Car owners who independently repair their “iron horse” periodically ask themselves the question: how to make a beam crane with your own hands? This is a practical and relatively inexpensive lifting device that significantly simplifies heavy and time-consuming work, such as engine removal. In addition, lifting equipment is suitable for low-rise construction: lifting bricks, mortar and other building materials to a small height.

You can make such a mechanism for your garage yourself. Almost any metal is suitable for this, which often lies unattended on the territory of garage cooperatives and construction sites. Homemade cranes can be gantry cranes, with a rotating boom structure, or suspended, moving along a channel in a horizontal plane.

Features of factory-produced crane beams

• movement along a guide beam in a given direction;
• gripping and lifting loads;
• short-term fixation in a raised position or unloading at the desired point;
• return to the starting position, repeating the working cycle if necessary.

According to their own design features, crane beams are divided into two categories: supporting and suspended. These groups differ in the arrangement of their route of movement. Support modifications move along crane tracks equipped with a special rail. Loading and unloading operations are controlled manually or by means of an installed electric drive.

Hanging models fixed to the ceiling. The function of guides here is performed by an I-beam channel. Such designs are more variable in application and help to use the interior space more efficiently. It should be clarified that if the crane equipment is intended to be installed inside garage box, it's better to stop at hanging version.

To simplify the installation process, you can use a manual drive. This variation is no different high performance, but for the needs of car enthusiasts more is not required. If you have experience installing electrical equipment, you can install a motor for the hoist.

Main Features

When making a homemade crane beam, it is better to focus on the technical parameters of factory-made models. These characteristics were calculated by qualified specialists, so they are optimally suited for multi-purpose applications.

The characteristics of different modifications may differ, but in general, it looks like this:

• Work area. The span length varies between 3-28.5 meters. You should not focus on this indicator: not every garage has such an area, so the length of the crane runway is selected based on the actual size of the room.
• Lifting height. Industrial lifts lift loads to a height of 6-18 meters. For private use, you can stop at the minimum option. For example, if we are talking about a simple hoist for a tractor or a passenger car, a lifting height of 1.5 meters is sufficient.
• Voltage. Electrical equipment operates from a three-phase network of 380V. If you intend to install a lifting device with manual drive, this parameter is not relevant.
• Operating temperature range. Factory models work correctly at temperatures of -20/+40 degrees. This parameter must be taken into account when choosing components.

Materials and tools

To make a homemade crane beam you will need the following building materials:

1. Support rods - made of pipe round section, with a diameter of 110 mm.
2. The cross rod is an all-metal pipe with a diameter of at least 100 mm.
3. Racks – corrugated pipe square section 100*100 mm.
4. Reinforcing bevels for the upper cross member and base - steel angle.
5. Fastening elements – M16 bolt-nut set.
6. Cargo lifting mechanism– manual hoist or hoist.

To assemble the structure you will need:

• wrenches;
• Bulgarian;
• welding machine.

Before starting work, it is recommended to make a drawing of the future crane beam indicating the dimensions of the component elements. In addition, it makes sense to calculate the optimal load capacity in advance so that the lift can cope with the assigned tasks.

Overhead crane

This design is optimal for a garage, but there are a number of nuances. First, overhead lifts require guides, which are usually installed during the construction phase. Secondly, the base must be strong and withstand loads of at least 250 kilograms.

Of course, you can equip guides for moving the hoist yourself. To do this, you will need to make mortgages in the wall, to which you will attach an I-beam or a corrugated pipe with a square section. The length of the crane runway is calculated based on individual needs. In general, to remove the engine, a free play of 1.5-2 meters is enough. It is better to make the guide from a single piece of pipe. If you have to weld the missing part, it is recommended to carefully control the quality of the seam so that the structure does not collapse under load.

Having dealt with the guide, we move on to making the carriage. This element can be welded from steel angle, fastening the racks with pins. Here you can use steel strips and corner elements. The dimensions are arbitrary, the main thing is that the width of the carriage matches the parameters of the guide.

The design will require 8 bearings: 4 to move the carriage (wheels) and 4 to the idler rollers, which will perform a supporting function. For the chassis it is better to use bearings of larger diameter. Considering the importance of the element and the expected loads, you should not skimp on quality. For deflection rollers, any consumer goods will do, for example, Chinese factory-made rollers.

The support bearings are installed on studs of suitable diameter (2 for each), which, in turn, are inserted into the holes of the side strips and secured with nuts. Bypass bushings are welded to the bottom of the structure. They are needed to prevent the crane beam from skewing.

