Self-assembly and the installation of interior door units does not require highly qualified or special skills from the performer. Serial connection of parts in accordance with the instructions and careful installation in doorway will allow you to get a satisfactory result even with the efforts of a beginner. You just need to stock up on the necessary tools and patience.

Methods for installing interior doors

There are different ways to install a door between rooms. It all depends on what its design is and what material it is made of. door block. A significant role in choosing one installation method or another is played by its intended purpose. If this is, for example, a door to the living room, then special strength is not required. But if the door separates the passage corridor from the server room, in which high-sensitivity devices or units with voltages exceeding 1000 volts are located, then in the interests of safety it is advisable to install a high-strength door. Accordingly, the installation method in the second case must meet completely different requirements.

There are the following methods of fastening a door block in an opening.

1. Fixing the frame on the mounting foam. The simplest, but not the most reliable way installations. Suitable for lightweight doors made of small fiberboard or MDF.

   When dry, the polyurethane foam firmly glues the door frame to the wall opening

2. Installing the door frame on brackets. As a rule, everything plastic doors(as well as windows) are mounted in exactly this way. Metal plates are used as brackets, which are used for suspended ceilings. The thickness of the direct suspension ranges from 1 to 1.5 mm, so the mount is quite rigid. The main disadvantage of this method is the need to plaster the place where the bracket is attached. The method is applicable when the walls have not yet been finished.

   Ceiling hanger is used as a bracket to fix the door frame

3. Hidden installation, i.e. fixing the door frame under the hinges in three places. The rest of the space is filled with foam. The result is a fairly strong and invisible mount to prying eyes. The frame suspension points are located in the following order:
   • two - under the hinges;
   • one is under the counter lock plate.
4. End-to-end method. Installation is carried out using screws or anchors. Holes are drilled in the frame through which it is attached to the wall. Typically, two to four fixation points are used on each vertical post and one to two on the vertical bars. To prevent the holes from being visible, they are covered with plastic plugs on top. This type of fastening is considered the most durable and is used for heavy doors, including metal and armored.

   With direct fixation, the frame is firmly attached to the wall and can support a heavy and powerful door

5. Fixing the door frame on hinges. New way, developed relatively recently. Its essence is that the box is suspended on special hinges. Anchors are installed at the ends of the opening and screwed onto the frame metal hinges. During installation, the loop is placed on the head of the adjustable bolt. This method is good in cases where the doorway is uneven. Installation is very fast.

   A set of simple fasteners allows you to install the door in a matter of minutes

In practice, several methods are often used simultaneously, and fixation methods are also combined depending on the specific situation. In any case, polyurethane foam is almost always used today; it serves not only as fasteners, but also as a heat-insulating and sound-absorbing layer.

Video: technology for quickly installing doors in 15 minutes

What is required to install an interior door

As with any other installation work, for the successful installation of interior doors you need special tools and consumables.

Required Tools

Getting started self-installation interior doors, you need to equip yourself with the appropriate tools:

• electric drill with a set of attachments (for screws with various slots);
• a set of wood drills (the larger the range, the better);

  A distinctive feature of a wood drill is its sharp tip.

• hammer drill (if fastening is carried out on anchor devices);
• electric or hand furniture saw (ideally a miter saw a circular saw);

  Using a miter saw, blanks for the door frame, trim and additional elements are quickly and efficiently prepared

• Pobedit drills or drills for concrete (diameter 4 and 6 mm);
• miter box, a set of chisels of different widths;

  The miter box is designed for cutting parts at different angles

• measuring instrument - hydraulic level, tape measure, square, etc.;

  The accuracy of measurements during the assembly of interior doors is reflected in the quality of their further operation.

• knife, pencil, marker.

You will also need consumables:

What cutters are needed to install interior doors

If you have the opportunity to purchase or rent a router, you should definitely take advantage of it. Using a hand router, selecting hinges and locks is significantly faster. There is no need for chisels, and the quality of the grooves improves. In order to optimize the process, it is advisable to use small diameter cutters. Thanks to this, you will have to cut less wood at the corners by hand. For example, for door hinges A cutter with a diameter of 9.5 mm is ideal. To remove the lock, a groove cutter of appropriate length is used (to the depth of insertion of the locking device).

The main characteristics of a groove cutter include the height and diameter of its working part, as well as the size of the shank for clamping the router

The average installation time for one door for a professional carpenter is 2 hours. If the hinges and lock are cut manually without using a router, this time increases to 3 hours.

Box trim saw

A few words about the electric saw. When installing one door, of course, there is no point in buying a “circular”, especially an end door. You can use regular hand saw with a small (furniture) tooth.

Using a saw with small, straight teeth, you can make even and clean cuts of parts.

But if there is construction or reconstruction of an entire apartment in which from 5 to 15 doors are installed, you can at least think about renting tools. The quality and speed of assembly using a miter saw increases several times. Much also depends on the type of doors and trim. Some have to be adjusted to the required dimensions, others require virtually no cutting.

Preparing the opening for installing an interior door

The main task when preparing a doorway is to:

• removing excess materials from the end of the wall (residues polyurethane foam, plaster, broken bricks, etc.);
• creating the correct geometric shape of the hole in the wall (rectangle, not trapezoid).

If the brickwork is in poor condition, it must be plastered with cement mortar.

In new buildings, doorways should theoretically have dimensions close to standard. However, in practice this does not always happen. In a house or apartment where reconstruction is taking place, the old doors must be dismantled before installing new ones. If the opening is damaged, it must be restored - leveled and plastered.

The quality of installation of the door block is influenced by the following geometric parameters of the opening.

Height

The height is measured from the “clean floor”, i.e. from the level of the finishing floor covering - laminate, tiles, linoleum, etc. It is necessary that the height is the same over the entire plane. A similar requirement is imposed on the floor - there should be no bumps or holes on it, especially if the door being installed does not contain a threshold in its design - all defects will remain visible. The height of the opening should be 6–7 cm greater than the vertical size of the door itself.

The dimensions of the doorway must take into account technological tolerances for installing the frame and the required installation clearances

Width

The width of the opening is subject to similar requirements - it must be the same along the entire height of the door. Vertical planes should be located at right angles to the floor and be parallel. If this is not the case, the sidewalls need to be leveled. The width of the doorway is determined based on the width of the door leaf - 10 cm is added to it (5 cm on each side).

Thickness (or depth) of the opening

An important condition that must be observed when preparing the opening is that the end must have a rectangular shape. In the lower part, at the intersection with the floor, a right angle (90°) should be formed. If the thickness of the walls is not the same, cracks will form under the platbands, which, in fact, is a defect.

