Ozonation of air in a bathhouse or sauna helps not only to eliminate any unpleasant odors, but also to destroy fungal and viral diseases and destruction of toxins. Thanks to high humidity rooms and high temperature conditions, the premises of baths or saunas provide an ideal environment for the proliferation of pathogenic bacteria, viruses and various fungal microorganisms. Based on this, maintaining baths and saunas in proper hygienic condition is quite a difficult task!
Ozone efficiency:
The safe long-term operation of both baths and saunas largely depends on timely, proper care behind them. According to the instructions, the responsibilities of the bathhouse staff include simple rules for care of premises. And to disinfect the bathhouse, professional equipment is used for ozonation of premises, and work with it should be carried out only by a qualified, experienced specialist!
Ozonation is an environmentally friendly technology for cleaning air and surfaces; it is based on the use of ozone, a powerful oxidizing agent. This technology, helps us easily and quickly disinfect baths and saunas without harming human health! Remove any bad smell(including the smell of dampness, mold, sweat), effectively remove the mold itself, and also destroy insects and rodents.
A household ozonizer will not solve your problems! To destroy insects and rodents, remove mold and odors, you can only industrial equipment for ozonation!
We use powerful industrial ozonizers, during which it is prohibited to be in the room! After ozonation and ventilation, the air in the sauna will become absolutely clean and beneficial for people, animals and house plants. Ozone does not leave marks on walls, equipment and furniture!
Ozone not only removes unpleasant odors, but also completely sterilizes your room! Ozone penetrates into everything, even the most hard to reach places, filling the entire room. Plus, ozone has a detrimental effect on fungal (mold) spores, viruses, bacteria, insects and even rodents!
Advantages of ozonation technology:
- After ozone treatment, the room does not need to be cleaned and nothing needs to be washed. All surfaces and objects in the room will be completely disinfected (sterilized)!
- After ozonation, there will be no unpleasant odors or harmful chemical compounds left in the room! Only clean air!
- Ozonation is one solution for five problems: elimination of unpleasant odors, disinfection, disinfestation, deratization and destruction of mold spores, with just one ozone treatment!
Before ozonating a bath (sauna), you need:
- Carry out wet cleaning of the room.
- Remove fresh flowers and plants from the premises.
- Leave the room for the duration of treatment (+ 30-60 minutes).
Do you want to disinfect your bathhouse or sauna? Remove odors, mold, eliminate rodents and insects in a bathhouse? Call! We will ozonate your premises quickly and efficiently!
Sewerage in a bathhouse - how to do it right? How to eliminate odor in a bathhouse from a drain hole
Question about sewerage in the bathhouse? | Page 2
Xolod423 said:Besides smell, does communication with the atmosphere have any other function?!
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An unpleasant smell from the sewer in the bathroom, toilet or kitchen sometimes appears due to various reasons. Unfortunately, it is not possible to single out any one of them. Often, only by checking and eliminating several possible odor sources can you achieve results. Hydraulic seal as the cause of odor A hydraulic seal or, simply, a siphon is a specially curved pipe or device filled with liquid, designed to separate two adjacent gas environments in this way, while preventing their mixing. That is, siphons are precisely designed to prevent penetration of an unpleasant odor into the living space. And if nothing interferes with the water seal, then it copes with the task. However, due to pressure differences in the sewerage system relative to the room, all the difficulties arise:
- if the pressure in the system after the siphon exceeds atmospheric pressure, then air from the sewer system, sometimes almost imperceptibly - in the form of small bubbles, and sometimes with a large and loud splash, will penetrate into the room along with an unpleasant odor;
- if the drains moving through the pipe completely fill its cross-section, then the siphon will be emptied under the influence of rarefaction (vacuum), thereby establishing free access of gases from the sewer into the room.
- laying must be carried out sewer pipes maximum (within reasonable limits) diameter, because what smaller area cross-section of the pipe, the higher the likelihood of it being blocked by drains and, accordingly, the occurrence of vacuum.
- Deposits on the pipe walls and blockages should not be allowed, which usually leads to a decrease in the flow diameter of the pipe, and ultimately resulting in the situation described in paragraph one.
The same thing is observed both in autonomous and urban centralized sewers, when wastewater is drained. A plug forms in the sewer, which, moving down, thins the air. As a result, water is sucked from the siphons.
That is why ventilation is necessary to prevent the appearance of unpleasant odors. It is also worth noting the fact that if the house has a local sewage system, then without ventilation it will not work at all.
www.baniclub.ru
device and installation of the system, how to do it yourself?
A real Russian bathhouse has long been a full-fledged symbol, along with bears and vodka. The time when it was used only for its direct sanitary purpose has passed. Today, the bathhouse is a place of relaxation, communication with friends, which is accompanied not only by washing and wellness procedures, but by various cultural events. If earlier the sewage system in the bathhouse was arranged at the most primitive level, now, to create comfortable conditions, it is necessary to approach this issue more carefully.
Water drainage methods
There are several ways to drain water from a bath, the choice of which depends on:
- availability of sewer networks,
- soil's ability to drain water.
The most the best option This will, of course, drain water into the central sewerage system. Unfortunately, this option is only suitable for places with well-developed infrastructure. Therefore, in many cases, when deciding how to make a sewer in a bathhouse, you have to resort to other solutions. An autonomous sewage system, which is now equipped in many country houses, can provide a similar result. The cost of such a system is quite high. Water is drained from the bathhouse using standard sewer networks, which are installed using conventional technology. 
Water removal using local drainage is the most common sewage system in a bathhouse. Water is discharged into local drainage wells, which provide cleaning waste water. Can be used in soil conditions that absorb moisture well. If the drainage qualities of the surrounding soil are poor, water is discharged into special pits, from which the water is simply discharged outside the bathhouse through laid sewer pipes. In this case, all sanitary requirements must be met regarding the distance from the place of water discharge to other buildings.
Installation of internal sewerage in a bathhouse
In a traditional Russian bath, the steam room is usually combined with a washing room. True, modern trends are reaching such a primordially Russian building, so it’s quite common now to find steam rooms with showers or even a swimming pool. Let's consider the installation of bathhouse sewerage for various cases. IN traditional bath Water drainage is necessary only from one room - the steam room. This is done as follows. The flooring is laid with a slope towards one of the walls.
A special gap is left between the wall and the flooring, where the water is drained.
