Guinea pigs are herbivorous, well-fed pets. They constantly chew fresh hay, green herbs, vegetables and fruits with great pleasure. In their natural habitat, wild relatives of cute rodents receive all the necessary nutrients, vitamins and microelements from the food they eat. When keeping furry animals at home, it is necessary to add vitamins to the animal’s diet for guinea pigs. Lack of vitamins in the body leads to scurvy, seizures, lack of coordination, and infertility. Possible growth stunting, weakened immunity and a deterioration in the general health of your beloved friend.

Unlike wild rodents, the body of domestic guinea pigs lacks the enzyme I-gluconolactone oxidase, which is necessary for the synthesis of ascorbic acid from glucose. This physiological feature makes it impossible to independently produce vitamin C, so it is necessary to give your guinea pig ascorbic acid throughout its life.

A lack of ascorbic acid in the animal’s body causes scurvy, which is manifested by the following characteristic symptoms:

• lethargy, inactivity, decreased appetite;
• lameness, cautious gait, difficulty moving;
• swelling of the joints;
• dishevelment and hair loss;
• loosening and loss of teeth, bleeding gums;
• bleeding under the skin, saliva, feces;
• , general weakness.

In the absence of vitamin C in the body pet the pathology ends in the death of the furry little animal.

A pregnant guinea pig has a higher need for vitamins

Provide for your favorite animal required quantity Vitamin C in the spring-summer period can be increased by increasing the content of fresh green grass, fresh vegetables and fruits in the diet. IN winter period It is necessary to give guinea pigs synthetic ascorbic acid. Regardless of the season, pregnant and lactating females, growing young animals, sick and weakened animals need an increased dosage of vitamin C.

Products containing vitamin C

Ascorbic acid for guinea pigs is given in a dosage of 10-30 mg/kg daily; pregnant, sick and weakened pets need 35-50 mg/kg every day. Organic vitamin C is found in large quantities in the following foods:

• bell pepper;
• tomato;
• broccoli;
• spinach;
• kiwi;
• parsley;
• mint;
• basil;
• apple;
• fennel;
• nettle;
• burdock;
• dandelion;
• branches coniferous trees, raspberries and black currants with leaves.

The listed products are available to the owners of guinea pigs in the summer, therefore, with sufficient introduction of juicy fresh grass, vegetables and fruits into the diet of small animals, additional administration of synthetic vitamin C is not required.

It is necessary to pay Special attention places where herbs are collected, lawns and parks, diarrhea, intoxication and death.

One source of vitamin C for guinea pigs is dandelion leaves.

Synthetic vitamin C is added to dry kibble foods by responsible manufacturers, but ascorbic acid is destroyed after three months from the production date. It is recommended to buy ready-made food fresh and store it for no more than a month in a dark, dry place. high humidity and air temperature contribute to the accelerated destruction of the beneficial vitamin.

How to properly give vitamin C to a guinea pig

Synthetic vitamin C is given to pet rodents in liquid form or in tablet form. autumn-winter period. Tablet forms are sold in veterinary stores or regular human pharmacies. When purchasing ascorbic acid, you must carefully study the composition: the drug must contain pure vitamin C without impurities. It is highly not recommended to use multivitamins to provide an animal’s body with vitamin C. Hypervitaminosis is possible with the development of undesirable complications.

Vitamin C for humans is available in a dosage of 100 mg, so a quarter of a tablet daily is enough for your beloved pet. The drug can be crushed and mixed with food. Some individuals happily chew on the vitamin, perceiving it as a treat. It is not recommended to dissolve vitamin C in water: a small rodent may refuse to drink acidic water. The consequence can be not only scurvy, but also dehydration.

Pure vitamin C can be given to your guinea pig in either tablet or liquid form.

The liquid preparation is sold at the pharmacy in the form of a 5% solution of ascorbic acid. The drug must be given to the small animal daily in a dosage of 0.5 ml from an insulin syringe without a needle. Adding a liquid solution of vitamin C to the drinker is also not recommended: it is impossible to control the dosage. In addition, the solution oxidizes the metal parts of the drinker, and a small rodent may refuse to drink acidified water.

Should I give my guinea pig a multivitamin?

With a balanced diet, sufficient feeding of greens, excellent appetite, good mood and physical activity, it is not recommended to give your guinea pig additional vitamin complexes.

Excess of synthetic vitamins in the body pet with insufficient nutrition. The use of vitamin supplements in guinea pigs is advisable for diseases, exhaustion, and weakened immunity. The dosage, course and type of a particular drug should be prescribed by a veterinarian.

