How to grow bearded irises. Planting irises in autumn. Landing, choosing a seat

Bearded iris: description, features of planting and care

Bearded iris is a perennial rhizomatous plant of the iris family. Grows in the USA, Japan, Canada, Australia and New Zealand. In Russia, iris grows in the southern and central regions. The variety of varieties allows the flower to be grown in areas with variable climates.

Description

Branched dark green stems reach 35-85 cm in height. The flat leaves are collected at the base of the rhizome. The edge of the leaf blade is sharp. The branched root system is located close to the soil surface.

Source: Depositphotos

Bearded iris - sun-loving decorative flower

Depending on the variety, the flowers are arranged singly or collected in inflorescences. The color of the petals varies from snow-white to yellow and dark purple. The inflorescences exude a delicate aroma. The outer petals are dotted with stripes that stand out against the background of the main color of the flower.

IN middle lane In Russia, flowering continues from late May to mid-July. Weather conditions can shift the timing of bud blooming.

The iris fruit is a triangular ribbed capsule with seeds. Ripens in August - September. 20-40 dark brown seeds develop in the seed capsule.

Planting and care

Irises prefer neutral or alkaline soils, grow on rocky soil. Cannot tolerate clayey, acidified soil with stagnation groundwater. Grow on open places with abundance sunlight. In the shade, plants become sick and dry out, and the number of buds and inflorescences decreases. Plant irises after flowering, when young roots form.

Landing rules:

Dig a hole 25-35 cm deep, put a layer of sand or pebbles on the bottom.
Make an earthen mound in the center of the hole, lower the iris rhizome onto it, straightening the roots along the sides of the hill.
Fill the hole with soil and compact the root layer of soil.
Water the plant with 2-3 liters of warm water.

In the first year after planting, do not loosen the soil near the seedling. Fragile surface roots are deformed from mechanical impact on the soil.

In dry weather, water irises 2-4 times a week. Do not allow the soil to become waterlogged. Delete weeds near the plant.

Trim dry leaves and shoots. In mid-autumn, remove the above-ground part of the plant, cover the flower with rags, spruce branches or fallen leaves.

Growing iris in one place lasts 8-11 years. Frequent replanting has a detrimental effect on the health of the plant; the root system weakens and stops developing.

Iris is a decorative flower used in landscape design. Due to its unpretentiousness and abundant flowering, the plant is used to decorate city parks, squares and flower beds.

Iris (Iris, Cockerels) – perennial from the rhizomatous genus. Irises can be found in almost every vegetable garden, garden and park. There are more than 700 species, which are characterized by a variety of shapes and colors.

For this reason, people called this flower rainbow. They say that since ancient times the iris was named after the goddess of the rainbow, Iris. Externally, iris flowers are very similar to orchids and have the same rich range of shades.

Varieties and types

Gained wide popularity due to the presence of shaggy hairs on the petals. This type of irises happens different sizes(dwarf, tall, table and others).

An important point when growing is that this type of iris needs to be planted on sand. To do this, sand is poured into the bottom of the prepared hole (in a small layer) and then laid out, carefully distributing the rhizome. The planting should not be deep.

Grows up to 80 cm in height, with flowers up to 10 cm, different colors. The natural color of this species has many shades from blue to dark purple.

And as for some hybrid varieties, then we meet:

white ( Snow Queen ),

pink ( Imperial Opal ),

yellow with white trim ( Batts and Suga ).

With all this variety, there is a significant disadvantage of this type - there is no aroma at all.

(its other name is xiphoid ) has large flowers (about 25 cm in diameter), which are most similar to orchid flowers.

– one of the large species (about one meter in height), drought- and frost-resistant. The flowers are lacy, have a bright yellow center and a white (dark purple, blue-violet and others) border.

A clear difference from other species is the fact that this iris grows only in moist soil. For this reason, it is most often used to decorate ponds.

- reaches only 15 cm in height, has wide leaves and yellow or purple flowers.

(xyphyllum ) is a hybrid variety, first bred in Holland. They grow to a height of no more than 50-60 cm. The flowers have various shades petals: white, yellow, orange, blue and purple.

It is winter-hardy, but in severe winters it requires additional shelter. Often this type of irises is used for cutting, forming bouquets.

- Very interesting flower, which in Latin "spuria" means "false". It got its name for its external similarity to Dutch irises.

The main advantage is that the flowering period is longer (several weeks). The “life” period of one flower is a week.

