It is impossible to equip a roofing system without sheathing, the laying of which is carried out on top of the rafters. It serves as a direct attachment point for the finishing roof sheathing.

What is the roof made of?

Thanks to the roof, the building not only receives a decorated appearance: it is also assigned a protective function to prevent rain, snow, heat and cold from entering the ceilings. In addition, the roof significantly reduces the impact Wastewater on walls and basement surfaces, which significantly increases their service life. Most often, there are 2 or 4 slopes on the roof of a building: the second design involves several arrangement options.

The composition of a conventional gable roof includes:

• Rafters. To connect these vertical or horizontal supports, they usually use gusset equipped with bolts and brackets.
• Mauerlat. This beam is located in a horizontal position. It rests on individual elements of the rafters.
• Overhangs. This is what the lower sections of the rafters are called.
• Horse. It is located on top of the structure, in the area where the rafters meet.
• Lathing, counter-lattice. Basic parts for installation roofing materials and insulation.
• Waterproofing and insulating materials. With their help, warm attics are equipped.
• Roof decking. Can be hard or soft.

In general, roofing is divided into cold and warm subspecies. The first option involves laying thermal insulation in the attic space: the roof in this scheme is not insulated. The second method involves laying insulation and waterproofing. This approach is mainly used for the design of attic residential floors.

Purpose of sheathing in a roofing system

Thanks to the lathing, the following tasks are achieved:

1. Happening reliable fastening roofing materials.
2. In this case, the space between the roof and the insulation is well ventilated: this is especially important for adjacent areas of warm and cold roofing layers.
3. It is convenient to attach a layer of insulation and waterproofing to the roof sheathing.
4. The rafter system receives protection from excessive load in cases of heavy snowfall.

What tools and materials will be needed

Before lathing the roof, you should prepare the following tools and materials:

1. First grade wooden beam, 6 m long, without knots or other defects. The cross section is selected depending on what finishing material will apply. For metal tiles you will need products with a cross section of 50x50 mm; a metal roof is equipped with 60x40 mm timber. Ceramic tiles are laid on a beam with a square section of 75x75.
2. Edged board 25x100 mm, 6 m long. Small flaws in the form of rare knots are allowed here. In some cases, it is necessary to replace the boards with OSB boards, plywood or chipboard panels.
3. Hacksaw, chainsaw.
4. Polyurethane foam.
5. Hammer, perforator.
6. Large bolts and nuts. Fastening is also carried out with staples and nails.
7. Construction level, tape measure.

Types of roofing sheathing

When studying the question of how to properly frame a roof, it is important to know about the most popular system designs. Choice suitable option lathing directly depends on the roofing material used.

There are two main types of lathing:

1. Solid. When laying the beams, a gap of 10 mm is assumed. A continuous sheathing is usually constructed under soft tiles, roll laying, flat slate or metal tiles. To give the roof additional reliability, the structure is fixed on top of the eaves overhangs, as well as in areas where the slopes adjoin. When choosing this sheathing, you need to prepare for a significant consumption of material.
2. Sparse. The gap between the timber in this case can reach several centimeters, which is very convenient for installation natural tiles, metal sheets and wave slate.

We install the roof sheathing with our own hands

After the rafter system is fully equipped, a careful measurement of the roof is carried out. This is done using a rope, which simplifies the measurement of diagonals. When comparing two indicators, it is desirable that they do not differ from each other by more than 20 mm. If this tolerance is exceeded, subsequent work may encounter certain difficulties. Next, vapor barrier and insulation is installed, in the form of mineral wool or other suitable material.

Do-it-yourself roof sheathing is assembled on top of previously laid waterproofing film, when laying which an overlap of 15 cm is observed. It is most convenient to mount the canvases from the top and down, taking the rafters as the directions. A construction stapler is suitable for attaching the film. The slats are stuffed on top of the rafters to create a counter-lattice.

It is important not to forget about the ventilation gaps separating the film and the roofing material being laid. Simply put, when laying down film, it is important to leave some slack. The same method is used to separate the film and insulation. To simplify the task of how to properly make a roof sheathing, a sheathing template is used, which is designed to strictly adhere to design parameters.

If a soft roof is being laid, then the installation of the sheathing elements is carried out using the method of leveling and joining. To avoid subsequent deformation, the solid structure must be fastened with special care, using at least two nails on each beam.

