A private house that is not equipped with a sewerage system is not very convenient for living, especially in cold weather. You have to wash in a basin and run to the toilet in the rain and frost. But what should a person do who bought an estate that is not equipped with such benefits of civilization? And he will only have to solve a couple of questions:

• Install sewerage inside the house.
• Install an external drainage system.

In this article we will take a closer look at the main methods of laying sewerage in private property. The types of waste systems and some recommendations for their construction will be presented and described.

general information

If the housing is located in locality, which is equipped with a central sewerage system, then it will be enough to issue a package permitting documents for connection, create an insertion plan, as well as a diagram according to which pipes and sanitary installations will be placed, and produce the entire volume necessary work. But if there is no central line, then the situation becomes much more complicated, and the list of issues that will have to be resolved becomes much longer. First, you need to decide what type it will be autonomous sewerage for a private house:

• septic tank;
• storage pit;
• filtration well.

Secondly, what will be the volume of the container in which the wastewater is collected. It will depend on the number of people using the sewer system and its type. Third, determine the type. What will it be internal or free-flow? Fourthly, where the local facility that collects or purifies wastewater will be located. Now let’s look at the solution to these issues in order.

How is sewerage installed inside buildings in private houses?

This issue is easier to solve than others. New technologies allow placement regardless of the distance to sewer pipes. And if it is impossible to drain the wastewater by gravity, you can use a device that provides forced drainage (special installation). This option has many positive aspects:

Which one is better to use?

To make a sewer system in a private house, the best option is plastic pipes gray. If you plan to hide them in a solid wall, it is better to connect them using welding or a press fitting. Such pipes have several important positive qualities:

1. They are not subject to corrosion.
2. Plaque does not accumulate on their inner walls.
3. The service life of such products is tens of years.
4. They do not require additional maintenance.

Laying rules

Construction of an external drainage system

Information on how sewerage is installed in private houses is set out in detail by the regulatory documents SanPin and SNiP. The following points must be taken into account:

1. Treatment facilities are located at least 10 meters from the foundations and 8 meters from the adjacent site.
2. The distance to the drinking water intake is at least 20 m.
3. The drainage system is installed below the water intake.

Cesspools

If the number of residents does not exceed 1-2 people, then it is more profitable to install a sewer system in a private house with access to it. It is a sealed structure or container designed to collect Wastewater. This simplest design for similar needs. The walls are made of wood, brick or stone. They are coated with greasy clay, and the floor is concreted; it is best to make the top floor also concrete with a hatch for cleaning.

Septic tank

This is an installation that is designed not only for collecting, but also for treating wastewater. Typically, a biological anaerobic system is used. You can do it yourself. But you can purchase, for example, such as an autonomous sewer system for a private house "Topas". In the case of ready-made factory systems, if there is a need to increase throughput drain, you just need to install another container. Homemade septic tank is a rather complex structure that purifies wastewater using a special drainage system. First, a well is dug with a volume equal to three daily inflow volumes. In this case, the sewerage scheme in a private house should provide for the location of this well at a distance of 5 to 20 meters from the house. Its walls should be lined with blocks, stone or bricks and insulated, and the floor should be filled with concrete.

Most often, the septic tank has a round shape and walls that are a quarter of a meter thick. Drainage network should be located at least 30 meters from the house and below the water intake level. The sewer pipe must enter the well at least 1.5 meters from the soil surface, depending on the level to which the soil freezes. But at the same time, the level of the pipe entry into the well should be several centimeters higher than the drainage exit level. Wastewater is discharged from the septic tank through tees. Their upper ends are left open, and cleaning pipes of the same cross-section are installed above them. Pipes are connected to the lower edges of the tees, ending half a meter below the wastewater level in the septic tank.

Filtration wells

Such facilities provide for wastewater treatment mechanically. Typically used on sandy soils. Sand, gravel and clay are poured around them. The sewerage scheme in a private house using filtration wells involves installation deep into the ground, below aquifers drainage pipe. At the same time, wastewater, passing through a natural soil filter - gravel, sand and clay, is purified and goes into the ground. Naturally, before installing sewerage in private houses based on the operation of a filtration well, you should choose appropriate place for the placement of this structure. First of all, dig a pit of the required size. For example, for a family of 4 people, you will need a volume of 10 m 3 (size approximately 3x1.8x2 meters). The bottom of the pit is filled with sand and gravel, where the structure needs to be installed or built. During construction we make holes for entry sewer pipe, ventilation outlet, overflow and disposal of treated wastewater. When this structure is ready, the pipeline should begin to be drawn to it.

