In this article we will consider the topic of manufacturing classic furniture Almost all apartments and houses - a chair with your own hands. This solid wood chair with armrests will not be bulky and best use such products are tableware. Following these instructions, you can make it at home.

The production of the chair will take place in several stages. All of them will be presented below and you can easily make it in a few evenings if you have the tools and materials, because all the schemes will be presented below. There will be no ready-made drawings in this article, since everything is done from improvised means: from boards, plywood bars, which are available.

Frame

Let's call this stage- chair frame.

Of course, almost the entire skeleton will be covered with foam rubber and fabric. Only part of the legs will remain visible.

The back legs are the most important parts of a wooden chair because you need to make them at some angle.

Without thinking for a long time, to make the back part of the chair structure we took ordinary dining chair, which was available, although it did not have a seat. But he was well suited for the role of template. You can take some old grandma's chair.

Markings were made on a 50x150 board.

Be sure to mark the level of the seat of the chair, make it the same as for the chair. In this case it was approximately 410 mm from the floor.

For sawing out homemade legs fireplace chair use a jigsaw.

Then we used the finished part as a template to make three more legs, because we are making two chairs at once with our own hands from scrap materials.

The front legs will be straight and square section- 55x55 mm. To obtain such a cross-section, you can glue the boards together and then saw them to the required size. We glued 2 pairs of 2 boards, 120 mm wide and 30 mm thick.

There is no glue between boards 2 and 3

Note. A chair with a solid structure is called a frame chair.

While the front legs were drying, we finished assembling the back frame - we made the upper part, which upper part has a slight rounding. Then we made the rear crossbar of the seat support.

What if you try to make something out of furniture with your own hands? Interesting? Let's start by making furniture that doesn't require a frame, for example from a bean bag chair (or, as it is also called, a pear chair).How to make a beanbag chair with your own hands at home? The key to an excellent result of your work is to do it right from the start make patterns and find good filler. You select the fabric (color, texture) to your taste, not forgetting the harmony of the future pear-shaped product with the rest of the furniture in the house.

The most important advantage of this bean bags self made the fact that it itself is light and freely takes the shape of the body of a person who wishes to rest on it. Therefore, it is very comfortable. You can even lie down on it, fluffing it up like a pillow. People who spend a lot of time “on their feet”, or sitting for hours in the office, perfectly relax and rest their back muscles when they sit in bean bag chairs. And what delight this furniture causes in children! Be sure to take your child as an assistant when you start making a bean bag chair with your own hands.

The next important point is filler. The most popular of them now is polystyrene chips, the granules of which are 1.5-5 mm. If you use it as a filler, then you will never sit in a “cold” chair. This applies specifically to crumbs, and not to foam plates.

As an option, order crumbs from an online store (cheap and fast). And with the rest you can fill decorative pillows and soft children's toys.

It will be great fill chair bags not with traditional polystyrene foam, but, for example, with hay soaked in the aroma of hot summer or some fragrant grass. You just need to keep in mind that such fillers love rooms without high humidity. This filling is changed every 6-12 months if products made from it are used a lot and often. Therefore, the bag itself should be easily removable to replace the filler.

One of the covers that makes up a bean bag chair (or pear chair), should be made of raincoat fabric or thick mattress fabric, the second cover should be made from beautiful furniture fabric or jeans, suede, faux leather and even velvet. You should not take expensive fabric for the outer cover, since with cheaper fabric the cover can be changed as much as you like, and each time you will have a “new” chair. So it’s worth thinking about whether we need to pay in online stores for the super abrasion-resistant fabric they advertise, if we have the option of inexpensive, but different and always “fresh” covers?

A strong metal zipper 50-60 cm long is usually placed on the outer cover of the beanbag chair. Best place its location is at the bottom of the chair, otherwise it may break if there is excessive load on the chair. If you don't like the zipper, sew on a few buttons.

By turning on your imagination, you can vary chair bag from a very large pillow to a comfortable mattress; it can be like a chair with a back, if you arrange the pillow in a triangle, and a comfortable mattress.

Before you begin directly working on the manufacture of the product ( upholstered furniture), we recommend doing small pattern on paper to scale to check if everything fits.

The seams on the covers must be strong, the same as on jeans, using reinforced threads in order to withstand heavy loads.