Iris planting and care in open ground

Irises – light-loving plants Therefore, the key to long and variegated flowering is location in a well-lit area.

When planting, it is worth considering the fact that irises are capable of moving. So in one year they can move away from their original location by several centimeters. Therefore, planting is carried out not in a standard way (in a row), but with a fan of leaves along the row. Planting conditions are different for each species.

So, for example, it is worth planting bearded irises on that piece of land where there is good illumination in the first half of the day; it is better if it is a slope or hill (for outflow melt water) and the presence of drainage. As for marsh and Siberian irises, on the contrary, they like the soil to be constantly moist.

But at the same time, all species love rich soil, therefore, if necessary, in the spring, before planting, compost (do not use manure) and potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are added. If the soil is acidic, you can add a little chalk or wood ash. And of course, before planting, it is necessary to treat the area with herbicides and moisten it with a fungicide (for disinfection).

Watering irises

Water the plant only after the soil around the bush has completely dried. If there is a possibility that groundwater passes close to the surface, then it is worth taking care of drainage in advance.

The first watering is carried out immediately after planting, and the next - no earlier than three days later.

Feeding irises in spring

For lush flowering And good growth Irises, like all plants, need fertilizing and fertilizer. However, you should not use manure, as it will make the irises sick.

For feeding, you should use complex mineral fertilizers containing phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium. You need to scatter it around the bushes in the spring after the irises begin to grow. After this, the ground should be watered to speed up the dissolution of the granules.

Also, do not forget that an excess of fertilizers is also very harmful to plants, as well as a lack of them; as with watering, it is better to underfeed them a little than to overfeed them. Some gardeners may object: why feed and bother with irises, because they will bloom without it. But one can argue with this.

Over the ten years of growing irises, there were periods when fertilizing was not carried out at all for about three years in a row - and the difference was very noticeable. If you use fertilizers, irises bloom more abundantly and much more luxuriantly, their flowers are brighter and larger, the leaves are healthy and glossy, and the flower stalks are strong enough that they do not break even in strong winds, and they do not require tying at all.

But the main thing is that the growth of such bushes occurs much faster. For these reasons, the answer to the question of whether to feed or not is clear - feed, but at the same time wisely and in moderation. I have already developed a feeding scheme with a complex of micro and macro elements once a season before the start of the flowering period. I notice from my irises that they like it, they grow very quickly and bloom beautifully.

Preparing irises for winter

Because of characteristic feature irises, which consists in the fact that their root system grows horizontally, sometimes their roots are exposed above the surface, so in winter they need to be sprinkled with additional soil and peat, otherwise they will freeze. In the spring, this layer of soil is carefully removed.

Irises are absolutely not suitable for leaves, straw, corn stalks as a covering material, or any other materials under which irises may rot. It is better to use the ground for shelter. Pour a few handfuls of soil into the middle of the bush to cover the exposed rhizomes.

When snow falls, it can also be used as a shelter, additionally adding it to the iris plantings. And in the spring, after the soil dries, excess soil should be carefully distributed around the bushes. And yet, in the matter of covering irises on winter period It is impossible to give clear advice for all gardeners.

Since, when growing irises in the southern regions, you can completely do without shelter for the winter, but in the east and north of Russia, some varieties simply need preventive shelter.

Propagation of irises

There are three ways to propagate irises - by seeds, sprouts or rhizomes.

The main difference between these methods is that irises grown from seeds should bloom only in the second or third year, while flowers grown from rhizomes will bloom in the first year.

Propagation of irises by dividing the bush

When dividing a bush, only the healthiest bushes are selected. Having dug all the rhizomes out of the ground, it is necessary to thoroughly shake off all the soil so that each root can be clearly seen, then they are cut into small sections, so that each part has one leaf bunch left. Leaves are cut in half.

After which it is necessary to disinfect in a weak solution of potassium permanganate (dip the roots into the solution for 10-15 minutes), and dry in the sun. Plant in small holes, no deeper than 3-4 cm and at a distance of no closer than half a meter.

Vegetative propagation of iris

To propagate by sprouts, you must wait for at least one flowering of the plant, only after that you can safely use the young shoots. At the same time, it is worth cutting them off before the buds appear.

Rooting is carried out by planting in the ground in a shaded place, creating a greenhouse. If necessary, spray additionally. After 2-3 weeks, complete rooting can be observed.

Iris growing from seeds

After flowering ends, collect dried ovaries. They can be stored in boxes in a dark and dry place. In autumn, prepared seeds are planted in pots with a sandy substrate and covered with glass or polyethylene (to create a greenhouse). Closer to spring, the seedlings will sprout; they need to be thinned out.