Prevention of vitamin deficiency - more natural sources vitamin C

What vitamins do guinea pigs need to get?

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The main components of the health and longevity of a guinea pig are: proper nutrition, decent content and good care. It is believed that the greatest percentage of gilt mortality is caused by diseases gastrointestinal tract, and the reason for this is an incorrectly formulated diet, non-compliance with the diet, as well as neglect of hygienic procedures, such as thoroughly washing green and succulent feed, feeding low-quality hay, etc. So how should you feed your guinea pig, what foods should definitely be on your pet’s menu, and which are contraindicated for him?

The main components of a guinea pig's diet are high-quality grain mixtures and hay, and an important addition is juicy food (fruits, vegetables, berries), as well as green food.

Proteins, carbohydrates, fats, minerals, vitamins, and water are the basic elements necessary for the life of a rodent.

Protein is a very important nutrient. The pig should receive both plant and animal proteins, but there should be much more plant proteins.

Carbohydrates are a source of energy. Fiber is a carbohydrate and is found in plant foods.

Fats are not only sources of energy, but also play an important role in the process of cellular metabolism.

The diet should contain at least 20% proteins of plant origin, 15% coarse fibers and 4% proteins of animal origin.

Vitamins and minerals are vital, have a great impact not only on the health of the animal, but also play an important role in reproductive processes.

Do not forget that your pet must have constant access to clean water. To avoid health problems, your guinea pig should not be given regular tap water, but it is best to use filtered water, or, in extreme cases, boiled and cooled water. Some experts are inclined to believe that the water should also be settled.

Grain mixtures

Since today pet stores offer a wide range of ready-made grain mixtures for guinea pigs with different compositions, from several types of grain and interesting additives (dried vegetables and fruits), as well as vitamins and minerals, it will not be difficult to choose food for your pet. However, it is not difficult to make a mixture for daily feeding of your pet yourself by purchasing the necessary components at the agricultural market.

An invariable component in ready-made food is oats (if you make the mixture yourself, keep this in mind). But you shouldn’t limit yourself to just one type of grain; barley, wheat, lentils, corn, millet, sunflower seeds, peas and soy are also quite suitable.

Keep in mind that if you give a rodent only grain food, this can lead to vitamin deficiency, obesity, problems with the reproductive system, and diseases of the digestive system. For a balanced diet, the grain feed content in the diet should be approximately 30%.

The grain mixture is given 2 times a day - in the morning and in the evening, in such an amount that the animal eats it within 24 hours without leaving a trace. If, out of all the richness of the mixture, the pet does not want to eat a certain type of grain, then perhaps the rest of the food is enough for him, or it’s time to think about changing the food.

Fresh hay

Fresh hay, like the grain mixture, is the basis of the rodent's menu. It contains a large number of useful substances. In addition, this is an excellent tool for grinding down constantly growing teeth and maintaining their health. It must be kept in the cage at all times and it is very important that it is fresh.

Young individuals require more nutrients and vitamins. Both for feeding young animals and during the breeding season, it is best to give preference to the so-called vitamin hay.

When buying hay at a pet store, remember that a high-quality product should not have an unnatural color or a strange smell that is not similar to the usual smell of hay. The presence of dust is unacceptable in the hay; it should not be wet or rotten. And, of course, there cannot be any mold, larvae or insects in a quality product. Good hay has a pleasant smell, not musty, and free of debris and other impurities.

Sometimes rodents are offered self-collected hay immediately after mowing, but it should be remembered that such hay must be kept in a well-ventilated room and collected at least 2 months after mowing. If all conditions are not met, the pig may develop health problems, so it is better to give preference to quality products from a specialized store.

Some experts recommend feeding the rodent hay in winter, and in spring, summer and early autumn introducing green food (forbs) into the diet, while reducing the amount of hay. Observing your pet’s health and behavior will help you find a balance between these two types of food.

Additional feed

Supplementary food does not mean it is of secondary importance in the diet. It just varies depending on the season and is interchangeable.

Green food

IN summer time Green food plays a very important role.

Useful herbs

Your guinea pig will benefit from: dandelion leaves, plantain lanceolate and greater, yarrow, nettle (young leaves), carrot tops, white and meadow clover, chickweed, alfalfa, heather, sedge (young), burdock, sow thistle, hogweed, wheatgrass , sage, field sow thistle, oats, peas, sweet clover, winter rye.

