Manual seed seeder. What kind of seeder should there be for carrot harvest? Models, technical specifications and prices - which one is better to buy

Every summer resident and gardener knows how important it is to plant correctly. vegetable crops. This process is labor-intensive, quite expensive in both time and money. After all, it is necessary not only to evenly distribute the planting seeds in the furrows, but also to further thin out the seedlings manually, forming crops. A special seeder, which even in manual mode will be a real help in planting. The article will discuss the nuances of the operation of landing structures, the principle hand assembled the simplest mechanisms, features of operation and the creation of manual machines for more accurate seeding.

Tool requirements

A fully working structure is made from available materials: various recyclable materials, tin cans, plastic bottles. More complex designs It is advisable to use metal sheets only for industrial-scale cultivation of vegetable crops.

A good example of the simplest design for planting is a carrot seeder.

Certain aspects apply to self-made mechanisms for planting vegetables.:

  1. The seeding material must be placed in the soil in a certain amount (per 1 linear meter) and to the required depth.
  2. Seeds should be distributed evenly, without gaps and without damage.
  3. The mechanism ensures straightness of planting rows and row spacing.
  4. After each laying, the grooves should be filled with loose soil.

Sowing small seeds is best done using mini-seeders. Such devices are suitable for growing carrots, onion sets, salad greens, that is, those crops that are quite small in size planting material.

Features of application

The basic principle of operation of the simplest sowing mechanism is to limit the spilling of seeds out. An open box with a double good bottom is used for this procedure. A movable plate is inserted into the formed space.

Grains or seeds are poured into the bottom of the box (upper) with holes slightly larger than the size of the planting material; in the lower tier of the mechanism there are larger holes, they coincide with the top. When pushing in the middle intermediate plate, the holes in the bottoms do not communicate, which means the grains do not spill out. If the valve is moved, the sower will start working again. To avoid thickening of the crops, you should not pour a large number of seeds into the structure at once, rolling them along the mechanism.

Many vegetable growers equip the movable (middle) plate with a spring, which facilitates the operational process.

Using the landing mechanism is very simple. A furrow is marked in the garden bed. They place a homemade seeder on it and move the device forward. The tank begins to rotate - grain or seeds pour out evenly. Then, using an improvised hoe, the plantings are covered with loose soil.

The seeds are fixed in the seeder using a transparent plastic tank. The entire structure can be easily converted for any vegetable crop; for example, in a radish seeder, the holes in the tank must be made smaller in size than in a mechanism for planting corn. It is very easy to make improvised parts using simple materials. For economical and high-quality planting of different vegetable crops, it is necessary to make about 3-4 tanks with holes of different sizes for the seeder.

DIY making

By using a mechanism for planting small seeds, sowing can be accelerated 10 times. As an example of the simplest hand-held device Consider a carrot seeder.

To make it you will need the following materials::

  1. Plastic or metal shaft. You can use a part from a thick-walled pipe.
  2. A wheel made from a tin can (a small bicycle wheel will do).
  3. Bunker made from plastic bottle, container, shampoo container.
  4. Retaining rings designed for the wheel.
  5. Foam rubber.
  6. Transport bracket (1 piece).
  7. Wooden handle.
  8. Screw “M 4” (from 4 to 8 pcs.).
  9. Restrictive rings/clamps (from 2 to 4 pcs.).
  10. Nut “M 4” (from 4 to 8 pcs.).

For high-quality assembly you will need tools: a screwdriver, drills with different diameters, scissors, a drill, a knife.

The process of manufacturing a simple manual seeder takes place in several stages:

Simple design will significantly reduce labor costs. This is how you make a manual seeder with your own hands. The main disadvantage of this mechanism is the limited sowing (only in 1 row) and sowing of only one vegetable crop due to different sizes seeds The problem can be solved by using several replacement cans with different holes.

Much more complicated is a self-made sowing device, with which you can work with seeds different cultures. The main working mechanism in the universal design is the sowing shaft, which is aluminum tube with a diameter of 30 mm. Holes are drilled in three rows of different sizes. Each line is made for one crop.

Precision seeding mechanism

An important task of using seeding structures is to ensure uniform planting. To plant seeds in the ground at a strictly defined distance, manual precision seeding drills are used; these mechanisms are easy to make with your own hands, just like the simplest devices described above.

