I have always been in awe of the sight of mountain peaks propping up the sky, washed by sunlight. Powerful, monumental, unshakable Atlanteans, breathing calm. And if I am faced with a choice between the sea, the forest and the huge rock masses, I will choose the latter without hesitation. The only things better than mountains are mountains!

And there are few places on the planet where I felt such inspiration as next to the majestic Andes. As part of the Cordillera mountain system that bisects the planet from the northernmost tips of Canada almost to Antarctica, the Andes proudly bear the responsibility of keeping the waters of the Pacific and Atlantic oceans in the southern hemisphere from mixing. The highest, longest, youngest mountains in the world. Rising to a height of almost 7,000 meters, dotted with dormant and waking volcanoes, this huge prehistoric creature stretches for 9,000 kilometers and plunges its southern edge into stormy waters, forming a complex pattern of straits and glaciers where ships have been lost for centuries. The Andes keep many secrets, mysteries and dangers: somewhere the Incan gold is hidden, somewhere planes crashed.

This is where I come back every time an airline like Iberia, Lufthansa or Turkish Airways announces a sale.

Northern Andes

In the north, the Andes rise above the tropical rainforests of Venezuela, Colombia and Ecuador; their character is difficult: the height of 4500-6000 meters and changeable weather require special skills from tourists. But you can choose a simpler option: rent a car and drive around the foothills of volcanoes and lakes, or take a ride on the longest cable car in the world (almost 2 kilometers) Teleferico de Merida in Venezuela.

Central Andes

In Peru and Bolivia, the Andes contain in their depths vast and fertile plateaus on which the Incas once built cities. But for me the main treasures of these places are the high-mountain lakes, deep like Titicaca and turned into salt marshes like. You can spend a stunning few days exploring the customs of the people of Taquile Island on Titicaca, where men knit from colored wool. Or spending the night on the reed-woven islands of Uros under the huge and bright stars at an altitude of 3800 meters. Or sweeping with the breeze across a huge pit of salt. Or coming up with the most incredible compositions for photography in a place where there is no perspective. And, of course, enjoying the most memorable sunsets of your life.

Southern Andes, Carretera Austral

The long and narrow strip of land called Chile and the endless Argentine pampas stretch along the Andean ridges, to the tops of which clouds cling. And they cling in the literal sense: rain clouds driven by Pacific winds cannot overcome the mountain barrier and shed precious moisture on the southern Chilean side (northern Chile, with the world's driest Atacama Desert, is not so lucky). The famous road built in the mid-1970s under Pinochet, the Carretera Austral, or “southern road,” winds here. This is one of the most picturesque and interesting routes I have ever traveled; it provides an opportunity to fully enjoy the beauty of mountain peaks, wild rivers, azure lakes and proud pine trees over 1,240 kilometers.

It is better to travel in the summer months (December to February), since at other times of the year the ferry crossings do not operate and you will not be able to enjoy all the delights of the trip. Therefore, feel free to plan a big vacation for the January holidays and then, in addition to the famous South Road, you will be able to see the huge Perito Moreno glacier, breathe in the famous Patagonian winds and find out why Tierra del Fuego is called so. By the way, the Northern and Central Andes are friendly to travelers all year round.

Where to start

The starting point of Carretera Austral is the Chilean city of Puerto Montt. This is a nice small settlement, imbued with a European spirit, from where tourists, after admiring the ancient cathedral made of mahogany, go to the Lake District, to the Villarrica volcano or to the island of Chiloe. Here you have to decide how you will conquer the Southern Road: the bravest ones hitchhike or ride bicycles, while the rest rent a car.

From Chiloe Island you can take a ferry to the town of Chaiten and head either north or south.

Another option is to start in the south, from the village of Villa O'Higgins, which can be reached by ferry from Argentina, which runs several times a week from November to March and takes only pedestrians or cyclists on board (costs about $60, or 40,000 pesos) , or by entrusting yourself to the care of a travel company. She will not only organize transportation to the ferry by bus, but will also offer to explore the glaciers on the lake “on the way” (the tour will cost from $130).

What to take with you

1. Regardless of which method of transportation you choose, you need to have a supply of provisions with you; you will find supermarkets only in relatively large settlements; in others populated areas– only village shops with a minimum set of products.
2. Don't forget a set of medications and essential supplies you need (from bandages to toothpaste and repellents). Carretera Austral is not a place where you can only take a passport and a credit card.
3. Comfortable clothing and shoes are a must as there are so many stunning, inviting places to explore!
4. There is plenty of cash in local currency (Chilean pesos), there are no ATMs until Coyahique, and cards are not accepted anywhere.

