The Attractiveness of Blackberry Cultivation- high and stable productivity. Rich chemical composition The fruits of the bush make them especially important for the human diet. This is a worthy alternative garden raspberries and the opportunity to diversify culinary preparations. At correct landing and care taking into account all biological features blackberries will bear fruit for at least 10 years.

When is the best time to plant garden blackberries - in summer, autumn or spring? Choice of dates

The potential for productivity and benefits of blackberries is much wider than that of its close relative, raspberries. However, gardeners are not eager to plant and grow this magnificent shrub on their property.

This is set apart by the fact that for a long time plant varieties bred from southern forms were cultivated. They found it difficult to take root in the planting region and led to massive disappointment among gardeners.

The situation changed after new relatively winter-hardy varieties , which are able to withstand temperatures down to -30 C.

Therefore, for cultivation in the middle zone or more northern regions (in Siberia and the Urals), it is important to purchase varieties of modern selection.

Despite this, in the northern regions, blackberry cultivation is somewhat limited. This is due to uneven fruiting, the final period of which often coincides with the first frost and some of the fruits do not have time to ripen.

In addition, insufficient lighting leads to loss of quality in ripened fruits.

Autumn planting of blackberries has more benefits and is most optimal in the middle and southern regions. After planting the shrub, a period with stable and cool temperatures will follow, high humidity will promote root development until the soil temperature drops to -4°C.

Blackberries emerge from a state of relative dormancy very early, and shrubs that have taken root in the fall will immediately begin to develop vegetative mass.

When planted in spring, the plant does not have time to take root. due to too rapid warming and the onset of sap flow, after which active growth of shoots begins.

A weak root system is not able to provide the necessary nutrition to the increasing vegetative mass. This greatly weakens the bush and affects overall development.

Spring planting is preferable in northern regions and if the blackberry variety is characterized by poor winter hardiness.

In autumn, the plant should be planted at least 20-30 days before the first frost, in spring before buds open, when the air temperature rises to +15°C.

For growing in personal plot planting material must be purchased from reputable nurseries. Annual seedlings with two stems, the thickness of which is at least 0.5 cm in diameter, have the best survival rate.

An important criterion is the formed bud on the roots. The optimal length of tap roots is at least 10 cm.

Preparing a place for planting a seedling: where is it better to plant, in the sun or in the shade?

For growing blackberries you need to choose a place well lit by the sun and protected from northern winds. In the shade, the young shoots of the plant will grow poorly, become elongated, the fruits become smaller and lose their taste.

A good option is to plant along the fence, where the bushes will be protected from the winds and the stems from breakage. In this case, you need to retreat 1 m from the fence so that the plant is not heavily shaded. It is better to place the bush on the south or southwest side of the site.

To plant blackberries, you need breathable and well-drained soil. Loams are ideal with a humus layer of at least 25 cm.

Occurrence groundwater Location on should be no higher than 1.5 meters. If these indicators are violated, the roots of the plant will be damp and cold, which significantly affects winter hardiness and yield indicators.

To plant thorny shrubs, the planting area must be prepared in advance. All weeds are removed, plant waste is destroyed, and preventive spraying is carried out against pathogens and pests.

For growing blackberries Salty, rocky, sandy and marshy areas are not suitable.

Severely depleted soils need to be replenished with essential macroelements. To do this, the area is dug up to a depth of 30-35 cm, and organic and mineral fertilizers are applied.

How to plant in open ground

Planting pits and substrate are prepared in 15-20 days before planting seedlings in open ground.

The blackberry root system is more powerful and penetrates deeper than others berry crops. Therefore, the pits need to be made more voluminous. The best option - adhere to the parameters 40x40x40 cm.

Upright varieties of shrubs are placed at a distance of 1 m, creeping plants at 1.5 m. 2 m are left between rows.

Organic matter and minerals must be added to each hole:

• compost or humus 5 kg;
• superphosphate 120 g;
• potassium sulfate 40 g.

Nutrient ingredients are mixed fertile soil and fill the hole 2/3 of the volume with the resulting substrate.

The shrub is planted vertically with root collar depth 1.5-2 cm. In light sandy loam soils, deepen up to 3 cm.

Blackberry roots are placed in a hole, straightened and covered with substrate. In this case, the hole is not completely filled, leaving a distance of 1-2 cm to the soil level.

Thus, there will be a recess under each bush, which will contribute to the rational hydration of blackberries.

Then the surface of the substrate needs to be compacted and water the seedling with 5-6 liters of water. After spring planting The blackberry plant must be provided with regular watering for 40-50 days. After compacting the soil, the tree trunk circle is mulched with sawdust, peat or straw.

Mulching the soil surface under the bushes with peat or rotted manure with a layer of 15 cm will protect against weeds and will prevent the appearance of dense crusts. Additionally, it is a source of balanced supply of nutrients to blackberry roots.

Planting blackberries:

How you can and should care for a bush in the garden - advice from agricultural technicians

Blackberries are more drought-resistant and easy to care for than raspberries. The only drawback of culture- relatively low winter hardiness and frost resistance. Therefore, you need to care for the plant taking into account its biological characteristics.

At proper care and subject to preparation for winter, blackberries will grow and delight you with a high yield, according to the indicators of which among berry crops it is second only to grapes.

The golden rule of care is pruning

Throughout the life of the blackberry you need to control the density of the bush and make formative prunings.

These activities include:

1. Removing inflorescences in the first year of growth. This is done to stimulate the development of the root system.
2. In the second year after planting, you need to shorten the stems, leaving a height of 1.5-1.8 m. The procedure is carried out in the spring before the buds open. Sections should be made above the kidney.
3. After each winter you need to cut off frozen areas stems to a living bud.
4. In summer, at the beginning of June, the bushes are thinned out. At the same time, young shoots are removed, leaving an average of 6-8 strong stems for creeping varieties and 4-5 for erect ones. The tops of young shoots are cut off by 5-8 cm.

Bush blackberry is a shrub with a biennial fruiting cycle.. During the first year, the stems of the plant develop, become woody and form fruit buds. The next year they bear fruit and only in rare cases can they form new fruit buds.

