Palace of the Derviz. The estates of the von derviz Sokha and Starozhilovo in the Ryazan region. History of the von Derviz estate

On a high plateau located between the Kiritsa River and the Proney River, covered with a huge forest park, lies the estate of Baron von Derviz. There was once a mirror factory here, but in 1885 the factorywhich existed for 112 years and fell into decay and the surrounding landsbought by Baron Sergei Pavlovich von Derviz, the son of the famous builder of the Moscow-Kazan Railway Pavel Grigorievich von Derviz (he was called the “Russian Monte Cristo”).


1898. Portrait of Baron Sergei Pavlovich von Derviz. Portrait by K. Makovsky, 1898 (from Wikipedia)

Sergei Pavlovich ordered the factory buildings to be demolished and the road leading through the park to railway station"Pronya." The red color of the road from the century before last has now turned into a dark red-brown color.

The palace and park ensemble was formed between 1892 and 1907. In place of the factory buildings, an upper garden was laid out, the manor house was rebuilt according to the design of the then novice architect F.O. Shekhtel. The luxurious castle-palace resembled a Renaissance villa, the appearance of which had features various styles- pseudo-Gothic, Moorish, classicism, baroque, modern.


General view of the estate. End of the 19th century. Photo from the family album of S. P. von Derviz (Ryazan Museum of Local Lore)

In addition to the palace, the estate included a house church, a horse yard, an entrance gate, hanging park bridges over ravines, grottoes, gazebos, a rose garden, the whole system ponds, a huge park... Full description the estate could not be found either in pre-revolutionary or Soviet literature. However, using the available sources, one can imagine what Kiritsy looked like at the end of the 19th - beginning of the 20th centuries under S.P. von Derviz.


Scheme from the book: Chizhkov A.B., Grafova E.A. Ryazan estates, 2013
1. Main house. 2. Utility outbuilding. 3. Stables with carriage house. 4. Stud farm. 5. Construction at a stud farm. 6. Greenhouse location. 7. Greenhouse location. 8. Greenhouse location. 9. Outbuildings and employee houses on the estate. 10. Well. 11. Gazebo. 12. Complex of park structures (stairs, ramp, retaining walls, pool with fountain, upper grotto). 13. Lower Grotto. 14. Swimming pools. 15. Entry to the territory. 16. Estate fence. 17. Arch bridge. 18. Place of a cast iron suspension bridge. 19. Utility yard. 20. Lower Park (landscape). 21. Upper Park (regular). 22. Linden alleys. 23. Alley from blue spruce trees. 24. Pine Alley.

The architectural ensemble of the Kiritsy estate became the first large independent work the later famous Art Nouveau architect F. O. Shekhtel. He built a palace, or, as it is also called, a “theater house” on the basis of an old two-story building. A few materials from the archive of F. O. Shekhtel allow us to consider 1889 as the year of completion of the first stage of construction, and 1898 as the year of completion1.

The manor house is designed in the Renaissance-Baroque style with false Gothic details and is located on the upper terrace of a gentle slope. At the first stage, F. O. Shekhtel decorated the facade with a large pediment formed by two Gothic decorative turrets.

The building was connected by a covered passage with an outbuilding, inside of which there was a church.The outbuilding along the facade was decorated with rhizolite in a pseudo-oriental style, a crenellated parapet and two corner turrets.A two-story tower was placed between the passage and the house.



Tower from the courtyard

For balance, a wing with a tower topped with four corner decorative turrets and a high tent was added to the east. The appearance of the building has become frankly eclectic.

The arcade of the pediment rested on columns with magnificent capitals.


The eastern wing was rusticated, imitating a Gothic castle.

At the second stage of construction, the architect added another L-shaped building from the east.

The central part of the building was expanded into a two-story volume similar to the eastern wing. The northwestern tower looked out through narrow openings on the second floor and round windows on the third floor.

The outbuilding's open stone balcony rested on two columns, and the opposite semicircular balcony was supported by a cast-iron eagle with outstretched wings.

At the same time, a balcony on four columns was added to the main entrance, repeating the design of the facade.

The courtyard facade was simple, modest and practically devoid of decoration. Redevelopments were carried out in the house several times; photographs of the interiors were preserved only in the family album of Sergei Pavlovich, stored in the Ryazan Museum of Local Lore.


