Handmade creation of a warm water floor from polypropylene pipes. Installation of film heated floors under laminate: complete step-by-step instructions How to solder an infrared heated floor

Attaching the clamps

Turn the thermal film face down. For the convenience of lamination of lavsan, there are special air spaces at the edges of the copper busbar, because adhesive base tightly binds the lavsan to the copper busbar. You can use a utility knife, screwdriver, scissors. Important!!! Do not damage the first heating strip; it is best to leave at least 5mm to it.
We insert the clamp so that one of the contact pads of the clamp is pressed directly against the copper busbar.
Squeeze the clamp using pliers using both hands. Do not hit the clamp with a hammer or other objects. The clamp must not touch the heating strip.

Soldering contacts

Stage 1
To connect the contacts (cord-ShVVP, cable-PV3) to the copper bus you will need:
- infrared film floor, 0.5 m wide, up to 8 m long;
- SHVVP cord 0.75 mm2. size, depending on the area of the object and the location of the thermostat;
- electrical insulating tape (with temperature characteristics and electrical transmittance characteristics);
- soldering iron, rosin, tin.

Stage 2
Turn the thermal film face down. To make it easier to separate the lavsan, there are special air spaces at the edges of the copper busbar, because the adhesive base tightly binds the lavsan to the copper busbar. You can use a utility knife, screwdriver, scissors.
Important!!! Do not damage the first heating strip; it is best to leave at least 5mm to it.

Stage 3
From the edge of the copper bus (left or right), in places of special air spaces, we make a cut in the first Mylar sheet to gain access to the copper bus.

Stage 4
At the soldering area, bend the lavsan sheet and put a piece of “solder” (tin).

Stage 5
After applying some rosin to the soldering iron, bring the soldering iron to the copper busbar and prepare the contact point

Stage 6
We clean the cable and tinning it. The contact should not be too long.
To achieve a flatter shape, squeeze the finished contact with pliers.

Stage 7
We bring the tinned wire to the prepared soldering area on the copper busbar and hold it until the connection is made (2-3 seconds).

Stage 8
For one contact you will need 2 pieces of electrical insulation.
One strip of underfloor heating is insulated in 4 places (2 with soldered wires, 2 on the reverse side)

Stage 9
Insulation of the soldering area on one side.

Stage 10
Insulation of the soldering point on the second side. After that, you need to press the electrical tape tightly at the joints.

Stage 11
Ready-made installation kit for implementing the soldering point.
On each strip of heated floor, soldering points should not exceed more than 2, i.e. connecting contacts on both sides is STRICTLY PROHIBITED!!!

Basic information about repairing underfloor heating (electric) with your own hands: what malfunctions may occur and how to repair them, as well as how to repair the system if the cable is broken.

Although warm electric floors have long ceased to be a luxury, but have become commonplace, many consumers, before purchasing and installing such a system, are interested in the question of how long it will last.

Considering the cost of the structure itself, its installation and energy consumption during operation, such experiences are quite appropriate.

As manufacturers promise, electric heated floors are reliable heating systems with a shelf life of 10 years, and this is confirmed by those who have already for a long time uses them. It should be taken into account that no matter how good an electric heated floor is, malfunctions can also occur in it.

Possible causes of failure

The operating principle of a warm electric floor is not much different from other types of electrical appliances. The current hitting the heating element heats it up, which gives off its heat to the screed or floor covering, thereby warming the air in the room.

Passage of current to heating system carried out through a thermostat, the main function of which is to turn the floor on and off, and regulate the strength of its heating. As soon as he reaches set temperature, the thermostat turns off, which also happens when the coating is very overheated.

What can cause weak floor heating or a complete lack of heat?

Typically, the most common culprits are:

Whatever the cause of the breakdown, repair of an electric heated floor, if available necessary tools, you can do it yourself.

Read below on how to repair an electric heated floor.

Do-it-yourself underfloor heating (electric) repair

Cable fix

If the cause of the breakdown is the heating cable, then the steps to detect and eliminate it are as follows:

Disconnect the cable from the thermostat, and the entire system is connected to the mains.
A high-voltage generator must be available to allow the location of the rupture to be located. It will create an electric arc at the site of the breakdown.
If there is no high-voltage generator, you can use an audio detector, which will make a sound at the location of the cable break like a metal detector.
Voltage tester- this is the simplest and effective way check, as it not only shows that there is a cable under the screed, but also the location of its break.

It is difficult and expensive to repair a cable if an electric heated floor has been broken, because it is located under a layer of screed, then troubleshooting must be taken very seriously, starting with measuring the resistance of the heating element to a break.