Design

The device consists of one or more containers with seeds, a frame on wheels, and a control handle. To make such a unit yourself, you will need a turning tool or a drill to drill metal sheets, the thickness of which is approximately 1 or 2 mm, and the diameter is about 5−8 mm.

When planning a connection between a seeder and a walk-behind tractor, it is better to use rigid bolts that are more vibration-resistant instead of rivets. The front wheels are designed to form furrows in the beds, where the seeds fall from the hopper. Using the rear wheels, the resulting holes are filled with loose soil.

The basis of the precision seeding design consists of a rectangular metal frame. Containers are attached along the edges into which seeds are loaded. It is recommended to buy the blocks necessary for turning the shaft separately, since it is very difficult to make them yourself without special skills and tools. For example, containers that are used in conventional manual seeders or in conjunction with walk-behind tractors are perfect.

The precision seed drill is driven by reversible wheels, which also adjust the height of the head, designed to get the seeds into the ground. Each container must be secured separately. The wheels are connected on a springy and rigid base.

The sowing unit is a container in which the seeds are placed. When the seeder is dragged along the ground, a mechanical wheel with blades, also located in the container, is activated. At the end of the container there is a narrow slot where only one unit of planting material can be placed, so seeding is uniform and very economical. The size of the hole can be changed to accommodate seeds of different sizes.

Operating principle

When working with a manual precision seeder, first do the assembly, move the handle to working position, put the rear wheel on the axle. The marker can be adjusted if necessary. Depending on the crop being sown, a disc of a certain size is installed in the hopper. The depth of the chalk is adjusted to the size of the seeds.

This device forms the required depth of the holes. When the seeder is put into action, the front wheel of the structure begins to spin; with the help of a belt drive, the rotational movement is transmitted to the disk, which captures the seeds from the hopper.

Using a marker, smooth planting rows are formed. It is often recommended to carry out the first sowing along a certain contour for a more uniform distribution.

DIY making

The bunker container must be made of plastic. This makes it easier to visually control the number of seeds poured. Take the following components:

  1. A bolt that will be used as an axis on which the seed-filled container will rotate.
  2. A plastic pipe equal in length to the dimensions (depth) of the bunker. Steel pipe of the same length.
  3. Aluminum wire.
  4. Washers for fixing the pipe.

The assembly is step by step process. Let's describe the algorithm:

  1. In the center of the selected plastic can you need to drill through hole. The cover is removed and an additional hole in the form of a rectangle (through) is made in the side wall. The hopper will be filled with seeds through it.
  2. Place in the center of the jar plastic pipe so that the seed does not spill out. It is installed steel pipe, the bolt and nut are screwed in. The rotation mechanism is ready.
  3. On the side of the bunker, points for holes are marked at a distance of 30 mm. They are then pierced with a hot nail. The seeds should fit into the holes.
  4. They make a handle. IN wooden handle a through hole is drilled at the end. Using a bolt and nut, attach the handle to the seeder.
  5. To automate the process, a device is made from an iron sheet to fill planting holes with seeds.
  6. The workpiece is attached to the handle above the seed hopper.

The device is ready. Before starting sowing work, it is recommended to prepare the site and loosen the hardened soil.

Range of modern seeders

If self-production landing unit causes difficulties, it is recommended to purchase it immediately ready-made designs. The assortment on the market is quite large. The American model of precision seeding “1001 - B” is equipped with 6 replaceable discs. With such a seeder you can plant 28 types of vegetable crops. Using the adjusting screw, you can change the planting depth.

Newtechagro seeders are single-row types. Designed for sowing beets, carrots, onions, cabbage. But such designs are expensive.

But there are also cheaper analogues - precision seeders “SOR - 1/1”. They are also single-row, can be equipped with a bush or brush sowing unit, the row marker is 0.5 m. This is quite enough for an average garden.

The use of a manual seeder can significantly reduce labor costs, increases the speed of the planting process, simplifies the technology, significantly improves the quality of crops, and hence the production excellent harvests in the future.

The seeder body consists of two side parts (1), one front (4) and one rear (3) walls, made of metal plates 1-5 mm thick. The parts are connected with rivets or countersunk screws. In turn, the front wall is a mandrel for moving the guide (5) and brush (7). The latter is made from an ordinary flat brush in a metal frame, which is soldered to the guide. The brush is moved using a screw (6), which is screwed into an M4 nut soldered to the guide (5).

