I have been using “Baikal EM 1” in my garden for a long time, but the first experiments were unhappy. I even thought it was nonsense and not a drug. Deception.

But when I figured it out, everything fell into place. Now I want to tell you about my first mistakes so that others don’t repeat them. This is a drug that contains effective microorganisms in concentrated form. And this was my first mistake. I happily brought “Baikal” home and in a hurry, without reading the instructions, I simply spread water on my eye - and let’s water everything

Beneficial microorganisms need something to eat, so dissolve jam in 2 liters of water.

The effect was zero. And no wonder. When I began to be outraged, my husband joined in. It was he who read on the packaging what and how to do it correctly, and then watched the video on the Internet.

This is what I understood from this: in “Baikal” there live special organisms that help improve soil. So this is not a fertilizer with microelements, but a whole little world. And for it to continue to exist, it needs to create special conditions. You will need 4 liters of water.

It needs to stand for a couple of days: the chlorine should evaporate.

You can use rainwater. Then you need to heat the water so that it is lukewarm - I usually just add a little boiling water. First pour 2 liters into the bucket. Beneficial organisms need something to eat, so dissolve jam (8-10 tablespoons) in 2 liters of water, just be sure to strain it so that only syrup remains.

This will be a breeding ground for our bacteria. Then pour the concentrate itself (the whole jar) into a bucket of jam and stir.

Add the remaining 2 liters of water. Since effective microorganisms are still in dormant mode, so to speak, they need to be “awakened”. To do this, pour the contents of the bucket into two two-liter bottles - it is better if they are made of dark plastic, which transmits less light.

Pour water right up to the neck; there should be practically no air left in the bottle. And now send these bottles to a dark, warm place.

In winter, I keep them close to the radiator in the bathroom. There's just a dark nook there. But I don’t place them close to the batteries (they overheat and that’s it, the living world inside is destroyed, the drug is spoiled).

And in spring, summer and autumn, you can use a greenhouse or hotbed to keep the solution. Just be sure to cover the bottles with something: a thick rag, a bucket, cardboard or a basin.

After all, light can destroy microorganisms. Bottles last a week. If everything is done correctly, the microorganisms will come out of sleep. A sign of this is the gas that forms in the bottles.

Therefore, once a day you need to quietly open the lid and release this gas. That's all science is. Well, then just water the plants, adding 1 tbsp to the bucket. a spoonful of the drug. Good luck to all summer residents!

Below are other entries on the topic “Do-it-yourself cottage and garden”

Good day, friends!

Before I start my story about how to prepare EM preparations with my own hands, I first want to talk a little about them.

In recent years, EM fertilizers, which stands for effective microorganisms, have become increasingly popular. To understand how they work, let's look at the soil composition.

The organic substance called contains a whole complex of useful compounds necessary for the fruitful growth, development and fruiting of all crops. The percentage of humus in the soil is higher, the more microorganisms live in it. Accordingly, soil fertility depends directly on the humus it contains.

Microorganisms live and develop in any soil; the only differences are in the variety of strains and their number. The main functions of microorganisms: decomposition of organic residues, their processing into forms bioavailable to plants, loosening the soil, improving soil structure, etc. In the climate middle zone for a long time winter period most of them freeze out, and the colonies beneficial bacteria are restored only at the end of summer, when most crops are already finishing their growing season.

Increasing soil fertility with green manure plants

To revive the humus layer, gardeners actively use cultivation technology with their subsequent incorporation into the soil. After harvesting the main crops (summer-early autumn), the area is sown with phacelia, alfalfa, clover, winter oats, rye, etc., which within 2 months gain green mass, ready for embedding in the ground. Sometimes green manure plants are left to overwinter and the area is dug up in early spring. In the ground, biomass decomposes quickly enough, enriching the soil with essential nutrients. minerals, including: calcium, phosphorus, potassium and humus.

Increasing soil fertility using EM preparations

EM technologies have been developed for the same purpose. There are special EM preparations on sale that contain the necessary soil bacteria in concentrated form. They mainly consist of enzyme fungi, beneficial bacteria, and yeast-like compounds. Each package describes in detail the method of application (dilution) of these biofertilizers. The concentration must be strictly observed so that microorganisms do not fall into a dormant state or die altogether.

EM fertilizers are used after the snow melts and the soil warms up to a temperature of about +10°C (approximately April-early May), watering the beds with the prepared solution. At temperatures above 14-15°C, microorganisms emerge from hibernation and begin rapid growth and vital activity. To feed beneficial bacteria and microorganisms, natural organic matter is used, for example, farm animal manure, garden compost, mown grass, hay, straw, last year's, etc.

That is, after adding the EM solution, the organic matter at your disposal is incorporated into the soil. In 14-15 days, the microorganisms will fully strengthen, get used to the soil, becoming part of it, distribute evenly in the upper layers, and even improve air and moisture permeability and the biochemical composition of the soil. Seedlings or seeds should not be planted during this period, because if you rush into planting, the immature bacteria may take over cultivated plants for their food and destroy them. The same effect can be observed when the concentrations of microorganisms introduced into the soil are exceeded.

The benefits of EM preparations for the garden

Improvement of soil structure;

Increasing the number of beneficial microorganisms in the soil;

Improving the health of the earth and creating unfavorable conditions for the growth and development of pathogenic bacteria, because beneficial microorganisms simply destroy dangerous ones;

Increasing the immunity of plants and their resistance to adverse factors (sudden changes in temperature, pest invasion, crop diseases);

Thanks to the better mineral composition of the soil, plants are provided with a variety of nutrients in sufficient quantities, as a result - a significant increase in productivity;

Height vegetable crops is ahead of its relatives cultivated without the use of EM technologies (the stems are thicker, the tops develop faster, the plants look strong and healthy).

How to prepare EM preparations with your own hands: 3 time-tested recipes

1. Herbal concentrate. Weeds, preferably with the presence medicinal herbs, growing on your site, for example, chamomile, peppermint, celandine, plantain, burdock, etc., chop and put in a 250-liter barrel (for this volume take 6 full buckets of grass). Add about two buckets of finished compost, half a bucket, fill to the top with clean water, cover with a lid and leave for about two weeks. The finished concentrate is used to prepare a fertilizer composition - 1 liter of herbal infusion per 10 liters clean water. All trees, shrubs, vegetable and berry crops are watered with this solution at the rate of 1.5 liters per plant.