When the area with the gap is found, you need to:

If out of stock the right tools, it is cheaper to call specialists who will find the cause of the malfunction and eliminate it efficiently and quickly.

Troubleshooting the Sensor

This part of the heated floor is the easiest to repair:

Because the temperature sensor is installed in a corrugated tube, then it won’t be difficult to detect it.
The device must be removed and replaced with a new one., then returning the tube with the sensor to its place.
The good news is that even if you use a grouted cabling system, you won't have to open the floor because part of the corrugated tubing is in the wall. Just take it out, pull the wire and the sensor will come out.
In reverse order, the new device is inserted into the tube, and then the groove in the wall is covered up and returned to its original appearance.

Thermostat malfunction

A common cause of thermostat failure is the terminals., which connect the power cord, cable and temperature sensor. They may come loose and tighten them enough to get the floor working again. When turned on, the voltage in the power supply and at the terminals must match.

If this does not help, and the resistance measurement shows a large deviation from technical indicators, then the thermostat must be replaced.

The same ones simple ways How to repair an electric heated floor with your own hands.

Registration: 12/11/10 Messages: 19 Thanks: 3

an42

Participant

Registration: 12/11/10 Messages: 19 Thanks: 3 Address: Moscow

Hello. Question about grounding. As far as I know, devices in a metal case are usually grounded so that when touched by a person they do not cause an electric shock. If the device is in a plastic case, then there is nothing to ground. I have not seen any cases of wrapping a plastic case in foil for the purpose of grounding.

Hello. Question about grounding. As far as I know, devices in a metal case are usually grounded so that when touched by a person they do not cause an electric shock. If the device is in a plastic case, then there is nothing to ground. I have not seen any cases of wrapping a plastic case in foil for the purpose of grounding.
In any case, the use of foil leads to additional heat loss. The only reasonable explanation for using foil is for interference shielding.
Since film flooring experts have gathered here, I would like to ask. I typed “film floor” into Google and got a sea of links. I would like to know which brands are really in demand in our market. Thank you in advance.

IMHO Caleo is the best

Registration: 06.11.10 Messages: 88 Thanks: 18

Registration: 12/24/09 Messages: 633 Thanks: 163

Well, it broke through. This beauty.
Well, I can find as many sites as I want.
But I wrote that this is my PERSONAL OPINION and I am not imposing it on anyone. I am not a seller or a dealer.
By cracking. Go to the people where it has been standing for more than 3 years and measure its resistance. On a tire in a change house it hung on the wall for 2 years and the resistance increased by 5-8%
Just adjusting and repairing regulators, I saw a lot of different floors. Water ones are normal if you live with them and have gas at hand. But they need a plumber, not an electronics engineer.

There are many ways to make a heated floor in an apartment or private house, but using a heating cable is the simplest and most inexpensive option, so it is in great demand.

The heating cable is copper wire through which electric current passes. To enlarge performance characteristics it is placed in a special fiber winding and heat-resistant polyvinylethylene. Thanks to this design, the safety of its use is ensured. An electric current passing through a wire releases thermal energy, due to which the surface is heated.

Electrical cables under concrete screed have different power: from 15 to 40 W/m, can heat up to 90 o C. The conductor - the core - is galvanized steel or copper. Any wire is designed for a traditional electrical network with a voltage of 220 V.

What types of heating cable are there?

There are two criteria for classifying heating cables under screed:

By number of conductor:
By wire type:

A single-core resistive wire for a concrete screed has the simplest structure and is characterized by low cost.

A resistive type electrical wire for a heated floor has one or two cores, which are placed in an insulating sheath, and couplings are installed at both ends, with the help of which the connection to the electrical network. If a single-core cable is used, a closed circuit must be ensured. This means that the cable should be placed on the floor so that both ends fit into the installation box.

Resistive cable T2BLUE Raychem

If a two-core wire is used, then the presence of a second conductor ensures that the current circuit is closed, so only one end is placed in the box, and a plug is mounted on the other.

A two-core cable has a more complex structure:

both cores are placed in insulating material, for example, silicone rubber;
two wires are combined with fiberglass;
a tinned copper conductor is used for grounding;
Aluminum foil protects the core from local overheating;
the entire structure is placed in an outer shell made of polyvinyl chloride.

Single core cable has one significant advantage - price, and a two-wire one costs 20% more. The two-core cable is easy to lay under the screed - you can use any convenient way, without having to return the other end to the box.

When connected to an electrical outlet, a resistive wire constantly generates heat - this is its main drawback. Because if the thermal energy is blocked from the output, it will cause the wire to overheat and a short circuit will occur. You cannot lay such wires in places where you plan to place furniture.