Laying an external sewer line

We carry out sewerage in a private house to the filtration well in two ways: either by digging a trench, or by the trenchless method using a pneumatic installation. Pipes for external network It's better to use plastic ones. They should be laid in trenches on a bed of sand and gravel; with the trenchless method, this, of course, is not necessary. Regarding the construction sewer wells, then they should be done every 15 meters, and the first one from the house should be at a distance of 12 meters. A well should also be built at every turn of the highway. The depth at which the sewer pipeline must be laid is at least 80 cm. If it is less, it is necessary to insulate it in order to prevent freezing during the cold season.

In this article, we examined in detail how sewerage is installed in private houses, and we can say that this matter is not so difficult and is quite within the capabilities of a responsible and hardworking person who is ready to do everything on his own, if available. quality materials and the necessary tools.

Living in your private house without sewerage will be at least uncomfortable.

As a rule, its installation takes place during the construction stages. Although there are exceptions.

And sewerage for a private house, as the craftsmen correctly note, is most often installed after the building is built.

Schemes and types

In large houses with many rooms (bathrooms, toilets, kitchen, etc.), a scheme with at least two septic tanks is usually used.

If it is possible to join the central sewer system, then this should be done, despite the subsequent hefty fees.

If not, you will have to build an autonomous sewer system.

Internal sewerage: diagram and specifics

When creating a project, you need to take into account the premises that need sewerage. They are located in one location on each floor. With this layout it is easier to lay pipes. Although a personal project is created for each home.

Here you can create the scheme yourself. Of course, this will not be a professional and detailed development, like that of specialists. But if you act wisely, you can use it to lay a pipeline and decide on the right amount equipment and materials.

A house plan is a must here. Identify positions for the sewer pipeline (STP), riser(s) and all plumbing fixtures. On the diagram, indicate the shaped elements for the pipeline and the distances from these elements to the riser and plumbing fixtures. Decide on the required number of connecting components. This work is carried out on each floor.

Advice: be sure to calculate how many pipes of different diameters and connecting components are needed.

Required diameters:

1. For a riser or heating system, as well as an outlet block for draining wastewater coming from the bathroom - 10–11 cm.
2. For wastewater from kitchen and bathroom a pipe of 5 cm is used.
3. Turns in the sewer should be made with two elbows. The angle of their position is 45°. This will help prevent blockages.

Material

Typically these are pipes made of cast iron, polypropylene or PVC. The first ones are considered standard. They cope with impressive loads. Their durability and reliability is amazing.

But today, products made from the other two specified materials are becoming increasingly famous. Their cost is more attractive, and installation is much easier.

Polypropylene products are purchased very often. Buyers like their flexibility and modest weight, and resistance to high temperatures Wastewater.

It is important to know: It is worth noting that products made of PVC and polypropylene are installed only inside the house. Cast iron analogues can be laid outside.

Pipes made from all these materials will last a very long time if used correctly.

Kinds

Typically, according to the method of operation, sewerage is divided into mixed and separate. Most often, the first type works in private homes.

Types of sewerage according to the method of wastewater disposal: gravity and pressure. The second requires enormous expenses and effort. Therefore, the popularity of the first is much higher.

Thus, in private houses, usually mixed gravity sewerage is installed.

Installation

An assistant is required for this work. Work takes place with polypropylene pipes. Their diameters are 5 and 10 cm. Other necessary things: revisions, tees and elbows, as well as sleeves, clamps for fastening these pipes, rubber cuffs, glue.

The sleeves are placed in those areas where the system intersects the walls or ceiling. Rubber cuffs are applied to the connection areas. And powerful insulation is done there using plumbing sealant.