2. Rice concentrate. Pour 0.25 ml of water into a quarter glass of rice and stir for 10 minutes until the water turns white and cloudy. Only drained water is used for the preparation; rice can be used for cooking. The rice infusion is left to ferment in a warm place in a glass jar for a week, filtered, topped with 2.5 liters of whole milk and allowed to brew for another 6 days. At the end of the cooking period, the curd mass that accumulates on top is removed, and a tablespoon of granulated sugar is dissolved in the whey. The finished concentrate is stored in the refrigerator. To awaken microorganisms and use fertilizer, the mixture is diluted with clean water in a ratio of 1:20 and used for watering plants.

3. Universal complex nutrition with microorganisms based on yeast. Prepare the mash: half a glass of sugar and a pinch of dry yeast are diluted in a three-liter jar of water. The mixture is left to ferment for three days, after which it is poured into a 200-liter barrel. A quarter of a bucket of vegetable ash is also added there, the same amount river sand, half a bucket of mullein or bird droppings and mature compost (can be replaced with high-quality humus or soil from your own garden), a full bucket of rotted hay (can be replaced with rotten straw or fallen leaves from last season) and 1 liter of fermented milk product (yogurt, curdled milk , whey, kefir, fermented baked milk with live bacteria). The barrel is filled to the top with water, covered with a lid, and the mixture is infused for at least a week. The mixture needs to be mixed regularly (stir once or twice a day). The finished concentrate is used from the beginning of spring to the end of summer, watering plants with it (dilute with water 1:5 - 1:10, depending on needs different cultures in enhanced nutrition).

All fertilizing should be carried out either in cloudy weather or after sunset, since microorganisms do not tolerate direct sunlight. It is also undesirable to fertilize the beds in rainy weather, since bacteria will be washed into the deep layers of the soil along with precipitation.

In addition to applying to the soil in the spring and feeding plants, EM compositions are effective for treating planting material before sowing (soaking seeds, spraying potato tubers), preparing fungicidal solutions for disease prevention (use both for spraying plants and for soil disinfection). The addition of EM preparations significantly accelerates the maturation of compost and the decomposition of fresh manure. Good result allows the use of concentrates for the purpose of processing and eliminating the smell of feces in country toilets.

Thus, we can conclude that modern EM technologies are applicable in every household plot. And only you can choose whether to cook EM-drugswith your own hands independently, relying on the experience of experienced summer residents, or purchase them in specialized stores. Have a good harvest and easy work! See you!

In Japan, even an EM philosophy arose. Preparations of effective microorganisms are considered a kind of “living water” that has a life-giving effect on everything around. They are used to maintain the health of pets, clean rooms and water bodies, and as dietary supplements. They suppress pathogenic soil microflora, protect against diseases, pests and harmful chemical compounds, increase productivity, accelerate the ripening of fruits and improve their taste, and contribute to their better preservation. The use of effective microorganisms eliminates deep plowing and chemicalization Agriculture, allows you to grow a healthy crop, protect the soil from excessive use of fertilizers and garden pest control products.

In our country, the pioneer in the development of technology for effective microorganisms was Peter Shablin. EM preparations contain strains of beneficial photosynthetic and lactic acid bacteria, yeast and other microorganisms, over 80 varieties in total. A solution of effective microorganisms can be used in crop production, livestock farming, fruit growing, in the preparation of animal feed, in land reclamation, for cleaning Wastewater and when processing waste.

EM technologies are extremely effective in increasing agricultural productivity. Soaking the seeds doubles the yield, a single spraying of the seedlings increases the yield by 30%, and if this is done weekly - by 150%!

Application of EM technologies and drugs (with video)

EM preparations are used both in the process of processing plant waste and in the preparation of compost. The use of EM preparations during the composting process makes compost 2-6 times more effective than usual. EM technologies make it possible to revive depleted soils, literally killed by improper agricultural practices. Using EM technologies, it is possible to restore soil fertility and accelerate the formation of humus.

In our country, the industrial production of such drugs has also been established. Check them out at garden centers! It could be “Shine”, “Renaissance” or “Baikal”. Don’t dismiss them, this is a new word in garden agricultural technology. EM preparations are used in several ways: for watering, spraying or accelerating the maturation of compost.

Watch the use of EM drugs in the video and continue the story about the rules for their use:

These rules are few, and they are simple and clear:

• You cannot use chlorinated water to prepare solutions (microorganisms will die!), so take well, rain or clean river water;
• Before use, it is necessary to “feed” the microorganisms by adding candied jam or honey in a 1:1 ratio (that is, 100 g of the drug will require 100 g of jam). This is done in order to create a breeding ground for the rapid proliferation of bacteria;
• the prepared solution is not subject to long-term storage, especially in the refrigerator or in the light.

Preparation of EM solutions for treatment with EM preparation

For watering and spraying, prepare EM solutions in a concentration of 1:1000, that is, take 1 tablespoon of the drug and old candied jam per 10 liters of water. And to a 200-liter barrel (plastic only!) you need to add 200 ml (just a glass!) of the drug, and, as already mentioned, a glass of pre-diluted jam, stir everything and leave for 5-7 hours. In a sweet nutrient medium, microorganisms will begin to multiply intensively. Next, treatment with the EM preparation begins: using a barrel pump, you water at the root or spray trees, bushes, peonies, phloxes, whatever comes to hand, the solution will flow down to the ground, no problem - that’s how it should be. The earth will subsequently acquire an unprecedented dark color and turn almost into black soil. At the specified concentrations, this procedure is completely safe for people, animals, insects and birds.

Preparation of compost with EM preparations: application of EM technology in the garden plot

EM technologies on garden plot allow you to significantly speed up various processes. For a compost heap, the concentration of the solution should be 10 times higher, that is, 1:100. Therefore, we pour a 500 ml bottle of purchased EM preparation for compost into 100 ml bottles into five 10-liter buckets (if there is a lot of compost). You can limit yourself to a smaller amount of the finished solution, the main thing is that the proportion should be 100 ml of the finished concentrate per 10 liters of water. Add 3-4 tbsp to each bucket. spoons of old candied jam and leave for an hour or two. During this time, microorganisms will wake up and begin their work. Here we put them into the compost, evenly shedding our pile.

These preparations cannot be used at the initial stage of composting, since the beneficial microorganisms contained in them will die from high temperature compost heap. It's better to do this towards the end summer season When fermentation processes subside, the compost cools down.