Additional metal strips going down are welded to the side edges. Four holes are drilled here: 2 on each side. IN bottom part a supporting pin is inserted onto which the hoist itself is suspended. A safety pin is installed in the upper grooves to prevent deformation of the carriage under load.

All that remains is to place the crane-beam trolley on the guide and tighten the structural elements with bolts.

Step-by-step manufacturing diagram

Attaching the support beam

Trolley with support bearings

Crane beam with installed carriage

Support crane beam

This is a full-rotating structure, equipped with a boom and a lifting mechanism. In a garage, such a crane beam can only be used as a corner beam, however, this option has competitive advantage. The design is collapsible and portable, so it is quite suitable for construction and other economic purposes. As in the previous case, most of the parts can be found in the garage, but some items will have to be purchased. In any case, a do-it-yourself cantilever crane will cost much less than purchasing a factory model.

First, a rotating mechanism is assembled, consisting of two bearings, a housing and a base. It is immediately necessary to clarify that the body and lower platform are manufactured at lathe, so they will probably have to be ordered. Bearings are selected individually, taking into account the size of the housing part and the diameter of the bushing on which they will be mounted. The structure is tightened with bolts, for which holes of a given diameter with internal threads are drilled in the body.

Now let's move on to making the support posts. To do this, you will need a piece of pipe and four pieces of channel. The upper edge of the pipe is leveled with a grinder and a file: a rotating mechanism is welded to this part, so it is important to prevent distortion. The channel is cut so that the height is at the level of a person’s waist.

This is done so that rotation of the lifting mechanism handle does not cause difficulties. The support posts are trimmed to the level so that the crane beam does not collapse during operation. In addition, a cross made of any rigid profile is attached to the lower part of the channel. It's better to use here threaded connection to simplify the transportation process.

The next structural element is the crane equipment platform. The best option there will be an I-beam attached to the turntable with bolts. As an alternative, a channel or wooden beam 150*200 mm is suitable. Here you need to focus on balance so that the crane beam does not fall over and overweight the platform when lifting the load. To do this, a counterweight made from scraps of metal or brick is suspended in the opposite boom part of the platform. So that the element fits organically into general design, it is better to weld a small box, inside of which the counterweight will be placed.

A winch and boom are placed on the platform. The lifting capacity of the winch is selected individually. As practice shows, for household needs a value of 500-1,000 kilograms is sufficient. When purchasing, it is a good idea to pay attention to the presence of a locking brake.

The arrow is assembled from three elements:

1. Mounts with shaft.
2. Brusa.
3. The tip where the pulley is installed.

The fastening body can be welded from pieces of channel material by passing any metal “round timber” with a diameter of 20-30 mm through the central part. The shaft is “locked” from the sides with bearings of a suitable size to increase the wear resistance of rubbing parts and simplify raising/lowering the boom. The arrow body is made from wooden beam, which is clamped by a channel. A pulley block is placed in the upper part through which the winch cable is passed.

Materials for the crane were mainly found in scrap metal. We only had to buy bearings, a winch, and order parts for the turning mechanism from a turner.

And I also had to pay the welder, since I myself welding work I can’t do it because of some vision problems.

In general, this crane cost 5,000 rubles, which cannot be compared with the amount of work that I was able to complete with its help, because the “cheapest” helper in our region costs 800 rubles per day.

I’ll immediately say that during operation, my faucet revealed some shortcomings, which I will point out and advise on how to correct them. So your faucet will be a little different from mine.

Let's start with the rotating mechanism

It consists of six parts that need to be ordered by a turner, and two bearings.

As you can see, there are no dimensions in the drawing. The fact is that you don’t have to follow the exact size, like mine. After all, we make the faucet from available material, and I cannot know what size channel or I-beam, or what kind of pipe you will have at hand.

A little more or a little less doesn’t matter in my design. And you will understand this from further instructions. And having generally estimated what materials and parts you have, determine what dimensions to take for the manufacture of the rotating mechanism.

The mechanism has two bearings. At the top, between the housing and the base, there is a support bearing. Below, again between the housing and the base, there is a simple radial bearing.

Or rather, the housing should be mounted on the bearing, and the base should fit into it. Thus, both of these parts are connected. For more reliable fixation of the radial bearing, a nut is screwed onto the housing from below. The thickness of the threaded and retaining parts of the nut is at your discretion, but not less than 3 mm.

Then this unit is attached to the platform with a bolt (I have an M 26), which attracts the base to the platform. Thus, it turns out that the platform and base are a stationary part of the mechanism, and the body with the nut is rotating.

