Cutting tool It becomes dull when working with wood. A dull tool crushes the wood, making the carving look rough and sloppy. A tool blade sharpened to the required sharpness and tucked in makes the carved product clean and makes work easier. Good master always keeps his tools sharp and ready for use at any time. A properly sharpened tool lasts longer, and vice versa - if there are defects, it quickly becomes unusable. Every woodcarver should be able to sharpen and refuel his tool himself using an electric sharpener, a sharpener with manual drive or manually.

Sharpening and straightening on an electric sharpener. The fastest and most convenient way is to sharpen and refuel a tool using an electric sharpener. various devices. The most convenient is an electric sharpener, on the motor shaft of which you can install replaceable abrasive and finishing wheels on both sides - rubber with abrasive and felt (Fig. 75).

Rice. 75.
Electric sharpener for sharpening and dressing tools:
a - modernized double-sided sharpener with devices for sharpening, straightening and polishing tools: 1 - sliding stop; 2 - felt circle, 3 - protective screen; 4 - abrasive wheel; 5 - engine; 6 - movable url device: 1 - horizontal movement clamp; 2 - movable platform for selecting the sharpening angle; 3 - fixing bolt vertical movement; b - device for straightening and fitting the tool (diagram): 1 - electric motor; 2 - belt drive; 3 - felt circles; 4 - wooden circles for corners; 5 - rubber wheels with abrasive; 6 - bearings; 7 - metal frame; 8 - movable stop; 9 - shaft

Before you start work, you need to prepare everything you need. A woodcarver constantly needs a variety of chisels, for sharpening and refilling of which you need to have a large set of abrasive wheels. For profile chisels (corners, semicircular and flat) you need appropriate circles, which you can make yourself by giving them the desired profile using a piece of an abrasive wheel of increased hardness.

The emphasis on the electric sharpener must be movable so that it can be moved in vertical and horizontal directions. The platform on the stop should also change the angle of inclination or you need to have several platforms with different angles. Place a container of water next to the sharpener.

Tool sharpening techniques. To master correct technique and techniques for sharpening a tool blade, you must adhere to certain rules. First, install a suitable abrasive wheel and determine the desired sharpening angle of the blade, secure the stop and platform so that there are no vibrations or even slight displacements, turn on the electric motor and begin sharpening. The basis for proper sharpening of a tool is chamfering (Fig. 76).

Rice. 76.
Chamfering:
a - on straight chisels; b - on semicircular and sloping chisels: 1 - external chamfer; 2 - internal chamfer; c - on corner chisels: 1 - internal chamfer; 2 - external chamfer

When grinding a chamfer, take the handle of the chisel in right hand(Fig. 77), and with your left hand hold it in the middle part and lightly press the blade against the abrasive wheel. It is necessary to ensure that the chamfer is sharpened evenly in one plane over the entire width; to do this, the chisel blade is shifted from left to right and back. Semicircular and flat chisels are rotated evenly during sharpening. It is necessary to constantly lower the chisel blade into water, otherwise you can burn out the blade and the chamfer will become wrinkled. Such a tool becomes unusable; you have to grind off a lot of metal, which shortens the length of the chisel blade.

Rice. 77.
Position of the chisel when sharpening (arrows indicate the direction of movement of the chisel):
1 - straight chisel: 2 - semicircular and sloping; 3 - corner chisel

When burrs appear, replace the coarse-grained abrasive wheel with a fine-grained one and sharpen the chamfer, making the burr completely invisible. Then the chisel is finally adjusted on a thick felt circle with GOI paste. If there is no paste, you can replace it with chromium oxide oil paint or prepare it yourself from 80 parts of chromium oxide, 12 parts of wax or paraffin, 3 parts of kerosene and 5 parts of fat. The dressing paste is rubbed into the felt circle evenly around the entire circumference.

Since the tool becomes dull during the carving process, from time to time it has to be re-threaded on felt wheels. It is advisable to have a device (see Fig. 75), on the shaft of which felt wheels with profile shapes and finishing wheels for polishing the surfaces of chisels are attached. To fill the corners, use wooden circles, carved from linden or other soft wood, coated with dressing paste.

