contain seeds, are very popular.

How to plant a watermelon: video

Probably every gardener has thought about how to grow watermelon in the country. With desire and a little patience, it is easy to achieve good results in this matter. Quite simple agricultural technology will allow you to get a harvest, including for a novice gardener, and even for a child.

Selecting seed material

You can also grow watermelon seedlings from a watermelon seed purchased in a store, but in this case you cannot guarantee a good result, since the fruits of the daughter plant are unlikely to be similar to the mother ones. That is, if you purchased an unusually tasty, sweet, juicy watermelon, then the fruits grown from its seeds will certainly differ in taste. Therefore, in this case, it is better to purchase high-quality seed material at specialized sales points.

As for choosing a variety, experienced gardeners advise purchasing hybrid varieties, since they are more adapted to changeable weather conditions and the climate in which we live, and are also the most resistant to possible diseases. Among hybrid varieties the most famous are the following:

  • Astrakhan;
  • Madeira;
  • Sympathy F1;

Video about growing watermelons

However, if you are going to grow a watermelon for the first time, then you can experiment by choosing for planting, but preferably still early ripening ones, such as Ogonyok, Sugar Baby, etc.

It is necessary to start work at the end of March - mid-April, then young plant will have time to gain strength and will tolerate transplantation to a permanent place of growth well. A composition consisting of the following components is ideal as a soil mixture:

  • turf land;
  • humus or peat;
  • wood sawdust.

Work should begin at the end of March - mid-April

All ingredients are taken in equal parts and mixed well. It also makes sense to purchase ready soil and use it. As containers for growing seedlings, it is better to take individual cups or pots with a depth of at least 10-12cm.

When planting seeds, it is worth considering that they are covered with a thick shell, which is why germination takes quite a long time. To speed up the process, the seeds should be softened a little by heating them in warm water(50-55 0 C) for 10 minutes, and then leave in a wet cotton cloth until “pipping”, making sure to retain moisture. Instead of fabric, you can use hydrogel, which has recently been gaining popularity among gardeners.

After the seed has “opened” and the length of the sprout has reached 1-2 mm, it is important to harden the planting material. In this case, it is recommended to use one of two options:

  1. Fill a deep container with snow or put ice in it, and sprouted seeds on top. Leave them like this for 5-6 hours.
  2. Take a small piece of cotton cloth, moisten it with water and wring it out thoroughly. Place the hatched seeds in a damp cloth and place them in this form in the refrigerator for 5-7 hours.

When planting seeds, it is worth considering that they are covered with a thick shell, which is why germination takes quite a long time.

There is no need to worry that the sprouts will freeze and become unviable; on the contrary, such hardening is the best prevention against many diseases. These measures will allow the plant to strengthen and become less susceptible to weather conditions.

After hardening is completed, the germinated material can be planted. The seed is lowered into the prepared soil to a depth of 3-4 cm, and carefully sprinkled with earth on top. Water the plantings thoroughly, without overwatering, but the soil should be well moistened.

Next, before germination, you will need to cover the containers with the plantings with film, forming something like a greenhouse. In general, it is recommended to use simple plastic bags and rubber bands for this. Before the sprouts appear, the containers are left alone, making sure that the soil in them does not dry out. After the sprouts have appeared, the film is removed and the seedlings are placed on permanent place. The following measures are recommended for caring for seedlings:

  • timely watering. Watermelon loves moisture, so you need to make sure that the soil is moist all the time and not allow it to dry out. However, since the crop is prone to root rot, overwatering should not be allowed, as this leads to the loss of seedlings;
  • additional illumination. To prevent seedlings from stretching, it is important to extend daylight hours to 10-12 hours using a simple table lamp;

Watermelon loves moisture, so you need to make sure the soil is moist all the time.

  • Feeding. It is allowed to feed the seedlings a week after emergence. The best solution is mullein solution in a ratio of 1 to 10.

Seedlings are considered ready for planting if the plant already has 3-4 leaves, is fairly stocky and has a developed root system.