Video: preparing a doorway before installing an interior door

Do-it-yourself interior door installation: step-by-step instructions

Since the vast majority of doors in everyday life have a swing design, let’s consider the installation procedure using the example of a typical interior door.

The most common type of interior doors has a swing opening mechanism

Rules and procedure for installing interior doors

Installation of a swing interior door is carried out in the following order.

1. Development of a scheme for fastening the door frame in the opening. At this stage, it is necessary to clearly imagine (or better yet, sketch) the method of fastening. In our case, this will be fixation with self-tapping screws and polyurethane foam. It is also necessary to decide on the side into which the door will open. If there is no pre-thought-out plan, the following hint will help solve the problem: in small rooms, such as a toilet, pantry and bath, it is customary to open the door inwards. It is better to exit to the corridors from large rooms outside.

   The most common way to fix the frame in doorway is installation using anchor fastening on polyurethane foam

2. Door frame installation. It is advisable to place the door that arrives from the store on a level surface. horizontal surface- table, chairs or on the floor and unpack. Assembly is carried out using 3.5 mm thick wood screws. Before screwing in the self-tapping screw, it is necessary to drill a hole that will prevent the wood piece (fibreboard, MDF, chipboard) from splitting. A drill of a smaller diameter is used, in particular 3 mm. For the same reasons, there is no need to screw the screws close to the edge of the parts - the standard distance is at least 5 diameters, i.e. 1.5 cm. To securely fasten the horizontal strips of the door frame, four screws are enough - two on each side.

   When assembling the frame on the floor, place cardboard from the packaging under the box

3. Trimming posts. Typically, a door frame is sold with a height margin of 5–7 cm. After fixing the side parts, it is necessary to measure the exact size and cut off the excess. To do this, the height of the opening is measured and transferred to the frame. It should be taken into account that there should be a technological gap of 2–2.5 cm between the frame and the wall. This gap is needed so that the frame can be aligned horizontally and vertically inside the opening.

   The length of the side posts is adjusted after measuring the height of the opening

4. Installing the frame in the doorway. If until this moment the door leaf was inside the frame, then to install the frame into the wall, the leaf must be removed. The frame is installed in the designated place and leveled using a level. Primary fixation is performed using plastic or wooden wedges. It is very convenient to use a set of thin wedges; with their help you can accurately align the box along all axes. It should be remembered that the racks of the box must be vertical in two perpendicular planes - on the side of the canvas and on the side of the wall. Proper operation of the door block depends 80% on the correct position of the door frame. A number of interior door models have a special decorative strip that is detached and drilled underneath mounting holes. Upon completion of installation, the bar is put in place. To secure the frame with screws, you need to drill 3-4 holes with a diameter of 4 mm on each rack and transfer them to the wall with a pencil or marker. After this, the box is removed and sockets for dowels are drilled in the wall according to the markings. Do not forget that wood drills do not work in concrete. Brickwork drill with a hammer drill and a stone drill. The diameter of the drill is 6 mm, the size of the plastic sleeve. When the holes are ready and the dowels are inserted into the wall, the frame returns to its original position and is pre-fixed (“baited,” as the craftsmen say). Before the final tightening of the screws, the position of the vertical and horizontal parts of the box is checked again. Tightening is done in a circle, first tightening the screws half-heartedly, then with maximum force. In order not to overtighten the fasteners, during tightening the verticality of the racks is checked with a long two-meter level or rule.

   The use of a construction laser level increases the accuracy of door frame installation

5. Installing the door leaf on the hinges. Since we are considering a lightweight interior door made of MDF or fiberboard, one person can hang the door on its hinges. It is enough to lift the door above the awnings and carefully place the hinges on the axis. After this, the door leaf must be closed and checked for correct positioning. If the door is installed in compliance with all technological standards (3-4 mm gaps on each side), it will move inside the frame easily and without effort on the part of a person. When open, the sash will not slam shut spontaneously, and when closed, it will not open. If the purchased door does not have recesses for hinges, you will need to make them yourself. To do this, a cutter is inserted into the tool, the depth of immersion into the wood is adjusted, and a groove is selected according to a pre-marked size using a translational movement. The accepted location of the hinges is 20–25 cm from the upper and lower edges of the sash.

   The hinges are placed at the top and bottom at the same distance from the edges of the door leaf

6. Filling the seams with polyurethane foam. This is a crucial moment, since such important door parameters as sound insulation and heat resistance depend on the filling density. It is better to use polyurethane foam with a low expansion coefficient. To speed up the setting and hardening of the polyurethane, the walls and door frame are moistened with water (sprayed from a spray bottle). Filling is done sequentially, from bottom to top, so that there are no voids left, but at the same time foam flakes do not fall on the floor. During the operation, it is advisable to cover the door with film, since prolonged contact with polyurethane can cause stains to appear on the laminated surface. As the foam dries, it increases in volume, so the seams are initially filled by 30–40%. After complete hardening (after 24 hours at an air temperature of 20 o C), the excess is cut off with a sharp knife. It is not recommended to open the door leaf during foaming and drying. It is advisable to insert pieces of packaging cardboard into the gaps (along the perimeter). This will prevent deformation and sagging of the frame if there is too much foam.

   It is better to fill installation gaps with foam from the bottom up, carefully treating the voids

7. Doorway trim. Upon completion of the door installation, it is necessary to tidy up the opening. To do this, slopes or platbands are installed in it. For interior doors, finishing with slopes is rarely done (although this is also practiced, depending on the installation location and the function of the door). The most common type of finishing is platbands and extensions. If the size of the wall is small and the width of the door frame coincides with it, platbands are installed on both sides and the finishing of the opening ends there. If the width of the box is not enough to cover the wall completely, add-ons are used. With their help, the plane of the frame expands, and the platbands are no longer attached to the frame, but to the extensions. It’s interesting that designers sometimes deliberately select colors for the extensions that contrast with the color of the door. Such solutions are original in nature and emphasize the door as an element of the interior. Installation of platbands is carried out in several ways, depending on their design:
   • groove connection;
   • gluing to the wall;
   • hidden nails.
8. Installation of accessories. The door handle and lock are usually included with the door. Or at least installation holes are prepared in the canvas. If they are not there, you need to mark the sash and use a router and electric drill to cut holes of the required size (for pre-purchased components). You should follow the instructions for installing the lock and door handle, which are included with the products. Approximate installation height door lock is 90–110 cm from the floor. The handle is mounted at the same height, 10–15 cm away from the edge of the door leaf.