Do-it-yourself manual precision seed drill, first drawing

The main part of the seeder is the axis (2), which has recesses according to the size of the seeds. The drawing shows two rows of such recesses (4 and 6 mm). If necessary, you can make additional rows for other seed sizes. The axis can be moved both to the right and to the left relative to the body and fixed in the desired position so that there are recesses inside the body under the brush the right size. This is done using two rings (9). The axle is inserted into the body, then rings with M4 screws are put on it and the axle is fixed in the desired position, it is important that it rotates evenly without jamming. Wheels (8), which are made of metal 1.5 mm thick, are attached to the ends of the axle. Circumferentially rims 12 holes with a diameter of 10-12 mm are drilled. Then a radial cut is made at each hole (see drawing), the resulting teeth are rotated 45 degrees with pliers, relative to the plane of the disk. The wheels are attached to the ends of the axle with MB screws and Grover washers. A pipe made of a thin-walled tube of suitable diameter is attached to the front wall (4) handle fastenings.

Do-it-yourself manual precision seed drill, drawing second

For the front and rear walls, the length dimensions are approximate; it is advisable to make them longer and adjust them to the location when installing the axle. It is important that the assembled seeder has minimal gaps between the axle and the walls, that is, sufficient for easy rotation of the axle, but at the same time the seeds should not get stuck in them.

So, the seeder is ready. The seeds are poured into the hopper (10), having previously installed recesses of the required size under the brush. Place the seeder on a well-prepared bed, press the handle to deepen the body to the recommended (for this type of seed) depth and pull along the markings on the bed. In this case, the front wedge-shaped part of the body makes a groove, and the seeds falling into the recesses of the axis fall out evenly into the groove. The brush sweeps away excess seeds. The uniformity of seeding can first be checked by flat surface(table, floor, board, etc.).

Note: on general view The front side of the seeder is conventionally shown as transparent, so the internal structure is visible.

Every gardener knows how important it is to sow seeds on time and at the same time correctly. This matter is not as simple as it might seem at first glance. If you have to sow large areas and as quickly as possible, then the usual pain in the lower back will not be enough. Here you also need to remember about the seeds themselves, especially if they were purchased in limited quantities. And in order to solve this problem, I suggest the reader to do simple design, so to speak, a seeder made from scrap material.

This seeder is made from an ordinary plastic can (from fish) mounted on a wooden handle.


But let's talk about everything in order. I took a plastic jar because it was perfect for this task. Firstly, it is easy to work with, and secondly, it is transparent, you can see how many seeds are left in it. Well, the most important detail is that it is light.

To begin with, I drilled a through hole exactly in its center; later a bolt will be inserted into it, on which the can itself will rotate.



Then he removed the cover on the side of the axle hole, cut a triangular slit (window) - the seeds will be poured into it. Well, to close it, I cut out the same triangular strip from a metal can, only a little large sizes. Using a homemade rivet made of aluminum wire, I secured this metal strip to the lid of the jar at the location of the window - the result was a closing structure. Now the seeds will not spill out of the jar during operation.


In the center of the jar (under the lid), I inserted a small piece of plastic pipe, its length is exactly the depth of the jar. Thus, “killing two birds with one stone” - the tube will not allow the seeds to spill out, and at the same time will not allow the jar to shrink inward when the bolt is inserted and tightened.


After the manipulations were done, I picked up a metal tube so that it would fit into the plastic one, cut it to the thickness of the can - it turned out to be something like a bearing. Now you can insert a long bolt of suitable thickness into the scrap and tighten it with a nut. But for better fixation, you need to put two washers on both edges of the can. Now our can rotates freely on the bolt.



Well, the last thing you need to do on the plastic jar is the holes through which the seeds will spill out. To do this, on the end side of the can, I put marks every three centimeters and, using a hot nail, burned holes in it exactly in the center. Here you need to take into account what fraction of seeds you will sow; if the holes are large, small seeds will fall out more densely.

Now the seeder is almost ready.



All that remains is to place the jar on a wooden handle of the required length. Having drilled a hole for the bolt at the end of the handle, I decided to play it safe and inserted a piece of metal tube into it (into the hole). In order for the bolt to rotate without any hitches.

Well, in order to completely “automate” the process, the resulting seeder needs a little addition.



Having cut out a strip of metal as shown in the photo and attaching a strip of fastening to it with rivets, I made a so-called “filler” of earth. And secured it on the handle above the can. Now you need to bend it as it is more convenient for you, and the earth itself will be covered with the sown seeds.