How to attach under rolled material

To lay rolled sheets, you will need a continuous roofing sheathing made from beams and boards with a thickness of at least 25 mm. In this case, the flooring must be laid tightly, without cracks. The sheathing pitch is chosen to be no less than 15 cm, otherwise the roofing material will begin to deform. It is important to achieve an ideal smoothness of the sheathing surface, with the obligatory recessing of the nail heads and screws deep into the wood.

How to make a soft roof

Installation of soft type roof sheathing is most common due to the high popularity of this roof. This material is inexpensive, and it is very easy to install. Here you will also need to equip a continuous type of sheathing, which is equipped with a special calibrated board. This installation has a two-layer structure, ensuring maximum evenness of the joints.

In these conditions, tongue-and-groove boards and roofing plywood, which have undergone preliminary antiseptic impregnation, have proven themselves well. To avoid damage to the soft roof in corner areas, the ends of the boards must be rounded.

Under the tiles

According to experts, it is tiled roofs that have the most optimal performance characteristics in terms of quality and durability. Usually these are single-layer structures, the sheathing for which is made of bars with a cross-section of at least 6 cm.

The laying step is based on the dimensions of the tiles used. Some situations require the creation of double sheathing from the same material. To achieve uniform fit of the tiles, it is necessary to build the most even plane of the structure. This implies using timber of the same size.

What is the difference between lathing for slate and metal tiles?

To arrange the sheathing, we can use one or two layers of laying. The first option involves the use of timber with a square cross-section of 50 mm. Optimal step in this case - 50 cm, with elements laid in a parallel direction to the ridge. If a unified profile is used instead of the usual corrugated slate, the pitch can be increased to 80 cm, with the section of the beam increasing to 75 mm. The main thing is that there are at least three crossbars under each slate span.

The cornice is loaded the most in this design, so its thickness should be increased. Ridges and overhangs are decorated with continuous decking. To achieve uniform load distribution and density sheet laying, even bars are made 30 mm thicker than odd ones. In order for the structure to last as long as possible, before attaching the sheathing to the roof, all of it wooden parts needs to be processed special compounds fire-fighting and antiseptic action (more details: “How and with what to treat rafters and sheathing - choose an antiseptic”). To apply them you will need a paint brush: impregnation is carried out in two layers.

To test the quality of a fire-fighting substance, it is enough to chop off a small piece of treated wood and try to set it on fire. A well-protected material ignites only when it is exposed to an open flame: once it is removed, the substance immediately dies out.

Proper design and arrangement of the roof will be the key to both the aesthetic beauty of the house and its protection from all external influences. At the same time, it is important to achieve good quality each individual part roofing structure. The lathing, despite its inconspicuousness, plays a very important role, so when arranging it it is important to comply with all necessary requirements and standards on how to make roof sheathing. Particular attention is paid to the selection of suitable building materials of appropriate quality.

Roof sheathing: how to fasten it, installation on the roof, how to make a proper roof sheathing with your own hands

Roof sheathing: how to fasten it, installation on the roof, how to make a proper roof sheathing with your own hands

Roof sheathing: we create it ourselves

Build a beautiful one, cozy home for a family it’s a city dweller’s dream. Having studied all the intricacies of the art of construction, you will be able to bring your idea to life. But, during the work, one of the main questions will be - how to make a roof sheathing? Approach it correctly, because the protective and aesthetic properties of the roof depend on the quality of workmanship.

The need to create a frame

Before moving on to listing the types of roof sheathing, understand what sheathing is and what it is used for. The lathing used for the roof of private buildings is a structure made of wooden beams and boards. The roofing system installation process is necessary to:

• evenly distribute the load of a person walking on the surface during its maintenance;
• securely fix the materials - use a frame welded from metal or made of wood for the sheathing;
• correctly create a ventilation space between the ceiling and the waterproofing, which protects the building from condensation;
• promptly prevent the accumulation of moisture at the boundary between warm and cold roofing layers;
• fully ensure the protection of rafters from the effects of weather precipitation (snow and ice).

The number of layers that the sheathing has will depend on the slope of the roof. For a pitched roof, a horizontal single-layer covering is sufficient. The two-layer method involves working with lower load-bearing beams, fixed in increments of 50-100 cm. A layer of plywood or wooden planks is attached on top of it. This technique will allow you to save material and even out the errors in the rafter system using roof sheathing.