   The method of installing a door lock depends on its design, and it is usually located at a height of 90–110 cm from the floor

The type of connection between vertical platbands and horizontal ones can be different - rectangular or diagonal. From an installation point of view, a rectangular connection is considered simpler. For a diagonal joint, it is important to accurately cut the workpieces at an angle of 45 degrees. For this, craftsmen use a miter circular saw. But for small volumes, you can also use a carpenter’s miter box.

The diagonal connection of the platbands requires a perfectly even cut at an angle of 45 degrees, which is carried out using a miter box or a circular saw

Many modern models of interior doors contain in their design rubber compressor. Its installation is most often carried out by gluing. Removable from the inside protective film, and the seal is carefully glued around the perimeter of the entire door leaf.

Video: how to properly install an interior door

Installation of double doors

Double-leaf door blocks are a popular interior decoration. They fit especially harmoniously into wide doorways and emphasize the spaciousness of the room. Doors with two leaves are:

When assembling swing double doors, the algorithm remains the same as for a single leaf door. But there is one nuance associated with the door suspension. The first to be installed on the hinges is the sash with the latch, which is cut into the upper part of the leaf ahead of time. After installing the sash on the hinges, fix it with a latch and begin installing the other half of the door. In this way, the alignment of the canvases is achieved in relation to the frame and among themselves. The gaps adopted for a single-leaf door are also relevant for the double-leaf version.

The latch holds the door leaf in a stationary position

The sliding design of double doors is different in that it does not have a frame in the usual sense. The door leaves are supported by a suspended profile equipped with a rocker mechanism. Naturally, the installation of such a door differs from the assembly swing structures. Installation is carried out on straight walls with sufficient space (space is needed for opening doors).

Around sliding door it is necessary to provide a reserve of free space for those leaving when opening the racks

Installation begins with the assembly and fastening of guide profiles (which can be either on top or below the doorway). Next, the procedure must be carried out in this sequence.

1. Mounting brackets with fittings (carriages and movable rollers) on canvas.

   A diagram of fastening the door leaf to the rocker mechanism indicating the weight of the door leaf is attached to each product

2. Installation of sashes on the hanging mechanism.
3. Fastening stoppers (rubber opening limiters).

   Using the limiter, the free movement of the door leaf is adjusted to protect it from impacts on nearby objects and surfaces

4. Installation of extensions and platbands on the doorway.
5. Installation of additional door hardware (brushes, seals, grips).

On preparatory stage The wall plane is marked and leveled. This is important because the door leaves are constantly moving along the walls.

The main document that you need to read when installing sliding doors is the assembly instructions from the manufacturer. It reflects technical requirements installation instructions and basic operating rules.

Video: installing a double swing door

Interior doors are usually installed after installation in the room. finishing works. In particular, it is not recommended to prime, plaster or paint the walls after installing the doors. High humidity negatively affects the wood-based material - deformation and bending are possible structural elements door block.

Installation of interior sliding doors

A sliding door is one of the options for sliding interior doors. Unlike a double-leaf design, an interior sliding door can be single-leaf, three-leaf or even four-leaf. Moreover, one or two canvases can move. Installation is carried out in the same order as for a sliding door in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

Sliding doors save space in small rooms

Video: installation of interior sliding doors

Installation of sliding door structures

A characteristic feature of sliding interior doors is the movement of the door leaf along a support profile located on the floor. Installation is carried out after finishing floor. The guide profile is installed in parquet, laminate, ceramic tiles or other floor covering. Often the door leaf is hidden in a wall cavity specially prepared for this purpose.

Before installing the sliding door, a false wall is built to hide the door

There are options for making a false wall or a plasterboard box for sliding interior doors. But in any case, the suspension mechanism remains identical to that of all other types of sliding doors.

Video: installation of sliding interior doors

Installation of sliding interior doors

Sliding interior doors save space in small spaces. But their installation requires certain conditions, the main one of which is the availability of space to move the door leaf. Sliding doors can be single-leaf or double-leaf. The supporting rocker mechanism is usually located on top, and a restrictive profile is mounted below, which prevents the canvas from swaying during movement.

When planning are used various options location of the leaf in the doorway

Installation of glass doors

Glass doors are very original solution for interior decoration. Like doors made of other materials, they come in swing and sliding types. In private residential construction, the swing type is usually used glass doors. In general, the principle and procedure for their installation does not differ from the standard one, but there are several features.

1. The glass door leaf cannot be adjusted to dimensions; it cannot be sawed or cut. Therefore, to avoid mistakes, doors are ordered after finishing walls and doorway (when the dimensions no longer change).
2. Installing a door is not a task you can do alone. The weight of the glass sheet is usually from 50 to 70 kg; it is difficult and dangerous for one person to manipulate such a sash.
3. A glass interior door is mounted on a wooden or metal frame.
4. The durability of glass doors is limited only by the wear resistance of the hinges. Pendulum hinges are considered the most reliable.

To assemble the glass door hanger, mounting holes are cut in the door leaf at the factory.

Holes for installing hinges are cut at the glass door manufacturer. You need to drill holes for the lock and handle yourself, using a glass drill of the required diameter.

Holes in the glass are drilled with special drills at low speeds

The advantage of glass interior doors is their almost unlimited service life. Their appearance not subject to mechanical or chemical stress, strength glass block comparable to the strength of metal. The only thing that needs to be monitored is the safety of the hinges and fittings. Timely lubrication and removal of contamination are two necessary conditions for long-term operation glass interior doors.

Video: installation of glass interior doors

Installation of fittings on interior doors

Installation of fittings is perhaps the most crucial moment in installing interior doors. It is when performing this part of the work that errors occur, leading to rapid breakdowns. Therefore, when starting self-assembly, you need to get ready for painstaking “jewelry” work. Mistakes are too expensive.

So, the accessories include:

All elements of fittings require precise insertion into the plane of the door leaf or frame, and this presents a certain difficulty for novice carpenters. The permissible error cannot be exceeded by more than 1 mm. Otherwise, there are no firm guarantees for the stable operation of the mechanisms.

The sample is made manually(chisels) or using a power tool. At this stage of work, a manual electric router is used.

Thanks to its high-speed operation, the router makes neat and clean cuts in wood

Sequence of work

Installation of fittings on a swing interior door is carried out in the following order.

1. Marking. Before you start cutting the hole, you need to determine where to install the hinges. As noted above, in order to evenly distribute the weight of the door leaf, the hinges are located symmetrically 20–25 cm from the edges of the door leaf. The contours of the loop are drawn with a sharp pencil and outlined around the perimeter with a knife, scalpel or semicircular chisel.