By the way, instead of such a filler, you can attach a small piece of chain to the handle, such as is used to tie dogs. Only the chain should be a bit heavy.


The principle of operation is this: make a row with a hoe, as you usually sow seeds. You insert the seeder into the row and drive it to the end of the row - and that’s it, move on to the next row. With this operating principle, seed savings are obvious. Which is very positive for business and your wallet. I wish you good luck!

A good man will always press the button

Manual, simple, mini - all carrot seeders are structurally different, but the operating principle is similar. The device helps to plant small seeds evenly in a row, which subsequently relieves summer residents from the need to thin out and form plantings.

A fully functional seeder is made from scrap materials: tin cans, plastic bottles, and other recyclable materials. Tools made of metal plates are intended for large peasant farms, where the goal is industrial scale growing vegetables and herbs. Making a metal seeder requires professional skills, but this tool can also be made with your own hands, especially if they are gold.

The carrot seeder must perform the following functions:

  • sowing in rows without gaps;
  • distribute seeds evenly (after a certain interval) in rows;
  • dispense a certain amount of seed per 1 linear meter (in pieces, grams);
  • plant seeds at a specified depth in the soil;
  • do not damage the seed;
  • After filling the furrows, fill them with loose soil.

How to make a hand seeder from metal

A manual seeder made of metal is a prototype, in functionality and design close to tools manufactured in a factory. This mechanical device is useful for large farms and greenhouses that grow carrots and other vegetables on an industrial scale.

As a result, sowing time is reduced and labor costs are saved by reducing the time for thinning seedlings. Seeds are sown in a row at a certain interval, which is adjusted manually. The principle of control of the seeder is mechanical, manual.


Operating principle of a manual seeder

When pushing the seeder, the wheels rotate, and with them the shaft, which, in turn, performs the function of a dispenser. There are small grooves on the shaft into which the seeds fall. Rotating around its axis, the roller takes a portion from the hopper. As the brush passes, excess seed material is cleaned from the recesses and one seed remains in them. With further rotation of the wheels and shaft, the seeds fall out of the niche directly into the prepared furrow.

The advantage of a manual seeder is that notches are usually made on one shaft different diameters in a certain order. This allows you to sow seeds of various vegetable crops, such as carrots, beets, herbs, peas, beans, etc. If necessary, the cell size and number are reduced using natural wax. Yulia Petrichenko, expert

When manufacturing a seeder, excavations are made taking into account the required distance between seedlings of crops. Also, the length of the shaft, and therefore the distance between the grooves, can be made larger or smaller than indicated in the drawing.

It should be remembered that maximum length, the diameter of the shaft and wheels are dependent on each other. The parameters are clarified by performing mathematical calculations.

Materials and tools

To make a seeder you will need:

  1. Sheet steel 1.5 mm thick.
  2. Scissors, hacksaw for metal.
  3. Soldering iron and hard solder.
  4. Short bushings.
  5. Steel strip 1 mm thick for the slider.
  6. Metal plate 0.1 mm thick.
  7. Brass rod with a diameter of 15 mm or a nut with an internal thread diameter of 8 mm.
  8. Solid steel rod with a diameter of 18 mm.
  9. Metal bushings 1 mm thick - for wheel hubs.
  10. Tools: pliers, pliers, lathe, ruler.
  11. Drilling machine or hand power tool.
  12. Wooden handle.

Since the work is supposed to be serious, the preparation, assembly, and processing of parts must be carried out by a person with certain skills. This requires technical knowledge, the ability to read blueprints and work with metal and metalwork tools.

Drawing of a homemade manual seeder

Despite the apparent complexity of making a manual metal seeder, the whole difficulty lies in cutting and processing the parts correctly. Following the drawing, any person with golden hands will quickly assemble the necessary and necessary tool for gardening.



Calculation of seeder parameters

We determine the approximate number of recesses on the shaft for seeds using the formula:

n = (3.14 D q i)/(V K),

where D – wheel diameter, m; q – required number of seeds per 1 linear meter of groove, pcs.; i – gear ratio from the wheels to the shaft, when installed at the same level, is equal to the length of the shaft; B – germination rate of the sown material, in fractions; K is a coefficient that takes into account soil viscosity and wheel slip (taken equal to 0.96...0.98).

where d – shaft diameter, m; n – number of rows.