In limited quantities, your pet can be given tarragon, wormwood, parsley, and dill.

In spring, grasses (especially clover and alfalfa) are rich in protein, but poor in fiber, and therefore they are given in limited quantities.

In the spring-summer period, collecting herbs will not be difficult, unlike in winter, when the solution may be to independently grow herbs on the windowsill. Or, what’s even simpler, buy ready-made special grass grown for cats at a pet store.

You cannot collect herbs near highways and highways, in the yard, in dog walking areas, or near fields that are being cultivated. by special means for pest control.

Poisonous plants

Under no circumstances should you give your pet: belladonna, poppy, celandine, lily of the valley, hemlock, elderberry, bindweed, wolfberry, iris, parsnip, crabgrass, hawthorn, horse chestnut, laurel, groundsel, ranunculus, spurge, red or purple foxglove, fireweed, scilla, oak, yew, broom, larkspur, datura.

Juicy food

Autumn and winter big role Juicy foods – vegetables and fruits – play a part in the diet. These are not just tasty and varied products, but also very healthy, rich in vitamins. But you should not give any succulent food indiscriminately, because... not all of them are suitable for a rodent. So which vegetables, fruits and berries can be given to a pig and which cannot?

Useful for shoyzun are: tomatoes, carrots, zucchini, Bell pepper, turnips, pumpkin, celery, green salad, apples, kiwi, raspberries, cherries (pitted). Cucumbers are an important dietary product, especially for obese animals.

The following succulent foods are contraindicated: red and white cabbage, radishes, beets (raw), bananas, plums. These products can lead to gastrointestinal problems (bloating, colic, diarrhea).

Guinea pigs especially love apples, lettuce, Chinese cabbage, parsley, carrots. Of all the varieties of cabbage, broccoli is the best to feed; it contains more vitamin C and it practically does not make the animal’s stomach bloat. Pears are given to pets only occasionally, as a treat. It is very important that apples and pears are completely ripe.

It is not advisable to give watermelon and melon. You can safely offer them only if you are 100% sure that they do not contain nitrates, which can lead to severe poisoning and even death of the animal.

Before giving green or succulent food, it should be washed thoroughly. warm water and dry. Fruits and vegetables are given only when they are ripe and not spoiled.

Pigs love succulent food, but they should not be given in excess. These products are given in doses, approximately 100 grams per day, so that the animal does not overeat. It is recommended to give succulent food 2 times a day, dividing the norm accordingly, for example, 2 times 50 grams.

It is very important to introduce green and succulent food into your pet’s diet gradually, observing how the body reacts to this or that food. This will help avoid digestive problems - gas formation in the intestines, constipation or diarrhea. Some vegetables or fruits may be quite suitable for one individual and be completely unsuitable for another.

What vitamins does a pig need?

A rodent's need for vitamins depends on:

• age;
• conditions of detention;
• feeding ration;
• physiological characteristics;
• animal health.

In the summer, pigs get everything essential vitamins, which are contained in sufficient quantities in green food, vegetables, fruits and berries. During winter, the rodent's body may lack vitamins and minerals. Special vitamin and mineral complexes designed for guinea pigs will help fill this deficiency. Often such additives are included in animal treats. However, it should be remembered that both a lack of vitamins and minerals and their excess can cause a number of diseases.

One of the most important vitamins for a rodent is vitamin C, which an adult animal should receive at the rate of 16 mg per 1 kg of body weight. For pregnant females, the need for vitamin C is much higher - up to 30 mg, this also applies to animals exposed to stress or with weak immunity.

Vitamin C is found in many vegetables and fruits, as well as in green succulent food. Parsley (160 mg/100 g), bell pepper (110 mg/100 g) and spinach (49 mg/100 g) are especially rich in it. In addition, vitamin C is found in apples (11 mg/100 g), cucumbers (5 mg/100 g) and carrots (4 mg/100 g).

Other important vitamins

Vitamin A is important for vision, normal reproductive and nervous system. Sources: fish oil, greens, carrots.

B vitamins regulate general metabolism, ensure normal protein, carbohydrate and fat metabolism, and are important for the health of coat and skin. Sources – grain feed, green feed, hay, young shoots of plants, sprouted grains, fish oil.

Vitamin D is involved in the growth process and ensures normal bone development. Sources: fish oil. The vitamin is synthesized by the body under the influence of ultraviolet rays.

Vitamin E provides normal work reproductive system.

Healthy treats

You can give treats to your pig, but in limited quantities and taking into account the state of her health. You can buy it at a pet store finished products for rodents, the labels of which indicate the dosage and frequency of feeding treats.