Under the floor, along the entire gap, a special gutter is installed, which previously was usually made of asbestos-cement or steel pipe. The first of them cannot be called healthy, and the second quickly rotted. Nowadays, plastic or other composite pipes that are resistant to corrosion are most often used. The gutter is installed with a slope towards the sewer pipe exiting the building. If it is necessary to drain water from several rooms, it is advisable to install such a gutter under the partition separating the rooms, this will simplify the installation of the bathhouse sewage system. A more modern method is to drain water from washing areas through specially constructed drain holes, the so-called drains. They can be mounted on any type floor coverings, the main thing is to correctly plan the slope of the floor so that the water gets into the drain and does not stagnate in the room.
Eliminating sewer smell in a bathhouse
Mistakes that an incompetent sewer installer can make often lead to the appearance of an unpleasant sewer smell in the bathhouse. In order to avoid such a problem, you must follow the following recommendations.
Each water drain point must be equipped with a so-called water seal. Most often it is performed using a drain siphon. He may have different shape, sizes, but the principle of operation is the same for all models.
In such a device there is always a kind of water plug that prevents the penetration of system odors into the room. For the same purpose, ventilation of the bath sewer must be provided, in addition, such a system ensures the drainage of water without unnecessary noise effects. Ventilation ensures the flow of air into the sewerage system during drainage water. If there is no such influx, when water moves through the pipe, a vacuum zone is formed, which leads to the so-called failure of the water seal. At the same time, water from the valve goes into the system, and the smell of sewage begins to enter the room. The easiest way to make such ventilation is from an ordinary 50-mm plastic sewer pipe; it is advisable to lead it to the roof of the building, covering it with a special cap.
Construction of local drainage wells
As already mentioned, very often water is discharged into drainage wells. Therefore, before making a sewer system in a bathhouse, you need to take care of its arrangement.
The area of such a well depends on the volume of drainage, but for a bathhouse it must be at least 1 square meter.
The well is installed at a distance of 4-5 meters from the building, its depth should be at least 1.2-1.5 meters, and should be at least 60-70 cm greater than the freezing depth.
The upper part of the well and its bottom are covered with a layer of clay, then backfilled with expanded clay, crushed stone or other similar drainage material. Water will be discharged from the bathhouse through sewer pipes into this layer, passing through which the wastewater will be purified and absorbed into the ground.
Connecting the sewerage system to a central or autonomous system
IN modern design sauna drainage system is installed from standard plastic pipes and fashions. When laying external sewer lines, it is necessary to observe the slope angle to ensure normal operation of the system.
For pipes with a diameter of 50 mm, the minimum slope should be 0.03, and for 100 mm pipes 0.02 (2 cm per 1 meter).
Do not forget also about the installation of inspection and rotary wells. Typically, the walls of such wells are made of special concrete rings, although it is quite possible to lay them out of stone, brick, or other similar material.
The outside of the well must be waterproofed to prevent sewage from entering the soil. In the case of a sewer line passing through a straight line before inserting into the central system, it is necessary to make one inspection well, with the installation of an inspection (cleaning) on the sewer pipe. This is necessary to clean the system in emergency situations.
Do-it-yourself sewerage in a bathhouse can be done with even a little construction experience, and the opportunity to save on these, in principle simple work, for which most contractors will ask for a considerable amount, there is a real one. Independent installation of sewerage in a bathhouse, especially a small one, provides a wide field for gaining experience in such work. And since in many cases the bathhouse is the first building on the site, you can consider it a training, construction site for laying sewer networks.
canalizator-pro.ru
Bath drain
Before starting construction of a bathhouse, it is necessary to carefully consider the water drainage system. It is important to design the sewage system according to building regulations and standards. Installing a drain structure helps prevent the appearance of fungus and rotting of materials. It also helps eliminate unpleasant odors. Before draining the bathhouse, you need to calculate everything in advance and familiarize yourself with the rules for creating a sewerage system.
Water drainage methods
There are several methods for draining water, each of which can be used for any similar structure. But in order for water removal to occur more efficiently, it is necessary to choose the most suitable option:
Installation of a drain pipe
The efficiency of water drainage largely depends on proper installed pipe. The pipe is laid at the stage of creating the foundation for the structure, since after completion of construction this will be problematic. The drainage hole is usually dug at a distance of about 5 meters from the bathhouse. The depth of the pit and its width depend only on the number of people who will use the structure at the same time.
The edges of the created pit are protected from collapse with the help of reinforced concrete rings. To install the pipe from the bathhouse towards the well, a trench with a slope is laid. After this, the pipe is laid on a sand bed.
Important! The drain pipe must ensure unimpeded passage of water throughout its entire length.
Creating a drain well
When creating a bathhouse, it is recommended to make a well below the freezing point of the soil. Drainage is made at the bottom, for which expanded clay is used. When laying a pipe to a well, it must be insulated. If this is not done, the wastewater will freeze when sub-zero temperature.
When choosing pipes, it is necessary to take into account the requirements for the following products:
- they must have a diameter of at least 50 mm;
- more reliable are asbestos-cement and cast iron pipes;
- metal products cannot be used, as rust appears on them;
- the most common are PVC pipes, as they are quite durable and have a low cost;
- After connecting the pipes, the joints are connected with a compound that allows them to be sealed.
It's worth remembering that sewer well has one significant drawback - some time after the start of using the water drainage system, the soil becomes clogged with soapy water and it begins to accumulate in the well. After this, cleaning must be done. Best option– drainage of the drainpipe into the sewer network, which is located nearby.
Floor installation
As a rule, when creating a water drainage system in a bathhouse, a concrete floor with a drain hole is created. After this, it is covered with tiles or wood. To prevent the hole from becoming clogged, a mesh is installed on it. Typically, floor insulation is not required. This is due to the fact that as air temperature increases finishing material warms up quite well.
If the tiles heat up too much during use and become hot, wooden grates must be used. Such products can be dried after each use of the room so that the wood does not begin to deteriorate.
Septic cleaning method
Since the system must be cleaned periodically, the most in a practical way is the use of the septic method. Cleaning is carried out in several stages:
- Mechanical cleaning. On at this stage wastewater is purified from lime and other impurities.
- Filtration and biological treatment. It involves the use of septic tanks.
Local septic tanks are installed for a group of plots. If a water purification system is installed for one area, autonomous septic tanks are used. To prevent unexpected blockages, it is necessary to make an inspection well at a distance of about 5 meters from the bathhouse.