If you choose to travel on foot or by bike

Since the distances between populated areas and campsites are large, you will need:

• tent,
• sleeping bag (in the mountains, even in summer the nights are cold),
• gas burner,
• pot and dishes,
• and other camping equipment.

You can rent everything you need, including a bicycle, in Puerto Montt (the choice is very limited and the prices are very high) or in Santiago, where there are a huge number of rentals with good bicycles. To do this you will need to present your passport and bank card to retain the deposit (depending on the rental period from $250). Rental prices start from $30 per day or $120 per week.

If you decide to travel by car

You can rent a car in Puerto Montt or, as I did, in Santiago (in this case, you will need to set aside a few days to drive almost 1000 kilometers along the magnificent highway, stopping at wineries and visiting national parks).

1. Prepare, in addition to the usual rights, international law(some rental agencies will not issue a car without them) and, of course, a bank card with a sufficient amount in the account to block the deposit.
2. Explore the websites of rental companies to choose the best one suitable option. Under no circumstances should you look at small cars, only four-wheel drive! If possible, refuse the options for cars that look like they just came out of the showroom; choose a car that has undergone a baptism of fire, because small stones will inevitably fly on gravel roads.
3. To the south of Carretera Austral the Andes are filled with many magnificent landscapes, such as the famous Fitzroy Peak and the beauty of the Torres del Paine National Park. But, since some areas of the country are occupied by impassable mountains, part of the journey will have to be done through the territory of Argentina. To do this, you will need special documents for the car. Be sure to contact the rental agency in advance - documents for crossing the border take several days to prepare. And be prepared for the fact that you will be charged a fee of $200 for registration.
4. You will rarely see gas stations along the way, so take advantage of every opportunity to replenish your gasoline supplies.

So, you've saddled up a four-wheeled beast (I, for example, got a red pickup truck, on the hood of which someone was playing tic-tac-toe with a nail) and are ready for adventure.

By sea

At the very beginning of the journey, three ferries will be waiting for you, which will go around the sea to the inaccessible mountain slopes covered with dense forest (see map below). The first ferry leaves from La Arena every hour and costs about $15 (10,000 pesos) per car. In half an hour you will reach the peninsula, which can only be reached by sea. The second ferry departs from the village of Ornopien (which has several shops and overnight stops), located at the southern end of the peninsula, twice a day - in the morning and in the afternoon. It is better to check the schedule in Puerto Montt. This ferry takes 5 hours, the ticket costs $54 (35,000 pesos), and this price includes the third ferry, which departs when all passengers on the second ferry have safely covered 10 kilometers of gravel road.

By land

As a result of all sea ​​travel, during which majestic mountains, forests and waterfalls will float by, you will find yourself in the village of Caleto Gonzalo. From here, boldly head south, stopping at picturesque places and climbing deep into the mountains. You will travel at an average speed of 50 km/h, so you will not miss signs for recommended hiking trails to particularly beautiful and amazing natural treasures and numerous national parks.

Carretera Austral ends in a dead end in the village of Villa O'Higgins, from where you can cross to Argentina (only those traveling on foot or by bicycle are taken on the ferry), or return back if you are traveling by car.

Where next?

Along the entire Southern Road you will find several opportunities to cross the border with Argentina: near the village of Santa Lucia, near Lago las Torres park, the town of Coyaqui and before reaching Cochrane. I would highly recommend the latter option, as not only will you be able to see almost all of Carretera Austral, but you will also drive past a magnificent lake called Lago General Carrera in the Chilean part and Lago Buenos Aires in the Argentine part.

Tourist infrastructure

You can spend the night in campsites that are scattered throughout Carretera Austral, or in populated areas. Almost all locals rent rooms from $10 to $55 (8,000-35,000 pesos) per night for two and will be happy to feed you breakfast (not always for an additional fee). Free campsites are simply cleared sites. Those equipped with a toilet, hot shower and awnings will cost from $5 to $10 per night.

For example, on January 2, I stopped in the picturesque village of Via Cerro Castillo, where in the evening the entire large family of the hosts gathered for dinner. Despite my limited knowledge of Spanish, I was invited to share a meal with everyone and enjoy a wonderful evening. The men prepared a traditional dish - roasting a young lamb on a cross - a la cruz, and the women cut fresh vegetables and herbs. It was the most delicious lamb I've ever tasted in my life. And the glare of the fire on their open and friendly faces, songs accompanied by an accordion and majestic mountains under the shadow of the starry sky are forever etched in my memory.