When choosing the parameters of the seeder, take into account the following: the larger the shaft diameter, the better the seed capture and distribution in the recesses. Consequently, sowing occurs more evenly. Taking this into account, choose a shaft with a diameter of at least 40 mm.

Step-by-step instructions: do-it-yourself manual seeder

Main stages of preparation:

  1. From sheet metal 1.5 mm thick, cut out blanks according to the drawing: wheel rims, bunker walls and others. If necessary, sand edges and holes.
  2. Connect the body parts along lines and solder them with hard solder.
  3. Solder sliding supports - short bushings - into the holes of the side parts.
  4. Between back wall and use the shaft to make a minimum gap.
  5. On the outside of the front wall, solder a sleeve for wooden handle. From the inside, in the upper part, install the bracket for the adjusting nut at the top, for the slider guide - at the bottom.
  6. Make a slider from a strip of steel 1 mm thick and bend it as shown in the drawing. Solder a brush made of a thin 0.1 mm steel strip to the part.
  7. From brass to lathe grind the adjusting nut with a rim of 0.8 mm.
  8. Grind a shaft with 45 degree chamfers on both sides from a steel bar with a diameter of 18 mm.
  9. Drill 6-8 recesses on the shaft with a diameter of no more than 0.4 mm (for carrots), 0.6 mm (for larger seeds). Maintain a distance between rows of at least 20 mm and make recesses in a checkerboard pattern, then the seeds will be distributed evenly in the furrows. This design has 2 rows on one shaft. If you need to sow seeds further apart, leave one row and increase the distance between the holes. Accordingly, the number of cells will decrease to 3-4.
  10. Cut the wheel rims along the outer diameter with a hacksaw or scissors towards the center where the center line of the holes with a diameter of 10 mm passes. The number of cuts is equal to the number of holes (12). Using pliers, bend each petal outward at an angle of 45 degrees.
  11. Cut wheel hubs from metal 1 mm thick, bend and solder into disc holes with a diameter of 20 mm.
  12. Assemble the seeder in the following order: put the body on the shaft, then the wheels, secure the parts, and place the wooden handle.

A simple carrot seeder made from scrap materials

People say: “A good owner makes everything work.” Likewise, you can make a single-row seeder for small seeds with your own hands from recycled materials. By convenient device is Alexander Ivanovich Boldarev from Cherkassy.

Materials and tools

To make a smart seeder you will need:

  1. The shaft is metal or plastic made from a thick-walled water pipe.
  2. The wheel is made from an empty tin can. Wheels from a children's bicycle, etc. are also suitable.
  3. Retaining rings for wheels.
  4. Bunker - from a plastic bottle, food container, empty shampoo bottle.
  5. Foam rubber.
  6. M4 screw – 4-8 pcs.
  7. M4 nut – 4-8 pcs.
  8. Transport bracket – 1 pc.
  9. Wooden handle.
  10. Restrictive ring (or clamp) – 2-4 pcs.

Tools and devices for performing work:

  1. Screwdriver.
  2. Drill (can be hand-held).
  3. Drills of different diameters.
  4. Knife and scissors.

Diagram of a seeder made from scrap materials


Instructions: how to assemble a seeder

  1. Prepare all parts according to the drawing. Start with the shaft. In the middle of the plastic pipe, use a drill to drill holes of different diameters - for large and small seeds. Attention! Do not drill through the pipe.
  2. Make wheels from empty ones tin cans. For better traction with the soil, you can put rubber rings on the wheels in several rows. Use scissors to cut a hole in the middle to fit the diameter of the shaft.
  3. Cut a hopper from a plastic bottle: cut off the bottom, make holes in the walls on two opposite sides for the shaft. The neck of the bottle should point down.
  4. Place the hopper onto the shaft. Lay the foam rubber and glue it to the walls of the bottle so that when turning it, excess seeds are removed from the shaft. That is, after passing through the foam brush, the shaft should produce cells with 1-2 seeds in each.
  5. Attach the transport bracket to the shaft.
  6. Place the wheels on the shaft and secure with screws.
  7. Secure the hopper - attach it with screws to the bracket through the metal plate. When the shaft rotates, the hopper should remain in place.
  8. Insert a wooden handle.

A simple seeder for carrots and other vegetables significantly reduces labor costs. The time for sowing is reduced to several minutes per bed. The one-time costs of manufacturing a seeder are more than compensated for by the quick and easy landing future harvest. The service life of such a device is at least 5 years.