Polish the tool on finishing wheels (rubber with abrasive or corundum). But the chisel blade itself cannot be polished on finishing wheels, as it becomes rounded and blunt. To sharpen and refuel the tool, you can adapt an electric drill, using it as an electric sharpener.

Sharpening and dressing of tools by hand is possible with a set of simple and profiled whetstones of varying hardness and grain size, as well as profiled and simple whetstones.

Rice. 78.
Hand sharpener:
1 - factory-made; 2 - homemade

For convenience and speed of sharpening and straightening, you can use a hand sharpener (Fig. 78) or make the device shown in Fig. 79, however, in some cases you have to hold the whetstone in your hands, which is not very convenient.

Rice. 79.
Device for sharpening and dressing tools manually

Wooden boards with bars and whetstones inserted or glued into them can be coated with waterproof varnish or impregnated with hot wax, mastic or paraffin to prevent cracking and unsticking, since the whetstones and whetstones are moistened with water during tool sharpening.

The tool is first sharpened on a coarse-grained whetstone, then on a fine-grained one and straightened on a whetstone, micro-corundum stone, canvas or leather belt with GOI paste, or on a dressing board with diamond or dressing paste.

Sharpening a joint. Knives and chisels are sharpened with a bevel angle from 30 to 80°, depending on the complexity of the carved ornament, its depth, size and curvilinear shape (Fig. 80). The bevel and chamfer angle on both sides of the blade can be obtained using a manual sharpener. Then sharpening and refueling are carried out on whetstones and whetstones.

Rice. 80.
Sharpening a joint with one bevel:
a - sharpening parameters: 1 - chamfer; 2 - sock; 3 - blade; 4 - heel; 6 - hand position when working

During sharpening, the knife or chisel is held so that the entire plane of the chamfer is adjacent to the block. Sharpen the joint with smooth and even movements, directing it back and forth or in a circle along the plane of the block until a thin burr appears on the edge of the blade. After this, they sharpen another bevel of the jamb, turning it over until the burr falls off completely. When processed on a fine-grained stone, the chamfers become completely smooth.

Then the joint is edited on a micro-corundum whetstone in the same sequence as on a block. After straightening, finishing is carried out on a straightening board or leather belt with diamond or GOI filling paste.

The jamb can also be sharpened in another way: on the wide chamfers of the jamb, a second chamfer is ground off near the blade; it is faster and more convenient to thread it during operation (Fig. 81).

Rice. 81.
Sharpening a double bevel jamb:
1 - first chamfer, 2 - second chamfer

Check the sharpness of the joint on a pine or spruce board by making cuts across the grain of the wood. If the blade enters the wood easily and the cut is smooth, without breaking the fibers, the joint is sufficiently sharpened.

Sharpening straight chisels

Straight chisels are sharpened and straightened in the same way as a jamb, but if a burr appears on the chamfer, the blade of the chisel is not turned over, but continues to be sharpened on a fine-grained whetstone and finished on a whetstone. Finishing is carried out on a straightening board or belts with GOI paste (Fig. 82).

Rice. 82.
Sharpening a straight chisel:
1 - hand position; 2 - correct tilt of the chisel when sharpening a chamfer; 3 - incorrect tilt of the chisel

Sharpening and straightening profile chisels. Profile chisels are sharpened on a board with a set of whetstones and whetstones having suitable profile(Fig. 83). Internal surfaces chisel is processed smooth movements back and forth along the length of the block or whetstone; They also sharpen the bevels of the chisel, turning it from side to side until the burr falls off. Having received smooth surface on a fine-grained whetstone, the chisel is adjusted on a belt or straightening board coated with dressing or diamond paste.

Rice. 83.
Sharpening and straightening a profile chisel:
1 - board with a set of profile bars and touchstones; 2 - straightening board with chisel profiles; 3 - leather or canvas belt for straightening

Sharpening and setting saws. Carving requires a lot of work. various saws(hacksaws, bowsaws and others), which require sharpening and sharpening quite often. Dull saws make work much more difficult.

