So, let's take it in order, step by step:
1. First I made a hole in the middle of the piece. For this, a router (which is not necessary) and a drill were used. In any case, you can’t do without working with chisels here. With a drill, you can make auxiliary holes using simple and feather drills, after which you need to gouge out the middle with chisels. The depth should be at least as high as the light bulb you want to use.
2. At the second stage, the middle was burned out. A little gasoline (or any flammable mixture), a lighter and you're done. This is the easiest stage.
3. Next, I filled the prepared hole with epoxy resin, having previously inserted a mold with a diameter of about 70-80 mm into it. This can be any plastic, even, dimensional shape. You can also use PVC pipes, having previously covered one end with film and sealed it with aluminum tape.
4. At the fourth stage, we cut off all excess, again, using chisels, until the epoxy layer appears.
5. The final processing depends on your imagination and creativity. I sanded until there were small edges left, painted with black wood paint, sanded again and coated thin layer epoxy resin. There can be any variations.
In the end, all that remains is to make a hole for the cartridge and wire, plug it into a socket, turn it on and enjoy your work
That's all for today. Have a wonderful creativity!
If you have any questions, write, I will be glad to help!
Step by step instructions and video.
1. We make a silicone mold for casting a luminous element.
To do this, fix the cutting in a glass and fill it with silicone.
The cutting was pre-treated with VS-M silicone grease.
2. From a high distance, to reduce the number of bubbles, pour silicone. 
3. After the silicone has dried (approximately 30-40 minutes), remove the cutting. 
4. Prepare the handle: drill, clean, grind. 
5. Install the LED light bulb in the stalk. 
6. Place the cutting in a silicone mold and seal it with sealant. 
7. Prepare a mixture of epoxy resin and hardener for further pouring into the mold and pour it. 
8. After the composition has completely hardened, remove the workpiece. 
9. Check the performance of the LED lamp. 
10. We saw, grind, give the desired shape. 
11. Now let's make the stand. 
12. We have decided on the form, the material will be Liquid plastic Premium with white dye. 
13. Pour into the mold and fix the wires. 
Loss of fluidity time 4 minutes. Full cure 30 min.
Plug it into the USB connector! Ready
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LED lamp made of wood and epoxy resin
October 11, 2018
Specialization: master in construction plasterboard structures, finishing works and styling floor coverings. Installation of door and window units, finishing of facades, installation of electrical, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.
I want to tell you about interesting project LED lamp. Its unique design is suggested by nature itself, I just added electrical part and gave it a geometric shape.
Choosing wood
I had a cut cherry tree in my workshop, from which I cut electric jigsaw uneven edge. I will use it as the main material for the lamp design. I cleaned the tree bark with a brush to remove dust and stubborn dirt.
Stabilizing wood
The edge of the wood was slightly rotten, and in order to avoid deformation of the wood due to natural decay processes, I treated it with Minwax hardener. The composition penetrates deeply into the wood, and the special resin included in it strengthens and binds destroyed wood fibers.
Applying the composition paint brush, paying maximum attention to the cherry bark so that it is in the process further processing didn't fall off.
Leveling the surface
By using hand router and a roller slide I level the surface of the cherry cut.
Making a mold for filling
To create a mold to hold the epoxy resin around the wood cut, I make it from pieces of MDF. To do this, I cut 4 sidewalls and a bottom to fit the cut dimensions. I lubricate the inside of them with a thin layer of wax to facilitate release after pouring the epoxy resin. Then I assemble the body using glue gun, placing a cut of a tree inside.
Pouring epoxy resin
The epoxy had to be poured in 3 layers to prevent overheating. First, I mixed the resin in a cup, then poured it into the mold. I used a hair dryer to heat the resin to remove air bubbles. I poured in the next portion of resin again and warmed it up.
Removing the casting
After several days of resin hardening, I disassemble the mold and remove the formed panel.
Planing the surface
I use a planer to remove excess epoxy resin.
Grinding the surface
Using grinding machine and sanding wheels of different grits (from 60 to 220), I process the front surface of the future lamp.
Hand sanding
!
Romanian sculptor and designer Eduard Locota founded his original design studio with the goal of decorating homes modern man. The studio's collections are inspired by nature in general and seascapes in particular. Eduard Lokota makes each sculpture by hand. As a result, the objects are truly one of a kind. They are fascinating in their presentation of the primordial relationship between the hardness of rock and the fluidity of water. The designer combines sculptural elements with artistic features, blurring the line between art and function.
“Eduard Lokota currently lives and works in Timisoara, Romania.
He has been creating unique sculptures using epoxy resin, among other materials, for a relatively long time.
Some of his works sell for 1,100 euros.
Let's try to make a lamp similar to one of the designer's works.
The author took an oak block measuring 65 by 65 mm as a basis.
Then you need to decide which part of the lamp will be epoxy and which will remain in its original form (well, almost original).
To solve this dilemma, the master used the rule of harmonious proportion or, as it is also called, the rule of the golden section. This is a rule in which the larger part is to the smaller as the length of the entire object is to the larger part. In numbers, this ratio is approximately 1.62, and in order not to rack my brain with long calculations, the author decided to leave the wooden part 162 mm long and the epoxy part 100 mm long.
If you divide these two sections with just a straight line, it will be banal and not comme il faut at all. But if you use your imagination, you can come up with something like this.
I don’t think anyone is strong enough to break a block of wood in this way, so the author uses the so-called gouge drilling method.
The essence of the method is that the author of the homemade product, using screw (ordinary) drills for wood, drills a block under different angles drills of different diameters as needed. In this case, the worse it gets, the better, he says. Actually, this is the method of gouge drilling. He also warns anyone who decides to repeat this method that the drills cut into the wood quite quickly. This causes some inconvenience. The author recommends using a screwdriver rather than a drill at fairly low speeds.
After this, just a chisel and voila – the block is divided into 2 parts.
This beauty really looks like it was chewed by dogs. But in other ways it is impossible to achieve such a figured division of an oak (and quite thick and very durable) block.
Then the author, using a ruler and pencil, marks the center on both sides and drills with a thin drill on both sides. This is necessary for accuracy. The resulting hole will serve as a guide for a large diameter drill.
The boundary between the light source and the resin will be separated by a lens from an old lens. The diameter of the lens in the frame is 22 mm. To install it, you need to drill a small recess using a drill of the appropriate diameter.
WITH reverse side the author drills the workpiece with a real feather monster. The diameter of the drill is as much as 45 mm and at the very least the drill gnaws such a huge hole in an oak beam.
Next, the author begins to experimentally select the concentration of dye for the resins, choosing an interesting shade.
He also attaches the lens with resin.
Next, you need to prepare the form for filling. The author cut several pieces of acrylic to the size of the block and connected them together with household tape. This is necessary for waterproofing at the joints.
This is how a kind of formwork turned out.
To control the filling process, the author makes a transparent screen. He decided to make a kind of screen from the transparent plastic of a lid from children's paints.
While everyone is trying to get rid of small bubbles formed during the process of mixing and pouring the resin in order to get a transparent pour, the author decides to air the entire mixture full program and vice versa to get a bunch of bubbles. Therefore, violating the instructions, he began to actively mix the filling.
It's time to pour.
But all the bubbles began to leave the resin. But the most unpleasant thing is that the form began to leak. Even a bunch of rubber bands didn’t help, so it was decided to separate the pouring and the mold and take the resin out onto the balcony. The author left the mold soaked in resin in a warm place. The plan paid off. The resin deteriorated in the cold. The form was glued and became completely sealed. Moreover, bubbles no longer floated in the thick resin. After mixing well, it became possible to keep them there forever.
After 12 hours, the resin hardened and became rock hard.
Now you need to separate the pieces of acrylic and transparent plastic.
The author decided to add elegance and a unique feature to the homemade product, a little zest, so to speak.
All that remains is to fill the resulting pattern with resin.
It's time to start the sanding process.
To grind the workpiece, the author uses grinder. I started sanding with a 60 grit belt, then 150, 240 and 320. I finished it with 500 and 1000 grit paper.
This is what the surface looks like after sanding with 1000 grit.
Next is polishing. Using a felt wheel with a special polishing paste for plastic applied, begin polishing.
After sanding, the resin broke down in some of the grooves. Here you will need a small cosmetic repairs. For this purpose, regular quick-drying epoxy smog repair from a tube will do. It must be tinted to match the color of the fill and the glue hardens within 5 minutes.