Agricultural technicians advise removing biennial shoots that have spawned, thereby stimulating the development of new growths and thinning out the blackberry crown, which will only make it look better.

Prickly bush garter

For creeping types of shrubs you will need a trellis with 3-4 rows of wire with a distance between them of 50 cm.

In the first year of development, 2-3 shoots are fan-shapedly tied to the lower wires. Annual shoots are directed to the center of the bush, tied to the topmost wire.

Before the onset of cold weather, young shoots are removed from their support and sheltered for the winter.

Stems of erect blackberry varieties tied to a trellis with a slight slope to one side. When new shoots grow during the growing season, they also need to be tied up. This time the slope is made in the opposite direction from the fruiting branches.

A peculiarity of growing blackberries is the need to shade the bush while the fruits are ripening. Exposure to direct sunlight negatively affects the commercial quality of the fruit. To do this, shading nets are stretched along the rows of bushes.

Fertilizer and fertilizing are the key to a good harvest

Blackberries need fertilizing every spring nitrogen fertilizers, which will stimulate the growth of annual shoots - this is another Golden Rule. To do this, apply 50 g of ammonium nitrate under each bush, covering it to a depth of 10-15 cm.

Every 3-4 years, shrubs in the garden need to be fed and other macroelements. This procedure is carried out after harvesting. Per 1 m2 the following is added to the soil under the plant:

• compost or humus 10 kg;
• superphosphate 100 g;
• potassium sulfate 30 g.

It should be remembered that nitrogen fertilizers are applied only in spring. This mineral is also found in large quantities in pig manure and chicken droppings.

Measures for fertilizing blackberries can be combined by spraying with 1% Bordeaux mixture, which will suppress the development of microorganisms. For additional disease prevention, the area under the bushes should be cleared of fallen leaves.

When to water, do you need to loosen?

Deep-lying, compared to other berry bushes, The blackberry root system makes the plant drought-resistant. But this does not mean that the plant should be left without irrigation and not watered.

Watering is especially necessary during the fruit-filling period. and when hot weather sets in. At this time, the wide leaf plates of the plant evaporate a large amount of moisture.

The optimal volume of water for an adult bush during fruit filling is 15-20 liters per week. At other times, you need to focus on the condition of the substrate and not let it dry out too much.

Several times during the growing season it is necessary to loosen the soil under the bushes to a depth of 10 cm, while simultaneously removing weeds.

It is especially important to carry out the procedure in the fall, at the end of August, in September. The looser the soil, the less the soil in the root layers will freeze.

Shelter for winter time

Before winter season the bush will need shelter. For this plant stems bend to the ground. It is important to do this until the air temperature drops to -1°C. Otherwise, they will lose elasticity and break.

To do this, the branches are tied into bundles, bent to the ground and secured with hooks. Upright blackberry varieties are quite difficult to bend down without breaking the stems.

Many gardeners have found a way out of the situation and at the end of the growing season, weights are tied to the tops of the stems, under the weight of which they gradually bend to the ground.

Regardless of the frost resistance characteristics, all varieties of blackberries need shelter for the winter. To do this you can use:

• hay or vegetable tops;
• roofing felt;
• sawdust;
• peat or humus.

Blackberry shelter for the winter:

The most dangerous time for blackberries is the snowless beginning of winter.. Therefore, it is necessary to cover the plant before the onset of the first cold weather, and in winter, pull snow towards it. Blackberry stems are not prone to overheating, so the plant can also be covered with polyethylene.

Foliage fruit trees not suitable as a covering material. It often hides pathogenic microorganisms, which in the spring can begin to actively develop on the bush.

Spruce branches are well suited for shelter, which will additionally protect against rodents.

Blackberry fruiting unevenly and can cover a whole month. The fruits of the bush are characterized by good transportability and a long shelf life at low temperatures.

Leaves and roots of the plant have bactericidal, sedative properties and will take their rightful place in the home collection of herbal remedies.

Blackberries, or ozhina in Ukrainian, are distributed throughout Ukraine in forests, shelterbelts, swamps, wastelands, gardens and dachas.
Blackberry bushes are an excellent material for landscape design. Upright shoots can be used to create beautiful hedges. They will not only be absolutely impenetrable, but also very picturesque - both during flowering and during fruiting - with multi-colored glossy berries.

Reproduction
Straight-growing varieties of blackberries are propagated, like raspberries, by root suckers and root cuttings. Blackberries with creeping shoots and similar raspberry-blackberry hybrids do not produce root shoots. These varieties are propagated by layering - the tips of the shoots. The tops of growing shoots bent to the ground are placed in a shallow (3-5 cm) oblong hole; Make one or two neat cuts on the shoot with a knife (so that the roots grow faster) and sprinkle with earth. The sprinkled shoot takes root easily and quickly and produces new shoots from the apical buds. Separate the rooted tops and plant them on permanent place better in spring.

Propagation of all forms of blackberries and their hybrids by green cuttings in greenhouses and greenhouses with controlled air humidity is good. Cuttings are taken in the fall from the current year's shoots. The cuttings should have at least 2-3 buds, length - 10-12 cm.

A good variety of blackberries is the Yang variety, characterized by early ripeness of the fruit, high yield, and large berries. The fruits are dark cherry, shiny, sweet, but without aroma.

Variety Boysen with larger fruits the size of small ones egg, black in color, sweet and aromatic. The bushes are more powerful.

Varieties El Dorado, Snyder differ in cold resistance, varieties Thornfree, Smusstem, Austin, Thornless - thornless, Nessberry -drought resistance.

Very valuable positive properties has a variety Agawam , related to erect blackberries, and varieties Abundant And Texas , related to blackberries with creeping shoots.

New, very productive varieties have been developed, without thorns, characterized by vigorous growth, winter hardiness, resistance to diseases and pests, and suitable for mechanized harvesting.