In Fig. 84 there are several devices for quick sharpening drank

Rice. 84.
Tools for sharpening saws:
a - clamp in a vice: 1 - saw; 2 - wooden spacers; 3 - file with rubber tip; b - wedge clamp: 1 - saw; 2 - wedge clamp

Rice. 84 (continued). Devices for sharpening saws: clamp to a workbench with clamps: 1 - file; 2 - gaskets; 3 - saw; 4 - clamps; g - clamp for bow saw

If the saw hits a stone, nail, or other metal object, then one side of the teeth or several teeth become smaller in height. Because of this, the pipa “moves” away from the desired direction, so damaged teeth must be aligned - milled (Fig. 85).

Rice. 85.
Tool for aligning saw teeth:
a - c triangular file; b - with a rectangular file: 1 - saw; 2 - file; 3 - block; 4 - wedge; 5 - rubber hose

The correct setting of saw teeth also has great value. Even a sharply sharpened saw does not cut well without cutting. Moreover, each saw is intended for any specific purpose and must have different divorce. Saws with a wide tooth spread are used for working with soft, wet and loose rocks; Dense and hard wood requires a small tooth set.

The saws are set using manual and mechanical settings (Fig. 86). The opening angle is adjusted by the width of the wiring slot or by setting the desired inclination in mechanical wiring.

Rice. 86.
Saw layouts:
1 - tooth set; 2 - types of wiring

On July 28, 2009, Alexander Konyaev on my balcony-workshop gave a master class on sharpening a “completely killed” chisel (the blade is jagged). Chisel by blacksmith Charles Hill from Cheffield (England); Apparently she is at least 100 years old. We discussed this rarity on the forum: . Alexander was assisted by Zifa Mansurova, filmed and slightly prompted by Oleg Smirnov.

Technology

Stage 1. Sharpening a chisel on a sharpening machine.

Stage 2. Finishing the blade on whetstones

Stage 3. Polishing the blade on a felt wheel

Let's look at the steps in the video.

Stage 1. Sharpening a chisel on a sharpening machine

Main know-how:

1. When sharpening, the blade does not touch the sharpening machine platform. You need to catch it, feel the plane of the blade with your fingers.

2. Sharpening continues until a “sharpening” or “fringe” appears (I called the sharpening a “beard”).

3. Continuously wet the blade in water so as not to burn it.

Stage 2. Finishing the blade on whetstones

Main know-how:

1. First we use a coarse whetstone, then a finer one. Touchstones are aquatic, pre-soaked in water and always kept wet.

2. The fringe should never be broken off by hand! The fringe should remain on the shards or fall off on its own.

3. We finish finishing until all the fringe falls off.

The fringe looks like this:

Stage 3. Polishing the blade on a felt wheel

Main know-how:

1. The essence of polishing on a felt wheel is to burn off the remaining fringe and polish the surface of the cutting edge.

Proper sharpening of the chisel ensures precise cutting and ease of control of the tool. However, not only the sharpness of its blade is important, but also the sharpening angles, which depend on the type of tool and the characteristics of the work performed. If you sharpen the cutting surface correctly and maintain the appropriate chamfer angle, the carpenter will make much less effort when removing chips and can easily maintain their thickness. And this directly affects not only the cutting accuracy, but also labor productivity.

The cutting part of the chisel can be sharpened and finished using both manual and powered abrasive tools. As a rule, these are various sharpening stones, sandpaper-wrapped stones, sheet abrasives, polishing bases made of cloth and felt, as well as vertical and horizontal sharpening machines. In order to sharpen a chisel, you first need to fix it at the desired angle to the abrasive plane. Many people do this manually, which, with certain skills, provides more or less acceptable quality. However, most craftsmen sharpen chisels using special devices that fix their blades strictly at a given angle.

A chisel is a hand-held carpentry tool consisting of a handle and a blade, which in everyday life is also called a blade (see figure below). Her metal part made of tool steel, and the handle is made of hardwood: oak, beech, hornbeam, birch, acacia. Recently, modern materials have also been used as a material for handles. polymer materials. Wood is cut using a chamfer cutting edge, the sharpening angle of which depends on the type and purpose of the chisel.