   It is advisable to outline the contour of the loop with a sharp pencil, thin awl or scalpel

2. Device seat for loops. Using a chisel, wood is gradually removed from the intended contour. It is necessary to control the groove depth within 2–3 mm. The accuracy of the cut is checked with a loop - when placing it in the designated place front part The fittings must coincide with the surface of the door end. When selecting hinges in MDF doors, the manual method is ineffective; it is advisable to use a router with a small diameter cutter.
   

   The hinges should be flush with the surface of the fabric

3. Preparing recesses in the frame. Having made the grooves and installed hinges in them, they proceed to the manufacture of similar seats in the door frame.
4. Installing an interior door handle. The operation consists of cutting out a seat for the lock and a hole for installing a rotary handle. It is difficult to do without a router here, especially for a person who does not have carpentry experience. Using a long cutter, select a groove of a certain depth for the lock. A small cutter is used to cut out the countersunk for the lock escutcheon and the strike plate. To accurately determine the location of the locking tongue, it is smeared with a coloring substance (nail polish, chalk, paint) and released onto the frame. A hole in the counter plate is installed in the designated location.

   The grooves for the door lock are made using a router

5. Installation of the latch. It is carried out depending on the design of the locking element. As a rule, installing a high-quality latch involves cutting out a masking groove. The device is applied to the edge of the door leaf, its shape is outlined and a groove is cut along it.

Video: inserting a lock into interior doors

How to check the correct installation of an interior door

Anyone who has to install for the first time interior doors, asks questions: is the door installed correctly and what needs to be done to make it last long and properly. There is a comprehensive answer to them, which consists of two points.

1. A sign of correctly carried out installation is the same technological gaps around the perimeter of the entire canvas. This means that if the gap around the sash is the same size everywhere, the canvas is hung correctly.
2. The door must pass a small test. When opening (and closing) the canvas, no noise should be heard. extraneous sounds, creaks, rustles (friction of one surface against another). The sash moves easily, without any effort. If the hand stops, the canvas also stops; it should not move on its own.

If these two conditions are met, the door is installed in accordance with technical and operational standards.

Often the installation of an interior door is preceded by dismantling. Disassembly is carried out in the reverse order of assembly.

1. Decorative elements are detached - platbands and extensions. To do this, use a pry bar or a large screwdriver. Decorative elements can be reused, so do not break them during dismantling. If these parts are kept intact, they can be painted or pasted over laminated film and apply when installing a new door.

   Platbands are removed using a pry bar or an ax

2. The fittings - locks and handles - are removed from the door leaf. The lock is unscrewed from the end of the door leaf. The rotary handle mount is located on one side of the door (at the bottom of the lever).
3. The door leaf is removed. To do this, open the sash at an angle of 90 o relative to the frame and lift it by the lower edge using a crowbar, pry bar or other lever. Once the fabric is removed from the hinges, the awnings can be detached and reused.

   To remove the fabric from the hinges, turn it at an angle of 90 degrees and lift it using a lever

4. The door frame is removed. To disassemble the frame with the least effort, it is necessary to determine where it is fixed to the wall. Sometimes this is difficult to do in old doors, especially if the opening has slopes made of cement mortar. Then the usual one will come to the rescue electric jigsaw. If the frame is not planned to be used in the future, it can be cut in cross section and separated from the wall in parts. This greatly speeds up the dismantling process. The top crossbar is also released in the same way.

   Using power tools speeds up door dismantling several times faster

If you don’t have firm confidence in your abilities, of course, it’s better to turn to professional installers, because proper assembly and installation is not the only thing, but necessary condition for long-term use of interior doors. But if you have at least a little experience in carpentry, and the operations described in this article do not give you any doubt about the possibility of repeating them, feel free to start installing the door yourself. You can save money and be absolutely sure of the quality of every action.

We will tell you how to properly install an interior door. You will learn about the intricacies of choosing components and what nuances can be used to understand the professionalism of the master. Interior doors must remain in their original packaging for at least 5 days in the room in which they will be installed.

Preparing boards for the door frame

First, let's check the height and width of the opening and make sure that the doors with the frame will easily fit into them.

Using a laser level, we will estimate the difference in floor height on each side of the doorway. In our case, it was 2 mm, and we need to take this distance into account when making the door frame. Let's say a few words about the master's tool:

For a quality installation, we can’t get by with just a hammer and a chisel. We will need a circular saw with turntable. Now, with its help, we will trim the door frame blanks. It would be very difficult to cut a beautifully veneered piece with a regular hacksaw. Let's start marking the door frame. Using a sharp knife, mark the places where the top part will be trimmed.

The plate allows you to immediately take into account the gap of the door in the frame. Usually it is 2-3 mm. A true master should have the following device in his arsenal that allows him to hold the door in a vertical position:

We mark the places for the hinges. Usually this is 20-25 cm from the edge.

Place one of the door frame boards on the door and install the bottom gap. Usually it is 8-10 mm. As a rule, interior doors are assembled without thresholds. Using a sharp knife, make notches for the hinges on the door frame board. Mark the top edge of the board. We lay the left and right boards of the door frame together, setting a slight shift of a few millimeters to compensate for the difference in floor height marked by the level.

In places where the door frame boards will be subsequently trimmed, we need to carefully remove the wrapped veneer with a chisel. If this is not done, then when cutting on the machine the board will be skewed and we will not be able to make a perfect cut at 45°. We install the board on the saw machine, and turn the saw itself for sawing at 45°.

The veneered board fits tightly to the machine at the back. We carefully cut at 45°. Three parts of the door frame are ready:

We mark the loops. This process has one feature - the loop is installed with the logo facing up.

It is better to mark the hinges on the door frame board with a sharp knife. If you are not confident, do it with a pencil, but remember that it has a certain thickness, which may cause error. When using a knife, the notches are made at an angle towards the future sample. This will allow you to install the hinges tightly and beautifully in the future.

Another the right tool craftsmen - manual milling machine. We set the width of the sample according to the width of the loop. The sampling depth is adjusted according to the thickness of the loop. Using a manual milling machine, work on making a sample in the door frame board is completed in a minute.

A correctly adjusted cutter will not remove anything unnecessary:

While working, the master must pay attention to his extreme notches and not go beyond them. The same work done with a chisel and hammer will not always be accurate, and it will also take more time.

Since the hinges have rectangular edges, we must use a chisel to remove the roundness at the corners. To do this, we will make two or three notches in the corners. This way we are guaranteed to remove the excess and not touch the wood behind the sample. This work must be done carefully and slowly. It depends on how beautiful the hinges in the door frame will look.