We sew a chair bag (pear chair, cushion chair) with your own hands . Master class with step by step photo instructions and pattern.

Comfortable frameless upholstered furniture, made by yourself. Master class on making a beanbag chair.
Next article.

The chair is good place both for work and for leisure. Before you make a chair with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with its models, since there are a large number of chairs. For some models of armchairs, willow or rattan is needed, since, being presented in other materials, they lose their charm. This piece of furniture can also be made of metal - forged rocking chairs look like jewelry in the interior.

Chair drawing.

DIY chair - wooden chair

Solid wood furniture is a symbol of solidity and reliability, even if it is lattice models. Making a chair from timber does not take much time, and it can serve for many years without needing restoration. To make it you will need:

• medium thickness timber;
• plywood;
• wood glue;
• primer;
• stain;
• furniture dowel;
• self-tapping screws;
• sandpaper 3 types;
• Bulgarian;
• screwdriver;
• hand drill;
• plane;
• clamps;
• sponge or foam rubber;
• brushes;
• pencil or marker;
• square;
• dye.

Tools for making a chair.

Beam thickness of great importance does not have one, but when purchasing you need to pay attention to a single cross-section, which simplifies the work and shows the quality of the workpiece.

Ideally, all workpieces should be of the same thickness and with good linearity.

If one of the parts is twisted, this will greatly affect the integrity of the product; it may warp or crack during operation.

How to make a chair - the manufacturing process

The timber is sawn into the required number of cross bars and supporting additional seat cross bars. Availability allows you to work well and quickly circular saw. The edges of the resulting bars are marked and drilled at the same distance through holes. The distance from these future fastenings to the edge of the block must be at least 25 mm, otherwise a chair made with your own hands will not be strong enough. A drill stand will help you maintain exactly all the parameters for many holes, on which you can set parameters such as the perpendicularity of the holes, their sizes and distances.

Before making a chair, one more safety concern is required - to treat the ends and surface of the slats to prevent the appearance of splinters during operation.

In this case, all existing ribs are rounded using a grinder or plane. When the longitudinal planks are ready, the remains of the timber are divided into squares using a circular saw, which will be used to separate the planks from each other in the structure.

Assembly diagram garden chair.

Holes are also drilled in them, coinciding with those already existing on the finished bars; they need to be sanded and the ribs smoothed. Each master will determine the number of long bars and squares for himself, based on the size of the chair and the thickness of the bar.

Dowel fastenings are inserted into the holes, a few drops of glue are added, after which each block on both sides is connected to a pair of cubes. The workpieces are aligned along the edges by attaching a lath, then left to dry, tightened with clamps. After drying, the wood is treated with stain. You can thread a rope through the holes on the parts and hang the painted parts to dry. Varnishing occurs in the same way.

To make a chair with your own hands, the back and seat for the chair are cut out of plywood. They are screwed together using a pair of screws on the right and left. Dowels can add additional strength if you drill holes for them and glue them first before use. All parts are painted in the desired color and, after drying, varnished. All that remains is to complete the final assembly of the body using bushings and screw the seat. This unusual shape a bright and catchy chair complements the interior well.

DIY easy garden chair

Not everyone likes it plastic chairs, which are now widely used to decorate recreation areas in the country or in the garden. Light garden chairs made of wood look more appropriate on the site, and their production does not take much time. Before making a chair, you need to take into account that its design should be light and comfortable; it is best to prefer a folding chair. This will allow you to quickly move the furniture under the roof in case of rain, because even well-treated wood should not be exposed to moisture.

Connection diagram for chair legs.

The wood to make a chair must be chosen from hardwoods such as beech, walnut or oak. Pine, cedar, larch or aspen are also less susceptible to rotting, but pine is not resistant to mechanical stress and large dents remain on the surface. The boards should be well dried or dried under a canopy before starting work. The following materials and tools will be needed:

• circular saw;
• milling cutter;
• hacksaw;
• plane;
• screwdriver;
• drill;
• clamps;
• sander;
• roulette;
• square;
• pencil;
• sandpaper;
• screws or self-tapping screws;
• wood glue;
• drying oil or furniture varnish;
• stain.