Sharpening a chisel yourself is not difficult if you follow certain rules. Regardless of what and how you are going to sharpen this tool (manually or using an electric sharpener), its blade must be rigidly fixed at a given angle, not only in the longitudinal direction, but also in the transverse direction. Inclinations of the chamfer to the right or to the left are unacceptable, as this causes the tool to drift and uneven chip removal.

The chamfer can be sharpened using a grinding stone with a grain size of 300÷400 microns. The main thing is to achieve its linearity and equality of angles of inclination on both sides of the canvas. The finishing and sharpening of the cutting edge is carried out on a grinding stone with a grain size of 50÷80 microns.

The inclination of the chisel blade chamfer depends on the type of work for which it is intended. Typically its value lies in the range of 25±5º. This value is standardized by GOST 1184-80, but in practice it may differ slightly in one direction or another. Typically, the angle at which a chisel blade needs to be sharpened is directly related to its thickness: thicker blades tend to have a steeper bevel.

To perform slotting work using a mallet, the chamfer must be sharpened at an angle of 27÷30º. The steeper angle prevents damage to the cutting edge when significant impact forces are applied to the chisel. If you have the only chisel at home, then it is better to sharpen it with a bevel of about 25º - this is suitable for most carpentry work. But for accurate trimming and removal of thin chips, the tool will have to be sharpened to 20÷22º. The bevel of the cutting edge relative to the chamfer plane is usually about 5º.

Sharpening accessories

A standard chisel sharpening kit includes three main components: an abrasive for initial processing, abrasives for finishing, and a sharpening mandrel for fixing the angle at which the blade needs to be sharpened. The latter is divided into two types: equipment, with which the cutting edge can be sharpened on an abrasive wheel of an electric sharpener, and manual mandrels for grinding on bars and sheet abrasives.

Manual devices have many options: from homemade wooden devices, in which the angle is set with wedges, to factory-made metal products with angular adjustment. All of them are designed approximately the same and consist of two main functional components: a carriage for moving along the abrasive surface and an inclined platform with a clamp, which is set at the required angle before sharpening the blade. In order to sharpen a chamfer, both hand tools and power tools are used, but the finishing of the cutting edge is done only by hand.

Using a wheel and sandpaper

When forming a chisel chamfer, various sharpening stones are used: both round ones on an electric sharpener, and flat ones in the form of sharpening and grinding stones, as well as sheet sanding material on fabric and paper based. To sharpen the bevel of a chisel on a sharpening machine, you need to make sure that its speed and the sharpening wheel installed on it will not cause the metal of the chisel to overheat and loosen. The rotation speed of the spindle of the electric sharpener should not be higher than 1800÷2000 rpm, and grindstone should be used viscous, medium soft and with abrasive filler (for example, aluminum oxide).

In order to qualitatively sharpen and finish a chisel blade, it is necessary to use abrasive products that combine both grinding and polishing qualities. Sharpeners are best suited for this role. water stones. Before starting work, they must be soaked in water, which rises to the surface during sharpening and mixes with abrasive dust and creates a viscous grinding suspension. Fine-grained sheet abrasive material is also well suited for such work. During the sharpening process, it must be wetted, so it is advisable to use waterproof sandpaper. You can sharpen the chamfer and edge of a chisel using this material by securing it to flat surface or wrapped around a wooden block.

Having sharpened the chamfer to the desired angle, you can proceed to the finishing operation, during which cutting edge will be brought to the utmost sharpness, with work surface All micro-irregularities and scratches will be removed, and the surface itself will be polished to a mirror shine. In this case, grinding is a consequence of finishing, since the main goal at this stage is the linear accuracy of the working surfaces.

Finishing and grinding are inherently different operations. The first ensures the geometric accuracy of the chamfer plane, and the second - the class of its roughness. An ideal mirror surface can be tilted to the left or right or have a significant convexity, which will lead the chisel to the side when moving.

There are two ways to sharpen the cutting edge at the finishing stage. Either simply bring the working end of the chamfer to the required sharpness, or form a small bevel at its end several millimeters wide with an inclination to the chamfer of approximately 5º. To do this, first the main plane is adjusted, then the sharpening mandrel is set at an angle of 30º, after which grinding continues until the specified bevel width is achieved.