An important point is that the loop must enter the sample with force. It is recommended that before screwing the hinge, drill holes that are smaller in diameter than the screws. To avoid drilling into the floor, place a stop under the door frame board.

We also drill holes for the second hinge.

Door frame installation

Now we need to make holes for the screws that we will use to secure the door frame on the hinge side.

There is a rule here: the holes are made in the middle of the longitudinal and transverse axis, that is, for the top loop they should be made a little lower, and for the bottom loop a little higher. This way we achieve uniform fastening of the frame to the doorway. The recess should be deep enough so that the screw does not interfere with the installation of the hinges.

Let's make hidden holes in the places where we will attach the elements of the door frame to each other. Depending on the thickness of the box block, we will make a recess either higher or lower.

The main rule is that the blind is performed at an angle of 90° relative to the cut. In the upper element of the door frame we make a hidden hole in the center. Thus, the door frame will be fastened on each side in three places.

We screw the wood screws into the elements of the box. Here it is important to accurately align the parts and prevent their mutual displacement. If everything is done correctly, we will get the perfect angle. On the other side, let's perform the same operations.

Let's install assembled box in the doorway, and to prevent the box from falling, we will place several pieces of cardboard. Let's install a laser level and check the verticality of the door frame on the hinge side.

Now we will need wedges with which we will adjust the door gap and set the frame level. They can be made from scraps of box timber using a circular saw. First of all, we need to install wedges in the places where we will attach the door frame to the walls.

Additionally, we hammer one wedge into each of the upper corners of the box. We use a laser level to check the verticality of the installation. If necessary, we knock out or change the wedges.

The door frame should be positioned flush with the outer wall of the room. We fasten the box through the secretion made in the hinges.

Be sure to install wedges in the places where we attach the box. They should stay there forever. The door frame on the hinge side is fixed in two places and has three wedges. But the pretend side of the box has only one wedge on top. We will display it after hanging the door. Don't forget to use a level to check that the box is installed horizontally. Since we took into account the unevenness of the floor when cutting the frame bars, our level now shows the horizon.

While we are working on the door leaf, the pre-installed door frame must be partially foamed.

It takes some time for the foam to set a little before we hang the doors. First, the foam is applied in small portions from inside the room. The front part of the door frame is partially foamed using a line method. This is necessary so that we have the opportunity to move the hinged part of the door frame, aligning it with door leaf. You shouldn’t put too much foam.

Installation of door hardware

Now the door is placed again on a special stand. We will install door hardware.

And again we mark the hinges, but on the door leaf. We make marks with a sharp knife at an angle relative to the loops. Using a milling machine, we make cuts on the door leaf for hinges.

Using a chisel we also level the corners. We get an ideal selection for hinges in the door leaf. It is ideal because our loop is inserted inside with force, which means that there will be no gaps.

Let's look at how to properly drill holes for screws.

Drilling begins at an angle, resting on the edge of the loop, then the drill is set vertically, and we drill exactly in the center. This simple technique allows you to easily drill holes in the center of the hinges. We apply markings for installing the door latch. Usually it falls in the middle of the door.

When drilling a hole for the latch, be careful not to damage the excess veneer. To do this, set the rotation of the drill counterclockwise and apply a central marking with a drill. This way the drill will not jump off and tear the adjacent veneer. Then set the drill to normal drilling mode and drill the required hole. The drilling depth can be adjusted using a special marker that you apply to the drill. The marker in this case is ordinary electrical tape.

The hole is ready, and we insert the latch into it.

Please note that the diameter of the hole must exceed the internal thickness of the latch. Let's make marks using a knife.

And again we will use a milling machine, then use a wide chisel to make a selection of corners.

As usual, we'll make a few notches and then clean up the corners. Now insert the latch and fasten it with screws.

Installation of door leaf

Our foam has partially set. Now it will provide us with an elastic state of the box. Place a stop under the door and tighten the top hinge.

A lever may be required to get the bottom hinge to fit well. Don't forget to put a stop under it.

When the loop fits exactly into the groove, you can fasten it with two screws. While suspended, the vertical installation of the doors is checked.

Let's check the operation of the door frame seal. If it squeaks, coat it with a small amount of VD-40. We move on to aligning the front side of the door frame. When the door is hung, we can evaluate how perfect the door leaf is. And right now we have the opportunity to align the front part of the frame with the door. As in the previous case, we level this part of the box using wedges.

Slightly hardened polyurethane foam allows you to smoothly move the cover part of the box in one direction or another. Having finished the alignment, mark the center of the latch on the counter block of the box. When choosing door latches, give preference to those that have a protrusion on the mating part. With its help, you can regulate the closing force of the doors.

Having made the mark, we use the milling machine again.

This time we are making a recess for the door latch.

If necessary, rounded edges can be adjusted using a chisel. We drill out the fastening points of the mating part of the latch and fasten it with screws.

Now let's drill a hole in this cavity for the third mounting screw. Regardless of whether an anchor bolt or a self-tapping screw is used, it will be hidden inside this cavity. It is also necessary to install an additional wedge in this place.

Let's tighten the self-tapping screw, which will secure the front part of the box through the drywall to the inner beam of the load-bearing wall.

Installation of door handles

Now you can assemble the door handles. Use a hexagon to tighten the internal pin on one of the handles.

After inserting the handle, secure it with three self-tapping screws.

Let's insert the handle on the other side and do the same. Let's check the operation of the handle.

To complete the assembly of the handle, fix the second handle using a hexagon. Put on decorative caps on each side.

Now is the time to apply foam between the wall and the door frame on the outside of the door. Don't forget to screw the remaining screws into the door hinges.

Installation of accessories

The foam on the inside of the doors has already dried, this will allow us to move on to the next stage of door installation.

We need to install extensions on the inside of the room.

We determine the distance by choosing the most protruding part of the wall. Having taken measurements from above and below, we will choose the largest one. If there is a rounding in the inner groove of the box, it must be carefully cut off with a knife. This will allow you to place the extension in this groove quite tightly without gaps.

We perform this operation on the other side as well. If the foam sticks out, it needs to be cut off slightly.

Now we will really need a circular saw with a top table. By setting the emphasis to the specified width, we cut the extension boards perfectly. Trim the bottom edge of the extension.

We place the extension board, resting it on the upper groove of the door frame.

Let's do the same on the other side. And again we cut the boards to the final dimensions.

Clean the groove of the door frame into which we will insert the extensions from foam using a small piece of board. Let's do this around the entire perimeter of the door frame.

Let's install the extension boards into the vacated groove. To fix the extension, you need to wedge it in the upper corners of the door frame.