When is EM compost ready using special preparations based on effective microorganisms? Practicing gardeners claim that compost prepared with the help of EO preparations can be used after 1.5-2 months, although the fermentation processes there will still continue. Therefore, relatively fresh EM compost should not be applied directly to the root zone of trees or other plants. In such cases, it is recommended to make a mash at the rate of 1 kg of compost per bucket of well or rain water. This liquid must be filtered and diluted another 10 times. And with such a diluted solution you can safely water the beds, flower beds, and trunk circles of trees and bushes.

If time is not in a hurry, then let the compost mature. Well-ripened compost is a haven for a large number of earthworms, which digest the waste products of bacteria. Such compost can be applied safely to all crops. After this for better effect plantings should be watered abundantly.

But in order to start life-giving processes in the soil, it is not necessary to wait for complete fermentation during the preparation of EM compost: it can be scattered around the area, followed by watering and covering with soil. It can be applied into holes in handfuls or between rows in a “rivulet”, lightly embedded in the ground. Experience has shown that it will be further spread by worms throughout the entire area of ​​the site.

Using EM-1 at a concentration of 1:100 (100 ml per 10 liters of well water) is an effective method of weed control. An area that is free of cultivated plants, but overgrown with weeds, should be poured with such a concentrated solution, then the roots of the weeds should be cut, preferably with a flat cutter. Trimmed roots are attacked by microorganisms and quickly ferment. This operation is very effective in the fall. It can be done in the spring, but in this case, planting at the treatment site is possible no earlier than after 2 weeks, when the microorganisms have “calmed down” a little and will not pose a threat to the seedlings and roots. They don’t care what they eat, so don’t let them down!

If the drug EM-1 is used to improve the health of the land and increase its productivity, then to combat diseases, lichens on trees, powdery mildew and harmful insects, use the drug EM-5 at a concentration of 1:1000. Getting on the leaves of plants, it creates an unfavorable environment for the development of pathogenic microflora and makes it inedible for insects. And once on the trunks of apple trees, EM-5 destroys lichens.

When preparing the working solution, strictly follow the instructions on the package! It is necessary to spray with a diluted fine solution (from a sprayer, not a hose!) once a week from the very beginning of the growing season, creating unbearable conditions for harmful insects. If pests do appear, the fight should be intensified, sprayed daily at a higher concentration of 1:500 or even 1:250.

Material prepared by: , teacher of the Department of Geoecology and Environmental Management

© When using site materials (quotes, tables, images), the source must be indicated.

EM means effective microorganisms. The transition of agricultural farming to EM technology gives a wide range of positive effects (see figure), and negative short-term and long-term ones are excluded in principle.

Today, EM technology is the only real opportunity to solve the global food problem while simultaneously improving the environment. It seems like a miracle, but it's true. The mass introduction of EM technologies into agriculture is hampered by only one circumstance: the magnitude of the positive EM effects for a specific crop under certain cultivation conditions is not yet accurately and unambiguously predictable. Big agricultural technology, designed to provide food for billions of people, cannot afford such a risk. But in private household plots (LPH) EO preparations are already used quite widely, and here the generalized experience of small private owners can be invaluable. And for the owner himself, the use of EO preparations will provide a bountiful, environmentally friendly harvest, significant savings on agrochemicals and the ability to eventually use it only sporadically in emergency cases.

History of EV

In essence, EM technology is an ancient invention: the fermentation (fermentation) of an organic nutrient medium into dough, beer, kvass, and wine is already the effect of EM. EM agricultural technology is distinguished by the fact that its preparations use bacteria and fungi together (see below), the strains of which are carefully selected. As a result, the use of EO preparations gives an amazing effect: the soil under high-yielding crops is not depleted, but, on the contrary, reaches maximum fertility in the given climatic conditions and subsequently maintains it without systematic application mineral fertilizers. Plants acquire resistance to diseases and pests, which makes it possible to reduce the use of pesticides to occasional cases. In fact, EM technology creates sustainable biocenoses that do not exist in the wild, the viability of which is aimed not at survival under pressure from competitors, but at maximum agricultural production. This is what took millennia of work by researchers and experts.

The targeted development of EM drugs began in the 20s of the last century in the USSR under the leadership of N. I. Vavilov. As is known, Stalin’s secret police starved him to death in prison at the libel of the world-famous obscurantist Trofim Lysenko, and the leading expert on the topic, N.V. Timofeev-Resovsky, emigrated even earlier. In the 70s, work on EM technology was nevertheless resumed in the Siberian Branch of the USSR Academy of Sciences under the leadership of I. A. Mazilkin, but during the heyday of stagnation it did not come to field experiments, but colossal material on the topic was accumulated.

At the same time, Teruo Higa became interested in EM technologies in Japan, which was chronically poor in its own food supply. The results of the Siberians' experiments were published in the open press. Dr. Higa supplemented them with his own capital developments and in the 80s he was able to begin large-scale experiments in productive areas. Their results exceeded expectations. In the 90s, Higa’s group and Russian scientists came into close contact, and mass production of EM drugs was established in the Russian Federation. Currently, research into EM technologies with a focus on large-scale agricultural technology is being conducted all over the world.

Composition and action

The composition of EO preparations includes numerous strains of lactic acid and photosynthetic bacteria, imperfect fungi from the classes of yeasts, actinomycetes and other soil-forming species; they are brought with the raw materials for preparing the concentrate, see below. In the drug concentrate, its “population” is present in the form of spores, so the concentrate in an unopened container under suitable conditions (in the dark at a temperature of +15 +25 degrees) is stored almost indefinitely.

The initiators of the awakening of EM are (in order of action sequence):

• light;
• humidity (dilution with water);
• temperature (from +(3-4) to +(25-27) degrees);
• nutritious seed (sugar);
• free oxygen;
• nutrient medium.

Once in suitable conditions(on the left in the figure), EM strains awaken sequentially and/or in groups, stimulating each other to “eat” food. Their waste products and dead EM form a loose, permeable, highly nutritious substrate for plants and soil organisms of brown or dark gray color (on the right in the figure). It differs from dense black, nitrogen-oversaturated conventional compost (far right) not only and not so much in accelerated maturation (1 week - 3 months instead of 2-3 years). And not only because in the process of preparing anaerobic EM compost (see below), phosphorus, potassium, meso- and microelements of plant nutrition are practically not leached, again, in contrast to conventional compost.