Of course, greenhouse conditions are better suited for growing watermelon. However, those gardeners who do not have the opportunity to plant a plant in a greenhouse receive wonderful harvest, V open ground.

To grow melons in open ground, choose the brightest and warmest place, preferably with sandy loam or sandy soil (ideal acidity 6-7). The predecessors of watermelons should not be allowed to be nightshade or melon plants, due to common pests.

To grow melons in open ground, choose the brightest and warmest place

The bed for watermelons is prepared in the fall. The earth is carefully dug up with half-rotted manure or humus. When digging, you must be careful about removing weed roots, since watermelon strongly dislikes such “neighbors.”

In the spring, as soon as the snow melts and the threat of day and night frosts has passed, the ground is thoroughly loosened and covered with black non-woven fabric or transparent film. Both options are possible, but many gardeners choose transparent film, as it has a number of advantages:

  • reduces evaporation from the soil in hot weather;
  • prevents the soil from becoming waterlogged during the rainy season;
  • keeps fruits dry and clean during their growth period;
  • the ground under the film is warm and moist.

After allowing the ground to warm up, small cross-shaped holes are made in the covering material for planting seedlings at intervals of approximately 140x70 cm.

A small hole is made under each hole, into which fertilizers (humus, ash) are added and watered thoroughly. The seedlings, having previously soaked the ground with abundant watering, are very carefully removed from the cups and planted, deepening the plant to the level of the root collar.

It is necessary to ensure that the soil is important, but not swampy

When deciding how to grow a watermelon in the country, do not forget that a plant growing in open ground needs appropriate care:

  1. Timely watering. It is necessary to ensure that the soil is important, but not swampy. Watering is best done in the evening. Be careful not to let water get on the leaves of the plant.
  2. Weeding. Watermelon strongly dislikes unwanted neighbors, so weed removal should be done regularly.
  3. Monitoring the growth of lashes. They must be directed in one direction, making sure that they do not intertwine with each other as they grow.
  4. Feeding. The first feeding is carried out a week after planting the seedlings in the ground. Follow the instructions for the fertilizer used. However, fertilizing should be stopped after fruit set in order to reduce the accumulation of nitrates in watermelon fruits to a minimum.
  5. Regular inspection of plants for pests and diseases.
  6. Pollination. If you do not rely on insects, then you need to pollinate manually using a special brush, which can be purchased at the store.

Growing watermelons in a greenhouse

Before planting seedlings, the soil in the greenhouse must be prepared by carefully digging it up with humus. It is worth planting plants in a greenhouse only when the threat of frost has passed; it is optimal if the daytime air temperature reaches 20-25 0 C, and at night does not fall below 5 0 C.

Video about growing watermelons in a greenhouse

Planting seedlings is done in the same way as in the case of open ground, taking into account only that the distance between plants should be 70 cm, and the row spacing should be 50 cm. Otherwise, nothing can be changed.

Growing watermelons in a greenhouse requires proper care of the plant. In addition to everything described above, it is necessary to pay more careful attention to pollination, since it can be difficult for insects to get inside. In addition, when growing watermelons in a greenhouse, in addition to the main list, it is necessary to carry out ventilation. On hot days summer days, at temperatures above 30 0, be sure to open the windows or doors in the greenhouse.

" Watermelon

Many summer residents have probably been upset more than once about the unsuccessful cultivation of watermelons on their plots. You can enjoy the taste of ripe, juicy berries if you take into account the advice of specialists and experienced gardeners. In this article we will look at the question of whether it is possible to plant watermelons at home, how difficult it is to care for them, and how often you need to fertilize and feed them to get an excellent harvest.

Growing watermelon in your own garden is not as difficult as it might seem. In the open ground at the dacha, planting occurs in several ways:

  • seed;
  • seedlings

The technology of sowing directly into the garden bed is used mainly in warm regions of the country. As soon as the soil warms up to +12°C, preparation of seeds for planting begins. In more severe climate conditions, it is impossible to do without first growing seedlings. Otherwise, the berries set on the stem will not have time to ripen before the end of summer.