Standard drain pit
Creating a drainage pit is the easiest way to drain and dispose of water. A pit is created a few meters from the bathhouse, the walls of which are lined with bricks or reinforced with cement. The disadvantage of this drainage method is that if there is a slope in the soil, the water from the pit will flow to lower areas. When the pit is filled, it must be cleaned.
It follows from this that the place to create the pit must be chosen in such a way that a sewage disposal truck can drive up to it. It is worth remembering that periodic cleaning of the pit will entail additional costs.
Leaking wooden floor
The simplest option for creating a drain in a bathhouse is to install a pourable wooden floor. It is created from inexpensive materials, which significantly reduces the cost of creating a bathhouse. When choosing this option, the boards are laid so that the distance between them is at least 5 mm. Thanks to this, water quickly flows to the ground and leaves through the ground or through the drainage system. The installation of a drainage system is not required only if the soil does not interfere with the rapid drainage of water. In this case, the foundation for a bathhouse with a drain is made of a strip.
Depending on the type of foundation, you can choose several types of crawl space under a leaking floor. This is necessary in regions with clay, loam and other types of soil that do not allow water to pass through. In this case, a pit is created in which a system designed to remove wastewater is located.
If the soil is sandy, it is enough to dig a hole about 400 mm deep and fill it with a mixture of sand and crushed stone to a height of about 250 mm. Thanks to this, the water is purified and removed through the soil.
Important! The distance between the created sand cushion and the logs should be more than 100 mm.
Creating a pouring floor
When creating a poured floor, the boards are not fixed to the joists, but are nailed to additional bars. This allows you to take out the flooring to dry after using the bathhouse.
Important! The foundation for the stove in the bathhouse is created only after the floor joists are installed. This is necessary for precise definition floor height.
Before creating a floor, there are some points to consider:
- the drain hole must be prepared before the floor is created;
- the distance between the boards must be at least 5 m, otherwise when the wood swells, some of the cracks may overlap;
- support posts for logs must be waterproofed with a double layer, since one layer is not enough to protect them.
The support columns are made of brick. They are installed on a concrete or sand pad. The distance between them should be about 1 meter. After installation, the columns are plastered, and roofing material is laid between them. If the soil is sandy, this material is not laid, since all the water will immediately go into the hole.
The lags are secured to the posts using metal channels, which are then covered with bitumen. This is necessary in order to protect them from corrosion. Logs are usually made from larch, since this material is less susceptible to moisture. Before installation, the logs are coated with protective compounds.
To create a leaky floor, a 40 mm thick board is usually used. It's worth remembering that pine boards not suitable for creating floors, as this wood is resinous. After preparing the boards, they are either attached to the logs or connected to the bars, which will then be laid on the supports.
bouw.ru
How to make a sewer in a bathhouse
One of the issues that owners face country house when building a bathhouse, is: how to make a sewer system in a bathhouse. The fact is that solving the question of how to install a sewer system in a bathhouse is one of the most important, ensuring, with proper installation of the system, the normal functioning of the entire bathhouse complex.
In order for the sewerage system to function normally, all design parameters must be carefully calculated. To know how to properly install a sewer system in a bathhouse, you should study in detail the basics of installing various sewer systems, think through the design of the system and install it correctly, in accordance with the developed drawing.
In order to avoid the appearance of an unpleasant odor when using a wastewater disposal system, you need to study the question of how to make the sewage system in a bathhouse odorless. Most often, a sealed septic tank is used for this purpose, or a wastewater collection system is connected to centralized system drainage.
Types of wastewater collection systems
To know how to properly make a sewer system in a bathhouse, you need to study all types of modern waste systems. At the moment, several sewage systems can be used to equip a bath complex.
The main systems among them are the following:
- non-pressure;
- pressure;
- component CKS.
A gravity system is a system that operates on the principle of gravity. Wastewater is transported without pumping liquid into a septic tank and drainage well using special devices, where the wastewater settles and is purified, after which the water is discharged into the ground. For normal operation of such a system, a drain pipeline slope of at least 2 cm per 1 m of pipe is required. This wastewater disposal system is the cheapest.
A pressure wastewater collection system is a system for transporting waste water, the design of which uses special pumps that pump wastewater and redirect it to the wastewater discharge system, and then to a drainage or septic tank. Discharge of wastewater after treatment is carried out using a forced method. This system is used when the ground water level rises.
The complex's discharge system, as part of a centralized wastewater collection system, represents the most optimal option for arranging a wastewater disposal system. The use of such a sewer allows you to eliminate the installation of treatment facilities. The disadvantage of such a system is the need to obtain permission to connect to the centralized system.
Construction of a drainage sewer system
If bath complex is being built for the use of a small number of people, a good option for creating a sewer system would be to create a sewer system that has a drainage type.
The construction of such a system can be carried out independently on your own. During the construction process you need to adhere to certain building codes and rules.
For correct installation It is required to dig a drainage well in a pre-selected place near the bathhouse complex. The size of the well on the surface of the earth should be 100x100 cm. The volume of the prepared well depends on the number of users of the bath complex using it at the same time. When preparing a drainage hole, the depth of freezing of the ground should be taken into account. This figure in mid-latitudes is about 70 cm. With this level of freezing of the soil layer drainage hole should be dug to a depth of 1.5 m.
After the drainage pit has been prepared, the soil located around the foundation base, the bottom drainage ditch and the bottom of the pit is compacted with a clay composition. The thickness of the clay layer must be at least 10 cm. The clay at the bottom of the trench must be laid and compacted in the form of a tray and at an angle in the direction of the drainage hole. This is required so that water does not seep into the thickness of the soil layer and pollute it. In addition, the presence of a slope will prevent the foundation from being undermined.
After laying the clay layer at the bottom, the well is covered with a layer of gravel or crushed stone, which acts as drainage and must have a thickness of at least 50 cm. After the drainage field is constructed, the well is filled with earth and compacted. When using the drainage method of wastewater disposal, you will need a septic tank to clean it.
In order for the drainage system to function correctly, it is extremely important to comply with all requirements during its manufacture. technological processes. Failure to comply with the requirements may result in sauna wastewater accumulating under the flooring and increasing the level of dampness in the sauna. In winter, these effluents will freeze, disrupting normal work sewerage systems. An increase in humidity in the premises will contribute to the rotting of the material used in the finishing process.