Fundamentally new compost

If we consider NPK as the main elements of plant nutrition, then the vital ones are carbon, hydrogen and oxygen CHO; Without them, organic synthesis is impossible for any living thing. Plants obtain CHO in the form of water and carbon dioxide. Last of atmospheric air, but not from above, but from below. In the lower 10-40 cm of air above the underlying surface, the CO2 content can exceed that at a height of more than 1.5 m by 3-15 or more times; This is why it is so harmful to sleep on the floor.

In the open air, the “lower” CO2 comes predominantly. from the soil. For normal plant life, it is extremely important not only the NPK content in the soil, but also the ratio of active carbon and nitrogen in it; so nitrogen fertilizers are still the most important, no matter how much the opponents of nitrates scream. In a soil of normal productivity the C:N ratio is approx. 11:1, and the optimal for plants is C:N=25:1. This is an adaptive factor that allows plants to constantly have a reserve of vitality at the ready. The analogy is with us - you need to eat right so that when you get up from the table, you want to eat something else, and for athletes, fighters, etc., whose occupation requires them to endure physical and emotional stress, overeating is strictly contraindicated.

Regular compost has a monstrously huge C:N=2:1. Again by analogy: it’s the same as feeding a lumberjack or a special forces soldier sweets to the point of nausea. And it will only harm him, and it will be of no use. In EM compost C:N=(30-70):1. Let’s compare it with the “average soil”, we get (41-81):2=(20.5-40.5):1. The lower value is almost optimal. Upper – the plants have eaten their fill, but not excessively: excessive growth of tops is possible, but yield losses and accumulation of nitrates in the fruits are still very far away. On the contrary, there will most likely be some increase in yield due to an increase in the assimilating surface. And C:N will still be quite enough for the well-being of soil formers.

Why is that? Because this is the average C:N in a mixture of organic waste, see fig.

Low ratio means C:N<15, высокое C:N>35, very high C:N>50. And this is not accidental: after all, waste is excretions, parts or entire dead living organisms that have already optimized their composition. During the ripening process of ordinary compost under the influence of random fermenters, either C or N appears in excess and volatilizes in the form of carbon dioxide and ammonia. Plant nutrition elements in the ripened mass are present in the form of both chelates and mineral salts; the ratio of both is unstable depending on the composition of the waste and the maturation of the mass. The EM drug creates a self-sufficient microbiocenosis, which actually completely processes what has already passed away into chelated forms of nutrients, most suitable for assimilation by living autotrophs. Which feed heterotrophs with the fruits of their vital activity, incl. and you and me. This is the more or less scientifically expressed idea of ​​N. I. Vavilov and N. V. Timofeev-Resovsky.

EM drugs

Currently, in almost any agricultural store you can buy many types of EM concentrates: Baikal EM, Vozrozhdenie, Vostok EM, Gumat EM, Niva EM-1, Siyanie, Slox, Tamir, Embionik-08, Emix, EM Kurunga, Emochka, etc. Simple It is also possible to prepare EO preparations with your own hands from available raw materials, see below. Baikal EM is the most popular, because It was from here that the industrial production of EO concentrates began. From the Baikal EM concentrate you can make not only a composter, but also an effective fertilizer and preventive plant protection product (PPP), non-toxic and safe. In addition, once purchased, the Baikal EM concentrate is easily “multiplied” at home, see below. However, small gardeners working on chronically depleted soils should pay no less attention to Vostok EM and its analogues in composition, see video:

Video: about the drug Vostok EM

However, all this diversity is quite clearly divided into 4 groups, because Most analogues are produced by “reproduction” of 3 original compounds. The boundaries of the areas of application of groups are quite vague, but there are still:

• Baikal group - consisting of approx. 20 strains of bacteria and fungi. Universal, medium-strength products for composting, fertilizing, preparing plant protection products, and even for adding to livestock feed to improve digestion. It is based on strains of lactic acid bacteria from the stomachs of cattle, yeast, and actinomycetes.
• Vostok group – strong preparations from 60-80 strains. The role of photosynthetic bacteria and actinomycetes has been enhanced. There is an expressed focus on the reclamation of fairly permeable, highly depleted soils (sand, sandy loam, weathered carbonate soils, ordinary garden soil).
• Gumat EM group – potency below average. There are usually less than 20 strains in the composition, but there are always humates. They are focused on anaerobic composting (see below), attracting soil formers and structuring nutritious, but dense, heavy and/or unkempt soils - virgin soil, new soil, alluvial (meadow), abandoned areas overgrown with weeds.
• Homemade EO preparations from improvised means are weak, the composition is random, but they are suitable for accelerating the maturation of compost and/or saving nitrogen fertilizers.

What Baikal EM can do

The drug Baikal EM is the most tested in practice and the methodology for its use has almost developed. It does not work miracles, but it allows for at least 3 years of monoculture in the same area with an increase or at least without loss of productivity and soil fertility; results for potatoes of 3 varieties in Central Russia are given in the table:

Anyone who has tried to plan their 6 or even 20 acres for a more or less correct turnover of crops will appreciate it. For more information about the use of the drug Baikal EM-1, see the video:

Video: about the use of Baikal EM-1

The concentrated preparation Baikal EM-1 is used to prepare the trace. compositions:

1. Basic (main) EM solution, or EM preparation, for fertilizing watering and other purposes.
2. EM extract to save on purchased concentrate.
3. EM-5 – preventive protection against diseases and pests.
4. EM-urgases are biofertilizers and cleaning agents made from kitchen waste.

Base solution

To prepare the basic solution of Baikal EM, you need soft, non-chlorinated water. It will come from rainwater or settled water from natural reservoirs, wells or springs with a hardness of no higher than 12-14 German degrees. You cannot dechlorinate water and reduce its hardness by boiling: there must be some dissolved oxygen in the water. As a last resort, lower a sprayer from an aquarium compressor into a container with water cooled below +15 degrees to the bottom and blow through the water at full air supply for a day or more.