Preparation and assembly of parts

A garden chair will require two back legs and two front legs, with the back legs being longer. You need to cut out 2 supports for the armrests, a backrest and a jumper. For the rear pair of legs, armrests, backrest and seat, boards selected in color and texture are glued together until the desired width is obtained. To properly glue the wood, grooves for dowels are selected at the ends. Paired parts can be cut simultaneously by holding two boards together with clamps.

Drawing of a rocking chair.

The parts are then adjusted to size using a router or plane. When cutting out the back, the glue seam, if present, should be placed in the middle of the part. The upper edge is rounded, and after that you can begin assembling the garden chair, adjusting other elements as needed.

The rear legs are attached to the back with screws and reinforced with glue. To prevent the workpieces from cracking during assembly, holes for fastenings can be drilled in advance. The strength of the assembled seat will depend on the correct placement of the boards on it. They should lie in the direction from one leg to the other. The front legs are also screwed onto screws or self-tapping screws, reinforced with glue.

The reliability and stability of the chair is given by the leg - a jumper located between the front legs. They attach it in the same way as everything else, using glue and screws. Then the armrests and the support for them running behind the back of the chair are attached.

The heads of all screws used for fastening should be recessed flush with the surface, and then closed with special plugs. The wood of the finished chair is impregnated with hot drying oil or stain, dried, and varnished in several layers. You can opt for a special furniture varnish, but the most durable coating is found in parquet or yacht varieties.

Design for rocking chair

This chair can be used both in the garden and at home. By expanding the seat, it is possible to make not a chair, but a whole bench that can accommodate several people. For production you will need:

Chair seat assembly diagram.

• electric jigsaw;
• sander;
• wood drills of different diameters;
• screwdriver;
• square;
• roulette;
• pencil;
• plywood;
• self-tapping screws;
• confirmations;
• slats.

If a rocking chair is made by hand from start to finish, it is better to use high-quality materials so as not to spoil the work.

Making a rocking chair

The sides of the chair with a rounded bottom are cut out according to the developed pattern first. They must be completely identical, and there should be no protruding corners on their lower part. Then the timber for the seat and back is cut, the quantity and length of which must be calculated separately for each model. The surface of each block is sanded and polished, and the corners are smoothed. If you plan to use the chair outdoors, the ends of the boards need to be given special attention. They are varnished at least 3 times, since it is there that the wood is especially loose and needs protection from atmospheric influences. To protect the street and garden furniture, the ends are impregnated several times with hot drying oil, and the fibers are flattened with a hammer.

The sidewalls are pulled together to the required size using several drawbars, drilling through the sidewalls. Then holes are drilled at the ends for fastening the bars. The bars themselves are also drilled in advance to avoid cracks during operation. It is more convenient to fasten the bars not between the sidewalls, but on top, slightly going beyond the contour. This rocking chair has more space and looks neater. Each screw should then be coated with an antiseptic and a plug placed on top. After this it is done finishing products with waterproof types of varnish, with each layer drying for at least 12 hours. Place at least 3 layers, coat with a thick layer, trying not to leave gaps. Only after this can the rocking chair be considered ready.

How to make a chair with your own hands.

There is no doubt - you can buy anything now. Just show your imagination, and they will offer you a lot - both in stores and on the Internet. But sometimes finances don’t allow it, sometimes it’s easier to use scrap materials (at the dacha, for example), and sometimes you’re just itching to do the hunt yourself. It is for such cases that this collection was created.

Let's see how you can do it yourself frameless furniture, namely, a beanbag chair.
The budget for one chair is 40 American rubles.


This is a filler - polystyrene balls

Cut the fabric - (1.4 * 2.5) for the cover for the filling and the same amount for the cover of the chair.


Stitched inner cover for filling.


Already with filler inside.


First try.

The outer cover is already sewn. Ready. The most difficult thing was to collect all the balls because the static voltage scatters them everywhere... I collected them with a vacuum cleaner.
Here's the pattern if anyone needs it:

I didn’t photograph the entire work process in detail (there’s never time for that)), but here are the main stages. I wanted to make exactly the chair. Stable and strong. I imagined how several kids would jump along it at once (and I was right))).