After the unrest of 1905 - 1907, Sergei Pavlovich sells the estate and leaves for Italy. Until 1917, Prince K.A. became its owner. Gorchakov. The year 1905 in Kiritsy did not pass quietly: if it did not come to the pogrom of the estate, then the damage was significant, and after that von Derviz provided premises on his estate for the bailiff with guards, meaning the protection of his estate.


General view of the estate. Late 19th century

In 1918, an agricultural school was opened within the walls of the Kiritsky Castle, reorganized in 1922 into a technical school with forestry and meadow reclamation departments. The technical school existed until 1934, producing 15 graduates of agricultural specialists.


In 1934, all buildings and lands of the Von Derviz estate were transferred to the People's Commissariat of Health. First a rest home is opened in the palace, and then a sanatorium for children suffering from extrapulmonary forms of tuberculosis. A mystical coincidence - the youngest son and daughter of Pavel Grigorievich Von Derviz died from this terrible illness...

In 1941 The sanatorium was evacuated to Belokurikha in Altai. In 1944 The resort is back. After the Great Patriotic War major additions and reconstruction began. The arena and stables were rebuilt. On the left side there was a 4th building for adult patients - the Lesnoy sanatorium. The one-story building, now a 2nd department building, and a former office building, has been converted into a 2-story building with a beautiful portico, arches and balconies. Verandas with ramps, made in the style of Russian classics, have been added. A beautiful flower garden was laid out - a rose garden.

Pavilions have been built among the trees of the park to accommodate children in the summer. In 1964 the children's sanatorium "Kiritsy" and the adult sanatorium "Lesnoy" merged. Currently, about 500 people are being treated at the sanatorium.


In the 1980s, repair and restoration work was carried out in Kiritsy, but during the 90s the condition of the house deteriorated. In the third quarter of 2003, Vladimir Putin allocated more than 56 million rubles from the Russian Presidential Reserve Fund for the repair and restoration of historical and cultural monuments, incl. to the von Derviz Estate / stable building / in the village of Kiritsy, Spassky District, Ryazan Region.

The history of the development of the territory where von Derviz's palace was subsequently erected dates back to the early 20s of the 18th century. The English Embankment was then called Nizhnyaya, and Ivan Polyansky owned a large plot of land in this area of ​​St. Petersburg. Then the embankment was called Galernaya, and two-story house“in the basements with a high porch and a sloping roof and thirteen windows along the facade” his son, Admiral Alexander Ivanovich Polyansky, began to own it. He was married to Elizaveta Vorontsova, the former favorite of Emperor Peter III. In 1818, the last of the family, A. A. Polyansky, died. He had no direct heirs, and during the division of property between distant relatives, the house went to the Vsevolozhsky family. In the mid-30s of the 19th century, Nikita Vsevolodovich Vsevolozhsky, an actual privy councilor, friend of Pushkin and one of the founders of the famous literary society “Green Lamp”, became the owner of the site. “Son of feasts” and “admirer of fun and golden laziness,” as Pushkin called him, was declared completely bankrupt in 1854. In the same year, Pavel Grigorievich von Derviz purchased the house and land at auction. Several other buildings were built on the site.

Pavel Grigorievich died in 1881. Eight years later, his widow Vera Nikolaevna decided to remodel the house for her son Pavel. The reconstruction of the mansion was entrusted to the architect A.F. Krasovsky. This became one of the most successful works of the architect. He preferred the Florentine style, fashionable at that time in St. Petersburg, in which by that time the palace of Grand Duke Vladimir Alexandrovich on the Palace Embankment had been created. Probably, Krasovsky decided to surpass the existing model - and coped with his task perfectly. A magnificent mansion was erected on a small plot. And, although the building was significantly smaller in size than the palace of the Grand Duke, the same could not be said about the design of the facade. Even on the Promenade des Anglais, where almost every house is a work of art, the mansion stood out from the series of nearby buildings with its splendor.