The pipes are laid with some slope. These are SNiP requirements. For this case, the slope is 2–3%. It is largely determined by the diameter of the pipe. The percentage here is the slope calculated in cm/1 line. meter. For pipes with a more modest diameter, the slope is 3%. Only by following this rule can a functioning internal sewage system be installed efficiently.

And a slope of less than 2% and more than 3% is also unacceptable. In the first situation, solid elements will remain on the walls of the pipes, and a blockage will form. In the second case, the flow of drainage in these pipes will gain too much speed, and the wastewater will be divided into fractions, and solid elements will settle.

To connect such pipes, glue or rubber seals are used.

For your information: For work you will also need a soldering iron and a hammer drill.

The work starts from the outlet - the area where the internal and external sewers converge. By starting this way, you will prevent these systems from becoming inconsistent. The outlet is installed through the foundation. If it is carried out at a depth below the freezing depth of the soil in your area, then the pipe must be thermally insulated. Otherwise, the outlet will stiffen, and the sewage system will only be able to work in warm weather.

If there is no outlet hole in the foundation, you need to create one.

The required diameter of the sleeve is 13 cm. The sleeve protrudes from each side of the base by at least 15 cm. The hole and installation of the sleeve proceeds with a slope of 2% for the external sewerage next to the septic tank. The diameter of the outlet must coincide with the diameter of the riser.

The best position for a riser is in the bathroom. So the outlet section for eliminating waste from the toilet will be short. The following trend applies here: the larger the diameter of the outlet section and plumbing. device, the closer its position to the riser.

The laying method is a personal matter. You can make installations in boxes, in walls, you can work on open method. For installation of pipes with a riser, oblique tees are used. If your diagram contains a point where the outlets from the shower, bathtub and sink converge, then installation of a collector pipe is needed there. Its diameter is 10 cm.

To protect your home from unpleasant odors, install water seals. The inspection must be mounted on each riser. Each sewer turn must end with cleaning. So, if the sewer is clogged, it will be easier to clean it.

The riser continues upward in the form of a fan pipe. First, a revision is placed at the point of its installation. After which this pipe is led to the roof. Its combination with home ventilation is not allowed.

The exit must exceed the ridge of the roof, at least 70 cm from the roof and at a distance of 4 m from the windows. Ventilation, chimney and itself fan pipe must differ in height.

Having installed the internal sewerage system, it must be thoroughly drained. clean water. This way the tightness of all connections is tested.

External sewerage

Such a sewer system is a network of pipes from the outlet block to the septic tank or treatment station. The pipes here are laid underground.

The pipes must have impressive rigidity and withstand the impact of the soil. And it’s also better to lay pipes bright color to make them easier to notice in depth. The diameter of such pipes is 11 cm.

Eat different types external ventilation. The most primitive are cesspools and storage systems where wastewater is collected. Today, preference is increasingly given to various septic tanks and total treatment stations.

Two-chamber septic tank

Types of septic tanks:

1. Two-chamber.
2. Three-chamber.
3. With biofilter.
4. With one chamber and soil purification.

The septic tank is selected based on:

1. The needs of all residents of the house.
2. The number of these residents.
3. Type of residence: permanent or temporary.
4. Approximate water consumption. This refers to how much water each resident spends daily. The number of plumbing fixtures in the house and whether there are household appliances are also important here.
5. Groundwater level in your area.
6. Parameters of the territory itself. Here the areas for treatment equipment are calculated.
7. Soil type.
8. The climate in your area.

System example:

Which septic tank or treatment plant you should buy is also a matter of your budget. It also wouldn’t hurt to consult with experts.

It is also important to take into account some criteria regarding the location of such equipment:

1. The garden and septic tank must be separated by at least 8 m.
2. Any water source and septic tank are separated by at least 20 m.
3. A residential building and a septic tank are separated by at least 5 m.

The main dilemma in organizing external sewerage is the competent choice of treatment technology. Excavation and the gasket do not cause any particular difficulties.

Concerning general scheme external sewage system, then it must include:

• a system of trays where waste is concentrated;
• waste discharge channels to the disposal point;
• settling tank ( cesspool).