Types of roof frames

The roofing needs a reliable and durable surface on which it will be laid. An incorrect construction algorithm will lead to deformations and a lack of protective functions of the home during bad weather.

Depending on the number and frequency of mounted planks, the type of material used, and the angle of inclination, the frame is divided into the following types:

1. Double layer. Used when maximum structural strengthening is required. The first layer is laid with a large step, and the second - with a normal or without gap.
2. Solid. It is carried out at intervals of about 1 cm and prevents the appearance of deformations when the wood shrinks or swells.
3. Normal, in increments of 20-40 cm. Mainly used to reinforce the coating of metal profile sheets.
4. Sparse. The gaps between the boards reach 75 cm. Used for lightweight floors.

To choose the right required material, purchase tools, you need to draw up a drawing of the sheathing and carry out preparatory manipulations.

Materials and tools used

Choosing a floor material to cover a building is difficult. Slate, corrugated sheeting, tiles - which of these positions is suitable for covering? It all depends on your desires and financial capabilities.

Cost calculation

To find out how to make the lathing correctly, you need to carry out calculations. The basic rule of construction is accurate planning of costs and quantities of raw materials. For calculations you will need the following data:

• roof size;
• material type;
• roofing structure.

If independent design seems like a daunting task, use an online program. Enter the size of the coating, all known parameters of the materials used - the program will automatically perform the calculation.

Purchasing building materials for wooden sheathing

Use seasoned wood with no visible defects. The presence of knots and cracks can lead to a violation of the integrity of the structure and subsequent destruction. Used for work following materials and tools:

• wooden beam with a section of 50×50, 60×60, 75×75 mm;
• edged boards for the sheathing with a section of 150×20, 150×50 mm;
• fastening elements (screws, nails) with a length twice the size of the timber;
• level, pencil, tape measure for marking;
• circular saw used for cutting roofing material;
• a hammer for nails or a screwdriver if self-tapping screws are used.

The lumber must be marked and cut according to the drawing. If electrical equipment is not available, you can buy or rent it.

Execution technology installation work

Having completed preliminary calculations by making a purchase necessary materials and tools, you can begin installation. For different types there are separate floorings technological nuances. But the general production order is as follows:

1. Carefully measure the roof after the rafter frame is installed. To do this, you need to check the diagonals along all slopes with a nylon cord. Deviations should not exceed 20 mm, because the run-up will cause difficulties during further fastening of the roof.
2. Treat all wooden elements with antiseptic solutions to avoid rotting and insect damage.
3. Place waterproofing materials on the rafters.
4. Install the bottom strips. Use large cross-section timber for these purposes.
5. Continue work, laying boards at the selected spacing. For each type of flooring it is selected individually. An incorrectly performed step can lead to weakening of the entire structure.
6. If it is necessary to carry out insulation, place on the first layer mineral wool, and, after this, a second layer of sheathing can be made.
7. Lay the end boards next to each other to use them for later decoration of the ridge.
8. Fasten on both sides, and if the overhang is large, perform additional fixation.

These rules should be followed when installing a frame under any type of roofing material. But there are minor features.

Features of moisture protection of sheathing

To create a waterproofing layer, vapor barrier or hydrobarrier materials are used. When working with them, an overlap of 10-15 cm should be maintained. The waterproofing is installed in the direction from the eaves to the ridges, with slight tension. Ventilation holes are formed due to the sagging of the film material, which is secured with a construction stapler.

How to make sheathing for corrugated sheets?

The roof sheathing under corrugated sheets differs in some nuances. The profile sheet has a large load - a person can walk on it without fear of falling through. When working with a profiled sheet, consider several important nuances:

• For a roof made of corrugated sheets, it is necessary to strictly maintain the spacing between the boards. Its distance can be varied from 50 to 150 cm, focusing on the wave of the material and its marking (sheets with the H index will be optimal for roofing systems);
• When using sheets with a height of less than 35 millimeters for work, the step should be kept to a minimum. This will increase the strength and rigidity of the coating;
• standard parameters wooden planks less than the size of the slope, so it is necessary to splice them;
• in the horizontal planes, the joints must be shifted to prevent weakening of the structure;
• For corrugated sheets, special fasteners are used - galvanized self-tapping screws with rubber washers that prevent the sheets from being crushed during fastening. The connection is made using rivets.