Young growth is planted only after it has grown enough to make it convenient to plant. It is worth noting that only species irises can be propagated using this method, but with varietal irises, problems may arise with maintaining maternal characteristics.

Bacteriosis or soft rot of iris rhizomes

One of the dangerous diseases that affects irises is soft, bacterial, rhizome rot . The plant dies when strong degree infection.

Signs of this disease are rotting of the leaves at the base of the rhizomes, while the leaves remain green and simply fall out in whole fans. The rhizomes themselves turn into a foul-smelling slurry inside. Affected bushes should be completely dug up, all damaged areas should be cut out, reaching healthy tissue, and the cutting tool should be disinfected each time.

The bushes are divided, the cut areas are sprinkled with crushed coal, and then they are laid out in the sun with their rhizomes facing up for one to two days to warm them up thoroughly. You should not be afraid that the irises will dry out. Such procedures are a way of salvation for sick plants. After that, the cuttings that have dried out and warmed up are transplanted to a new area and watered.

The soil in the contaminated area is disinfected with a solution of potassium permanganate, and the contaminated material is burned. With moderate damage to the rhizomes when the disease is noticed, it is possible to save irises in almost one hundred percent of cases.

Irises rust stains

In spring and summer periods may appear on the leaves of irises rust stains , which grow over time, causing gradual drying of the leaves. These stains spread especially quickly at high humidity.

To prevent leaf spotting, irises should be treated with fungicides in the spring at the very beginning of intensive plant growth, with mandatory repetition after ten to fourteen days to consolidate the results.

And at the beginning of the flowering period, a control treatment is carried out. It should also be taken into account that drug solutions are poorly retained on the leaves; for this reason, special adhesives should be added.

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Recently, lovers of perennial iris flowers are increasingly cultivating beardless varieties. But fans of the classics prefer growing bearded irises - beautiful and austere flowers with a massive petal in the form of a “tongue” or “beard”, which is distinctive feature this plant, its “zest”. By grouping varieties of irises by flowering time, you can provide decorativeness from May to July.

In nature, there is a flower that smoothly leads us from spring to summer. The first ones early spring, wild irises bloom, they are replaced by “bearded” dwarfs and Spuria, and by the end of May the garden shimmers with all the colors of the rainbow thanks to numerous varieties of tall bearded irises. In June, marking the arrival of summer, Siberian and Japanese flowers delight us with their grace.

The perennial plant iris belongs to the family Irisaceae, or iris. There are about 200 species native to Europe, Asia, Africa, North America. In the 20th century irises have gained wide recognition among gardeners in most countries, and in terms of the number of varieties (more than 35 thousand), this crop has taken one of the first places.

You can judge what an iris looks like even from the most ancient frescoes. The history of the flower goes back centuries. Irises were cultivated in the gardens of the Egyptian pharaohs. IN Ancient Greece Entire fields were planted with them. Due to the variety of colors, the plant was given the name “iris”, which means “rainbow” in Greek. The ancient Hellenes revered irises and considered them messengers of the golden-winged goddess Iris, the messenger of the gods, the interpreter of their will.

Irises attracted people not only with their beautiful flowers. They were valued as medicinal plants, perfumery and confectionery raw materials.

Irises- perennial rhizomatous plants. The rhizome is located parallel to the soil level at a shallow depth and in bearded irises it comes to the surface. Rhizome containing stock nutrients, consists of annual units. The newly formed links end in a bunch of sessile leaves that die off annually. The leaves are broadly or narrowly xiphoid, straight or sickle-shaped, most often collected in a fan-shaped bunch. In spring they are usually light green, darkening in summer.

How is the description of bearded irises of hybrid varieties different? The leaves of these plants are usually bluish with a waxy coating and, as a rule, persist until late autumn. Therefore, irises decorate the garden not only during flowering.

Peduncles branch and bear from 1 to 10 flowers or more. The number of branches depends on the type and variety. Stem height various types varies greatly - from 15 cm for dwarf iris to 2 m for marsh iris.

The flowers, distinguished by their extraordinary grace and sophistication, consist of 6 perianth lobes, arranged in two tiers: the three outer petals are bent downwards, and the three inner ones are raised up and form a dome. The perianth lobes are deployed in such a way that every detail of each “petal” is visible. What do iris flowers look like? bearded varieties? On their lower petals there are soft, bristly growths resembling a beard, which gives the group its name.