So, first, such a “sandwich” was made in the shape of a semicircle: chipboard - between them there are bars - chipboard. The result is a base about 10 cm thick. This is so that the walls can be secured. For the same purpose vertical racks. Front wall - plywood; the back is hardboard (it bends so well))). I first drew the curve of the back by eye on the remains of the wallpaper; the back is slightly higher at the back. Base on 4 legs made from old Pauline wooden cubes. Polina fell in love with the chair already at this stage)) Here you can see that I started gluing cardboard, filling the interior space of the chair. Not all layers are solid, most are just glued pieces, there are gaps here and there between them, this does not matter. First I glued it on PVA. But she soon abandoned it, because... The cardboard swells like a wet wafer and becomes deformed, so I had to put a weight on top and wait for it to dry... It was long and inconvenient, so after several layers I switched to wood glue. Great item in every way.


The photo shows how the walls turned out. As I worked and at the end, I leveled them with a knife. Everything is so easy to cut))


Next is foam rubber + Moment Gel glue.
And a case. (This was the best part)) Done.
The chair turned out to be very heavy. But I consider this a plus - at least it won’t roll over)) And of course the fabric... These are just some leftovers that were found at home. The fabric on the armrests, even though it is glued with non-woven fabric, cannot count on a long life. But we wanted temporary furniture that we wouldn’t mind throwing away. (In fact, it turned out to be a pity to throw it away... The kids tore the fabric on both the armrests and the pillow, well... my fault - I really wanted to use this particular fabric. But it’s a pity to throw it away - the chair itself is simply indestructible!)

Well, now what was promised




This is what gives the product rigidity - these ribs


we continue to make the back, here we use three-layer cardboard, usually such cardboard is boxes from refrigerators or cigarettes (such boxes are huge 1.20 m by 80 cm in height), even 5-layer cardboard comes from cigarettes, on my chair the bottom and top shelf By the way, they were made from such cardboard; its width is 3-3.5 cm somewhere.)


but the bends are covered with thinner cardboard than usual cardboard boxes. We are assembling the chair, by the way, I glued my chair together glue gun and some other wood glue, I don’t remember, it was a long time ago.
We finish the sides, well, it’s almost ready, all that’s left is to paint.

Plastic bottles are an excellent material for creativity and improvised means to solve many problems. Whatever they make of them. And a variety of boxes, scoops, buckets, brooches, and curtains. They are laid instead of pipes in dachas, they are used to decorate flower beds, etc. My son and I decided to make an armchair, since it seemed to us that there was clearly not enough such furniture in the decor of our room. We now understand that we got a little carried away, not taking into account the modest dimensions of our room, but five months ago we began to enthusiastically collect plastic bottles.

As we accumulated them, we cut them accordingly and put them into “blocks” of two pieces. It looked like this: they cut off the neck of one bottle and, turning it over, installed it in bottom part. Then the second bottle was sent neck to neck.

The result was these blanks for the future chair, which are much more compact and convenient to store than the bottles themselves.


In total, our chair needed about ninety two-liter plastic bottles. Along the way, we stocked up on tape and stretch film.
When we had enough blocks, we started assembling. It will not be possible to clearly demonstrate this process, since at the time of writing the material the chair was already assembled, but I will try to simply tell you. Moreover, there is nothing complicated about it, and your imagination can tell you completely different, more interesting forms.
For the seat, we first prepared, based on the existing ones, larger blocks, tightly wrapping each four “bottles” out of sixteen with tape. Then, using the same tape, we combined the resulting four enlarged blocks into one.
Next came the turn of the “sides” and the back. They are made from the same single modules, only higher - not from two, but from three and five bottles. The extension scheme is quite simple. We cut off the bottom from the top bottle and install it inside, as we did with the neck before. After this, we again place the next bottle upside down. And so on…
By the way, when testing the seat for strength, we discovered that the blocks inside were diverging. It was this moment that gave us the idea of ​​stretch film. However, I think that in this case it was possible to get by with tape. But we had the film, and therefore we swaddled the base blocks with it.
We carefully taped the finished sides and back to the seat and, unable to resist the temptation, completely covered the resulting structure with stretch film. And this is what we got in the end.

This is the basis, so to speak. The chair, of course, is a bit hard and needs improvement. You can “upholster” it and sew a cover on it. My chair is currently covered with a blanket and is waiting to be moved to the country, but my son and I are thinking about a bar counter made of plastic bottles for the kitchen. And what? It may very well be

We will dance from the stove, that is, from the foam rubber, which in this case is our basis. It’s better to draw on paper, but I’ll show you on foam rubber for clarity.