Algorithm for installing external sewerage:

1. Creating a trench. It connects house drains to a septic tank. Trench slope: 2 cm/1 m of pipe in the direction of the cesspool.
2. The bottom of the trench is covered with a sand cushion. Layer -10–15 cm.
3. A pipeline is laid along this cushion close to the storage tank.
4. The connecting point of the pipe with the septic tank is sealed: the pipe is laid along an oval of cords. The cord is treated with solid oil.

Requirements for sewerage in a private house

1. For installation, use materials with the required parameters.
2. Make a diagram taking into account all the necessary factors.
3. Do not use low quality pipes.
4. Do not clog your drains with heavy waste.
5. Design the sewer system at the same time as designing the house itself.
6. Install sewerage during construction stages. This best option. If it was not followed, the solution methods have already been outlined above.

How to make a sewer system in a private house, see the tips in the following video:

We will send the material to you by e-mail

Have own house- This is the dream of many people. There is nothing better than your own corner, provided with all the amenities. However, everyone wants to surround themselves with comfort, and outdoor toilet, along with the need to carry water from a well, are becoming a thing of the past. In this regard, the question became relevant: “How to create a sewerage system in a private house with your own hands?”

Creating a sewer system for a private home is not as difficult as it seems

Before starting construction, you need to decide on the type of sewerage system in a private house. With your own hands you can create several varieties that will have their own pros and cons.

The most popular varieties are:

• Drain well. Simply put, an ordinary pit that accumulates all waste and wastewater. Such a structure is inexpensive and does not take much time to construct. The sequence of actions is simple - dig a hole at a distance of twenty meters from the house. The calculation of its volume is based on indicators of 0.7 cubic meters per person. To strengthen walls it is recommended to use brickwork or concrete rings. After this, for additional sealing, the seams are coated with bitumen. The bottom of the pit can be filled with concrete so that wastewater does not poison the soil. Upon completion of construction, install a hatch for subsequent removal of liquid. This simplest scheme sewer systems in private houses, created by the owner himself. However, such an arrangement is more relevant for country houses than for a full-fledged living space;

• An equally well-known method is digging in a closed container. This structure operates on the same principle as a drainage pit. A special tank is buried in the ground, the volume of which is calculated according to the number of people living. The main waste lines are connected to the tank hatch. Drain water accumulates in the tank without polluting the surrounding area. A significant disadvantage of this method is the need for constant cleaning.

• A septic tank is difficult to construct, but at the same time the most reliable sewerage system in a private house, the layout, depth of installation and components of which can guarantee effective work for many years. During construction, it is necessary to choose a suitable location for the future well. The distance from the house should not be less than twenty meters. Next, the walls of the pit are securely reinforced with bricks; the recommended masonry thickness is twenty-five centimeters. We carefully concrete the bottom, after which we proceed to laying the drain. Place its level above the water. Do not forget to provide a hole through which the liquid will be removed.

Helpful information! You should decide which option to choose based on the funds you expect to spend during construction. The examples given differ in both the high cost of the elements and the time required.

In addition, installing a sewer system in a private house with your own hands depends on the layout of the home and the number of people regularly living in it. Experts recommend placing rooms such as the kitchen, bathroom and toilet nearby. This configuration makes it possible to allocate a single collector for their maintenance, through which the waste liquid will flow into a septic tank or waste pit.

If the house turns out to be too large, and its layout involves a significant distance between the kitchen and other rooms with drainage, it will be necessary. It is necessary to take care of separate drainage, and also provide the possibility of pumping drain water. Owners should take care to install risers to provide water to the upper rooms.

Related article:

In the article we will look at options for drainage installation, how to do it reliable system do it yourself, the average cost of specialist work.

Components that make up a sewer system for private houses with your own hands

The drainage system consists of basic elements, each of which performs its own functions. The first place on the list is occupied by the communications of the premises. Pipes and hoses located in rooms and performing the function of drainage. Laid in rooms with running water, at the outlet they are combined by a collector, through which the waste liquid leaves.

Next, the main functions are taken over by external communications. A pipeline installed outdoors is most often dug into the ground or protected by a casing. Separate drains from utility rooms can be connected to it, for example. The main task of this unit is to deliver wastewater to the receiving device.

The final stage in the chain is a storage tank, the main function of which is to store water and other waste. Depending on the complexity of the system, the receiving device can either simply be filled with water or filter sewage.