The iris flower is remarkable for its sparkling, mysterious shine of its petals, especially noticeable in the slanting rays of the sun or under electric lighting. This is explained by the peculiar structure of cells that focus light, like miniature optical lenses. It’s not for nothing that in the old days some people called irises gems rainbow colors.

The colors of the flowers are incredibly diverse. There are solemnly velvety, mysteriously black irises, but no less mysterious is the sparkling shine of white and light blue flowers, reminiscent of the transparency of ice or crystal. And between white and black there is a whole range of blue, purple, pink, yellow, reddish and even brown shades. Neither painting nor photography fully conveys the play of color, texture, and graceful lines of these flowers. It’s not for nothing that irises are compared to.

Look at what the iris looks like in the photo to once again enjoy the beauty of this plant:

Conditions for growing bearded irises

Now it's time to find out how irises are grown personal plots. For hybrid bearded irises, sunny places, protected from strong winds, are selected. They can tolerate light partial shade from trees. Most varieties have very large flowers, for which gusts of wind and rain are especially dangerous. Therefore, during the period of mass flowering in windy, rainy weather, gartering of flower stalks is required.

One more thing important condition for growing irises - the presence of light, loamy soil. If the soil in the area is heavy, it needs to be improved by adding sand and peat. Wood ash is added to acidic soils. Before planting, the area should be dug up with a spade and all weeds should be carefully removed. Rotted manure is applied to a depth of 20-25 cm, without mixing it with the soil.

Irises are afraid of excess moisture, so they grow best in areas with low groundwater levels. However, during the period of budding and flowering, they show an increased need for water. Good watering at this time helps prolong flowering and creates favorable conditions for pollination. Watering is best done in the evening.

Faded flowers of bearded irises are removed, and the flower stalks are broken off entirely at the end of flowering. In late autumn, the leaves are shortened to 10 cm. Plants are covered with a small layer of mulch for the winter. Frost-unresistant varieties are covered more thoroughly. In the spring, after the snow melts, carefully stir up the compacted winter shelter. It is completely removed in early or mid-April, depending on weather conditions. Bearded irises, despite their southern origin, tolerate spring frosts quite well compared to other perennials with temperatures dropping to -5...-7 °C.

How to plant irises correctly and how to care for them

How to plant irises correctly to ensure their vigorous growth? Plants are propagated by rhizomes. To do this, the root is dug up and divided into planting units, the so-called delenki, each of which consists of 1-3 annual links. Before planting irises, root sections are treated with crushed charcoal or a solution of potassium permanganate.

When is the best time to plant irises so that they germinate on time? Optimal time for planting irises - 2 weeks after flowering. With a lump of earth they can be replanted at any time. However late boarding(later September 10-15) leads to poor rooting of plants. When planting, it is important that the division is not buried. The rhizome is placed almost at the level of the soil surface. A mound of earth is poured into the bottom of the hole and the roots are evenly spread along its slopes, covering them with earth and squeezing them tightly with your hands. Water generously with water and check once again whether the division is planted firmly enough. The rhizome should be horizontal, and the fan of leaves should be slightly inclined. Tall and medium-sized irises are planted at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other, and low-growing ones - 15-20 cm.

The landing links are positioned so that there is room for “movement”. Root system in irises it is directed forward (along the course of rhizome growth), and the planted section will continue to grow in that part where the fan of leaves is located. When planting irises in nests, the plane of the leaves should be directed across the outlined circle.

If the soil is clayey and does not drain water well, it is recommended to plant the tree on a “cushion” of sand or fine gravel so that the water does not stagnate and the rhizome does not rot. When planting, the rhizome is not buried, but only sprinkled with a layer of soil of no more than 2-3 cm - over time it will come to the surface on its own.

After planting irises, when caring for plants, fertilizing is carried out at least three times. Doesn't exist universal recommendations, how to care for irises in terms of fertilizers, but one rule must be firmly remembered: excessive fertilizing is detrimental to plants. The first feeding is carried out in the spring, immediately after removing the cover (nitrogen-phosphorus - 3:1), the second after 2-3 weeks (nitrogen-potassium - 1:1). At the end of flowering, nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (3:1:3) is added. The last feeding is very important for good flowering of irises next year, it should not be missed. Fertilizing is carried out at the rate of 10 liters of solution per 1 m2, or 6 iris bushes. During the summer, the soil around the plants is lightly sprinkled with ash 1-3 times, which is not only a top dressing, but also repels pests and prevents diseases.