The next point is nutritional seeding. It is prepared before the concentrate is added to the water. The best option– a mixture of fructose and sucrose; This is jam syrup (without berries). Molasses made from white beet sugar (pour water into a glass of sugar to the top and wait until everything is completely liquefied) is somewhat worse; molasses, made from yellowish cane sugar, is almost equivalent to fruit molasses. IN bee honey quite a lot of lactose and there are antibiotics. If honey is used for priming, then prepare it for 3 days, adding 1/3 of the required amount of honey to the water every day. The last sweetening with honey is carried out no earlier than one day before the administration of the concentrate. The fructose primer can be introduced, stirred, and the concentrate can be added immediately. It is advisable to leave the pure sucrose seed for half an hour to an hour before introducing the concentrate. After its introduction, the solution is left in a dark, warm place overnight to mature. The rate of administration of the concentrate is 10 ml per 1 liter of water. If you purchased a branded 30 ml bottle, you need to prepare 3 liters of sweetened water, because the concentrate is not stored in an opened container. The base solution is stored for a season in a tightly closed glass container without access to air, just like a homemade concentrate, see below. For more information on how to prepare Baikal EM-1 from concentrate, see the video guide:

Video: preparing Baikal EM-1 from concentrate

Homemade Baikal

The main secret of the original Baikal EO concentrate is the composition of the herbal infusion into which EO spores are sown. As far as one can judge from available publications, it has not been completely declassified by the manufacturers. The unique natural conditions of the Baikal region are probably also important. However, it is quite possible to make a basic EM solution that acts similarly to Baikal EM with your own hands, using a proprietary concentrate as a seed. The essence of the technology is this: EMs are allowed to multiply in a herbal infusion and put their community on the brink of survival. EOs die off, leaving spores, which are the “dormant” new solution; it can be stored for a season.

Herbs for infusion

The collection of herbs for infusion can be taken as follows:

• stinging nettle (stinging, not “deaf”) in bloom (yellow catkins hanging, dusty);
• chamomile (which does not have a corolla of petals);
• valerian officinalis;
• young burdock (not yet started to flower);
• plantain;
• tansy;
• yarrow;
• red clover:
• peppermint;
• creeping wheatgrass;
• quinoa.

Chopped green herbs are used in equal proportions by volume. You can’t use all the ingredients (any 3-4 is enough), keeping the proportions. For example, if you need 30 liters of green mass and have all the herbs, take 3 liters of each; if there are only 5 - 6 liters each; There are only 3 - 10 liters each.

Equipment

The next thing to take care of is the fermentation reactor and a container with a water seal for maturation. Reactor - a new, clean plastic 20-50 liter barrel with a sealed lid; Once the need has passed, it can be washed and used for another purpose, incl. for food purposes. The gas outlet of the water seal will need to be adapted to the lid, see below.

The main condition for long-term storage of the finished composition is the complete absence of air access. During the preparation of the extract, the gases released by the ripening mass must also be removed, otherwise the container may simply burst. During the maturation of the mass, gases must also be released, preventing air from being sucked back into the reactor, otherwise the extract will suffocate with oxygen (yes, yes, anaerobic EMs work there at the 2nd and next stages of fermentation) and rot. The gases released have a faint sourish silage smell that is not exactly unpleasant, but inappropriate in residential premises, so the mass is allowed to ripen in 2 ways.

The first (pos. A in the figure on the right) is troublesome and produces an extract of somewhat worse quality, but is suitable for residential premises and allows you to prepare the drug in small containers. It is similar to the method used to open wine bottles without a corkscrew, but in this case it uses not a hook made from a paper clip, but a thin needle from an old medical syringe with a metal cannula. If the drug is being prepared, the containers (see below) are filled similarly to large dishes, but the branded concentrate and sugar seed are dosed in drops (1 ml = 15-20 drops) or with a medical insulin syringe. The reacted starter (see below) is poured into bottles literally up to the neck. A needle is inserted under the cork (rubber, not cork!) with a bevel towards the glass and the cork is pushed into the neck until the starter flows out of the needle. The cannula of the needle, so that the ferment is not pumped into the air, is tightly plugged with a piece of a school eraser cut in advance and ground in place (the drawing eraser will not rub in). Every day, in the morning and evening, the plug is removed and the accumulated gas is released. The concentrate prepared in this way is taken instead of the branded one (see below) in a 2:1 ratio by volume.

Note: If there is only one suitable needle, it must be inserted each time between the cork and the neck to release the gas, but with the bevel towards the rubber and the tip towards the glass so that it does not dig into the cork.

According to the second method, no significant pressure of accumulating gases is created and the composition matures without interference. Supervision of the container is needed daily or less often (until the end of ripening), and the needle is suitable from a disposable syringe. The design of the installation for preparing EO concentrate in this case is quite similar to a wine fermenter with a water seal, pos. B in Fig. Use a needle to pierce the cork through so that only the very bevel with the tip protrudes, and clean it with a thin wire. Cork, as before. case, push until the needle starts to flow. Then a soft PVC tube (or from a blood transfusion kit) is pulled onto the cannula, a weight is attached to its opposite end (can be covered with plasticine) and lowered into the water seal. The end of ripening is noticeable immediately when gas evolution ceases. Concentrate from a fermenter with a water seal is used instead of the proprietary 1:1.

Preparation

You can prepare the EO extract using long “winter” and shortened “summer” methods. Winter extract can be used as a starter for traces. batches instead of branded concentrate; depending on the quality of the water and the composition of the herbal collection for infusion, up to 5-6 times. Summer extract simply provides several times more fertilizer and/or starter to accelerate the maturation of compost from the same amount of purchased concentrate.

Winter extract

To prepare the winter extract, a hole for the rubber stopper is cut out in the threaded lid using a compass drill. By the way, a tip for a wheelchair or crutch is very suitable for it (see figure on the right; sold in pharmacies). Such a plug will never fall inside, and the gas outlet needle in it will never become clogged, because exits into the cavity of the plug itself. The tip for the plug should be rubber - silicone quickly becomes unusable in an acidic environment.

Next, the barrel is filled 2/3 with chopped grass, slightly squashing, but not trampling down tightly. Then add water to cover the grass. Separately, the sugar seed (see above) is diluted in 0.5 liters of water and poured into the reactor barrel with a smooth circular motion. After 2-5 minutes, a dose of freshly prepared Baikal EM base solution is administered at the rate of 10 ml per 1 liter of mixture.

