An industrial design costs a lot of money, so here we will try to figure out how to make jointer with your own hands using a household electric cylinder.

Various designs of jointing machines

Structurally, jointing equipment manufactured in industrial conditions, is very different from machines made independently. They differ in the materials used, technologies, auxiliary equipment etc. But this does not mean that it will not be in demand for home use homemade jointing machine from a simple electric planer. It is quite suitable for processing small parts in small quantities.

There are two main types of wood planing machines:

• Single-sided machines (the production of this option will be discussed). With such equipment, only one surface can be processed in one pass. Structurally, these are the simplest devices;
• Double-sided or two-spindle. Such a device can simultaneously process two adjacent surfaces of a part. It is quite difficult to make such equipment yourself.

In addition to the above types, you can also add that machines can be both stationary and mobile.

main idea

Yes, such a homemade jointing machine, unlike serious industrial designs, has a number of disadvantages, namely:

• Can't brag high accuracy processing;
• The width of the workpiece is very small - only 110 mm;
• Lightweight is a disadvantage, since a heavy massive base always gives the device stability and, as a result, ease of use, which ultimately improves the quality of the result.
• Low power, limited by the power of a household electric planer;
• The case material is wood, that is, not durable;

However, it also has undeniable advantages that make it very useful for achieving certain goals and performing a number of tasks, since it has the following advantages:

• Low cost - serious jointing machines cost tens and hundreds of thousands of rubles, and the cost of this homemade jointing machine consists of the cost of the plane and materials;
• Compact and portable - it can easily be stored anywhere in the workshop and can be deployed for work in a matter of minutes.
• The simplicity of the design affects its reliability and maintainability.
• The ability to make the necessary dimensions of the machine “to suit you”, for example, you can increase the length of the work table or change the height.

Preparing the necessary accessories for work

To make a jointing machine with your own hands, you will need materials, equipment and tools, namely:

• Manual electric planer. Will be used as a woodworking tool. It is best to use high-quality, branded Makita or Bosh power tools - this is an additional guarantee of productive, long-term work;
• With . Alternatively, you can use a regular hand jigsaw, since we will only need it once to make one part;
• co or drill;
• or any other. Alternatively, you can use a simple handsaw;
• Wood screws (3.5x40 or 3.5x45);
• 10-15mm, for tables and others small parts, 18-20mm – for the side wall of the bed. Alternatively, you can use or, but this is an extremely undesirable option;
• Solid wood for making a side support, approximately 15-20mm thick.

This is an indicative set of what you might need to make a homemade jointing machine.

Machine parts

Let's look at the main structural elements:

Name	Description and purpose
Machine base	The bottom part of the machine where everything is mounted.
Side wall	The supporting structure of the machine, which serves to attach the electric planer and both tables.
Rear table (fixed)	Together with the front table it forms the plane of movement of the workpiece. Attached to the side wall.
Front table (adjustable height)	Together with the back table it forms the plane of movement of the workpiece. Attached to the side wall.
	Fixed on the back table. Used to give direction to the movement of the workpiece.
Spacer corners (stiffening ribs)	They serve for general strengthening of the structure, as well as to support a given 90-degree angle.
Electric planer	The main element of workpiece processing.

Making a homemade jointing machine

Side wall

First of all, we will make a side wall, for this we use plywood 18-20mm thick with dimensions 150x480mm. By cutting out a place in the workpiece in which the electric planer will be fixed. This should be done using an electric or hand jigsaw, since the sampling form has a complex configuration.

Front movable table

The front table, which must be adjustable in height, is made of two rectangular pieces fastened at an angle of 90 degrees. For greater structural strength, you need to make triangular stops between them. In this example, everything is attached with self-tapping screws; however, it is recommended to coat the joints with wood glue for greater strength. The end result should be a design like this.

At a distance of 70 mm from each other you need to make two through holes with a diameter of 8-10 mm and hammer furniture drive nuts into them. It is better to do this before assembling the base.

Installation of the movable table is done using two screws on the back of the side wall. For convenience, you can use bandages with a winged head or make homemade holder mounts. The installation should be carried out so that the plane of the moving part of the “sole” of the electric planer is in the same plane as the movable table of the jointer.

The side stop is needed to ensure smooth and parallel movement of the workpiece, as well as to establish an exact 90-degree angle between the work table and the stop plane. The stop is made simply - from two parts, which can be made from either plywood or solid wood. In this case, an array is used.

A do-it-yourself jointing machine made from an electric planer is ready for use.

Planing machine drawings

Here are the drawings of the proposed device.

Safety when working with homemade equipment

When working with any tool, you must follow safety precautions, as ignoring them can cause various injuries. We will briefly list the recommended measures to ensure the safety of the master’s work on this machine.