Watermelons in the garden

Collateral successful cultivation watermelons in open ground are considered right choice varieties whose growing conditions correspond to the climatic characteristics of the region.

Before planting, you need to sort the seed by size, removing damaged and affected seeds. Calibration (sorting) involves dividing into groups according to size characteristics in order to ensure uniform growth of shoots. Otherwise, stronger sprouts will not allow smaller ones to develop.

There is another preparatory procedure used by gardeners in the middle zone. This is scarification, the essence of which is to deliberately damage the surface of the seed to stimulate growth. Just rub your nose on sandpaper small fraction. The main thing in this matter is not to overdo it.

An obligatory step is warming up the seed material. To do this, keep it in a thermos with hot water(+50°C) for about half an hour. Due to temperature effects, all biochemical processes are accelerated.

Disinfection is considered an integral part of preparation. The material is kept in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for about 20 minutes. After this, all that remains is to dry it under natural conditions (do not use an oven or radiator).


The most popular watermelon varieties for planting in Russia, Ukraine and Belarus

When choosing watermelon varieties, preference is given to early and mid-ripening types. Regardless of where you are going to plant melons: in Belarus, Ukraine, Russia, you need to choose the type of watermelon that will be suitable and will have time to ripen in the given climatic conditions.

The duration of the vegetative period is 80-95 days. The average weight of the fetus reaches 5-7 kg. The flesh is deep pink in color, juicy with a characteristic sweetness reminiscent of honey. The skin is dark green with yellowish stripes, medium thickness. The plant is quite unpretentious and tolerates moisture well.

Vegetative period – 58-62 days, The average weight of the berry is 7-8 kg. To ensure conditions for rapid maturation, covering material is used. Large leaves and spreading stems prevent the root system from sunburn. The hybrid is valued due to its high sugar content and the dense but delicate structure of the red pulp.

The fruit ripens in 75-85 days with an average weight of 10-11 kg. The plant is not very productive, but bears fruit consistently. The bright red flesh of the berry is juicy and crisp with a characteristic watermelon sweetness. The skin has a striped color and is thin. The variety is immune to diseases and moisture. The harvest is well preserved and transported.

The variety is an early ripening variety; the fruit ripens in just 65 days. The shape of the berry is elongated, the color is striped with alternating dark green and yellowish tones. On average, a watermelon weighs 12-14 kg. The red pulp is very juicy and tender with high content Sahara.

From the moment of planting the seedlings, the fruit ripens after 62-65 days, which classifies it as medium early species. The ten-kilogram berry has a round, slightly elongated shape with red flesh and an incredibly sweet taste. The plant is adapted to climatic conditions middle zone. Among other varieties, it is a leader in yield, marketability and preservation of fruits.

Rules for planting plants in open ground

Before planting seeds for seedlings at home, it is recommended to familiarize yourself with the features of growing watermelons in open ground. This will help to get a good harvest, taking into account climatic factors.

Selecting seeds for planting at home

The seeds must be healthy and without signs of damage. Experts recommend giving preference to hybrids that are characterized by immunity to many diseases, resistance to weather disasters, and a short growing season.

Preparation of seed material includes the following stages: calibration, heating and disinfection. Scarification is not a mandatory procedure.

Before sowing, you can lightly germinate the seeds by wrapping them in a damp cloth. After 1-3, a sprout will emerge from the spout. The main thing in the process is not to let the napkin dry out. After which you can sow them in the ground according to a certain pattern.

Preparing the soil for sowing


The culture does not tolerate transplantation well, therefore, the soil needs to be prepared for subsequent transfer with the sprout into the hole. To do this, soil with a loose structure is poured into a pot or other container. Melon plants develop well in soil enriched with humus and peat. Therefore, you need to fertilize it in advance. If the density of the earth is high, sand and peat should be added to it. Don’t forget about nutrients: superphosphate, wood ash, etc.

Planting: at what distance from each other should I plant seedlings in the ground?