We choose a site.
When determining a place for planting, take into account the poor winter hardiness of most varieties. The area should be well lit, warmed up and protected from cold winds. Blackberries are less demanding on soil than raspberries, but produce maximum yield on fertilized, well-drained loams. Does not tolerate damp, waterlogged soils, where the formation of shoots is delayed until late autumn, due to which the winter hardiness of the plant sharply decreases. The soil reaction should be from slightly acidic to neutral. Blackberries, like raspberries, cannot be planted on carbonate (limestone) soils, since the plant develops chlorosis due to a lack of iron and magnesium.

Landing
Blackberries bear fruit quickly, in the second year, and regularly. It is unpretentious and grows on a variety of soils. It only dislikes carbonate soils (they are affected by chlorosis) and salinity. Responsive to feeding. It produces the highest yields on fertilized, well-drained loams. Does not tolerate waterlogging.

Since blackberries are not frost-resistant enough, you should choose places for them that are protected from cold winds and well warmed by the sun.

It is wiser to plant blackberries in the spring. Prepared for each bush landing hole dimensions 40 x 40 x 40 cm. Before planting, add 5-6 kg (half a bucket) of well-rotted manure, 100-150 g of superphosphate, 40-50 g of potassium fertilizers and mix thoroughly with the soil. It is better to cover the roots with natural soil (to avoid burns), and place the enriched soil in the hole on top.

Upright blackberries require a trellis. Otherwise, severe shortening of the stems is possible. Because of this, the overall yield of berries decreases, although their mass increases and quality improves.

In the south, it is better to install a trellis from a 2.4 m high reinforced concrete grape stake, which is buried into the ground 60-80 cm with a distance in a row of 6 m, and a support from the same stake is placed to the outermost anchor post at an angle of 30-40? C. The first wire is pulled at a height of 80cm, the next two - 30-40cm apart. Young shoots are periodically tied in the direction in which they grow, creating a fan formation. With green pruning, 6-8, but no more than ten shoots per linear meter are left. The length is within 1.4-1.8 m, the lashes are tied to a trellis. The shorter the pruning, the larger the years, however, if pruned too short there may be growth of vegetative shoots.

Straight-growing blackberry seedlings are placed at a distance of 0.8-1 m from each other; the distance between rows is 1.8-2 m. When planting sundew and raspberry-blackberry hybrids, you need to take into account the size of an adult bush. Trellis for blackberries must be at least 2 m high.

A fan-shaped method of forming a bush is possible, in which fruiting and growing shoots are placed separately. When forming in a fan, the distance between plants should be at least 2.5-3.5 m.

Placing stems on a support

Supports in the form of a trellis 1.8 m high with stretched wire in 4 rows at a height of 0.9; 1.2; 1.5; 1.8 m.

FIRST YEAR

In the summer, as young shoots appear, tie them to support wires. Wrap them around the three bottom wires. In autumn, the shoots are removed from the supports, laid on the ground and covered.

After fruiting, cut all fruiting branches to the ground. In autumn, the shoots are removed from the supports, laid on the ground and covered.

SECOND YEAR

Direct new shoots up through the center of the bush and further along the top wire. Berries ripen on the side branches of last year's stems

At the same time, untie the current year's growth and braid it around the three bottom wires. In spring, remove the tops of young shoots with weak buds.

Umove

The soil around the plants is kept loose and free from weeds. Two-year-old fruit-bearing shoots are cut out. Creeping and semi-cresting annual shoots are bent to the ground for the winter and covered with potato tops or vegetable crops, film and other materials, and in the spring they are lifted and placed on a trellis. For erect blackberry shoots, installing a trellis and bending down the bushes for the winter is not carried out, since rigid shoots almost do not lie down. Due attention should be paid to watering blackberry plantings. The next year after planting, in the spring, the plants are watered abundantly (up to 5 buckets per bush). During the growing season, watering is required depending on the condition of the soil, especially during the period of filling and ripening of berries. The section devoted to pests and diseases of raspberries describes a number of common pests and diseases of raspberries and blackberries. In addition, blackberries are attacked by the blackberry gall mite, which damages the fruit. The pest is very small, measuring 0.2 mm. Overwinters on a bush in early spring moves to flowers, then to fruits. It is not difficult to fight it: after picking the berries, you need to cut out and destroy the fruit-bearing shoots. After pruning, spray the bushes 3 times with infusions of garlic or pyrethrum with the addition of laundry soap. In the spring of next year, the bushes are treated with the same solutions in order to prevent a new tick invasion.

Pruning blackberries and placing fruiting and growing stems separately:

1. Immediately after harvesting, fruit-bearing branches are completely cut off
2. First year.
3. Second year. Fruiting shoots are directed in one direction, and new shoots in the other.

4. Fan forming method. Fruiting shoots are fanned out one at a time to the right and left, and new ones are placed in the center.
5. Forming with ropes. Fruiting shoots are directed along the wire, and new ones are left in the center.
6. Formation by waves. Fruiting shoots are directed in waves along the lower rows, and young ones - along the upper ones.

In the first summer after planting, young shoots are formed. Attach them securely to the bottom wires using a braiding method. In the second summer, these shoots will produce flowers and berries. At the same time, new shoots will appear at the base of the plant. They should be formed according to the chosen method. When fruiting is complete, unravel the old branches and trim them back to the ground. With a fan system and when weaving, new branches should be sent to replace the old ones. Pruning in the third and subsequent years consists of removing branches that have already bear fruit and replacing them with new ones. If there are not many replacement shoots, you can save the best of the old ones, but the quality of the berries will deteriorate. Every year in early spring, trim the frost-damaged tops onto a healthy bud.

Shelter for the winter
For the winter, non-winter-hardy blackberry bushes are laid on the ground. In order not to damage the plants, you can lay them together with the trellis - carefully pull out the supports and lower the entire planting flat. The bases of the bushes are covered with peat and leaves from above, and later covered with snow.

In spring, the bushes must be opened before the buds begin to swell and formative pruning must be done. That is, shorten the overgrown shoots in the current year’s growth (cut off from a third to half the length of the shoot), pinch the shoots that have gone in an undesirable direction for you.

Young shoots are tied up in the summer as they grow. Old fruiting stems that will no longer produce berries are cut out close to the ground and removed from the site.