1. It is recommended to remove sharp chamfers and sand all manufactured parts to eliminate the possibility of hand injury (splinters, etc.)
2. When working, you must use a chip extractor or a special vacuum cleaner, for example, cyclone type to remove sawdust and dust from the sawing area, which can cause the following harm:

Video

The electric planer is designed for processing wood surfaces in one pass with a width of up to 120 mm and a processing depth of up to 1.2 mm or a width of up to 30 mm and a depth of up to 8 mm. The workpiece rests on a plate with a shaped hole for the knife shaft. A guide square is attached to the base plate using two M8 screws with plastic heads (but they can also be turnkey), which prevents the lateral movement of the product during processing.

The knife shaft bearing supports are attached to the base plate with M6 screws with countersunk heads. Since there are no design measures to protect the bearings from dust, ball bearings with two protective washers are used. A V-belt pulley is installed at the end of the knife shaft outside the base plate. The plate is fastened with ten M6 screws to a body welded from steel angle 20x20x3 mm.

Three M6 screws with cylindrical heads through spring washers, integrally with the base plate, connect the safety casing above the V-belt drive to the body. The electric motor is placed inside the housing and connected to it using two supports in the form of steel strips, each of which has two holes with a diameter of 6.5 mm for mounting on the housing and two grooves that provide installation and adjustment of the position of the electric motor for tensioning the V-belt drive belt.

The electric motor is controlled from a remote control located on the front of the housing. Inside the remote control, under the U-shaped bracket, there are two parallel-connected phase-shifting capacitors (not electrolytic!) with a capacity of 4 μF; There is a switch mounted outside on the remote control. From direct hit chips and dust, the electric motor is protected by a casing. Let us note the features of manufacturing parts and assemblies of an electric planer.

The base plate is made first. The most labor-intensive part is making a shaped slot in it for the knives to come out. To do this, you can use an electric drill with a small-diameter cutting wheel or drill along the contour of the hole and then file the slot. After drilling the mounting holes in the base plate, threaded holes are made along them in the four upper corners of the housing.

Before welding, the upper corners are attached to the base plate with all ten screws, and the remaining corners of the body are secured to them by welding. Then the base plate is removed and the body is finally welded along the contour, the welds are cleaned. Particularly carefully - along the plane of contact of the body to the base plate. Gaps are unacceptable here, as they can cause vibration during operation of the electric planer.

After completing the assembly, you need to make sure that the knife shaft rotates in the direction of feed, that is, counterclockwise when viewed from the control panel. This is important, since the method of securing the V-belt pulley to the knife shaft does not allow it to rotate in reverse side. Before starting work, it is necessary to carefully, without gaps, secure the body of the electric planer to the workbench with four M6 screws through the holes in its lower corners.

The knife shaft is equipped with two 120 mm wide knives or one knife for cutting grooves. In the latter case, a counterweight is installed on the opposite side of the shaft to eliminate imbalance and vibration. Each knife is secured using pressure plates and three M8 screws screwed into the through threaded holes of the knife shaft.

The most affordable blanks for knives are the produced blades of hacksaws for metal with a thickness of about 3 mm. The sharpening angle of the cutting edges of knives should be in the range of 30° -40°. With figured sharpening, it is easy to obtain relief surfaces for platbands, artistic frames, and so on. Thin and narrow profile slats (less than 10 mm wide) can be prepared by sawing a wider board lengthwise. When working with narrow knife(less than 12 mm) grooves deeper than 8 mm should not be machined due to the insufficient strength of the tool.

A simple electric planer: 1 - support plate (steel, sheet 350x180, s3); 2 - body (corner 20x20x3); 3 - knife shaft; 4 - knife (2 pcs.); 5 - plate (2 pcs.); 6.8 - bearing housings; 7 - bearing 80201; 9 - bearing 80203; 10 - driven pulley; 11 - fungus (steel, diameter 60x12); 12 - V-belt (profile A, 13x8, L650); 13 - electric motor DAV71-2; 14 - support (steel, sheet 180x20, s3.2 pcs.); 15 - guide square (angle 30x30x4, L350); 16 - belt casing (aluminum, sheet 200x100, s2); 17 - electric motor casing (aluminum, sheet 200x160, s2); 18 - control panel; 19 - screw for fastening the square (2 pcs.); 20 - M6x10 screw (countersunk head, 11 pcs.); 21 - M8x16 screw (6 pcs.); 22,23 - washers; 24 - screw M6x 12 (with a cylindrical head, 3 pcs.); 25 - spring washer (3 pcs.).

By making a universal thicknesser with your own hands, you can significantly simplify the processing of lumber, saving on the purchase of professional tools. Thicknessers are used for planing lumber and giving surfaces an ideal, even shape. Homemade machines are versatile in use, allowing you to guarantee high-quality processing of lumber and giving it the required shape.

Description of the tool

Thicknessers are machines for processing wood, which allow planing and leveling the surface of lumber to produce boards of a given thickness. This type of wood processing is carried out when using lumber in construction and manufacturing various designs. Planing equipment is in demand on the market and is popular with ordinary homeowners who independently engage in construction at the dacha and in their own home.

Self-made surface planers are distinguished by their simplicity of design, which allows them to be made using an electric planer, grinder and other similar power tools as a basis. You just need to make sure that you have the appropriate diagram, which you should adhere to when making homemade equipment.

Advantages of homemade machines

A do-it-yourself jointing machine is distinguished by its versatility of use. The functionality of such equipment will be sufficient for high-quality wood processing. Using homemade machines you can not only plan lumber, but also perform finishing boards, giving them required thickness and a perfectly flat surface.

The advantages of hand-made surface planers include the following:

To make a homemade surface planer with your own hands, you can use an electric planer, which is used to create a machine that allows for high-quality wood processing, including planing, edge processing and chamfering. It is only necessary to select a high-quality project for the manufacture of a homemade thickness planer, which will be the key to producing reliable and universally-usable equipment.

You can find it on the Internet various schemes execution of homemade jointers, which are distinguished by functionality and ease of manufacture. Subsequently, you should adhere to the scheme on hand, selecting the appropriate components and correctly assembling the machine, the functionality of which will fully meet the requirements of homeowners.

Required materials

There are many options for making homemade planing machines, which will differ in their basis. The easiest way to make such a tool is using an electric planer or jigsaw.

To perform a surface planer you will need the following:

Plywood and timber will be required to make the base of the machine and manual table, onto which the electric planer and other elements responsible for the functionality and safety of using the equipment will subsequently be attached.

It is necessary to use high-quality wood, which is additionally recommended to be treated with impregnations against rotting.

Step by step instructions

Making a surface planer is not difficult, so almost anyone can handle this type of equipment.

The following work will need to be done:

This is the most simple design surface planer, which can be done at home. On the Internet you can find various drawings of a thickness planer made from an electric planer with your own hands, which will differ in their functionality and manufacturing method.

Subsequently, you can upgrade the completed basic design of the machine by adding additional tools, which expands the functionality of the equipment.

Safe to use equipment

When performing any homemade woodworking machine, you need to take care of the safety of working on the equipment. If possible, the cutter should be covered with protective devices, and working on a machine where the working cutting element does not have any protection is prohibited. Majority homemade circuits Thickness planer manufacturers have high-quality protection for the electric planer, which eliminates injuries when working with such equipment.

• Working with homemade instrument, you must use safety glasses and work gloves. In particular, the latter will be required when working with coarse, dense workpieces, when beating of a homemade surface planer from an electric planer is observed when processing the material.
• The studs used must not have cracks, defects or damage. If cracks or damage are found, the defective parts of the machine should be replaced.

If you follow the simplest safety measures, working with a thickness planer will not present any difficulty, and the machine itself will last for many years. Using homemade machines, it will be possible to perform high-quality wood processing, saving on the purchase of industrial milling cutters.

Knowledge of the rules for working with a thickness planer will improve the quality of lumber processing, relieving the homeowner of any difficulties in operating the tool he has made.

The operating rules are as follows:

A correctly assembled thickness planer based on an electric planer functionality, efficiency and productivity will not be inferior to expensive factory equipment. All you need to do is find a high-quality plan for manufacturing a thicknesser on the Internet and then follow the drawings, assembling electric machine. The easiest way to make such a tool is based on an electric plane, which is mounted on plywood base. The simplest thicknesser, made independently, will differ in functionality in use, guaranteeing high-quality wood processing.

Every woodworking master will agree that an electric planer is useful, and often not at all irreplaceable thing in a home workshop. With this manual machine any wooden blanks can be processed very efficiently, and most importantly – quickly.

One more an indispensable tool A thicknesser is used for processing various wooden parts. The cost of such equipment is now quite high, so it usually makes sense to buy it only if the craftsman will earn something from processing wood blanks. If such a machine will not be used for the purpose of earning money, but only to perform various tasks around the house, then the optimal solution would be to make a surface planer from an electric planer. It is quite possible to do such work even with your own hands. At the same time, the quality of the work performed when using such a homemade machine will remain at a fairly high level.

Required equipment

Homemade thicknesser

To make a surface planer from an electric planer with your own hands, you need to have:

• an electric planer, which it wouldn’t be a shame to convert into another tool;
• drawings of future equipment;
• plywood and blocks for assembling the equipment body;
• a small amount of free time.

First of all, when processing an electric planer, you should determine exactly what size parts will be created on the new machine. The dimensions of the thicknesser being created will directly depend on their dimensions: this equipment must have a body of the same width and height, as well as the length of the pin and guides, which will exactly match the workpiece.

Correct installation of studs and guides

Another important point is the position of the pin, using which you can raise and lower the tool during operation. Many self-taught people make this pin so that it is located exactly in the middle of the body. But this solution is completely wrong: when making such a machine with your own hands, it is recommended to place the pin exactly in the middle between the rear and front handles. In such a case, not only will there be more convenient work with a tool, but fixing it in the desired position is much more reliable, and it will be much easier to do it.

When converting an electric planer into a manual surface planer with your own hands, its pin must be made as movable as possible. For this purpose, a rolling bearing is installed in the top cover of the new machine. In addition, a nut is installed on the middle plate, which is responsible for setting the height of the machine. In this case, the height of all equipment can be adjusted, if necessary, in small increments and with fairly high accuracy.

The guides of a new machine for the workpieces processed on it can easily be made from ordinary bars, but a small margin of length should be provided so that they are not exactly the same as the length of the workpiece. wooden part, but a little larger.

In addition, it is important to design the lower plane in such a way that during the processing of the part it moves immediately parallel to the machine knives. If this plane begins under the electric planer, during the work it will be very difficult to achieve maximum precision in processing the part.

Safe work on a homemade machine

Having converted such a hand-held power tool into a surface planer with your own hands, you should also remember about safety while using it. To get the job done on a new one home machine as efficiently as possible and completely eliminate the possibility of getting certain injuries, you should adhere to the following rules when performing certain work:

• When processing any part, it is necessary to use eye protection;
• When working with rough material, gloves should be used;
• starting work on homemade machine, should be checked for functionality and reliable fixation all its parts;
• the pins and knives of the machine must not have any cracks or any other defects;
• Only clean workpieces that do not contain nails or any other metal particles can be processed on a homemade machine.

How to work on a homemade machine

Working with a self-made surface planer is extremely simple. The machine pin is set at the required distance from the edge of the part, the required size is set, and the block is fixed. After this, the machine tilts slightly away from itself, as a result of which the cutting part of the pin is exposed. Then all that remains is to pull the tool towards you.

In this age innovative technologies In production, hand tools are rarely used, and in mass production of products they are not used at all. However, there have always been, are and will be craftsmen - cabinetmakers, for whom working with wood is not only part of their business, but also their favorite pastime.

For them, making a product with their own hands is always a pleasure. Such specialists have a lot of hand carpentry tools in their workshop.

Introduction

In addition, in the absence of expensive electrical equipment, the farm home handyman there must be a number of necessary cutters, devices and hand tools, the classic example of which is the plane.

Types of planes

A plane is a hand-held tool for working wood, allowing you to bring the surface of a product with your own hands to the required quality and size. Having the entire set of types of this tool, you can not only process the surface, but also make various carpentry crafts.

The planer has a whole arsenal of types:

Flat planing:

• sherhebel;
• jointer;
• semi-jointer;
• mole cricket;
• sander;
• tzinubel;
• end;
• single;
• double.

Figure planing:

• zenzubel;
• federgubel;
• folding belt;
• stabgobel or stabgaltel;
• tongue and groove;
• mold;
• primer;
• humpback

Having a full set of hand tools, if desired, you can make works of wood of any complexity. At the same time, an important factor successful work is sharpening your plane knives yourself, which is an expensive production service.

From figured planes useful features Zenzubel stands out. It is used for making grooves, quarters, stripping and finishing required sizes thorns and cuts. The manufacture of this type of instrument will be discussed.

The article outlines an algorithm for how to make a plane with your own hands.

More information

All the tools listed above are standardized products. Therefore, in order for them to perform their job correctly and accurately, they must be manufactured in accordance with the requirements of GOST 15987-91. Below are extracts from GOST that define the basic requirements.

DIY planer drawings

Materials

List of required materials from which to make hand plane with your own hands:

• ash;
• maple;
• hornbeam;
• white acacia;
• birch (allowed).

The wood must be well dried, without knots, cracks or rot. To glue parts, you must use waterproof glue.

Requirements for the metal used

Knives are made from the following types of double-layer steel:

• the main layer is made from grade 30, GOST 1050 (U8, U8A, U9, GOST 1435 are allowed);
• cladding layer - from grades 9ХФ, 9Х5ВФ, Х6ВФ, 9ХС, GOST 5950.

It is allowed to use metal of other grades, but no worse than those given in the standard. Knives must be perfectly sharpened and have an appropriate sharpening angle.

Preparing for work

To make a plane with your own hands, you need to prepare the following tools.

Equipment and tools

Materials and components

Description of the manufacturing process

The plane proposed for making your own has creative look, and quite easy to use. The product is shown in the picture.

The material of the heel, nose and sole of the plane is ash. The cheeks and wedge are oak. The thickness of the plane should be equal to the width of the knife blade, 20 mm.

A 20 mm thick blank is made from an ash board using a surface planer, onto which the contours of the future plane are drawn using a paper template and pencil.

Then you need to cut a hole for the arm. To do this:

1. Using a drill, drill 10 mm holes for the file;
2. Using a jigsaw, make a cutout for the hand along the marked contour;
3. On grinding machine process inner surface holes.

On milling machine, using a finger cutter, cuts are made under the cheeks on both sides of the workpiece. Sampling depth 5 mm.

The excess upper part is removed using a circular saw, and using a cross-cut saw, the part is cut into two halves - the nose and the heel, along a marked line with an inclination of 45 degrees.

If the workshop has mastered such an operation as sharpening a plane with your own hands, then the sharpening angle of the blade should be equal to 45 degrees so that the protruding cutting edge the knife was parallel to the plane of the sole.

To do this, the oak blank is cut into two halves, and the surface and ribs are cleaned with a plane.

Then insert the cheek into the groove of the heel, mark the cutout for the handle with a pencil, and cut off the excess part on a band saw.

A cutout is made on the second cheek in the same way. A hole for the knife is cut out on both cheeks using a trim saw, hacksaw and chisel.

Connect the cheek, heel and nose of the future plane together, use a carpenter's goniometer to mark a line on the nose for the hole for the future wedge, and remove the excess corner on the trim.

Using a band saw, the heel blank is cut along the marked contours.

At the next stage, you need to glue all the parts into a single structure with your own hands. First, the nose and heel are glued to one cheek. To do this, carefully coat the parts with glue, apply them and press them with clamps. After drying, glue the second cheek on the opposite side.

After the glue has dried, the workpiece is finally cut along the contour on a band saw and the outer and inner edges are manually processed to sanding drum. Using a semicircular cutter on a milling machine, all sharp edges of the plane workpiece are processed on both sides.

The wedge is made from oak. To do this, mark its contours, cut it out on a band saw and grind it.

Finally, you need to carefully sand the entire plane blank by hand. Of particular importance is the quality of the sole, which is the working part of the tool. The cleanliness of the workpiece depends on its condition.

The flat sides of the workpiece are processed with your own hands, using sandpaper pressed perfectly flat surface. A jointer plate is suitable for this. First they polish sandpaper with grain 100-150. The sole is brought to a “mirror state” with 600-800 grain.

GOST requirements allow a deviation of the flat surface of the sole of no more than 0.12 mm per 100 mm of length. Not all industries have the appropriate measuring instrument.

The tool is coated with waterproof colorless varnish, and the do-it-yourself plane is ready.

Conclusion

This tool, in addition to making grooves and cutting out quarters, is very convenient for fine cleaning of surfaces and trimming corners, which are difficult to handle manually with a chisel.

To better understand the manufacturing process, it is recommended to watch the video.

DIY planer video

Source: https://verstakdoma.ru/stati/instrument/samodelny/rubanok-svoimi-rukami/

How can you make a plane with your own hands?

• 16-10-2014

• • How to select and process a workpiece?
  • Pre-assembly of the structure
  • Completion of the structure
  • How it is produced final assembly tool?
  • How to properly adjust the tool being manufactured?

For a lot of people, working with wood is enjoyable. It’s nice to make a table for the veranda yourself or make a bench for the garden. You should know that this is a lot of physical work. However, today the work can be much simplified by using electric planes. Anyone can work with such a tool, even a beginner.

Plane drawing.

Such a device appeared quite a long time ago. Externally, modern electric planers resemble old designs, but they are superior in performance mechanical structures several times.

Using an electric planer, you can process wood, reduce the thickness of wood blanks, plan, adjust, process boards on a bed, and bevel edges. With this device it is not possible to process large surfaces, but in the case of small volumes it makes sense to use a similar tool.

A plane is primarily intended for leveling a wood surface that has previously been roughly processed.

After leveling the base with this tool, all irregularities and defects will disappear from the product, as a result of which it will become extremely smooth.

Finishing wood in most cases is done with a sanding plane. Using this tool you can also make a groove or chamfer in a part.

How to make a plane with your own hands?

Figure 1. Diagram of planer elements.

In order to work with concave or curved bases, humpback moulders were invented, with the help of which they produce textured planing of wood blanks. These elements have a special shape.

They have no particular advantages over modern planes. In addition, working with these devices is quite difficult.

To produce high-quality processing of parts, you will need to have some experience and special skills.

Today it is very difficult to find molding in construction stores, since almost all stores sell electronic equipment. That is why it is much easier to make a plane yourself.

Items you will need to make your own plane:

1. Iron element.
2. Chip breaker.
3. Wood preparation.
4. A simple pencil.
5. Wedge.
6. Band saw.
7. Plywood sheet.
8. Chisel.
9. File.
10. Adhesive mixture.
11. Drilling device.
12. Clamps.
13. Beam with a section of 12x12 mm.
14. Planing machine.
15. Micron skin.

Tools for making a plane.

A homemade plane with junction points for all elements can be seen in Fig. 1.

The iron element will determine the dimensions of the tool body, so the first step is to make an iron element and a chip breaker.

For the plane small sizes you can use an iron element from an old tool, and for a plane with oval-shaped elements - ready-made “pieces of iron”, which can be purchased at a hardware store.

These devices are initially filled along the radius, they can be purchased complete with suitable chip breakers.

In most cases, the plane is made from the most common types of wood - birch, maple, etc. The workpiece must be made 30-50 mm larger than the final dimensions of the tool being manufactured.

The width can be determined by the following formula: dimensions of the “piece of iron” + 3 mm + 20 mm on the cheeks + additional 6 mm for processing on the machine.

If a small plane is made, then the cheeks can be approximately 6 mm thick.

The tool must be marked in such a way that the rings are perpendicular to the sole, and the fiber runs down from the front to the back. So that after sawing all the elements can be connected in the correct order, you will need to draw a triangle with the vertex up on the front of the block.

Scheme for making a knife for a plane.

First of all, you will need to make 2 elements of the middle section, between which you will need to secure the “piece of hardware” and the chip breaker using a wedge. After this, 2 cheeks are attached.

The tool body is assembled from a blank, which is sawn into 2 parts. The cheeks are sawed out band saw. Next, the middle section is sawn into several parts.

At the same time, it will be necessary to form the bed of the iron element and the opening of the chip breaker. A wedge can be cut from unused trim. Once assembly is complete, the body and sole must be machined to shape.

Finally, the plane is adjusted.

The middle element should be 4 mm wider than the “piece of iron”. In addition, there should be an allowance of another 4 mm for processing the middle structural element to the shape of a rectangle. You can mark the cheeks using the same saw.

The iron bed is placed at an angle of 45° so that chips can come out without difficulty. The tap hole of the front opening is located at an angle of 60°.

The middle element is sawn into a front part, which is called the toe, and a back part, which is usually called the heel.

Next you will need to make an ordinary template from plywood sheets, with which you select a groove for the screw head, which ends at a distance of approximately 20 mm from the bottom of the housing. The groove can be selected with a chisel.

Types of planes.

Before assembling the plane, the mouth of the middle element must be lightly processed with a file, using a “piece of iron” shape. Next, the rear part of this section is installed on the edge, the iron element is applied in place, after which the front part is moved towards it. Finally, you need to check that the fit is correct.

Next, the structure is moved apart so that between the parts of the middle element of the structure a gap of 3 mm is formed for the iron element 4.5 mm thick, which forms the mouth of the instrument. After this, all parts of the plane will need to be aligned and compressed. You will need to drill holes through the cheeks in the middle section on 2 sides in order to install dowels and glue them.

In most cases, planes have rectangular shape, you should not waste time refining the structure. You should choose small niches for your fingers in the side walls. To make it easier to grip the tool, you need to chamfer the corners.

When the plane has its final shape, the chamfers will need to be sawed off. Until this point, they will be able to ensure that all elements are accurately aligned so that the crossbar can be adjusted. To ensure that the dowels do not interfere with the process of gluing the tool elements, they need to be sawed off flush with the cheeks.

Scheme of assembly and adjustment of the plane.

On the extreme parts of the rod you will need to install round spikes that will fit into the holes in the cheeks. Due to these spikes, the structure will be able to rotate at an angle to the wedge.

To be able to make holes for the rod on the top of the plane, an additional line must be drawn at right angles to the side parts. Next, 1 cheek is removed from the assembly, and with the iron element and chip breaker installed, the line is transferred to the other cheek.

The second cheek is removed from the middle part and the center of the hole for the rod is marked at a distance of 20 mm from the bottom of the structure and 12 mm from the top of the chip breaker.

The cheeks are aligned along the drawn lines, compressed with clamps, and then a hole is drilled.

The rod can be made from timber with a section of 12x12 mm. The length of the rod should be equal to the width of the tool, taking into account the cheeks. The length of the spikes is determined based on the thickness of the cheeks. At each end of the rod you need to make 4 shoulders. After this, the spikes are rounded with a knife.

To ensure uninterrupted chip flow, the upper ribs of the middle element of the rod will need to be rounded. After making the rod, you will need to check its fit to the tool. The rod should rotate freely.

When the rod is adjusted, you will need to check the location of the tenons and dowels. These elements must be flush with the cheeks.

All elements will need to be glued and secured with clamps, while the cheeks should be protected with gaskets. When the adhesive mixture has dried, you need to clean off the protruding solution.

To be able to level the sole over the joints, you need to go over the structure once with a planing machine.

A wedge, which can be made from cuttings from the middle element, must be installed between the chip breaker and the rod. If the wedge is flat, it will be difficult to knock it out. If the angle is too large, then the wedge can be knocked out even with light blows.

After assembling the plane, you will need to make a sole and remake the mouth for the final fit to the iron element, taking into account the purpose of the tool being manufactured. The narrow gap in front of the iron element is prerequisite for fine chip removal, but be aware that a 0.8 mm gap is more suitable for coarse chips.

Scheme for adjusting the release of the plane blade.

The most labor-intensive stage of the work is fitting the mouth of the instrument being manufactured to the “piece of hardware”. The taphole will need to be rounded in accordance with the bends of the iron element. This can only be done through a small opening in the base of the tool. If the plane is made to remove thin chips, then care must be taken to ensure that the mouth gap is as narrow as possible.

At the uneven line of the front part of the middle element, it is necessary to fix the iron element, and then give correct form sole To do this, you need to clamp the tool being made in a vice with the sole up and from the ribs to the middle, where you need to remove a small amount of wood. Next, the structure needs to be processed with a plane with a flat sole.

When there is a gap of 0.8 mm left to the radius of the iron element in the plane, you will need to switch to a scraper. This is done so that it is possible to remove the media from the plane.

Next, fine sandpaper is fixed to the plate and cleaned with long, identical passes. bottom part plane, rocking the tool from side to side. Then you will need to inspect the contours of the sole of the iron element.

At the end, you need to clean the sole with micron sandpaper, which is attached to a flat base.

After stripping, the iron element will not be able to pass through the mouth of the tool. Therefore, you need to remove the wood in front of the iron element with a small file. You need to remove it until the mouth and the iron element match. As a result, the “piece of iron” should come out slightly from the sole.

If the quality of the manufactured device is satisfactory, then the plane can be varnished. It is recommended to apply an additional layer of varnish to the side parts of the structure.

In the process of gluing all structural elements, it is necessary to promptly remove all excess adhesive mixture that may protrude after compressing the workpiece in a vice.

Making a plane yourself is not so difficult if you know all the existing nuances. Will need to comply correct sequence actions and have everything in stock necessary tools and materials.

Source: http://MoiInstrumenty.ru/standartnye/kak-sdelat-rubanok-svoimi-rukami.html

Few people in childhood were left indifferent by their first visit to a carpentry workshop. The indescribable smell of fresh wood shavings, the cleanliness and smoothness of a freshly planed board, the fluffiness of sawdust - this is a place where, with the help of thickness planer There was a magical transformation of several gnarled boards with a scratchy surface from protruding fibers into an elegant stool.

The result of the surface planer was perfectly smooth lumber, which was suitable for making many interesting and beautiful things.

Design and types of thicknessing machines

Of course, the thickness planer was not the only one in that workshop. And many of these workshops could not boast of such luxury at all. But circular saw, often assembled on the same shaft with the drum of the jointing machine, was almost always available.

And then a simple device, which made it possible to control the uniformity of pressing the workpiece to the surface of the work table, brought the jointing machine closer in functionality to a thickness planer, which in in capable hands provided almost the same result, although somewhat more expensive both in terms of work and time.

We talk about this in such detail here to make the main topic of the article clearer - making a thicknesser (thicknesser) machine with your own hands. After all, his main task is to plan the molded wood material with the same thickness. And several successive planing operations on a jointing machine with such a clamping device will ensure this result.

But what is a real surface planer equipped with?

The thickness planer has:

• desktop;
• working shaft (1 or 2), two - for simultaneous processing of two surfaces of the workpiece or one - for processing the workpiece on one side;
• rollers for pressing and pulling the workpiece (a pair on top or two - on top and bottom), with electric or manual drive;
• table height adjustment system;
• workpiece reverse protection system.

In the modification of the jointing machine, some of the listed systems are missing. But also, machines are produced industrially dual use– jointer-thicknesser.

In them, under the working table for jointing, there is a height-adjustable surface thicknessing table. Processing of the workpiece is carried out using the same drum with knives as jointing. In this case, only the upper part is processed. While the machine is operating as a thickness planer, upper part The machine is covered with a protective cover to avoid injury.

Sometimes, instead of a drum with knives, a wide cutter is installed.

Schematic diagram of the operation of a thickness planer

Why make a thickness planer with your own hands?

The scheme of work should be clear to most home craftsmen even without visualization, but for ease of understanding the tasks of making a surface planer yourself, it will not be superfluous.

Motivations for self-made any equipment - two:

• desire for self-realization;
• desire for savings.

All the rest follow from those listed. And you can save a lot of things:

• first of all, money due to the abolition of auxiliary functions, which can be completely dispensed with in a home workshop;
• in the second - electricity by reducing the number of electric drives;
• thirdly, space in the workshop due to optimization and adjustment of dimensions.

If we talk about a full-fledged thickness planer, then, based on the three-dimensional drawing located below, its components can be reduced to the following list:

• electric drive from an electric motor with a power of 1.5 - 2.5 kW on a two-knife drum rotating at a speed of 5 - 10 thousand rpm;
• manual chain adjustment of the work table level;
• manual chain coupled feeding of the workpiece by two lingering pressure rollers.

But you yourself decide on the concept of your surface planer. Let's look at 3 approaches to implementing the idea of ​​making your own thickness planer.

High-tech method for manufacturing a thickness planer

There are 3 independent electric drives, which:

• drive the cutting drum,
• are broaching pressure rollers,
• adjust the position of the desktop.

Torque is transmitted to the drum using a V-belt drive, and in the two remaining options - a chain drive. Moreover, the uniformity of pressure on the rollers is regulated by interconnected spring-loaded intermediate sprockets, although in our opinion, such a system will still not allow us to avoid some temporary loosening of the chain at the moment the workpiece leaves the feed roller.

The tensioning of the drive chain for adjusting the height of the work table is carried out by two rigidly fixed sprockets.

Such a machine will not turn out to be cheap, and the abundance of rather complex components will require constant maintenance. But, apparently, this is exactly the case when the desire for self-realization was in the foreground, because for the same money it would be quite possible to find a used thickness planer and, having slightly repaired it, provide a solution to the same problems.

Do-it-yourself thickness planer made from an electric planer

It is precisely this approach to solving most tasks for a surface planer that arise in a home workshop that we find most interesting.

First of all, this interest is based on minimal modifications to an existing tool to perform the work of expensive equipment with almost the same result.

By installing an electric planer on a platform with variable height, we get almost the same thickness planer.

True, it is not the position of the work table that is regulated, but the position of the working tool in relation to the workpiece being processed, but the essence of the process does not change.

The role of the table here is played by a flat, powerful board with width limiters on the sides. They also serve as the mounting location for the main unit. But first, let's talk about him.

On the planer, we will replace the rear support plate with a homemade one made from OSB or plywood, with a thickness that ensures the same level as the front plate, which regulates the required gap (1 - 3 mm) for removing chips. Its width should correspond to the width of our improvised desktop.

On the sides of this plate, slats are screwed to attach the legs, the height of which is dictated solely by common sense.

It is obvious that, based on standard width plane knives are 82 mm, the thickness of the workpieces being processed should not be more than 100 mm, so the distance between the axes of the leg fastenings can be taken equal to 110 - 120 mm.

Accordingly, their total length will range from 140 to 160 mm with a width of 35 mm and a thickness of at least 10 mm. The legs are fastened strictly at the same distance from the edge of the bar.

Installation of the assembled movable upper unit with an electric planer on the desktop is carried out locally, so that the fastening is strictly at the same level. This is done to ensure that its movement is parallel with respect to the base surface, which will ensure accurate processing of the workpiece.

The easiest way to set the height during work is by selecting slats of appropriate thickness, screwed onto the work table width limiters, or using other stands.

And the clamping of the working tool is ensured with spring ties or a harness, but for small workpieces this is not required at all. Also, in a given position, this parallel platform can be fixed with self-tapping screws.

using a surface planer assembled by yourself:

A budget option for a homemade surface planer

This is the simplest method of using an electric planer as a surface planer. Of course, it would hardly occur to anyone to call this design a thickness planer, but in terms of the function it performs, this is exactly what it is.

We deliberately selected an option for wide blanks. Indeed, in this form it performs work that most industrial thicknessing machines cannot do precisely because of the width of the material being processed, and in our case it is limited only by the length of your hands.

Of course, we cannot recommend such a barbaric attachment of an electric plane - a rather expensive tool - to a moving platform.

Where more interesting option securing it, described in the previous section of the article, but using a wider platform and moving the slats along the width, and not along the axis of the tool.

In this case, the danger of damaging anything important inside the plane body is reduced to zero.

In the example given, a glued set of wooden slats various sizes and even types of wood.

Height adjustment is made by installing calibrated bars on the sides of the work table, two sets of which will allow you to process an unlimited number of workpieces on both sides to a given thickness.

Obviously, the same system can be used when processing molded material, and not just wide and short workpieces, but at the same time, unlike a thickness planer and the previous option of using an electric planer as a planer, you will not move the workpiece, but independently move along her.

It is no less obvious that the desktop must be perfectly level horizontal plane, otherwise its unevenness may be transmitted to all workpieces being processed. Watch the video - example below:

Dear readers, if you have any questions, please ask them using the form below. We will be glad to communicate with you 😉