Using a level or a straight board, you need to ensure that the extension is either flush with the wall, or, if the wall is uneven, protrudes slightly.

The extension will hold perfectly if it is fixed with polyurethane foam. In this case, there is no need to make holes and attach it to the wall with screws. Once the foam has expanded and hardened, it can be cut flush with the wall.

So, we installed the extensions and foamed them with polyurethane foam to secure them. If you do everything using this technology, the door can be used in 20 minutes. All we have to do is wait for the foam to completely harden, cut it, plaster and level the sections of the wall adjacent to the door, hang wallpaper or paint the walls, and only then nail the casing. When plastering a doorway, do not allow wet plaster to come into contact with the door frame. Use here masking tape, remove the plaster immediately. To make the door fit more tightly, bend the protrusion on the mating part of the latch.

All rights to the video belong to: DoHow

Beginners, having decided to do all the work of installing interior doors themselves, often miss important nuances, which are well known to experienced craftsmen. An important point careful preparation for installation work and the use of reliable fasteners will be necessary.

A correctly installed door will close without extra effort, without falling apart, even if they clap periodically. The supporting base is the box. The reliability of the structure depends on how strong it is.

The structure must be correctly aligned - for this you need to purchase a building level. It is best to use a laser, as it is very convenient to work with.

Installation of interior doors is carried out in several stages. The door leaf and frame must be equipped with fittings. To make it convenient to close the door, you need to install a handle. If required, it can have a lock with a spring mechanism. Hinges should be made on the door and frame. The canvas can only be hung after preliminary adjustments have been made. After this, you can proceed to the installation of platbands.

How to markup

Installing doors with your own hands will require labor from a beginner. If the master completes the installation in 1 day, then a novice builder can spend much more time. This point must be taken into account if emergency installation of the structure is required.

It is important to complete all steps in a clear sequence, strictly observing building codes. A number of door blocks already have fastenings for installation. But there are products whose box will have to be assembled on your own. They are sets that include blocks of wood and strips for platbands. In addition, the manufacturer includes a door leaf in the finished kit.

If you decide to assemble the box yourself, you can use different methods. You need to pay close attention to the quality of the work, because if even the slightest error occurs in the measurements, you will either have to do all the work again or buy new parts of the structure.

You can install a door in an interior partition with or without a threshold. The most simple option It will be possible to install a structure without a threshold, but option 2 will require the presence of a timber strip. In this case finished design will look like a rectangle.

Step-by-step instructions will be of help. Before starting work, it is necessary to take exact measurements. First you need to find out the dimensions of the opening. Then you should make calculations by determining the dimensions of the side posts and the lintel. Then you need to determine optimal size door leaf, not forgetting the technological gaps. Having made the markings, the elements are sawed off using a hacksaw, and then the assembly of the interior doors begins.

It is important to correctly calculate the thickness of the box, which should be no less than the thickness of the wall. To ensure accurate measurements, you need to use a tape measure. Beginning builders should not rely on identical elements, such as side posts, being “mirror-like.” To avoid measurement errors, each element must be measured separately on the right side, and then on the left. If deviations are found in the process, they must be taken into account in further work.

How to install an interior door yourself? Particular care must be taken to position the fender beam, which must have a gap for the mounting foam. It is enough to allocate 1 cm to it. The same should be done with the lintel and hinge bar.

The gap on the inside should be much smaller, 0.3 cm is enough. If the interior door has a threshold, then the gap should go along the entire perimeter of the structure. When installing a structure without a threshold, a gap must be left between the floor and the canvas. The average value is 1 cm. Such assembly and installation of interior doors will be considered completed correctly.

On the vertical posts, marks for sawing are required, which are determined on inside bar. If the hole size is insufficient, it must be enlarged. If the hole is too large, it can be reduced by laying plasterboard cut to size.

Door installation options

To make the cut, it is better to use a lathe. In this case, installing the door frame will take little time. If you don’t have a machine, then a hacksaw and miter box are suitable alternatives.

When installing an interior door, you can use the following 2 methods:

• make a cut at an angle of 45º;
• do the work at an angle of 90º.

How to install an interior door with your own hands? If we talk about option 1, it is quite complicated. The work will require increased attention from an inexperienced carpenter. But as a result of carefully executed joining, you will get a product that looks very beautiful.

In order to connect several elements, you need to use self-tapping screws. You need to do it for them special holes. If the door is made of MDF, then the work should be carried out in advance, which will avoid damage to the workpieces. It is most convenient to work using a drill whose diameter is 3/4 of the diameter of the fasteners. It is best to buy self-tapping screws whose threads reach the head.

If we talk about method 2, it assumes that the cutting angle will be 90º. To perform the work you will need a hacksaw with fine teeth. The upper beam is attached to the vertical posts with 2 self-tapping screws; they are screwed in on each side. In order to make a threshold, the timber must be cut at a right angle.

The easiest way to assemble the structure is to lay out the elements on the floor or big table. The master must install the fittings. Carrying out interior decoration, it is necessary to secure the functional fittings correctly.

Don't forget about fire safety. In order to quickly evacuate the premises, it is necessary to install a door that opens outward.

How to install interior doors? There are several options. The hinges are hung on the right or left - there are universal products on sale. If previously it was possible to buy hinges that required careful insertion, now you can purchase products that do not require cutting the veneer.

You need to make an indent from the top edge of the canvas, 20 cm is enough. Then hang the loops. You should retreat the same distance from the bottom. Variations are possible: in these cases, they retreat 5 cm in both directions. The structure can be further strengthened by hanging 3 loops. It is placed 50 cm from the top line.

Self-installation of the door frame

In order to fix the box in the opening, you need to buy an anchor. The door will be held securely by 3 long screws. In addition, the structure will be supported by polyurethane foam.

You can drill a door frame made of wood without preparatory work. The installation procedure is as follows:

1. The door base is assembled on the floor.
2. The structure is lifted and installed in the opening.
3. Wedges are made from leftover lumber and placed between the walls and the frame. This creates a gap for the polyurethane foam.
4. Screwing in self-tapping screws. Leveling the base using a building level. The accuracy of the installation can be checked with a plumb line. If deviations are detected, they can be corrected by loosening or tightening the screws.
5. Installation of hinges and fabric. Before applying polyurethane foam, the box must be sealed with tape. You need to insert cardboard into the gap. The door is closed and the cavity is filled with foam.

After completing the installation work, you need to wait for the foam to dry completely. The excess can be trimmed off, and then the platbands can be installed.

So that it serves for many years, properly performing its function.