Here you can see photos of planting and caring for irises of various groups:

Now that you know how to care for irises, check out the most popular varieties.

Varieties of bearded irises with photos, names and flowering dates

Bearded irises are divided into 3 groups according to height: low-growing (25-36 cm), medium-growing (37-70 cm), tall (more than 70 cm).

According to the timing of flowering, varieties are divided into early, mid-early, middle, mid-late and late. The beginning of flowering of each of these subgroups may vary from year to year depending on weather conditions. For example, in the Moscow region early varieties Bearded irises bloom in mid-May and bloom until the end of the month. The mid-early ones bloom in the last five days of May and finish flowering in the first ten days of June. Medium and mid-late varieties, which predominate in our gardens, bloom throughout June. Late varieties, which bloom in early July, are grown extremely rarely.

Based on flower color, irises are divided into 13 classes: white, red, orange, yellow, green, blue, violet, red-violet, black, two-tone, two-color, bordered, iridescent.

It should be noted that green in irises it has a yellowish or brownish tint. There are no varieties with scarlet, pure red coloring: irises have brown, terracotta, cherry shades. Pink irises are classified as light red. Brown classified as dark orange. Black has blue, violet, brown, dark cherry shades and is characterized by special depth and velvety.

Below you will see photos and names of varieties of bearded irises that bloom from mid-May, and also read their descriptions.

"Arkady Raikin". This variety of iris received its name in honor of the great Russian comedian. Peduncle 80-100 cm, strong, short-branched, 5-7-flowered. The flower is 12-13 cm, delicate reddish-pink in color, the outer lobes are semi-drooping, the inner lobes are slightly frilled at the edges, the aroma is strong.

"Beverly Hills". The height of the bush is 50 cm, peduncles are 80-85 cm. In an inflorescence there are 3-4 very spectacular flower with a diameter of 17 cm. The upper lobes of the perianth are light pink, very wavy, the lower ones are paler, floating. Pink beard.

"Blue Staccato" The height of the bush is 55-60 cm, peduncles are 90-100 cm. The inflorescence contains 4-5 very spectacular flowers with a diameter of 16 cm.

Pay attention to the photo of the flowers of this variety of bearded iris - the upper perianth lobes are blue-blue, wavy, slightly fringed, the lower ones are white with a blurred blue border, the beard is golden-yellow:

"Burgomaster". The height of the peduncles is 100-110 cm. There are 5-7 flowers in the inflorescence. The outer lobes are violet-lilac with a brownish border, the inner ones are yellowish-cream. The beauty of the flower is emphasized by elegant corrugation.

"Gvardeysky". Peduncle 125-140 cm, strong, long-branched, 10-12-flowered. Flower 14-15 cm, sunny yellow with an orange beard, strong honey aroma.

"Canada's Gold" Peduncle 90-105 cm, strong, short-branched. The flower is light golden yellow with an orange beard and has a strong aroma. It blooms profusely and the bush grows quickly.

"Saprim Sultan". It has a powerful bush with strong peduncles up to 120 cm high and more. It has the largest flowers to date (more than 20 cm in diameter). This variety of bearded iris is bicolor: the inner lobes are bronze-yellow, the outer lobes are red-brown and velvety. It is distinguished by its beautiful corrugation and unusual bubbly edges of the petals.

"Kentucky Derby". The height of the bush is 50 cm, peduncles are 80-90 cm. The inflorescence has 5-6 flowers with a diameter of 16 cm. The perianth lobes are light lemon-yellow, wavy, with fringed edges, on the lower ones there is a creamy white spot in the center. The beard is golden.

When choosing bearded irises to grow on your site, first of all, decide on the size. The fact is that these flowers vary in height: there are bearded irises that grow up to 70 cm, and there are those that rise above the ground no higher than 5 cm. The best varieties Bearded irises must meet certain requirements, you will learn about them by reading this material.

Medium-sized, tall and miniature bearded irises

Bearded irises are the largest group of irises, consisting of several classes.

Tall bearded irises (TV)- powerful plants with a height of 71 cm with a branched peduncle, many buds and large flowers, sometimes up to 20 cm in diameter. In the Moscow region they bloom from mid-June to early July.