Here is a piece 50cm by 50cm. Divide it in half cross by cross. 10 cm indentation for backrest tilt.
Cut it out like this. Can be cut smoothly with a regular knife(spicy).


My radius is 6.5cm. In general, you need to find something round with a diameter of 13 cm. And applying it to outline an arc.
Using a knife, cut it exactly as shown in the picture. And we trim the rest with scissors. It turns out a little rough, but nothing. The rest will be smoothed out by the batting. We got the following details.


We glue them in a row. I apply the glue with a spray bottle. At home, of course, this is a problem. Using a brush is bad, a lot of glue will be wasted, and there will be seals from greasy strokes when it dries. I think a short-haired roller is the best best option will be here.
Here are the locations for future seams. They need to be drawn on the foam rubber immediately and the approximate size of the blanks should be measured from them.

You need to make a slot of about 4cm in the connection between the back and seat. For retraction.
Like this. Velcro will be tucked into the cut when putting on the cover, so we glue half of it inside
Here's a set of cuts. It makes no sense for me to indicate the dimensions that turned out. They will be a little different for everyone. It is important to show the principle.


Parts A and B are the sides. They are larger than the foam rubber pattern by 8mm along the contour. Our seam will be 10mm, + will give the thickness of the batting. This is so that the cover is tight, not loose. C - seat, D - back. Strip E is a retractor that we will insert into the cut with Velcro sewn onto it. F and G - back. G is wider because it is sewn with release and covers the zipper.
Here is a diagram of how to sew the back. (I’ll try to draw it more correctly later). The seams are red and blue (so as not to merge. I couldn’t immediately determine the dimensions of parts F and G, so I cut out the parts with some margin, wrote down the size and trimmed them in place. First, after completing the knot with the zipper, I cut off the excess to fit the width, then subtracted from the cut strips I already wrote down the size for the next cut from the original blank, but if you succeed, the same parsley was made in length, then trimmed when it was almost sewn.
Retraction unit. (below) Everything is clear here.
The width of parts C and D is 8mm larger at the edges than the width of the foam rubber. I sew at 10mm. When sewing, it is advisable to pin the cut with pins, having previously placed marks on the locations of the transverse seams. Especially if the car is not non-stop. The contour is large - the error accumulates.
The cover is put on starting from filling the retractor. Turn it inside out, pressing down the foam. It’s easier to do it with two people, it’s not convenient for one person.

Sitting comfortably in this chair, you can safely say that you are sitting in your own library. Indeed, such a chair is a mobile mini-library and is an ideal furniture option for book lovers. Isn't it a great idea to combine a chair and bookshelf into a single furniture module! There are shelves for storing books and a place for reading them at the same time.
There are enough shelves to accommodate a large number of books and magazines. Such furniture - ideal option For small rooms. But you are unlikely to buy such a mini-library chair anywhere, but you can make it yourself if you use the advice of the German magazine Selber Machen. It is recommended to make all the parts of the chair from 16 mm MDF boards. Instead of MDF board, multilayer plywood is quite suitable for this purpose. The dimensions of all parts of the chair are shown in the figure.

Before assembling, I sand the parts. Particular care should be taken to process the edges in the cutting areas. Then all surfaces of the parts should be covered with two layers of furniture enamel. The color can be chosen independently and optionally, as shown in the picture, in dark colors.
The sequence of assembling the chair is shown in the figure.


For the seat, armrests and interior lining you will need foam rubber and furniture upholstery fabric. The color of the fabric should be in harmony with the color of the enamel used to paint the chair.

Chair - bed (without frame)
To make 1 bed chair you will need 2 sheets of foam rubber 10 cm wide, size 100 cm by 200 cm. Furniture fabric - 3 meters, 7 locks - zippers of 80 cm each, reinforced threads, a little PVA glue to glue the foam between layers. Sewing machine, the ability to stitch, the desire to create. If you sew 3 chairs, it takes 5 sheets of foam rubber.

The chair consists of 4 parts
Cutting foam rubber into blanks
. square 80cm x 80cm - 2 pcs
. rectangle 80cm x 60cm - 2 pcs
. rectangle 80cm x 20cm - 2 pcs
. rectangle 80cm x 30cm - 2 pcs (see photo pink)



We glue 2 layers of 10 cm foam rubber of each part together. All parts become 20 cm high.
Then we cut out the furniture fabric according to the same principle as foam rubber (given without seam allowances).
The seams are 1-1.5 cm.
1 piece
1.1. square 80cm x 80cm - 2 pcs
1.2. rectangle 20 cm x 160 cm - 3 pcs
We fold two parts 1.3 in half and sew the locks towards each other.