The process of sharpening a chisel with your own hands

Sharpening the cutting edge of a chisel with your own hands requires a strong grip, attentiveness and patience, as well as a minimum set of sharpening and grinding materials. If you need to significantly change the sharpening angle, it is better to first use sharpening machine. If there is no such need, then you can sharpen your chisel in the following order:

Grind the chamfer using an abrasive stone until there are no visible holes or damage. It is necessary to strictly maintain its inclination not only in the longitudinal, but also in the transverse direction. This can be done either manually or using a homemade clamping device from several wooden blocks.
Check the line of the cutting edge, which should be strictly perpendicular to the chisel blade. If not, straighten it with a sharpening stone and then re-sharpen it to a sharp point.
Wrap wooden block fine-grained sanding paper, secure it with nails or staples, moisten it with water, and then, carefully pressing the chamfer to the abrasive surface, grind it to a shine and an extremely sharp edge. If desired, the blade can then be polished on a felt wheel using polishing paste.
If you need to sharpen a chisel with a bevel on the edge, then grinding is best done with a stop, lifting the blade up by about 5º.
After finishing work, carefully wipe the chisel dry.

To properly sharpen a chisel, you need to remember one important technical rule for performing grinding and sharpening work: all movements should be performed only in one direction.

In Russian-language articles, authors almost never focus on sharpening the bevel of the cutting edge. In practice, many people actually do without this option and use straight edge chisels. What do you think about this? What's the best way to sharpen a chisel? Please share your thoughts and experiences in the comments to this article.

A chisel is a carpentry tool that can be used to pick out wood in difficult places, chamfer and trim wood when processing pieces of furniture.

All types of chisels are divided according to their purpose into: carpentry, wood carving, turning.

The difference between a chisel and a chisel

The chisel is in demand where it is necessary to gouge out deep grooves and sockets. The device looks like an elongated metal bar mounted on a handle. The end of the chisel handle is looped with a crimping piece that protects the handle from splitting.

Cutting techniques with a chisel: a, b, c - trimming and cleaning tenons, sockets, grooves, d - cutting grooves, e, f - chamfering, g, h, i - processing curved surfaces.

The chisel, which is a hand-held device for woodworking, is represented by a sharpened plate-like steel element with a handle. In other words, the design of a chisel is a sharpened blade with a handle (wooden or metal).

A chisel with a chisel is distinguished by the angle of the sharpened cutter and the absence of a 2-sided chamfer in the length of the working element relative to the side being sharpened. Another difference is the significant d of the metal rod of the bit. Therefore, it is completely unrealistic to confuse these two carpenter’s tools.

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Classifications of chisels

All types of chisels are divided into:

carpentry;
wood carvings;
turning

Scheme of cutting with a chisel: 1 - chips, 2 - workpiece, 3, 4 - cutters.

There is another division:

according to the variant of movement in the thickness of the material;
according to the shape of the handle;
by size.

The basis for dividing instruments into groups is also taken as follows:

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Operating principle of devices

The movement of the chisel in the thickness of the material occurs due to short tapping on the handle with a special percussion instrument: with a mallet or hammer.

This type hand tools It is popular when processing hard wood varieties, when colossal physical forces are required.

The devices are equipped with an elongated handle and a cutting element. Using a chisel, hold it in your hand, and with the other you perform monotonous taps on the handle. The handle structure is strengthened by a loop. For greater effectiveness of the procedures, use a hammer made of rubber or polyurethane.

Another type of chisel is with a long handle, but a shortened cutter. Their purpose is for manipulation with two hands when moving the instrument.

Chisels (a), flat (b) and semicircular (c) chisels: 1 - blade, 2 - cap, 3 - handle, 4 - ring.

Work with such devices is carried out on soft types of wood. The smooth head of the rounded handle fits comfortably in your fist. It is possible to use a rubber hammer when the density of the wood is high and it is necessary to improve movement in the thickness of the rock.

