Roses are considered capricious southern flowers, but they are grown even in the Arctic Circle. They grow well in many areas with very severe winter frosts, you just need to choose the right varieties. And a reasonably organized shelter for roses for the winter in the Urals will help you live comfortably even in such a difficult climate. In summer, flowers feel great, but you need to think in advance about how to prepare roses for winter.

When to cover

It is impossible to say exactly the date when to cover roses for the winter in the Urals; it depends on the weather, the type and variety of the plant. Usually this happens after stable frosts have set in; a short-term drop in temperature to -5 degrees not only does no harm, but contributes to its improvement; this is nothing more than hardening. Preparing roses for winter begins in August, when watering is gradually done less often, nitrogen is excluded from fertilizing, and plants are strengthened with potassium and phosphorus. The flowers that bloom in August are not pruned; the ripening of the fruits ends the period of activity and prepares the plants for the dormant period. Pruned in September lower leaves, unripe shoots that most likely will not survive the winter. Bushes with shoots exposed at the base are first treated with iron sulfate or a mixture of copper sulfate and soda (this mixture is called Burgundy liquid), then covered with earth and sand to a height of 15 cm, and covered with leaf humus on top. This is done to protect the roots from excess autumn moisture; you can even cover the bushes with film when it rains.

With the onset of frost, while the thermometer still does not drop below -5 degrees, and even then at night, roses are freed from foliage, buds and flowers, plant debris is raked out of the bushes, and the bushes themselves, the soil around them and dry leaves covering the bases of the shoots, sprayed with Bordeaux or Burgundy liquid to prevent diseases. After this, a shelter is prepared.

Experts say that preparation for wintering begins when you buy a seedling and look for a place for it on your plot. The roses that grow best in the Urals are those that have been grafted onto rosehips, and not their own roots, and it is advisable to buy them at the nearest nursery, then you can be sure that the varieties are zoned, which means that the local climate will not be a test for them.

Roses need to be planted on a small hill; they must be protected from the north and west from the wind by a building wall, fence or hedge, but with south side It is better to open them to the sun. Proper care will make roses strong, and it will be easier for strong and healthy plants to survive the winter.

Video “Pruning for the winter”

From the video you will learn how to properly prune bushes before wintering.

Which flowers require pruning?

There is no need to heavily prune roses for the winter. For all types of roses, without exception, it is necessary to cut out damaged and unripe shoots, cut off leaves and flowers before entering the winter period, and shorten the shoots only slightly. So, hybrid tea roses and floribunda are shortened by 10 - 20 centimeters so that they fit into the shelter.
Climbing plants are removed from their supports, the shoots are shortened by no more than a third, and the same is done approximately with ground cover plants that have long flexible stems and even with tall scrubs. There are many opinions on how to prune roses in the fall, but heavy pruning can have a bad effect on flowering and everything. appearance bush on next year. Therefore, it is better to return to pruning in the spring, then you will need to look at how the shoots withstood the Ural frost, and, if necessary, trim even a growing bush.

How to bend

In order to hide rose bushes under cover, most often the shoots have to be bent to the ground.

Preparation climbing roses for winter consists of folding and laying the shoots after pruning. Long flexible branches ground cover roses They are also rolled up and placed on spruce branches, polystyrene foam, boards or other substrate.

But those shoots that grow long but do not bend, such as those of scrubs, must be bent as close to the ground as possible if it is not possible to lay them on it. This is a very difficult task.

If you try to immediately tilt a prepared bush (pruned and treated against rot and fungi) with tall, straight-growing shoots towards the ground, this may result in broken shoots. Therefore, many bushes begin to bend even in the middle of August flowering. A tall, thick, perhaps already lignified shoot must first be tilted and the achieved position secured. Then, after a week, tilt it again and fix it again. This is the only way to gradually bring all the shoots closer to the ground without loss. It is easier to do this after rain, in the late afternoon.

You cannot bend the shoots in different directions; correct folding is when the tip approaches the grafting point. This does not always happen, but you need to try to tilt the shoots to one side so that they fit completely under the shelter; everything that does not fit is usually cut off.