If a pitched roof with a slight slope was built from a profile sheet, you need to make a solid frame from boards 60-70 mm wide. The nail heads are recessed as much as possible. The sheathing board is laid strictly at an angle of 45 degrees. Only well-dried wood is used so that warping does not occur when it is placed tightly.

Lathing for slate roofing - specifics

For sheathing under slate, it is advisable to purchase beams with a larger cross-section. Three beams must be placed under each sheet to evenly distribute the load. Fastening is done with special slate nails in the places where the wave touches the wood. Use lumber without bending to ensure a tight, gap-free fit of the slate sheet.

Making a frame for metal tiles

In addition to profile sheets, there is another type of durable and durable coating - metal tiles. When building a house, it is placed in a single-layer manner. The lathing can be made by stuffing bars with a cross-section larger than 1 mm onto the rafters. The pitch of the structure depends on the parameters of the tile. To ensure a uniform fit of the roof, the frame is made as even as possible. The position of the boards is checked by a level.

Benefits of self-building

Roofing installed in accordance with the requirements technological process, will last for many years, will save your home from destruction. After studying the recommendations on the issue, you can perform labor-intensive tasks yourself. Having carried out a set of measurements with the required accuracy and followed the installation recommendations, you will receive a high-quality and durable protection from all kinds of adversity, ensure peace and comfort of living in a country house.

Roof sheathing: how to make and install it yourself?

Roof sheathing: creating a frame, types of roofing frames, materials and tools used, sheathing for various types roofs

To do it right calculate and set the diagonal of the foundation or formwork foundation - it’s very good to hire specialists. But if you have already seen the program several times “ square meter”, heard a conversation several times about how to build, and also a bunch of jokes about construction? - another thing. This gives us “every right” to assume that we ourselves can cope with this simple matter, like the corners and diagonals of the foundation formwork. This is exactly the high opinion of himself that everyone who plans to build a bathhouse with their own hands (Ha-ha!)

I wrote about the beginning of marking and designing the foundation and formwork in the article. At the time of driving in the stakes and installing the outer formwork boards, I already checked the length of the diagonal. Everything converged down to the millimeter. This is the most important condition for obtaining right angles for a bathhouse log. But after the first marking, there were manipulations with installing the bottom of the grillage, installing internal formwork panels, and finishing the formwork of the columns from ground level to the bottom of the future foundation. Of course, I tried very hard not to move anything, and drove the stakes deep.

But as with any construction project, something went wrong. It's not as scary as if I didn't notice it or I didn't know about it. Therefore, before laying the reinforcement, I decided to check the diagonals again. The difference was 2 cm. It’s good that it was discovered before the concrete was poured.

How to display the diagonal of the formwork?

To simplify the construction of the correct formwork, I made the length of the walls absolutely equal. Therefore, the distortion can only be in the form of a diamond. In the figure, the degree of skew of the formwork is deliberately increased for clarity.
To correct the situation, we did this:

This combined movement of one side of the formwork (north side in the picture) was not too difficult since the stakes and the original arrangement of the formwork were in the correct position. Therefore, the diagonal displacement was minimal and efforts to “adjust” the position of the shields did not cause mechanical stress and effort.

The method of setting angles along equal diagonals can only be used if the sides are equal. Diagonal Equalities will be sufficient!

For formwork sides with large size It is possible to apply the golden triangle rule. If such a triangle, according to the Pythagorean theorem, has sides 3, 4, then the hypotenuse is equal to 5 units. Thus, it is enough to measure on the sides of the formwork parts that are multiples of 3 and 4 at the top right angle and then the distance between the control points will be 5 parts! This will guarantee right angles and equality of diagonals!

For proper planning formwork installation I highly recommend using the stripping method, which allows you to check corners, remove and reinstall foundation perimeter cords at any time during installation work.

Before pouring the foundation, do not be too lazy to check the diagonals again. It won't be superfluous! Concrete cannot be fixed easily or quickly. Errors are very expensive and time-consuming to correct. The foundation for a log house has more quality requirements than the foundation for a stone house. Nothing can be leveled with mortar!

Don't forget to remove it before pouring for easy removal!