Arranging a drainage gutter
Before making a well-functioning sewer system in a bathhouse complex, you should remember that the flooring of the bathhouse should have a slight slope directed in the direction of the sewer grate. A gutter is installed under the floor grate to receive waste, which is a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm and above. Pipes can be used from asbestos, cast iron, concrete, ceramics or galvanized iron. It is not recommended to use steel products, as this material quickly becomes unusable under the influence of corrosion processes.
Water entering the gutter is quickly drained through it into the sewer system or drainage well.
Sewerage in the steam room can be arranged differently. For this purpose, the floor in the bathhouse is arranged with small gaps between the boards; in this case, a pit with concrete walls is installed in the underground to collect wastewater. To prevent the penetration of unpleasant odors from the sewer system into the premises of the bath complex, a movable metal plate is installed in the pit, which prevents the penetration of odors. When installing a toilet in a bathhouse in an autonomous sewage system, it is mandatory to have a septic tank designed to disinfect wastewater.
Arrangement of an inspection well for the bathhouse sewer system
In the process of arranging and laying a sewerage system for a bathhouse complex, the construction of an inspection well is required if the length of the sewerage pipeline is more than 10 m. Inspection wells are also installed in places where height differences occur and in places where the sewage transportation system turns.
These structural elements are required in order to inspect and clean pipelines if necessary.
The distances between inspection wells are regulated by special construction regulations and depend on the diameter of the pipes used in the installation of the sewer pipeline.
When installing a sewerage system for a bathhouse complex, pipes with a diameter of less than 155 mm are used, which makes it possible to install inspection wells at a distance of 35 m from each other.
To install wells, concrete and plastic rings are used, through which the pipeline is passed. During the installation process, it is better to use rings made of concrete, as they more reliably protect vulnerable areas of the sewer pipeline. Installation of rings involves making holes for pipes in the concrete body. The prepared rings are lowered into special holes dug along the pipeline route. Pipes are inserted into the holes of the rings so that the joints between them are inside the ring. The joints between rings and pipes, as well as between individual pipes, are sealed using special sealing compounds.
The space around the installed ring is sprinkled with a dry mixture consisting of sand and cement in a 1:1 ratio.
In some cases, when arranging the system, it is possible to use ready-made inspection wells, which are made of plastic. The advantage of such components of the sauna complex sewerage system is ease of installation and low weight of the product. These system components are equipped with special pipes for connecting pipelines and sealing joints.
To collect sewage, you can make a drainage pit consisting of waste car tires. In order to correctly manufacture this element of the sewer system, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the videos and photos located on the pages of specialized thematic resources that are devoted to the topic of organizing sewer systems.
A properly manufactured sewer system will allow you to operate the bath complex for a long time without thinking about the need for repair work.
Built a bathhouse. They already started using it last season. Steam room (6.5 m3) – like in a sauna: made of brick, with good insulation and finishing. I bought a Termofor “Compact” heater for the sauna. So, when we heat the stove, an unpleasant smell appears. While the stove is heating up, it intensifies. Moreover, it is so sharp and suffocating that it is simply frightening. At first I was guilty of saying that the bathhouse was new: if we use it, it will all disappear on its own over time. But no, I heated it 10 times, and everything was still the same. What to do?
Let’s try to understand offhand what can give such an effect, although it is difficult to “make the correct diagnosis” of a bathhouse in absentia. An odor may occur if there is grease in the chimney.
It is possible that this is the smell of the paint used on the stove. Theoretically, it should have been completely dry by now, but anything can happen. So, you can’t rule out paint either.
Maybe it's the stones. Check out this version: remove the stones and heat the stove without them. If the smell disappears, then you should replace the stones and get better ones.
As for the choice of stones, you should generally be as careful as possible with them. If chosen incorrectly, they can poison the bathhouse owner. Take jadeite and basalt. Crimson quartzite is also suitable. But generally go around the gabro-diabase using the tenth road. It’s difficult to choose, but it’s not worth the risk. The probability that the stones are of high quality is 50/50.
Water seal is a specially created water plug that protects the room from the unpleasant “aroma” of sewage. Water accumulates in the curved section of the pipe, completely blocking the diameter. Thus, the water does not allow bad odors to enter the room.
When is it necessary to use a water seal in a bath?
It is necessary to use such a design for sewerage if water is drained into the general water supply system. If the liquid is drained into a pit outside the bathhouse, there will be no bad smell. If the bathhouse sewerage system was connected to common system, then you can use ready-made siphons (as for a washbasin or bathroom) of any type. Metal or plastic corrugated hose or bottle-type closures are commercially available. In rare cases, cast iron water seals are found, but they have not been produced for several years. In essence, such a device consists of two glasses inserted into one another. After the floors in the bathhouse are filled, the top of the water seal should be in a small recess to completely drain the liquid.
This device has two main advantages:
- it should serve as a settling tank;
- even if the water inside it freezes, it should not be damaged.
Making a water seal yourself
You can do it quite simply with your own hands. To do this, you need to take a piece of pipe of the required diameter and bend it in the shape of the letter “U” and weld it to the pipe after the drain funnel (usually its height is 50-70 mm). It is best to do this when laying the foundation and arranging the floor, however, if the bathhouse is already ready, and an unpleasant odor overshadows your stay in it, then you can install it later.
If the sewer pipes are accessible and the foundation of the building is columnar, this will greatly facilitate the work. You can weld the required piece of pipe to the drain pipe under the bathhouse. If there is no access to the pipes, then it will need to be organized: disassemble part of the floor if it is made of wood, or cut it out using a grinder if it is concrete. After this, a bended pipe is attached to the sewer using welding or a coupling.
It is also necessary to take into account that water can evaporate, and if you do not use the sewer for a long time, after 40-50 days it will completely dry out and gases will freely enter the room.
What is a dry water seal?
This design can also be dry. There is no water in it, and dry materials are used as a damper. This option, as you understand, is not capable of freezing, and it comes in several types:
it is a membrane held in place by a spring when there is no water. When liquid enters, the spring power is not enough to hold it, the flap rises and the liquid drains. An object of a certain shape (often large diameter ball) blocks the air passage. When liquid enters, the object floats, opening the drain. More complex models use molecular memory of the material.
You can make a simple dry water seal for a bathhouse with your own hands; there is nothing complicated about it. You need to choose a plastic ball slightly larger than the drain pipe. When there is no water, such a ball will block the access of air from the sewer. As soon as the liquid flows, the drain will be released. This type of system can also work in winter time, even if the ball freezes to the drain, a little boiling water can literally melt the ice in a matter of minutes, and the system will work normally.