They produce varieties of chisels, the movement of which in the thickness of the material is carried out exclusively with the help of hands. They are shorter and thinner than other options. The movement through the material is affected by the sharpening angle of the cutter and the volume of work (dimensions of the processed area). Professional carvers and inlaymakers work with similar types of devices.

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Cutting surface shape

The transverse shape of the cutting surface is divided into:

straight;
radius;
flat;
corner;
stapled.

The straight shape of the working element has no curvature. A tool with a flat cross-section profile is subdivided by width and thickness, by bending or straight cut shape.

A frequently encountered type of device is a radius, the cutting element of which is represented by a segment of a circle. When choosing this variety, a small check is carried out: the chisel, when positioned at the end, when turning, should outline a complete circle around its axis. Such a device with a universal operating principle will allow you to do carpentry with ease and precision.

A box or staple type is a tool whose cutting element has sides of different heights.

Angle chisels - their profile resembles the V in Latin. The main criterion here is the height of the corner edge and the 90º angle itself.

Longitudinal shape of the cutting part:

bent;
cranberry

Klyukarza has a steep longitudinal bend of the cut, which begins to bend more strongly closer to the end of the tool blade.

The curved type is endowed with full longitudinal bending of the blade. In this case, the surface is curved along the entire length, and not just in one part, as in cranberries.

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Learning to work with a chisel correctly

Working with a chisel seems to be not an easy task and quite labor-intensive, which should be learned. For manipulation, force from hand pressure is used. But when there is little strength in the hands, and significant effort is required, in such cases it is appropriate to use a mallet. A mallet is a carpenter's hammer made from hard wood. A chisel paired with a mallet is used only during chiselling. For stripping and trimming procedures, it is permissible to use one chisel.

Before starting work, markings are applied with the device for the shape of the hole, socket or notch. The size of the tool is selected in accordance with the upcoming volume of work and the size of the slotting area. For ease of use, the slotting device is clamped in the left hand, and a mallet is taken in the right. Using a chisel, light taps are applied, which become more and more intensified as they go deeper into the thickness of the material.

Professional carpenters and carvers, as well as home wood craftsmen, always adhere to a certain pattern when working with a device. First of all, a pencil sketch is applied to the wooden blank - a drawing. Then a recess is cut along the contour using a knife blade to wood carving. Only after clearly marking all the contour lines with a knife do they proceed to manipulation with a chisel.

Methods of using the tool are determined taking into account what type of processing should be performed. As noted above, there are 2 most popular:

Manual gain. For example, it is used when cutting the edges of a wooden part.
Strengthening from the impact of another tool (hammer, mallet). It is sometimes required to obtain additional force in the process of gouging recesses or holes in wood.

Tools should be used with utmost precision and care. After all, it’s easy to ruin a product by over-pressing the handle or, conversely, without pressing too hard. One unsuccessful knock with a hammer or one awkward movement - and all the work will be in vain, you will have to start all over again.

The carving technique used by the master depends on the direction in which the chisel is positioned in relation to the surface. Let's look at each in more detail.

Trimming - the master performs work along the grain. If you need to quickly get rid of uneven edges wooden blank use a chisel. The tool is directed with the unsharpened surface of the blade upward. Control is performed with both hands. When cutting, place one hand on the handle, and hold the tool blade with the other so that the direction thumb went towards the handle. This position of the hands creates precise control over the movements of the tool and makes it possible to apply more force. There is a secret here: in order to obtain a perfectly flat and smooth surface as a result, when cutting wood along the grain, the device is turned slightly, and the flat edge should always set the direction of the master’s actions.
Carving on the sides. A variety is considered to be a selection of grooves. To obtain a groove in the shape of a rectangle, use flat fixtures. In the latter, the direct working element has a transverse flat section. The cutting edge is sharpened and can be either straight or oblique. In most cases, the chisel has a sharpened edge on only one side. This means that according to the rules, the sharpened blade of the instrument resembles a razor blade. To make grooves in a circle, semicircular devices are used. Their working element has a cross section like half or a quarter of a circle. It is correct to work with a chisel in a transverse direction to the wood fibers. Hold the tool in the same position as when cutting. The cutting edge should be located at a certain angle to the surface. This is done several times. Then, using the cuts, the entire groove is selected. Such manipulations are repeated repeatedly, slowly moving in depth to the required level.
Trimming the ends (carving perpendicularly) requires a different position of the hands on the tool. One hand grips the handle, and the chisel blade is held between the index finger and thumb of the other hand. This ensures control over the progress of the device and the accuracy of each movement. The part of the blade located closer to the master serves as a guide. The ends of the wooden workpiece are trimmed from the far corner. The tool is directed forward and downward. When you press down on the blade with your thumb and lower the chisel down by the handle, you get a fairly smooth cut. Such manipulations require great effort. Thin sections of wood are made once.