As for ordinary products, a delicious fruit or berries will be an excellent treat for your pet. Those products that we consider delicious - chocolate, candies, cookies - are strictly prohibited for animals, including rodents.

Milk, as well as low-fat cottage cheese, can be given to your pet periodically, but not often. It is useful to give dairy products to females during lactation, but they should not be abused. As for milk, it must be pasteurized or boiled; low-fat cottage cheese must be fresh. Fermented milk products should not be offered to pets. If a rodent experiences intestinal upset after eating dairy products, they should be completely abandoned.

For baked goods, you can only offer rye or wheat bread, again not often and just a little. And most importantly, the bread should be stale, not fresh. Fresh is difficult to digest and can lead to the formation of gases in the intestines and constipation.

What is good for a pig to chew?

If you want to please your pet, it is best to do it for his benefit. Considering the pig’s great desire to chew something and the need to sharpen its constantly growing teeth, you can offer it a fresh twig fruit tree- pear or apple trees, you can also give branches of birch, linden, acacia, and willow. The greatest value is from tree branches picked in June or July; it is during this period that branches can be harvested for the winter, having first washed and dried them. A sprig of rowan, picked along with berries and leaves, would be an excellent treat.

What should you not feed your pig?

Your pet should not be given:

• sweets (sweets, cookies, etc.);
• salted, smoked and spicy foods;
• meat products;
• dairy products;
• canned berries, fruits and vegetables;
• raw potatoes;
• white cabbage;
• nuts and seeds;
• eggs.

Feeding mode

Not only his health, but also his life depends on compliance with the pet’s feeding regimen. For guinea pigs, two (sometimes three) meals a day are recommended - morning and evening at the same hours. If she is pregnant, her meals should be three or four times a day.

The amount of food should be sufficient so that the pet does not feel hungry, but does not overeat. Remains of food, except hay, are removed from the cage after feeding in 2-3 hours.

Over time, each guinea pig owner will independently determine the set of products that is most suitable for his pet, and in which the animal will feel good, look healthy and active.

The guinea pig quickly gets used to the person who brings her treats and greets him with a welcoming whistle. The animal understands well where exactly all those goodies come from, which then end up in the owner’s hands, and associates the rustling of a package or the slamming of a door with the appearance of a favorite vegetable in front of its nose. A demanding whistle may immediately be heard. The pig is very observant. You can give her her favorite juicy food at a strictly defined time every day for several weeks in a row, but once you break established rule– and at the appointed time you will again hear a demanding calling whistle. How animals determine feeding time is a mystery.

In contact with

If guinea pig will receive vegetables and fruits, you can be sure that she is not at risk of vitamin C deficiency. In addition to the greens that are usually given, you can slip her a bunch of parsley tops from time to time - they contain a lot of vitamin C, and most guinea pigs eat them quite willingly.

Progressive deficiency of vitamin C leads, as in humans, to scurvy. Here is what the famous German writer and journalist Bernhard Grzimek writes about this in his book “Our Little Brothers”: “... these funny fat animals have one thing in common with us humans: they can, like us, get scurvy. True. , in their homeland, Peru, where a lot of both wild and domestic guinea pigs roam, they never suffered from such a disease. It was we, people, who awarded the unfortunate experimental animals with such a disease.” In the process of evolution, they have lost the ability to synthesize vitamin C. Symptoms of scurvy are loose teeth, and in an extremely acute form - attacks, during which the animal usually lies on its side with outstretched paws and an expression of pain on the face. In this case, the only salvation can be a strong dose of vitamin C, preferably in the form of a solution, which is given according to the instructions of a veterinarian.

Guinea pigs can be given at least 5 mg of vitamin C daily drinking water. As an approximate dose, we can recommend 1 mg of ascorbic acid per 1 ml of water. Since ascorbic acid easily enters into chemical reactions, the solution must be changed daily. When keeping a guinea pig at home, it needs an average of 20 mg of vitamin C per day.

In cases of other vitamin deficiencies, for example, those manifested by hair loss or skin allergies, it is recommended to give a multivitamin preparation daily. In addition, of course, one should strive to exclude the cause of the disease, because with proper nutrition such a problem should not arise in principle.

Already weakened animals catch cold easily. This occurs mainly when feed shortages are accompanied by incorrect definition places for a cage. When your pig catches a cold, it is necessary to: eliminate the root cause of the disease; keep the animal warm; try to strengthen his immune system by increasing the dose of vitamins.