Self-regulating cable

A shielded or self-regulating cable for underfloor heating is a matrix, inside of which two conductors are placed, and between them there is a layer of polymer, which releases the necessary thermal energy. The special feature of this cable is that it regulates heating due to the resistance of the polymer. As the temperature increases, the resistance also increases, which leads to a decrease in current strength and, as a result, the amount of heat generated decreases.

Self-regulating heating cable braid

Thanks to this structure, the self-regulating cable is also quite economical, so over time it will justify the investment in its purchase.

Screened wire composition:

carbon conductor;
polymer;
insulation;
reinforcing braid;
external insulation made of PVC.

Despite the ability to control overheating, it is also not recommended to lay such a cable under furniture, since this will increase electricity consumption but will not provide the necessary effect - heating the cabinet is pointless.

Heating mats

To simplify the installation of underfloor heating using a heating cable, special mats have been developed. They consist of a mesh base on which heating elements are fixed.

The main advantage of this design is that you don’t have to make a concrete screed, but you can immediately lay the finishing layer on top (most often tiles are used).

Installation of mats is very convenient because it is easy to change direction and can be laid in any order, bypassing the furniture locations. Most often, a resistive two-core cable is placed in the mats.

Laying the heating mat

The most common brands of heating cables and their characteristics

Presented on the Russian market as domestic producers electrical cables for heated floors under screed, and imported.

Brand	Section length, m	Power, W/m	Maximum operating temperature, about C	Service life, years
Single core cable
National comfort, NK-250	17	15	90	15
Teplolux	10	14	90	25
Neoclima	5	15,2	100	35
Twin cable
Ceilhit	8,1	18	100	25
Teplolux Elite	15	27	90	30
Raychem T2	14	20	100	35
Self-regulating cable
Optiheat 15/30	15	30	100	40
Devi-pipeguard 25	25	30	85	30
Heating mat
NeoClima	0.65 m2	105	80	25
Electrolux EEFM	2 m 2	150	80	35
National comfort	0.5 m2	130	90	25

Rules for installing heated floors with electric wire

For electric heated floors, it is necessary to ensure ideal flat surface rough base, since there may be air in the voids, which will lead to burnout of the resistive element. A thin screed of 3 to 5 cm is recommended for the subfloor.

Next comes thermal insulation. The thickness of the material should be at least 2 cm, but if this is an apartment on the ground floor, it is better to choose a thicker one. When choosing a material, you should pay attention to heat resistance - it must withstand heating up to 100 o C. It is better not to use material with a foil coating - foil will quickly deteriorate under the influence of constantly high temperatures. An alternative is a metallic coating - it will reflect heat and direct it upward.

Self-installation of electric heated floors

Used as roll insulation, and slabs. One condition is that there should be no gaps between the canvases. If heated floors are installed in the bathroom or kitchen, you should use waterproofing materials. They will prevent the penetration of unwanted moisture.

The most commonly used is thick polyethylene film. The next stage is installation heating elements. It can be carried out on a special mounting tape, which has cable fasteners. You can replace it reinforcement mesh, the cells of which do not exceed 1.5 cm.

The next stage is the screed. You can use any materials that can withstand high temperatures. This or concrete composition with the addition of polymers, or ready-made dry mixtures for heated floors. Before pouring the screed, you need to check the functionality heating system. The test takes place using a tester that measures the maximum resistance. Deviations within 10% from the data specified in the wire passport are allowed.

Installing the Thermostat

To save energy and more efficient operation of the heated floor, you should use a thermostat. It must be installed before laying the heating elements. It is mounted in a convenient place, at least 30 cm away from the floor. You need to make a niche in the wall to install the box and draw a groove to the base of the floor, in which the corrugation or pipe is placed. The corrugation should pass another 0.5–1 m along the base of the floor; connecting wires from the heating elements are placed in it.

The ends of the cable must be led to the thermostat in such a way that the couplings remain in the screed.

Cable laying

There are several cable routing options:

The snail layout is less popular, especially if resistive elements are used. The pitch between turns is selected independently, depending on required power per 1 m 2. The minimum permissible distance is 5 cm, the maximum is 30 cm.

First, you should decide whether it will be the main heating in the room or auxiliary. If the main thing is, then you need to provide a power of 150 W or more, and when the heated floor is only an additional system, 110 W is enough.
Secondly, the degree of floor insulation is taken into account - if this is a ground floor apartment, then you need to provide 140–150 W, even with additional heating. More powerful elements should be installed on the balcony or loggia - up to 180 W.
Thirdly, the definition of the heated area is approximately 70% of the floor, taking into account the location of the furniture (the wire is not laid under it).