At manual work You don’t need to remove a lot of material at once using a chisel. Excess wood is cleared gradually along the intended line.

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When you can't do without a hammer

For the purpose of gouging and chopping, both chisels and mallets are used at the same time. For both procedures, the mallet is held in one hand and the chisel is positioned perpendicularly in the other hand. When you hit the chisel with a hammer, it rotates simultaneously. Thus ensuring that the end of the tool is always in the right place.

Release special devices, which are intended specifically for chiselling, their name is chisels. Manufacturing companies that have similar products are MATRIX and KIRSCHEN. The handles of such devices necessarily have shockproof properties and high strength, because they will often take a heavy load.

Unlike the gouging procedure, you may encounter some difficulties during the cutting process. With a chisel it is possible to cut out, for example, recesses under door hinges. Any modern door Between the layers of wood there is a layer of hardboard or MDF. Due to this, warping (change in shape) is avoided. But if the wood is not dried enough, even this measure will not save.

The loops will have to be slightly seated. To set the seating depth of the loops, the material is cut along the direction of the fibers by hitting the chisel with a hammer. Each specialist chooses the direction for cutting independently, focusing on personal convenience, from himself or to himself. The chisel is held as carefully and accurately as possible, so as not to spoil the material and not to injure yourself.

When they come closer to the marking, they try to make the chisel spring back after knocking. Why are hammer blows performed with a drawbar? When selecting wood at the edges of the markings, do not use a mallet; they work manually, adding a little more effort to remove excess material.

Important: when the wood has flaws (knotiness, curling - random arrangement of fibers), not very deep notches are made in such defective places.

Sharpening straight chisels

Sharpening of straight chisels is carried out on a whetstone, a water sharpener or a grinding wheel with periodic cooling in water. To begin with, install a suitable abrasive wheel on the sharpener and determine the desired sharpening angle of the blade. The stop and the sharpening platform are fixed so that there are no vibrations or even slight displacements.

The basis of correct sharpening is chamfering (Fig. 9, A). The chamfer must be sharpened evenly, in one plane and across the entire width. Therefore, the chisel blade is smoothly moved from left to right and back (Fig. 9, b).

The end of the blade to be ground should not be sharpened immediately. At high speeds of the grinding wheel, it is difficult to ensure that the end of the blade does not become burnt. The appearance of a tarnished color is a sure sign that the instrument is damaged. In this case, the burnt area of the damaged instrument is removed with a sharpener and sharpened again.

When sharpening flat chisels, as well as jambs, you need to pay attention to the correct chamfering. The chamfer of the chisel can be not only the usual single, but also double, and even double-sided (Fig. 9, c – d). The double chamfer is made on the oval edge of the grinding wheel, making it slightly concave. Its length is 2.5–3 times greater than the thickness of the canvas, if steel good quality. For weak metal, the chamfers are made shorter, that is, in two thicknesses. This will require more effort to cut the material, but the edge will last longer. The second chamfer is sharpened on the flat side of a grinding wheel, a disk with a diamond mandrel, or on fine-grained whetstones and finished on a felt wheel or whetstone. A double chamfer is mainly made on chisels used for precision work - they cut only with hand force, without hitting a mallet. In the second option, a single chamfer from the heel to the cutting edge forms a flat surface. Grind it down on the sides of the grinding wheel and finish it according to the previous version. A single bevel can be slightly shorter and stiffer. This gives it greater reliability in cutting hard, transverse layers and knots that occur when you have to work with a blow with a mallet.