Do-it-yourself sewer installations in private houses: video tips and more

At the first stage, you should carefully examine the soil layer for special characteristics. When looking for a site for installing a drain well, you need to pay attention to:

• Slopes, potholes and other natural depressions on your site;
• Free access for vehicles to clean the storage tank;
• Distance from utility buildings and fences.

In most cases country houses They are used seasonally and do not live there regularly. Therefore, do-it-yourself sewerage in private houses can be done with a small receiving tank.

Helpful information! If you adhere to sanitary building standards, the waste pit must be located at a distance of at least five meters from other buildings. Experienced builders recommend increasing this distance as much as possible to isolate the house from unpleasant odors.

It is best to dig a hole in a low-lying area of ​​the surface, thereby providing a natural slope for drainage. Try to avoid such an arrangement to prevent accidents.

This video will help you understand how to draw up a diagram and plan for a drainage system:

Selection of parts and fittings for sewerage

The next step in construction is the selection of components. The durability and quality of operation of the entire system will depend on the quality of the fittings and other parts you choose.

Going to special shop, you need to know that the pipeline is divided into external and internal. The first combines high conductivity, resistance to high and low temperatures, as well as chemical and biological substances. These communications must allow water to pass freely and be hermetically connected to the outlet manifold.

The external pipeline has the same qualities, with the addition of specific features. Its surface can withstand the load of the earth, because such communications are buried to a depth of up to two meters. In addition, these pipes are absolutely sealed and meet international technical parameters.

When choosing communications, pay attention to the material from which they are made. The following types exist:

• Cast iron;

• Steel;

• Copper;

• Reinforced concrete;

• Asbestos-cement;

• Ceramic;

• Plastic.

Each material has specific features, suitable for certain conditions.

In addition to the main “arteries”, fittings are important. These parts are used to connect laid pipes into a drainage system.

To perform various functions, the following varieties are provided:

• Couplings - used to connect pipe sections;

• Reductions – for connecting ends of different diameters;

• Inspections - to remove blockages and dirt;

• Tees - for creating branches;

The question of installing a full-fledged bathroom in a private house faces every owner. Technologies make it possible to equip household sewerage without special investments, both material and temporary. And fewer and fewer residential private buildings remain with amenities in the yard. In this article we will look at such popular questions: what types and types of sewerage systems exist, do-it-yourself sewerage system in a house, what is a septic tank and how to make it, how to make a septic tank from concrete rings, what is a cesspool and how to make one, as well as related questions.

Types of sewerage for private households are divided into two parts.

For cottage villages or urban areas where private sector close to apartment buildings, sewerage for a private house is connected to centralized drainage collectors. This solution is convenient, since all the difficulties consist only in high-quality laying of sewer pipes to the insertion point. However, there is also negative side connecting a private house to the city sewer network - payment for sewerage services. For apartment buildings a tariff is established and the total volume of water disposal corresponds to the total amount of water consumed. Accounting is carried out according to the number registered, according to standards or according to water metering devices.

For a private home, where the lion's share of the water used is not drained into the sewer, charging based on water meter readings can significantly complicate life. To many, this issue will seem unimportant, but some owners strive for autonomy, so it remains relevant.

The traditional method of drainage in private houses is a cesspool, also known as a septic tank, also known as a sewer pit.

Before you start detailed manual for its creation and arrangement it is necessary to carry out everything plumbing work in the house.

Do-it-yourself sewer system in the house

Most private sector buildings have one floor. Where there are two of them, the bathroom is located on the first floor. Modern projects private buildings provide for the placement of plumbing on each floor, but all objects are adjacent to a common riser. As an example, consider the standard one-story building, where you need to install sewerage yourself.

So, you need to place a sink in the kitchen, a washbasin and a bathtub/shower in the bathroom, and a toilet in the toilet.

The bathroom and toilet can be combined or separate. In any case, the drainage for them will be common, therefore the distribution of drainage points in the room must be done in such a way that the distance to the “riser” (the main pipe with a diameter of 110 mm, which will discharge the wastewater to the street) is minimal.