Now a little about what practice has shown. Towards the end of the season, the radial bearing weakened a little, and a barely noticeable play formed in the turning mechanism.

But with a boom length of 5 meters, this play became noticeably noticeable, so I recommend installing a hub bearing, 36 mm wide, instead of a radial bearing.

Here in Kazan, support and wheel bearings can be bought for 500 rubles both. And to tighten the bolt securing the base to the platform, you will need a spanner with an extension, and definitely two washers - a flat one and a lock washer.

Our next node will be the rack.

To make it you will need a piece of pipe (I have d140) and four pieces of channel. The height of the stand needs to be estimated so that finished form she was just the thing for you. Even two centimeters lower. Then it will be convenient to turn the winch when operating the crane.

Since God is unlikely to send you a piece of pipe with an evenly cut end, you will have to cut one end yourself. To do this, we take a car clamp, or make a clamp from a strip of tin, and tighten it on the pipe.

When tightened, the clamp will try to position itself on the pipe as evenly as possible, and if you help it a little (by eye), you will get a fairly even line around the circumference of the pipe, which you just have to draw, then remove the clamp, and cut the pipe along this line using a grinder .

Then, the rotating mechanism platform is welded to this flat end of the pipe. Now it’s clear why I didn’t give the dimensions in the drawing? You still have to order the rotating mechanism. And you can find a tuba. This means the diameter of the platform can be ordered according to the diameter of the pipe.

Now the legs. They need to be welded so that the stand does not collapse. How to do this? Firstly, they need to be cut to the same length.

Then hang the pipe with the welded platform, passing the rope through the hole in the center of the platform, and place your legs diagonally towards the pipe, so that in the end, the pipe remains hanging evenly, and the legs rest against it on all four sides.

As soon as the balance is found, you need to draw by eye the corners of the channels that abut the pipe, and trim them with a grinder as shown in the photo.

After trimming the corners, lean your legs against the pipe again, catch your balance, check with a rack and tape so that they form an even cross, and secure them with welding. After tacking, check the cross again, and you can weld.

All that remains is to make the support cross itself. It can be made from any rigid profile. At first there was an idea to put it on wheels made of bearings, but time was running out, and it didn’t come to the wheels, but actually it would have been nice. The unit turned out to be quite heavy, and it was difficult to move it.

The length of the arms of the cross is 1.7 meters, although as operation has shown, this cross does not play a particularly large role in the stability of the crane. The main stability is provided by balance, which we will talk about later.

The cross is not welded to the legs, but is attached with M 10 bolts and nuts. This was done for ease of possible transportation. The legs were reinforced in anticipation of installing wheels, but they never got around to it, although the idea of ​​installing them is still there.

The stand with the rotating mechanism is ready, now let's move on to the crane platform, on which the counterweight, winches, and boom will be installed. I found a one and a half meter I-beam, 180 mm wide, for the platform. But I think you can use a channel and even a 150 x 200 beam under it.

At first I even wanted to use timber, but since I found an I-beam, I chose it. The platform is attached to the rotary mechanism body with four bolts and M 10 nuts.

If you use timber instead of an I-beam, then you will need to make additional platforms for it, above and below. You can “encircle” it with two pieces of channel and tighten everything with bolts.

But we’ll wait with the bolts for now, since the place where the platform is attached to the rotating mechanism will need to be selected based on balance. That is, the crane boom must be balanced by a block for counterweights and a winch. That is, the crane must stand confidently on the stand and not fall over.

Next will be the counterweight block.

I have it made from pieces of the same channel as the platform, but it can be made from anything, and in any way. The main thing is to have a container in which you can install loads, so that if necessary, you can increase the counterweight.

Now about the winch. My winch is installed with a capacity of 500 kg, with a brake. And once again, as practice has shown, such power was not enough to lift a load of about 100 kg.

That is, you can lift it, but you have to lean so hard on the handle that when lifting to a height of more than 5 meters, you get tired very quickly. For such a crane you need a winch of 1 - 1.5 tons.

There was also supposed to be a second winch for lifting the boom, but it was at that time, having visited a bunch of shops and markets, that I could find only one winch with a brake, which you see in the photo. Therefore, instead of a second winch, a temporary tension cable was made, the length of which is still changed using clamps.

Unfortunately, there is nothing more permanent than a temporary structure. I still recommend that you install a winch instead, preferably a worm one. Its speed is low, and the brake, whether up or down, is dead. That's what an arrow needs.

