Making a circular machine with your own hands. Do-it-yourself stationary circular saw: manufacturing instructions How to make a machine from a circular saw

Reading time ≈ 4 minutes

A circular saw is used to cut wood and plastic. Her cutting base- a flat metal disk with a serrated outer edge. When choosing such a tool, everyone decides for themselves what type they need: tabletop, manual, stationary. Many people prefer manual option. However, in some situations it is necessary to secure the saw. In this case, you can make a table for a circular saw with your own hands, having the opportunity to secure the tool if necessary.

Preparation of tools and materials

Having decided to make a table for a hand-held circular saw yourself, you need to make sure that you have all the materials necessary for the work:

laminated plywood (9 or 11 mm), size 800 mm by 800 mm;
16 mm laminated chipboard or other sheet material suitable for making the body, sheet size 400 by 784 mm - 4 pieces;
bars 40 by 40 mm (length depends on installation method);
self-tapping screws;
bolts.

For such table will do any manual circular saw. It must be remembered that when attached to a table, the cutting depth decreases by 10-20 mm. So saws with small blades are not suitable for such a table.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling a table for a circular saw

1. Manufacturing of the body. Sheet material for the case it is cut to size: 400 mm by 800 mm. The parts are fastened using self-tapping screws and bars. It is better to carry out the assembly by first drilling out the external parts of the box. The result is a rectangular box without a bottom or lid. Upper part the bars are subsequently used to secure the plywood sheet.

2. Preparing and securing the plywood top. Hole slot. First, a piece 800 mm by 80 mm is cut out of a sheet of plywood. Next, measurements are taken of the support shoe of the saw that will be mounted on the tabletop. On back side plywood performs marking. You will need 2 center axles. Without them, it is impossible to make accurate markings. Then marks are applied to the plywood corresponding to the dimensions of the support shoe. Then they take the same measurements as the circular saw: the diameter of the lower protective casing, its thickness, maximum distance from the edges of the support shoe. In accordance with the obtained dimensions, place marks and cut out a rectangular hole using a jigsaw.

3. Attaching the saw to the plywood table top. First, 4 holes are made in the shoe. Diameter - 10 mm. Next, install the tool so that the working part fits into the cut hole. When the saw is level, you need to mark the location of the holes. Marks are made in the central part. In order for the tool to stand securely, for fastening you will need plowshare bolts with a countersunk conical head (M8). To install them, you will have to take care of the high-quality recess of the cap; it can protrude by a maximum of 1 mm when not tightened.

Plywood is drilled with outside, the diameter of the resulting holes should be 8 mm, and then a countersink should be made for the head. When the holes are ready, the saw itself is installed on the cutting table for the circular saw, the bolts are tightened from the inside using nuts with plastic locks or spring washers.

4. Fastening the tabletop to the body. Start button. First, holes are made at a distance of 30 mm in the corners of the plywood tabletop. Then a hole is drilled in the central part of the bars. The parts are connected using an M8 18 mm steel fitting. Installed on the side regular button"Start - start." An electrical network is laid inside the case, and the button on the instrument itself is pressed.

5. Making a thrust beam. A simple table for a circular saw will become much more convenient if you equip it with a stop beam. Drawings contain everything required sizes. The beam can be made from plywood and secured using full extension furniture rails. The resulting beam should slide above the surface at an angle of 90° to the cutting plane with a slight gap.

6. Emphasis for longitudinal cuts. It is made from aluminum cornice. 150 mm from the edges, first drill holes for the bolts, and then draw 2 lines from the place where the bolts are attached to the center line. At the intersection and further towards the bolts, 12 mm holes are made at a distance of 30 mm. The bolts from below are tightened with nuts. And along the drawn lines they make slits in the tonic; their width can be seen in the photo.

Sawing machine from manual circular saw

Circular machine from hand saw– Universal sawhorses

Homemade sawing machine machine. video clip table for manual circular saw in makeshift conditions homemade small - excavator circular saw video CD

How to make a circular table stationary – Circular I drank with my own forces

Table for a circular saw yourself: video, drawings and photos

Machine circular saw from a hand-held circular saw in a makeshift setting. – MicPlay – Fastest HD Videos Portal

Circular machine from manual circular saw with your own

Read also

Table for circular saw

BOSCH Table circular saw GTS 10 XC Professional (0601B30400) buy cheap – cost, reviews, properties

How to make a good circular - How to make homemade table for a circular machine yourself

December 2016 – Page 7 – Verius

Circular saw in artisanal conditions

Homemade circular saw yourself (circular saw, sawing table)

Simple sawing machine in the global community!