Less dangerous, but also unpleasant, are eye inflammations caused by drafts. In this case, the first step should also be to move the animal from an unsuitable place. In addition, eye drops prescribed by a veterinarian are used.

In order not to expose your guinea pig to the danger associated with sudden changes in temperature, you can take it out onto the balcony only when the weather is really warm. This South American rodent feels best at temperatures around 20°C. Animals kept outside the home should regularly receive vitamin C in preventive doses.

Viruses and bacteria. Diseases caused by bacteria and viruses are very difficult to recognize for an inexperienced person, and in most cases, the intervention of a veterinarian is necessary to save the animal.

The most dangerous viral diseases, without a doubt, are “guinea pig pestilence” and “guinea pig paralysis.” Both have almost identical symptoms - seizures and paralysis, in particular, hind limbs. There are also many other viral diseases that are not so common, but just as dangerous. Symptoms such as shaggy, matted fur, nasal discharge, cough, diarrhea and noticeable changes in behavior may indicate viral disease.

The fundamental principle of action in the presence of any viral disease is to immediately isolate the infected animal from the rest. For there is a great danger of the spread of pestilence.

The most common disease caused by bacteria in guinea pigs is so-called pseudotuberculosis. Its outward symptom is diarrhea, leading to exhaustion and ultimately paralysis. This disease is also highly contagious and can kill an entire brood within days or weeks.

A runny nose, which can quickly turn into pneumonia, is also dangerous. The mortality rate among sick guinea pigs in this case reaches 50%.

So, as you can see, the variety of external (clinical) symptoms of infectious diseases is quite large. In addition, the same symptoms may accompany various diseases. Actions in each individual case should be determined by a veterinarian. The following symptoms should immediately raise suspicion of the disease: exudate (effusion) from the nose, purulent eyes and eyelids, disheveled hair, diarrhea, weight loss, paralysis, vomiting, heavy breathing, convulsions, obvious changes in behavior.

“Winnie the Pooh was always not averse to a little refreshment, especially at eleven in the morning, because at that time breakfast had long ended, and lunch had not yet begun.” Do you think this is only about bears?

Of all the animals we are considering, guinea pigs are among the most herbivores. Since plant foods are low in nutrition and roughage, in order to provide for oneself nutrients, Guinea pigs need to eat a lot. In nature, they consume huge amounts of fresh vegetation. When I kept my first guinea pig, it seemed to me that letting it into the garden would be the most The best way weeding - then not only will there be no weeds, but also the source of all problems - the garden.

Guinea pigs eat almost always and the concept of breakfast, lunch and dinner does not exist for them. Food should enter their intestines continuously and in small portions. This is the only way to ensure better processing of such roughage.

Greens contain a lot of ascorbic acid. Therefore, feeding on grass year-round in the South American mountains, guinea pigs have lost the ability to synthesize vitamin C (ascorbic acid)– so as not to waste the body’s precious resources. And since it is difficult for people to provide animals with the same varied diet as in nature, at home they often have to deal with vitamin C deficiency in guinea pigs. Ascorbic acid supports in good condition walls of small blood vessels, necessary for complete immune protection, has antioxidant properties. Hypovitaminosis C can externally manifest itself in swelling of the joints, minor hemorrhages on the mucous membranes, loosening and loss of teeth, bloody diarrhea and even paralysis, which can lead to death if left untreated. It must also be remembered that the clinical signs of scurvy develop rather slowly, over 7-10 days, and with a significant lack of ascorbic acid. But a gap in the immune defense can manifest itself immediately, even if there is a very small deficiency of the vitamin.

Green grass and sprouted oats are good sources of vitamin C.

Therefore, you need to take care of a constant supply of ascorbic acid with food. A guinea pig needs about 20 mg of vitamin C per day, during pregnancy - up to 30 mg. There is a lot of this vitamin in fresh greens, sweet peppers, lettuce, sprouted grains, and rose hips. In addition, guinea pigs can be given about 5 mg of vitamin C in their drinking water. You can use injectable ascorbic acid in ampoules (ask at a regular pharmacy; they don’t make it specifically for animals!). Special fertilizers and fortified foods for guinea pigs are also a good idea. It must be remembered that vitamin C is very unstable and long-term storage vegetables its content is significantly reduced. In extreme conditions: stress, illness, feeding babies, the need for it can increase 5 times. Overdose occurs very rarely and only when using pure ascorbic acid.