Read in the article

How to choose and install an interior door by size and configuration

Manufacturers offer products of various widths and heights, which allows you to choose the right model for any opening. Canvases for swing structures, manufactured in Russia and most EU countries, can have a width of 600 mm, increasing in increments of 100 mm. Minimum door width French made is 690 mm. The size change step is 100 mm.

When choosing a door leaf, you should take into account the dimensions of the door frame. If the opening is of irregular geometric shape, the minimum width is taken into account. Otherwise, it will need to be expanded, which will significantly complicate installation work.

Attention! The standard height of interior doors is 2 m.

When choosing a suitable product, you should also focus on the purpose of the room for which they are intended. For living rooms purchase canvases with a width of 60-120 cm, for the kitchen - at least 70 cm, for the bathroom or toilet - from 60 cm.

Contents of products sold may vary. In the maximum version, the delivery kit includes a door block. The installer will only need to cut the sides to size, align the structure evenly and secure it. In a minimal design, all elements of the door system are purchased separately and then installed together.

How to properly install an interior door with your own hands if you only change the door leaf

If the door frame is strong enough and completely suits the owners in terms of design and color, it is not necessary to completely change the system. Simply replacing the sash is enough. Next, we will tell you how to properly install it yourself when partially replacing structural elements.

How to remove an old door panel

How to install an interior door leaf yourself

When starting to install the sash, you should lift it to a small height and place a board underneath. We combine the elements of the upper and then the lower loop first. When figuring out how to install it yourself, it’s worth noting that it’s best to do this kind of work together. In this case, it will be possible to perform the installation more efficiently.

A video on how to properly install interior doors yourself will help you understand the nuances of replacing the door leaf.

Do-it-yourself installation of an interior door with a frame - step-by-step instructions

If you plan to do the installation yourself, the step-by-step instructions will help you better understand the process. We invite you to learn the nuances that will help you perform the installation efficiently.

What tools and consumables are needed for the job?

The list of tools, equipment and consumables will depend on design features the installed system, and how it is planned to install the interior doors. As a rule, you need to prepare:

• drill. If the work is carried out in an apartment building, then instead of a drill it is better to take a hammer drill;
• drills for wood 3-4 mm and concrete 4 and 6 mm;
• roulette;
• pencil;
• building level;
• for wood and concrete;
• polyurethane foam.

The procedure for dismantling the old door and carrying out work to strengthen the doorway

Do-it-yourself installation of interior doors should begin with dismantling the old structure. This should be done very carefully so as not to damage the doorway. For this:

• remove the door leaf from the hinges;
• we remove the platbands. To do this, insert an ax between the product and the wall and carefully press out the fasteners;
• dismantle the box, first removing all the fasteners. It is usually located near the lock and in the hinge area. The screws should be unscrewed at low speeds;
• we remove the extra.

After dismantling the door, you should carefully inspect the opening. Remains of old material should be completely removed. If there is mechanical damage, the geometry of the opening should be restored. This can be done using .

If a heavy interior door is to be installed in an apartment, measures to strengthen the doorway may be required, including:

• along the entire perimeter of the doorway;
• a piece to the size of the channels for the entire surface of the doorway;
• installation of channels into prepared grooves. To fix them in the opening, studs of suitable diameter are used;
• in the corners the individual elements are welded together.

How to install an interior door frame

After the opening is completely prepared, we suggest you figure out how to install the door frame of the interior door. The procedure will depend on the form of delivery of the item. Manufacturers offer a box:

• assembled. In this case, the assembled structure can be immediately mounted in the opening;
• in the form of elements cut to size. Having connected them together, the structure is installed in the opening;
• like a figured beam. In this case, the elements are cut off first the right size, then they are connected to each other and only then the box is mounted.

Let's look at the last installation option in more detail.

Taking measurements and assembling the door frame

We measure the parameters of the doorway using a tape measure of sufficient length. When determining height vertical racks and the length of the crossbars, the gaps between the frame and the door leaf should be taken into account. They are selected from the range of 5-10 mm. The gap between the floor and the sash may be larger.

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" Measurements of the same parameter should be made at several points.

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Illustration	Description of action
	We cut off the elements, ensuring the formation of the selected angle. Box elements can be located at right angles or 45°. There are other more complex options that you should not resort to when doing the installation yourself. It is better to entrust them to a master.
	We mark up the elements.
	We cut off the elements using a fine-toothed tool.
	We form landing grooves and connect the elements to each other. We check the correctness of the work performed by placing the sash in the assembled box. There should be equal gaps on all sides.

Installing hinges

Mark the place where the loops will be located. Usually this is 20-25 cm above the bottom edge of the sash and below the top. We remove a layer of material equal to the width of the fittings. In this case, the fastening will be flush. This can be done using a chisel or special tool.

Attention! When creating a space for the hinges of an interior door, you should work extremely carefully so as not to damage the decorative layer.

Installation of the frame in the doorway

We install the assembled box in the doorway:

Illustration	Description of action
	We provide the required spatial arrangement using pegs or timber. Auxiliary elements can be fixed level before installing the box at the level of future hinges.
	We screw the box using suitable fasteners. The space between the box and the wall can be filled with foam.

How to install an interior door leaf

Quite an important moment for those who learn how to install interior doors. First, you should screw the mating part of the hinges to the door leaf or mark mounting holes, if you decide to use non-separable fittings. How to insert an interior door? Simply put it on the loops. After this, you should make sure that it opens and closes well.

Installation of additional elements

Installation of platbands

Before installation, the platbands are sawed at an angle of 45°. They are nailed to the box with finishing nails or nails without heads.

The market offers a large assortment various doors. But sometimes it is difficult to choose a model that fully meets the owner’s needs. There are plenty of reasons - a significant difference in dimensions (block/opening), low quality of products, unsuccessful external design, high price and so on. For a person who is familiar with household tools, making interior doors with your own hands is not a problem. In many cases, this solution is the most rational.

Preparation stage

Personally designing or assembling something requires careful analysis of many factors and selection of the most appropriate option.

Material

Considering the organization of production at home, best option– doors made of wood. On sale there are interior models from different materials– plastics, glass, aluminum – but working with them requires not only experience, but also special tools. In addition, wood has an undeniable advantage - it is able to “breathe”, which has a beneficial effect on the microclimate in the house.

Engineering solution

Interior doors are divided into several types - hinged, folding, sliding (compartment). Models also differ in design– single-leaf, “double”, “one and a half”. Some of them have an upper extension - a transom. What is it advisable to focus on? Without professional skills, special tools, or machine equipment, you should choose a swing interior door with one leaf.