At the very end of the video I give away a FlexCut knife! Of course I meet good ones sawing machine, I need it.

Converting an Interskol hand-held circular saw into a circular table saw

Guys, sincere thanks to those who will chew on compliance with TB during the filming process! However, we were very careful.

Adjustment of a circular saw in handicraft conditions - How to choose a circular saw. Expert advice

Circular table from a manual circular saw

Read also

Table for manual circulars

Circular cutting machine

Do-it-yourself trim for the carriage – Thai massage

This is interesting

Repair telescopic stand VAZ 2110 Bleeding non-separable shock absorbers VAZ. Do it yourself! PakVim Fastest HD Video Experience pak vim Repair of shock absorber struts at home, photos and […]
How to make speakers in a car. Vzmorie Adler PODIUM UNDER THE DYNAMICS. MicPlay. Fastest HD Videos Portal Acoustic podium with its […]
How to earn bitcoin (bitcoin). The best strategy! Watch online videos in My World. Free Bitcoin giveaway on spinandw. zebroid.tv faucets giving out free bitcoins THE MOST Awesome […]
Grow hair at home reviews. Sviyash-edu.ru How to grow hair on your own for guys. How to do ombre with your own hands Full House Hair Cut Long Hairstyles Updated […]
Milling table with lift for hand router drawings A good craftsman will simply be able to make a lift for a router on his own. Example of production milling table on their own, features and [...]
KIVsound. Making printed circuit boards on your own. Repair of printed circuit boards at home. Creation paving slabs Creation printed circuit board Houses. […]
How to change OS 7 to OS XP from disk. Stroy portal Resetting the user password in OS 7/8 IT Society of Ukraine How to remove the user name and email address from the OS login screen […]

Anyone who owns a personal home or suburban area wants a hand-held circular saw to appear in their set of power tools. It is even easier for its owners to do without the services of workshops in the process of manufacturing carpentry. But who already owns a manual circular saw dreams of having a stationary circular saw on the farm, because hand tool Despite all its advantages (low cost, lightness and mobility), it has a number of disadvantages. The main one is the lack of a stable surface with a large area; if it were busy, it would be possible to saw boards of very different thicknesses, widths and lengths. Naturally, some models of hand-held circular saws are equipped with extended soles and special fasteners that allow them to be attached to workbenches or tables and turn inverted circular saws into some kind of stationary devices.

A circular saw is always needed in a personal home; it can be used to process wood quickly and easily.

However, the small area of the DP sole and the small “overhang” of the guide bar do not give home craftsmen the ability to process large workpieces.

The motor for a circular saw must be quite massive; it is harmful to make it from a drill.

In fact, from each manual blast machine a circular machine is made, which in its operational characteristics is not much inferior to a stationary machine. The most common bed for this purpose is an old one. dining table, in the cover of which holes are drilled for attaching the sole of the circular saw and a slot is made for the saw blade. The tabletop itself, a sheet of textolite or metal will serve as the working surface of a stationary installation. The main thing is that the table can withstand the load of the work being processed. wooden blanks, therefore the thickness of even the metal sole does not have to be less than 4 mm. The fasteners must not protrude above work surface machine, and also for fastening hand-held machines to the tabletop, it is much more reliable to use screws with countersunk heads.

Converting an Interskol hand-held circular saw into a circular table saw

The table itself can be even more multifunctional if, in addition to the circular saw, you also attach an electric plane to it. Then, on such an improvised machine, it is possible not only to saw boards, but also to joint them, and if desired, both the DP and the plane can simply be dismantled and again converted into a successful portable tool.

Circular saw device.

The design of such a transforming machine is very ordinary. The lid is connected to one of its drawers with hinges. It rises freely, which simplifies access to the tool for maintenance or dismantling. Sockets for connecting saws and planes are installed on inner surface underframe. Of course, the system for turning on and off power tools requires some modification, and there are no particular difficulties here, because the start buttons for the saw and plane can be fixed when it is turned on (the most common solution is to wrap the button and handle with electrical tape), and the new switches for each tool can be connected to an external surface of the table drawer. The photo shows how convenient this design is.