Medium-sized bearded irises (MB) - from 41 to 70 cm in height, are in turn divided into three groups:

border irises (BB) with a flowering period similar to tall bearded ones, but with a proportionally smaller flower;
intermedia irises (IB) with a flower size of 10-13 cm and a flowering period in the Moscow region from the beginning of June; not necessarily highly branched, but forming a profusely flowering bush;
table, or miniature tall bearded irises (MTB) - with a tall thin branched peduncle and relatively small (no wider than 8 cm) flowers, used mostly for bouquets and tables, which is where their name comes from.

Standard Bearded Dwarfs (SDB)- 21-40 cm high, in the Moscow region they bloom from the end of May.

Miniature Bearded Dwarfs (MDB)- the smallest, the height of such bearded irises is 5-20 cm. These flowers bloom very early (in the Moscow region from the first half of May).

Requirements for tall bearded irises

The modern tall bearded iris is a striking flower! Any person who sees it is fascinated by its beauty and is extremely surprised when he learns that growing luxurious irises is no more difficult than any other garden flowers or even vegetables in the garden. Perhaps there are so many erroneous opinions about any crop that many, even very experienced gardeners, are wary of it, usually contrasting new varieties with old ones. And it’s completely in vain: among modern varieties there are plenty of those that can bloom reliably and regularly in the middle zone and even have some advantage in resistance to the adversities of our harsh climate compared to historical varieties. Therefore, it is undoubtedly worth striving to acquire new varieties. But the main advantage of the new varieties is that they are immeasurably more beautiful than the old ones.

The progress in breeding flowers of tall bearded irises is amazing. The main attention is paid to the flower, because even just one flower - whether it grows in the garden or stands in a vase - can captivate the gardener’s imagination and make him fall in love forever. New ones are still appearing color combinations, exquisite color patterns that instantly gain immense popularity. But despite all the achievements in expansion color range irises, the main focus is on the quality of the flower.

Flower quality means:

wide, sometimes interlocking halyards and closed standards at the base, making the flower collected, rounded and expressive;
the density of the texture of the petals, which ensures resistance to precipitation and a longer lifespan of the flower;
grace and uniformity of corrugation of shares;
width, density and expressiveness of the beards.

An example of excellent flower quality is 'Paris Fashion' by Keith Keppel. Giant flowers peduncles proportional to their size are also required - tall, strong, resistant to gusts of wind. To ensure that the opening flowers do not interfere with each other, they must be “spaced” on sufficiently long branches, and in order to ensure a long flowering period, there must be a large number of buds in the inflorescence.

Particularly attractive are the so-called exhibition varieties that have 3-5 simultaneously open flowers on the peduncle.

Considerable attention is also paid to the garden attractiveness of the iris - the health of the foliage, the rapid growth of the bush and the representativeness of its flowering, when the optimal number of flower stalks on the bush is approximately equal to half the number of leaf fans.

Of particular interest are those varieties whose bushes emit flower stalks not simultaneously, but over a period of time, providing exclusively long flowering. Remontant varieties have a long flowering period.

At correct selection varieties, the flowering of tall bearded irises lasts for 50 days.

The main requirement for iris varieties for cultivation in the northern regions is growth energy, which makes it possible to compensate for many other shortcomings of the plant. The next most important quality is frost resistance. Ability to resist low temperatures in winter is associated with the rhythm of plant development. Irises, whose growth ends by the end of summer and the leaves die off, overwinter much better and, therefore, their flower buds are not damaged in harsh winters.

Tall bearded irises are a very heat-loving crop. Thus, in the Moscow region and to the north, only 20% of the varieties grow successfully from their total number. Therefore, my advice to amateur gardeners is to be interested first of all in its frost resistance when purchasing.

Resistance to fungal and bacterial diseases is another important quality. Resistance to bacteriosis and heterosporiosis ensures healthy foliage, decorative planting and regular flowering.

The standard planting unit for bearded irises is usually the annual growth of the iris rhizome. In the middle zone they reach acceptable sizes by early August. This is the reason for the recommended planting period - the first half of August, however, good results can be obtained if planted before the beginning of September.

Which rhizomes are best to take for planting: large or small, annual (short) or biennial (long)? The answer to this question depends on your goals: if you, by all means, want to see an iris flower on next year after planting, choose a large rhizome with a wide fan of 6-8 leaves. If flowering next year is not important to you, but the reliability of overwintering and the survival rate of the plant are paramount, choose a medium-sized one or two-year-old rhizome with a diameter of 2-2.5 cm, with 3-4 leaves.

Agricultural technology for growing bearded irises: planting and care

The agricultural technology for growing bearded irises depends on the purposes of their cultivation, so it is impossible to give any universal scheme. Some grow irises, planting them every year and digging them up every year. planting material usually for sale. Others plant irises to decorate the garden in a border, mixborder, rockery or on a rocky hill, where it is advisable not to touch them for several years.