Water seal in the bath
A water seal is a specially created water plug that protects the room from the unpleasant “aroma” of sewage.
Water seal for sauna sewer
A water seal is a specially created water plug that prevents sewer “odors” from entering the room. Water accumulates in the curved section of the pipe, completely blocking the diameter. Thus, water prevents odors from penetrating into the room.
The principle of organizing a water seal for sewerage
When to use a water seal in a bath
In a bathhouse, you need to use a water seal for the sewer if the water drains into the general drainage system. If the water is drained outside the bathhouse into a pit, from where it is absorbed, there cannot be any smell in this case.
If the bathhouse sewerage system is connected to a common system, you can use ready-made siphons (as for a bathtub or washbasin) of any design. Plastic or metal bottle-type closures or corrugated hose closures are available for sale.
Bottle type sewer seal
Sometimes you can still find a cast iron water seal, but their production stopped several years ago, and they are found mainly in old houses.
This is what a water seal for plastic sewerage looks like
CENTER AQUAPA water seals are available for sale, which are inserted into a plastic pipe with a diameter of 55 mm or 110 mm.
The CENTER AQUAPA water seal is inserted into a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm
In essence, the water seal consists of two glasses inserted into one another.
Upper and lower parts of the CENTER AQUAPA water seal
After pouring the floors in the bathhouse, the top of the water seal should be in a small recess to completely drain the water.
The upper part of the water seal is at the level of the lowest point
This water seal has two advantages:
- It additionally serves as a settling tank;
- Even if the water freezes in the water seal, it will not be damaged.
How to make a water seal with your own hands
You can make a water seal with your own hands quite easily. To do this, a piece of pipe of suitable diameter must be bent in the shape of the letter “U” and welded (connected using couplings) to the pipe after the drain funnel (the height of the water seal is usually 50-70 mm). It is advisable to do this while laying the foundation and arranging the floors, but if the bathhouse is already functioning and the smell bothers you, you can try to eliminate this nuisance.
If the foundation is columnar and sewer pipes are accessible, this makes things easier. Under the bathhouse, you can weld the required piece of pipe to the drain pipe. If there is no access to the pipes, you will have to organize it: dismantle part of the floor if it is wooden, or cut it out with a grinder if it is concrete. Then connect a bended pipe to the sewer using couplings or welding.
It is necessary to take into account that water evaporates from any water seal. And if you do not use the sewer for a long time, after 40-50 days it will completely dry out, and gases from the sewer will freely penetrate into the room.
What is a dry water seal
There is another option for a water seal - dry. There is no water in it, and they are used as a damper various materials. As you understand, such a water seal does not freeze. There are several types of dry water seals for sewerage:
- This is a membrane that is held in place by a spring if there is no water. When water enters, the power of the spring is not enough to hold it, the damper rises and the water drains.
This is what a drain with a dry water seal looks like
- An object of a certain shape (usually a ball larger than the diameter of the pipe) blocks the air passage. As soon as water enters, the object floats up, opening the drain.
- More technologically complex models that use molecular memory of materials.
For a bathhouse, you can make a basic dry water seal with your own hands, it’s quite simple. You need to choose a plastic ball slightly larger than the drain pipe. Put it on the pipe and make some kind of chamber within which it will be located. When there is no water, the ball blocks the access of air from the sewer. When water enters, it floats up (within the chamber) and releases the drain. This system is also functional in winter conditions.: Even if the ball freezes to the drain, a little hot water will melt the ice in a matter of minutes and the system will function normally.
Sewer seal for a bathhouse - types and features of self-production
There are different types of water seals for a bathhouse, so you need to make sure you don’t make a mistake in choosing one. Sometimes it is better to use a water seal, and sometimes a dry seal.
Water seal for sewerage in a bathhouse
Any rural option, when the water from the bathhouse simply goes outside, into the cracks between the boards, has its own difficulties. And if the site has a main or autonomous sewer system, then another task arises - to get rid of the penetration of gases from the sewer into the bathhouse. There is a simple solution - install a water seal.
What is a water seal
They come in two types:
U-shaped (knee) water seal
From the picture it is absolutely clear that this is a simple device, similar to a hookah, unlike does not allow air to pass through, creating a water plug. And what happens in a hookah is called a breakdown of the water seal.
The diameter of the pipe and the method of connection can only affect the performance of such a device, the main thing that is required of it is tightness, and its lowest point should be at least 50 mm below the drain pipe.
Any materials at hand will be suitable for the water seal, but we must not forget that in the case where access to it is closed, reliability and the ability to clean it are of decisive importance.
The second picture shows how water, having evaporated from the plug (and this will definitely happen in 40-50 days), opens the possibility for air to penetrate from the sewer.
So you need to either periodically fill it with water, or use a different type of water seal, or seal it hermetically during a long absence.
Bottle water seal
From this figure it is clear that another constructive solution did not change the function of this device - to create a water plug. Another name for this thing is siphon.
It is also clear that the pipe connection must be airtight. Such a water seal is also a settling tank.
The lower part of a regular bottle siphon for washing can be unscrewed for cleaning, and if a homemade valve of this type is used, for example, in the floor, then upper part must be collapsible.
Dry water seals
Most current question for a bathhouse with a drain into the sewer, it’s not so much the choice of drain design as the laying of the line itself. Any ready-made version of the ladder from the store, including the “dry” one, contains a water seal with a water column of 30 mm or more, so If you use the sauna regularly, there will be no problems with the water plug drying out.. And anyone who knows that the bathhouse will not be in use for a long time can simply plug the drain.
For those who want to forget and not remember about the dried siphon, there are so-called dry drains.
There are two types of dry water seal.
Float type
It is best to consider a specific sample, for example, the Austrian HL 310 NPr.
Vertical drain. The top element is trimmed to the right size from 12 to 70 mm and embedded in the screed.
The polyethylene body is designed for waste water temperatures up to 85 degrees. Installation procedure for different cases described in the passport.
The float, when the water dries out, simply lowers and closes the pipe. The height of the water column of the valve is 50 mm (corresponds to Austrian city regulations).
The principle of operation is clearly visible in the picture.
In the working position, the water raises and holds the float at the same level and the system works as one of the water seal options. If the bath for a long time is not used, the water from the valve evaporates, and the float closes the drain hole before the water has completely evaporated.