Seeds are planted in open ground no earlier than the 20th of May, when warm weather sets in with temperatures ranging from +14°C and above. Seeds are sown for seedlings in the second half of April. In one pot with a diameter of 10 cm and a height of 12-14 cm, 2 seeds are buried by 3 cm. After germination, you need to leave a stronger sprout and remove the other one. The main conditions for good germination of the material:

At favorable conditions shoots will appear after 6-8 days. Then the temperature drops to +18° until a shoot of 4-5 cm is formed. After removing the weak seedling, the regime can be increased to +25°.

At the time of transfer to the garden bed, the shoot should already have at least 4 leaves (age 30-35 days). 5-7 days before transplanting, seedlings need to be watered less and the temperature regime should be set not exceeding 20°.

It is better to transplant in the morning, so the pots need to be watered well in the evening. It is also advisable to treat the shoots with a 1% solution Bordeaux mixture. The seedling is transferred to a hole with soil and buried down to the cotyledon leaves. The interval between bushes is 70-100 cm.


How to care after planting on the site?

Young shoots need protection, so after transplanting the bed is covered with film. You need to regularly ventilate the shelter to prevent condensation from forming. You can completely remove the protection in June.

Watering rules

Melon crops love moisture, but you should not overdo it with irrigation. It is enough to water the beds once a week. After the female flowers open on the plant, the hydration rate decreases. After the fruits are formed, irrigation work is not required.

Feeding and fertilizer for melons

After 12 days, the seedlings need to be fed with a nutrient mixture based on fermented mullein (10 parts water and 1 part manure). After another couple of weeks, a second complementary food is introduced with the addition of superphosphate (50 g per liter of solution), ammonium sulfate (15 g), and potassium sulfate (30 g) to the mullein.

Similar baits are used when growing seeds in open ground.

Reproduction

The crop is propagated by seeds. In nature, this is facilitated by the round shape of the berry. After ripeness, it opens and the seeds spill out along with the juice. Thrifty owners, when eating a delicious watermelon, wash it in clean water black grains and dry them. Store at room temperature in a dry place until the next season, after which they are grown in seedlings or without seedlings.


How to properly grow melons in the garden: main mistakes

In order not to repeat the mistakes of other gardeners, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the most common ones.

  • Giving preference to one variety or another, It is worth studying the ripening period of the berries. It is worth discarding mid-late and late species, no matter what taste they have.
  • Often, seeds are planted deep into dense soil. In such soil the plant does not develop well. Clay or heavy soil must be diluted with sand and peat to make the structure loose. Seeds need to be sown at a considerable distance from each other.
  • You should not choose an area overgrown with perennial weeds for melon planting. The weeds will choke the young shoots, preventing them from spreading and blooming.
  • The opinion of some summer residents that watermelon loves partial shade is considered erroneous. Planting under trees and bushes will not allow the berries to ripen; the crop loves a lot of sun.
  • Growing melons without treatments against pests and diseases casts doubt on obtaining a good harvest.
  • The lack of nutrients in the soil reduces the fruiting period and the quality of the berries. The berry definitely needs feeding and fertilizer.

Pests and problems in growing watermelons

The crop is susceptible to the same diseases as cucumbers. This:

  • peronosporosis;
  • ascochyta;
  • powdery mildew;
  • anthracnose

When growing, the same preventive measures and treatments are used as when cultivating pumpkin plants: Ordan, colloidal sulfur, Abiga-Peak, HOM, etc.


Harvesting watermelons

The following pests are considered dangerous:

  • wireworm;
  • meadow moth;
  • scoops;
  • sprout fly.

If the presence of insects or their metabolic products is detected, there is no need to delay treatment; most or all of the melon may be destroyed. If biological products do not give the desired effect after use, you should use chemical insecticides: Tantrek, Aktaru, Decis, Fufanon.

Proper harvesting

You need to pick berries from the garden at a certain time. If you do this too late, watermelon will not be stored for long. The gap between the first stage of maturity and full ripeness is only 5 days, so it is important not to miss this period. Right harvested does not lose the sweetness and elasticity of the pulp for a long time.