Now you can calculate the cable length. For example, the coverage area is 10 m 2, it is necessary to organize a power of 140 W per 1 m 2. There is a heating cable for underfloor heating with a power of 16 W. We calculate the maximum consumption: 140 * 10 = 1400 W. We determine the length of the cable: 1400/16 = 87.5 m. Now you need to select the number of bays or sections that will come as close as possible to this value, since shortening the heating cable for a heated floor is very problematic.

How to shorten the cable?

The question of how to shorten a heating cable may arise when the wrong footage has been calculated and there is nowhere to put the excess (you must remember the minimum permissible distance between turns is 5 cm). The wire is sold in coils that have several sections. Couplings are installed at the ends of the cable in the section. A certain resistance is created inside each section. If you cut the wire yourself, the balance will be upset: the resistance will decrease, the current will increase.

As a result of this, the cable will simply burn out, so you should use up the entire footage for coverage. But if such a need arises, then it is better to entrust the pruning to a professional. It will determine how much resistance is lost and install a current-limiting resistor to compensate.

Video: Nexans TXLP heating cable for underfloor heating

Anyone who decides to install electric heating in their home will one day ask many questions, one of which is related to the specifics of choosing a cable for a heated floor.

Peculiarities

Electric heated floor is modern variety residential heating system. This design consists of heating mats and special regulators laid under the floor or between layers of concrete screed.

The advantages of the scheme include:

uniform heat distribution along the height of the building;
absence of circulation disturbances in the form of convection currents - movement of heat in the air;
simplicity and clarity self-installation systems;
cost-effectiveness of professional installation;
saving usable area heated space;

no need for additional equipment;
Possibility of installation for any flooring;
increased comfort and convenience;
environmental friendliness;
Possibility of use by people suffering various types allergies, bronchial asthma.

The disadvantages of electric heating are:

high cost of 1 kW of electricity;
Creation electromagnetic field within a heated room;
mandatory skills in handling temperature regulators;
difficulty in diagnosing and repairing the system;
existence of height restrictions for heated buildings;
the need to improve electrical safety through grounding.

However, with rational design and proper installation, all these shortcomings are eliminated by themselves, therefore this system is becoming increasingly popular among consumers.

The main operating element of an electric heated floor is the heating cable. The efficiency of the entire heating mechanism depends on its quality and features, so you should choose a heating cable for these purposes carefully and responsibly.

Species

Before making your final choice, you need to familiarize yourself with all the types of heating cables. There are the following types.

Resistive cable

It creates the same temperature along its length and is divided into varieties:

Single-core. This species lives up to its name. It consists of one heating core, reinforced with a sheath of wire or foil. The process of connecting such a cable requires that both ends converge in one place, that is, connecting them to the temperature controller. A single-core cable has a number of advantages, namely:

maximum heating temperature;
low energy consumption;
affordable price.

Two-core. Consists, respectively, of two cores, which are also surrounded by protective film. The two-core cable does not require a return to connect. The circuit is closed by connecting a special coupling to the free end of the wire. Its advantages include:

ease of installation;
the ability to create a route of any shape and length;
one-way connection;
constancy of the electromagnetic field.

Self-regulating

This cable is based on two conductive cores in contact with a semiconductor polymer matrix, which regulates the heating of the system depending on the temperature of the surrounding space. The matrix is insulated in two layers and protected by a screen braid located between the layers. The advantages of a self-regulating wire are as follows:

versatility;
durability;
the ability to independently select the temperature in the room;
resistance to damage;
reliability.

Electrical mats

To make the installation of heated floors simpler and more convenient, as well as to keep financial costs to a minimum, it is recommended to use special electric heating mats. In turn, they are divided into:

cable;
carbon;
film.

Let's take a closer look at each type:

Cable (wire) mat is a flat, flexible device consisting of a single-core wire attached to metal mesh in the shape of a snake. These mats are ideal for tile and tiled finishes.
Carbon or carbon fiber mat is a structure of parallel mounted autonomous self-regulating heating rods that emit infrared radiation, which is the heat source in such circuits.
Film mat, in fact, is structured in the same way as carbon.

The only difference is that the carbon rods are additionally protected by a polymer film.

Characteristics

Regardless of the type heating cables characterized by a number of main indicators:

Core material. According to their composition, the wires are divided into:

aluminum (more suitable for stationary installations);
copper (flexible but heavy);
aluminum-copper (the most convenient and economical option).

It should be remembered that the resistance of the cable depends on the material.