Useful properties of blackberries

The amazing qualities of blackberries are reflected in ancient legends. The burning bush, in the form of which the angel of the Lord appeared before Moses, is considered to be a blackberry bush “... the bush burns with fire and is not consumed.” The blackberry is a symbol of the purity of the Virgin Mary, who gave birth to the "flame" divine love without being burned with lust."

The yield of blackberries and their hybrids is 3-4 times higher than that of raspberries. And in terms of the content of biologically active substances, blackberries also surpass the car. Its berries contain more organic acids, P-active substances, wide range microelements. Blackberries are denser, easily separated from the tea leaves, transport well, and can be stored in the refrigerator for a long time.

Blackberry fruits have astringent, hemostatic, anti-inflammatory, cleansing and pathogenic effects. The fruits and juice quench thirst and have an antipyretic effect. The leaves exhibit antiseptic properties and improve intestinal motility. The leaves exhibit antiseptic properties, improve intestinal motility, eliminate heartburn, and are used for lotions for eczema and other skin inflammations, for rinsing the mouth and throat for sore throats and stomatitis.

Blackberries harmoniously combine sugars and acids. They are consumed fresh, when dried they are added to dried fruits for compote - broth, jams, jellies, jams, marmalade, marshmallows, jellies, compotes, syrups, extracts, drinks and wines are prepared from them. They freeze well and are also used as food coloring.

Most modern blackberry varieties do not have thorns. In addition, the yield of varietal blackberries is much higher; large, juicy berries with small seeds have a set of more valuable dietary and medicinal qualities.

Chemical composition, use.

Ripe, juicy, pleasant-tasting blackberries are used as a dessert dietary dish. Fruits contain dry matter up to 10.5%, sugars 3-8 (fructose, glucose, sucrose), organic acids 0.4-1.6, fiber up to 4, minerals 0.4-0.6, nitrogen 0. 4-0.95%. Vitamin C 5-48 mg%, P-active substances 1200-1500, carotene 0.5-0.8, B1 0.03-3.0, B; 0.03-3.8, K - up to 0.4 mg%. Quite a lot of pectin, tannin, aromatic and coloring substances, as well as macro- and microelements, especially copper salts (up to 200 mg%), manganese, iron. The seeds contain 9-12% fatty oil.

Fruits are used for food in fresh and processed forms: dried, made into juice, jam, soft drinks, marmalade, pastille, jam, compotes, jelly, tinctures and confectionery. Thanks to good combination Sugars and acids do not bother the berry. Purple food coloring is made from dried berries. Dried flowers and leaves are used.

Blackberries have long been used for preventive and medicinal purposes. The berries are used as a cold remedy. They are included in children's and dietary dishes. Overripe berries have a laxative property, while unripe ones have a strengthening property. Berries, infusion and tea made from them are a general strengthening and sedative for menopausal neuroses.

Blackberry fruits, decoctions and infusions of dried berries quench the thirst of patients, have antipyretic properties, and are used in the treatment of acute respiratory diseases and pneumonia. Decoctions and infusions of dry berries are considered one of the most active diaphoretics and diuretics in folk medicine. A decoction of the leaves is used for hemoptysis, gastric hemorrhages, diarrhea and dysentery; for lotions in the treatment of skin (for lichen, eczema, ulcers or purulent wounds). An infusion of leaves is taken for diseases of the upper respiratory tract, and also as an expectorant and sedative for increased excitability. Powders from dried blackberry leaves are used to treat wounds, and an extract with a diuretic effect is obtained from the root.

The juice of the fruit dyes fabrics and threads purple and red-violet. Shoots and leaves are suitable for tanning leather; young leaves replace tea. A good honey plant that produces fragrant and transparent honey for a long time. In landscaping it is used to stabilize the slopes of ravines and screes.

Varieties

Agave m bred more than 130 years ago in the USA. Refers to the upright blackberry. The bushes are powerful, tall, and the shoots are thick. The berries are large, short-conical, black, dense, much sweeter than raspberries, and ripen in August. Abundant And Texas bred by I.V. Michurin. They belong to the creeping blackberry. The bush is strong, the shoots are long and thin. Berries Abundant large, elongated, black, sweet and sour, ripen in August; Texas - when fully ripe, dark crimson, almost black, with a slight waxy coating, aromatic, excellent taste with a pleasant sourness. Thornfree- thornless variety, bred in the USA. The berries are short-conical, black, shiny, sour in taste, ripen in August. All of the listed varieties, unfortunately, are not winter-hardy and require shelter for the winter.

Harvesting

The berries ripen at different times. They, like raspberries, are harvested in several stages. Ripe berries are easily separated from the calyx along with the fruit. Unlike raspberries, blackberries hardly crumple when harvested, are well transportable and can be stored longer at zero temperatures.

From the berries you can make juice, preserves, jam, compotes, jellies, marmalade, marshmallows, jelly, all kinds of fillings and drinks. The leaves make an excellent tea. In folk medicine, it is believed that it has a multifaceted effect - wound healing, anti-inflammatory, diaphoretic, diuretic, astringent and hemostatic. Long-term use improves metabolism and blood composition. Fresh fruits and blackberry juice are a good multivitamin and general tonic that quenches thirst well at high temperatures. They improve performance gastrointestinal tract, enhance digestion and appetite. Ripe berries slightly relax the stomach, unripe ones have an astringent property. Blackberries are used for inflammation of the kidneys and bladder.

