Proper insulation Rose care begins with preparing plants for the winter cold. It includes fertilizing flowers to restore strength after flowering, removing shoots that cannot withstand frost, and excess foliage. Following all the necessary procedures, you should wait optimal temperature air, in which the shelter will produce the desired effect, and will not cause the active growth of new shoots.

How to prepare roses for winter?

First of all, in the fall, plants need feeding. The point is that summer period Roses deplete a significant portion of the nutrients in the soil.

Fertilizers intended for use in the warm season should not be applied as autumn fertilizing, otherwise there is a high probability that the growth of green mass will be activated and the flowers will not be able to withstand the cold.

Before wintering, they are used to feed the rose garden. special compounds containing phosphorus, potassium and calcium. You can use folk recipe and add crushed banana peel or wood ash. And there are also ready-made complex fertilizers, such as Autumn, from various manufacturers.

A more labor-intensive but effective recipe: in 10 liters of water at room temperature, you need to dilute 15 grams of monophosphate and superphosphate. No more than 3 liters of the resulting liquid is added to each bush.

The shelter period for plants in central Russia and the Volga region is October. Experts recommend choosing more specific dates based on a drop in air temperature to -4 degrees.

Methods of covering different varieties

The climate in different areas in Russia varies significantly. Therefore, the methods and thoroughness of covering flowers in Siberia, the Urals or, for example, Nizhny Novgorod region, may differ. There are basic techniques and schemes that can be independently adjusted to the weather conditions of each region.

Insulation must correspond to a number of factors in order for flowers to successfully survive the winter:

• protection from gusts of wind and broken shoots;
• protection from precipitation entering the shelter;
• preventing overheating during the thaw period;
• maintaining humidity;
• free access of oxygen - air gap.

climbing roses

Climbing varieties of roses are very sensitive to cold and need careful insulation winter season not only the root system, but also the shoots.

There are the following methods of shelter:

1. 1. First - you should spud the rose, cover the base with sand or pine needles, and cover it with spruce branches. Next, the lashes need to be carefully laid on the spruce branches and covered with them again. Wrap the entire green mass with film or covering material.
2. 2. Second - you need to twist all the stems of the plant with a rope, and bend the thickest shoots to the ground and lay them on metal mesh so that they do not touch the ground. A canopy is mounted over the rose, which is wrapped in insulating film or agrofibre.

Bush species

You can build a hut for wintering bush roses with your own hands from scrap materials. A structure made of two nailed together boards, covered with film, will protect the flowers from winds and precipitation.

In addition, you can only insulate the base of the bush from freezing by hilling it with loose soil.

Standard rose

A distinctive feature of preparing a standard rose for the winter cold is that only sanitary pruning is carried out, which consists of removing dead and damaged shoots. The insulation procedure itself depends on the age of the plant.

• Young seedlings are carefully bent to the ground and fixed in this position using metal brackets. The base of the bush is covered with dry leaves, pine needles or sand. Spruce branches are placed under the crown and on top of it, after which the entire plant is wrapped with covering material or film.
• Adult roses should not be bent, as the stem may break off. Therefore, for insulation, a frame is installed around the bush, pine needles or dry leaves are poured inside, and a plastic bag or burlap. For stability, the structure is tied with twine.

Typical amateur mistakes

Beginning gardeners, having very often become superficially familiar with the methods of covering roses for the winter, make many mistakes that lead to deterioration in the health or death of plants. The most common are:

To preserve planted roses, you need to follow the instructions of specialists and listen to advice experienced flower growers engaged in flower breeding in a specific climate zone. It is recommended to remove any type of shelter gradually, starting from the second half of April, freeing the shoots layer by layer, and then the bases of the plants.

The closer the cold weather gets, the more pressing the question becomes of how to properly cover roses for the winter and whether it is necessary to do this. There are different ways shelters, which depend on the variety and varieties of the plant. Before you begin insulation activities, you need to understand in detail what needs to be done and in what sequence.

The closer the cold weather gets, the more pressing the question becomes of how to properly cover roses for the winter.

Not every type of rose requires insulation. They do not need shelter:

• antique garden roses;
• all species rose bushes, with the exception of Chinese, Bourbon and tea shops.

These plants are able to survive the harshest winters. Since such roses bloom once, their growth stops early, the wood of the shoots has time to fully ripen before the cold weather. With the arrival of winter, the bush is ready for frost. The situation with modern garden roses things are different. Such flowers were created specifically to delight their owners with lush and abundant flowering for a longer period of time, right up to cold weather.

With the arrival of winter, the bush is ready for frost

Garden types of roses are characterized by long-term growth of shoots that simply do not have time to ripen before frost. In this case, it is important to remember that almost all modern decorative varieties roses require special care on the eve of winter and need insulation. It is worth considering that the most resistant to cold are shrub species(scrubs), but it is also advisable to close them for the winter from bad weather. An exception among modern bush roses– hybrids of rugose rose, since they are characterized by early flowering, and the second time they bloom not very profusely.

Preparing bushes for cold weather

Covering roses for the winter is necessary to protect the bush from the cold and prevent freezing, because plants can be damaged even at temperatures of -5...-10˚С. Weather changing from sharp frosts to thaws is especially dangerous. The shelter additionally protects the bushes from pests and diseases. An important point is snow retention, which not only protects plants from sub-zero temperatures, but also maintains soil moisture levels.

Preparing roses for winter should begin before the first frost. First of all, remove various debris, leaves, and dry grass, which will prevent the development of fungal spores. Then you should take care of the plant itself and remove leaves and young shoots from it. If you neglect this point, then the process of rotting will begin under the shelter, which will lead to the death of the bush. After harvesting is completed, it is recommended to prune the roses. The procedure involves removing diseased, dry and damaged branches that are sources of infections. Dried and wilted flowers must also be removed. Stems and shoots are cut to 20-40 cm, which depends on the age of the bush and variety. It is important to note that several buds and the grafting area must remain intact.

It is not recommended to carry out radical pruning in the fall, as this will greatly weaken the plant and make it vulnerable to cold. The procedure for preparing roses for winter comes down to more than just cleaning and pruning. Diseases and infections associated with decay pose a great danger to the shrub. To protect against excess moisture, temperature changes and other negative influences, you need to not only cover the roses with breathable material, but also treat them with anti-fungal agents. It is advisable to repeat the treatment during the thaw period in the spring. To improve the aeration of the root system of the shrub, hilling is performed. This completes the preparatory activities.

How to insulate

Before starting the procedure, you should carefully dig up the soil near the bushes to the depth of a spade bayonet, avoiding damage to the roots. If we talk about climbing roses, then their shoots are bent to the ground and laid on a layer of spruce branches. To avoid breaking powerful bushes, you need to dig them up on one side, lay them down and attach the branches to the surface of the ground. The next step is to hill up the bush, while the soil is taken in a different place, and not near the roses. It is necessary to fill a hill near the bush with a height of at least 30 cm. After pruning, the floribunda and hybrid tea roses will be covered almost completely. If shrub varieties sprout after bending them to the ground, the shoots themselves can be sprinkled with soil.

You need to start preparing roses for winter before the first frost.

The hilling procedure makes it possible to preserve a larger number of buds in the plant, and in the spring it will be possible to prune using any of the methods. Under the earthen shelter the temperature will be higher for some time than outside. However, do not rush into hilling the bushes. In early October, a little soil is added to the base of the bushes, which will protect the plants from possible frosts, and full hilling is carried out before the onset of persistent cold weather. It is not recommended to use pure peat, sand or sawdust, since these components can absorb large amounts of moisture, and in frosty conditions ice will form around the bushes. As a result, damage will appear on the bark, which will lead to the development of infection. Humus, compost or loose soil are used as covering mixtures. Finally, roses are covered for the winter when the ground freezes.

Protection of bush roses

It is recommended to close the bushes from November 10 to 25. More precise dates depend on the climatic conditions of the region. The plants are first kept at low temperatures negative temperatures(down to -3˚С) for 10 days. It is best to carry out this event in dry weather and temperatures of -5...-7˚С. There is no need to rush, because if cover is created too early, favorable conditions for the further development of the plant, which will lead to the formation of buds that will not be able to overwinter under the material, will dry out and die. Covering measures should be started when there is a slight but stable negative temperature.

There are many ways to preserve roses until next season. The simplest and most popular is mulching the soil around the bush. Sawdust, straw, fallen leaves, soil, as well as snow or spruce branches are suitable for these purposes. Regardless of the material chosen, the layer should be 30-50 cm in height. This method is suitable for regions with warm and mild winters. If the temperature is winter period falls below -15˚С, additional insulation will be required.

To simple but effective methods refers to air- dry shelter: the structure consists of several pegs driven into the ground, onto which a wooden or metal flooring is secured. Afterwards, everything should be covered with film, which will provide additional protection from precipitation, frost and strong winds.

Quite often, roses overwinter under a wooden shelter: a protection is made from timber and covered with roofing felt, polyethylene or lutrasil. The latter material is considered the most acceptable, since it will not only protect from bad weather, but will also promote air exchange, keeping the shelter dry. When using film, one side of the shelter is left slightly open. However, this ventilation option will drive out all warm air inside the shelter, which will cause the plant to freeze. In this case, you can lay the pipe on the ground from the inside of the structure. For regions with little snowy winters and low temperatures It is recommended to approach insulation comprehensively. One example would be mulching a bush, covering it wooden boxes, insulation different materials. This design will protect the plant from frost and excess moisture, preserving the shoots until spring.

Insulation of standard roses

When preparing this type of rose for wintering, you should not subject the plants to drastic pruning: only perform sanitary cleaning in accordance with the characteristics of a particular variety. If the plant is young, then the stem is bent to the ground and secured with a pin. Bottom part The bush is insulated with leaves, pine needles or sand. Place directly under the crown and on top river sand or spruce spruce branches, after which the structure is covered with film; it can also be wrapped in other material.

This option is good, but it is only suitable for young plants, since it is simply impossible to bend down old lignified trunks. Trying to bend the trunk can damage the plant. In this case, roses are prepared for winter in a vertical position. To do this, install a metal mesh around the trunk and wrap it with roofing material, while leaving free space inside, which is filled with leaves, sawdust or pine needles. Then the structure must be wrapped in a plastic bag and tied with a rope, securing it.

There is another way to insulate standard roses. It is better to perform the procedure with an assistant. You will need to dig up the plant from the side in which it is supposed to tilt. Next, one person, holding the trunk at the base, pulls it in the chosen direction, while the second person, from the opposite side, presses on the root part with a shovel. As a result, the roots on one side will be turned out and raised above the ground. With this method, the main root part will remain intact, although some damage cannot be avoided. In fact, there is nothing scary about this, because root system remains completely alive, and the trunk will withstand the winter cold well. When the trunk is laid, it is pinned to the ground, and the trunk itself, roots and crown are sprinkled with spruce branches, pine needles or sand. You can cover the hilled plant with film. In spring, the rose's root system returns to the ground, and damaged roots are renewed.

Shelter of climbing roses

Sheltering is best done in dry weather. The shoots of the bush are twisted into an oval shape, and those that are too thick are bent to the ground and pinned. To attach the stems, use special wire supports. Dry leaves or spruce branches are placed on the ground, as when insulating other types of roses. After the shoots are laid, a gable slope will be installed on top wooden roof. Then the entire structure is covered with polyethylene of a suitable size so that it covers the ends and sides. The ends of the structure should be open until the temperature drops to -3˚C, which will ensure hardening of the plant. When it gets cold, it is completely covered with film. Such shelter will provide the correct temperature regime not lower than -8˚С.

Country cheat sheet No. 8: “When to cover roses for the winter in the fall?”

The October issues of magazines for gardeners and gardeners are literally full of notes on the topic preparing plants for winter : pruning flowers and raspberries, harvesting perennials for storage, whitewashing trees, winter sowing... in autumn A summer resident has no less worries than in the summer. And if they grow on the site roses- it's time to think about shelter for the winter for them. All important information about When is the best time to cover roses for the winter? , we have combined in one article. The result is a very informative country cheat sheet, which we hope will be useful to both us and you 😉

1. Preparing roses for winter.
2. It's time to cover the roses! Deadlines for Middle zone(including the Moscow region), the Urals and Siberia.
3. Favorable dates according to Lunar calendar for October and November 2018.
4. Fatal mistakes in covering roses.
5. Features of covering standard roses.
6. How to cover roses if only stumps were left when pruning.

Preparing roses for winter

Top dressing

From mid-August, it is necessary to finish fertilizing roses with nitrogen fertilizers, reduce or completely stop watering (depending on the weather). Starting from August, only phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are used in the rose garden. In autumn, on the eve of wintering, roses need potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. They help control growth, promote wood ripening (woodiness of shoots) and increase cold resistance. Fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus can be applied from the end of August. Superphosphate, potassium sulfate, ash, as well as special complex “autumn” fertilizers are suitable. If the autumn turned out to be long and warm, it is not too late to do the final fertilizing in the 2nd ten days of October (if you didn’t have time in September). In addition, in the second mid-September it is necessary to stop digging and loosening the soil between the bushes, their formation, so as not to cause the development of shoots from buds that are at rest

Scheme for strengthening feeding of roses in preparation for winter:

1. The first fertilizing is applied in mid-August. Dissolve in 10 liters of water: 25 g of superphosphate, 10 g of potassium sulfate, 2.5 g boric acid. The solution is applied at the root at the rate of 2 liters per 1 square meter.
2. The second feeding is done in September. Dissolve in 10 liters of water: 15 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potassium sulfate. Or you can use complex “Autumn” mineral fertilizer.

*For foliar feeding dosages are reduced by 3 times.

Pruning shoots

More recently, flower growers were of the opinion that in the fall rose bushes should definitely be pruned, leaving stumps of about 30 cm, with 5-7 buds on the shoot. Now another technique is widespread: in the fall, the branches are bent to the ground, securely fixing them, and then covered for the winter. Pruning is carried out in a gentle manner, as necessary: ​​dry, diseased and very old, inflexible branches that prevent covering, as well as immature wen shoots, are cut out. It is believed that autumn pruning takes away the plant’s strength and requires enormous costs to restore it. Bushes that are not pruned in the fall withstand the winter better, and in the spring they begin to grow faster and bloom earlier.

In the fall, it is advisable to trim branches if they interfere with the shelter and may break when trying to bend them down. Pruning is done only to the height of the shelter, adjusted for the variety (there is a difference in pruning climbing, hybrid tea roses etc.).

It is better to prune roses in the middle - end of October., while the frosts have not set in, but the main heat is already behind us. There is no need to rush into pruning, otherwise the buds will wake up and the shoots will begin to grow again. It is useful to treat sections on thick branches with garden varnish, and thin ones with brilliant green.

The main pruning is carried out in the spring, based on the results of wintering, after removing the covers,

Leaf trimming

Up to late autumn When it’s time to prepare shelters, some varieties of roses are green and even bloom. If you leave everything as is, during wintering, they will most likely rot (and this will adversely affect the health of the entire plant).

Late October - early November(after the first frost) the leaves must be removed without leaving petioles. At the same time, the remaining flowers, ovaries and immature shoots are cut off. It is convenient to trim with a small pruner or scissors. You should start from the bottom of the branches, gradually moving to the tops.

If there is a lot of foliage and its removal becomes too labor-intensive, you can get by with a little:

• Before covering, treat the bushes with any copper-containing fungicide, following the recommendations on the package.
• Remove at least the base of the branches from the leaves so that the bush is well ventilated, and then spray with any antifungal drug (containing copper) or a 3% solution of iron sulfate.

Treatment before shelter

After gentle pruning and removal of leaves, the bushes are usually treated with fungicide solutions to prevent the spread of rot. In addition to the above-mentioned remedies (copper-containing preparations, iron sulfate), it is recommended to use a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

Should I hill up roses for the winter?

The question is again controversial, here rose growers have two opinions:

• Hilling up rose bushes will protect them in frosty, snowless winters. In this case, hilling will be beneficial.
• The base of the hilled bushes is dampened, so the hilling will only do harm.

Conclusion: everyone chooses for themselves whether to hill up or not.

It is definitely worth refusing to hill up if the area itself is damp or the autumn was rainy and the soil was oversaturated with moisture. In this case, hilling even previously prepared dry soil mixture will be redundant. It is advisable to carry out hilling if the autumn turned out to be dry and slightly frosty. Suitable option mixtures for hilling roses for the winter: dry and loose mature compost with sand and peat. You should not use pure peat and sand - they absorb moisture, and sawdust rots.

Important! Standard roses absolutely require hilling (more on the features of their shelter below).

Sheltering roses for the winter: Optimal timing

After preliminary preparation, with the onset of favorable weather, the roses are ready to cover for the winter! Question: when does this readiness occur? So, the sources we analyzed say:

— Cover the roses you can start in the first ten days of October (newspaper "AiF. At the dacha" ). While the weather is still warm enough, the shoots remain flexible and bend more easily (on frosty days the shoots become brittle and brittle). The branches are bent and fixed in a horizontal position using metal pegs. Thick branches can be bent gradually, in several steps. At the same time, the shelter frames are installed. The roses are finally covered in late October - early November, after the onset of persistent cold weather (and even light frosts), but before snowfall. At the final stage, the installed frames are covered with spunbond. Important! You cannot lay roses directly on the ground: there must be a gap between the soil surface and the shoots for ventilation, and one and a half liter plastic bottles or thick foam plastic should be placed as a “gasket”.

— Don’t rush to take cover ( magazine "Flower"). Roses should be thoroughly insulated on frozen ground., and it’s better to prepare for this in advance - start bend branches before frost (from mid-September). Roses are quite cold-resistant and can easily tolerate light autumn frosts without shelter. Let the rains pass and begin to settle subzero temperatures- then you can finally cover the roses with non-woven materials.

— Warming shelters for roses it is necessary to install after the autumn frosts grab the ground or shortly before this moment - no earlier than November ("Homestead newspaper" ). Hasty sheltering (at temperatures from zero and above) risks the plants starting to damp out and the humidity to rise, which creates favorable conditions for the development of fungal infections.

These terms can be applied both for the Middle Zone (including the Moscow region), and for the Urals and Siberia, since it is more important to rely on weather conditions, weather forecasts, and temperature indicators.

Favorable days according to the Lunar calendar 2018

In October In 2018, astrologers recommend pruning and covering roses:

• 14th, 19th, 22nd, 27th, 28th and 31st.

According to the calendar from the magazine “Homestead Farming”.

Not favorable days for pruning in October:

• October 9, 17, 18, 19, 24 (days of the New Moon, Full Moon, Moon in the sign of Aquarius).

In November 2018 favorable days for covering roses for the winter:

• November 1, 3, 17, 18, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30.

Unfavorable days for pruning in November:

• November 7, 14, 15, 23 (days of the New Moon, Full Moon, Moon in the sign of Aquarius).

According to the calendar from the magazine “My Favorite Dacha”.

7 mistakes in preparing roses for winter

1. Early cover. If you thoroughly cover roses at temperatures above zero, there is a great danger that the bushes will dry out and become easy prey for fungal infections. At the beginning of autumn - from mid-September - until the branches are caught by frost and bend well, you can begin to bend them to the ground. And it is better to start insulation on frozen soil, no earlier than the end of October.

2. Bending branches in frosty weather can be dangerous. Frosts make the shoots brittle and brittle. The bark may crack, resulting in the formation of wounds that will become a gateway to various types of infections. It is recommended to start bending the branches in mid-September, and it is better to do this gradually, fixing the horizontal tilt with metal pegs. It’s convenient to use kebab skewers for this - they go into the ground “like clockwork,” and it’s easy to tie twine to the tip.

3. Early pruning of immature shoots, while it is still warm, stimulates the active formation of new ones. It turns out to be monkey work. It is recommended to trim immature shoots (as well as leaves and remaining ovaries) only after the first frost (usually in the 3rd decade of October). In general, flower growers today agree that it is not necessary to carry out fork pruning in the fall; it is enough to remove old and diseased branches, as well as selectively shorten them if they are difficult to cover.

4. Garter of roses with ropes from natural materials It is dangerous because during wintering it accumulates moisture and rots. Polypropylene twine is more suitable for this.

5. When sending roses under cover, you cannot leave leaves on them. They will rot, the bushes will not be ventilated - all this opens the way for infections. In the second half of October, the leaves are cut with pruning shears or, carefully running your hands in gardening gloves along the trunk, shake off the foliage. Attention! Rose leaves cannot be used for shelter; they should certainly be removed from under the bush.

6. You should not lower rose branches onto bare ground or film. It is advisable that it be dry under the branches. By bending the shoots in front of the shelter, you can build a “platform” under them from plastic bottles or polystyrene foam.

7. Ruberoid or polyethylene film not very good as a covering material. It is also better not to use metal tanks and buckets. It is best to cover roses for the winter with thick lutrasil or spunbond, throwing them over a frame made of metal rods or chain-link mesh. It turns out to be a cozy mini-greenhouse.

How to cover roses if you had to cut them short in the fall

If you had to do short pruning in the fall (the old fashioned way), leaving stumps 30-40 cm high, it is recommended to do this:

1. After pruning (usually after the first frost, in the first ten days of October), treat the bushes with a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture.
2. Hill up the plantings with dry soil mixture to a height of 20-25 cm, covering the horse's neck.
3. Leave the roses to harden until early November.
4. In the first ten days of November, in dry weather, you can begin insulation. There is no need to bend anything because the roses are cut short.

Ways to cover trimmed roses:

— The easiest way to cover roses pruned in autumn is with a layer of at least 10-15 cm of spruce branches.

— The air-dry method of covering is most often used (it is the most reliable): Build a frame over the bushes and cover it with hydro-thermal insulating material.

— Individual bushes can be insulated in this way: tie the branches of the bush together, surround them with a chain-link mesh in the form of a fence (diameter 30-50 cm). Fill the space between the bush and the mesh with soil mixture. Wrap the structure on top with spunbond in 2 layers. Straw, manure, hay and moss are not suitable as insulation materials, since they absorb moisture and can cause rotting.

Features of sheltering a standard rose

The main difficulty is to correctly determine the side of the slope, because the trunk at the grafting site is easy to break. An interesting comparison is given in an article on covering standard roses in the Dacha newspaper:

• You need to imagine that the fingers in a clenched fist are the bump at the grafting site, and the shaft is the thumb. Barrel, like thumb hands, should fit easily on the bump. The diagram clearly conveys this essence:

Procedure

1. A small hole is dug around the trunk, very carefully so as not to touch the root system.
2. The trunk is bent gradually, allowing it to get used to the new position. They bent it - waited a couple of days, and so on, until the plant took a horizontal position.
3. The hole is buried and the base is covered with dry soil mixture.
4. It is useful to place something solid under the trunk (a log or plastic bottle) as a support for the trunk so that it does not break under the weight of snow.
5. The horizontal position is fixed with polypropylene twine, tying it to a metal peg.
6. You can put spruce branches or dry oak leaves under the crown of the standard rose and on it.
7. It would be a good idea to spray the plants with a solution of iron sulfate and put poison inside the shelter for mice, which like to visit pink shelters in winter and feast on the plantings.
8. Finally, they arrange an air-dry shelter for the entire plant as a whole, insulating the stem as well. Thick lutrasil or spunbond is placed on top. It is better to refuse covering with film or roofing felt.
9. If there is little snow in winter, it needs to be covered additionally. The main insulation for roses is snow.

We hope that we really managed to collect as much information as possible on the topic in this summer cottage cheat sheet, and that it turned out to be useful for you. Write reviews, share your experience in the comments, we will be glad! 😉

With the onset of autumn, novice gardeners begin to think about the question: do they need to cover roses for the winter? After all, this flower is considered a special regal flower that requires careful care. So that the plant does not die from severe frosts and next year delights with its lush flowering, you need to know how to cover roses for the winter.

When to prepare roses for winter

Before solving the problem of how to insulate roses, preparatory measures should be carried out. The preservation of flowers in the winter cold depends not only on reliable insulation. It is recommended to prepare for winter even when planting roses.

Best to plant winter-hardy varieties, since the tender and weak simply cannot survive even with ideal insulation.

The planting location is of great importance in how to cover roses for the winter. If the flowers are planted in a place protected from the wind, thorough protection is not required. However, roses growing in open, windy areas require more serious insulation.

The health of roses plays an equally important role in preparing for winter. Flowers that are regularly fed and watered will be healthy and will survive the winter more easily.

Before covering roses, you need to prune them.

Preparing roses for winter

Roses are heat-loving plants. Even 10-degree frosts can be destructive for many species of these flowers. Therefore, novice gardeners should not even doubt the question of whether to cover roses for the winter. The main thing is to do everything right.

1. Insulation of bush roses

The most simple view the shelter will be the hilling of the pruned bush. The top of the mound of earth can be sprinkled with dry leaves or covered with spruce branches.

The air-dry method will be more effective. To do this, the rose is pruned and hilled. A structure of boards is built around the bush in the form of a hut, which is covered with a thick film.

You can surround a whole row of flowers with pegs, and build a roof on top from wooden shields or sheets of metal. The entire structure is covered with a thick film, pressing the edges with bricks.

2. How to cover climbing roses

This type requires a special approach, so beginners should carefully read the rules on how to cover climbing rose. To insulate it, you can use covering material. This method is convenient because the thorny branches do not need to be removed from the supports. They are wrapped in burlap and secured with ropes.

The second method is more reliable, but it is more labor-intensive. The branches are carefully removed from the supports, trying to do this before frost, while the lashes are still elastic.

A bedding made of spruce branches, boards, slate or roofing felt is placed under them. The lashes are covered with boards, spruce branches and a film is pulled on top, pressing it down with stones.

3. Covering standard roses

For wintering, standard roses need to be bent and pinned to the ground, then covered with sand and covered with leaves and spruce branches.

Old roses, whose trunk is stiff and does not bend, are covered in a vertical position. How to properly cover roses in a vertical position? To do this, a frame is installed around the trunk and wrapped with roofing felt. You can wrap the flowers in burlap, securing it with a rope.

Removing cover

Now that you know how to cover roses for the winter, it is very important to remove the insulation correctly. Remember that if you open the roses late, they will trample. If it's too early, they'll freeze. And be sure to take care to protect the plants from drying out and sunburn.