Guinea pigs can experience many problems due to improper feeding. Everything that we said earlier about herbivorous animals is also true for them. Guinea pigs have very long intestines because they have to break down cellulose. The total length of their intestines is more than two meters, so digestion takes a very long period of time. The passage of food through the entire intestine can take a whole week. Therefore, a sharp change in diet and feeding poor-quality feed can cause digestive upset in an animal. Violation of the intestinal microflora can lead to the death of the animal.

Plant foods are low in protein. Herbivorous animals fill this gap by partially digesting their helpers: cellulose-processing bacteria, which multiply in huge numbers in their intestines. But rodents contain bacteria in the large intestine, and food is digested mainly in the stomach and small intestine! Therefore, you should not be surprised or disgusted if you catch a pig eating its own droppings. It's just a way to get the most out of what nature gives them.

All food for guinea pigs, as for all farm animals =), is divided into coarse, juicy and concentrates.

Roughage– hay and twig food. They contain a lot of fiber and little moisture. Roughage is irreplaceable. They are necessary for grinding teeth, maintaining a viable state of cellulose-processing microflora in the intestines, and improving intestinal motility. Fiber, which cannot be digested, has an absorption effect: it “sticks” and carries away various toxic substances and pathogenic bacteria, and “cleans” the intestines. Therefore, a good supply of high-quality hay should be in the cage at all times. In addition, this is an excellent way to provide food for an ever-chewing creature during a working day or trip: hay slowly deteriorates. The main thing: do not miss the quantity!

Juicy feed- These are vegetables and greens. Since there should be quite a lot of them in a guinea pig’s diet, we can talk about them in more detail.

Green feed- This is a very large selection of different herbs. Guinea pigs can be fed dandelion, yarrow, large and lanceolate plantain, chickweed, wheatgrass, alfalfa, red and meadow clover, meadow grasses: timothy, bentgrass. Feeding greens requires some caution. You can read about this

Vegetables: all varieties of lettuce, broccoli, chicory, Chinese cabbage, parsley, Jerusalem artichoke.

Salad. All types of lettuce are suitable for guinea pigs. But this food must be very fresh: delicate lettuce leaves have the ability to spoil in a matter of hours.

Parsley – contains many vitamins, calcium salts, potassium, phosphorus, magnesium. Valued for its ability to restore strength and antiseptic properties.

Dill – contains carotene, calcium and iron salts. Good for digestion - reduces the formation of gases in the intestines. But since parsley and dill are spicy greens and contain a lot essential oils It is not advisable to give it too much.

Cucumbers are an object of adoration. Guinea pigs are crazy about them. Cucumber juice has a mild anti-inflammatory effect, so these vegetables are also beneficial for digestion. In addition, they are low in calories. Cucumbers are a good help for those who want to reduce the weight of their pig, but you should not base the diet of young animals only on them - they will not grow well.

Sweet peppers are the record holder for ascorbic acid content and also contain quite a lot of carotene. Feed in slices along with seeds.

Carrots are a very healthy food. Contains glucose, carotene, vitamins E, K, C, group B, salts of microelements. It must be remembered that at the end of winter and in early spring the amount of vitamins in carrots decreases. You can experiment and use carrots for forcing tops, which is also very useful.

Melons - melons, zucchini, pumpkin, watermelons. In terms of vitamin content, melons are not inferior to fruits, and in terms of carotene content they are superior to red carrots. They are given in slices along with the crust. Pumpkin is especially useful for guinea pigs; zucchini serves as a good dietary food (they are sometimes not eaten very willingly). Pumpkin seeds also contain many vitamins and microelements, help prevent helminthiases (worms among the people), but most importantly they are good source zinc Zinc is necessary for maintaining good skin condition, preventing skin diseases and for “boys” - for good fertility!

Tomatoes contain a large amount of vitamin C and carotene. Guinea pigs are fed only ripe tomatoes, since green tomatoes contain a toxic substance - solanine. It is destroyed when ripe.

Potatoes contain a large amount of starch, ascorbic acid, B vitamins, and potassium. Sprouted and greened potato tubers, as well as potato tops, also contain a lot of solanine. Guinea pigs need to be fed with caution not only potatoes that have turned green, but even potatoes that have simply been stored for a long time.

Cabbage is actually healthy, as it contains a lot of protein, sugar, vitamins, and most importantly organic sulfur. Sulfur is needed for good skin and coat condition. But at the same time, this vegetable can cause severe gas formation. Particularly dangerous in this regard are white cabbage, red cabbage and cauliflower. You can only give your guinea pigs the top dry leaves. white cabbage, and if you are new to “pig farming”, it is better to abandon it. Broccoli is less dangerous and can be given more.