Now you need to screw the standard lid of the barrel tightly, insert a stopper into it and place the fermenter in a dark, warm room; The fermentation temperature should be kept between 16-25 degrees Celsius. Then we make a water seal (see above) and periodically visit the fermentation room. If by the end of the 2nd week the gas has not flowed, remove the hose from the needle and clean it with a thin wire. There is still no gas - alas, the batch is spoiled; most often due to bad water. 2-3 days after the end of gas evolution, we remove the plug for a short time, take a sample of the solution and check its acidity with indicator paper; should be pH=(3.3-3.6). We smell the liquid - it should smell like ripe silage. If both are yes, cool the container to 10-12 degrees and carefully pour the infusion into bottles under a cork without air, see above. We dry the sediment in the shade - it will be used as light spring organic fertilizer.

Summer accelerated

Summer extract is prepared in an amount of 20-30 l, i.e. The 50-liter barrel is half filled. Herbal mixture - from any plants, incl. garden weeds. Before placing the herbs, insert a large black garbage bag (at least 50 liters) into the container and place the herbs in it. After filling with water and seasoning with sugar and sourdough as before. In this case, the neck of the bag is twisted and wrapped. Place a wooden circle on the closed bag or, if the neck of the barrel is narrow, several sticks, and apply pressure from a couple of bricks, etc.

The container with the mixture is placed in the shade in a place where it is not colder than +25 and not hotter than +35. starting from the 3rd day, the oppression is removed daily, the neck of the bag is unscrewed and the gas is released. Be careful, turn away so you don't get splashed in your face! When the gas emission subsides, the acidity is checked at the same time. Has dropped to 3.7 and below - the solution can be bottled for storage, as before. case. The sludge is also suitable for fertilizer. The solution is used instead of the proprietary base 2:1 during the season.

Note: How else to “multiply” Baikal EM for fertilizer, see video:

Video: preparing a large amount of EM extract from one bottle of Baikal

And about the preparation of EO concentrate according to the method of Yu. I. Slashchilin:

Video: DIY EM fertilizer according to Slashchalin’s recipe

Baikal for watering

The basic solution of Baikal EM for fertilizing irrigation is used in the following. concentrations:

1. For application to bare soil before winter or early spring 2-3 weeks before planting/sowing – 1:100. Application rate – 3-4 liters per 10 square meters. m;
2. For fertilizing irrigation into pre-moistened soil - 1:1000 for herbaceous (including green) and 1:500 for shrubs and trees. Consumption 2-3 liters per 1 sq. m ridges or trunk circle. When watering at the root and in the holes, the consumption is 50 ml per seedling bush, 100-150 ml per young bush and 150-200 ml per adult;
3. For fertilizer during rain (watering during rain has a growth stimulating effect) - 1:20 for heavy rain and 1:50 for light rain. The expense is the same. Irrigation in the rain after a thunderstorm has just died down is especially effective due to the abundance of air ions in the rain moisture;
4. For fertilizing seedlings and potted plants– 1:2000. Fertilizer watering is carried out once every 1-2 weeks instead of usual.

Note: For indoor plants that are in the dormant phase, fertilizing watering is not carried out!

The amount of the drug required to prepare the required volume of working solution of a given concentration is determined from the table:

The solution must be used within a day. The frequency of watering is 2-4 weeks, depending on the weather and the condition of the plants (fertilizer watering is carried out instead of the usual one). The minimum interval between watering with EM is 1 week.

Irrigation with cultivation

Fertilizer irrigation with EM preparations can be combined with soil cultivation. On poor loose soils, Voskhod EM is more suitable for this, and on dense nutrient soils, Gumat EM is more suitable, however, in the conditions of an ordinary summer cottage or garden plot, Baikal EM and its winter extract give almost the same effect.

On poor soils

On poor permeable soils it is still warm, but after harvesting they provoke the friendly germination of weeds. Their young shoots are mowed down and nitrogen organic matter (manure, bird droppings, humus, compost) is added at 30-50 g per 1 sq. m. m and all together are buried to a depth of no more than 5-7 cm. It is impossible to dig, plow and cultivate with the formation turnover, because The leading role in this case is played by aerobic EMs. After “pulling”, sprinkle with a base solution in a concentration of 1:10 (this is where homemade summer extract comes in handy - there is a lot of it and it is cheap) and mulch with dense mulch (sawdust, chopped straw, crushed shavings) to keep the soil moist longer. If on the next a year there are problems with weeds again, the treatment is repeated; possible from year to year.

On heavy ground

On tight fertile soils occupied by biocenoses of persistent weeds, they are mowed down after harvesting along with the tops of cultivated plants. The mowing is removed for composting, burning, etc. complete destruction (!). The soil is loosened with a rake or surface cultivator to a depth of 5-7 cm and moistened to a minimum, as long as it is not dry. Then - spray watering with a base solution of 1:100, 3-4 liters per 1 sq. m. m. If after harvesting the heat lingers, the treatment is repeated every 2-3 weeks, but no later than the same 2-3 weeks before the cold weather. In the spring, all procedures are repeated when the weeds begin to sprout. Maximum in the 3rd year (if the soil is a chernozem deposit), the soil becomes well structured, freed from weeds, and the fight against them comes down to the destruction of individual specimens from the planted seeds.

EM composting

Nutrient compost is prepared using any EO preparations, incl. homemade anaerobic and aerobic methods. Aerobic EM compost is prepared faster, in 1.5-2 months. You can add it to the soil within a month in the inter-row spaces so that at least 7-10 cm of soil remains to the roots of the plants. Weed seeds, embryos of pests and human pathogens (for example, helminth eggs) “burn” in aerobic compost (see below), but up to 30% of nitrogen or more, as well as almost all phosphorus, potassium meso- and microelements are lost. Anaerobic EM compost will be ready for use. season and it requires clean raw materials, but it is a complete fertilizer, which also structures the soil.

Anaerobic EM compost

We dig a hole approx. 1x1 m depth 50-60 cm; preferably to dense underlying rock - clay, loam. On powerful humus it is better to put it in a hole and trample it clay castle thickness 10-15 cm; Any clay will do.

The waste to be composted is placed in the pit, compacted tightly, in layers of 10-15 cm and sprinkled with the same layers of earth as for preparing ordinary compost. Each soil layer is watered with 2-3 liters of a base solution or homemade extract. The last layer should be earthen and be flush with the edges of the pit. After loading, the pit is covered with film with a removal of approx. 30-40 cm to the sides. The wings of the film are loaded with fragments of bricks, etc., and all together they are covered with earth on top so that a pile is formed, also 30-40 cm high. Compost from the spring loading pit will be ready in the fall for application before winter; autumn is also on track for autumn. year.