The following signs indicate the ripeness of fruits:

  • drying out of the tail;
  • formation of a clear pattern on the crust;
  • disappearance of the bluish coating;
  • Availability yellow spots on the surface of the berry;
  • the smell is reminiscent of the aroma of freshly cut grass;
  • When tapping, a ringing sound is heard.

A clue to the ripeness of the berries can be the approximate timing of fruit ripening:

  • early varieties – 32-35 days;
  • medium varieties - 40-45 days;
  • late varieties - 50-53 days.

It is quite possible to grow delicious juicy berries on your own plot if you take into account all the nuances and rules. Even if you grow watermelons in Khabarovsk or Bashkiria. Watermelon culture, although unpretentious, still requires attention. Diligence and work will certainly be rewarded with a generous harvest of record-breaking berries.

Thanks to the work of breeders, every year in central Russia it is possible to grow more and more vegetables and fruit and berry crops. For example, not only residents of the southern regions, but also the northern ones can boast of a watermelon harvest. Perhaps fruits grown in a moderately warm climate will not be as large, but sweet and juicy. How to grow watermelon in your summer cottage? Experienced gardeners It is recommended to start by choosing a suitable variety, and also carefully study the agricultural technology of the crop.

Choosing a variety and location on the site for growing watermelons

The plant's homeland is the southern part of Africa, thanks to which it is well adapted to hot and dry air. To successfully grow sweet fruits, a summer resident needs to organize similar conditions on the site. If the summer is expected to be rainy, then it would be wiser to plant the crop in a greenhouse to regulate the temperature and humidity.

Currently, there are up to 50 varieties of watermelons that can be grown in warm-temperate climates. The main requirements are that the variety must be early ripening and cold-resistant. In the central and northern regions of the country, the following varieties are most popular, suitable for growing in open ground:

  • Crimson Sweet,
  • Skorik,
  • Ogonyok,
  • Sugar baby
  • Krimstar F1,
  • Pink champagne F1,
  • Gift to the North F1.

To grow watermelons, you need to choose a sunny and warm place on the site, preferably with south side building. When preparing the ridge, it is advisable to make a slight slope in the southern direction, so the soil will warm up better. Melon crops prefer loose and light soil, so river sand is added when digging. The composition of the earth should be closer to a neutral reaction.

When choosing a place to prepare a bed, you need to look at what plants grew previously. Planting watermelons after other melons (pumpkins, cucumbers or melons) is strictly not recommended. Pest larvae and fungal spores may remain in the soil, affecting this particular type of plant. The best predecessors are: sunflower, corn, beans, peas, lupine.

The groundwater level in the area should not be high; watermelon roots develop both horizontally and vertically, going to a depth of 100 cm.

Preparing a bed for growing watermelon

How to grow a watermelon and properly prepare the soil? The bed must be dug up in the fall, while simultaneously introducing required amount fertilizers You will need both organic and mineral-containing compounds. For 1 m² of bed you will need:

  • humus or compost - 2-3 buckets,
  • superphosphate – 30 g,
  • potassium sulfate – 20 g.

It is better not to apply nitrogen in the fall, or to use an extremely small amount, as it contributes to the accumulation of nitrates in fruits. To get a rich harvest, it is better to take complex fertilizers, which, in addition to the main substances, also contain magnesium, iron, and molybdenum.

Planting watermelon seeds

How to grow watermelon in the Russian climate? There are 2 ways to germinate seeds - planting directly in the ground and pre-growing seedlings at home. When growing seedlings, you don’t have to worry that spring will be late and the fruits won’t have time to ripen, because already formed seedlings are planted in the ground. On the other hand, seedlings hatched in a greenhouse or in open ground are more viable and resistant to diseases.

Growing seedlings

The roots of the seedlings are very delicate and fragile, so there is no need to sow in a common box. It is better to purchase peat tablets and plant the crop on them. By placing the substrate in small plastic containers, in the spring, when planting in the ground, you can easily cut them and remove them peat tablet without disturbing the seedling.