According to design documents, the kitchen where the sink is located often has adjacent wall with bath or toilet. In this case, no difficulties arise. If the kitchen is remote from the main riser, it is necessary to lay a separate drain before connecting it to the riser. Depending on the situation, this can be done both in the perimeter of the house (the drain connection is included in the riser, which includes drains from the washbasin and bathtub/shower), and outside the perimeter (if the placement of the kitchen and bathroom does not allow the pipes to be connected in the perimeter, they are led outside boundaries of the house where they can connect or enter drain hole separately).

The difficulties described above are caused by the fact that for high-quality water flow it is necessary to maintain the sewer slope, which is not always possible to do in situations where the distance from point to point is large. The slope of the sewer must be a certain percentage depending on the diameter of the pipe. See the sewer slope values ​​depending on the pipe diameter in the figure below.

Sewerage pipes are laid under the floor. Most buildings have wooden floors, raised above ground level. The cavities under the floor are empty, which gives a lot of options for solving the problem. The slope is measured by the building level or marks on the masonry along which the pipe should pass. The assembled pipe spans are tested at intermediate stages by pouring water into the system and monitoring its drainage. It is important that even a small part does not stagnate anywhere, since a blockage will form there, which will be difficult to remove after laying the floor. Sewage slopes of more than 5% are permissible if this is dictated by the convenience of placing the system or the amount of space available under the floor.

Final assembly

When the wastewater from the places of each drainage is removed to the final place, it is necessary to final assembly. PVC pipes for sewerage have all the necessary elbows and adapters, as well as tees with various transitions, allowing you to join together drains from a sink, shower and washing machine. Next, the riser and toilet drain are combined. After completion of the work, a final high-load test is required to eliminate any leaks if any occur and to avoid blockages and water accumulation.

The sewage system is discharged beyond the perimeter of the house at a depth of at least 300 mm. It depends on the climatic characteristics of the region, as well as on the slope of the site, the proximity of groundwater, which affect the depth of the drainage pit.

At each flush point, except the toilet, from flexible hose a bend is formed in which a small amount of water constantly stands, the so-called water seal, which prevents penetration unpleasant odor from the drain. If necessary, clearing the blockage in such a knee takes 10 minutes.

Drain system

It is this that becomes a stumbling block for many homeowners in matters of arrangement domestic sewerage in a private house. Technologies have significantly simplified the work with the contents of such pits, allowing them to go without maintenance for many years.
Domestic sewerage is divided into two types - a septic tank and a traditional drainage pit.

Septic tank

A technological solution promoted in the construction of cottage communities and small country houses. They are a plastic or metal container that collects all waste and organic waste. It uses only its useful volume, which is partially increased by the use of microorganisms (septic) that process organic matter into gas (excreted through ventilation duct, does not harm the environment) and clean water (suitable for watering the area using a small pump). For a full-fledged residential building for a large family, large capacity models are offered.

Bottleneck of this type sewerage is its price. The cost of the containers is quite high; moreover, it comes with transportation and installation, which must be carried out in compliance with the technology so that the container remains intact.

An advantage worth noting is that the septic tank can be installed in areas with high groundwater levels. The containers are sunk in dug holes, then loaded with a load so that flood water does not push them out of the ground.

Average service period at correct use and adequate savings useful place is 2-5 years.

Septic tank made of concrete rings

One of the subtypes of a septic tank is a device made from factory-made concrete rings. This type of septic tank is quite popular, because... it is relatively cheap, fast and easy to install. Making a septic tank from concrete rings with your own hands is quite simple. To do this, dig a hole of sufficient depth. To cut off water, a layer of crushed stone is placed on the bottom.

Usually they put 3 one and a half meter rings on top of each other, then cover them with a lid with a hole. Another small ring is placed on this hole to provide access to the septic tank. This ring is closed by a sewer hatch. The rings are fastened together cement mortar. If you are making a septic tank with an overflow, then you need to make 2 or 3 such pyramids of rings. The more overflow chambers, the cleaner water will be on the way out. The bottom in the first chamber is waterproofed and concreted. A hole is punched in the upper part of the upper large ring and a 110 mm pipe is inserted onto which tees are put on on both sides.