The preserved and restored interiors were not inferior to the interior decoration of the grand ducal mansions. A luxurious white marble staircase with intricately carved railings leads from the lobby with marble columns to the main second floor. It's illuminated through a large stained glass window with a semi-circular end and through a small window on the second floor. Below the large window is a marble fireplace with a gilded metal grate. The staircase decor is rich in stucco elements. On the walls opposite each other, in stucco frames in the form of porticoes, there are figures of beautiful girls, personifying the four seasons. Above them, in the lunettes and caissons of the plafond, there are picturesque inserts with images of cupids made by the artist Sadovsky. The skylight of the staircase is framed by pilasters of the Corinthian order; in the pier there are cartouches with complex stucco designs. The entrance to the upper landing of the staircase is decorated with the torsos of Atlanteans, serving as a kind of border to the staircase interior - then the main chambers began. From the site, through side doors you can enter galleries that go deep into the site. The galleries were closed by a winter garden, which has not survived to this day. The middle door leads to the central living room of the house - the Golden. This elegant room is richly decorated with stucco and gold. Mirrors in the walls create an additional artistic effect. The suite of halls with windows overlooking the Neva also includes the White and Dance halls adjacent to the Golden Living Room.

The White Hall got its name due to the light decor of the walls, a stucco lampshade and a large carved fireplace made of white marble, which was previously decorated with a mirror in a stucco frame. Bottom part The walls are paneled with walnut wood. From the White Room the door leads to the Yellow Living Room, the windows of which overlook the courtyard. The room got its name from the color of the walls. They harmonize well with white stucco and an elegant carved fireplace made of white Carrara marble. The largest and most elegant hall of the palace is the Dance Hall. Above the rich stucco cornice in the hall there were choirs for musicians. Tall mirrors in stucco frames alternate with fluted pilasters; in the center of the hall was decorated with a picturesque lampshade painted by K. E. Makovsky (the lampshade is now lost). Next to the hall was small room in the Moorish style, the ceiling and walls of which were decorated with oriental ornaments. The owners' living quarters were located on the mezzanine, on both sides of the main staircase. On the left side, with windows overlooking the Neva, the Blue Living Room has been preserved, on the right is the Pompeii Room, next to which there was a dining room and a library, decorated in a pseudo-Gothic style.

Pavel Pavlovich von Derviz never settled in the palace. He left for his estate in the Ryazan province. After his mother's death, he sold the plot. In 1903, the new owner of the mansion became Grand Duke Andrey Vladimirovich. In 1918, the palace, like many others, was nationalized. In the first years of Soviet power, various institutions were located there. During the Great Patriotic War, part of the premises was given over to a children's reception center; another part housed a hospital for the wounded. After the war, the palace housed one of the many design organizations cities. On November 1, 1959, the country's first Wedding Palace opened in the building. It is located here to this day.

English Embankment, building 28

In Ryazan, as in Moscow, there are a lot of traffic jams during rush hours, fortunately, their length cannot be compared with Moscow. Ryazan is only 180 km away, and Muscovites often come for one or two days. Traditional routes of stay: Konstantinovo (State Museum-Reserve of S.A. Yesenin) - Poshupovo (St. John the Theologian Monastery) - memorial museum-estate of Academician Pavlov and the Ryazan Kremlin (Ryazan Historical and Architectural Museum-Reserve).
But in the Ryazan region there are others, no less interesting places, although not so popular among tourists, today I want to tell you about one such place.

Kiritsy is a village located 50 kilometers southeast of Ryazan. The M5 highway runs nearby. Attraction Kirits - Von Derviz Manor, this fairy house It is clearly visible from the highway, so you won’t be able to drive by without paying attention to it. Now the estate houses the Kiritsy Children's Tuberculosis Sanatorium, considered the best in the country, apparently this is no coincidence: Pavel von Derviz's daughter and son died of bone tuberculosis, such a twist of fate.
You can walk through and inspect the estate if you move from the direction of Ryazan in front of the ponds and turn left, you can leave your car in front of the barrier, and then walk further, despite the sign “No Trespassing”, no one is turning anyone away.
Is it worth going to Ryazan just because of the estate, probably not, but if you come to relax in our city and you have an extra three hours, go and see “Cinderella’s Palace”.