Circular diagram:
1 – engine; 2.4 – board.

Read also

It is impossible to imagine real stationary circular saws without slats that control the accuracy with which the board will be cut in width. The guide (regulating, limiting) bar you will like is made of wooden beam, iron or duralumin corner. It is removable, but you will have to fasten it to the table surface with clamps each time at the required distance from the saw. Of course, construct an iron slide along which the bar will move parallel to the saw blade.

Some DP models are equipped with cut depth regulators, for home handyman adjusting the cutting depth will not be difficult, but when calculating a suitable value, the carpenter should take into account the thickness of the sole homemade machine. Already today, more massive saws are equipped with mechanisms for adjusting the cutting angle of the board, and, as follows, a slightly wider slot in the working surface is also useful for the saw blade.

Hand circular saw in table

As you can see, making a circular machine yourself, and also an adjustable one, is quite simple, alas, we should not forget that it will not be dangerous during operation. The bed, even though it was converted from kitchen table or made from profile pipes and iron sheets, it must be high-strength, stable and have a smooth and even working plane. All fasteners must be tightly screwed and protected from self-unscrewing by screws and locknuts, and the electrical fittings and cables through which the equipment will be connected to the network must correspond to its power.

It’s hard to imagine a carpentry workshop without a circular saw, since the most basic and common operation is longitudinal sawing of workpieces. How to make a homemade circular saw will be discussed in this article.

Introduction

The machine consists of three main structural elements:

base;
sawing table;
parallel stop.

The base and the sawing table itself are not very complicated structural elements. Their design is obvious and not so complicated. Therefore, in this article we will consider the most complex element– parallel stop.

So, the rip fence is a moving part of the machine, which is a guide for the workpiece and it is along it that the workpiece moves. Accordingly from rip fence The quality of the cut depends on the fact that if the stop is not parallel, then either the workpiece or the saw blade may become jammed.

In addition, the parallel stop of a circular saw must be of a rather rigid structure, since the master makes efforts by pressing the workpiece against the stop, and if the stop is displaced, this will lead to non-parallelism with the consequences indicated above.

There are various designs parallel stops depending on the methods of its attachment to circular table. Here is a table with the characteristics of these options.

Rip fence design	Advantages and disadvantages
Two-point mounting (front and rear)	Advantages:· Quite rigid design, · Allows you to place the stop anywhere on the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); Does not require the massiveness of the guide itself Flaw:· To fasten it, the master needs to clamp one end in front of the machine, and also go around the machine and secure the opposite end of the stop. This is very inconvenient when selecting the required position of the stop and with frequent readjustment it is a significant drawback.
Single point mounting (front)	Advantages:· Less rigid design than when attaching the stop at two points, · Allows you to place the stop anywhere on the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); · To change the position of the stop, it is enough to fix it on one side of the machine, where the master is located during the sawing process. Flaw:· The design of the stop must be massive to ensure the necessary rigidity of the structure.
Fastening in the groove of a circular table	Advantages:· Fast changeover. Flaw:· Complexity of the design, · Weakening of the design of the circular table, · Fixed position from the line of the saw blade, · Quite a complex design for self-made, especially made of wood (made only of metal).

In this article we will examine the option of creating a parallel stop design for a circular saw with one attachment point.

Preparing for work

Before you start work, you need to decide necessary set tools and materials that will be needed during the work process.

The following tools will be used for work:

Circular saw or you can use.
Screwdriver.
Grinder (Angle grinder).
Hand tools: hammer, pencil, square.

During the work you will also need the following materials:

Plywood.
Solid pine.
Steel tube with an internal diameter of 6-10 mm.
Steel rod with an outer diameter of 6-10 mm.
Two washers with an increased area and an internal diameter of 6-10 mm.
Self-tapping screws.
Wood glue.

Design of a circular saw stop

The entire structure consists of two main parts - longitudinal and transverse (meaning relative to the plane of the saw blade). Each of these parts is rigidly connected to the other and is complex design, which includes a set of parts.

The pressing force is large enough to ensure the strength of the structure and securely fix the entire rip fence.

From a different angle.