If you want to make 3 chambers, then we repeat the procedure with the hole and pipe, but place them just below the level of the overflow from the first chamber to the second. A pipe is taken from the last chamber to the drainage field, or the bottom is left open and large crushed stone is laid on it. On the outside sides, the rings are filled with sand to cut off water. Don't forget to take them out of the cells ventilation pipe outside for air access.

Video about a septic tank made of concrete rings

cesspool

It has been used for many decades without any complaints or particular problems. Even in areas with high groundwater levels that fill such pits during flood periods, a solution was found in the form of placing the pit at a shallow depth, but with a large area.

The location for placing the pit and draining the sewer from the house must be determined before the start of all work, since reorienting the system already installed under the floor will require recalculating the slopes and additional time.

The pipe leading from the house to the pit is deepened by 500 - 800 mm, if the water level allows. Otherwise, it is necessary to insulate it as much as possible and leave inspection windows (a special joint block with an opening lid) for convenient cleaning every 3 meters of the pipe length.

The average pit volume for this type of sewer is 5 cubic meters per adult. At the same time, you should not neglect organic septic tanks, which will allow you to do without pumping out the contents for decades.

We build a drainage pit

Having chosen a place, you need to determine the linear dimensions and depth, dig a hole and carefully level the walls. The perimeter near the walls at the bottom is dug under the edge by 300 mm and deepens approximately 500 mm in depth. A small layer of crushed stone is placed on the bottom, then 2-3 rows of half-blocks without holes are laid on top of the solution. This will be the basis for the walls of the cesspool.

Walls (only it is able to withstand the microenvironment for a long time), making gaps between bricks of 20 - 25% of their length, starting from the 5-6th row. Water will drain out at these intervals, which will allow you to less frequently service the pit.

The masonry is not brought out to the edge of the pit, but with a shortfall of 400 mm. The main thing is that the sewer outlet pipe is completely lined.

At the bottom of the pit, medium crushed stone is laid out in a layer up to 200 mm thick; on top it can be reinforced with stones collected from slag heaps, similar to pumice for feet. This trick allows you to pump out the pit even less often, since microorganisms that absorb organic matter develop well in the pores of such drainage.

The overlap can be anything, from a shaped finished reinforced concrete slab to a self-poured product. This product is created from flat slate or galvanized sheet, laid out on top of the masonry edge. The future ceiling should protrude at least 250 - 300 mm beyond the edges of the masonry. Reinforcement from rods is laid on top. A mesh made of reinforcement with a diameter of 8-10 mm with a cell of 20 by 20 cm will be sufficient. The lower edge of the mesh must be raised from the base by at least 20 mm (it is better to lay it on stones or protective layer clamps). We build formwork on the sides of the reinforcement and fill everything with a 100 - 200 mm layer of concrete.

If the linear dimensions are large, a support made of brick or cast iron pipe on which the ceilings rest.

It is imperative to leave a hatch to allow access to the pit, as well as to pump it out if necessary.

An excellent solution would be to make the upper edge of the ceiling below ground level and fill the space around the hatch with turf.

It is imperative to leave an outlet pipe for ventilation (standard sewer PVC pipe). Many people make gazebos or parking spaces for cars on top. But in this case, the reinforcement and the slab above the pit must be seriously strengthened.

We hope you have understood the basics of plumbing in your home. If you still have questions, ask them in the comments to the article, we will definitely answer them.

Any a private house without connection to central water supply and drainage, does not make it possible to use such benefits of civilization as a bath, shower, kitchen sink, washing machine and much more.

Sewerage in a private house can be equipped different ways. This will be discussed in this article.

Owners of private houses without sewerage are forced to install it themselves. If the system was originally included in the project, then there will be no problems.

IN ready house turning on the circuit is much more difficult.

The simplest option is if the sink and shower are in the house, and the toilet is in the adjacent area. In this case, you only need to lead the pipes to the drainage pit.

When the toilet is located inside, technology must be followed. Even a slight violation can lead to contamination of the site and water. Septic tanks are necessary in this option.

Utility rooms should be located nearby (bathroom, toilet, kitchen). Will greatly facilitate the organization of sewerage.

How to choose a sewerage scheme

To create a diagram, you will need to answer several questions.