15316 10/08/2019 7 min.

Coming summer season V rural areas commemorated start of sowing work, which begin mainly in May. Previously, such work was done manually, but with the advent of partial mechanization this process was a little simplified.

In particular, manual precision seeding drills have appeared, designed to evenly distribute seeds into the soil. Using this device, you can sow not only a wide variety of vegetable seeds, but also sow lawn grass on the territory.

The Russian agricultural machinery market offers many various models, manufactured in Europe and the USA. But, no matter what manufacturer is listed on the packaging, the main goal of these manual seeders is the same - to distribute the seed in the soil as efficiently and evenly as possible.

About the design of a seeder for manual precision sowing of seeds

A manual precision seed drill, just like a garlic seeder in its own way design features looks a rather unpretentious invention. It consists of one or more containers where the seed will be located, a control handle and a frame located on wheels.

The wheels, which are located in front of the device, form holes or furrows, after which the seed from the hopper falls there, and the rear wheels fill the resulting hole with loose soil.

As we can see, the principle of operation is quite simple. In fact, you simply direct the unit over the area where you plan to grow various vegetable crops, and behind you there will already be holes with seeds.

At the same time, with the help of a manual seeder and a lawn seeder, you can plant not only seeds of lawn grass and vegetables, but also backfill with sand or fine gravel on icy and snowy paths in winter time so that you can safely walk on them without fear of falling.

In general, the process of working with a manual precision seeder can be divided into three stages:

  • Assembly process. First, you need to install the control handle from the transport position to the working position, and then put the rear wheel on the axle (if the unit used consists of two wheels). If necessary, we adjust the marker.
  • Commitment regulatory actions. Depending on what kind of crop the seed will be used, the installation of a specific disc in the bunker will depend. It is difficult to confuse them because they are all properly labeled.
  • The depth of the share must also be adjusted according to the specific seed.
  • Carrying out sowing work. After we put the unit into action, torque is transmitted from its front wheel to the disk through a belt or chain drive. This disk captures the seed from the container, and the ploughshare forms the desired depth of the hole.
  • The marker is responsible for ensuring that the row of planted seeds was even, so it forms a line on the ground for the next row.

For convenience, as well as for uniform distribution of seeds in the soil, it is recommended to sow the first row along predetermined contours. You can drive two pegs along the edges, connecting them with rope or thread. Thus, following parallel to this border, you will get a very even and visually beautiful row.

Models, technical specifications and prices - which one is better to buy

Manual precision seeders are designed to speed up the sowing process. Therefore, few people question the feasibility of purchasing them. However, to make the right choice, you need to pay attention to several main points:

  • Price unit, which can vary greatly from one manufacturer to another.
  • The total number of containers for seed material. Again, the more data bins, the higher the cost of the device.
  • The depth of the holes being formed will depend on the crop whose seeds are planted.
  • The weight of the device also plays a role, especially when working over large areas
  • Presence in the unit additional accessories, making the sowing process more convenient (marker, plow for filling seed, etc.).

There are quite a lot of different models on the market from manufacturers, which differ from each other in several design aspects.

In total, there are several companies that are most widely represented on the Russian agricultural machinery market.

Newtechagro

The device from this company is to single row types units designed for planting beets, cabbage, onions, carrots and other vegetable crops. The average cost for such a seeder is about 65 thousand rubles.

SOR-1/1

SOP-1/1 from the Rosta company also applies to single-row devices. The design may include a bushing or brush sowing unit, with a row marker of half a meter. The seed container holds about two buckets of seed, which is quite enough for a small garden.

The price for such a unit is only 2-3 thousand rubles.

Model 1001-B from American company"Earthway» has six replaceable discs for the most different cultures. In total, using this seeder, you can plant more than 28 different vegetable crops.

The design of the unit contains a special adjusting screw that allows you to change the depth of planting of the material.

Specifications:

  • total weight – 4 kg;
  • dimensions (packed) – 350mm/200mm/700mm;
  • planted crops - beets, carrots, onions, peas, spinach, etc.

The cost of this unit is about 8 thousand rubles.

SR-1 and SR-2

Models SR-1 and SR-2 from the already mentioned company NPK "Rosta" also deserve special attention.

Structurally, they are somewhat different from typical manual precision seeders, because their design uses a roller, and not a rear wheel, like most models. SR-1 has a mass of 4 kg, and SR-2 weighs at least 18 kg.