The result is a prefabricated part 20 cm x 160 cm. We sew together sides a) and b) and, using the suitcase principle, we assemble a square. Don’t forget to sew the handles down to make it easier to carry the chair, just don’t rush to insert the foam. It must be inserted when the entire cover is sewn and assembled completely. Using the same principle, we cut and sew parts 2,3,4.
An important fact: initially, consider the principle by which you will connect the parts together, so that there are no problems later. For those who know how to sew, I suggest a sewn-in option, that is, when connecting part 1.1 with part 1.2


On both sides of the inside, sew a double strip of fabric to cover almost the entire width of the chair, less if possible.
The smaller the gap, the tighter the parts will then be assembled into the chair.
Or you can stitch a double stripe at the top, as shown in the photo


When all 4 parts of the chair are sewn, just look carefully at the principle and joints in the photo.


We sew the 2nd part of the chair
2.1. rectangle 80cm x 60cm - 2 pcs
2.2 rectangle 20 cm x 120 cm - 1 piece
2.3. rectangle 20 cm x 160 cm - 2 pcs
3 chair detail
rectangle 80(+6cm bend under the lock)cm x 60cm - 1 piece
square 20cm x 20 c m - 4 pcs
The locks for this part can be cut to suit your needs. I did not sew two locks into one chair and sewed one - 80 cm, but then, when I inserted the foam rubber, there was a big problem, I even broke the lock and tore the side of the part a little. To avoid such problems, do not complicate life, sew in two locks. Try to keep the locks as close to each other as possible at the “meeting” junction.
4 chair detail
pay attention! — before inserting this part into the case, I covered it thin layer foam rubber and silk lining material (not necessarily new) just 80 cm wide and hand-sewn. Since on this part the lock is sewn only on the bottom with a width of 80 cm and it is very difficult to insert, and when covered with silk the foam rubber “slips” inside.
rectangle 20cm x 30cm - 2 pcs
rectangle 20cm x 80cm - 2 pcs
rectangle 80cm x 78cm - 1 piece

4 The chair part can be sewn separately for the “Sofa corner”


lay out and sleep.


And when 3 chairs are sewn, fantasize:



There is an assumption that in the future the foam rubber on the front of the seats may sag, I think this can be fixed: you can turn the foam rubber in the other direction, or you can add thin layers of foam rubber.
Time will show. I wish you success, add your imagination. Use your material capabilities and then you can use furniture fabric “more coolly”: Leather, fur, combining smooth with checkered fabric, etc.
When sewing parts for internal seams, I used an overlog, but it can be processed with edging. This will add rigidity. Look how this is done on many bags and school bags.

And now quite necessary information for craftsmen who make furniture with their own hands is the ergonomics of the chair. Everyone has long known that making homemade products, including furniture, is not at all difficult. It is important that it is comfortable to use. This is where the science of ergonomics comes in handy.


Ergonomic dimensions of the chair.
Chair size chart developed by the Swedish Furniture Institute.
Letter Description Size
A
Seat height to edge 45 cm
B
Seat height 3 cm less A
C
Seat tilt 3 cm
D
Seat depth 42 cm
E
Seat width min. 40 cm
G
Back to edge max. 42 (28-33) cm
H
Back to bottom edge 13 (18) cm
I
Back height min 15 cm
J
Backrest tilt 18′
K
Projection point 18 cm
O
Distance between armrests 48 cm
P
Armrest height 23 cm
Q
Armrest length 30 cm
R
Armrest width min. 5 cm
T
Distance between edge and armrest min. 10 cm
U
Free space under seat max. 60′
X
Seat-back angle 103′

Not only craftsmen they know how to make exclusive, comfortable furniture from scrap materials. The advantage of such an activity is obvious - it is the opportunity to translate into reality the most daring ideas for diversifying the living space. An additional bonus is the low cost of making homemade soft chairs with your own hands. Following the advice of designers, you can make a soft chair for a pleasant time in own home. At home, you can exactly repeat all the stages of factory production of this modern and convenient attribute for decorating a children's or living room. On the Internet you can find both the simplest and most complex schemes.