So, now about the history of the estate.
Von der Wiese is a Russian noble family of German origin. John Adolf came to St. Petersburg during Peter III and received nobility with the particle “von-der”.
The bulk of the family fortune was earned on the construction of railways by Pavel von Derviz. He was called “Russian Monte Cristo”, he was an active state councilor. In addition to “earning money,” he was also involved in charity work: he built a children’s clinical hospital in Moscow in memory of his older children, as well as a lyceum in memory of Tsarevich Nicholas. Kiritsy were acquired by his son, Sergei Pavlovich, who loved music, poetry and other arts. The estate project was commissioned from the novice architect Fyodor Shekhtel.
In 1887-1889, in Kiritsy, Shekhtel built a miracle: a fairy-tale estate with a Palace, arches, stairs, descents to cascading ponds, a bridge of Love, grottoes with real corals, fountains, and statues of centaurs. But the construction of this miracle ruined Sergei: having sold his property, he and his family went to live in Paris. And then there was a revolution and, like all estates, Kiritsy was nationalized, and in 1938 a sanatorium was opened there for children suffering from tuberculosis, this saved the estate from ruin: in terms of preservation, it compares favorably with the von Derviz estates in Sokh and Starozhilovo, but the statues of centaurs turned into “Soviet” deer, bears and pioneers, the grottoes collapsed, the corals disappeared, the fountains dried up. But all the same, the estate is magnificent, and, of course, it could not help but become “overgrown” with legends.
The first of them is about the Bridge of Love, according to legend, the bridge was built by Sergei Pavlovich for walks with a local peasant woman, when he was tired of her love - the girl threw herself off the bridge, became a ghost and appears at the meeting place. The second legend is related to cinema - in Ryazan, many believe that it was in Kiritsy that “Cinderella” was filmed (meaning the 1947 film, directed by Nadezhda Kosheverova and Mikhail Shapiro), but there is no documentary evidence of this."
And now the estate itself.

It is no secret that the fate of many provincial estates throughout Russia is a story of prosperity and tragic death during the 1917 revolution. Luxurious mansions, many of which were masterpieces of architecture, were razed to the ground by the forces of rebelling and marauding peasants. The lion's share of the majestic mansions left no stone unturned - and this is far from an artistic exaggeration. Only a few Ryazan estates managed to withstand the onslaught of history. And only a few of them continue to delight the eyes of Ryazan residents and guests of the region with their condition and modern relevance. The first on this list is the estate of the Von Derviz family, located in Kiritsy.

The Russified German Wiese family moved to Russia back in the times of Peter the Great. The family was not an ordinary one. Thus, Heinrich-Dietrich Wiese was at one time listed as the senior burgomaster of Hamburg. On Russian soil, the settlers also did not fall flat on their face, but worked hard in the political spheres. For his services in the field of justice, the head of the family, Johann-Adolf Wiese, received the title of nobility and the prefix “Von Der” from Paul III himself. History has preserved the name of Pavel Grigorievich Von Derviz, a Ryazan entrepreneur who became famous throughout Russia for his successes in the construction of railways. In 1859, he began construction of the railway from Moscow to Ryazan and headed the board of the Moscow-Ryazan Railway Society. Another of his famous creations was railway from Ryazan in the Kozlov direction. Thanks to the huge cargo turnover, the line brought good profits. In general, the railway path brought Von Derviz a colossal fortune, and Pavel Grigorievich himself became one of the richest people Russia. In addition to several estates in the Ryazan region, the family owned real estate in Moscow and St. Petersburg, France and Switzerland.

A successful businessman turned out to be a loser in his personal life. The millions he earned did not bring him happiness; Pavel Grigorievich was revealed to be a tyrant who abused both local peasants and his own family. As if to punish him for his bad character, two of his children were diagnosed with bone tuberculosis - at that time this disease was considered incurable. The death of the first-born Vladimir crippled his father, and the death youngest daughter Varenki brought him to the grave - Pavel Grigorievich died suddenly of a heart attack. A significant part of Von Derviz's colossal fortune went to his eldest son, Sergei Pavlovich. Since childhood, Seryozhenka was known as a sensitive and artistic person; he graduated from the Moscow Conservatory and enjoyed communicating with muses rather than with business partners. He spent most of the inheritance on the construction of a manor house in Kiritsy. For these purposes, the young but promising Fyodor Osipovich Shekhtel, who later became one of the brightest architects in Russia, was sent to the outback. The Von Derviz estate became one of the first objects where Shekhtel was able to expand and hone his ideas about beauty in practice.