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Blackberry classification

​Useful tips​

1. ​5.Lots of barren flowers​
2. ​2. Freezing of the kidneys
3. Firstly, in order for the blackberry to bear fruit, its branches are buried in soil. You also need to know what variety you bought; late varieties do not ripen here.​

Growing on a trellis

The lifespan of a group of blackberry bushes depends on soil and climatic conditions, methods of its cultivation and the thoroughness of pest and disease control measures. So, all other things being equal, blackberry bushes are more durable in the temperate climate zone.​

​Blackberry plants are fed only in the third year after planting; for the first two years it is provided with the fertilizers that were added to the planting hole. Subsequently, after a year or two in the fall, 4-6 kg of rotted manure (compost) are added, and in the spring, nitrogen fertilizers (30 g per bucket of water) or mullein solution (diluted 10: 1), and in the summer - complex fertilizers (30–50 g per bucket of water). 1 plant).​

Lighting

To obtain a bountiful harvest of berries, the plant needs feeding. An excellent result can be obtained by mulching the soil in early spring with a layer of 5 centimeters. For mulch, use rotted manure or compost. You can also add urea or ammonium nitrate.​

Watering

Cuttings for propagation are taken 5-7 centimeters long and planted in spring or autumn in fertilized soil, deepened by two-thirds. If you decide to root the shoot, then sprinkle it with soil at the end of summer. In the spring, transplant to a permanent place.​

In summer, pinch off the tops and remove excess young shoots. In autumn, fruit-bearing shoots are pruned.

Trimming

​This will save space, the plant will receive enough sun and air, the berries will be able to ripen completely and can be easily picked (blackberries do not bear fruit all at once, but over the course of a month and a half), and young shoots will be able to spread unhindered along the ground. They are often attached to a fan-shaped trellis. If desired, you can tie the bush to a pole or pipe.​

​Everyone knows this beautiful wild berry, distinguished by its original taste and health benefits. And also because it is not very pleasant and convenient to collect, since blackberry thickets are usually difficult to pass through and very prickly. But modern breeding science doesn’t care. And now we can pamper ourselves with garden blackberries, which are distinguished by the absence of thorns on the shoots, and its berries are large and sweet.​

To ensure that strawberries bear fruit the next year after planting, plant them in early August. Then she will have time to lay flower buds before autumn.​

Wintering

​This phenomenon occurs on old strawberries, as well as on bad varieties. Therefore, buy planting material from trusted sellers. Choose the variety that suits your climate zone, otherwise the strawberries will not bear fruit.​

It happens that 2-3 year old strawberries do not bear fruit. This may happen due to poor care last year, when the buds were being laid. Therefore, be sure to feed the plantings from August to September. This is exactly the period when strawberries are preparing for the new season and forming buds. Another 2-3 year old garden strawberries may not bear fruit if there was a harsh winter and some or all of the buds froze. To prevent this from happening again, cover the beds with pine needles, straw or other material, and also cover them with snow.​

​The strawberries are blooming, but the long-awaited berries are still missing. What could have happened?​

Reproduction

​The strip method of growing blackberries almost doubles its productive life compared to the bush method. This big difference is explained by the following. When blackberries are grown in the form of individual bushes, the latter are formed mainly due to replacement shoots developing from the buds of the upper part of the rhizome (at the base of the fruiting shoots), and only individual shoots that are part of the bush develop from the buds located on the younger parts of the root system .​

• When growing upright blackberries, young replacement shoots are pinched. Pruning fruit-bearing blackberries has its own peculiarities: the growing shoot is cut off when it reaches 60–90 cm (removing the top 5 cm long), and in the south the side branches that appear after this are also shortened so that they branch well.
• But keep in mind that blackberries are not fertilized for 2-3 years after planting.

Landing

It is advisable to plant blackberries in a place that is lighted and protected from the winds. It is better to plant in the spring to prevent freezing.​

​Many gardeners are frightened by the low frost resistance of this garden culture, but if you know how to care for blackberries in autumn-winter period, then she will delight you with a bountiful harvest.​

The plant loves illuminated areas. It also feels good in partial shade, but in this case the ripening period of the berries is extended by 5-7 days, they become smaller and lose their taste.​

​All varieties of blackberries (over 300) are divided into 3 groups:​
​We create strawberry plantation for a rich harvest

Top dressing

​6.Pests​

​3.Strawberries have black flowers​

Pests and diseases

​There are several reasons why strawberries do not bear fruit.​

Harvesting

The passage of nutrients (absorbed from the soil solution) through the rhizome is complicated by the presence of numerous stumps - from biennial shoots that die annually. This, in turn, leads to the fact that over the years the nutritional regime of replacement shoots deteriorates, their length and productivity decrease. The bush, which consists mainly of replacement shoots, becomes very old by the age of 10–12 years and the area loses its fruitfulness.

In the spring, the lateral branches of the blackberry bush are shortened to 20-40 cm (leaving 8-12 buds on each branch) - depending on the variety, the length of the growing season, and the ripening period of the berries. Fruiting stems are tied to the upper trellis wire, and newly growing stems are tied to the lower one. An erect blackberry bush is often formed in a fan fashion, when the fruiting branches are placed and secured on the opposite side of the growing young ones; in this case, the distance between seedlings when planting should be about 3 meters.​

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How to care for blackberries

Blackberries are resistant to pests and diseases. Sometimes it can be attacked by raspberry beetles. To prevent this from happening, try to pick ripe berries on time. With a lack of iron and magnesium, chlorosis develops.

Feeding

The plant prefers slightly acidic or neutral soil. Limestone soil should not be used for planting.​

Shaping and trimming

​It should be taken into account that dewberry does not tolerate winter well, while bramble can withstand twenty-degree frosts. But it’s still better to cover any blackberries for the winter.

Blackberries are drought-resistant because their roots are located at a considerable depth.

Bramble - straight-growing (the most common);

Autumn care after fruiting

​Growing sweet fragrant strawberries​

​Pests, such as the strawberry weevil, can reduce the yield. It lays its eggs directly into the bud. Fight strawberry pests, as well as others garden plants, needed from early spring. To do this, use insecticides.​

​In the spring there are return frosts, and the strawberries have already begun to produce shoots with buds. And if they freeze, then almost every blossoming bud has a black center. Such a flower will not produce berries. Therefore, cover the strawberries in the spring during freezing with a covering material, for example, acrylic.​

Strip method of growing blackberries

​Instructions​

​The advantage of the blackberry strip culture is that in this case the planting is created with the inclusion of a significant number of the strongest and most well-placed (i.e. at a distance of 10-15 cm from one another) root shoots that arise within the strip on the younger part root system. In addition, this method allows you to use the most powerfully developed replacement shoots and root suckers to form a bush and, due to more complete use of the biological characteristics of the plant, have fruitful blackberry plantations up to 20 years of age. This period of existence of a normally fruit-bearing plantation is sharply reduced by the spread of numerous pests and diseases of the bushes, especially viral ones.​

Most often, an erect blackberry bush has 4-5 fruit-bearing branches. In May - June, pruning is carried out, leaving 6-8 shoots up to half a meter high near the main bush, and cutting off all weak ones just below the soil surface.

The berries ripen at the end of summer. They are collected in several stages.

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Why don't blackberries bear fruit?

Marina Nikolaeva

First, dig holes to a depth of 45-50 centimeters. Fertilizers mixed with soil are placed at the bottom: rotted manure or compost (5-6 kilograms), potash fertilizers (45-50 grams) and superphosphate (130-150 grams). Then the blackberry bush is planted so that the root collar is 2-3 centimeters below the soil level. Plants are watered, mulched and trimmed, leaving 20-30 centimeters.​

PoFIGISTK@

​Most varieties bend to the ground, and if you have a straight-growing blackberry, then they bend it gradually during the growth process, as if accustoming it. For particularly sensitive varieties, covering is used. Most often with plastic wrap, but you can use leaves or spruce branches. It is advisable to cover it with snow on top. If the plant is not prepared for winter, the adult bush will not die, but the above-ground part may freeze, which will undoubtedly affect fruiting.​

Why don't strawberries bear fruit?

During flowering and ripening of berries, it requires watering. But do not overdo it: overly moist soil can cause the death of the bush.​

​semi-creeping (rare);​

​And here we are indulging in strawberries​ ​Please note​​4.Poor pollination​ ​1.Old strawberries​

​Laying plantations with healthy planting material, high level agricultural techniques in combination with the strip crop method will contribute to obtaining high and sustainable yields.​

​In the fall, remove old blackberry stems (without leaving “stumps”). It is recommended to remove them immediately after harvesting, since new shoots better conditions lighting more successfully complete development and preparation for winter. At the same time as the fruit-bearing stems, all weak, broken, heavily diseased and pest-damaged young shoots are removed, leaving well-developed and healthy ones.

​If you take care of blackberries and care for them properly, they will certainly delight you with a bountiful, tasty harvest.​

Plants are planted in rows. Erect bushes are placed at a distance of 0.9-1 meter, row spacing is up to 2 meters. Between creeping plants leave 2.5 meters of distance.​

The plant propagates by seeds, green and root cuttings, rooted shoots and by dividing the bush.

In the spring, before the buds swell, it is necessary to do formative pruning: remove frozen, dried, diseased, underdeveloped shoots and shorten too long ones.

​dewberry - creeping along the ground.​

​for you Galimax​

​Strawberries and garden strawberries are the same thing, it’s just more common to call these berries strawberries.​

​In bad rainy weather, strawberries bloom, but the berries do not set or set poorly, because bees and bumblebees do not fly. There are no tips here, because everything depends on the vagaries of the weather.​

​The most big harvest Strawberries give up until they are five years old, and then they need to be replaced with new, young plants. Therefore, if your garden bed is many years old, do not expect many strawberries from it. Without sparing, dig up old bushes and plant rosettes from the most productive varieties. It is better not to take planting material from your old strawberries, but to buy seedlings or grow them yourself from seeds. Fortunately, store shelves are full of seeds of fruitful and promising varieties of garden strawberries.​

​I sympathize...me too. The berries have never ripened before frost.

​Creeping and semi-cresting young annual shoots are covered for the winter, bending them to the ground and covered with film and other materials, and in the spring they are lifted and placed on a trellis. For erect blackberry shoots, installing a trellis and bending down the bushes for the winter is not carried out, since rigid shoots almost do not lie down. In the fall, water-recharging irrigation should be carried out.

​The next year after planting, in the spring, the plants are watered abundantly (up to 5 buckets per bush). The soil around the plants is kept loose and free from weeds. The loosening is shallow. In dry summers, water once a week during the growth of shoots and ovaries, otherwise you may lose the harvest.​

​In one place, blackberries can bear fruit for 12-15 years.​

Blackberries are a unique plant rich in nutrients and medicinal substances. However, not only the fruit is useful, but also the leaves and roots, from which teas, decoctions and infusions are brewed. Blackberry juice is also beneficial, having strengthening and soothing properties. Thanks to this, many people have a desire to grow berries in their own garden.

You should still figure out what is the reason that blackberries grow poorly.

Blackberries thrive in northern temperate climates. But people who grow berries often have questions about their fruitfulness. And its lovers have to hope every year that nature will be favorable. After all, its taste is unique and not similar to other berries and fruits.

At the moment, there are about 300 varieties, but not all of them are successful in terms of fertility. Depending on the growth of the stems, two types are distinguished: erect and creeping branches. There are also non-thorny blackberries and prickly ones.

As a rule, upright varieties are characterized by a large yield and do not grow as slowly. There are fruit-bearing varieties that have a number of advantages:

1. Agavam - up to 10 kg of fruits from one bush. Aug. Sept.
2. Doyle - juicy and large berries. July – September.
3. Apache - 7-8 kg per bush. June August.
4. Black Satin – large berries; 14-17 kg. June August.
5. Karaka Black – large; 8-10 kg. June August.
6. Ruben – purchased; 14-15 kg. Until the first frost.
7. Thornfree – 12 kg. August.
8. Loch Tay – large fruits; powerful shoots; July.
9. Arapaho is the best in terms of aroma and taste. July.
10. Polar - 7 kg. July – September.

Having chosen these varieties of blackberries with proper care, the question that the berries will not bloom or bear fruit will not concern you.

Why don't blackberries grow and bloom?

Fully creeping varieties of blackberries are known for poor yields, but they have an advantage in the size of the berries: they grow juicy and large.

Many varieties are developed by crossing blackberries and raspberries. They have excellent taste, but the lack of propagation of such varieties is manifested in yield.

Failure to comply with agricultural technology

The survival rate of the berries is guaranteed only if certain conditions are met.

Violation of blackberry cultivation techniques affects fruiting. Berries need proper care. Do not forget that during the cold season you need shelter for blackberries. If ignored, the shoots may freeze, which will affect fruitfulness in next year: They may either not bloom for a long time or not produce a harvest at all. The same applies to flower buds, which are absolutely not prone to low temperatures.

Top most frost-resistant varieties:

1. Agawam -30˚
2. Apache -20˚
3. Ruben: tolerates cold well, you don’t need to cover it for the winter.
4. Arapaho -25˚, winters without shelter.
5. Osage -13˚

Some gardeners make a mistake when pruning vines. There is a certain period for performing this important procedure. You should not do this in the spring: there is a possibility of pruning new shoots, that is, the fruitful vine. Autumn is the perfect time of year. During this period, old vines from which the harvest has already been harvested and which will not be able to bear fruit in the future are pruned.

The exception is the Ruben variety, which was previously mentioned. It bears fruit until the first frost. Accordingly, the time for pruning the vine increases. This needs to be done in winter.

Care and watering

Compliance water balance– an important part in caring for any plant. Blackberries are no exception. The seedling requires regular watering with sufficient water. Fruits may dry out and shrink in size, which can also affect yield.

In gardening, it is important to know that moisture should not get on the blackberries that are ripening, that is, on the berries themselves. In this case, the brushes do not touch the ground. If you ignore these conditions, there is a high probability that the berries will become damp and rot.

Remember, you cannot use well water for hydration. For these purposes, it is better to use either water supply or rainwater. But in any case, the water is poured into some container and left in the sun for several days.

At the age of one year, when the blackberry takes root and reaches a height of 130 centimeters, the top of the shoot should be cut off by 10-12 centimeters. This procedure promotes the growth of lateral buds and branches. Side shoots It is recommended to shorten by 45 centimeters.

It is necessary to take into account that two-year-old fruits first bear shoots, and then stop doing so; they need to be cut out.

Fertilizer for plants

In addition to providing fruit nutrients With the help of watering, the plant also requires fertilizer. Before planting, it is recommended to add a little manure or humus and ash. At the beginning of the flowering season, you can feed with nitrogen fertilizer, and in the fall it is appropriate to replace this potassium-phosphorus fertilizer does not contain chlorine.

Soil maintenance is also required. It needs to not only be moistened, but also loosened. This is done 5-6 times per season to a depth of 5-7 centimeters. Around the bushes blooming blackberries loosen the ground in a slightly different way: with a pitchfork 5 centimeters 2-3 times.

Pests and diseases

Blackberries are a susceptible plant. It succumbs to rust powdery mildew, anthracnose, septoria or white spot, didimella or purple spot, botrytis or gray mold.

It also suffers from a lack or excess of microelements in the soil, as mentioned earlier. But this can be avoided through fertilization.

Diseases appear different ways: if sedge, cedar, pine trees grow nearby; rainy weather, In any case, prevention and treatment are necessary, although only already weakened blackberries are susceptible to disease. Plants need more space, bushes must be ventilated.

The main thing is not to forget about proper care, then problems with diseases will not arise.

In pest control, spraying with acteplic or karbofos is recommended. This will help prevent the appearance of insects such as: mites (spider mites and raspberry hairy mites), raspberry bud moths, raspberry-strawberry weevils, raspberry beetles, gallworms, as well as aphids, gall midges and caterpillars of fire butterflies, raspberry glass beetles.

Pests affect yields, so it is best to get into the habit of treating either in the fall after the flowering season or in the spring before this period.

List of varieties that are rarely affected by diseases and pests:

• Doyle: rarely gets sick.
• Karaka Black: resistant to diseases and pests.
• Thornfree: practically free from disease.
• Osage: Disease resistant.

RESULT

Having only favorable conditions growing blackberries may not be possible desired result. The plant requires careful care and adherence to agricultural technology: shelter during the cold season, pruning the vine after the flowering season. Timely and abundant watering plays an important role; loosening the soil in and near bushes, which differ slightly in loosening techniques, which you also need to know. Watering is also not as simple as it seems: either tap water or rainwater, and blackberries should not be wetted during ripening and flowering. It is recommended to pay attention to fertilizing plants, as this promotes productivity.

The variety plays a big role. The gardener must take into account the qualities that he personally needs, and then select a variety based on these criteria. The article presents lists of both high-yielding plants with large fruits and frost-resistant plants that are not susceptible to pests and diseases. The latter property does not exclude the appearance, however, it is resistant to this and responds much less frequently, however, spraying should still be used in care.

Depending on the properties of blackberries that are a priority for the gardener, you can easily select a variety.

Ruben is suitable for lovers of large and juicy fruits with high yields who do not intend to worry about the plant in winter. It also bears fruit until the first frost. An ideal variety for those whose favorite garden berry is blackberry and who have no desire to eat frozen berries most of the year. When all the varieties have already passed away, Ruben still blooms and bears fruit, and this is a huge advantage of this variety among the others.

Reuben's replacement will be Arapahoe - best variety in terms of taste and size. Also suitable for those who do not want to worry about covering in winter, but enjoy the taste of the fruit.

If desired, everyone who grows ogina will find their own variety that will satisfy their desires in all respects. But Special attention We should pay attention specifically to the yield of the fruit, because having excellent blackberries in terms of taste, we will definitely be worried about collecting as much of it as possible, and if the blackberries do not bloom, this is a real problem.

There is another variety with excellent yield, and the blackberry is not prickly. Sometimes only the second fact pleases farmers who immediately purchase the variety. This is Thornless Evergreen - an evergreen plant.

If you follow all these rules for caring for blackberries and a number of other factors affecting the fruitfulness of the fruit, then the question of blackberries not growing in the garden will no longer bother gardeners.

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Why do blackberries sometimes bear fruit modestly?
The blackberry harvest, like any other crop, depends on the varietal characteristics of the plant. The yield from an adult bush of varieties with a multi-berry cluster is often expressed in double-digit kilograms. Bushes of the Doyle, Evergreen, Thornfree, Black Satin, and Smutstem varieties are especially productive.
A multi-berry cluster (up to several dozen berries) is usually characteristic of erect and semi-erect varieties. Creeping varieties and raspberry-blackberry hybrids bear fruit much more modestly. Their berries are usually larger and juicier, but the number of berries in a cluster is most often no more than 5-6 pieces, as in Tyberry, Loganberry, Texas, Boysenberry, or up to 6-12 pieces in the Silvan variety. It is not difficult to understand that with the same number of flower buds on the shoot, the yield of varieties of the first group differs from the yield of varieties of the second group by several times. The yield of hybrids due to the power of the structure is higher or comparable to the yield of modern raspberry varieties. The value of hybrids is not so much in the yield, but in the unusual taste and size of the berries. In addition to varietal characteristics, the reason for low yields may also be non-compliance with agricultural technology. It must be remembered that culture requires shelter. Without shelter, shoots that should bear fruit next season may freeze. Even if they are not frozen, flower buds, which are usually less frost-resistant, can often freeze. In this case, in the worst case, even necrosis of the tissue around the kidney can be observed. Some gardeners themselves deprive themselves of part of the harvest by pruning in the spring or shortening new shoots in the fall. That is, part of the fruitful vine is simply thrown away. In the fall, only old fruit-bearing vines should be cut back. Some people don’t even do this, believing that since the vine is green, it will last another year. It won't work. There are almost no flower buds on it, it will produce a dozen berries and will significantly shade the fruiting shoots, delaying the ripening of the crop. You can lose a ripening crop by violating the watering regime. Watering while filling the berries is necessary, otherwise the berries become dry and small, but when watering you need to make sure that splashes do not fall on the ripening berries, and the berry clusters themselves do not touch the ground. If this happens, the berry may be affected by gray rot, the same one that can often be seen on strawberries. Therefore, compliance with agricultural technology is very important.
The agricultural technology of garden blackberries is in many ways similar to the agricultural technology of raspberries. Fruiting shoots, just like raspberries, are tied to a trellis.
New replacement shoots that appear during the summer will bear fruit next year. They are placed on the ground. After harvesting, fruit-bearing shoots are cut out. Separate cultivation allows you to freely harvest, since replacement shoots are not confused with fruiting shoots, which is especially important for thorny varieties. Separate cultivation also avoids the transfer of pests and diseases from old shoots to new ones.
Most varieties of garden blackberries are not frost-resistant enough in the conditions of the Middle Zone, so they require bending down for the winter, and some, especially thornless ones, require light shelter. For covering I use one layer of plastic film. Instead of film, you can use organic insulation - foliage or spruce branches. In conditions Middle Strip shelter is necessary in case of a severe snowless pre-winter with temperatures below – 20 degrees. Garden blackberries laid on the ground, covered with snow, winter well even without shelter. But the trouble is that snow often does not have time to cover the laid bush before the onset of severe frosts, so it is necessary to cover it. The number - 20 is not critical temperature- there are varieties that can withstand up to -30. An adult plant will not die even without shelter, but the above-ground part of some varieties may freeze or become frozen. During the summer, new replacement shoots will appear, but the harvest from last year's shoots will be lost. If the blackberry variety is creeping, then bending it down to lay it on the ground is easy. It is impossible to lay mature upright and semi-erect varieties - their shoots have such a powerful lignified stem that it is impossible to lay them on the ground without breaking. In order to lay such plants, this must be taken care of in advance. New replacement shoots that develop vertically, when they reach a height of 40–50 cm, are bent so that the shoot develops horizontally at 20–30 cm from the ground. To prevent the shoot from straightening, its position is fixed with a hook stuck at one end into the ground. Bending the grassy fragile shoot is done carefully to avoid breakage. The end of the shoot is pinched (I pinch off the growth point). Typically, each bud on the main shoot grows into a long, thinner, more pliable side shoot. As a result, instead of one straight (without branches) shoot 3 to 5 m long, a branched shoot 2-2.5 m long is obtained. Pinching is needed in order to create a more compact bush with the maximum number of buds. Replacement shoots formed in this way are easily pressed to the ground when covered in the fall, and can be easily, without breaking, lifted for gartering on a trellis in the spring. Previously, I pinched a new shoot at a length of 1.5 m, but practice has shown that a bush formed in this way is less pliable for lifting and gartering. Each bud on the shoot is flowering. Therefore, the harvest subsequently turns out to be large, and for varieties with a multi-berry cluster, huge.
This branched shoot will bear fruit next year, but this season, weighed down by its own weight, it already falls to the ground without a hook. All that remains is to cover it lightly (if the variety requires it).
The shelter is removed after the snow melts in the spring. The branches are carefully lifted and tied onto a flat trellis (two posts and horizontal wires between them). The height of the trellis depends on the height of the gardener. Usually no higher than 1.8 m. Do not try to tie the shoots vertically. With such a garter, lignified shoots may break. The shoots are tied at angles that the plant itself can support. Usually from 30 to 60 degrees. Blackberries, unlike grapes, do not rot under cover. I don’t limit the number of shoots in a bush. Most varieties do not produce more than 10 pieces. The ground under the bush is cultivated with shallow loosening within a radius of up to 1 m from the center of the bush. Then your plant will not produce offspring. This is a huge advantage of blackberries compared to raspberries.
Layers and annual bushes can be planted both in spring and autumn. It is better to plant in a sunny place, but blackberries also tolerate slight shade. However, bushes growing in the sun develop better, the berries are sweeter and the ripening period is earlier. It is better to plant plants in rows. If the variety is prickly, then the distance between the bushes in the row is 3 m. The distance between thornless bushes can be reduced to 1.5 m. Plants in a row can be of the same variety - cross pollination not required. Since a blackberry bush can grow and bear fruit in one place for many years, the soil before planting is prepared as follows. Add several buckets of humus and half a glass of ash into the planting hole (mix with the removed soil).
If these conditions are met, this most grateful plant will delight you with a rich harvest.