Rowan berries. Red rowan contains a lot of carotene, and chokeberry is especially rich in ascorbic acid and rutin (vitamin P). Rutin increases the strength of blood vessels. This perfect combination, since rutin helps retain vitamin C in the body, ascorbic acid allows rutin to be more active.

Apples and pears contain a lot of sugar, carotene, and pectin. Pectins are useful because they have a strengthening effect in mild diarrhea. In addition, they are so-called prebiotics - nutrients for various beneficial lactic acid bacteria in the intestines.

Guinea pigs sometimes eat bananas, oranges, and various berries. If you are lucky, you can also feed them, but you need to make sure that these succulent feeds are not trampled and spoiled.

Concentrates- These are high-calorie foods that contain a lot of carbohydrates and protein. These include: legumes, grains, seeds, crackers, stale white bread, most ready-made food for guinea pigs (you can ignore the presence of dried fruits, nuts and corn sticks - no one will eat it anyway). Food based on grass meal is very healthy and easy to eat. Adult guinea pigs can be given 10-20 g per day. Higher need in young, pregnant and lactating gilts. They can be given up to 40 g per day. Legumes are given in crushed form and mixed with other foods: they can cause bloating.

Guinea pig food
Feeding for guinea pigs

Thus, the technology for feeding guinea pigs can be reduced to the following. Concentrates are given at night and in the morning, when leaving for work. Juicy food quickly deteriorates and must be removed as needed, so vegetables, fruits and greens must be fed when the animal is “in front of our eyes.” There should always be hay. In addition, there must be a mineral salt stone in the cage.

In pregnant guinea pigs, especially with multiple pregnancies (this can be seen by a large belly), a dangerous metabolic disorder occurs quite often due to a lack of glucose and calcium in the body. Therefore, in the last stages of pregnancy, it is advisable to give them a glucose solution and take them to a veterinary clinic so that the pig can be injected with calcium supplements. The glucose solution can be poured into the drinking bowl, but it must be changed frequently, as bacteria can quickly multiply in it. There are no problems if the pig was provided with the most varied and high-quality feeding before pregnancy. Various vitamin and mineral supplements for guinea pigs are a good help during pregnancy and lactation.

It must be remembered that guinea pigs absolutely cannot tolerate starvation. A pig that refuses food for some reason, for example due to stomatitis, quickly develops progressive exhaustion and... dehydration. Apparently, due to the fact that the pig naturally absorbs significant amounts of succulent feed, a significant part of the moisture is absorbed in the intestines. In case of intestinal dysfunction, the body begins to collect moisture from throughout the body. In this case, it is necessary to take measures: administer fluid by injection (5% glucose solution, various isotonic solutions), feed and use artificial feeding. For this purpose, you can use vegetables crushed in a mixer until pureed or vegetable-based baby food. So, for example, while caring for a sick piglet, we used Tip Top baby puree. I really liked “Carrot”, but I spat out “Pumpkin”, you bastard!

The habit of constantly chewing something can sometimes do a disservice to guinea pigs. An abundance of concentrated feed and a sedentary lifestyle leads to obesity. This pathology is quite common in domestic guinea pigs. If your tummy hangs to the ground, you need to immediately take measures to lose weight. Such “bacon piglets” lose their ability to reproduce and have reduced immunity. When developing a diet, you cannot reduce the amount of food and reduce its variety. It is necessary: ​​reduce to a minimum the amount of concentrated feed and carbohydrate vegetables (roots and tubers), increase the amount of roughage (so that you always have something to eat and not “gain grams”) and low-calorie vegetables (cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, greens, tomatoes), keep the pig busy with fitness. For the latter, you can buy a more spacious cage and let him run around the apartment more often (only under supervision). Weight should not drop sharply. Ideal for adult animals: 500-600 g for females and up to 900 g for males.

Recommended for those with a lack of vegetables and herbs in the diet, and for sick and weakened animals. You should not give it constantly, supposedly “prophylactically”, and in increased doses if the pig is healthy and gets enough vegetables and herbs. Cancellation may have a completely different effect. Healthy animals with a nutritious diet do not need to drink it!