Catering establishments are found only in the largest settlements: Ornopirene, Koyaki, Cochrane. In other places, the best you can hope for are small grocery stores. I usually tried to have a hearty breakfast and dinner where I spent the night (if the hosts didn’t cook, I asked permission to use the kitchen), and during the day, pre-prepared sandwiches helped me out.

Southern Andes, Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego

On the western edge of the Patagonian steppes rise Southern Andes. They are no longer as high as in the north, but no less beautiful. Along the entire foothills of the mountains lie delightful natural reserves, the main pearls of which are the giant Perito Moreno glacier, one of only two on planet Earth that is not decreasing, but growing, and Torres del Paine Park, the harsh beauty of which attracts travelers from all over the world. What wonders Patagonia has in store and how to get to them is well written.

And further south, the red grass of Tierra del Fuego rustles in the wind, where, according to legend, giants lived, and the Andes descend their peak-studded tail into the ocean, from which glaciers slide down like caps. Here, as the last stronghold of the mountains, Cape Horn rises from the water, and landing on it is a matter of luck. Few ships and fierce cold currents travel between this outpost with a lonely lighthouse and Argentina.

The Andes are multifaceted and unpredictable, they fascinate and make you fall in love; once you see them, you will come back again and again. After all, the only thing better than the mountains is the Andes!

The Andes, not to be confused with the Cordillera (link to article about the Cordillera), is the longest (9000 km) and one of the highest (Mount Aconcagua, 6962 m) mountain systems on Earth, bordering all of South America from the north and west; southern part of the Cordillera. In some places the Andes reach a width of over 500 km (the greatest width is up to 750 km in Central Andes Oh). The average height is about 4000 meters.

With glaciers on the limbs, active volcanoes along the ridge, chains of high snow-capped peaks, wet and dry tropical forests within, deserts and savanna in the lowlands and alpine tundra, the Andes is an extraordinary world of varied landscapes, extreme temperatures and diverse wildlife. Rising above the Pacific coast, this towering 5,000-mile mountain range spans seven countries, from Tierra del Fuego in the rugged south to the Caribbean coast in the north. It contains some of the highest, saltiest, wettest, and driest landscapes on the planet. Penguins, possums, hummingbirds, llamas, pumas, foxes, condors, spectacled bears, and many other species of wildlife inhabit these unlike worlds called the Andes.

Due to the considerable extent of the Andes, their individual landscape parts differ significantly from each other. By the nature of the relief and others natural differences As a rule, there are three main regions - Northern, Central and Southern Andes.

The name Andes is most often explained from the Incan word anta - "copper". This etymology is supported by the presence of a “copper belt” in the Andes, stretching for almost 4 thousand km, and the ability of the ancient Incas to smelt copper. According to another etymology of the Andes - from Quechua anti - “east”, which supposedly indicated the position of the mountains relative to Cusco, ancient capital Incas.

The Andes are a major interoceanic divide; Rivers of the basin flow east of the Andes Atlantic Ocean(in the Andes the Amazon itself and many of its large tributaries, as well as tributaries of the Orinoco, Paraguay, Parana, Magdalena River and Patagonia River originate), to the west - the basin Pacific Ocean(mostly short).

Considering the wide variety of different mountain peaks, both in height and in difficulty of climbing, the Andes are the most popular place for trekking and mountaineering among non-professionals, and the five highest peaks of the Andes look like this:
6962 meters - Aconcagua, Argentina
6891 meters - Ojos del Salado, Chile
6792 meters - Monte Pissis, Argentina
6770 meters - Mercedario, Argentina
6768 meters - Huascaran, Peru

The highest volcano is Llullaillaco (Spanish Llullaillaco), its 6,723 meters, located simultaneously in Argentina and Chile. But it’s easier to climb Cotopaxi (Spanish: Cotopaxi), located in Ecuador and having 5897 meters.
Of the most affordable six-thousanders in terms of money and difficulty, I would highlight

Copper Mountains - this is what the Incas call these longest mountains in the world. We are talking about the Andean Cordillera, known to us as the Andes. This mountain range is not comparable in length to any existing on our planet. The length of the Andes is about 9 thousand km. They originate from the Caribbean Sea and reach Tierra del Fuego.

Width and height of the Andes

Aconcagua (pictured below) is the most high peak Andean Cordillera. The height of the Andes at this point is 6962 meters. Aconcagua is located in Argentina. What are the predominant ones have a number of large peaks. Among them, it is worth noting Mount Ritakuva (5493 meters), El Libertador (6720 meters), Huascaran (6768 meters), Mercedario (6770 m), etc. There are areas where the mountains reach 500 km in width. As for their maximum width, it is about 750 km. Their main part is occupied by the Puna plateau, which has a very high snow line, which reaches 6500 m. The average height of the Andes is approximately 4000 m.