What to cover

Rolled up or even bent shoots are placed on a substrate and covered with dry leaves on top. If in the south this was enough, or it would be worth putting spruce branches on top, then in the Urals roses should be given an airy dry shelter. A frame needs to be installed above the hilled bushes with folded shoots. Its role can be played by wooden or plywood boxes, shields installed on all sides of the bush (or rose garden), or wire arches. Kraft paper, roofing felt, and then plastic film are laid on top of them. But it would be better to use lutrasil, spunbond or other similar material, which is pressed down with stones or boards around the perimeter so that the wind cannot move it.

A high-quality shelter must protect the wintering flower from cold wind, snow and rain; it must withstand the heavy weight of possible snow and not collapse under its weight. In addition to all this, it should exclude the possibility of overheating of the plant during short thaws, and this can be achieved only by maintaining the possibility of ventilation. All these conditions are met by an air-dry shelter that will rise above the bush, leaving a sufficient layer of air.

Lutrasil does not let water inside, but during the cold autumn rains it would be good to build such a shelter, but do not close it tightly, leaving it open at the ends and throwing a film on top.

When the rains stop, the film can be removed. And it will be possible to close all sides tightly with the arrival of permanent frosts. This will protect the plants from the cold and excess moisture, but will get enough fresh air.

Video “Shelter of Roses”

From the video you will learn how to properly cover bushes for the winter.

In regions with cool climates, organizing the wintering of roses is very important, since otherwise they may die: modern varieties and hybrids of garden roses have lost the ability to go into a dormant state on their own - they meet winter with buds, flowers and leafy shoots. The first frosts introduce roses into a dormant period, but following the cold, an increase in temperature to 0 ºC and above again awakens the plants, and sap flow resumes in them. When the temperature drops again to -3 ºC, the juices in the roses freeze, causing their tissues to tear, and frost holes form on the shoots - long cracks filled with ice. In these places, the damaged epidermis no longer protects the internal tissues of plants from pathogens that begin to develop as soon as the air temperature rises again to 0 ºC.

Save the damaged low temperatures Roses in the fall and winter can only be protected from disease infection by dry shelter, in which the juice flowing from the wounds will quickly dry out, which will allow the wounds to scar. We will tell you how to prepare roses for winter, whether you need to prune roses in the fall, and if this is necessary, then how to properly prune roses for the winter, and also answer questions about whether to cover roses for the winter and how exactly this should be done.

Listen to the article

Preparing roses for winter

From the beginning of August, the application of nitrogen fertilizers to the soil is stopped, but just at within this period, it is necessary to carry out the first strengthening winter root feeding roses, which consists of 25 g of superphosphate, 2.5 g boric acid(or 3.5 g of borax) and 10 g of potassium sulfate, dissolved in 10 liters of water. This amount of solution should be enough for 4 m² of area. The second strengthening fertilizer is applied to the soil a month later - at the beginning of September: 16 g of potassium sulfate, or potassium monophosphate, and 15 g of superphosphate are dissolved in 10 liters of water.

But it is better to carry out foliar treatments of roses instead of root treatments - spray the bushes on the leaves with the same solutions, but in a concentration three times less than with root feeding.

From the beginning of autumn they also stop loosening the soil under the bushes, so as not to provoke the growth of shoots from dormant buds, and from mid-September, all the buds that are smaller than a pea are plucked out, and those larger in size are allowed to ripen and form fruits.

In the photo: Trimmed rose bushes before wintering

Pruning roses in autumn (for winter)

When to prune roses in the fall

Our website has already posted an article that describes in detail pruning roses in the fall for beginner gardeners, but we will briefly remind you of its contents. Should roses be pruned for winter? Certainly. Only park and groundcover species do not require pruning, and climbing roses are pruned only lightly. The pruning procedure strengthens the plants, increases their frost resistance, and improves air exchange in the crown.

Pruning is carried out just before the plants are covered for the winter, in the second half of October or early November. Prepare your tools in advance – they must be well sharpened and sterile.

How to prune roses for the winter

Both mature and newly planted bushes are pruned: you need to remove all dry, diseased, old and weak stems, cut off flowers and buds, and completely remove foliage from the branches. Leave 3-5 of the most developed shoots on the bush, equidistant from each other if possible, and cut out all the rest. All shoots that have not had time to ripen are also subject to mandatory removal, since in winter they will begin to rot under cover and can destroy the entire bush. When pruning, follow these rules:

• choose a sunny, windless day for the procedure;
• thick stems older than three years with dried bark are best cut out with a hacksaw;
• cuts and cuts must be oblique so that water drains from them without stagnating;
• the cut should pass over the swollen, but not sprouted bud at a distance of half a centimeter from it;
• pruning is done on the outer bud, then the growing shoots will not intersect, and light and air will penetrate into the middle of the bush;
• shorten the stems to the white core.

In the photo: Shelter of a large area with roses

It is also important to know how long to cut rose shoots, taking into account the specifics of the species. There are three types of shoot pruning:

• long pruning - the shoot is shortened slightly, leaving at least 9-10 buds on it;
• medium pruning, in which the shoot is cut at a height of 35 cm from the surface of the site, leaving 5 buds on it;
• short pruning, which is needed only in extreme cases, since the shoots are removed almost to the base, leaving no more than two buds on them.

Polyanthus, hybrid tea roses and floribunda are pruned to four or five lower developed buds. Cascading standard roses are pruned short only in the first year, leaving shoots 15 cm long, and in subsequent years only faded shoots are pruned, and young ones are slightly shortened. Grandiflora roses, like remontant varieties, cut off, leaving 5 buds on the shoots. Shoots of Old English and shrub varieties roses are shortened by three quarters or two thirds. Park roses, the most winter-hardy of all species, They are subjected only to sanitary pruning, removing old, damaged and weak branches, and young strong shoots are only slightly shortened.

After pruning, remove all leaves from the shoots by wearing a glove and running your hand along the shoots from bottom to top to avoid damaging the buds.

Pruning climbing roses for the winter

For climbing roses, damaged, dry and weak shoots, flowers and buds are removed for the winter; developed strong shoots are only slightly shortened, but one or two old shoots are cut to 35-40 cm - to stimulate the growth of basal replacement shoots.

If you carry out full pruning, you can provoke the appearance of a large number of non-flowering vegetative shoots next season.

Climbing roses are pruned in late September or early October. After the procedure, do not forget to remove the leaves from the branches, and then remove all plant debris from under the bush.

In the photo: Covering roses for the winter with covering material

Sheltering roses for the winter

When to cover roses for the winter

By freeing the roses from their leaves, you will give them a signal that it is time to rest. Allow the cuts and cuts to dry thoroughly and begin covering the bushes for the winter. However, you should not rush too much, since in the warm, lingering autumn, roses will continue to grow without leaves, and if they are covered at this time, the plant buds may dry out and die. At what temperature should roses be covered for the winter? It is necessary to keep the roses for two weeks at a temperature of -2 to -5 ºC so that their vital activity is completely extinguished, and only after that build a shelter. Please note that roses grafted onto rose hips can withstand temperatures of -10-12 ºC, while self-rooted ones die at -3 ºC.

When and how to cover roses in the middle zone and in the Moscow region

The optimal time for constructing a shelter in the central regions of Russia is the first or second ten days of November. Choose a dry, clear day for this, when the temperature is between -5-7 ºC. How to cover roses for the winter in the Moscow region? Hybrid tea, polyanthus roses and floribunda are bent to the ground, having previously laid spruce branches under them, and secured with wooden or metal pins. The base of the bush is covered with dry soil, peat, compost or humus to a height of 35-40 cm, and then the lying roses are covered with dry foliage or spruce branches. You can install metal arcs over a lying bush and stretch covering material over them.

In the photo: Insulating the base of rose bushes

The shoots of hybrid tea, standard and floribunda roses are more fragile and less flexible than the stems of climbing roses, so it is difficult to bend them to the ground. Leave these roses in an upright position, building above them metal arched supports of the required height, on which you can stretch the film, but do not forget to hill the base of the bush high before covering it.

Not all roses need shelter. Most of the park varieties and hybrids are characterized by such high winter hardiness that they do not require protection from the cold at all, and the bushes of those park varieties that are worth worrying about should be hilled up high enough and wrapped in paper for the winter.

Sheltering roses for the winter in the Urals

Covering roses in autumn in the Urals can be done at the end of October, when the air temperature reaches -5 ºC. It is good if dry snow falls by this time - its natural protection slows down the cooling of the soil. But you can’t rely on nature, so it’s better to cover the roses. In mid-October, trim the bushes to the height of the shelter, remove immature shoots and leaves from them, and remove debris and plant debris from the tree trunk circle.

Sometimes rodents settle under the shelter, damaging the bark at the bottom of the shoots, so it is advisable to place poisoned baits under the bushes: sawdust is soaked in a creolin solution at the rate of 1 tablespoon of the drug per bucket of water and laid out under the bushes. The bush is covered with peat or dry soil to a third of its height, and top part tied with spruce branches.

In the photo: Sheltering roses for the winter

For single, short-pruned bushes, use wooden boxes, which are covered with film on top, pressing its edges with boards, bricks or sprinkling with earth so that a gust of wind does not tear off the polyethylene. However, do not press the film completely, leave small vents in several places for air exchange.

If a harsh winter is expected, make a hut over the bush from boards or sheets of plywood, and cover it with film on top. The height of the air-dry shelter should be such that its “ceiling” is 10 cm above the bush. In such a house, roses do not freeze or rot.

If you grow a lot of roses in your area, make a board frame over the bushes the width of the flowerbed and stretch the film over it, also pressing it along the edges to the ground.

How to cover roses for the winter in Siberia

Roses covered for the winter will not die from frost, but they may dry out. To prevent this from happening, you should not cover the roses too early, and in order to determine the required timing, you have to carefully monitor the weather forecast - after all, sometimes even the beginning of November can be warm in Siberia.

Young, recently planted roses can be covered with five-liter plastic bottles with the bottom cut out and covered with dry leaves on top. In order to avoid damping off the rose, you need to remove the cap from the bottle.

Adult, short-pruned bushes should be buried high in soil and also covered with dry leaves.

In the photo: Covering roses with spruce branches for safe wintering

The fact is that in Siberia the winters are snowy, so roses need to be kept from freezing only until the snow falls, and then they will safely overwinter under it.

Sheltering climbing roses for the winter

The difficulty of covering climbing roses is that they cannot be pruned too much, otherwise they will not bloom next year - after all, plants of this species bloom on last year’s shoots. Therefore, the climbing bush needs to be bent to the ground in several steps, like raspberries, and place them on a bed of spruce branches. Cover roses when established minus temperature. Roses laid on a bed of spruce branches are covered on top with the same spruce branches or dry leaves, and then with film or covering material.

Covering material for roses for the winter

To cover roses for the winter, use the following material:

• plastic film;
• lutrasil;
• spunbond;
• geotextiles;
• dry leaves;
• spruce branches;
• burlap and rags;
• old blankets and coats;
• boards and plywood.

Which material is best to choose depends on the type of rose and the method of covering. Large plants with good immunity will only need to be covered with leaves or spruce branches, but for sensitive species it is necessary to build “houses” from boards and plywood, wrapping them additionally in bags and rags.

To cover large areas, you can use polyethylene film, but it is better to use geotextiles, lutrasil or spunbond, which are stretched over a metal or wooden frame. These materials not only protect roses from the cold, but also remove fumes which cause damping off of plants.

In the photo: How to cover roses for the winter with spruce branches

The density of the material must be at least 200 g/m², and the material must be folded several times. The non-woven shelter stretched over the frame must be covered at the bottom with long boards and pressed down with bricks. If, when covering plants with film, it is necessary to leave air vents, then spunbond, lutrasil and geotextiles must be securely fastened around the entire perimeter so that there are no holes left anywhere through which cold winter air will penetrate.

Using for shelter nonwovens, you don’t have to remove climbing roses from their support for the winter: their base is hilled to a height of 30 cm, and then the bush is securely wrapped in several layers of material, securing the structure with staples and a stapler or clothespins.

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In the fall, many are tormented by the question: “What will happen first, severe frost or snow?” Famous rose connoisseur Alexey STEPANOVI'm sure there's no need to worry unnecessarily: that's right covered roses Any frost is not scary.

Kustons of scarlet roses again

Filled the morning with aroma

In winter he froze in melancholy

tired dreams, calling for spring.

William Thackeray.

Under shelter, roses can withstand long-term temperature drops even down to -30 without snow, and without it they freeze already at -12, especially hybrid tea ones. So when is the best time to cover? Even professionals often give the wrong answer to this question for beginners.

Accepted consider that roses should be covered when the temperature reaches -5...-7 o. Many still firmly believe that frosts not only will not harm roses, but, on the contrary, will harden them before wintering. These tips were born when there were no non-woven breathable materials yet and they were covered the old fashioned way - spruce plus spruce branches. With this method, early-packed roses could simply withstand positive temperatures, butNow you no longer need to wait for frost.Lutrasil allows light and air to pass through and retains heat, smoothing out the difference between day and night temperatures. Weather late autumn unpredictable, you can’t guess what will happen: a small minus (–5 O ), at which open roses will not be harmed, or suddenly -12 O - and they will immediately freeze.

That's why I start pruning and covering the bushes early, from October 15. By this time, in the Moscow region, roses have stopped growing and they begin to enter a state of dormancy. But it is quite possible to start this business earlier, for example, from October 1. Practice has shown that early shelter does no harm. On the contrary, roses ripen in greater comfort.

I start by removing the leaves. People often ask, isn’t this extra work? I think such an event is mandatory, although there are roses with a large number of shoots (climbing, groundcover), and, consequently, leaves, which are simply unrealistic to remove. Well, you can leave them. Having lost their clothes, roses understand that winter is coming, it’s time to stop growing and stock up on nutrients; in addition, the main source of fungal diseases goes away with the leaves. It is better to carefully tear off the leaf, tugging it in different directions, and not cut it with pruning shears, otherwise a petiole will remain, which can rot in winter and the disease will spread to the stem. Experienced rose growers pluck the leaves with a “light movement of one hand.” Under no circumstances should diseased leaves be left on or under bushes. The fungal spores will overwinter well and go into the soil, and a new infection will begin at the beginning of summer. Autumn processing iron sulfatewill reduce the damage to stems by infectious burn in the spring and reduce the spread of other diseases, such as gray rot, under cover.

Many, without regard to the variety, advise before sheltering remove unripe shoots(those who did not have time to flourish). I think this opinion is wrong. Roses are different from each other, and if for h/g and floribunda successful overwintering of such shoots is reduced to zero, then for bushes (especially English) and climbers it is quite likely. It is only necessary to cover the rose early, before the first frost, because temperatures even down to -6 will destroy unripe shoots.

The next stage of preparing roses for shelter is the most difficult. It has been established that It is better to overwinter bushes that are not cut under cover, but rather bent ones. But not all roses can be bent down; the shoots of adult h/g and floribunda do not bend, so they have to be cut to the height of the shelter, leaving about 30-40 cm. Usually, in the year of planting, all roses bend down without effort, after the second, some produce strong, rigid, erect, unyielding shoots. Then the bending is stretched into 2-3 steps. The bush must be tied with rope. By bending the rose at an angle, for example 45 degrees, you can leave it in this position for a day or more, then lower it another 20 degrees. and finally bend it completely. You can secure the shoots in a semi-recumbent state using a skewer stuck into the ground and a rope, periodically shortening it or wrapping it around the skewer.

It is advisable to bend the entire bush at once and certainly in one direction, so as not to break it in half. It is not necessary to lower the branches all the way to the ground, but the lower they lie, the better for wintering. The shoots need to be fixed near the ground. Many people use metal staples or hooks for this. It's bad if cold metal will be in contact with the shoots all winter, and I use wooden slingshots. The part of the slingshot that sticks in should be long so that it does not break out of the ground, and the second should be short, so as to only catch a shoot (or several).

It happens that varieties with particularly rigid branches do not want to bend, then it is better to dig up the rose from the side in which it itself tends. Next, the bush is gradually tilted, bending not the stems, but the root. It is more elastic. The top is sprinkled with earth to prevent it from freezing. It is advisable to lay the lashes not on bare ground, but on spruce or pine spruce branches or polystyrene foam. You can put empty ones under the fold plastic bottles so that in winter the snow does not crush the shelter and break the branches. Standard roses are also dug in the same way, tilting the standard to one side, onto the bottom graft.

Covering methods

Hilling bushes with earth and covering them with spruce branches. The method is the most unreliable, but easy, and also allows you to save at least the graft, from which new shoots grow over the season. At the same time, I note that weakly winter-hardy pruned roses and floribundas overwinter under such shelter with serious losses. After all, in middle lane There are practically no winters without thaws, when the snow around the stems melts and falls on their cuts, which begin to absorb water.

For clarity, conduct an experiment: drop water on a cut of a rose and you will see how quickly it is absorbed. If this happens in winter, then with the next cold snap the water will freeze and tear the stem or bark. This is why frostbites appear on the stems. Only bent bush or climbing roses, which do not have cuts, overwinter more or less tolerably under spruce branches.

Air-dry shelter. Roses are covered with 10 cm of dry soil or covered with leaves of oak, chestnut, and maple that do not rot over the winter. A strong wire frame made of reinforcing mesh and roofing material or glassine is laid on top. As a variation of this method, instead of a wire frame they put wooden boards end-to-end (in a hut) and put a film on top. The shelter turns out to be waterproof, which is what roses require. However, its tightness is a big drawback. With sudden warming, condensation instantly forms on the film and on the roses. To avoid this, during a thaw you should definitely open the ends of the shelter for ventilation, which is only available to the lucky ones who live next to their roses. This method has proven itself well in Siberia and the Urals, where thaws almost never occur.

Shelter of roses lutrasil (agrotex, spunbond) is the most popular method. Take one of these materials with a density of 60 grams. per meter in 2 layers, which is quite enough for successful wintering. Of course, to hold the lutrasil over the pruned roses, you still need a frame, otherwise the shoots, under the weight of the snow, will break through the material, end up outside, get wet and freeze. To keep the covering material at the required distance and create roses air gap, greenhouse arcs are usually placed over bent bushes. They place them densely, preferably crosswise, and fasten them together with straight slats so that they do not move apart in different directions under the weight of the snow.

I make boxes from boards for cut roses. I cut thick supports 50-60 cm long and dig them 10-15 cm into the ground around the perimeter of the rose garden. On them I place short boards across the width of the rose garden, and then lay long ones perpendicularly.

The base is strong and can withstand the weight of any snow. All that remains is to throw lutrasil over the frame and press it to the ground with stones, bricks, boards or pegs.

It might be easier to work with arcs, but both methods have their drawbacks. The shelter along the arcs turns out to be high, and it does not immediately go under the snow, and since the sides of the shelter are semicircular, the snow is blown off from them. It falls on a flat roof from the first snowfall for the whole winter.

However, water does not roll off it during the thaw, but stands in puddles, which naturally turn into ice when the temperature drops. But, according to my observations, this does not harm the roses much. It is better to make a roof with a slope, raising one edge of the supports higher. There is no need to make roofs for bent roses. Firstly, the very rigidity of the shoots and the slingshots with which they are secured helps to keep lutrasil without failure. Secondly, in such a rose garden I place additional supports (buckets, empty pots, firewood, stumps) so that the structure does not bend.

The structure can already be covered, but I also put a layer of spruce branches on top of the shoots, not for insulation, but so that the lutrasil does not cling to thorny branches.
This method is good for rose gardens consisting of several bushes.
If you need to cover a single rose, then just place 4 pots at the edges, put a sheet of plywood on them and throw a piece of lutrasil on top. That's it, the shelter is ready in 5 minutes. It’s even easier to place two arches crosswise over the rose and attach lutrasil to them with clothespins. But, however, it should be remembered that lonely roses always winter worse, unlike group plantings.

Roses are deservedly considered royal flowers. Their beauty and aroma cannot be compared with any other flower. In order for roses to bloom and delight with their beauty year after year, they need proper care, which includes preparation for winter.

Caring for roses in the fall includes pruning, fertilizing and preparing the bushes for winter period. Each type of rose requires a special approach and in each case their care is different from the other.

In order to simplify the process of covering these plants, especially miniature ones, polyanthus, hybrid tea varieties and Floribunda roses, which quite often reach 2 meters in height.

There are several types of pruning:

• Short - shoots are cut to 5-15 centimeters from the surface of the earth. There are 2-3 buds left on the stem near the ground. This pruning is well tolerated by densely branching polyanthus roses.
  In the first year after planting, cascading roses are pruned to 15 centimeters, and then pruning becomes more moderate.
• Medium - shoots are shortened to 30-40 centimeters. There are 5 buds left on them. This pruning is applied to hybrid tea, Floribunda, remontant, and Pernetian roses.
• Long - trimming the tips of the shoots. On cut stems 0.7-1 meter long, 8-10 buds remain. This is how park, climbing small-flowered, Bengal, and Old English rose bushes are shortened.
• In climbing large-flowered and bush roses perennial shoots are cut by 1/3 to enhance the growth of young branches.
• Ground cover roses only require sanitary pruning.
• Bushes with small flowers do not need to be pruned at all; the plants only need to pinch out their growing points.

The timing of pruning bushes depends on the weather and climate. The air temperature should be no higher than 5 degrees cold so that after pruning the bush does not begin to grow.

When pruning, shoots are shortened using pruners. The cut is made 5 millimeters above the bud growing from outside stele. All cuts are made at an angle of 45 degrees. Weakened, damaged, incorrectly growing, crooked, dry shoots and light unformed shoots are completely removed. The cut areas are treated with any antiseptic or wood ash powder.

If plants are not pruned, their growing points are pinched. During pinching, the buds and young, poorly developed shoots are broken, but not completely removed. Then they will simply dry and can be removed completely.

After autumn pruning roses, the plants need feeding. It is done half a month after removing excess shoots. At the same time, we must not forget that from the beginning of flowering until the end of the season, nitrogen is excluded from the composition of fertilizing, which accelerates the growth of green mass.

In autumn, magnesium, potassium and phosphate fertilizers, strengthening shoots and root system plants and stopping the growth of the top part of roses.

For feeding, take 10 grams of potassium sulfate, 10 grams of magnesium sulfate, 25 grams of superphosphate and 2.5 grams of boric acid per bucket of water. The solution is added to the plants at the root. Fertilizing is carried out after watering the bush. Funds are enough for 3-4 square meters landing For foliar feeding 15 grams of potassium monophosphate and 15 grams of superphosphate are used per 3 buckets of water.

A week after fertilizing, the tops of the shoots are pinched for faster lignification of the stems.

When the air temperature is below 0 degrees, sap flow in the upper part of the rose bushes stops and the plants fall asleep. With warming, sap flow in roses resumes and with a new cold snap, the moisture on the stems freezes, and the resulting ice breaks the stems. The rupture sites are affected by microorganisms that cause diseases.

To prevent this from happening, experienced gardeners They try to prevent this situation and prepare flower beds with roses for the winter before the onset of persistent cold weather. In each region, preparation for winter is carried out at its own specific time, which cannot be missed.

Preparing rose bushes for winter in the Moscow region begins in mid-September - early October. First, fertilizers are applied under the bushes, then watering and digging of the earth around the plants are stopped. Leaves are removed from the stems, pruning is done, and the roots are covered. When frost occurs, the bushes are covered with a protective shelter.

The bushes are covered in October. The dates may change depending on the weather conditions of the current year.

In the Urals

In the Urals, rose bushes are prepared for winter at the end of August - beginning of September. The final covering of roses is carried out no later than the beginning of October. By this time, the plants are completely ready for winter.

In Siberia, roses are prepared for winter based on the weather forecast. Preparation begins in August. In September the plants take cover protective materials before spring comes. Snow in this region is an additional shelter from the cold, which additionally retains heat inside the covering materials that protect the bushes.

In the Leningrad region

In the Leningrad region, preparing roses for wintering begins in early September.

1. At the beginning of autumn, flowers are cut and dry buds are torn off.
2. In mid-September, the bushes are fertilized with potassium-magnesium fertilizers.
3. By the end of September, the yellowed leaves on the bush are torn off.
4. Then the bushes are pruned.
5. With the onset of stable frosts, the plants are covered with any covering material.

Before preparing roses for winter, regardless of the region and plant variety, watering the plants is reduced and loosening the soil stops completely. If there are prolonged rains, the roses are covered with a film so that the bushes do not become waterlogged.

Sheltering plants for the winter, after all preparatory measures, is carried out at an air temperature of 5 degrees cold.

Climbing

Climbing roses are not pruned (except large-flowered ones). Only dry and damaged shoots are removed. Large-flowered climbing roses are shortened by 1/3 of the length of the shoots.

The ground around the bushes is cleared of debris. The leaves on the bushes are falling off. Rose branches are removed from the supports, tied and processed fungicidal drug. A sheet of roofing material, polystyrene foam or spruce branches is placed under the lashes to protect the shoots from rotting. A layer of sand or earth is poured on top.

The shoots bend over. When frost sets in, the top of the roses is covered with roofing felt, the edges are secured so that the cover does not blow away with the wind.

A more reliable and labor-intensive option for covering climbing roses for cold regions is the shield method. For it, take 2 wooden or plywood panels, up to 0.9 meters wide and a length equal to the length of the bush. The structure is installed on top of the fixed branches. Wedges are driven into the ground to secure the roof from moving. A film is stretched on top or spruce branches are laid out.

You can also use the method of tying bushes for shelter. In this case, the shoots are covered with spruce branches and spunbond. The shelter is pressed to the ground with boards, bricks and tarpaulins.

When preparing these roses, the leaves are first plucked from the bottom of the bushes. When trimming the stems, 25-30 centimeters are removed from the total length. The lower part of the stems and the soil around the plants is treated with a 3% solution of copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture. The ground around the bush is covered with a 15-centimeter layer of sand. Sand protects roots from freezing.

When the air temperature outside drops below 0 degrees, you can begin to cover the top of the plants. The remaining foliage on the shoots is removed.

The shoots are pruned and treated with any pesticides. After this, they can be covered with any insulating materials, such as peat, compost, dry soil. You can use high-moor peat for shelter. The peat will maintain a constant temperature and protect the bush from moisture. The top of the shelter is covered with specially prepared wooden shields or spruce branches. The spruce branches additionally protect the bushes from rodents.

Hybrid tea varieties of roses require gentle pruning of 10 centimeters. When covering, a protective frame is built over the shortened shoots of roses.

Before cold weather, all foliage is removed from the lower part of the bushes, shoots and soil are treated with 3% copper sulfate. Tree trunk circle is dug up and covered with a 15-20 cm layer of sand. The shoots are tied, bent to the ground and secured with special metal brackets. If the stems do not bend, then they are cut to a height of 0.4 meters.

At the first frost, the remaining leaves and immature stems are removed from the plants. Frames are formed from boards, plywood or panels. They are covered with agrofibre. The ends remain free. When frosty weather sets in, they close.

A film is spread on top of the covering material, which will protect the bushes from snow and moisture. The edges of the film from below are fixed with bricks or boards. This method of covering bushes is not used on soils that are too wet, since in this case moisture will collect inside the shelter, which will harm the plants.

Frost-resistant park varieties are practically not pruned. Before wintering, for better flowering all strong growths are shortened by 5-10 centimeters. In addition, damaged and dry stems are removed.

Before the onset of the first frost, the bushes are covered with 15-20 centimeters of peat or soil.
The stems bend to the ground. A frame of spruce branches or boards is formed on top, which is covered with a layer of kraft paper, burlap or spunbond, which will protect the bush from temperature changes.

Ground cover roses require shelter if the region has frosty and little snow winters. With a large layer of snow, the bushes winter well without additional equipment.

If the winter is cold, or snow does not fall for a long time, the rose bushes are covered with spruce or pine branches, and agrofibre is spread on top. The shelter is secured with bricks or boards, or sprinkled with earth.

In another option, to cover the roses above the bush, you can form a frame of arcs, and stretch agrofibre and a film with holes for air circulation on top.

When creating a structure, you need to make sure that it is stable and can withstand gusts of wind and the weight of precipitation.

1. The main task of flower growers with the onset of autumn is to stop the growth of the above-ground parts of roses. For this purpose, the composition of fertilizers applied to plants changes its composition starting in July. Fertilizers should not contain nitrogen!
2. Bending down rose branches can occur in several stages, over several days, so as not to break the woody shoots. This must be done when positive temperature, since in the cold the stems become brittle.
3. Roses can be left in a bent position, without shelter, for no more than 2 weeks. Then the bushes are covered.
4. Roses take shelter with the onset of the first frost. If the bushes are closed before frost sets in, they will high humidity air will begin to rot and disappear.
5. To cover rose bushes, you can take not only peat, compost, sawdust and soil, but also dry oak or birch leaves. The collected foliage must be free from pests and fungi.
6. When covering roses with sawdust, a protective frame is built on top of the embankment. Sawdust has good thermal insulation properties, but once saturated with moisture, they freeze and form an airtight layer. Harmful organisms and mold multiply under the crust. Sawdust also increases the acidity of the soil, and the bush weakens and dies. If the soil acidity is low, such a shelter will not cause harm and can be used without fear.
7. The roof of any frame above the roses should have a slight slope so that water does not accumulate on it.

How to prepare roses for winter: video

Roses, like everyone else perennials, require preparation before winter. From doing everything correctly preparatory work By winter, not only the flowering of roses next year depends, but also the overall health of the bush. Only by following all the rules can you grow beautiful and fragrant flowers in your garden.