Larisa Georgievna Bakanova

I have a house in a village in the Volkhov district. Roof repair and installation needed to be done drainpipes and gutters.
I contacted the Verkh Stroy company. The surveyor promptly went to the site and took all the necessary measurements. The next day the contract and estimate were ready. The quality material was delivered on time. The work was done quickly, the roofers were wonderful, they had golden hands, they were professionals, it was easy to communicate, they resolved all issues constructively. Working with galvanized iron is difficult, they did it perfectly, I am very pleased, the roof is beautiful, the gutters look great. I am very pleased. I recommend this company to everyone.

Sincerely, L.G. Bakanova 06/05/2013

Leningrad region, Volkhov district, Seliverstovo village, private house

Galkin Petr Ivanovich

For roof restoration and replacement country house I contacted Verkh Stroy (I found information and reviews about them on the Internet).

The roof repair work was a success. The attitude of the team of workers towards the fulfillment of contractual obligations and the quality of work performed is at a good level. Thank you!

LO, Vsevolozhsk district, village. Priyutino, Gardening "Granite", country house

Andrey Anatolyevich Mishchenko

We contacted the Verkh Stroy company about emergency roof insulation. The work was completed quickly and efficiently and was completed on time, as agreed. The team was Russian. Communication is businesslike and polite. I recommend this company to anyone looking for real professionals! Thank you very much!

Leningrad region, Priozersky district, Torfyanoe village, private cottage

Chairman of the Board of Homeowners Association "Graftio" Ishchenko Svetlana Nikolaevna

In September 2012, the Graftio HOA needed to repair the soft roof on an area of ​​70 sq. m. We considered 6 (six) contracting organizations, incl. "Top Stroy"
At our request, Master V.Yu. Chernykh came to our site. An on-site examination of the roof was carried out and promptly drawn up Commercial offer, which suited us completely.
Directly roofing work supervised by I.M. Poknya
The work was completed in full, quickly and efficiently. There are no more leaks observed.
Our HOA expresses gratitude to the Verkh Stroy company and we look forward to further cooperation.

Multi-storey residential building, St. Petersburg, Graftio street, 3

Tumilyanis Andrey Vladimirovich

Thank you for your service. The roof was leaking. Repaired with TechnoNIKOL welding material. To the old one bitumen shingles, a new layer of 130 m2 was deposited. Very prompt. They communicate politely. Punctuality is super! Everything is fine, thanks for the work!
10/11/2012
Leningrad Region Volodarsky village, private cottage

Natalya Anatolyevna Lobasova

I rated the work of the Verkh Stroy company’s craftsmen as 5+. They worked quickly (two days), efficiently, and carefully. I am very pleased with the work done. Pleasant to talk to. Work in any weather conditions. I don’t think I could have found better masters.
Roof covering with ondulin 85 m2.

mn. Berndgardovka, country house.

The repair of the roof of the container was completed without any comments and on time. I have no complaints about the quality.
09/01/2012
Chudinovskikh V.A. Mechanic "Amron"

Malysheva Nadezhda Viktorovna

In August 2012 We contacted the Verkh Stroy company about repairing the roof of a country house by logging into their website and sending a preliminary application. I wanted to find competent specialists. Everything that was offered to us before was alarming with an unprofessional approach. On the very first working day, the company manager called and informed me about the cost of the work and sent me a contract. The Master promptly arrived on site, took into account all our wishes and professionally and unobtrusively advised us to correct them. We decided everything on the spot. The next day the new agreement was ready.

The company promptly purchased and delivered the material. A professional Russian team completed the dismantling of slate, repair of sheathing, installation of metal tiles, installation of gutters, and carefully stored the waste on time and with high quality.
I had to work during the rainy season, but what was especially pleasing was that the company covered the house with an awning at night in any weather, relieving any stress on the customer.
We were pleased.
Sincerely, Malysheva N.V.
Dacha cooperative in Sosnovy Bor.

Alexey Alexandrovich Shiryaev

I contacted the Verkh Stroy company to re-roof a country house of 237 m2. The possible types of work were explained very clearly and constructively. Together with the master, we chose the most optimal option from a price-quality point of view.

The Verkh Stroy company took over all organizational work, coordination and delivery of materials.
The roofing installation work was carried out within the agreed time frame.
Competent specialists and managers are focused on results and ensuring that the Customer likes their work.
Thanks a lot!

Replacing old slate with bitumen shingles at the dacha in the village. LO ends

Kirill Stepanovich Golubev

Thank you for your conscientious work. The roof was done quickly and efficiently, the roofing material was removed, the sheathing was repaired and corrugated sheeting was laid. We completed it in two weeks, as agreed.