The most important factors successful cultivation are illumination and drainage. Do not forget also that irises are heat-loving plants. The more sun irises receive in the garden, the better they bloom. A little shade in the morning or evening is, of course, acceptable, but only some varieties of irises, such as the intermedia ‘In a Flash’, will withstand more serious shade. Southern slopes are preferable to northern ones; a place near the southern wall of the building would also be good. It is good if the landing site is cleared from the prevailing cold winds.

When the soil is excessively moistened, the respiration of the roots is disrupted and they partially die, which leads to a slowdown in plant development.

Under such conditions, bacterial rot also develops on the rhizomes of irises.

If the soil is sufficiently drained, irises can also be planted on flat surface If the soil is heavy and clayey, then it is better to plant them on a hill or on ridges. Ridges are also more convenient from the point of view of constructing a winter shelter.

High soil fertility is the key to successful cultivation and productivity of tall bearded irises in central Russia.

Bearded irises do best in light, sandy soils. Loams are also acceptable, but the addition of sand and organic materials (peat, composted sawdust, humus) significantly improves the structure and permeability of the soil, which leads to excellent results. You just need to take into account that to improve the soil to a depth of 20 cm, you will need to add approximately 100 liters of sand per 1 m2 of soil.

The optimal level of soil reaction (pH) is 6.8.

If you intend to grow irises in beds, then their preparation consists of the following operations:

clearing the area from the roots of perennial weeds;
delivery to the site of compost or other available organic material;
leveling organic matter over the area while simultaneously adding wood ash or dolomite flour and mixing it with the soil with a pitchfork or shovel.
raking mineral fertilizers: potassium sulfate and superphosphate, as well as ground or colloidal sulfur in an amount of 5-7 g/m2;
shaping the profile of the ridge and compacting the soil to avoid further subsidence and bulging of newly planted plants. The height of the bed profile after compaction is approximately 7-8 cm;
delivery to the ridges of coarse-grained river or washed quarry sand in such quantity as to form a layer of approximately 5-7 cm, and level it;
The ridge is ready for planting. To preserve the structure of the ridge, it is convenient to plant bearded irises in the following way: spread the sand slightly by sticking the bayonet of a shovel into it, place the roots of the iris section into the resulting gap, compact the soil around the roots and water the substrate, move it towards the planted iris section so that it is in the layer sand.

The cuttings are planted on the ridge in such a way that the cut part of the rhizome is directed towards the edge of the ridge, and the fan of leaves is directed towards the middle. In this case, the growing roots will be directed towards the center of the ridge, which will make it easier in the future to water the plants into the groove in the center of the ridge.

Irises can be replanted at any time during the growing season. However, spring replanting may result in poor flowering this year. In the middle zone, optimal results are obtained when planting and replanting irises in August: the plants have enough time to take root and gain sufficient weight to fully bloom the next year. Irises planted later, that is, in the fall, usually remain healthy, but do not have time to take root before the onset of cold weather. This can lead to rhizomes sticking out of the ground when the soil freezes. To avoid bulging of the rhizome, additional mulching is required for the winter or simply fixing the rhizome with a suitable object at hand.

A common mistake when planting and caring for bearded irises is over-burying the rhizomes. It is recommended to plant irises so that the back of the rhizome is at the surface of the soil. In the winter, it is better to sprinkle the exposed rhizome with soil, and in the spring it needs to be raked off.

When caring for bearded irises, it is mandatory in the first weeks after planting the irises for successful rooting. To ensure abundant flowering, adult specimens of bearded irises require watering only when there is insufficient precipitation, especially in May, when the weather is often hot and dry, sometimes in June-July. However, in August, and even more so in September-October, adult bushes no longer need watering. At this time, the plant is preparing for winter, and its growth should not be stimulated.

Irises should be fed both in early spring and 3-4 weeks after flowering. Fertilizing with soluble fertilizers gives a quick effect: in the spring - complex with microelements, in July-August - potassium phosphate.

For the successful cultivation of bearded irises, phosphorus is the most important of the main nutrients; therefore, when preparing a site for irises, it is advisable to fill the soil with superphosphate (100 g/m2) or bone meal(200-300 g/m2). Can be used for spring-summer fertilizing complex fertilizer with a low nitrogen content, for example, NPK=6:10:10. The autumn mixture has a ratio of NPK = 0:13:18, it also contains magnesium and elemental sulfur, the latter being 5%. The spring mixture for feeding has the formula NPK=8:37:11.