These are the most popular varieties installed inside apartments and private houses. If you study step by step instructions for the design of doors of all types, it is the swing “one-room doors” that are easier to manufacture. In addition, preparing the opening for their installation does not require complex technological operations.

Blade type

• Paneled. The advantage of interior doors in this category is their relatively light weight. The canvases consist of wooden frame and inserts that differ in size, material, shape. The difficulty is that the panels will have to be fixed to it, and for this you need to select quarters in the tree. Even with professional tools (equipment) at hand, independent production of interior doors of this type (if we mean quality) is a big question. To achieve the desired result, you will have to spend a lot of time and material, the consumption of which will be significant, since the volume of rejection will increase.

• Shield. This solution is optimal. The only downside is the weight. But this problem can also be solved if you choose boards of small thickness. Since we are talking about interior doors and not entrance doors, the strength of the door leaf is not a primary factor. But there are many more advantages: ease of assembly, the possibility of any finishing (varnishing, tinting, brushing, lining with plastic, decorative film, natural veneer - different design styles are practiced), high maintainability.

In addition, the door dampens noise well and is characterized by low thermal conductivity. There is another factor that many people overlook. Wood is prone to deformation (it “plays” under the influence of changes in humidity and temperature in the house). A solid door is less susceptible to this than a paneled model, especially if the inserts are made of a different material. For example, glass, plastic.

Lumber

• The type of wood does not play a big role if subsequent finishing of the canvas and frame is planned. You can partially save on this by choosing inexpensive products. But if you decide to make a door from boards while maintaining their texture, then the answer to the question of what to buy is obvious.
• Degree of wood drying. According to SNiP, lumber with a moisture content exceeding 22% cannot be used in construction. When applied to doors, experts advise focusing on 10 - 12. Wet wood will shrink and the structure will “lead.” If the samples are thoroughly dried, then, firstly, they will cost more, and secondly, there will be difficulties with cutting them. In addition, excessively dry wood easily splits, and this will cause problems with fastening fittings and inserting locking devices.

Varieties and dimensions

• Frame. A beam with a side of 40 - 50 mm is sufficient for the frame of the canvas. It is necessary to take into account the installation location of the door, that is, how intensively it will be used. Plus - the specifics of the room at the entrance to which it is installed; Is the door supposed to be equipped with a lock, and if so, what type. The latter fully applies to canopies.
• Canvas. To reduce the weight of the interior door and facilitate the manufacturing process, it is advisable to use MDF for covering the frame. Another argument in favor of this decision is slab material(if it is of high quality, carefully processed) inert to humidity and temperature. If you want to make a door from solid wood, 10 boards with a width of 150 are suitable.
• Box Rarely does anyone leave an old joint in place. If a new door is being assembled, it must be completely complete. When choosing timber, you need to take into account the thickness of the wall (partition) at the installation site. There is no other recommendation for this item other than sufficient strength of the jamb.

The choice of material is largely determined by the door drawing. The interior door leaf is made in different ways; it can be solid, hollow or “cellular”. The last option is called small-hollow.

Door diagram

• Dimensions. The initial data for calculations are the dimensions of the opening. For accuracy of calculations, its width is measured at 3 levels; similarly with height - at three points (on the sides and in the center). It is worth considering that a technological gap of 4±1 mm is left between it and the box around the perimeter. This is the outer contour of the jamb. Provided that the width of the canvas is of decisive importance, then everything else is calculated based on its required dimensions. In this case, the gap between it and the jamb (within 1 mm) is also taken into account.

In practice, make wooden doors with your own hands, without work experience, in exact accordance with the specified values, it is difficult, but it is advisable to adhere to exactly these values. And the main thing is the correct shape (rectangle) of the door frame. The slightest curvatures, distortions - and problems with a tight fit of the canvas are guaranteed.

• The direction of opening the canvas. When determining it, the location of the opening in the room is taken into account; The pictures explain this well.

Manufacturing procedure

The assembly of an interior door is carried out using different methods. But if the meaning of all operations is clear, then developing your own technology is not difficult.

Box

It’s quite simple with it - assemble a rectangular structure, and only then place it in the opening. But installation is recommended only after the fabric has been manufactured. This makes it easier to mark the places where the awnings and latch (lock) are attached. Doing this on a jamb already installed in the opening is much more difficult. In addition, it is necessary to select the grooves for the door. Therefore, after the box is knocked down, you still have to return to it.

Canvas

It all depends on its chosen pattern, and therefore where to start - with tying or cutting MDF boards, is decided based on the door drawing.

Frame making

The technology is simple - a rectangular shape is assembled according to the size of the sash. But there are options for filling it.

• Stiffening ribs are installed in the form of vertical posts. This solution is advisable if the frame is planned to be sheathed with MDF or plywood - the strength of the coating will be ensured.

• One horizontal jumper in the center. A good solution for insulating an interior door. For example, installed in a passage leading to a cold room (utility room). The canvas is filled with expanded polystyrene, and its slabs are foamed around the perimeter.

• Leave one frame without additional elements(small hollow-core design). How to fill it and whether to do it is decided depending on the specifics of the room. But this frame option is only suitable for interior doors that are covered with boards. Otherwise, there can be no talk of strength.

Fabrication

• Its dimensions are known; All that remains is to cut the MDF into 2 - 3 fragments, according to the drawn up drawing.
• The second stage is assembling the harness. That is, the frame is assembled using a ready-made canvas.

Advice. To make work easier, it is recommended to mark all workpieces. On individual samples (according to the diagram), cuts, cuts, and drillings are first made for installing door hardware elements. This is much easier than doing such work on an assembled large structure. The difficulty is that the marking must be extremely accurate.

Door processing

• It is advisable to use the antiseptic again. Since material sampling and drilling were done, individual areas may be “exposed.” Secondary use of the anti-rot composition eliminates this disadvantage.
• Surface design. Options are marked: stain, varnish, veneer, film - depending on the design concept.

Preparation for installation

At this stage, latches, eyes, handles and hinges are installed on the canvas. The box is placed in the opening, aligned and securely fixed.

All that remains is to hang the door, align the second half of the canopy with the mounting holes and secure it with self-tapping screws (included in the kit).

“Finishing chord” - checking the correct operation of the canvas, tightness, absence of distortions; If deficiencies are identified, eliminate them. All further measures - insulation of the opening, installation of platbands, decorative design - are a slightly different topic.

Making an interior door at home is quite possible. Success largely depends on proper work planning, choosing the optimal design scheme and your own diligence. And quality is ensured good tool, the purchase of which is not worth sparing money.