All that remains is to make an arrow, which is what we will do. The boom consists of a mount with a shaft, a beam 150 x 50, and a tip with a pulley.

First - the mounting body. It is better to make it from a piece of channel wood.

Any round timber with a diameter of 20 to 30 mm will do for the shaft. For example, I cut off a piece of the rotor shaft of some old engine. Then we bend it in a vice, put two brackets around this shaft and fasten it to the channel, into which the beam will then be inserted.

We buy two simple bearings, so that they fit tightly onto the shaft, and cut out a seat in the mounting body.

Of course, you can dream up how to secure the bearings in the housing. Besides mine, there are probably a dozen more ways. And I found an ebonite plate, 10 mm thick, from which I made these fasteners.

The boom itself is a beam 150 x 50, 5 meters long. It is inserted into a channel 80 mm wide and 2.5 meters long. True, I had to trim it a little so that it would go inside the channel. I have a channel installed, 3.5 meters long, but this is only because I didn’t have it at hand at the time good timber, with small knots. I simply played it safe, which, unfortunately, increased the weight of the arrow.

The timber is secured to the channel with ties made from a metal strip 3 mm thick.

At the end of the boom, you need to attach a pulley for the cable. Mine is made from a wheel from a trolley bag. For skillful hands, I think there are plenty of options for attaching the pulley. At first it was fastened between two pieces of plywood, but then I made a fastening from a channel.

Now you can assemble the arrow, if not for one “but”. During operation, the brackets with which the shaft is attached to the channel turned out to be rather weak. So I made them stronger.

And one more addition. My reinforcing part is secured with four bolts. You need to add two more on top to make the knot more rigid. Although mine works fine with four bolts. Otherwise I would have added it a long time ago.

Now you can assemble the entire crane platform, that is, install a winch on it, a block for counterweights under the winch, and at the other end - a boom lifting body with a boom. If there is, then a second winch, if not, then a guy rope, like mine.

All this is assembled in a lying position, and upon completion it is raised vertically, onto some kind of support. For example, I stacked several pallets on top of each other and placed the assembled platform on them so that the counterweight hung freely downwards.

Then we attach the rotating mechanism to the stand. The most important thing remains - install the platform on the stand so that the boom and counterweight balance each other.

Unfortunately, I don’t have any photographs of the structure that I built for this, well, I’ll try to explain it this way.

This design is a tripod with a block at the top. The height of the tripod is approximately three meters. It is made from timber 100 x 50. As you probably already guessed, the assembled crane platform needs to be suspended and raised so that a stand can be placed under it.

The platform will be raised using its own winch. To do this, we pass the winch cable through the block and hook it to the boom lifting body, which is located at the opposite end of the platform.

Now, if you operate the winch upward, the entire platform will rise. But during the rise, the arrow, raised up, begins to collapse, so you need to either call a couple of assistants who will fix the arrow in a vertical position, or make another tripod (as I did) with a block 6 meters high, and tie rope to the end of the arrow, let it through the block, and pull it up as the platform rises.

Having suspended the platform in this way and placed a stand under it, you can lower and raise the platform and move the stand to find a position in which the counterweight will balance the boom.

In this position, drill 4 through holes and bolt the platform to the rack. Well, that's all. The tap is ready. You can start testing.

Well, a couple of examples of operation:

General view of my faucet:

If the article does not answer your question, ask it in the comments. I will try to answer as quickly as possible.

I wish you success in your work, as well as the opportunity to lift and move everything you need and where you need it.

Homemade lifting devices are currently becoming increasingly popular. During construction and when working in a garage, you often have to move heavy loads. In construction, manual transportation takes considerable time, and it is not always possible to install ramps or scaffolding. In any case, it is much easier and more efficient to use lifts.

Crane diagram

The same applies to the automotive theme; a garage with a lift is much more convenient to use. The simplest lifts are an ordinary beam, rigidly fixed at one end, and a movable block is installed at the other end. A rope is thrown over the block, with the help of which the loads are tightened manually.

Such homemade lift quite simple to manufacture, but with practical point the view is very uncomfortable. Firstly, the load is still lifted manually, and secondly, dismantling and installing a beam from one place to another takes even more time than simply dragging weights. Similar mechanisms are used in log houses.

Materials and tools:

• pillar supports;
• wooden top beam;
• metal guide;
• wheel-pulley;
• bearings;
• chain hoist;
• spacers;
• pulley;
• welding machine.