Craftsmen have come up with an option that can work no worse than the factory one. The main difference from this scheme is that such a float is in the form of an inverted glass, fixed so that its bottom is higher drain hole greater than the diameter of the drain pipe. And the hole itself is covered by a light ball with a diameter larger than the drain one - it acts as a float.
Pendulum type
The photo shows a specific example - a dry shutter for 100 mm drains in the neck - Viega 583255.
Below, near the shutter, two curtains are visible, suspended at an angle to the vertical - this is the pendulum shutter. The curtains are closed due to their own weight, and the water opens them when drained. The height of the water column of the water seal is 32 mm - quite enough for a country bath. In Germany itself, which is declared as the manufacturing country, when designing a sewerage system in urban houses, it is assumed that plumbing fixtures in apartments have a water column height of the water seal equal to 50-60 mm, but not 32!
If the force of gravity that closes the curtains is replaced by the force of a spring, then will work out different options spring type dry valves, with more possibilities.
Of course, all of the valves listed contain some version of a siphon.
There is another type of dry closures, for which sometimes too abstruse names are invented, such as cellular memory of the material. Usually they are a stocking made of flattened rubber, which begins to let water through under low pressure. This is unlikely to be of interest for a country bathhouse.
Skillful owners, even with very limited funds, can easily reproduce and, possibly, improve any type of water seal.
Floor and drainage
Laying a sewer line is much more hassle than directly draining a bathhouse, but it is better to do it, the more carefully, the better.
Even if the floor in the bathhouse is covered with wooden grates, then it’s still better to make a screed along the beacons with a slight uniform slope towards the ladder, and lay tiles on it. The final cutting of the drain extension can be done when it is known exactly at what height the tiles will approach the drain point. If the work is done very carefully, then even with a minimal slope there will be no puddles.
Providing access, with the ability to replace all elements, is too much of a luxury for an ordinary bathhouse. Therefore, you should not avoid work that may seem unnecessary, for example, the depth of sewerage installation should not be less than the freezing depth. Insulating the floor under the screed with a 20 cm layer of expanded clay with a rich cement mortar is by no means an excess. A dry ladder is also not a panacea - dirt that gets into the shutter can prevent it from closing tightly. At the end of the season, it doesn’t hurt to wash the removable elements. Buying a dry water seal in a store or making it yourself - this question is not necessarily related to financial difficulties.
Dry water seal for sewerage in a bathhouse: factory-made and home-made options
Types of water seals. What is the difference between a dry water seal and a wet one? Is it possible to make a dry water seal for a sewage system in a bathhouse yourself?
Let's start building a bathhouse
Creating a drain hole
Building a bathhouse is not a complicated process. Integral elements of this room are a stove, a steam room and a drainage pit. Before starting masonry work, you should pay close attention to creating a future drain for proper drainage. Do this design it is necessary in such a way that the pit is in operation for a long period of time, and the water flow flows unhindered. At the same time, the drain should not emit sharp or unpleasant odors, nor create obstacles in the area.
Before building a bathhouse, you need to draw up a plan with detailed dimensions all premises.
To carry out construction work we will need the following tools:
- concrete mixer;
- 2 shovels – bayonet and shovel;
- several buckets (up to 5 pieces);
- trowel;
- pick;
- ladder;
- building level;
- roulette;
- tamping;
- pliers.
The location of the wastewater pit may vary. It can be placed inside the bathhouse under the floor, where the sink will be located, and outside the foundation of the building. When the drainage pit is intended for temporary use, it can be made small and located behind the bathhouse. For periodic cleaning, cover it with a lid or leave it open.
The creation of a temporary pit for drainage is in most cases carried out on land plots consisting of clay-type soils.
Schematic design of a drain.
The “rough” floor is covered with a 20-centimeter layer of expanded clay, which helps to increase the service life of the concrete floor, levels out temperature differences in winter and prevents the pit from freezing during cold periods. The entire floor area is reinforced with corner pieces, thick wire or pipes that are attached to the pit lid. Fill concrete mortar carried out with slopes directed from the walls to the drain.
Creating a drain hole
Products made of metal, asbestos or plastic can be used as drain pipes. Plastic pipes are more preferable due to their low price and ease of installation.
Building a bathhouse is not a complicated process. Integral elements of this room are a stove, a steam room and a drainage pit. Before starting masonry work, you should pay close attention to creating a future drain for proper drainage. This design must be made in such a way that the pit is in use for a long period of time, and the water flow flows unhindered. At the same time, the drain should not emit sharp or unpleasant odors, nor create obstacles in the area.
The location of the wastewater pit may vary. It can be placed inside the bathhouse under the floor, where the sink will be located, and outside the foundation of the building. When the drainage pit is intended for temporary use, it can be made small and located behind the bathhouse. For periodic cleaning, cover it with a lid or leave it open. The creation of a temporary pit for drainage is in most cases carried out on land plots consisting of clay-type soils.
In the case where it is planned to create a permanent drain, the pit should be placed in the central part of the bathhouse. Its dimensions should be as follows: length and width - up to 0.5 m, depth - up to 1.5 m. The walls of the drainage pit are filled with a 20-centimeter layer of concrete mortar, which is reinforced with metal mesh and compacted with small stones or pieces of brick.
Scheme of a drainage pit made from old tires.
After concreting the walls, the pit is covered wooden planks impregnated with a used diesel oil mixture. To cover the pit, you can use formwork boards, removing them after the poured mortar has hardened. A concrete cover is poured on top of the boards, the thickness of which is approximately 10 cm. The cover is pre-reinforced with wire. To strengthen the walls of the pit, you can use concrete or metal rings (half rings). The main thing is that when carrying out this process, the entire structure is firmly strengthened and does not fail.
A drain hole should be made for the pit cover. In this case, it must be connected to the water seal. In turn, the water seal is located in the most convenient and accessible place in the bathhouse. In terms of technological features, the creation of a drainage pit is somewhat reminiscent of the construction of a septic tank, but in much smaller volumes and sizes.
The main design solution to prevent unpleasant odors
The water seal prevents the penetration of unpleasant odors from the drainage hole into the interior of the bathhouse, which contributes to a comfortable stay in the room. The shutter is made of metal and installed before pouring the floor or concreted in a small recess into which a plate made of durable tin is inserted (it is better to use stainless steel or non-ferrous metal). The bottom of the plate should be approximately 5-10 mm below the drain pipe. The water seal is usually made at the lowest point in the middle of the room. The entire surface is reinforced with metal wire and support.