Seeds begin to be planted in early May. They should be germinated first. First, the seed is placed in a “bath” of hot water (+50 °C) for 30 minutes, and then placed in slightly moistened river sand. Germination should be carried out at an air temperature of about +24–26 °C. When the seeds have small light roots, they can be planted in prepared containers with a nutrient substrate, sprinkled with sand on top. IN daytime Watermelon cultivation is carried out at a temperature of +24–26 °C, at night 5 degrees lower. Under such conditions, the first shoots will appear on the 8th day.

For good growth seedlings must be provided with intense lighting. It is important to set the daylight hours to at least 12 hours using artificial lighting, otherwise the seedlings will stretch out and stop growing.

With the appearance of the 3rd leaf, the seedlings are fertilized using organic or mineral fertilizers. The plant is planted in open ground only in summer, the most favorable time is from July 8 to July 16.

Planting watermelon seeds in open ground

Growing watermelons directly in the open ground is quite within the power of Russian summer residents, the main thing is to choose suitable variety. You can sow seeds when the soil has warmed to a depth of 10 cm and the air temperature is stable and not lower than +15 °C. After planting, the soil is moistened and a temporary greenhouse is built over the ridge from polyethylene film. This will accelerate the growth of shoots and protect against a sharp drop in temperature. As soon as the seedlings sprout, they need to be thinned out, removing the weakest ones. After the appearance of the 4th leaf, final culling is carried out and only the tallest and strongest shoots are left, maintaining a distance between them of about 90–100 cm.

Features of watermelon care

How to grow watermelon with aromatic and sweet pulp? Only by providing the plants with quality care can you count on getting a good harvest.

Temperature conditions and the formation of lashes

Fertilization of the ovaries and ripening of the fruits should occur at an air temperature of +25 °C to +28 °C. With a sharp cold snap, plants can get sick and die; already at a temperature of +15 °C their development stops. Experienced farmers in the northern regions prefer to grow crops exclusively in a greenhouse or greenhouse. You can install arcs over the bed and, if necessary, cover or remove the film. It should be noted that watermelons do not like high air humidity, and condensation forms under the film. To solve this problem, place a piece of gauze or non-woven material under the polyethylene.

To stimulate flowering, pinch the vine after the 6th leaf appears. Next, to make the fruits ripen faster, pinch the shoots 3-4 leaves above the ovary.

Watering watermelon and applying fertilizers

The plant has a long central root, which in the arid southern regions helps it extract moisture from the depths of the soil. Watermelons should be watered infrequently, but abundantly, spending about 3 buckets of water per bush. After the procedure, it is recommended to loosen the soil around the base of the bush to provide the roots with good aeration. Weeds are removed as necessary.

Growing watermelons requires the application of fertilizers. The first feeding should be carried out at the moment of lash formation, using mullein in a ratio of 1:8 or a solution of bird droppings (1:20). Additionally, superphosphate is added to increase green mass. Potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are used at the moment of formation of ovaries.

When placing the canes vertically, it would be wise to install strong supports in the garden bed. Once the fruit reaches the size of an orange, it is placed in an elastic net and tied to a support. From this point on, watering must be reduced, otherwise the fruit may crack. The harvest is harvested as it ripens; as soon as the stem of the watermelon dries out, it can be cut off.

Video on how to grow watermelon

It has become common practice for gardeners to grow watermelon. The process is simple, but it has certain difficulties that need to be taken into account when growing (the plant may die before flowering begins, the fruits do not always grow tasty, and so on). More information about how to grow a watermelon with your own hands will be discussed in this article.

The issue of choosing a variety should be approached with special responsibility. For the central zone of the Russian Federation, it is advisable to choose only early ripening varieties, and there is no need to chase huge fruits in this matter - such watermelons realize their potential 100% only when grown in the south of the country. Be sure to read the description of the variety on the packaging - information about the duration of ripening is indicated there (plant ovaries should ripen as quickly as possible).

On a note! You can neglect some qualities when choosing a variety. First of all, it is large-fruited and transportable. Also, do not pay attention to the color and shape of the fruit - this is only necessary in cases where you grow watermelons not for yourself, but for sale.