Private house, Luzhki LO

Maria Guzhel

We contacted the Verkh Stroy company to rebuild the roof of our 82 m2 dacha. We removed the old slate and made an ondulin coating. Now we can open the season. Prices are reasonable. The best offer I found. They were afraid that migrant workers would come, but Russian guys worked. You are just great! Thank you!

Gardening "Dvizhenets" Kirovsky district Leningrad region

Good afternoon
Please tell me what to do correctly.
Flooded strip foundation on the 16th reinforcement, 62-64 centimeters wide to a depth of 2 meters 10 centimeters. Dimensions along the outer perimeter are 11 meters by 12 meters 60 centimeters. With a middle tape under a load-bearing partition 62 centimeters wide for laying floor slabs PP-63 and PP-54. It is planned to build a three-story house from aerated concrete blocks with a width of (400*600*250 mm) or (450*600*250 mm), with insulation external wall— 50mm basalt insulation, air gap-20 mm, finishing brick -120 mm.
During the installation of the foundation of the protruding element of the octagonal “bay window” sector (protrusion beyond the dimensions of the foundation 11 * 12.6 meters along the wide half of the PP-63 foundation) for the halls. The diagonal of the foundation was increased by 18 centimeters while controlling the dimensions of the diagonal perimeter of 11*12.6 meters.
The support of the floor slab on the walls is planned to be 200 mm.
I kindly ask you to give professional advice:
1. Is it worth trying to level the diagonals by installing an overhanging masonry made of solid ordinary brick with a hardness of 200 with mesh reinforcement and a maximum of how many centimeters?
There is a fear that under the weight of the facing brick, the overhanging part of the widening above the foundation will deform and the cladding of 3 floors will crack
2. Limit yourself to a large overhang of 3-5 cm to compensate for the diagonals with the subsequent construction of the structure.
3. What deviations of diagonals are allowed for such building sizes in construction?
4. What consequences can there be if diagonal compensation is not applied when installing floor slabs, will the load-bearing capacity of the building change??? How to carry out external finishing when facing facing bricks. Nikolay

Hello, Nikolay!

1. Aligning the diagonals makes sense, since the loss of a right angle can lead to difficulties in performing a number of works - from facade masonry to roofing and finishing.

Most reliable way align diagonals - do monolithic belt at the level of the basement of the building. The outer contour of the belt should clearly form the desired geometry of the facade. The task of the internal contour is to ensure the possibility of constructing the main walls from aerated concrete blocks at right angles.

The height of such a belt should be taken within the range of 200-300 mm. Longitudinal reinforcement – ​​at least 6 reinforcing bars with a diameter of 12 mm of class A-III (A400). Since such a belt will have side overhangs (due to which the geometry will be adjusted), transverse reinforcement in such places should be performed with closed-section clamps made of reinforcement with a diameter of 8 mm A-I (A240) with a pitch of 100 mm in places of overhangs and 400 mm at other areas.

An example of reinforcement of a belt with 6 longitudinal rods and transverse clamps of a closed section

The belt should be supported on the walls of the underground, made, for example, with masonry made of red (clay) bricks or FBS blocks. The width of the belt must be sufficient to install a wall structure on it (not less than the sum of: 120 mm of cladding + 20 mm of gap + 50 mm of insulation + 400 or 450 mm of masonry from aerated concrete blocks).

To avoid deformation of the cladding, the façade masonry must be securely anchored into the main wall.

An example of anchoring façade masonry (in your case, different insulation and less ventilation gap, but the essence is the same) with a flexible connection “Galen” BPA L-6-2P with a pitch of 500x500 mm

1. For small overhangs, you can limit yourself to reinforced masonry solid brick a fairly high strength grade (M200 is suitable). But in this case it will be possible to only partially correct the geometry, which will complicate the implementation further work. In addition, this grade of strength is typical for white (silicate) bricks, which are not intended for laying underground parts of walls. Red (clay) brick, often used for these purposes, is less durable.
2. Deviations in geometric dimensions during the construction of walls made of brickwork are regulated by the requirements of SP 70.13330.2012 “Load-bearing and enclosing structures,” in particular Table 9.8.

Dimensional tolerances for stone structures

As can be seen from the table, the deviation of the walls from the alignment axes (that is, in plan) should not exceed 10 mm. There is no standard prohibiting making a building in a diamond-shaped or trapezoidal shape (that is, figures with different diagonals).