The first step in the manufacture of home upholstered furniture is the choice of fabric for external design soft parts of the structure. Each master selects upholstery depending on physical properties and price aspects and features that different drawings have. Let's look at the most common fabrics for decorating chairs in our time:

• velor – velvety to the touch, gives the furniture a certain charm;

Velor upholstery

• flog is a distant analogue of velor, easy to clean, so designers use it to decorate children's upholstered furniture;

Upholstered flog

• chenille - a fabric based on a combination of natural and synthetic fibers, has particular wear resistance (a well-thought-out structure prevents the formation of pilling);

Chinille in upholstery

• jacquard - the upholstery is considered durable, but over time the loops turn into puffs;
• natural tapestry is the most expensive and beautiful view upholstery fabrics;

Upholstered jacquard

• artificial suede is a universal option for chairs in a sunny room, resistant to UV rays and easy to clean;

Faux suede upholstery

• leatherette is a durable material that allows you to play with decorative embossing.

Leatherette upholstery

Material, fittings, tools for frame attributes

Creating a frame chair from scratch presents some difficulties. But the finished product will have a more respectable appearance. You can verify this by looking at the photo. finished products home craftsmen. You can also use an old Soviet “grandmother’s” chair for the base.

To make a simple frame for an upholstered chair, you need to select durable sheets of 20 mm plywood for cutting out parts yourself. A standard set of repair tools with an electric drill, a jigsaw, a steel ruler, emery cloth, metal rims, and masking tape, pencil, tape measure, thin nails, screws, wood glue, stain, glossy paint. For upholstery you need: artificial leather or fabric, foam rubber (filler).

Step-by-step creation of upholstered furniture with a wooden base

1. If you don’t know how to make a drawing for the base, then look for ready-made diagrams on the Internet. As a rule, they are transferred to a cardboard template with a pencil. Only after this they begin to perform the operations of the described algorithm. This will help you save on excess material, or vice versa – avoid purchasing missing parts.
2. Using a cardboard template, future constituent elements are cut out from plywood sheets:

• banana-shaped sidewalls;
• cross bars.

It is important to determine the required angles of inclination, bending and dimensions of the future frame. A photo of the finished chair, created according to your design, will help with this.

1. The next stage is surface treatment wooden parts by stripping and grinding. The ends are worked with special care to improve the quality of the work done. These parts are first impregnated with heated drying oil and only then bends are formed with a hammer, if they are provided for in the sketch. Each component element is cut out with an electric jigsaw.
2. The sidewalls are painted or treated with varnish-stain. The ends of the side parts are reinforced with metal rims.
3. The further course of action is related to the covering of the frame. Using an electric drill they do required holes. The rims are fixed with screws.
4. First, the back part of the back is covered with artificial leather or fabric, then the remaining fragments of the structure, incl. and seats.
5. The upholstery material is secured with wallpaper nails, which are characterized by large heads. In the back of the frame chair, the upholstery is fixed along the edge, along the transverse parts to better cover the slats.

Pattern round chair Wooden frame We cover the frame with fiberboard cardboard

Experienced furniture makers recommend additionally treating the fastening points with wood glue. This move is needed to improve durability created furniture with your own hands.

Secrets of reliable upholstery: how to sew

The process of stretching the upholstery of soft chairs has its own nuances:

1. Foam rubber is cut to the size of the seat (average thickness - 5 cm). The part is glued to the surface of the plywood sheet.
2. Horizontal and vertical fabric straps are attached to the back construction stapler. Similar belts are added to the armrests and sides from the inside along the shape.
3. A piece is cut from a piece of foam rubber 0.1 cm thick, which will be larger in size than the area of ​​the seat (the difference is 4-5 cm). Take a piece of synthetic padding fabric of a similar size with an elongated front part and fasten it with your own hands.
4. After the manipulations have been completed, the upholstery is covered furniture fabric. Using a stapler, the textiles are secured to all corners of the cover and the synthetic foam layer to the frame of the chair seat.
5. The sides and armrests are also covered with padding polyester, secured with aerosol glue over the entire surface. Only after this the parts are sheathed with fabric, securing the flap along the staples.

We cover the chair with foam rubber. Additionally we put padding polyester