If the question of how to make a lift for a log house yourself makes you think, then here is a fairly simple solution. An upper beam with a length slightly greater than the length of the future structure is installed on 2 vertically dug pillar supports. This gap makes it possible to drag logs directly from the stack to the installation site.

The wooden beam must be equipped with a metal guide on top along which the mechanism will move. Further, the technology is simple, the wheel-pulley on a bearing is connected to an L-shaped metal part, to the other end of which a manual chain hoist with a load capacity of at least 750 kg is attached. This minimum is explained by the fact that the weight of a thirty-centimeter-wide log house ranges from 270 to 400 kg, depending on the moisture content of the wood.

The pillars for such a structure must be at least 20 cm in diameter, and the beam, based on the load, is a beam of at least 15X20 cm in cross section.

The guide is a piece of reinforcement to which the tips of the nails are welded at equal distances, no more than half a meter. They will attach the guide to the wooden beam.

The beam is fixed a couple of tens of cm away from the pillars to avoid coupling between the transport device and the pillar.

To strengthen the structure, spacers are installed on the nailed beam. If the height of the pillars is 4-5 m, then for stability they must be dug into the ground 1 m and spacers must be installed on the side in which the beam shifts.

The pulley, preferably with sides, is put on the guide and the lift is ready for work.

Homemade crane

At individual construction you can’t do without a crane, which you can also make with your own hands if necessary.

A homemade crane will help install floors, foundations and all other structural elements, thanks to its ability to fall below the zero mark by 2.5 m and rise to a height of about 2 m.

Such a crane allows you to transport cargo over a distance of 3 m. For home construction, the proposed capabilities should be sufficient.

This design does not provide a turning mechanism, since the crane is not designed for loads exceeding 300 kg and can be easily turned manually along with the entire structure.

In order to make a crane with your own hands, you will need:

• 4 telescopic pipes with an outer diameter of 140 mm,
• three-meter I-beam,
• metal corners for supporting structures,
• hoist or hand winch.

Homemade crane

Telescopic pipes are welded in pairs to the ends of the beams, consisting of two adjacent corners 1.5 and 0.5 m long, thus obtaining 2 U-shaped structures, which for stability are welded to the base of the beam and reinforced with triangular spacers.

Additional support corners are welded to the smaller frame, which will serve as the rear support of the crane, to prevent the future lifting device from tipping over.

An I-beam is welded in the center of the bottom of the horizontal beams so that the smaller frame is on the edge of the I-beam, and the larger one is a little further than 1.5 m from the smaller one.

A winch is attached to the bottom of the I-beam, which will be a horizontal mobile device, while the telescopic system will help move loads in the vertical direction.

Lift in the garage

How to make a homemade lift in the garage? Car enthusiasts quite often resort to self-repair vehicle, and removing a car engine by hand is not an easy task.

For such purposes, it is simply necessary to have a garage lift, even if you made it yourself. The collapsible crane beam system does not take up much space and is made from:

• cross pipe,
• square racks on triangular supports equipped with wheels,
• manual winch.

The pipe is inserted into fasteners welded to the top of the racks and secured with bolts. The winch is welded to vertical rack, and 2 rollers are welded to the beam, along which the cable from the winch moves. A winch for the garage is also easy to do with your own hands.

After use, the homemade crane beam is disassembled into 2 supports and a cross beam, which are placed in any corner of the garage. The advantage of such a beam crane is that its creation does not require special skills and materials; everything can be found at hand.

In addition, the beam crane will allow you to lift and transport loads of up to 800 kg within the garage.

Homemade winch for the garage. The design of the winch involves the presence of a drum with a cable, which is attached to a shaft to a frame made of square pipes. A large sprocket is attached to the outer edge of the drum, and a small one is attached to chain transmission attached to the electric drive. If the winch is planned to be manual, then a handle is attached to the shaft on which the drum is mounted.

Car lift in the garage. To repair a car, a pit or overpass must be provided in the garage, but it is easier to organize a lift. Although this is a rather risky undertaking, equipping a lift in the garage with your own hands makes practical and economic sense.

The simplest car lift is the already described overhead crane with a winch; in this case, after lifting to the required height, the car is placed on platforms. But there is a risk of the cable breaking, so there is another garage lift.

To make a scissor lift you will need:

• channels from which the platform and base are made,

and for making scissors the following are suitable:

• I-beams,
• hydraulic cylinder,
• bushings,
• pump,
• distributor into two sections.

The beams are fastened with bushings using the scissor principle, and a hydraulic cylinder with a handle helps raise the scissors to the desired height.