In general, these devices are very similar, they differ only in size and cost - the first model will cost 4 thousand rubles, and the second one is about 7 thousand.

Models of the MSK series from the same company differ in that in their design There is no control handle.

The seeder is connected to a regular shovel handle, after which the sowing process takes place. At the same time, the average productivity of these units is about 0.2 hectares per eight hours of operation.

The cost of these models varies from 7 to 15 thousand rubles.

AL-KO US 45

The AL-KO US 45 model from a German manufacturer can be used throughout the year.

In summer, you can use it to plant various vegetable crops and sow lawn grass, and in winter, if you don’t have a Foreman, Patriot, Husqvarna, Champion, Hooter or any other snow blower, you can spread gravel and sand on icy and snowy surfaces.

Specifications:

  • working width – 450 mm;
  • total number of holes – 23 pieces;
  • Hopper volume – 24 liters;
  • dosage – adjustable;
  • wheels – present in the amount of two pieces (plastic);
  • case material – plastic;
  • total weight – 3.5 kg.

The cost of this manual seeder is about 3 thousand rubles.

In general, there are many different modifications on the market, so the farmer has plenty to choose from. In particular, he can choose a drum or disk unit, belt or chain transmission, as well as the device configuration – standard or extended.

The unit pays for itself quite quickly - almost in one season.

This is explained by the fact that partial mechanization of the process makes it possible to carry out sowing work in an accelerated mode, which makes it possible to sow as much area as possible.

How to make a homemade seeder with your own hands

Do-it-yourself manual precision seed drill can be made quite simply but before starting work, you need to make sure that you have everything you need. In particular, you will need a seed container, which should be made of plastic.

This is explained by the fact that plastic products transparent, which allows you to control the amount of seed. In addition, we will need the following components:

  • a bolt that acts as an axis. The container with seeds will rotate on it during operation of the device;
  • We will also need a plastic pipe, the length of which should be identical to the depth of the plastic hopper container. In addition to the plastic one, we will also need a steel pipe, its length should be the same;
  • to secure the hopper we will need washers, as well as aluminum wire.

Let's move on to the assembly process. Let's describe it in the format step by step instructions so that an approximate algorithm of sequential actions is visible:

  • for a plastic jar that serves as a future bunker, you need determine the center. A through hole must be drilled at the marked point. We remove the cover, after which we make another through-type hole in the side, but this one is rectangular in shape;
  • The hopper will be filled with seed through this hole.
  • We place a plastic pipe in the center of the plastic jar, which will protect against material spilling out of the hopper. Then you need to install a steel pipe into this pipe and screw a bolt inside it. Then we tighten the bolt with a nut, which will allow our structure to rotate freely;
  • on the side plastic container marking points for future holes. The distance between them should be approximately 30 mm. We heat the nail, and then make holes in the marked places (the diameter of the nail must be chosen so that the seeds pass into the holes made by it);
  • Then you can move on to making the handle. You can take a regular shovel handle, then attach it to the seeder. It is fastened with a regular bolt and nut, so you need to first drill a through hole at the end of the handle into which the bolt is placed;
  • In order for the sowing process to be more automated, it is necessary to provide a device that would fill the holes with seeds. An ordinary sheet of iron will do, but it needs to be bent a little so that it rakes the earth better;
  • We attach our workpiece to the handle so that it is higher than the seed container.

In principle, our homemade device ready, i.e. you can begin full-fledged sowing work. Naturally, this device diagram is quite simplified, but it copes with its main responsibility.

The main point of all homemade products is saving cash, so there is no point in complicating the design with additional devices.

By the way, before you start sowing, you need to preliminary preparation surfaces where work will be performed. It involves removing excess debris from the area, as well as loosening particularly hard areas of soil.

It won’t hurt to water the soil with enough water. If you have not included a device in your homemade seeder, raking holes with seeds, then we need to prepare several buckets of soil to fill our seeds.

Conclusion

Purchasing a manual precision seeder can significantly speed up the process of sowing vegetable crops. Now you don’t have to walk around the garden, sticking each seed into the ground, but you can simply direct this device, which will do everything automatically.

It is precisely because of the simplification of manual labor that the meaning of purchasing this device does not raise any doubts. Moreover, the cost of some models does not exceed several thousand rubles, and this is not such a big price to pay for the convenience and quality that a manual seeder provides.