The most common varieties of watermelon:

  • "Kai"
  • "Sugar Baby";
  • "Ataman F1";
  • "Ultra-early";
  • "Stokes";
  • "Spark";
  • "Moscow Charleston F1";
  • "Yarilo";
  • "Crimstar F1";
  • "Leader";
  • "Pink champagne F1";
  • "Gift to the North F1".

This is only a small part of the varieties that can be grown not only in the south of the country, but most often people choose them. Having decided on the variety of watermelon, you can start growing it.

How to grow watermelon in open ground

Not everyone knows, but watermelons can be grown without seedlings, but with seeds, already in a permanent place. Often, seedlings are used only for further replanting in greenhouses so that the watermelon can ripen. But if you are growing watermelon on garden plot, then you can safely skip the stage with seedlings and sow seeds.

The planting process is divided into several preparatory stages to get a good harvest. Let's consider each of them separately.

Preparation of seed material

Having chosen the appropriate variety, wrap the seeds in a cloth bandage and place them on a shallow plate, pouring a pre-prepared solution of potassium permanganate. The solution should be light pink and warm. After this, the saucer with the seeds must be placed in plastic bag and tie it, taking in some air. Transfer the plate with the seed to a warm room (at least +20°C). Change the solution daily and ventilate the bag. After 2-3 days, the seeds should hatch, after which they will be ready for planting in the ground.

Soil preparation

It is very important to prepare land plot before planting a watermelon. This is an integral part of growing, without which you are unlikely to be able to get good harvest. The prepared soil should provide plants nutrients throughout the entire growth period, it should be protected from strong winds and also well lit.

Watermelon, as well as other melons, requires loose, fertile and light soil. It’s great if your suburban area has sandy loam or sandy soil, which you enriched with rotted humus in the autumn. If we talk about suitable predecessors of watermelons, then these are, of course, cruciferous vegetables, as well as legumes.

For best result It is advisable to prepare the beds in advance and fertilize the soil. To do this, for 1 sq. m area you need to add 20 g potash fertilizers, 40 g and 30 g ammonium sulfate. This combination mineral fertilizers will significantly accelerate the growth of watermelon, as a result of which you will be able to enjoy juicy and sweet fruits a little earlier.

Sowing watermelon seeds

The process of planting watermelon seeds is simple and practically no different from planting any other crop.

Table. Step-by-step instructions for sowing watermelon seeds.

Steps, photoDescription of actions

Start sowing watermelon seeds in early May as it is a very heat-loving plant. Otherwise, if you do this earlier, the plant will greatly slow down in development. Take out pre-prepared seed material that has already sprouted.

You should also have a planting mixture ready, consisting of rotted humus, ash, mineral fertilizers and peat (the composition may vary, since there are many different recipes for preparing the mixture).

Dig a large hole for the watermelon and fill it with a small amount of water.

Pour the prepared mixture of fertilizers and humus into the hole. Gently level with a hoe and water.

Place at least 5 seeds in the hole (5 cm deep) and cover it all with soil. The layer of soil should be approximately 4 cm thick. Carefully compact the soil so that the seeds are not blown away by the wind or are injured. Repeat the procedure for each well.

Important! At first, you need to sow 5-6 seeds in each hole, but over time, when they begin to develop, leave one plant in the hole.

Aftercare

Without providing proper care, including fertilizing and watering, it is impossible to grow a watermelon in the garden. The juiciness of the fruit directly depends on the level of humidity, but you shouldn’t overdo it, because you won’t be able to enjoy the sugar pulp of sweet berries, which everyone loves so much. Conventionally, subsequent care can be divided into 4 stages: watering, fertilizing, pruning vines and exterminating pests. Let's consider each of them separately.

Watering

When growing watermelons in a summer cottage, it is advisable to use. This will allow for regular fertilizing of crops.

The best option is drip irrigation

Watermelons need abundant but infrequent watering, especially during hot periods when there is a lack of natural moisture - remember this! For comfortable growth of watermelons, the soil moisture level should be at least 80%. If the site is located on sandy soil, then the beds will need to be watered more often due to poor moisture retention. Clay soil and water the black soil less often. Once the berries begin to ripen and become plump, reduce the amount of watering, and after a few weeks, stop them altogether.