Note: For spring and delayed application, anaerobic EM compost can be left in the pit for up to 3 years, but under no circumstances should it be opened! Compost from the opened pit must be used in the current season!

Aerobic EM composting

To obtain high-quality disinfected aerobic EM compost, daily monitoring of the temperature of the compost heap is required. In the old days it was made with a wooden stake: it was stuck into the middle of the pile, taken out every day and the end felt. But the result will be much better if, instead of a stake, you insert a metal tube welded at one end: an ordinary household thermometer is lowered into it on a cord, held for 10-15 minutes, taken out and checked the temperature. Also, to obtain definitely disinfected compost, the composition of the waste for composting should include at least 20-30% of fresh cattle manure or poultry manure. But under no circumstances should you put in pig manure or, excuse me, human feces! They do not heat well, and the likelihood of spreading infection is very high!

The diameter of the aerobic compost heap is 1.2-1.5 m. The outside temperature during the formation of the heap should not be lower than +22-23 degrees. In the area under the pile, at least 5-6 wooden poles or pipe scraps are laid out along the radii with the ends inward, with the ends toward the center. A loose layer of straw or shavings 15-25 cm thick is laid on the poles/pipes. This is air drainage; Without it, you won’t be able to make good, harmless compost. Composting waste and soil are laid out on the drainage layer by layer, as before. case, but the layers are left loose, not compacted, and gradually tapered so that the heap turns out to be a conical height of 0.9-1 m. The heap is watered and after 2-4 hours, when it settles, sprinkled with a layer of earth 20-25 cm deep. The thermometer tube is inserted into the top of approx. half the height of the pile.

Temperature control begins next. day. If the pile has warmed up inside overnight by no more than 3-5 degrees above the outside temperature, it (the pile) is carefully turned, lifting the poles one by one. If in 3-4 days it has not risen to +60 – quick compost it didn’t work out, and the pile will have to be left to mature for at least a year. If the temperature rises above +65, the pile needs to be sprayed with water, otherwise the loss of nutrients will be excessively large. If rain is expected, stretch the film over the pile on the poles, without covering it tightly.

Note: Experienced gardeners determine the state of ripening compost using a thermometer using steam over the pile.

When the temperature inside the heap drops to +34-35 degrees, it is dug up with a pitchfork, trying not to disturb the drainage, and during digging, a basic solution of EM is added at the rate of 2-3 per cubic meter. m of settled heap; How to calculate the volume of a pyramid, see your school geometry textbook. When the temperature inside the heap drops to a level 2-3 degrees below the outside, or to +28, compost can be added to the soil.

Note: You can water the contents with a basic solution of EM to speed up ripening. compost bin, but in this case the compost will turn out to be ordinary, only faster.

EM for pests and diseases

The drug Baikal EM-5 is used as a preventative against plant diseases and pests. Its composition (in order of components introduced):

• Pure soft dechlorinated water (preferably distilled) – 600 ml;
• Molasses or syrup (see above) – 100 ml;
• Table alcohol vinegar 9% - 100 ml;
• Medical grain alcohol 96% – 40 ml or 70% “for injections” – 55 ml;
• Basic solution of Baikal EM concentrate – 100 ml.

Before administration, add water up to 100 ml to a given volume of alcohol. Instead of alcohol, you can add 100 ml of Russian or Finnish 40-proof white vodka (without additives or flavorings) or English gin of the same strength. Polish 50-proof vodka is not suitable; it is not sufficiently purified from fusel oils for this purpose. Schnapps, Dutch gin and vodka bols are also not suitable - they are made not from grain, but from potatoes. Rice-based spirits (sake, Vietnamese vodka, etc.) are also unsuitable. Like whiskey, cognac, armagnac, Italian grape vodka grappa and other alcoholic drinks of fruit origin, they contain tannins.

The resulting EM-5 concentrate is poured into a liter or two 0.5 liter bottles glass bottles, add distilled water up to the top and plug it with plugs with gas outlets from a medical needle, see above. Fermentation containers are placed in a dark place with a temperature of +28-35 degrees. At the end of gas evolution (this is for 3-4 days), the gas outlets are removed. The finished concentrate is stored in a cool, dark place for up to 6 months.

For use, EM-5 concentrate is diluted immediately before use with water or an infusion of plants that have pesticide properties: leaves (feathers) of garlic, walnut plantain, aloe vera or vera, red hot pepper tops, carrots, yarrow herb; You can use mixtures of components in equal parts in any combination. The herbs are passed through a meat grinder, poured with warm water 2:1 by volume and infused at room temperature for 2-3 days in a sealed container in a dark place. To avoid fermentation, the finished infusion is stored in the refrigerator in the vegetable compartment (avoiding freezing).

Plants are regularly sprayed with Baikal EM-5 1-2 times a week from the beginning of bud break. Preventive dilution of the concentrate 1:500. The application rate is controlled visually: until a continuous film of moisture appears on the leaves. When the first signs of disease or pests appear, the concentration is increased to 1:300 and spraying is carried out daily. It doesn’t help - the concentration is increased to 1:100 and 2-3 treatments are carried out. The effect is not visible - well, it's time to use pesticides.

Note: herbal infusion can be added to the water of the spray solution in any proportion.

What is EM Urgas?

Urgas EO or EO liquid is a specific product of EO composting kitchen waste, which cannot be obtained in any other way; It is a concentrate of waste products of essential oils, but does not contain their spores. The shelf life of EM urgasy in tightly closed containers is over 3 years. Urgasu EM is added to the soil as a liquid fertilizer instead of a base solution diluted 1:1000 (1 ml per 1 liter of water for potted crops or 1 tbsp per bucket of water for greenhouses and open ground). Irrigation of aerobic EM compost after burnout of EM urgasa significantly increases its nutritional value and somewhat (by about a week) accelerates the maturation of the heap. Concentrated Urgasa EO can be poured into clogged sewers to clean, remove plaque inside pipes, plumbing fixtures, etc. Diluted 1:10-1:100 - add to water for washing especially heavily soiled items.

Schemes for obtaining and using EM urgasy are shown in Fig. An EM container for this can be made from a plastic bucket with a tight lid, water tap, an insert for washing and a garbage bag with 5-6 punctured holes. The container must be kept in a non-residential area at a temperature not lower than +15 degrees, because The smell it emits when reloading is quite noticeable.

