How to convert a kerosene lamp into a heater. Homemade heater - for the house, the country house, the garage, for a tent on a hike and for temporary heating. Types of kerosene heaters

Among the huge number of different heaters used for summer cottages, kerosene heaters caught our attention. We decided to find out more detailed information about them and tell our readers.

  1. Advantages and Disadvantages
  2. How to choose?
  3. Customers' opinions

Installation of diesel and kerosene heaters

Portable kerosene heaters consist of components:

  • fuel tank;
  • bowl with wick;
  • knob for adjusting the wick;
  • fuel volume measurement sensor;
  • burner shell;
  • burner.

When the heater is operating, the flame on the wick should be slightly cut by the mesh (shell) and look out. This working position can be achieved by lighting the wick and adjusting the flame height with a special handle. The shell gradually warms up and begins to radiate heat into the room in the infrared range.
After the shell and walls of the chamber are completely heated, the combustion process itself moves from the wick to kerosene vapor over a certain distance. This combustion process almost completely burns the fuel, but does not allow the wick fabric to burn out. Diesel and kerosene heaters are convenient to use for heating a garage or tent.

The smell of combustion products comes only in the first time after ignition, when the process of complete combustion of gases is not yet complete, and at the moment of extinguishing.

Today on the market you can purchase devices that differ in control methods, type of fuel used and method of heat distribution.

  • Heaters without electronics are self-contained and have performed well in places where there is no electrical network. They are often taken on hikes to heat a car or tent.
  • Electronically controlled devices are distinguished by their ability to maintain a constant temperature, ignition, fuel supply, extinguishing and other useful functions.
  • Heaters running on kerosene.
  • Diesel and kerosene appliances.
  • With a converter method of heat transfer.
  • With built-in fan.
  • Reflex heater.

Advantages and disadvantages of kerosene heaters

Like any other equipment, a kerosene heater has its positive and negative sides.

All the advantages of using kerosene heaters:

  • autonomy of the device;
  • almost complete absence of smell and smoke during operation;
  • excellent mobility;
  • durability of wicks;
  • a large number of options for electric models;
  • The appliance can be used to heat and cook food.

Cons kerosene heaters:

  • vapors and the smell of used fuel during ignition and extinguishing of the device;
  • high fuel prices;
  • flame.

Review of kerosene heaters from different manufacturers

Kerosene heaters made in South Korea under the Kerona brand are widely represented on the Russian market. For comparison, we will look at several of the most popular models.

This small model is used for heating small rooms both technical and residential. The unique design of the device makes it possible to use it even to heat a tent without any risk of fire. What makes a device so fireproof?

Design features:

  • It is impossible to accidentally get burned in the working chamber due to the installed safety grille;
  • fuel does not leak from the tank even when the heater accidentally spills due to the protection installed on it;
  • matches are not needed for ignition because there is an electrical system;
  • Triggers if accidentally tipped over automatic system extinguishing.

Good combustion of the wick is ensured by the use of special fiberglass. On top part The appliance can be equipped with a special lid for cooking. The level of heat transfer is adjusted by decreasing or increasing the flame. For an hour of operation of the device you need only 0.25 liters of kerosene. Tank volume 5.3 liters.

"Kerona" WKH-3300

Except everyone design features the previous model, the Kerona WKH-300 kerosene heater has additional features.

  1. First of all, it is a more powerful tank with a volume of 7.2 liters.
  2. Secondly, there is a special upper reflector that allows you to redirect the heat flow. When installed, heat moves down to the floor and rises from there, resulting in uniform heating of the room.
  3. Thirdly - heating elements made from stainless steel.
  4. Fourthly, there is a double fuel tank, which creates guaranteed protection against fire when capsizing.

In addition to South Korean products, Japanese kerosene heaters are widely represented on the Russian market.

Toyotomi RCA 37A

Used for heating small country houses, cottages and garages. Japanese kerosene heaters differ from South Korean models in their stationary installation. The devices are equipped with a triple security system and automatic ignition. Fuel consumption per hour of operation is 0.27 liters of kerosene, the tank capacity is 4.7 liters. They are used to heat rooms with an area of ​​no more than 38 m2.

Toyotomi Omni 230

If you need to heat a room up to 70 m2, use this model. Double wall fuel tank, automatic ignition, extinguishing, temperature control and maintenance. Consumes 0.46 liters per hour. fuel, tank volume is 7.5 liters.

Neoclima KO 2.5 and Neoclima KO 3.0

Unlike Toyotomi kerosene heaters, Chinese Neoclima devices run on diesel and kerosene. Their fuel consumption is low - from 0.25 to 0.27 liters. per hour With one tank refill, you can heat the room for about 14 hours. Installing a catalyst flask makes the exhaust of combustion products minimal. The device is equipped with electric ignition from batteries.

How to choose a kerosene heater?

Most often, kerosene heaters are used when hiking, hunting or fishing. If you decide to install this type of heaters in your dacha, you need to consider the following:

  1. Compare the ratio of the square footage of the heated room to the fuel consumption of heaters from different manufacturers.
  2. Buy kerosene heaters only from stores where they can give you a replacement if they are found to be defective. In many models, the tightness of the seams is low and kerosene leakage is often observed.
  3. Be sure to read and follow the manufacturer's operating instructions. The majority of device models run on lighting kerosene, which contains a minimum amount of soot-forming substances. There are devices that operate equally on both kerosene and diesel. Information on the use of different fuels is indicated in the technical data sheet.

Failure to follow the instructions for using the device can lead to serious consequences.

Customers' opinions

We asked for opinions and reviews of kerosene heaters from customers. This is what they write and say.

I spend a lot of time in the garage, and in winter I can’t do without heating. I chose Kerona for myself. I light it on the street. Even in severe frost, working in the garage is comfortable and you can take off your outerwear. Ivanov Danil, Uryupinsk.

We bought a Korean Kerona 2310 for our dacha. The test was successful, no leaks. I worked the device all day in a room of 20 m2. Half of the kerosene remained in the tank. Good combination prices and quality. Anastasia Nezhnaya, Ryazan.

I love winter fishing. My friend and I bought Neoclyma. We fish in comfort. We are sitting in a tent near the hole, and next to us there is a kerosene stove on a small fire. You don't even have to wear a jacket. Thanks to the manufacturers. Andrey Klima, Tula.

Now you know how to choose a kerosene heater, what to look for when choosing a particular model, read consumer reviews about the most best models. Make your choice and your dacha will be warm even in the most severe frost.

Video review of Chinese and Korean kerosene heater

I want to tell my story of many years of selection (selection, design) of a heater for a fisherman’s winter tent...

To paraphrase the saying, the Siberian is not the one who does not freeze, but the one who is well equipped, or rather prepared...
And this is especially true for winter fishing in the vastness of Siberian rivers.
You have to fish even at minus 23-25, sometimes with wind.
And in such a situation, it is uncomfortable without a tent; it saves you from the piercing northern wind.
You climb into a tent installed above a pre-tested, catchable hole, close the entrance - and fish for yourself for pleasure...
The wind doesn’t bother you, neither do the “assholes”, make yourself comfortable and push...
But without additional source The heat is still uncomfortable, the temperature in the tent is only a couple of degrees higher than outside.
It was never possible to “breathe” again...
For a complete buzz you need an additional HEATER...

I have an ordinary fishing tent: Chinese automatic.

Good for everyone: weight, speed of disassembly and assembly, easily enough for three seasons...
Minus: low in height and bends in strong winds. But its price negates these shortcomings, compared to other large tents, which cost significantly more.
I have had it for a long time and it has helped me out in various weather situations.
At first, like everyone else, I tried to heat it with household candles, but it was very inconvenient.
Candles without fixation are always ready to fall; it is difficult to install vertically on an uneven surface under a tent; as a result, they burn out quickly, and stains from melted paraffin remain on the floor of the tent.
And the effect from one candle is not enough, it even turns out worse... Steam from breathing... If you don’t string bloodworms, you can’t see the fishing line, as a result, an increase in temperature of two to four degrees is eaten up by the effect of steam that interferes with the visibility and the need to monitor the vertical installation of the candle.
I decided to improve the heating of the tent with candles, or rather their design:

I bought molds, melted the paraffin, installed two or three wicks in each in the hope that this solution would eliminate all the shortcomings of the previous version.
But the effect remained approximately the same: the temperature in the tent increased slightly, and the steam from the breath remained. The only plus is that the wax burned out completely in the mold, the candle did not fall and, as a result, there were no paraffin drops at the bottom of the tent.

In parallel, I tried using dry fuel for heating:

On the one hand, better than candles:
The temperature in the tent has risen, nothing is dripping onto the floor, but...
There are significant disadvantages. Dry fuel smokes and emits a lot of carbon monoxide; you have to ventilate it to avoid headaches.
Another downside is that the tablets burn out quickly; on average, you have to refill the next one every ten minutes.
As a result, you can’t concentrate on fishing; in addition to controlling the nod, you often have to be distracted by the combustion process...
This heating option didn’t suit me either...
We need to look for something else...
On the Internet I somehow came across videos on the use of alcohol burners by “bourgeois” for heating and heating water.
How cool... Apparently, this is exactly what I need... I thought at first...

And he began to peel and make holes in all sorts of cans, building alcohol heaters:

Did a lot of things... different designs

During testing for staircase entrance, this burner design showed good results in terms of heat transfer and combustion time.

But in field conditions, this option proved to be very inconvenient to use.
Firstly, there is a difficulty: you need to heat a container of alcohol until vapor appears, which is not so easy in the cold and dangerous in a tent.
Secondly, the difficulty and precision in filling the container: if you fill it too little, it doesn’t burn for long; if you fill it too much, the liquid begins to boil and splash out, which can cause the tent to catch fire.
Thirdly, it is problematic to extinguish such a structure urgently (it is impossible to blow it out), just wait until it burns out completely.
After seeing the fire hazard of this structure in real life (once after liquid boiled and splashed out on the floor, the three of us urgently evacuated, or rather, jumped out of the tent, almost tearing it apart).
In the end alcohol burner It didn’t fit our conditions for use while fishing... It’s better to take alcohol internally for warming up... It’s warm for the body and good for the soul...

And then somehow, on a not very catchy hole, at a temperature of minus 25 outside, heating the tent with dry fuel for 50-70 rubles. per pack, changing tablets every 10-12 minutes and breathing paraffin fumes, a thought came into my head: something needs to be changed... The previously tested heaters are not satisfactory...

Having scoured the Internet, I came across a solution: infrared gas heater tents, but of impressive size...
And it’s called compact...

But it’s hard to carry such a halabuda with you on foot (it weighs more than 2 kg), and it costs from 1,500 to 3,000 rubles, respectively...

But all this is not suitable for those who like to search for fish on foot, it’s difficult...
We need to find an easier type:

The burner is beautiful, well, simply good, and so is the price... under 2000 or more rubles.
Not our price...
I still caught fire with a gas heater in the tent...
User reviews simply recommend...
In the end, I found what I was looking for - an inexpensive nozzle for gas cylinder:

This is a disassembled burner. The price is only 225 rubles. (our!)…
It is carried assembled in a small bag, designed by default for mounting on a threaded gas cylinder (RUB 130-150).

When using an adapter, this burner can also be mounted on collet cylinders (they are cheaper, 45-55 rubles).

I bought the adapter separately at the nearest fishing store (130-170 rubles)

This is a torch on a collet cylinder with an adapter to the torch assembly

And here under steam, the gas is lit....
Tests were carried out in a cold interfloor space. In operating mode, the burner produces heat, but not very much...

In the end, I realized: the burner is designed by the manufacturers to heat containers located directly above the burner flame, and not to heat the room...
It is necessary to increase its efficiency of heat transfer to the surrounding space, more precisely for heating.
To do this, it is necessary to attach a mesh heat dissipator to the burner of the following type:

There is a ready-made one for sale. But again, it is expensive (900-1200 rubles).
We'll do it ourselves... Picked it up necessary tools:

For the primary semicircular flame diffuser, I found and bought an ordinary household strainer:

Fasteners for the burner, from pieces cut according to a galvanized template:

You just mark it, take a small supply and cut it out...

This is what happened:

This is with an adapter for a collet cylinder.

When the gas was lit, the effect of heat dissipation was achieved, but the heat around was not as good as we would like.
In the end I decided to finish it...
I saw a metal mesh from my neighbor in the garage and begged him Thanks a lot)…

To fit the dimensions, I cut out a piece of the required size from galvanized steel using metal scissors:

Applying a “strainer” to the sheet, I noted the required dimensions of the top and bottom and cut it off:

On the top platform I drilled 3 mm holes around the perimeter for greater traction:

Bent the fasteners, placing them on the mesh,

And fastened it with rivets.

When finished, I checked it on a collet cylinder...

And on a threaded gas cylinder

The heat transfer effect exceeded all expectations...

From a conventional burner without a nozzle, the heat is felt only at this approach:

And with a nozzle infrared hand It already burns at this distance:

Close hand (like a simple gas burner) it is simply impossible to bring it to a homemade infrared heater.
I tested, as I already mentioned, in the entrance, as a result of working for 30 minutes, a significant increase in the ambient temperature was felt.

It looks like the infrared burner is ready, I need to try it fishing...
In the end, I took it plus two cylinders, one collet, the other threaded.

The exit was on the first ice, so the walk from the shore to the holes took more than an hour.
We found fishing holes for perch and set up tents.
But while we were walking, the cylinders froze (it was -15 outside, and they were lying in a fishing box...)

It was not possible to light the collet at all.
The threaded one (according to the instructions it works at temperatures down to -20 degrees) gave a fire to the burner, but weakly, siphoning more gas, in the end it was turned off so as not to inhale in the tent...
As a result, I got a problem with gas freezing in cylinders at low temperatures.
It had to be solved somehow...
After returning from fishing, I turned to the forum and found an option there:
We need a passive cylinder heater that uses direct heat from the burner...
At first I decided to save money by taking it for heating copper wire large section:

But this design did not cope with its tasks; the heat, even in “accessible” conditions, did not bring the cylinder to the required level. operating temperature.
In the end, I tried this temporary structure: a copper busbar screwed to a cylinder.

The effect was: after half an hour of combustion, this design reached the desired mode...
In the future, I will not consider threaded cylinders for winter fishing, since they are expensive and it is not easy to heat them.

I modified it and attached a quick-release fastener to the cylinder to the plate:

There is an effect... The burner burns and gives heat...

P.S. Design improvements and upgrades in the next article...

Addition (revisions) to the article, as of today:
I accidentally came across a stand for a cylinder in a fishing store:

Holds up great...

Everything seems to be perfect, there is enough heat, the burner burns perfectly, but:
When testing in the fields, several minor shortcomings (inconveniences) were revealed in the vertical design of the infrared tent heater on a collet cylinder.
1. The structure itself turned out to be high. With the use of the stand, the danger of a vertical collet cylinder falling has approached zero... Although when in the “rush” of fishing you can drop it with the wrong movement, which can lead to a fire...
2. The second inconvenience of a tall design is its use in a Chinese machine, whose walls are flat and not vertical, so the tall heater cannot be moved to the wall. You have to install it closer to the center, which ultimately significantly reduces the working (catching) area. There is a possibility that the fishing line will get on the hot burner when fishing quickly. As a result, change the already configured and tested (fishing) tackle...
3. Thirdly, during design it was necessary infrared heater fasten with two plates on the burner divider screw connection. This decision was due to the vertical design itself, so that the red-hot heater would not accidentally fall. As a result, you won’t be able to quickly remove the infrared heater; you need to take a screwdriver with you on a fishing trip and unscrew three bolts in the cold without losing the nuts in order to switch the heater to gas stove(for example, cook dumplings right while fishing)…
But these shortcomings of the vertical design of the heater are only for me and my fishing equipment.
For those who in their forays use tents of a larger area and a slightly different design than the “Chinese” ones (for example, Scout umbrella tents) and do not bother with preparing a hot lunch directly from the hole, then the vertical solution, I think, has its advantages over the horizontal : the area and weight of the structure is smaller...

Perhaps in a couple of years, when the “Chinese” one is completely unusable, I’ll buy a “Maverick” type tent; This is where a vertical heater comes in handy...

And today, after analyzing it, I decided to splurge a little more and bought it for 300 rubles. burner with a horizontal cylinder arrangement.

I bought a new mesh for the primary heater diffuser. By design, it had to be smaller in diameter than for the vertical one. I searched for a long time, but found it for only 20 rubles, and the handle of the strainer fell off by itself.

By analogy, I cut out the bottom plate from galvanized steel for an infrared heater, making small changes:

These are four longitudinal fasteners that will hold the heater head on the burner stops.

And cutouts for fastening the sphere of the first mesh.

We bend them, insert the hemisphere of the mesh and bend it, fixing it.

The design of the top of the heater is the same as that of the vertical one:

We attach it to the side mesh with rivets.

A few more steps (I made a passive heating, securing it with a plumbing clamp), and the infrared heater on a horizontal collet cylinder is almost ready.
And tried...

I paid special attention to the stand for horizontal positioning of the cylinder. In the summer, to ensure its even position, shelves, chips, and pebbles are placed under it. But on ice this solution is not suitable.
I cut it out of polystyrene foam left over from making fishing boxes with my own hands.

I fixed the stand by attaching it to the clamp using three turns of regular electrical tape.

In the end this is what happened:

The heater in the “traveling” state, as you can see, takes up little space.

The infrared heater was protected from deformation when moving with a hard cover.

The structure is pre-assembled, it only takes a minute to assemble...
The problem with the horizontal design is that the passive heater is located on top of the cylinder and its heat is irrationally used for heating.
Therefore, I had to use a “thermos” - an ordinary old woolen sock - to distribute heat evenly throughout the cylinder.

The horizontal design of the heater is conveniently placed in the “Chinese”, the effect of it is completely satisfactory…
Lightweight, compact, the cylinder lasts for 3-4 hours, you can even cook food on a burner, fireproof, does not “siphon” gas, fits the size of the tent...

I like the result.

P.S. Additions regarding carbon monoxide...
This design was designed for use in sea fishing during one daylight hours... The main criterion is minimum weight and efficiency... In the "China" in which I am using it now, there is a "dormer" window on the roof and the possibility of not completely closing the entrance with zippers. As a result, you can quickly regulate the “flowing” ventilation in the tent.. In this way, additional access. I haven’t even used oxygen while fishing in a tent yet, because... In the final (modified) version of the design, I did not feel any fumes or smell of gas. I am sure that in this case of using a tent for up to 4 hours of continuous operation, it is completely safe.
I didn’t use this design at night... I agree, if you don’t set up “flowing” ventilation, and lying at the bottom of a sealed tent, you might get burned, although this is questionable... How much carbon monoxide can be produced from burning “completely” is only 400 grams of gas???.

How do you heat your fishing tent?

A kerosene heater will help in cases where traditional methods cannot heat the room. In such cases, they usually try to find a convenient and economical heating method.

A device that runs on kerosene is exactly what you need.

Such a device will be easy to use in places where heating is not traditionally provided. You will be able not only to warm up during any work, but also to prevent your car from freezing in severe frosts.

Good reviews about this device come from lovers of picnics and outings. There, too, sometimes you really need to warm up. The wkh 2310 kerosene heater makes it possible to heat a tent well and inexpensively.

The Japanese kerosene heater Kerona has the following advantages for which it is definitely worth purchasing:

  • Mobility. It can be complete or partial, it all depends on the configuration of the device. The heater can only run on kerosene, but can also be equipped with additional functions, which require electricity to operate.
  • Economical. Kerosene costs relatively little, so refueling the device with such fuel will be affordable for everyone. In addition, the device operates using infrared radiation. This makes it possible to save money, because heating will only apply to those items that you need warm. The entire mass of air in the room will not heat up, and resources will remain little wasted.
  • There will be very little combustion products when operating such a device, since everything is taken into account in the device. The fact is that it is possible due to the combustion of not kerosene, but its vapor, which greatly reduces the share of emitted harmful substances.

1 Review of kerosene heater K Erona - video

  • This heater has high efficiency, that is, it will not take much time to heat the room with its help.
  • Also, the kerosene heater WKH 2310 can be used for cooking. This is convenient for fishing, hunting, in the country and in other similar situations. True, you can cook the most simple dishes, but in nature there is usually no time for frills.
  • Wide range of applications. Infrared kerosene heaters will be available in the autumn, and even in the winter, if necessary. To do this, you just need to throw it into your car or even a spacious bag. Thus, you will forget about cold country evenings, because you can warm up even outside - an infrared heater gives you this opportunity.
  • Fire safety. Almost all kerosene heaters are equipped with a system that turns off the device if it tips over.

2 Types of kerosene heaters

Kerosene heaters WKH-2310 are manufactured in wide range. They are divided into types depending on configuration, functions and other factors.

Kerosene heaters are:

  1. No electronics. Such devices are mobile and can be used anywhere. They are less secure.
  2. With electronics. Kerosene heaters can be equipped with automatic on/off, a security system, and additional fans, which require electricity. Such devices cannot be used in the field, since there is no power supply there.

Kerosene heaters are also divided into:

  1. Kerosene, which operate exclusively on such fuel.
  2. . They operate on two types of fuel; you can choose based on cost and your own preferences.

There may also be models with and without a mirror reflector.

Different versions of heating devices have different volumes of fuel tanks, the capacity of which determines how long everything will work without refueling.

2.1 Do-it-yourself kerosene heater? Forward!

If you really want to make a kerosene heater with your own hands, then why not do it? However, it is worth noting that you will have to try to ensure that the device you make yourself is safe and effective.

To work, you will need tin, metal scissors, rivets, a drawer can for kerosene, a strainer, a metal mesh and a burner, which is best purchased in a store.

  1. The first step is to cut a circle with ears out of tin and attach a burner to it.
  2. Then you need to attach a small strainer on top; do this using the ears that are on the tin mug.
  3. Cut out two more circles with ears from the tin. Add a well-aimed metal mesh there and make a mesh cylinder with your own hands.
  4. Drill holes on the circles of the cylinder.
  5. Attach the cylinder to the sieve.
  6. Attach the entire structure to the can. You will pour kerosene into it.

So, the wkh kerosene heaters with your own hands are ready. In order for them to work, you will need to pour fuel into the can and light the burner. With the help of a sieve, the air will be distributed more evenly.

Heating units liquid fuels have been used by humans for more than a hundred years and still do not lose popularity. Consumer requirements for the quality of heating equipment for the home are constantly growing, so manufacturers not only improve the designs of the units they produce, but also regularly replenish the market with new types of liquid fuel heaters with increased efficiency and functionality.

Infrared heat generators: on the left – kerosene, on the right – diesel heater.

Despite the differences in design and potential, all liquid fuel heaters are united by a common factor - their operation requires increased attention from the consumer and compliance with certain rules fire safety. However, these difficulties are compensated by the advantages of liquid fuel units; you just need to correctly navigate their characteristics when choosing a model - choose a device based on specific application conditions.

Let's consider one type of heating equipment - a kerosene heater from the perspective of comparison with heat generators operating on other liquid energy carriers.


Domestic heat generators using kerosene

Kerosene heaters

Kerosene is an oily, transparent, flammable liquid, colorless or with a yellowish tint, produced from petroleum. Without going into details of the physical characteristics, the potential of this substance can be judged at least by such areas of application as fuel (or its component) for rocket and gas turbine aircraft engines, as well as glass and porcelain firing furnaces.

In everyday life, kerosene is the most common energy carrier of all types of liquid fuel, as it is used in heating units operated in residential, utility, utility and industrial premises. The higher the purification class of this fuel, the fewer products combustion is released into the air when the heater is used.

Several brands of aviation fuel (TS-1, T-1, T-2, T-1S) and lighting kerosene (KO-20, KO-22, KO-25, KO-30) are used to fill household heaters.


The main brands of kerosene used for household heaters

The characteristics of aviation fuel are high, but its price does not allow this composition to be classified as a combustible material widely available to consumers, so lighting kerosene is mainly used in home heaters.

Operating principle and design of household kerosene heaters

Kerosene heaters are heat generators that heat a room using infrared radiation. IR rays do not affect the transit medium - air, but when they encounter obstacles along the path of propagation, they increase the intensity of the movement of molecules on their surfaces, which causes an increase in temperature upper layers items. The interior, which is heated in this way, then gives off heat to the air, initiating convective currents in it.

Operating principle of infrared radiation

Conventionally, a kerosene heater consists of a housing in which the following components are located:

  • fuel tank (removable or as part of the structure);
  • electric ignition device (optional);
  • wick with emitter and combustion intensity regulator;
  • protective grille.

Kerosene from the fuel tank flows to the wick, where it burns and heats the metal mesh emitter. The intensity of combustion is regulated by a device that changes the length of the burning wick. To prevent burns from accidental contact, the infrared emitter is covered with a protective grille. There is a valve on the fuel tank lid for replacement air supply, and on the heater body there is a fuel level indicator and a unit shutdown device. For ease of movement, the heaters are equipped with folding handles or special grooves.

Depending on the design and performance class, heaters differ in functionality and, accordingly, price.

Types of kerosene heaters

Infrared kerosene heaters are manufactured in rectangular or cylindrical housings, the dimensions of which are directly proportional to their power.


Types of infrared heaters using kerosene

Rectangular devices , as a rule, are more powerful than cylindrical devices and are manufactured in the form of an aggregate, in the body of which, behind the emitter on one side, there is a reflective screen that concentrates IR radiation in the opposite direction. The heating direction of such units is adjusted manually by turning the heater in the desired direction.

The most powerful kerosene heaters with rectangular bodies are produced in the form of a floor-mounted fireplace with a removable fuel tank and battery-powered electric ignition function.


Kerosene infrared heaters in the form of fireplaces

Cylindrical heaters are produced in two types - directional and all-round heating. This line of kerosene heaters consists of units that are more compact due to the geometry of the housing. In addition, some models of cylindrical devices are used not only for heating, but also for lighting, reminiscent of the effect of performing this function gas lamp.


Cylindrical infrared liquid fuel heaters: on the left - with a built-in fan, universal (kerosene, diesel fuel), on the right - kerosene circular action

Let's look at the characteristics of kerosene heaters using the example of specific units.

Heater "Kerona" (Kerona WKH-3450)

Specifications:

  • power - 3.8 kW
  • dimensions - 50.6 × 32.5 × 32.5 cm (height x width x depth);
  • consumed fuel - aviation or lighting kerosene;
  • energy consumption - 360 g/hour
  • Fuel tank capacity - 4.8 l
  • heating area - up to 20 m2
  • electric ignition of the wick device;
  • device for switching off the device when tipping over;
  • unit weight - 12 kg;
  • manufacturer - Republic of Korea.

Infrared heating unit Kerona WKH-3450

The model is one of the most popular, due to its versatility - the ability to be used for heating both residential and warehouse, utility and utility rooms.

For use in residential premises, it is advisable to first ignite a kerosene heater outside the home, and let it work there for the first 5-7 minutes until the formation of soot stops, and then bring it into the room. However, ignition is also possible in the apartment - followed by 5-minute ventilation

Important! Fuel combustion in a heater occurs with the consumption of oxygen from the air in the room, so the heated room must be periodically ventilated - regardless of the degree of presence of the smell from burning kerosene in the home.


Schematic representation of the kerosene IR heater "Kerona" model WKH-3450

Operating principle of the heater:

  • the fuel tank is equipped with a push-action valve at the bottom, which opens when the container is installed in its regular place in the housing;
  • fuel from the tank is supplied to the base of the porous wick and impregnates it by capillary method;
  • after ignition of the wick, the combustion chamber is heated, causing the subsequent evaporation of kerosene and combustion of its vapors;
  • The mesh walls of the combustion chamber heat up to a high temperature and begin to generate infrared radiation.

Important! After heating the combustion chamber, manual adjustment of the wick operation is performed, which determines the calorific value of the heater, the intensity of consumption and the completeness of fuel combustion.


Visual method for determining the efficiency of the combustion process

Advantages infrared kerosene household fireplace heaters:

  • mobility;
  • autonomy (batteries);
  • durability, including the wick;
  • short duration of smoke formation (on/off);
  • aesthetics.

Flaws:

  • relatively high cost of heaters (from 9 thousand rubles);
  • high cost of fuel;
  • open fire factors (fire hazard, oxygen consumption from indoor air).

To get a more complete understanding of this kerosene heater, watch the video:

IR kerosene heater FUJIX M168

An economical portable device, a kind of “burner” for heating and cooking, with a body shape reminiscent of a kerosene lamp for outdoor lighting.

Specifications:

  • ignition type – electronic;
  • automatic – standard adjustable thermostat;
  • rollover shutdown system;
  • body material – metal/glass;
  • fuel/consumption – kerosene/≈ 0.25 l/hour;
  • tank capacity – 2.5 l;
  • calorific value – 2-2.5 kW;
  • operating time on one gas station -10 -12 hours;
  • dimensions - 33x33x44 cm; weight – 4.7 kg;
  • country of origin: China.

FUJIX M168 IR heater in reality, specification of components and control devices

This kerosene heater is compact, easy to move and therefore convenient for a garage, small greenhouse, country house. The device can be used provided there is sufficient space and regular ventilation.

A video comparing Chinese and Korean products will help you better navigate your purchase:

Line of liquid fuel heaters from Solarogaz:

  • "KO - 1.8 Mini";
  • “KO – 1.8 Caprice”;
  • “Software – 2.5 Mini”;
  • “Software – 2.5 Mini+”;
  • "PO - 2.5 Savo".

The listed heat generators also belong to infrared heaters, and can run on kerosene or diesel fuel. The models differ from each other not only in power and fuel consumption, but also structurally - in the profile of the firebox, its material of manufacture, and the configuration of the reflector.

Let's look at their most popular modifications.


“KO – 1.8 Mini” is a miniature liquid fuel heater with the ability to cook food.

Firebox located in a ceramic cylinder, with three sides designed for heating, on top - for placing dishes.

Characteristics of "KO - 1.8 Mini":

  • calorific power on the burner - 1.8 kW;
  • liquid fuel consumption - 0.2 l/hour;
  • tank capacity - 2.5 l;
  • operating time at one gas station - 18 hours;
  • dimensions – 30x30x30 cm;
  • weight - 4.3 kg.

Infrared heater using kerosene or diesel fuel “PO – 2.5 Savo”

In the Solarogaz line of heaters, the unit is distinguished by a steel cylinder around the hearth and a reflector surrounding the firebox on three sides. The upper part of the grid is designed to accommodate cooking utensils.

With dimensions of 37x42x32 cm, the device weighs 5.6 kg.

The calorific value of such a stove is 2.5 kW with an average fuel consumption of 0.2 l/h. The capacity of the fuel tank is 3.2 liters, which is enough for 14-18 hours of continuous operation of the heater.

The liquid fuel stove "PO - 2.5 Savo" is effective for heating apartments, small country houses and country houses, but the power of the units used in the buildings must correspond to the area of ​​the heated premises, and the open fire of the furnace of the units requires periodic ventilation of the rooms. The device copes even better with heating a garage, small greenhouses, and heating and cooking food.

Operating rules


Diesel gun - diesel fuel heater

The use of diesel fuel for heating is accompanied by a large release of combustion products into environment than heating with kerosene, so mini-stoves from the Solarogaz company should not be used in stationary housing if they are refueled with diesel - there will be a smell in the air, and a yellowish coating will appear on the walls over time.

Considering the price attractiveness of diesel fuel, diesel heaters are also produced in other designs that provide for the removal of harmful by-products to the street. An example of such heaters is a diesel heat gun, but from the group of units of indirect rather than direct heating.


Indirect heating heat guns: on the left - diesel, on the right - designed not only for diesel fuel, but also for kerosene

Heating units indirect heating To remove diesel combustion products, they require connection to a ventilation system, the potential of which must meet the heater's needs in full so that fumes do not get inside.


Schematic device direct and indirect heating heat generator guns

The main characteristics of heat guns are calorific power, the volume of supplied heated air and energy consumption.

The power of the units, depending on the purpose of the model, ranges from 10 to 200 kW. To heat housing, equipment of 15-25 kW is used.

The consumption of kerosene or diesel varies from 1 to 7 l/h. The more powerful the model or the higher the value of the heating intensity regulator, the greater the consumption.

The operation of these devices is accompanied by slight noise, which imposes certain restrictions on their use for heating residential premises. But these heat generators have no equal when you need to warm up a large room quickly, and people can be nearby without fear of being poisoned by combustion products. In addition, the noise level from the operation of a heat gun can be reduced by placing it in another room, equipping it with a heat conductor sleeve, or simply directing a stream of generated hot air into open door adjacent room.


The use of liquid fuel heat generator guns for heating private houses

Comparing heat guns on diesel fuel with kerosene units in terms of the efficiency of heating residential premises, one should proceed from the region of residence and the area of ​​housing. Apartment of 1-2 rooms in middle lane in an emergency, it can be heated with kerosene-based heaters of sufficient power. A private house will require a lot of effort, and one of the solutions to the problem would be to install a diesel heat gun.

Conclusion

Kerosene heaters are useful devices in everyday life. But when solving the issue of heating a home, one cannot completely rely on them; this is a temporary solution in a situation where the main heating equipment has failed, you need to increase the temperature in a remote room, etc. However, buying a kerosene-powered unit “just in case” is a more than reasonable decision, since most emergencies with systems central heating- unforeseen.

The main point of the article

  1. Modern liquid fuel heaters are efficient heating devices, the designs of which are constantly being improved.
  2. Kerosene heaters are not the cheapest way to heat a home, but using them in an emergency or in the field is quite effective.
  3. A kerosene fireplace unit is a device of sufficient power that can heat a room of up to 20 m2.
  4. Kerosene heaters with a cylindrical body are more compact devices, many models of which are not inferior in power to fireplace units.
  5. The line of liquid fuel heaters from the Solarogaz company is one of best solutions the issue of heating and cooking food in camping conditions.
  6. A liquid fuel heat gun is superior in power to kerosene units, but its use is justified only when it is necessary to heat large areas.

For any apartment or apartment, there come times when it is necessary to use additional heating: in the fall before heating season or in winter with severe frosts. to raise the temperature in your home, garage or camping tent. In the modern market household appliances there is no shortage of compact, convenient and inexpensive heaters of any kind, convection, with infrared radiation. But interest in homemade devices does not fade, especially since the heater is not difficult.

There are many ways to make your own heater

Requirements for a homemade device

There are many options for homemade heating devices that run on electricity, batteries, kerosene, and gas. The types and designs of homemade devices vary, but the requirements for them always remain the same:

  • safety;
  • efficiency;
  • ease of manufacture and ease of use;
  • work productivity.

Safety involves thoughtful protection against electric shock and fire prevention;

  • use the device on a fireproof stand;
  • ensure contact density and insulation of connection points;
  • do not use open spirals, cover them with protective covers;
  • prevent network overloads, equip it with a fuse;
  • do not leave a working device unattended;
  • Place the device away from easily flammable objects.

The concept of an economical heater means that it helps to save money during operation. If purchasing components for a product costs more than purchasing a ready-made factory sample, there is no saving. But the costs can be recouped in the future if a cheaper energy source is used when using the device. In any case, you need to make a profitable heater.

Simplicity and convenience are important requirements for a homemade device. If love for making complex structures may be justified by individual craftsmen, then the complex procedure of turning on, turning off or maintaining the device in working condition will significantly complicate life, therefore it is irrational to make such a heater for the home.

The productivity of the device is expressed by the efficiency factor. The higher the efficiency, the more economical the device and the more advisable it is to make it yourself.

Advice. The primitiveness of homemade heaters, especially those using alternative energy sources - kerosene or batteries, should not be confusing. In case of emergency power outages, from which no one is insured, homemade device may be of assistance.

You need to be careful and not leave a man-made creation unattended (this can be a fire hazard)
  • in the off-season, electric wall heaters will help warm the premises without turning on the heating system;
  • V winter period they will complement the main heating if its power is not enough;
  • will help create a comfortable temperature for working in a garage or workshop;
  • a self-made tent heater will help out during a camping trip in bad weather;
  • When there is frost in spring or autumn, the heater will heat the pantry at the dacha.

Most often, amateurs make the following models:

  • DIY electric heater;
  • analogues of an oil heater;
  • battery-powered heater;
  • gas tourist heater;
  • kerosene heater.

Options for homemade heaters

Some homemade heaters are suitable for use at home, while other options are for camping trips. You can make the most basic electric heater with your own hands from a nichrome spiral from a broken hair dryer or heater.

Oil heater. Although there are many for sale, you can make a similar model yourself. The circuit diagram of an oil heater and the principle of its operation is to heat liquid technical oil placed in a sealed container using a heating element. To make oil heater do it yourself, you will need the following materials:

  • sealed container;
  • technical oil;
  • heating elements;
  • locksmith tool.

For the body of the future oil heater, you can use a metal battery, a gas battery, a car radiator, or weld the container yourself.

Holes for electric heating elements are made with a grinder, autogenous or welding. Heating elements are inserted into them and bolted. It is important that the inserted elements (1–4 in number) are secured tightly.

The container is not filled to the top with oil, but 85%, since the liquid expands when heated. There must be air at the top of the tank or an expansion tank will need to be installed. The oil used is heat-resistant.

Heating with a candle. The easiest camping option is to make a heater out of a candle. Tourists use empty tin cans or drink cans. A candle heater is made from two jars and a candle in a metal tablet. It has the following principle of operation: a burning candle is placed inside a metal container, which heats the jar from the inside. Thanks to the closed space, heat accumulates and enters outside through holes punched on top. Despite the primitiveness and simplicity of the model, this mini-heater is popular among tourists.

A clay pot and a candle can be a good heater

Making a candle heater with your own hands begins with processing the jars: the top part of one is removed, and many holes are punched around the perimeter with a nail at the bottom. The bottom of the second is cut off, cutting out several “petals” from the top to attach the bottom to the cut off top of the first jar. Place a burning candle inside and assemble the structure by inserting the bottom into the body.

Using the energy of a burning candle, you can make a decorative heater from clay pots and candles for your bedroom or living room. The candle is placed under several inverted ceramic pots, fastened together with a thick and long iron bolt. The iron heats up from the flame, and the pots and the air gap between them retain this heat and then release it into the surrounding space. This “heat trap” can work for days; it is important not to leave it unattended. This is a small addition to the main heating of the house and an opportunity to create a romantic atmosphere.

Even a child can make a simple infrared heater with his own hands by placing reflective film or foil behind the battery. In this case, reflected from the mirror surface, they will heat the surrounding objects, and not the opposite wall. The peculiarity of infrared radiation is that it heats objects, not air. This type of heating feels like the most comfortable.

More difficult to make. The operating principle of the device: there is a mesh heat dissipator above the flame, and a reflector (reflector) below it. A stainless steel bowl can be used as a reflector, but best material– aluminum, it reflects only heat waves. A large gas cylinder or a small cylinder on which a burner attachment is placed is used as fuel. This tent heater helps out winter fishing enthusiasts.

To heat a tent at winter fishing craftsmen make a gas gun heater - the burner is placed in metal pipe, weld the legs and attach a metal hose to remove gases.

Heater from . If there are old radiators left in the house after renovation, then you can make an electric heater from cast iron battery with your own hands. Cast iron has a high heat transfer coefficient, so by equipping the structure with a heating element, a thermostat and filling it with water or transformer oil, you can obtain an alternative heat source. Decorative appearance products will be an additional advantage.

New types of heaters. One of the simplest heaters to manufacture is a model made from thermal film. The thermal film is glued to the substrate, electrical contacts and wires are connected to it. This option is convenient to hang on the wall and can be hung with a picture or carpet.

WATCH THE VIDEO

In 2007, a new device, a vapor-drip heater, was developed, the principle of operation of which is similar to the operation of a water heater: water placed in sealed tubes is heated using a heating element, turns into steam, rises through the tubes, and then cools and, having condensed, returns to bottom part device. The cycle is repeated many times. The specificity of the device is low power consumption and high efficiency. Many craftsmen have adopted this new product and are making a similar device on their own.

Homemade heaters for the home, cottage or camping trip will help out in difficult and extreme conditions, so knowledge of their features and the ability to make them will not be superfluous.