The general composition of all parts is as follows:

The base of the transverse part;

Longitudinal part

The base of the longitudinal part;

Clamp

Eccentric handle

Making a circular saw

Preparation of blanks

A couple of points to note:

planar longitudinal elements are made from, and not from solid pine, like other parts.

We drill a 22 mm hole in the end for the handle.

It is better to do this by drilling, but you can simply hammer it with a nail.

The circular saw used for work uses a homemade movable carriage from (or alternatively, you can make it “on a quick fix» false table), which you don’t really mind deforming or ruining. We hammer a nail into this carriage in the marked place and bite off the head.

As a result, we get an even cylindrical workpiece that needs to be processed with a belt or eccentric sander.

We make a handle - it is a cylinder with a diameter of 22 mm and a length of 120-200 mm. Then we glue it into the eccentric.

Transverse part of the guide

Let's start making the transverse part of the guide. It consists, as mentioned above, of the following details:

The base of the transverse part;
Upper transverse clamping bar (with an oblique end);
Lower transverse clamping bar (with an oblique end);
End (fixing) strip of the transverse part.

Upper transverse clamping bar

Both clamping bars - upper and lower - have one end that is not straight 90º, but inclined (“oblique”) with an angle of 26.5º (to be precise, 63.5º). We have already observed these angles when cutting the workpieces.

The upper transverse clamping bar serves to move along the base and further fix the guide by pressing against the lower transverse clamping bar. It is assembled from two blanks.

Both clamping bars are ready. It is necessary to check the smoothness of the ride and remove all defects that interfere with smooth sliding; in addition, you need to check the tightness of the inclined edges; There should be no gaps or cracks.

With a tight fit, the strength of the connection (fixation of the guide) will be maximum.

Assembling the entire transverse part

Longitudinal part of the guide

All longitudinal part consists of:

The base of the longitudinal part.

This element is made from the fact that the surface is laminated and smoother - this reduces friction (improves sliding), and is also denser and stronger - more durable.

At the stage of forming the blanks, we have already sawed them to size, all that remains is to refine the edges. This is done using edge tape.

The edging technology is simple (you can even glue it with an iron!) and understandable.

The base of the longitudinal part

We also additionally fix it with self-tapping screws. Do not forget to maintain a 90º angle between the longitudinal and vertical elements.

Assembly of transverse and longitudinal parts.

Right here VERY!!! It is important to maintain an angle of 90º, since the parallelism of the guide with the plane of the saw blade will depend on it.

Installation of the eccentric

Installing the guide

It's time to attach our entire structure to the circular saw. To do this, you need to attach the cross stop bar to the circular table. Fastening, as elsewhere, is carried out using glue and self-tapping screws.

... and we consider the work finished - the circular saw is ready with your own hands.

Video

Video on which this material was made.

Those people who often do carpentry work for themselves or to order, simply need to have a stationary circular saw in their carpentry workshop. Working on a stationary machine is very convenient and, again, the back position is straight, which is important during long and monotonous work.

Today in stores there is large selection machines and tools, but a couple are beyond the means of a simple carpenter and he has to get out of the situation using his natural ingenuity. For example, the master made stationary saw from a manual disk drive, how did he do it? Let's look further.

Materials
1. hand-held circular saw
2. plywood 11 mm
3. M-8 bolts with furniture head
4. screws
5. switch
6. wire
7. timber 40x40
8. furniture guides

Tools
1. jigsaw
2. hand-held circular saw
3. drill
4. screwdriver
5. hammer
6. screwdriver
7. pliers
8. ruler

The process of creating a stationary circular saw.
And as was said above, the author made his circular saw from a manual circular saw, and no changes were made to the design of the saw. Here a table is simply made, and the saw sole is attached to the underside of the tabletop, where a cut for the disk is first made, holes are first drilled and then sawn. The base is created from plywood and 40x40 timber.

Then a tabletop is cut out of plywood; the author recommends using laminated or varnished, because the surface is even and smooth. As agreed, the cut is made, and holes are drilled in the corners for subsequent fastening.

A circular saw is attached to the underside of the tabletop using M-8 bolts, mainly the bolt heads should be sunk into the plywood.

The switch is installed and connected, the start button on the saw is fixed in the pressed position, and the switch is connected to the outlet, so there is no need to disassemble the saw or connect anything to it.