The sauna is a great place to spend free time and improve your health.

However, a quality stay in it can only be ensured thanks to ventilation.

During the construction of a steam room, a special role is always given to proper ventilation of the sauna.

This is explained by the following reasons:

• Provides admission fresh air .
• She is the one who is capable distribute oxygen throughout the room heat it evenly and evenly.
• Will contribute to rapid removal of accumulated carbon dioxide, which will facilitate the process of staying in such a space.
• Due to ventilation in the steam room, proper air circulation, which avoids excessive moisture deposition on all wooden surfaces. As a result, the tree will last longer, it will not become covered with a layer of mold and fungus harmful to the human body, and will not rot.
• Correct the operation of the stove also directly depends on air exchange.
• Eliminates the possibility of suffocation, because quite often a group of people gather in the steam room and can drink alcohol to improve their mood. Without an influx of fresh air, within 30 minutes it will be almost impossible to breathe in such a room.
• The entire room can be well ventilated and thoroughly dried, which is important for a comfortable stay in it.

Paying attention to all the above arguments and asking yourself the question:

Is ventilation needed in a sauna? There is, of course, a clear answer - yes!

The main thing is to do it in a timely and correct manner in order to avoid the processes of wood rotting, drafts and unpleasant odor, which will not please visitors to the steam room.

Proper ventilation of a sauna or bathhouse

Access to fresh air and maintaining constant, high temperature can only be achieved thanks to the presence of ventilation in the Finnish sauna. It cannot exist without exhaust and inflow.

The exhaust in the sauna is needed to remove carbon dioxide from it, and the influx creates all the conditions for pure oxygen to enter the room.

Before you start construction, you need to know about unchanging rules and standards for creating it in a bathhouse.

• After 25-30 minutes of using the sauna, it often becomes difficult to breathe in it, your head begins to feel dizzy and hurt. The reason for this lies in the fact that there is an incorrect change in the musty air filled with steam and human sweat. According to SNIP, the air in such enclosed spaces must be renewed at least 5-6 times per hour. Moreover, its speed can be at least 20 cubic meters for 60 minutes.
• The exhaust pipe should not be very narrow. It is better to make its diameter the same as that of the inlet.
• Inlet openings may only be placed at the bottom. The permissible height from the floor cannot be less than 20 cm. Install it strictly behind the stove. Otherwise cold air will not have time to warm up, which will entail the presence of drafts and uncomfortable sensations for people staying in such a closed space.
• To know what pipe cross-section you need to purchase, you should take into account certain norms and rules: per 1 cubic meter of the room being equipped there must be a pipe with a cross-section of at least 24 centimeters.
• The inlet and outlet openings cannot be opposite each other.
• It is imperative to think about the possibility of adjusting the air flow, reducing or increasing it. This can be done using valves that are installed in the vents of the bath.
• Often in a sauna there is a gap between the bottom of the door and the floor. due to the absence of a threshold or its very low height. Need it for natural exhaust in the Finnish sauna.

The oxygen flow pattern will look correct only if there is more than one hood in the room in question. Paying attention to where the inflow is located, the first exhaust hole is installed strictly on the opposite side of it at a height of up to one metre. The second must be done directly under the ceiling. The main thing at this stage of work is to connect both openings with a single box leading into the chimney or common exhaust duct.

Let's look at the operating principle of a Finnish sauna:

1. Before starting the steam room, it should be thoroughly ventilated, which will freshen the air.
2. Close the outlets and doors using valves, which will allow the air in the steam room to heat up quite quickly.
3. The inlet valve remains open. This is done in order to avoid air thinning.
4. After waiting for the room to completely warm up, we monitor proper ventilation in the sauna. To do this, open the lower channel slightly. This is how the gradual movement of oxygen begins. At the same time, you need to remember that the upper channel should not be opened, so as not to lose well-heated air from the bath. Fresh, cool air, after entering through the supply channel, is slowly warmed up by the stove and immediately begins to gradually displace the air that has already become stagnant.

Such a system will not be noticeable to people if its preliminary installation is carried out correctly, adhering to all the advice and recommendations of specialists. While in it, vacationers will not even feel discomfort and will enjoy a pleasant temperature and comfortable humidity.

An equally important role is played by the stove, which is installed either in the steam room or in a separate room. It is made of metal and lined with brick on the outside. Performs the following functions in the sauna:

• Heats the total area of ​​the room.
• Heats up the water.
• Produces steam.

When choosing this device, you should be guided by the following criteria:

• Size is great if the oven is small, which will save space.
• Must be reliable and safe.
• Have the ability to heat up quickly.
• Have a low cost.
• Must have a long shelf life in order to constantly withstand heavy loads and temperature changes.
• When choosing a stove, first of all, consider its power and size relative to the size of the sauna.

Kinds

Today, there are three types of sauna ventilation. Let's look at each of them in more detail.

Natural

Occurs due to pressure differences indoors and outdoors. Characterized by low costs installation work, as well as ease of operation. This is done in the following ways:

• Due to wind pressure, which seems possible only in buildings made of logs. Air pressure inside a room arises due to powerful gusts of wind, which create a significant vacuum of air on the leeward side. The movement of air in and out occurs through the gaps between the logs.

The disadvantage of this type of ventilation is that it is impossible to regulate it, which directly affects the temperature inside the bath.

As a result of strong winds, drafts are possible, which also causes no less inconvenience for vacationers.