The asymmetrical two-story building was decorated with a portico topped with turrets and spiers. One wing of the building was connected to the main building by a glass gallery, and was also decorated with a balcony supported by the wings of a giant eagle. The other is equipped with ramps decorated with small sculptures. Two graceful staircases descended from the mansion into the ravine, connecting in a wide terrace. Down - to complex system ponds and orchard- another staircase led away, the path was decorated with grottoes from wild stones and sculptures of centaurs. Thus, Schlechtel managed to gracefully fit the complex landscape into the manor’s estate. The famous Bridge of Love, illuminated by lanterns, stretched nearby, and along the winding alleys one could walk to the Red Gate - two decorative turrets connected by an arched bridge.

However, the Von Dervises did not have long to enjoy the masterpiece of architecture. Nature, generous to the father, clearly rested on his son. Sergei Pavlovich quickly went bankrupt, abandoned the family business, and after his mother’s death he sold off the remains of his Ryazan property and left with his wife and daughter for Paris. In 1908, the estate passed to Prince Gorchakov, but he himself did not live in it, and the farm gradually fell into disrepair. Perhaps it was the constant absence of the owner that saved the estate from the massacre of the peasants. The main part of the buildings survived, decorative elements facade and even the famous eagle. After the revolution, the building first belonged to the agricultural school, then it was transferred to the local technical school, and then it became a recreation center. In 1938, a sanatorium for children... suffering from osteoarticular tuberculosis was opened in the mansion. An amazing coincidence of circumstances returned historical justice. Pavel Grigorievich Von Derviz, with whose money the fabulous estate was built, would probably be pleased.

Besides official history, the Von Derviz estate has several alternative ones. The most romantic one is, of course, associated with the Bridge of Love. According to one version, the bridge was built by order of Sergei Pavlovich for secluded romantic walks, which he indulged in with a local peasant woman. She dumped him when the unlucky lover got tired of the affair. Then the girl allegedly appeared in the form of a ghost at the same place of the fatal meetings. However, this story was most likely invented by the young residents of the sanatorium as a night horror story. And they only fell from the bridge local residents drunk after the estate was transferred to the state. Perhaps this is why the Bridge of Love is sometimes called the Devil's Bridge.

Another story is more modern in nature and is related to cinema. According to a very well-known legend in Ryazan, the famous “Cinderella” was filmed in Kiritsy. However, there is no evidence of this, and the footage of the old film itself does not show any special features that could be used to correlate the filming location with the Von Derviz estate.








The house on Galernaya in the center of St. Petersburg has a very ancient history.

Address: Galernaya, 33

The first owner of the mansion is A.P. Volynsky, a cabinet minister under Tsarina Anna Ioannovna (he was executed in 1740 for participating in a conspiracy against Biron). Then his daughter, who married Count Vorontsov, owned the house on Galernaya. The fate of an ordinary apartment building changed dramatically in 1883, when a young baron, a descendant of the old German family Wiese, Chamberlain Sergei Pavlovich von Derviz (1863–1918), decided to remodel it. Under him, the house was rebuilt in the Art Nouveau style; this task was entrusted to the architect Schreiber.

Schreiber paid great attention to the interiors: in them, the modern era is replaced by the Empire style, Elizabethan Baroque - classicism, unexpectedly getting lost in the bliss of lush Moorish style. In 1902, the house on the side of the Neva embankment was built on two floors. Modern look The building, facing Galernaya, was acquired under another owner, the chairman of the charity society for poor children in St. Petersburg, N.N. Shebeko. He bought the mansion in 1909, and according to the design of the architect Maksimov, he slightly modified it.


In 1910, V. Meyerhold created the House of Interludes in this building. On two floors of the mansion, Meyerhold creates and at the same time breaks all traditions: theatrical traditionalism in the spirit of the old masters of Alexandrinka is combined here with the ideas of Meyerhold's Theater of the Future. The house on Galernaya becomes one of the city's main testing theater venues.


After the revolution of 1917, the mansion was plundered: first, the district committee of the RCP (b), then the Union of Metalworkers and the Estonian House of Education were opened here. Then the front part on the Neva side was adapted for a tuberculosis dispensary, and a sobering-up station was located in the courtyard wing. Finally, in 1998, the building was transferred to the use of the St. Petersburg Opera chamber theater. Many years of renovation followed, during which it was possible to recreate the interiors late XIX century. We are talking about the Moorish living room, covered with gilded ornaments, the Maple living room, decorated with picturesque panels, Winter Garden, made in the form of a whimsical grotto, the Red Living Room (an example of the Italian Renaissance).