Top dressing

Feeding watermelons grown in a summer cottage consists of three procedures, each of which must be performed subject to certain conditions: at least 2 liters of liquid fertilizers must be per plant. After 7 days from the moment of planting the seeds, it is necessary to regularly water the plants with a special solution prepared with your own hands (all ingredients and their proportions were described above).

After the vines on the plants actively begin to grow, you need to fertilize the watermelons a second time, but this time the amount of potassium and phosphorus fertilizers should be half as much. When the formation of the ovaries begins, you need to carry out another feeding, only with a different composition. Mix 10 liters of water, 35 g of potassium salts, 10 g of superphosphate and 20 g of ammonium sulfate.

Apply the prepared nutrient mixture into previously prepared furrows, which should be at a distance of 15 cm from the plant bushes. The amount of nitrogen fertilizers should be reduced due to the likelihood of their accumulation in the pulp of watermelons. In addition, such measures can provoke the ripening of the plant, and not the accumulation of green mass.

Trimming lashes

For short and not enough warm summer Some watermelon fruits do not have time to ripen, although the bush still spends energy on them, which could be distributed to other berries that actually ripen. Therefore, there should be no more than 5 watermelons on each plant. Remove everything unnecessary.

Important! When growing watermelons, you need to remember that on the main vine of the plant, female flowers– you can’t touch them, but remove the side lashes. Compliance with all recommendations will allow you to get a harvest in the second half of August.

Pest Control

The melon aphid, which appears in June, can cause many problems for watermelons. Living on the underside of the leaves, it sucks all the vital juices from the plant, causing the leaves to wrinkle and dry. During the summer, aphids can produce 2-3 generations. At first, the pests live only on weeds, but with the onset of June, the females move to watermelons, remaining there until the beginning of autumn. The melon aphid lays its eggs on weeds, which overwinter there.

To protect watermelons from aphids, it is advisable to regularly weed the beds from various weeds, as well as mow the areas located next to the watermelons being grown. If you notice pests, immediately treat the plants with a special decoction or infusion prepared from celandine, garlic or onion peels. If these remedies do not help and the foliage system of the plants is severely damaged, then strong chemicals can be used - for example, INTA-VIR, Karbofos, Iskra.

In addition to aphids, watermelons can be susceptible to various diseases, such as sclerotinia, bacteriosis, copperhead, various types of rot and so on. For treatment, you need to prepare a decoction of horsetail. To do this, pour 1 liter of water into 1 tbsp. l. plants and simmer over low heat for 15 minutes. As an alternative, you can use another remedy - milk mixed with iodine. If the plants have been severely affected, use Kuprosat or Oxychloride. The development of Fusarium wilt can cause the plant to die within a few days. The spread of infection occurs through plant debris, seeds or soil.

To prevent watermelon from developing diseases, it is advisable to treat the seeds with Baktofit solution for 3 hours before planting. If some plants are nevertheless damaged by the disease, then they need to be destroyed in order to protect healthy ones from infection, which, in turn, need to be fed with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.

Harvesting

Fruit harvesting is the final stage in the process of growing watermelons. It is not recommended to rush into this matter, because many of the fruits that have reached large sizes, are still immature. Ripe tomatoes can be determined by the change in color of the fruit; when growing zucchini and cucumbers, it is important not to be late in harvesting, otherwise the vegetables may lose their beneficial features. But when should you pick watermelons? Upon landing early ripening varieties You can get the harvest no earlier than mid-August. Mass harvesting is not carried out during this period; the ripeness of the berries must be determined by external signs. First of all, look at the bract and tendrils - if they are dry, then the watermelon can be harvested. Also, when you lightly tap the berry with your fingers, dull sounds should be heard. The combination of these signs indicates the ripeness of the fruit.

If you are growing watermelons for further transportation and storage, it is better to pick the berries a couple of days before ripening. They will then ripen by being kept in a warm and dry environment. At the same time, watermelons will not lose their qualities.

Video - Growing watermelons with seedlings