1. If you do not compensate for the differences in diagonals, the main consequences will be as follows: difficulties with the construction facing masonry(in corners), wedge-shaped trims flooring material(with the correct geometric design it will be obvious), possible problems when joining the roofing material (depending on the roof configuration), etc. Measures to correct geometry will pay off handsomely.

If the depth of support of the floor slabs along the entire length of the supporting part is not less than required (90 mm for reinforced concrete and 120 mm for brickwork), reducing the reliability of the building in terms of load-bearing structures will not happen. Do not forget to anchor the floor slabs to each other and to the masonry.

With all the variety of roofing materials, the construction of roofs is not much different from each other. They are united by common rules.
Rule 1. Stingrays gable roofs must have the shape of a regular rectangle, slopes hip roofs- the shape of isosceles trapezoids and isosceles triangles.
This requirement is due to the fact that almost all piece elements of roofing coverings have rectangular shape. When laying them on a slope that does not have right angles, for example, having a diamond-shaped outline, you will inevitably end up with an open wedge. It is possible to close such a wedge only by cutting and adjusting piece roofing materials, which creates additional difficulties, increases the consumption of materials, reduces the speed of construction and, finally, simply spoils the appearance of the building. But most importantly- greatly increases the possibility of roof leakage.
Isosceles slopes of hip roofs make it possible to cut roofing materials according to one or two templates, and use the halves of some roofing materials on opposite sides of the slope. For example, an asbestos-cement corrugated sheet, cut diagonally, can be used on both sides of the slope. If, by design or as a result of negligence, slopes roofs have different angles of inclination, cutting of piece elements is carried out individually. Eventually- the speed of work is significantly reduced, and there is no talk of any savings in building materials.
For getting correct forms slopes, you first need to measure the length, width, diagonals and heights of the rebuilt building frame. Here a lot of unexpected surprises can open up for the developer. The building's plan can take the shape of a rhombus or trapezoid. Height differences on opposite walls can reach several centimeters. Such errors are formed not only due to carelessly performed work on the construction of walls. They could arise due to the fact that different angles when cutting wood or masonry brick walls there were unemployed masons or carpenters. For example, two ineffective masons, constantly standing at opposite corners of the masonry, can give an error of 1 cm per 1 m of height simply because one has a masonry seam 1 mm thicker, and this despite the fact that both are good masons. What then can we say about amateurs, who will have errors not only in height, but also in linear dimensions due to the obstruction of the corners outward and inward. After taking measurements, it is necessary to eliminate, if possible, the identified wall defects. In order for the roof ridge to be strictly horizontal and the roof slope to lie in the same plane with the horizon, a number of measures are taken to construct the rafter system. Mauerlat and bench for layered rafters and lining for hanging rafters set according to the water level (Fig. 1), thereby achieving their horizontality.

Then measure the distance between the Mauerlat and the leg (it should be the same) (Fig. 2) and check the diagonals. If necessary, the design is corrected. The pads under the hanging rafters are checked in the same way - they measure the distance between them and diagonally.