Age of the Andes and their formation

According to experts, these mountains are quite young. Several million years ago, the process of mountain building ended here. The emergence of fossils began in the Precambrian period. Land areas then began to appear in place of the vast ocean. The area where the modern Andean Cordillera is located, for a long time was sometimes sea, sometimes land, and the height of the Andes varied significantly. The mountain range completed its formation after the uplift of rocks. Huge folds consisting of stone, as a result of this process, extended to an impressive height. By the way, this process is not over. It continues in our time. Volcanic eruptions and earthquakes sometimes occur in the Andes.

Rivers originating in the Andes

The longest mountains on our planet are at the same time considered the largest interoceanic watershed. The famous Amazon originates precisely in the Andean Cordillera, as do its tributaries. It should also be noted that the tributaries of the major rivers of the states of Paraguay, Orinoco and Parana begin in the Andes. For the mainland, the mountains are a climatic barrier, that is, they protect the land from the west from the influence of the Atlantic Ocean, and from the east from the influence of the Pacific Ocean.

Relief

The Andes are very long, so it is not surprising that they are located six climatic zones. Unlike the southern slopes, the amount of precipitation on the western slopes is high. It reaches 10 thousand mm per year. Consequently, not only the height of the Andes, but also its landscape varies significantly.

The Andean Cordillera is divided into 3 regions according to its relief: Central, Northern and Southern Andes. The main Cordilleras are separated by the depressions of rivers such as the Magdalena and Cauca. There are many volcanoes located here. One of them, Huila, reaches a height of 5750 m. The other, Ruiz, rises to 5400 m. Kumbal, which is now active, reaches a height of 4890 m. The Ecuadorian Andes, classified as the Northern Andes, include a volcanic chain marked by the highest volcanoes. Chimborazo alone is worth something - it rises to 6267 m. The height of Cotopaxi is not much less - 5896 m. The highest point of the Ecuadorian Andes is Huascaran - 6769 m is the absolute height of the mountain. The Southern Andes are divided into Chilean-Argentine and Patagonian. The highest points in this part are Tupungato (about 6800 m) and Medcedario (6770 m). The snow line reaches six thousand meters here.

Volcano Llullaillaco

This is a very interesting active volcano located on the border of Argentina and Chile. It belongs to the Peruvian Andes (Western Cordillera range). This volcano is located in the Atacama Desert, which is one of the driest places on our planet. The absolute height of the Andes at this point is 6739 m. It is the highest of all active ones. In the area of ​​this volcano, the Andes mountains are very unique. Its relative height reaches 2.5 km. On the western slope of the volcano, the snow line exceeds 6.5 thousand m, which is its highest position on the planet.

Atacama Desert

This unusual place contains areas where it has never rained. The Atacama Desert is the driest place on Earth. The fact is that the rains cannot overcome so they fall on the other side of the mountains. The sands in this desert extend thousands of kilometers into the tropics. The cold fog rising by the sea is single source moisture for native plants.

San Rafael Glacier

One more thing interesting place, which I would like to talk about is the San Rafael glacier. It should be noted that in the south of the Alpine Cordillera, where it is located, it is very cold. At one time, this greatly surprised the pioneers, since the south of France and Venice lie at the same latitude in the northern hemisphere, and here they discovered the San Rafael glacier. It moves, cutting off the slopes of mountains, the peaks of which become sharper and steeper over time. It was only in 1962 that its source was discovered. A gigantic ice sheet cools the entire region.

Vegetation

The Andes are a unique place on our planet, and not only because of the impressive width and height of the mountains. The Andes are incredibly picturesque. IN different places they have their own flavor. In the Andes Mountains of Venezuela, for example, shrubs and deciduous forests grow on red soils. Equatorial and tropical rainforests cover the lower slopes from the Northwestern to Central Andes. Here you can find bananas, ficus trees, cocoa trees, palm trees, vines and bamboos. However, there are also rocky, lifeless spaces and many mossy swamps. In places where the average height of the Andes exceeds 4500 m, there is a region eternal ice and snow. The Andean Cordillera is known as the birthplace of coca, tomatoes, tobacco and potatoes.

Animal world

The fauna of these mountains is no less interesting. Llamas, alpacas, pudú deer, vicuñas, spectacled bears, blue foxes, sloths, hummingbirds, and chinchillas live here. Residents of our country can find all these animals only in zoos.