Number and thickness of wires in the core. This indicator is directly proportional to the flexibility of the wire, that is, the more thin wires, the more elastic the cable.
Insulation material. In order to protect the cable fiber from mechanical damage, as well as prevent leaks, all wires are strengthened and divided according to the type of insulation into:

armored;
heat resistant;
waterproof;
pressure protected and so on.

Operating temperature range (heat resistance). The higher this indicator, the higher the heating temperature of the cable without losing its original properties.
Section or cut area of the current-carrying conductor. For single-core wires the cross section is determined by the formula for the area of a circle (the product of the square of the radius and the number Pi - 3.14). For two-core cables, the cross-section is the sum of the cut areas of both cores. According to the “Rules for Electrical Installations”, the cross-sectional size is selected taking into account the planned loads (such as current power, for example) using special tables or average values.
Service life. On average it ranges from 20-25 years. Having studied the basic characteristics of electrical cables, we can conclude that for heated floors you should choose copper or aluminum-copper heat-resistant wires with a cross-section of at least 1.5-2.5 mm2, which allows you to turn on the thermostat at the maximum heating temperature.

Installation

Electric flooring is installed according to the following algorithm:

Drawing up a project and calculating areas. First you need to draw a plan for each room in which you plan to install a heating system. After this, a separate calculation of the total area of the room (Stotal) is performed. Next, the arrangement of furniture is noted on the plan, and the area occupied by it (Sm) is calculated. Based on these data, you can calculate the direct laying area (Sу) using a simple formula: Sу = Stotal – Sm

The heated surface should occupy from 50 to 80% of the total area of the room, otherwise the use of heated floors is impractical.

Heating power calculation. At the preliminary stages of installation, it is necessary to calculate the power of the electric heating device. There is a formula for this: Рtr = Рп*1.3, where Rp is the heat loss power, Rtr is the power of the thermostat. That is, the power of the heating device should be calculated with a margin of 30%.

Selecting a resistive cable or heating mat. Wires are selected taking into account the power and type of room. This can be done using special assortment tables produced by various manufacturers. The choice of mat is also carried out on the basis of power indicators and assortment.

Calculation of the required quantity of heating element. For a cable floor, the laying step must be determined, that is, the distance between the wire circuits. Calculations are made using the formula: x = Sу * 100/Dkab, where Su is the cable laying area, Dcab is the length of the wire.

To calculate the last variable, that is, the cable length, it is better to use the built-in calculators on construction sites. When determining the required number of heating mats, formulas are not needed. It is enough to know the laying area.

Calculation electrical system warm floor. This stage, which includes the collection of technical and permitting documentation for installation, as well as assessing the condition of the electrical wiring, is best left to professionals.
Selecting a thermostat. When going to the store for the most important device in this scheme, it is advisable to follow simple recommendations:

listen to the advice of consultants;
take into account current load indicators;
give preference to models with a temperature sensor if the underfloor heating system is planned to be used only as additional source heat;
purchase a multi-room regulator with remote sensors if electric heating will be carried out simultaneously in several rooms.

Electrical wiring design. For safety reasons and further uninterrupted operation of the system, it is better to entrust this work to an electrician.
Performing thermal insulation subfloor, for example, mineral wool.
Cable fixation or laying a mat. The process is not particularly difficult.
Installation of thermostat and sensors. This step is the most important of all. If you are not confident in your abilities, then entrust the work to a professional.
Connecting the system. A single-core cable is connected by connecting two ends to the device, and a two-core cable - one. To close such a circuit, an end coupling is used, to which the free end must be connected. On at this stage Now is the time to cut, shorten or extend the cable, adjusting it to the desired size.

You can cut the cable yourself using suitable tools.

System check. Conducted within half an hour.
Fill. If tiles are chosen as the floor covering, then the concrete screed can be replaced with tile adhesive.
Alignment. The principle of operation is to distribute the solution.
Drying. The layer of poured mixture must dry. To speed up the process, it is recommended to open the door to the street.
Laying the final decorative coating. All that remains is to lay the material chosen as the flooring.

How to repair?

If the electric floor heating system has stopped functioning, you need to find the cause of the malfunction. As a rule, there are three of them:

lack of power supply;
thermostat failure;
cable break or damage.

To carry out diagnostics, you will need an indicator screwdriver or a multimeter. Using these devices, the presence of voltage phases is determined, resistance fluctuations are measured, and cable break locations are detected. If there is no power supply, contact a specialist. If the regulator breaks down, it is recommended to replace it. If the wire is broken, you can fix it yourself. The technology for repairing a broken cable is as follows: