Planting new shrubs and trees, including selection correct timing is one of the most important responsibilities of gardeners. Planting seedlings can be done not only in autumn, but also in spring, giving sufficient time for preparation and reducing the risk of unsuccessful wintering. Planting is a very responsible process, regardless of the type of plant, because the viability of a tree or shrub depends on the correct execution.

Timing for planting seedlings

The timing of planting seedlings is limited by the physiological characteristics of their development, because both shrubs and trees can be replanted only during the dormant period, which lasts from the end of active growth in the fall until the opening of new buds in the spring. For regions with severe winters, in particular for middle zone Russia is considered optimal early boarding seedlings in the spring, which guarantees a higher chance of plant survival. Planting can begin only after the soil has thawed. Winter planting is considered less painful for the root system, but such technologies are very complex and should only be entrusted to specialists.

Selection of seedlings

Whatever the time of planting the seedlings you choose, only high-quality, healthy seedlings will be able to take root and delight you for many years. When choosing them, take into account the maximum crown diameter of an adult plant, the required distances, carefully study all the conditions at the intended planting site and use them to select plants for which they are completely suitable. Buy seedlings from reliable, certified in specialized nurseries and authorized garden centers, inspect each plant personally. Seedlings of fruit crops must have an intact strong root system, a well-grown grafting site, the thickness of the trunk should not be less than 2 cm, at least three skeletal branches must be formed on the plant (extending almost horizontally and at least 40 cm in length). Look for traces of mechanical damage on the branches and roots, check whether the rhizome sits tightly in the earthen coma. For open seedlings, the roots should bend freely and not be dry. Pay attention to the presence of rotten spots, the tips of the branches, the integrity and color of the bark.

How to preserve seedlings before planting

An important aspect of planting trees and shrubs is the need to preserve seedlings before planting and transport them to the site. Immediately after you acquire young plants, wrap the exposed rhizomes with cloth, and if the branches are fragile and splayed, tie the plant to avoid injury. Transport seedlings only in the car or wrapped protective materials. If several days must pass before planting, keep the plants in a cool place, regularly adding soil to the container or wrapping the rhizome in a damp cloth and not allowing it to dry out. A seedling can be placed in water only immediately before planting.

Preparing seedlings for planting

Immediately before planting, they begin to prepare the seedlings for planting. To do this, all damaged root tips are cut off to healthy tissue and dry, thinned roots are removed. A few hours before planting, seedlings are soaked in a bucket of water, and container seedlings are watered generously so that the rhizome is saturated with moisture and the plant tolerates planting more easily. Typically, trees and shrubs growing in containers are planted together with a ball of earth or by removing only the surface layer. But the need to preserve the soil around the rhizome must be clarified when purchasing. In fruit and fast-growing ornamental trees and shrubs, before planting, you need to trim the shoots, shortening them by a third.

Planting seedlings

Proper planting of seedlings begins with planting holes, which must be prepared in advance: for the preferred spring planting still in the fall, and for the fall - a few weeks in advance. Shrubs are planted in planting holes about half a meter deep and at least 60 cm in diameter, trees - about 80 cm deep and a meter in diameter. The large size of the planting holes necessitates the creation of optimally loose soil around the plant for the free development of the rhizome in the first years of cultivation. When digging a planting hole, only the top fertile layer of soil to a maximum depth of no more than a spade bayonet is left and subsequently used to prepare the substrate. Long-acting fertilizers mixed with half of the removed top soil are placed at the bottom of the hole. For fruit crops - this is about 70 g. potassium sulfate, up to 1 kg of wood ash, a bucket of compost or mature manure, at least 1 kg of double superphosphate. Leftovers garden soil mixed with turf peat soil, compost and sand depending on the requirements of a particular plant type and left for subsequent backfilling.

Planting seedlings of fruit and ornamental crops– the process is simple, but requires accuracy and responsibility. If a tree or shrub needs support, it is advisable to install it before planting; later installation of supports can lead to unwanted injuries to the roots.

A mound is made at the bottom of the planting hole, and the seedling is placed on it, spreading the roots evenly. Usually fruit trees the root collar should be located 3, maximum 5 cm above the ground level, at ornamental shrubs- be on the same level with it without deepening. Determine the location of the root collar by placing a flat yard or board on top of the planting hole. The planting depth for each plant must be determined individually. Making sure that the central shoot is located as evenly as possible, the soil is poured into the planting hole, gradually and carefully filling the voids between the roots. After backfilling, the soil is carefully compacted, a water-retaining soil roller is made along the contour of the entire planting hole, and the seedling is watered abundantly, completing the planting by mulching the soil surface to retain moisture.

The first few days of the week after planting, monitor soil subsidence and the position of the tree or shrub, adding soil as necessary and monitoring stable soil moisture.

Shumovskaya Tatyana Anatolevna

The article was prepared specifically for MirSovet.ru -

Instructions

Roses can be planted in both spring and autumn. In any case, there are advantages and disadvantages. When planting roses in the fall, you cannot predict the weather, and if the autumn turns out to be warm and prolonged, the roses will begin to grow and may freeze at the first frost. Best timing Roses will still be planted in spring.

When choosing a place for planting, a southern site with a slight slope towards south side, here the roses will be light and warm, and the likelihood of stagnation of melt and rain water is minimized. It’s not scary if shrubs grow near the chosen location or the area is partially shaded at certain times of the day. The scorching sun throughout the day is not good for roses.

We prepare the planting hole in advance, about two weeks in advance. We dig a hole large enough to take into account the growth of the rose, like any other shrub. It is important to take into account the structure of the soil: add sand and organic matter to clay soil, and clay and organic matter to sandy soil. In any case, we add a large amount of rotted horse manure. Roses are very responsive to the addition of organic matter and during flowering they will delight you with their fragrant buds. Also, roses do not like stagnant moisture; it is for this reason that drainage in the form of expanded clay or expanded clay is added to the bottom of the planting hole. broken bricks. But at the same time, rose bushes lacking water will not bloom and develop well. Important point here it will be that roses must be constantly provided with moisture and nutrients to unlock your potential.

We fill the planting hole with nutritious soil and begin planting the pre-prepared seedlings. Before planting, seedlings are soaked in a nutrient solution with the addition of “Kornevin” or other root stimulating drugs. We cut out the damaged roots and treat the sections with brilliant green. Roses are planted in two ways: dry and wet. When wet planting, the planted bush is filled with water and the roots appear as if in a mush, then the hole is filled with the remaining soil. A similar method is used in dry areas.

In wetter areas, planting is carried out using the dry method. At the bottom of the hole we make a mound and install a seedling, spread the roots over the surface of the hill and cover it with soil. When filling a hole with a seedling, carefully monitor the grafting site. The grafting site should be buried 3 to 5 centimeters from the soil level. Shallower depth will cause poor winter hardiness of the shrub, and by exposing the root collar, we will get abundant growth of rose hips. Powerful rosehip sprouts can drown out cultivated sprouts and the rose will die. Distinguish rosehip sprouts from sprouts cultivated plant can be determined by the shape and color of the leaf, as well as by the location of the starting point of growth of the stem. Rosehip stems begin to grow below the grafting level. After planting, water the rose generously. If during watering the seedling is slightly pulled into the depths of the planting hole, then you can correct it a little, and if the roots are exposed, add soil. We mulch the plantings with a large amount of mulch. This is necessary so that the green shoots do not dry out in the sun before rooting. After two weeks, we rake the hilling; By this time the roses should take root and begin to grow.

If you are thinking about upgrading your orchard, you will certainly be faced with the question of how to choose perfect seedlings fruit crops and give them a good start.

Typically, plant nurseries offer annual or biennial seedlings. More mature, three- to four-year-old plants can also be used, but their cost is significantly higher and they generally take root less well, because the roots are more damaged when dug up.

U good seedling the root system must be developed - it is desirable that the roots be branched, at least 20 cm long for one-year-olds and at least 30 cm for two-year-olds, without nodules or nodules.

The above-ground part should be about 1 m for one-year-old and 1.5 m for two-year-old seedlings. Two-year-olds should also have at least three lateral branches at an angle to the trunk of 45 degrees or more. The bark of the stem and branches should be smooth - wrinkled indicates that the seedling is dried out.

Let's imagine an ideal two-year-old seedling

The presence or absence of an apical bud is not so important - anyway, before planting, you will have to prune the seedling for better branching. But if the top has dried out or there is a suspicion that it has frozen, this is your signal; it would be better to look for another seedling.

Lateral shoots from which the skeletal branches of the tree are subsequently formed. A two-year-old seedling should have three of them.

With the eye you can distinguish the boundary between the growth of the first and second year. In addition, damage to the bark may be found on the stem: constrictions from the garter, cracks, scratches and gnaws. Seedlings with such defects may lag behind healthy ones by several years. If possible, it is better to choose a plant with intact bark.

It's better if side branches immediately located at an angle of more than 45 degrees to the stem: such a plant will continue to have a harmonious crown in the future.

The height of the future trunk (trunk to the first lower branches) will hardly change over time, so the lower branches should immediately be located at the level you need. This is especially important if your apple trees are on dwarf and semi-dwarf rootstocks.

The bend at the bottom of the stem is the grafting site. Everything below is a rootstock (wildstock), the shoots of which must be cut out immediately, without waiting for the pruning season.

The cut of the rootstock should be smooth, dry and clean, without stumps. Within a year or two, such a cut will be completely overgrown.

The root collar is located 2-3 cm above the topmost, even thin, root. The ground should be level with this place, even when the ground is in landing pit will settle.

There should be at least three skeletal roots, preferably five. Make sure there is no damage to them.

The more side roots, the better. Trim the ends with pruning shears; the cuts should be light and moist - this means that the roots have not dried out and are alive.

Parting words for those who buy in spring

You should check whether the seedling is frozen. If you make an oblique cut in the upper third of the shoot, the bark should be greenish and the wood should be light. A frozen seedling will have a dark cut. It can be difficult to determine by eye how critical the damage will be; it is only clear that buying such seedlings is a risk.

Undoubtedly, the presence of leaves is the best indication that the seedling is alive! However, now you need seedlings that have not even begun to bud or have just begun to bloom. They are the ones who have the best chance of settling down.

To live well until landing

If you know that you won’t be able to plant right away, it is advisable to wrap the roots with a wet cloth as soon as possible and place them in plastic bag and store the seedling in a cooler place.

If you plan to plant right there, just hide the roots in a bag. In the garden, it is better to keep the seedlings for at least 2-3 hours (overnight is possible) in water, placing them in a bathtub, tank, or barrel. At the same time, it’s even good to dip them headlong so that not only the roots, but also the branches absorb the water.

Let's hurry up with landing

You can plant in the spring, as soon as the ground thaws, and until about the end of April, the earlier the better. The deadlines are mainly determined by how much the leaves of the seedlings have blossomed. If they have not yet blossomed, it is quite possible to plant them in the first half of May.

Before planting, it is useful to treat the roots with a root formation stimulator. Seedlings with a closed root system, that is, growing in pots or containers, can be planted in summer.

The place is the best, and you can’t regret it

Most tree fruit crops are photophilous and, if possible, should be planted “in the sun.” Pears, cherries, apricots and cherry plums especially love the sun; to a slightly lesser extent - apple and plum trees. Cherry and some berry crops, for example currants, are relatively shade-tolerant.

The intervals between planted trees should be

• at least 5 m for a pear,
• cherry and apple trees on a regular rootstock;
• at least 3 m for an apple tree on a semi-dwarf rootstock, plum, cherry plum;
• at least 2 m for cherry and apple trees on a dwarf rootstock and at least 1 m for berry bushes.

We dig holes as usual

The worse the soil in the garden, the wider and deeper you need to dig. The diameter of the hole can vary from 80 to 150 cm, and the depth - from 60 to 100 cm. To fill the hole, it is better to mix good land with rotted manure and sand. And remember, most fruit crops require slightly acidic or neutral soil.

Do not forget to drive a stake into the bottom of the hole of such length that it is 80 cm above the surface of the ground. Several stakes need to be hammered south of center bottom of the pit, I’ll explain why later.

Let's take a look at the seedling

Usually the seedling at the bottom of the stem has a slight bend (bend).

This is where the cultivar is grafted onto the rootstock. Some gardeners believe that this bend should be directed in a certain way, such as south. In reality, orientation to the cardinal points does not have any fundamental significance.

It is more important to plant a seedling with north side cola so that it covers the stem from the sun in winter (this leads to damage when the temperature drops sharply at night).

It’s clear now why we drove the stake further south? It’s good to whitewash a tree in the fall - white trunk reflects light and heats up significantly less. Some gardeners mistake the grafting site for the root collar (although the grafting site may well be 5-10 cm above the actual root collar) and deepen the seedling when planting to its level.

This serious mistake, which is fraught with heating and wetting of the lower part of the stem and the death of the seedling.

When a seedling grows in a nursery, its root collar is located at ground level. In almost the same way, the seedling must be buried when planted on garden plot. The exception is apple tree seedlings on dwarf and semi-dwarf rootstocks, which, in principle, can be buried almost to the grafting site.

How to determine the location of the root collar if the seedling is dug up? Experienced gardener will find it by the change in color of the bark during the transition from the root to the aerial part, but usually they do it this way: they find the most upper root or even the thinnest root of a seedling and measure up 2-3 cm from it.

The root collar is located approximately in this place. To make it easier to control its position during planting, you can make a mark on the seedling with a marker.

We don’t trample, we spill

Watering during planting should be plentiful, even if it's raining– up to three buckets per seedling. With abundant watering, the soil around the seedling acquires the consistency of jelly and does not need to be trampled down. During planting, as soil is added and water is added, the seedling is pulled up a little so that its root collar is 3-4 cm above the surface of the earth.

We need to deal with our groundwater

If groundwater is close, when selecting fruit crops, you need to take into account the depth of distribution of the bulk of the roots. In a pear and apple tree on a regular rootstock, they go down 2-2.5 m. In a plum, cherry, apple tree on a semi-dwarf rootstock - by 1.5 m. In an apple tree on a dwarf rootstock - by 1 m. In berry bushes - by 0 .5 m.

If the groundwater is higher, it is advisable to plant on mounds. The mound is poured with a height of at least 60 cm and a diameter of about a meter in the upper part. Before pouring a mound, you should dig a hole almost to the groundwater level and fill it with fertile soil. You can place a sheet of flat slate at the bottom of the hole so that the vertical roots begin to grow horizontally. The mound should not crumble, so its edges should be strengthened.

After planting, water the soil generously; the soil should be saturated with water to tightly cover the roots. You may have to do this in several passes. And then mulch.

In winter, the hills freeze more than the surrounding ground. The roots of apple trees on dwarf and semi-dwarf rootstocks, whose resistance to freezing is noticeably lower than that of ordinary rootstocks, may suffer. Therefore, I advise you to cover the hills with spruce branches.

We did everything right - what next?

Do I need to prune seedlings after planting and how to do it? Cherry seedlings do not need to be pruned. Typical annual (unbranched) seedlings of other crops after planting should be cut at a height of 70-80 cm from the ground. This is necessary in order to stimulate the growth of lateral branches; usually several new shoots grow during the season.

As they grow, you need to select the so-called central conductor from the upper, more vertical shoots, and leave 3-4 shoots from the side ones, directed in different directions and having angles of departure from the trunk of more than 45 degrees. All other branches and twigs are removed, not leaving even small stumps.

If, as the branches grow, it becomes obvious that all the angles between them and the trunk are sharper than necessary, then until the shoots become lignified, they can be forcibly bent to a more horizontal position and fixed.

What to be happy about at the end of the season?