One of the features of the Andes is the large diversity of amphibian species (about 900). About 600 species of mammals live in the mountains, as well as about two thousand species of birds. The variety of freshwater fish is also great. There are about 400 species in local rivers.

Tourism and locals

The Andean Cordillera, apart from remote and rugged areas, is not an untouched corner of nature. Local residents cultivate almost every piece of land here. However, the road to the Andes for most tourists means “escape” from modernity. For centuries, these places have maintained an unchanged way of life, which allows tourists to feel like they are in the past.

Travelers can follow ancient Indian trails, where, however, sometimes they need to stop to let a herd of guanacos, sheep or goats pass ahead. No matter how many times you have already visited these local places, it is always fascinating. Meetings with local residents also turn out to be unforgettable. Their way of life is far from what we are used to. The huts in these places are built from rough bricks. Local residents often go without electricity. In order to get water, they go to the nearest stream.

Hiking in the mountains is not mountaineering in the usual sense of the word. Rather, these are walks along steep paths. However, they should only be performed by absolutely healthy and well-trained people who have special equipment.

The Andes Mountains are a unique mountain system stretching across almost the entire territory of South America. The Andes Mountains are the longest mountain system, its length is 9 thousand km. and also one of the highest, but still not the highest, but this is for now, because the mountains still continue to grow. We look at the famous Andes mountains. ( 11 photos)

The Andes Mountains completely, from the north and from the west, circled South America, located along the coast of the Atlantic Ocean. The Andes Mountains are relatively young; the history of their origin dates back to the Jurassic period. The Andes Mountains are one of the largest mountain systems formed during the last major era of the Earth's geological history.

As a result of the collision of three lithospheric plates, Nazca, Antarctic and South American, the first two sank under the larger South American, even in the history of the formation of mountains we see distinctive feature, usually the origin is the collision of no more than two plates. Surprisingly, seismic activity in the Andean pores continues to be traced to this day, that is, the mountains are actively growing. And their growth is more intense than all other mountain systems, which one way or another are increasing in size.

Thus, in a year the Andes grow by more than 10 cm, who knows, perhaps soon they will become the most high mountains world, but for now the dominant position is occupied by. A height of the Andes mountains is 6962 meters, the peak of the Andes mountains is a peak called Aconcagua. The average width of the mountains is 400 km, the widest point reaches 750 km. The Andes Mountains are conventionally divided into three zones: Northern, Central and Southern Andes.

Among all the other advantages of such impressive mountains, one more thing can be attributed: the Andes mountains are a line of conventional division; they separate water collections. The Andes are also the source of many large rivers and lakes; it is here that the famous river takes its source, which then spreads over hundreds of kilometers. The Andes Mountains have their own small lakes located right between the slopes, which either dry up or fill up again, depending on the time of year and precipitation. Andes Mountains coordinates 32°39′10″ S w. 70°00′40″ W. d. (G) (O) (I)32°39′10″ S w. 70°00′40″ W. d.

Due to the different climatic conditions in which the Andes are located, the mountains have unequal and dissimilar structures. So in the northern part of the Andes there are a large number of volcanoes, some of them are considered to be still active, and the central part is characterized by the sources of many rivers, the southern part of the Andes is characterized by low peaks and large glacial massifs, spread over almost most of this mountain system, the ice begins here already from a height of 1,400 meters.

Due to its impressive size, the Andes are located in 5 climatic zones simultaneously: equatorial, subequatorial, tropical, subtropical and temperate. The Andes also penetrate 7 countries of South America; the Andes are located on the territory of: Venezuela, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Chile and Argentina. Moreover, each country is proud of the location of one or another section of mountains on its territory.

Moreover, the Andes Mountains are also a rich reserve of various natural resources; in the Andes there are large deposits of non-ferrous metals: tin, lead, copper, zinc, etc. Active mining of iron and sodium nitrate is also carried out here, but gold deposits are of particular importance , silver, platinum and in some places precious stones(emeralds). The Andes also store oil and gas reserves. In general, the Andes are a real natural treasure trove for.

Today, in times of active tourism, when everyone can visit any corner of the planet if they wish, climbing the Andes is becoming widely popular. In some countries where the Andes are located, there are specialized centers that will prepare and guide you to admire the majestic slopes of the mountains. Of course, you won’t rise to a height of 6 km, but I think you don’t need such an unearthly height. To enjoy all the delights of the picturesque view, 1.5 km will be enough. It cannot be said that the Andes are particularly difficult to climb; some areas can be climbed without special climbing equipment.