The best organic fertilizer for iris culture - well-rotted compost.

Bearded irises successfully grow in one place for 4-5 years. The specific timing of bush renewal depends both on the variety and on the agricultural technology used. Some time after planting, the iris bush thickens, which ultimately leads to the cessation of flowering. How quickly thickening occurs depends on the multiplication rate of the variety. Some varieties are characterized by vigorous growth, and at the same time are not too demanding on external conditions.

As the bush ages, it is advisable to increase the amount of fertilizing. If these measures do not bring the desired effect, the bush needs to be dug up entirely, the soil should be updated by adding mature compost and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, and plant 3-4 of the strongest shoots, shortening the leaves by about 2/3.

Many modern varieties do not need shelter for the winter. If the variety is chosen for the beauty of the flower, but is not winter-hardy enough, additional efforts will be required in preparing for winter. The main problems for irises in winter in the middle zone arise when an ice crust forms on frozen ground without snow, preventing the plants from breathing.

It is convenient to cover irises with spruce branches or oak leaves, which have the property of not caking. To prevent such a frame from getting wet, it must be covered with a non-woven covering material or film - under them the irises will not smear in winter.

Irises overwinter best under dry air cover by first drying the ridge, which usually takes one month. The easiest way to provide protection from rain is to use a thick reinforced film laid on arches or directly on the foliage of irises. The ends of the shelter should be open for free air circulation, and they should be closed for the winter. The estimated construction time for the shelter is late October - early November.

In spring, the film is removed from the shelter as early as possible, immediately after the snow melts, and other material is removed as needed.

Varietal irises are propagated vegetatively, that is, by dividing the rhizomes. To speed up propagation, you need to remove the flower bud located at the base of the fan of leaves in the fall. After this, the plant’s lateral buds begin to grow, which form new powerful shoots in the spring. There is no need to dig up the rhizome to separate them. On a dry sunny day, you need to rake away the ground, tear off the dried and yellowing leaves, and cut the remaining green leaves to the rhizome. The cut must be disinfected and left to dry in the sun. After the wound has healed after a few days, the rhizome needs to be mulched with soil so that the awakening buds can form roots. Often recommended for propagating irises, dividing the rhizome into bud cuttings is much less effective way, since in this case the plant is severely injured and, as a result, flowering occurs much later.

For propagation, dormant buds on 2-3-year-old rhizomes can also be successfully used. To do this, pieces of rhizomes are cut out from the middle of the bush and simply transplanted to a new place.

New varieties of tall bearded irises for the middle zone

The description provides the following information: name of the bearded iris variety, originator, year of registration, characteristics of the flower, flowering period.

Sundress

Pirogov 2000

Golden-smoky top with a lilac touch. On the white field of the bottom there are purple dots and strokes, a golden-smoky border. Bright yellow pistil ridges glowing in the depths of the flower. Exceptionally vigorous growth and regular abundant and long-lasting flowering. Early.

Queen

Sholupov 2003

Rich purple-violet, with a velvety lobe texture and powerful corrugation. The exhibition peduncle easily holds several simultaneously open flowers. Average term flowering.

Cranberry Sauce

Black 2002

Cranberry South

A silky-brilliant flower with a lilac-crimson tint. Yellow beards highlight the magnificent depth of color. Average flowering time.

Darcy's Choice

Schreiner 2007

Aarsis Choice is a flower of original color with white beards on crimson halyards. Wonderful branched peduncle. Average flowering time.

Dawn then Dusk

Schreiner 2008

Aoun Tu Dusk

Bicolor pink and purple flower, on acidic soils acquiring a unique gray hue: unexpected and attractive. Medium late.

Edgefield Glow

Schreiner 2011

Edgefield Glow

An exceptionally bright orange flower with dark tangerine beards. This new variety of bearded irises has incomparable color and excellent growth vigor, unlike other orange forms. Mid-early.

Never Been Kissed

Blyth 2008

Never Vin

Kissed Fashionable reverse: blue top and pure white bottom. Luxurious flower delicate color. Distinctive feature- the best corrugation to date. Mid-early.

Palace Symphony

Blyth 2007

Palace Symphony

A purple-wine flower with almost black beards and exceptional ruffles. A variety that combines best features American and Australian selection. Average flowering time.

Royal Birth

Royal 2003

Royal Burf