Sometimes a novice carver, due to inexperience, fills up the sharpening chamfer without creating a heel (Fig. 9, e), which is a stop for the cutter to exit the wood mass, and its entry must be made by raising the handle high, that is, at a greater angle than with a flat chamfer. This creates unnecessary resistance of the material and significant penetration of the tool into the depth of the workpiece, which is not always desirable.

The blade should be brought to the desired sharpness manually, using a hard block. The chisel is moved along the block with the entire ground plane (chamfer), the angle of its inclination does not increase (Fig. 9, and). It is not worth raising the handle of the chisel during final sharpening, that is, increasing the sharpening angle, as this will reduce the cutting quality of the tool. In the same way, you cannot make the angle too shallow (Fig. 9, h).

Rice. 9. Sharpening chisels: A– chamfering on straight chisels; b– position of a straight chisel when sharpening on a grinding wheel; V– single chamfer; G– double chamfer; d– double-sided chamfer; e– oval chamfer; and– position of a straight chisel when sharpening on a whetstone; h– incorrect inclination of chisels when sharpening; And– chamfering on semicircular and sloping chisels; To– chamfering on corner chisels; l– filling board for profile chisels.

The main sign of good sharpening is the appearance of a narrow bend of the blade strip onto the front side - a burr. After the burr appears, the chisel is turned to the front side, which is also ground. After this, it is necessary to do several repeated light sandings on both sides of the blade. Grinding is carried out until the burr disappears.

After this, the final adjustment of the chisel is made on a thick felt circle using a filling paste, which is evenly rubbed into the felt circle around the entire circumference. The chisel can also be edited on a dressing board.

A well-sharpened chisel does not require frequent editing in the future. A chisel, sharpened at an angle of 15–20°, is used only as a cutting tool. This chisel cannot be used as a scraper, scraper or under a mallet. Improper handling will damage the blade. A chisel intended for working with a mallet or for removing a large mass of wood should have a sharpening angle of 20–25°.

After sharpening, try making several cuts on the block along and across the grain. A well-sharpened cutting edge easily enters the wood, leaving a shiny, scratch-free cut.

From the book Artistic processing metal Metalsmithing and blacksmithing works author Melnikov Ilya

Sharpening chisels on a machine manually When performing a chopping operation, the tools must be sharply sharpened, since the use of a dull chisel leads to it sliding off the surface being chopped off; when working with such a tool, a person gets tired and loses correctness

From the book Scythe, Scythe... author Rodionov N.N.

From the book Home handyman author Onishchenko Vladimir

Sharpening chisels on a machine by hand The chisel used for cutting must be sharply sharpened; Using a dull chisel leads to it sliding off the surface being cut; the person working with such a tool gets tired and loses the correct blow. Sharpening chisels and

From the book Engraving works[Techniques, techniques, products] author Podolsky Yuri Fedorovich

Sharpening Knives of planing tools must be sharpened. There are three types of sharpening a knife, depending on the wear of the chamfer and dullness of the blade. The first type of sharpening is used in cases where it is necessary to restore the chamfer of the knife or when the blade has chipped

From the book Wood Carving [Techniques, techniques, products] author Podolsky Yuri Fedorovich

From the book Handbook of Carpentry Masters author Serikova Galina Alekseevna

Sharpening and straightening the tool The whole secret of making a good cutting tool lies in two main factors: proper sharpening and the right type of steel, which retains this sharpness for a long time, does not wrinkle or crumble when working with any wood.

From the book How to become a hairdresser author Lukovkina Aurika

Sharpening knives Strict requirements are also imposed on knife sharpening. You need to sharpen it on both sides, keeping the entire plane on the block, but, however, placing emphasis on the blade. And only with subsequent adjustments on the touchstone or filling board can you allow a small, 0.5–1 mm,

From the author's book

Sharpening profile chisels Rough sharpening and chamfering of semicircular and sloping chisels is usually done on a grinding wheel (Fig. 9, i). Due to the radius section of the blade, it is necessary to carefully monitor the uniform turning of the entire surface of the chamfer - a chisel