A movable and simpler, stationary crane beam in the garage with your own hands is quite doable if you have a welding machine and two days of free time. For a professional auto repair shop, it is easier to buy ready-made lifting equipment.

If the need for a crane is rare, then it is cheaper to make a simple and reliable lift yourself. Such a homemade crane can easily lift a weight of up to 800 kg, and this is for repair work It's enough in the garage.

In order to make a frame for a small beam crane in a standard garage with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

• I-beam (4 - 4.5 meters) - the required footage depends on the height of the garage;
• pipe (diameter 10-12 cm), length 2.4 meters - 2 pieces;
• one square pipe (10x10 cm);
• corners (10x10);
• manual hoist and hoist;
• bolts (M16) with nuts.

If you plan to build a mobile crane beam, then you need four more rollers and a hoist.

The procedure for making a crane frame with your own hands:

• We weld the legs of the crane - you need to weld the corners on both sides to the I-beam pipe;
• The location of the corner is at an angle of 45 degrees. The result is a kind of stiffening ribs that will firmly fix the stand, which bears the bulk of the weight of the load carried by the crane;
• We weld two triangles and spacers on each crane post.

• if the crane is a mobile beam, then on both sides from the bottom, on each stand, a roller must be welded horizontally - ordinary rollers for metal containers will do, furniture rollers will not withstand the weight;
• At the top, we fix a pipe as a crossbar along which the lifting mechanism will move;
• We weld an I-beam in the center of the pipe to secure the roller along which the steel cable of the crane’s lifting mechanism will move.

• We weld a piece of square pipe on top of the I-beam (to give rigidity to the frame) - 40 cm. The pipe should protrude on both sides by at least 20 cm. It turns out that the side post is located in the middle of the crossbar stiffening pipe;
• We insert the transverse pipe of the frame crossbar into the square pipe;
• drill through holes under the fastening bolts on both sides of the square holder and in the crossbar pipe itself - you need a rigid reliable fixation on both sides of the vertical stand.

The result is a U-shaped structure of the crane frame, which is installed on rigid legs with spacers, and a crossbar pipe is rigidly bolted to the top.

Installation of lifting mechanism - manual or automatic

To mechanically lift loads on the frame, you need to install manual hoist– worm winch and cable. How to attach the hoist to the frame:

• on the side of the rack we install a manual worm winch (load capacity 800 kg, no less);
• The steel cable moves along rollers.

This mechanism makes it easy to lift the engine or car by the hood on one side.

You can use the lifting mechanism and rollers from the elevator door as a drive. The rollers there are reliable and durable.

On the manufactured base you can install and electric drive lift A 300 - 500 W motor will be quite enough for simple repair work in the garage.

Such cranes are often used for the repair and reconstruction of old wooden houses. The construction of a log house will go faster if the logs are laid using a mobile homemade crane. In this case, the width of the frame is the length of the logs.

You can also make a simpler lift for the engine, on one support, watch the video.

For those who repair cars, a jack alone is not enough. To pull the engine out you need a crane. Of course, this option http://sdm-group.com.ua/catalog/mostoviekrani is not needed in the garage, but a smaller and modernized version, and also collapsible, will be useful to many car enthusiasts and not only.

And this is not an industrial product. This beam crane was made by some craftsmen in their garage with their own hands.

This photo shows the main dimensions

The main materials used were:
For a solid-drawn cross rod with a diameter of 100mm and a length of 4150mm
For rod supports, a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm (cut a piece 1200 mm long into two identical parts
Mounting bolts for supports to the rod M:16
The stands are made of square pipes 100x100mm length 2350 mm
The bevels and base are a 100x100mm corner
The rollers mounted on the crane beam are parts of the elevator door drive. They are attached to a 50mm strip of metal and overlap welded to the rod and to one of the rod supports.

The size of this beam crane was not chosen by chance. This model is designed to work with passenger cars.

The mobility of the structure is ensured by ordinary rollers from a storage container welded to the vertical posts.

The disassembled design of our beam crane takes up very little space.

The lifting mechanism is a conventional worm-type hand winch welded to a vertical post. Its carrying capacity is somewhere around 800kg. The drive is a steel cable. .

You can also adapt an electric winch if you wish, but there is no particular need for this.

The above construction is not a dogma. This version was produced under certain tasks and the material at hand. The engine of any passenger car can be pulled out easily; the Volga can be easily lifted by the hood. On sale, if you search, you can find a similar crane industrial production, but the price will be decent. The idea has been proposed to you, but whether you want to implement it is up to you.