Who would have thought that agricultural components could be grown in the mountains? Today at low mountain altitudes, up to 3.8 km. The following crops are actively grown and produced: coffee, tobacco, cotton, corn, wheat, potatoes, etc. Practice shows that on the moist and nutritious lands of the Andes, plants feel no worse than on the dry soil of the plains.

Throughout human history, people have associated mountains with something supernatural and powerful. Many writers have used mountains as inspiration. The Andes Mountains are a unique creation of nature, which is already known throughout the world, and to which thousands of tourists flock. We advise you to look at this miracle of nature. Stay tuned and enjoy your travels.

The Andes are a major interoceanic divide. To the east of the Andes flow the rivers of the Atlantic Ocean. The Amazon itself and many of its major tributaries, as well as tributaries of the Orinoco, Paraguay, Paraná, Magdalena River and Patagonian River, originate in the Andes. To the west of the Andes flow mostly short rivers belonging to the Pacific Ocean basin.

The Andes also serve as the most important climatic barrier in South America, isolating the territories to the west of the Main Cordillera from the influence of the Atlantic Ocean, and to the east from the influence of the Pacific Ocean.

The mountains lie in 5 climatic zones:

• equatorial,
• subequatorial,
• tropical,
• subtropical,
• moderate.

They are distinguished by sharp contrasts in the moisture content of the eastern (leeward) and western (windward) slopes.

Due to the considerable extent of the Andes, their individual landscape parts differ from each other. Based on the nature of the relief and other natural differences, as a rule, three main regions are distinguished - Northern, Central and Southern Andes.

The Andes stretch across the territories of 7 countries in South America:

• Venezuela,
• Colombia,
• Ecuador,
• Peru,
• Bolivia,
• Chile,
• Argentina.

Vegetation and soils

The soil and vegetation cover of the Andes is very diverse. This is due to the high altitudes of the mountains and the significant difference in moisture content between the western and eastern slopes. Altitudinal zonation in the Andes is clearly expressed. There are three altitudinal zones - Tierra Caliente, Tierra Fria and Tierra Elada.

The Andes of Venezuela are home to deciduous forests and shrubs on montane red soils.

The lower parts of the windward slopes from the Northwestern Andes to the Central Andes are covered with montane moist equatorial and tropical forests on lateritic soils (montane hylaea), as well as mixed forests of evergreen and deciduous species. The appearance of equatorial forests differs little from the appearance of these forests in the flat part of the continent; Characterized by various palm trees, ficuses, bananas, cocoa trees, etc.

Higher (up to altitudes of 2500-3000 m) the nature of the vegetation changes; typical are bamboos, tree ferns, coca bush (which is a source of cocaine), and cinchona.

Between 3000 m and 3800 m - high mountain hylea with stunted trees and shrubs; Epiphytes and lianas are widespread, bamboos, tree ferns, evergreen oaks, myrtaceae, and heathers are typical.

Higher up there is predominantly xerophytic vegetation, paramos, with numerous Asteraceae; moss swamps on flat areas and lifeless rocky areas on steep slopes.

Above 4500 m there is a belt of eternal snow and ice.

To the south, in the subtropical Chilean Andes - evergreen shrubs on brown soils.

In the Longitudinal Valley there are soils whose composition resembles chernozems.

Vegetation of the high mountain plateaus: in the north - mountain equatorial meadows of paramos, in the Peruvian Andes and in the east of Puna - dry high-mountain tropical steppes of the halka, in the west of Puna and throughout the Pacific west between 5-28 ° south latitude - desert types of vegetation (in the Atacama Desert - succulent vegetation and cacti). Many surfaces are saline, which prevents the development of vegetation; In such areas, mainly wormwood and ephedra are found.

Above 3000 m (up to about 4500 m) there is semi-desert vegetation called dry puna; grow dwarf shrubs(toloi), grasses (feather grass, reed grass), lichens, cacti.

East of the Cordillera Main, where there is more rainfall, - steppe vegetation(puna) with numerous grasses (fescue, feather grass, reed grass) and cushion-shaped shrubs.

On the humid slopes of the Eastern Cordillera, tropical forests (palm trees, cinchona) rise to 1500 m, low-growing evergreen forests with a predominance of bamboo, ferns, and lianas reach 3000 m; at higher altitudes there are high-mountain steppes.

A typical inhabitant of the Andean highlands is polylepis, a plant of the Rosaceae family, common in Colombia, Bolivia, Peru, Ecuador and Chile; these trees are also found at an altitude of 4500 m.