Water seal for baths and drains: creation process and location
A water seal for a bathhouse prevents the penetration of unpleasant odors from the drainage hole into the interior of the room, which contributes to a comfortable stay in it.
Do-it-yourself sewerage in the bathhouse diagram
Long gone are the unsightly bathhouse buildings with the random flow of dirty water into “nowhere” or the nearest body of water. Today, sewerage in a bathhouse is not a luxury, but a necessity. The installation of a high-quality wastewater disposal system is prompted not only by ethical and aesthetic standards, but also by legal requirements aimed at ensuring the environmental safety of the environment.
Do-it-yourself sauna sewer
The first step to improving the bathhouse is assessing the condition of the soil on the site, determining the optimal depth for laying pipes and deciding on the location of the septic tank. It’s easiest for those homeowners who were directly involved in the construction of the bathhouse or built (are building) it themselves. It is no secret to them the type of soil, its freezing point (FPP) and groundwater level (GWL).
Have you built a sauna with your own hands? This means you should already have data on soil geology
Without knowledge of these indicators, it is impossible to build a trouble-free sewer system. For those who have purchased a plot with a bathhouse built on it, you will need to perform a set of simple observations and calculations.
Independent study of the geology of the site
To determine the type of soil, you can conduct a rapid study that does not require special knowledge and is based on visual inspection and tactile sensations. For this purpose, in the proposed pipe laying location, a hole is dug with a depth of 25-30 cm below the TPG. Information about the depth of soil freezing in a given area can be obtained from neighbors, from reference books, and on specialized Internet resources.
Soil freezing depth
It is important to take a soil sample at the bottom of the pit, since sewer pipes will be laid at this level. After which the soil sample is carefully examined visually, rubbed between the palms, and rolled into a rope.
And they evaluate the results according to the table.
Methods for determining soils
If it turns out that the soil is clay or loam, you should know that these categories of soil are classified as highly heaving. In this case, the pipes will need to be laid on a sand “cushion” by analogy with “floating” foundations. The sand will act as a shock absorber during seasonal soil movements and the integrity of the underground part of the sewer system will not be compromised.
After the safe depth for laying the pipeline has been determined, the issue of the location of the septic tank (filtration well) is resolved. The wastewater collection point must be separated from the water intake point by at least 15 m and located no closer than 7 m from the foundation of the bathhouse.
Choosing the type of sewer system
To improve the bathhouse, it is possible to use three types of individual sewerage:
- non-pressure;
- pressure;
- connected to a centralized city drainage system or to the existing sewer system of a private house.
Gravity system
The non-pressure method of drainage is otherwise called gravity. This is the simplest and least expensive type of sewage system for a bathhouse. Its main advantage: energy independence. Installation of a free-flow system requires careful adherence to the slope of the pipes (1-1.5 cm per 1 linear meter) and is impossible with complex terrain.
To transport wastewater, pipes of a larger diameter are required than when installing a pressure system. Straightness of the highway is highly desirable. If the pipeline diagram includes turning points, inspection wells are installed in these places. This rule is relevant for any type of sewer system.
Installation of non-pressure sewer pipes 
Lookout well
Pressure system
General scheme of pressure sewerage
The pressure sewer system provides for the forced transportation of wastewater, which is provided by a pump or pumping station. The equipment can be installed both indoors and outdoors. A pressure sewerage system for a bathhouse is built if for some reason it is impossible to make a non-pressure one. Features of this type of sewer:
- pressure is more expensive than non-pressure;
- volatile;
- requires insulation of equipment in winter.
Pressure sewer with sewage pump 
Pressure sewer pipe
Inset sewerage system
A less labor-intensive, but most troublesome way is to connect to a centralized sewer network. This method is not possible for all bathhouse owners. Therefore, it makes no sense to consider it in all details.
Connection to a centralized sewer network
More often, it is used to connect the wastewater system to an existing septic tank on the site. However, in this case, you will have to choose the type of drainage system (pressure or gravity).
Connection to a septic tank
We design a sewerage scheme for a bathhouse
For greater design convenience, the unified sewer system is divided into two types: internal and external. The first includes communications indoors, the second - outside the building. Once you familiarize yourself with the basic principles of constructing a circuit, it is easy to develop it yourself.
Design stages
- It is necessary to draw a plan of the bathhouse, taking into account the thickness of the walls and partitions of the building. Graph paper is best for this purpose, but you can also use a regular piece of checkered paper.
Rules for designing an external network:
- an inspection hatch is provided at the junction of the external and internal sewerage;
- according to SNiP, inspection wells are installed at the turning points of the main line, at the points of connection of a separate side branch of the pipeline, every 15-35 m of a straight main line with a pipe diameter of 100-150 mm;
- according to SNiP, the slope of external sewerage with a pipe diameter of 110-150 mm is 0.01 (1 cm per 1 meter);
- the first inspection well should be located no closer than 3 m and no further than 12 m from the bathhouse;
- if the site has a large slope and there is a toilet in the room, install a multi-stage sewerage system with drop-off wells.
Approximate diagram of the internal sewage system of a bathhouse
Water seal options
A water seal is an important element of the sewer system, the purpose of which is to cut off unpleasant odors coming from the septic tank (drainage pit). Simply put, this is a water plug that remains in the pipe even if the bathhouse is not in use. An example of the simplest water seal is a U-shaped siphon. In a pipeline made of plastic pipes, a water plug is created using three shaped elements: bends.
The difficulty is that when the sewer system is rarely used, the water in the water seal tends to evaporate. In this case, experts recommend installing a dry shutter. It is a simple plastic or metal structure equipped with a spring and a valve (membrane) that blocks the exit from the pipe. When water enters the system, the damper is folded back under its pressure, and after the flow passes, it returns to its place.
Craftsmen make unique homemade valve systems for bath drains. If you wish, you can use one of the following options.
A funnel and ball valve. Example for clarity
Dry seal in the sewer pit
Which pipes to choose
In fact, the choice of sewer pipes is not so large.
Cast iron pipes for sewerage
- PVC (polyvinyl chloride);
- PVC (chlorinated polyvinyl chloride);
- PP (polypropylene);
- HDPE (low density polyethylene);
- polyethylene corrugated.