In the fall, your two-year-old seedling should have a trunk (part of the trunk from the ground to the first branch) of about 50 cm, 3-4 side branches and a central conductor (vertical shoot).

Ideally, any standard two-year-old seedling should look exactly the same if you purchase it from a nursery. If, when selling you, a specialist did not immediately prune the seedling “for planting”, then, having planted such a seedling, shorten its central conductor and side branches by about one third if their length is less than 50 cm, and by half if their length is more than 50 cm. During the summer you also need to highlight the central conductor and avoid sharp angles between the trunk and branches.

Container seedlings are convenient and can wait a long time for planting; they can be planted throughout the season. But there is also a significant drawback: root system more difficult to check.

It is advisable to dig a hole in advance. In addition to soil, you will need well-rotted manure and compost. The hole needs to be filled with a decent amount, and also have a supply of soil, taking into account the fact that the soil will settle.

What you shouldn't forget to do

• Water regularly, especially if there is no rain.
• Keep the tree trunk free from weeds, especially in the first years.
• Mulch with well-rotted manure or quality compost. They usually mulch to the level of the root collar, not higher!
• Feed with mineral fertilizers: in June - nitrogen fertilizers (2-3 spraying of leaves with a 0.5 percent urea solution); in July - complex (nitrophoska, azofoska); in August-September - phosphorus and potassium (superphosphate, potassium sulfate or phosphorus-potassium fertilizers).
• Whitewashing protects the tender young bark from overheating and drying out while the roots are not yet working at full strength. We carefully treat the cut of the rootstock and other damage.
• In the first years, careful protection from mice is mandatory. Make sure that the stem is closed from the ground itself - it is at the border of soil and snow that mice make their passages.

A good start will allow the seedling to enter the fruiting season faster. And then - annual care: sensible pruning and good feeding.

On any personal plot There will certainly be a corner where at least a small raspberry garden will be located. And perhaps many of you continue to grow raspberry varieties cultivated by our grandmothers, not knowing about new breeding innovations and effective agricultural technology that can improve yields and unlock the potential of the berry!

New achievements in raspberry breeding

• New raspberry varieties, to one degree or another, have winter, frost, heat and drought resistance, and also have low .
• The branches of these varieties are often thornless, making them easier to care for and harvest.
• The shoots, reaching an impressive thickness, maintain a vertical position without bending under the weight of the crop or rain.
• Incredibly large-fruited with a fruit weight of up to 10 g and a productivity of about 4–5 kg per bush.
• High commercial and taste qualities are expressed in the preservation of the berries on the bush after ripening until they are harvested and excellent transportability.

Types of garden raspberries

Selection has given us the opportunity to choose for our plots the best varieties from 3 main groups.

1. Regular (summer). It has a two-year growing cycle: in the first year the shoot grows, in the second it bears fruit.
The main care for this group of varieties is to tie the branches to the trellis in time in the spring and cut off the tops. As a rule, the stems of such raspberries grow quite tall, up to 2 m or more, and the top simply does not have time to ripen by autumn, as it freezes. Therefore, raspberries are cut to a height of 1.2 m, after which the formation of side shoots begins, on which the crop is formed.

2. Remontant raspberry- a group of raspberry varieties that differ in their ability to bear fruit on both biennial and annual shoots. Often grown as an annual crop for late summer and fall harvests. Remontant raspberry varieties bear fruit twice a season - in summer and autumn.

Remontant raspberry varieties bear fruit twice a season - in summer and autumn

It forms an average number of shoots (from 5 to 7) and, compared to the summer one, is less vigorous. Its bushes reach a height of 1 to 1.5 m, and many varieties do not even require a trellis. And one more feature remontant raspberries: its berries are especially sweet and aromatic, and they are never wormy! This is explained by its biological cycle, which coincides with the biological cycle of pests. Usually the berries ripen in the second half of August - September. Fruiting shoots in the fall or early spring cut to soil level.