In central Chile the forests have been largely cleared; Once upon a time, forests rose along the Main Cordillera to heights of 2500-3000 m (higher up mountain meadows with alpine grasses and shrubs, as well as rare peat bogs began), but now the mountain slopes are practically bare. Nowadays, forests are found only in the form of individual groves (pines, araucarias, eucalyptus, beeches and plane trees, with gorse and geranium in the undergrowth).

On the slopes of the Patagonian Andes south of 38° S. - subarctic multi-tiered forests of tall trees and shrubs, mostly evergreen, on brown forest (podzolized to the south) soils; there are a lot of mosses, lichens and lianas in the forests; south of 42° S - mixed forests (in the area of ​​42° S there is an array of araucaria forests). Beeches, magnolias, tree ferns, tall conifers, and bamboos grow. On the eastern slopes of the Patagonian Andes there are mainly beech forests. In the extreme south of the Patagonian Andes there is tundra vegetation.

In the extreme southern part of the Andes, on Tierra del Fuego, forests (deciduous and evergreen trees- for example, southern beech and canelos) occupy only a narrow coastal strip in the west; Above the forest line, the snow belt begins almost immediately. In the east and in some places in the west, subantarctic mountain meadows and peatlands are common.

The Andes are the birthplace of cinchona, coca, tobacco, potatoes, tomatoes and other valuable plants.

Animal world

The fauna of the northern part of the Andes is included in the Brazilian zoogeographical region and is similar to the fauna of the adjacent plains.

The fauna of the Andes south of 5° south latitude belongs to the Chilean-Patagonian subregion. The Andean fauna in general is characterized by an abundance of endemic genera and species.

The Andes are home to llamas and alpacas (representatives of these two species are used local population for obtaining wool and meat, and also as pack animals), prehensile-tailed monkeys, relict spectacled bear, pudú and gaemal deer (which are endemic to the Andes), vicuña, guanaco, Azar's fox, sloths, chinchillas, marsupial possums, anteaters, degu rodents.

In the south - the blue fox, the Magellanic dog, the endemic rodent tuco-tuco, etc. There are many birds, among them hummingbirds, which are also found at altitudes above 4000 m, but are especially numerous and diverse in the “foggy forests” (tropical rainforests of Colombia, Ecuador , Peru, Bolivia and the extreme north-west of Argentina, located in the fog condensation zone); endemic condor, rising to a height of up to 7 thousand m; and others. Some species (such as chinchillas, which were intensively exterminated in the 19th - early 20th centuries for the sake of their skins; wingless grebes and the Titicaca whistler, found only near Lake Titicaca; etc.) are under threat of extinction.

A feature of the Andes is the great species diversity amphibians (over 900 species). Also in the Andes there are about 600 species of mammals (13% are endemic), over 1,700 species of birds (of which 33.6% are endemic) and about 400 species of freshwater fish (34.5% are endemic).

Ecology

One of the main environmental problems The Andes is deforestation, which is no longer renewed; Colombia's tropical rainforests have been particularly hard hit, and are being intensively converted into cinchona and cinchona plantations. coffee tree, rubber plants.

Possessing a developed agriculture, Andean countries face problems of soil degradation, soil contamination with chemicals, erosion, as well as desertification due to overgrazing (especially in Argentina).

Environmental problems of coastal zones - pollution sea ​​water near ports and large cities (caused not least by the release of sewage waste and industrial waste into the ocean), uncontrolled fishing in large volumes.

As throughout the world, in the Andes there is an acute problem of greenhouse gas emissions into the atmosphere (mainly during electricity generation, as well as in ferrous metallurgy enterprises). Significant contribution to pollution environment oil refineries also contribute oil wells and mines (their activities lead to soil erosion and groundwater pollution; the activities of mines in Patagonia have had a detrimental effect on the biota of the area).

Due to a number of environmental problems, many species of animals and plants in the Andes are in danger of extinction.

Attractions

• Lake Titicaca;
• Lauca National Park;
• Chiloe National Park; to Cape Horn National Park;
• Santa Fe de Bogota: Catholic churches XVI-XVIII centuries, National Museum of Colombia;
• Quito: Cathedral, Museum musical instruments, Museo Del Banco Central;
• Cusco: Cusco Cathedral, La Campanha Church, Haitun Rumiyoc Street (remains of Inca buildings);
• Lima: archaeological zones of Huaca Huallamarca and Huaca Pucllana, archbishop's palace, church and monastery of San Francisco;
• Archaeological complexes: Machu Picchu, Pachacamac, ruins of the city of Caral, Sacsayhuaman, Tambomachay, Pukapukara, Quenko, Pisac, Ollantaytambo, Moray, ruins of Pikilyakta.