1. Permanent or temporary residence?
2. At what level are they located? groundwater?
3. Number of people living in the house?
4. Amount of water consumed?
5. Climate?
6. Land area?
7. Soil features?
8. SNiP ( building codes and rules)?

Sewers are divided into two types:

• accumulative;
• cleansing.

A cesspool is rarely used in construction. Used for temporary residences where there is no high flow rate water.

Groundwater should lie no higher than a meter from the bottom of the pit. Otherwise, pollution is guaranteed.

The storage system is used in private homes when high level groundwater. Due to the tightness of the structure, there is no risk of contamination of the site and water.

Disadvantages of this system. The sewer trucks will be called and a space will have to be allocated for the equipment to enter the site.

Types of sewerage in a private house. Features of septic tanks

Single-chamber septic tanks functionally similar to a cesspool.

This option is well suited where groundwater does not lie high.

If the house is constantly inhabited and a lot of water is used, it is not recommended to install a single-chamber septic tank.

In order to two-chamber septic tank functioned efficiently, the natural filter (crushed stone and sand) should be changed once every 5 years.

In houses with permanent residence the best system sewerage systems are considered to be septic tanks with biological filters. They use microorganisms that help process waste products. Usually these organisms are simply poured into the toilet.

This type of sewer requires connection to the electrical network.

Biological and soil cleaning is carried out septic tanks with filtration field. Such a sewage system can be installed only if the groundwater is deeper than three meters.

Installation will require a lot of space. The distance to the nearest water source is at least 30 meters.

Systems with forced air supply (aeration tanks) have significant advantages and fully justify the costs.

After installation, it is necessary to connect to the electrical network and constant human supervision.

How to make a sewer with your own hands

Construction must take place according to the approved project. The project must have a diagram of internal and external sewerage wiring.

The internal sewage system consists of risers, a main line and a plumbing connection area (bath, sink, toilet, shower).

This system ends at the foundation level in the form of an outlet pipe.

Arrangement external sewerage with your own hands, implies a diagram of a site with an external pipeline, storage or cleaning equipment.

After approval of the project, you should proceed to purchase the necessary equipment and pick up a sewer.

During construction, rely on SNiP - this will help you avoid mistakes and correctly install sewerage into a private house.

Selecting a location

An important issue when constructing a sewer system is the choice of location for the septic tank. Its location depends on:

Soil with a large amount of sand is loose, easily allows moisture to pass through, and there is a high probability of groundwater contamination.

When installing septic tanks, it is necessary to comply with the standards.

1. Distance from the house from 5 meters
2. Distance from water source from 30 meters
3. Distance from green spaces from 3 meters.

It is necessary to leave an entrance for sewage disposal equipment.

Internal sewerage

On the internal sewerage diagram, it is necessary to highlight all points of the system.

If 90-degree turns are inevitable, build it from two 45-degree angles.

Preparing for installation

Installation of external sewerage

The sump tank should be cleaned every 2-3 years.

How to lay pipes correctly

From sewer pipe, which comes out from the foundation to the septic tank, a pipeline is laid. The pipeline must be installed at an inclination, which will ensure gravity flow of the liquid. The standard angle is 2 degrees.

The wider the pipe in diameter, the smaller the angle of inclination.

The depth of installation of sewerage in a private house is determined by the soil freezing index. On average it is 1 meter. In colder regions, the depth should be increased to 1.5 m. Before installation, fill the bottom of the trench with sand and compact it well. This will help protect the highway from destruction when the soil shifts.

The ideal option is a direct pipeline from the house to the collector. For external sewerage, pipes made of cast iron or plastic with a diameter of 110 mm are suitable.

The joints must be made airtight. The trench with the pipeline is filled with sand and then with soil.

Sewerage without pumping

Typically this system consists of three sections. Two of which are completely sealed (the first and second sections). Heavy waste is deposited in the first section. In the second, light particles settle. In the third, the water is completely purified and goes into the drainage well.

Such a system needs pumping, but much less frequently than a conventional septic tank. Cleaning is carried out with a special sewage pump.

When the sludge reaches the overflow point, treatment is required.

To optimally select the volume of a septic tank without pumping, the formula is used:

200l multiplied by the number of people, add 20% to the result.