This preparatory stage sometimes takes a lot of time, but the more carefully it is done, the easier it will be build a roof. The bench can be made above or below the mauerlat beams, this does not play any role, the main thing is that it is horizontal. The Mauerlat should lie at the same height along the entire perimeter of the building, and the lining should be the same. After installing the bed, racks are attached to it. They are prepared at the same design height and installed plumb, and the vertical installation of the racks is checked both in the longitudinal and transverse directions. Then the purlin is laid on the racks. Since the bed was set horizontally, and the posts are the same in height and set vertically, it means that the purlin will lie horizontally. After installation, the rafter legs can be attached between the beam and the girder of the wind struts.
The rafters are installed at a certain distance from each other. This distance is called the installation pitch of the rafters and is determined by calculation. The correct installation of the rafters is determined by laying a flat board on 3-4 rafter legs. If between the board and rafter leg There is a visible gap, the rafters are rearranged. If there are no gaps, it means that the rafters are aligned correctly, that is, in the same plane. The final control is carried out visually - rafter system scan from edge to edge. When attaching rafters, you should avoid installing twisted and humped boards, since they will have to be pushed under the sheathing device, which means reducing the design cross-section. Boards with a large number of knots, as well as boards with through knots directed across the fibers, are strictly prohibited - they may break.
Triangular hanging rafter patterns are difficult to assemble in a vertical position, so they are assembled on the ground or on a hard floor and then installed ready-made. When installing them, make sure that ridge knot was strictly above the centerline of the building. Since the trusses have the same dimensions, and the pads are level, they are automatically horizontal. The trusses are plumb and secured with wind ties.
The rectangularity of the roof slopes is ensured by the sheathing. Before installing it, it is advisable to already have roofing material available. Having data about physical and mechanical characteristics and the size of the material, you can calculate the amount of lateral extension of the sheathing beyond the walls and the length of the fillies, i.e., determine the actual dimensions of the roof slope. When installing the sheathing, its extension beyond the walls is made slightly larger than required. The width of the ramp at roof installation calculated taking into account the overlap of adjacent sheets of piece roofing material. It is best to do this calculation in real conditions, that is, lay out one row of roofing elements directly on the roof or on the ground, and then measure with a tape measure. This is exactly the situation when you need to measure seven times and cut once. The distance obtained as a result of measurement or calculation is measured at the ridge of the roof, from extreme points put right angles aside and saw off the excess sheathing. In the same way, calculate the length of the fillies that provide their eaves overhang. When calculating eaves overhang We must not forget about the free overhang of the roofing elements by 2-10 cm. A free overhang is made so that rain drops blown by the wind do not wet the bottom board of the sheathing. After all these not very complicated calculations, there will be a whole number of elements on the roof slope in both vertical and horizontal rows. And since the angles are right, there will be no hassle with laying the roof. The result will be graceful and smooth roof. A right angle is laid using a wooden square (Fig. 3) with sides of 3, 4, 5 m or with smaller sides that are multiples of these numbers.

On hip roofs, as mentioned above, you must try to make the slopes the same angles, which is only possible with correct installation Mauerlat and Lezhney.
Rule 2. Before installing the covering from the main roofing material, valleys, valleys, junctions of pipes to the roof and junctions dormer windows covered over a continuous sheathing with galvanized roofing steel(Fig. 4 and 5). To cover the junction of pipes and dormer windows, a blank is made and installed together with the main coating.

Rule 3. The bottom bar of the sheathing should be higher than all subsequent bars by the thickness of the roofing material being laid. To understand why this is needed, just look at Fig. 6.

If this block were the same as all the others, the eaves element of the roof would “pick its nose.”
Rule 4. All roofs are roofed from the bottom up, towards the rain flow. Some roofs, for example corrugated sheets, laid towards the prevailing winds from left to right or, conversely, from right to left.
Many roofing materials already have holes in their design for nails or wire twists, or they are made on a self-adhesive basis, or the kit includes special adhesives and sealed gaskets. Roofing device made from such materials is not difficult, since it is completely thought out.
Roofing materials only need to be assembled on the roof, as the children's designer. Roofing materials that do not have fastening holes (cement-fiber corrugated sheets, metal tiles, profiled flooring) are supplied with roofing nails to match the color of the coating. These nails are attached to the ridge of the piece with a rubber sealing washer.
In addition to fasteners, sets of modern roofing materials include ridge and eaves elements, pipe trims and much more.
Rule 5. Under the roofs mansard roofs stack extra waterproofing layer from polyethylene film, roofing felt or roofing felt. For “cold” roofs, additional waterproofing is desirable, but not necessary. In all subsequent drawings, additional waterproofing will be shown, but this does not mean that it is mandatory.
Rule 6. When installing warm roofs, we must not forget about air circulation between the insulation and the sheathing, which should be from 2 to 5 cm, otherwise the insulation will lose its properties due to saturation with moisture.
Rule 7. When installing roofs, you must remember to tie yourself to the ridge , and when laying the last ridge element, consider a method of evacuation from the roof. Very often you have to go down a rope thrown over the ridge of the roof and tied to something heavy lying on the ground on the other side, or the rope is tied to the ridge of the roof and passed under the top roofing element, then after lowering the rope is pulled out and the roof is straightened from the inside. Of course, such a descent requires some physical preparation. Why is such a stunt method of descent mentioned, when you can make a walking ladder and leave it on the roof forever? Because, as a rule, roofs are often built without a ladder.
And lastly, if a person experiences even the slightest dizziness when climbing to a height, then he has nothing to do on the roof, let others do it - not everyone is born as an astronaut.