• The capital of Bolivia, La Paz, is the highest capital in the world. It is located at an altitude of 3600 m above sea level.
• 200 km north of the city of Lima (Peru) are the ruins of the city of Caral - temples, amphitheaters, houses and pyramids. It is believed that Karal belonged to ancient civilization America and was built approximately 4000-4500 years ago. Archaeological excavations have shown that the city traded with large areas of the continent South America. It is especially interesting that archaeologists have not found any evidence of military conflicts for approximately a thousand years in the history of Caral.
• One of the most mysterious historical monuments in the world is the monumental archaeological complex of Sacsayhuaman, located northwest of Cusco, at an altitude of approximately 3,700 meters above sea level. The fortress of the same name in this complex is attributed to the Inca civilization. However, it has not yet been possible to establish how the stones of these walls, weighing up to 200 tons and fitted to each other with jeweler's precision. Also, the ancient system of underground passages has not yet been fully explored.
• The archaeological complex of Moray, located 74 kilometers from Cusco at an altitude of 3,500 meters, still arouses the admiration of not only archaeologists. Here, huge terraces, descending, form a kind of amphitheater. Research has shown that this structure was used by the Incas as an agricultural laboratory, since the different heights of the terraces made it possible to observe and experiment with plants in different climatic conditions. Here, different soils and a complex irrigation system were used; in total, the Incas grew 250 species of plants.

Inca Empire

The Inca Empire in the Andes is one of the most mysterious disappeared states. The tragic fate of a highly developed civilization that appeared in far from the most favorable natural conditions and died at the hands of illiterate aliens, still worries humanity.

The Age of Great Geographical Discovery (XV-XVII centuries) gave European adventurers the opportunity to quickly and fabulously get rich in new lands. Most often cruel and unprincipled, the conquistadors rushed to America not for the sake of scientific discoveries and cultural exchange between civilizations.

The fact that the papal throne recognized the Indians as spiritual beings in 1537 did not change anything in the methods of the conquistadors - they were not interested in theological disputes. By the time of the “humane” papal decision, the conquistador Francisco Pizarro had already managed to execute the Inca emperor Atahualpa (1533), defeat the Inca army and capture the capital of the empire, the city of Cusco (1536).

There is a version that at first the Indians mistook the Spaniards for gods. And it's quite possible that main reason This misconception was not caused by the white skin of the aliens, not by the fact that they sat astride unprecedented animals, and not even by the fact that they possessed firearms. The Incas were amazed by the incredible cruelty of the conquistadors.

At the first meeting of Pizarro and Atahualpa, the Spaniards ambushed them, killed thousands of Indians and captured the emperor, who did not expect anything like this at all. After all, the Indians, whom the Spaniards condemned for human sacrifices, believed that human life- the highest gift, and that is why human sacrifice to the gods was highest form worship. But to just kill thousands of people who didn’t come for war at all?

There is no doubt that the Incas could offer serious resistance to the Spaniards. After the murder of the captive Atahualpa, for whom the Indians paid a monstrous ransom - almost 6 tons of gold, the conquistadors began to plunder the country, mercilessly melting down works of Inca jewelry into ingots. But Atahualpa’s brother Manco, who they appointed as the new emperor, instead of collecting gold for the invaders, fled and led the fight against the Spaniards. The last emperor, Tupac Amaru, was executed by the Viceroy of Peru, Francisco de Toledo, only in 1572, and even after that, the leaders of new uprisings were named after him.

Little has survived from the Inca civilization to the present day - after the death of hundreds of thousands of Indians, both at the hands of the Spaniards and from work in the mines, famine, European epidemics, there was no one to keep things in order irrigation systems, high mountain roads, beautiful buildings. The Spaniards destroyed a lot to get building material.

The country, whose inhabitants were accustomed to supplies from public warehouses, in which there were no beggars or vagabonds, became a zone of human disaster for many years after the arrival of the conquistadors.

Different theories place the age of the Andes mountain system from 18 million years to several hundred million years. But, more importantly for the people living in the Andes, the formation of these mountains is still ongoing.

Earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, and glacier collapses in the Andes do not stop. In 1835, Charles Darwin observed the eruption of the Osorno volcano from the island of Chiloe. The earthquake described by Darwin destroyed the cities of Concepción and Talcahuano and claimed numerous victims. Such events are not uncommon in the Andes.

So, in 1970, a glacier in Peru literally buried the city of Yungay with almost all its inhabitants in seconds, killing about 20,000 people. In 2010, an earthquake in Chile claimed several hundred lives, left millions homeless and caused enormous property damage. In general, serious disasters occur in the Andes with a frightening cyclicity - once every 10-15 years.