Any of these products can be safely used in a sewer system. The diameter of the main line is selected based on the expected intensity of operation of the building and the number of drain points. For an average bathhouse with a steam room, washing area and toilet, when installing a gravity drainage system, pipes with a cross-section of 100-110 mm are required. If a toilet is not provided, a diameter of 50 mm is sufficient. Plumbing equipment is connected to the main line with pipes with a cross-section of 50 mm.
Installation of the internal sanitary sewage system
It is necessary to start installing a sewer system at the construction stage of the bathhouse. But it is also possible to improve a building that is already ready and has been in use for a long time. The scope of work and their sequence are different in both cases, so each option must be considered separately.
Pipes for internal sewerage of a bath
Installation of sewerage during the construction phase of a bathhouse
To carry out the work, you will need a previously drawn up plan (diagram) of the sewer system. In order to accurately find the connection points for plumbing elements (drains, showers, toilets, sinks, etc.), markings begin after the foundation has been erected. In places where the main line is laid, trenches of appropriate width and depth are dug.
Important: The bottom of each ditch is leveled taking into account the required slope towards the septic tank.
Then they begin laying the pipes. Experts advise starting the installation of a sewer system with the installation of the main pipe and large (nodal) elements, to which they are subsequently connected side branches smaller diameter.
Installation of sewer system
At the plumbing connection points, vertical pipes are installed. To prevent foreign objects from entering the network, each outlet is closed with a plug. Install the ventilation riser.
At the connection points, plumbers install vertical pipes with plugs
In regions with cold climates, pipes are insulated. For this purpose, fibrous materials (mineral wool and its analogues), foam half-cylinders, and foamed polyethylene are used. If desired, you can pre-wrap the pipes with noise-absorbing material, which will significantly reduce the volume of sounds emitted by the operating system.
Form a sand cushion.
Installation of indoor sewage system
If the bathhouse has been in use for more than a year, you can also install a drainage system in it dirty waters. To do this, you will need to draw up a diagram and open the floor in the right places. The pipes are installed at the foundation level, in one of the walls of which a hole is drilled to lead out the main line.
Drains are installed in the washing room and steam room. When performing work, the following rules are adhered to:
- the ladder must be located flush with the floor;
- gaps are closed with moisture-resistant grouts;
- tiles are laid after installing the ladder.
Installation of external sewerage for a bathhouse
The main element of the external wastewater disposal system is the septic tank. If the bathhouse does not have a toilet, there is no need to buy a factory-made product or independently equip a well with multi-level filtration of wastewater. It is enough to dig a drainage hole. But it is only relevant for soils with high level moisture permeability (rocky, sandy, sandy loam).
Video - DIY drain hole
Installation of sewerage with a drainage pit
- According to the diagram, they mark the area: find the location of the wastewater collection point, determine the route for laying the main line;
- dig a hole 1-1.5 m deep below the TPG;
- a 20-30 cm layer of sand and gravel is poured onto the bottom;
- to prevent soil walls from collapsing, you can install a metal container or a column of large-diameter tires in the pit. A more solid structure is a frame built of brick.
They begin to lay the highway. Dig a trench to a depth below the TPG and form a slope towards the drainage hole. Lay the pipes and check that the slope complies with the requirements of SNiP.
At the turning points of the pipeline, inspection wells are installed. In order to prevent pipes from freezing in these places during cold times, it is necessary to provide insulation and cover the holes with double covers.
The place where the pipe enters the drainage pit is sealed using cement mortar or polyurethane foam.
Insulation of the main line is carried out using any in a convenient way: by wrapping pipes with mineral wool or by laying foam.
Sewerage with pit
In areas with clay soil To dispose of wastewater, it is recommended to install a pit located under the floor of the bathhouse. The presence of this drainage receiver does not relieve the owner from the need to install an external main that transports water outside the premises. The pit serves as an auxiliary structure for the smooth operation of the sewer system.
Sewerage with pit
A square-shaped pit is dug under the floor with an edge length of at least half a meter and a depth of 1-1.5 m. At a height of 10-15 cm from the floor level, a pipe is installed connecting the pit with external sewerage. Maintain a slope of 1 cm per 1 linear meter in the direction of water drainage. The bottom and walls of the pit are concreted.
Highlights
The owner of a bathhouse must remember that each stage of sewerage installation requires careful compliance with the requirements for it. The failure-free operation of the system is ensured by a properly designed scheme and exact compliance of the pipe slope with SNiP standards. The comfort of staying in the bathhouse is guaranteed by the presence of a hydro- or dry seal.
You should not neglect the design of the ventilation system, as it forms optimal air exchange and promotes the removal of moisture after bath procedures. This will help prevent the formation of mildew and mold. For regions with cold climates, it is extremely important to perform high-quality work on insulating the sewer system.
Do-it-yourself sewerage in a bathhouse, diagram and step-by-step instructions!
Find out how to install outdoor and internal sewerage. Selection of pipes, installation options, do-it-yourself sewerage in the bathhouse diagram, photo + video.
Unprofessional actions of installers during construction can lead to undesirable consequences. In this regard, the question often arises of how to eliminate the smell of sewage in a bathhouse. To solve this problem, you need to find out why it arose.
Clearing the blockage
Most often the smell is observed when wrong choice hydraulic valve - a curved pipe filled with water and designed to separate adjacent gas environments. The siphon prevents the appearance of an unpleasant odor in the bathhouse, but only if nothing interferes with its operation. Experts recommend choosing hydraulic valves of the maximum diameter and avoiding blockages.
Creating ventilation
When building a bathhouse, you need to take care of creating sewer ventilation. Together with a hydraulic shutter, this system will ensure that there is no unpleasant odor in the building. Ventilation consists of pipes connected to the sewer system and providing air flow. The result is the maintenance of constant pressure and silent removal of wastewater.
The absence or incorrect design of ventilation leads to the fact that when draining domestic wastewater, thin air occurs and the appearance of odor. If you have some skill, you can make ventilation yourself from a 50 mm pipe. It is brought out onto the roof of the building and covered with a special cap.
Pipe sealing
An equally common cause of unpleasant odor is depressurization. To prevent this problem from occurring, you need to use special rubber gaskets at the junctions of plastic pipes. They need to be changed or applied silicone sealant when leaks are detected.
An unpleasant odor often arises in the bathhouse, which prevents you from steaming and having a good time. There are different reasons for its appearance, on which the sequence of actions depends. If you cannot solve the problem yourself, you should turn to professionals.