Before loading into the container, the waste is crushed into pieces of 2-3 cm. The crushed waste is placed in layers of the same thickness into the container. Each layer is sprayed from a spray bottle with a basic solution of Baikal EM or any other EM preparation. After spraying, the neck of the bag is twisted, wrapped, tightened with an elastic band, and pressed with pressure on a wooden or plastic mug. EM Urgas is drained approx. once a week as it accumulates. Urgas EM is stored in a tightly closed, gas-tight, chemically inert container (plastic bottles can be used). For more information on preparing EO preparations from kitchen waste, see the video selection:

Video: DIY EM preparations from kitchen waste

About EM without seed

The germs of effective microorganisms for the preparation of agricultural preparations are found in many types of agricultural products. Activating and propagating them on suitable nutrient media at home is not difficult. The resulting preparations are suitable for the same purposes as branded ones, except for use as plant protection products and obtaining EM urgasy. However, the species composition of “improvised” EOs is limited to 1-2-4 strains, which, of course, are not cultivated pure on special equipment. As a result, completely homemade EO preparations are significantly less effective than industrial production. Therefore, in conclusion, we simply give video recipes on how to prepare EO preparations with your own hands from improvised means at home:

Video: simple recipes for EM drugs using improvised means

Supporters of organic and natural farming argue: in order not to disturb the ecological balance in your area, it is better to prepare your own “concentrate” of microbes that are already well adapted to both the soil and the climate. Use one or more proven recipes.

Recently, gardeners and gardeners are increasingly using preparations of effective microorganisms (EM) on their plots. They represent a special group of microorganisms: fermenting fungi, lactic acid and photosynthetic bacteria, which accelerate the decomposition of organic matter, improve soil microflora, and help protect cultivated plants from diseases.

Recipe 1. Feeding-infusion with effective microorganisms

First, the mash is prepared: a pinch of yeast and 5 tablespoons of sugar are dissolved in three liters of warm water. This mixture ferments for two or three days, and then is added to a two-hundred-liter barrel. To prevent this homemade EM preparation from turning sour prematurely, it must be stored in the refrigerator before use. In addition to three liters of mash, the following is placed in a 200-liter container:

A shovel of wood or broken ash;

Half a bucket of manure or droppings;

Bucket of rotten straw or leaf litter;

A shovel of humus, compost or regular garden soil;

Shovel of sand;

A liter of whey, kefir or yogurt.

The contents of the barrel are infused together for a week. Sometimes the infusion needs to be stirred. When used as a top dressing, the enriched EO infusion is diluted with water at least twice.

Recipe 2. Herbal infusion with effective microorganisms

Efficient organisms speed up cooking organic fertilizer from grass. A 250-liter barrel is filled one third with crushed weeds with the addition of medicinal herbs: plantain, St. John's wort, tansy, chamomile, yarrow, etc. Half a bucket of ash and two buckets of compost are poured into the same barrel. Then it is filled with water. This entire nutrient mixture is infused for a couple of weeks, then diluted in a ratio of 1:10.

A liter of the resulting solution is poured under each bush or tree as a top dressing.

Recipe 3. EM preparation for legumes

If you grow a lot of legumes in your summer cottage, then to increase productivity you can prepare a special growth enhancer based on effective microorganisms. To do this, one kilogram of soil is mixed with a tablespoon of lime or chalk and a glass of sand. well moistened, transferred to a bucket and leveled.

A handful of peas or beans is boiled in two glasses of water and cooled. The result is a nutrient solution.

All white and pink nodules from the roots 5-6 flowering plants peas are washed from the soil and kneaded well in a cup with a wooden spoon or masher. All this is mixed with a third of a glass of nutrient solution and poured onto the prepared soil. The bucket is covered with film, in which several holes have been previously made, and placed in warm darkness.

In a week, the soil from the bucket will turn into an effective EM preparation for planting peas. It should be dried in the shade and stored until spring. During planting, soaked pea seeds are rolled in the preparation and immediately sown in the garden bed. Using this principle, you can prepare a “growth stimulator” for any legume crop.

Recipe 4. EM-sourdough for rapid re-melting of manure and compost heaps

To speed up the digestion of manure or the maturation of compost, dilute half a packet of dry yeast in a glass of warm water with sugar, add one glass of any fermented milk product with live bacteria (kefir, yogurt). Poke a hole in a pile of manure or compost and pour the mixture into it. After about two months, fresh manure is completely rotted, and compost can be used for its own purposes after two weeks.

For vigorous growth of cucumbers, eggplants or peppers, place a bucket of manure diluted with water and this “ferment” inside the greenhouse - the release of a large amount of carbon dioxide will stimulate plant growth.

Recipe 5. Effective microorganisms for making home compost

If you have kombucha in your kitchen and drink its infusion to improve digestion, know that you are consuming effective microorganisms. Infusion of kombucha with weak sweet tea or herbal decoction, diluted at the rate of 10 ml. per 1 liter of water, you can spill kitchen waste to make compost, and also add it to organic fertilizers for indoor plants and seedlings.

Recipe 6. EM preparation with rice water

To prepare this preparation of active microorganisms you will need: rice, water, milk and sugar. Pour 1/4 cup of rice into a glass of water and stir vigorously until the water turns whitish. Then the water is poured into a small jar - this is what is useful for preparing EM liquid; rice can also be used in the kitchen. Rice water is infused in a warm, dark room for 5-7 days. Then filter and mix with milk in proportions of 1:10. Leave for another 5-7 days. After a week, the curd mass will separate from the whey, this mass is removed from above, and a tablespoon of sugar is added to the whey. The EM drug is ready! It can be stored in a cool place for 6-12 months.

To activate microorganisms, the homemade concentrate is diluted with water at room temperature in a ratio of 1:20 and used for its intended purpose.

Where else can you use infusions with effective microbes?

For spraying seed potatoes before planting;

For soaking seeds;

For treating plant leaves to prevent diseases;

For processing greenhouses and vegetable stores;

For tillage before sowing and after harvesting;

For processing country toilets.

The only thing you need to firmly remember is that effective microorganisms can be used in warm (not lower than +18°C) but cloudy weather, since bacteria, firstly, are afraid of direct sunlight, and secondly, at low temperatures they fall into a kind of suspended animation: they stop growing and reproducing.