The lack of vitamin C in a pig’s diet leads to the fact that it grows and develops poorly, its immunity decreases, and it becomes susceptible to diseases. That’s why succulent food is so important in the pigs’ diet, especially grass, greens and vegetables rich in this vitamin.
Vitamin C is everywhere– hay, grass, branches, greens, vegetables, fruits, berries. Just look at the wild relatives of guinea pigs, which also do not synthesize this vitamin: in nature, no one adds anything to them. Animals get everything they need from plant foods (+ by repeatedly eating feces).

You can’t add vitamin C to the drinker for three reasons:

What about adding to water? lemon juice or rosehip infusion: in principle, this does not cause any harm. However, the animal may refuse to drink the flavored water. Therefore, this can only be done when there is access to fresh, clean water, i.e. the second drinker without impurities. You need to replace water with and without impurities daily!

Giving a couple of times a week, with a meager diet, for the purpose of “prevention” is pointless. This vitamin is consumed very quickly by the body (within a couple of hours) and has no ability to accumulate. Therefore, it can only be replenished effectively with food that the pig consumes in large quantities and regularly.
Vitamin C from ampoules is a synthetic vitamin - just ascorbic acid and nothing more. Natural vit. C obtained from food also contains bioflavonoids, i.e. a whole complex of vitamin C, which makes it much more necessary and effective.

Thus, desoldering vit. Only a sick, weakened animal can do this.
Dosage: ascorbic acid (required 5%) is taken into the mouth from an insulin syringe without a needle, 1 ml/day (0.5 ml for babies) for 7-10 days.

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!!!Avoid multivitamins and giving vitamins without examination and prescription by a dentist!!!
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A little education about synthetics: all vitamins for animals are synthetic. You will not find a single manufacturer that produces organic (natural) vitamins for animals. It is not customary for smaller brothers to do something that is rare among the human pharmaceutical industry.
Instead of absorbing an organic vitamin, the animal’s body loses it, and its place is taken by a synthetic one, which by its nature cannot react with other organic components, does not fulfill its function and remains inside as a highly oxidizing toxin. With a lack of water (use of a drinking bowl (no matter how much the pig drinks, it still does not satisfy its need for liquid), lack of succulent food) and other certain conditions, it is not excreted, and in some cases even becomes a carcinogen.
Organic vitamins cannot be toxic, because... are absorbed exactly in the amount the body needs. The excess is simply eliminated naturally. Inorganic vitamins are violence against the body, because it cannot refuse them on its own (forced supply of synthetics against selective eating behavior), and withdrawal requires conditions that it cannot provide.

The animal’s body itself knows when and which vitamin it needs more. At the same time, when consuming organic vitamins (with food, respectively), there is no threat of overdose. After all, nowhere in nature are there labels on herbs or fruits indicating the maximum amount of a particular herb you can eat per day. The animal’s body intuitively consumes those foods that are needed at the moment (that’s why a varied diet is needed, where there is a selective method of food consumption, and this is what determines the change in the animal’s taste or the NOT consumption of certain vegetables/fruits/plants at the moment).
All organic matter is excreted naturally in case of excess intake. Therefore, you can eat as much food as you like without fear of an excess of vitamins and microelements.

Let’s take everyone’s favorite “vitamin C” (in fact, it’s ascorbic acid, not vitamin C (i.e. L-ascorbic acid is the only biologically active isomer for the body)), which “treats EVERYTHING!” (“in any unclear situation, take your vitamin C”). Organic vitamin is able to penetrate into the cell. Synthetic vitamin C is not capable. Organ. Vitamin C, entering the body, takes an oxygen molecule, “puts it in a taxi” and delivers it inside the cell. Synthet. doesn't do this. Synthet. Vitamin C is the complete opposite of organic: it will be called “ascorbic acid”. Ascorbic acid does not exist in plants, grass, fruits, animals, because it is an exclusively laboratory-created acid that is an artificial, simplified form of natural vitamin C.

The use of synthetics leads to the fact that the amount of ballast and artificial chemicals in the body increases, causing irreparable harm to the body. Due to their inferiority, synthetic vitamins are absorbed by an average of 1-5%. A small part is excreted in the urine, and the entire remaining “tail” settles in the body: in the liver, kidneys, joints, and blood vessels. It is this fact that leads to the opposite consequences - it does not prevent, it loads the cell even more, aggravates the situation and causes the body to get sick more often and with more severe diseases. According to American and Finnish scientists, synthetic vitamins not only do not increase immunity (which, in principle, cannot be “raised” and “strengthened”), but on the contrary, they reduce it and increase the incidence of diseases by 19%, incl. and oncology (these are studies conducted, of course, on people).