Such wide range varieties with different ripening periods gives us a real opportunity to enjoy raspberry berries all season long, combining super-early, middle, late and remontant varieties in our raspberry garden.

remontant variety Brusnyava

semi-remontant variety Yellow Giant

mid-early Phoenix variety

Rules of agricultural technology

The lifespan of a raspberry bush is about 8–10 years. Sunny areas protected from the winds are allocated for it.

Place and soil. You should choose medium-loamy, light-heavy soils with groundwater levels no higher than 1.5 m. The soils themselves must be nutritious and have acidity levels within the pH range of 5.8–6.7. Before planting, the soil is generously filled with organic and mineral fertilizers in a dose of 10 kg of manure or compost or liter jar wood ash per 1 m2. Mineral fertilizers Apply in early spring to frozen soil. Raspberries are sensitive to chlorine, so it is best to avoid it in fertilizers.

Preparing seedlings for planting. For better rooting, before planting, you can soak the seedlings for one to two hours in a solution of humates, Heteroauxin, Kornevin or other rooting agents. To prevent root rotting, you can add a rooting agent to the solution. systemic fungicide(Quadris, Srok, Ridomil, Flint).

Landing. Raspberry seedlings take root well under... Raspberries are often planted in furrows or trenches, which allows for better moisture retention. The depth of the trench should be from 30 to 40 cm, width – 50–60 cm. The trench is filled with humus or compost with a layer of up to 10 cm. If you plan to plant several rows of raspberries, then the trenches must be dug with row spacing of 1.7–2 m. This will provide enough space for feeding roots and make harvesting easier.

Raspberries are often planted in furrows or trenches, which allows for better moisture retention.

The root collar of a raspberry seedling should be at ground level. Large depths should not be allowed, as this leads to slow development or death of the plant. Shallow planting, which leads to drying out of the root buds, is also unacceptable. Raspberries do not tolerate flooding of the root system. On soils that are too wet and close groundwater Raspberries are planted on raised beds, and drainage must be provided for water accumulating in the furrows.

Watering. After planting is completed, use half to a full bucket on the bush to properly moisten the soil. For better survival, plant roots should be in close contact with the soil. Post-planting charging watering is needed even if the soil is wet.

mulching a seedling

spring pruning of tops by 15-20 cm

Growing methods

Raspberries can be grown in several ways: row, nest and on a trellis.

Ordinary method. Long used and showing excellent results is a strip planting of seedlings with a distance between plants of 0.5 m, and between rows of 1.5–1.8 m. In the first two years after planting, a strip of young shoots 30 cm wide is formed. Anything that grows beyond the agreed boundaries is mercilessly cut at the root.

On the trellis. For tall varieties prone to lodging, the “Scottish” trellis growing method has been developed. This method makes it possible to obtain a more uniform, larger and more abundant harvest due to improved access of lighting to the fruits. The trellis is installed in the second year after planting raspberries.

The trellis is installed in the second year after planting raspberries.

It consists of two-meter pillars installed at a distance of 5–10 m from each other. Galvanized or aluminum wire is pulled onto the poles. The first is stretched at a height of 0.8–1 m, and the second at 1.5 m from the surface of the earth. Seedlings are planted every 0.7 m, two in one planting hole.

Nesting method planting not only produces a high-quality harvest, but also serves. To do this, seedlings are planted along the boundaries of a 0.8 m circle, and a strong stake is driven into the center. When the shoots grow, they are tied at a height of 1.2–1.5 m, thus forming a green sheaf. Several such sheaves along the path, in a group in the garden or vegetable garden will become original decoration, especially during fruiting.

first frosts. Spring pruning of the tops of shoots by 15–20 cm also contributes to an increase in productivity and berry size.

productive raspberry varieties can produce 4-5 kg ​​of berries per bush

When growing raspberries on your plots, you will always have the most on hand, since the berries contain a lot of salicylic acid. And of course, the list of vitamins and nutrients in the “bear berry” deserves a separate article, which I will definitely write closer to summer, when the raspberries begin to ripen. In the meantime, purchase seedlings of promising raspberry varieties, thereby providing yourself with a stable harvest, which should definitely be enough to make jam and to enjoy.