• Thanks to aeration. Its meaning lies in the penetration of air masses directly from the street through the bottom of the room, in which there are special vents. Street air, entering the sauna, squeezes out a hot stream from above and directs them into the air duct. This sauna ventilation system is perfect for rooms with very hot air and a lot of steam. Oxygen circulation occurs very quickly here.

Mechanical

It is installed only in cases where it is impossible to provide fresh ventilation in the sauna. That is why it is also called forced. It consists of quite expensive elements: coolers, heaters, fans and air filters.

To achieve the exit of treated air from the room, when forced ventilation In the sauna, exhaust fans are used, on which filters must be installed.

This type of ventilation is used in very large rooms, where there are swimming pools, showers and a huge number of visitors. It makes the air clean from steam, sweat and unpleasant odors in a short time.

Using mechanical ventilation, forced oxygen flow is used. This is achieved through a very complex system, which has the following components:

• Supply chamber.
• Mechanisms that reduce noise.
• Diffusers.
• Check valves.
• Distribution grids.

To ensure that the supply air is comfortable when entering the room, it is pre-cleaned and heated.

Combined

It is used in baths only if this is directly due to the peculiarities of their structure. Thus, a sauna located in a house and bordering three of its walls with common housing cannot have natural ventilation. In this case, it will not be possible to arrange the inlet and outlet holes according to all the rules. Therefore, in compliance with the standards, it is allowed to equip the supply opening at a height of at least 20 cm from the floor, and the exhaust opening is placed on the same wall at a similar distance from the ceiling.

The principle of operation of such air exchange is that cold air enters the room, passes it through the stove, heats it and circulates throughout the sauna.

Be sure to install valves on all openings to regulate the flow.

The disadvantage of such a system is the rather strong speed and amount of air masses.

In some cases, the supply channel is mounted not under the heater, but above it. The outlet is placed on the opposite side a few centimeters higher. This will reduce the air flow, but there is rice that does not have enough air flow. To avoid this, a fan is additionally installed in the outlet channel.

Ventilation system diagrams

There are three device schemes:

• Express consists of installing the supply channel strictly behind the stove at a level of 20 cm from the floor. Be sure to place an exhaust vent on the opposite wall at the same distance, inside which a fan is placed.

The street air entering the room is instantly warmed up by the stove, which is already hot at that time. Then it rises to the ceiling, cools down a little, lowers it down and is taken out of the bathhouse. Thanks to this air flow, the most comfortable temperature for the human body is achieved, because all air masses are mixed gradually and evenly.

• If the sauna is located inside an existing premises and it has only one wall bordering the street, the inlet and outlet channels are mounted on this surface. Main conditions: they are located at the same distance from the floor and ceiling (20 cm) directly opposite the stove. So, there is a forced outflow at the top, and an inflow at the bottom.

With this scheme, the air entering the room is immediately directed to the stove and gradually heated, after which it is discharged outside.

• The mildest heating of air masses is achieved through the use of this scheme. Its principle is to locate the inlet channel behind the stove at a height of 60 cm from the floor, and the outlet channel with a fan just on the opposite wall at a height of 20 cm from the floor.

Outdoor oxygen, penetrating into the room, heats up and rises. Already slightly cooled air masses leave the building. Thanks to the slower flow, staying in such a sauna becomes very comfortable.

Ventilation device in the sauna

When planning to make ventilation in the sauna with your own hands, you should not forget that you need to ensure high-quality air exchange for the floor of this room. Otherwise the premises will quickly fall into disrepair, and flooring will not last more than 3 years.

Floor ventilation involves the following stages:

1. During construction concrete base install vents on opposite walls of the basement. If the foundation has already been built, then any interference with its integrity can significantly affect the quality of the entire structure.
2. Cut in opposite walls through holes for air intake, which are recommended to be covered with metal grilles. This will prevent various rodents and insects from entering the room.
3. When arranging the stove, the vent should be slightly below the upper floor level, which will allow it to work as a hood.
4. When installing floor boards, it is necessary to leave small gaps between them, the size of which should not exceed 10 mm. This will allow water naturally come out through the floor.

Let's look at how to make ventilation in a sauna depending on its location.

Ventilation in a sauna with an electric heater:

• Be sure to leave a height gap of up to 5 cm under the door.
• The inlet channel is placed under the stove.
• Exit holes are made on the opposite wall: one above the floor, the other under the ceiling.
• For proper operation, the holes are connected by a box, which is discharged into the chimney or the entire ventilation system Houses.
• Shutters are installed on the air ducts, which makes it possible to regulate the flow.

Ventilation of a sauna in a private house requires the presence of ideal waterproofing material in such a room.

Most often it is placed near the bathroom, because it already has its own hood, which facilitates the process of connecting two air exchanges.

Ventilation in the sauna in the basement is connected using ducts to common system Houses. In these types of baths, an electric stove is installed on the floor or hung on the wall.

• We should also not forget about ventilation errors in a home sauna:
• Air duct diagrams need to be thought out in advance.
• Lack of clearance under the door and an opening for inflow can lead to suffocation.
• Creating a hole only for air outflow results in a lack of air circulation.
• The absence of valves results in an inability to regulate flow.
• The input and output channels are placed opposite each other at the same level, which leads to the presence of drafts.
• For ventilation, you should not use too expensive equipment, because constant temperature fluctuations will quickly require repairs and, possibly, renewal of some components.

How much does it cost

When planning to make ventilation in the sauna with your own hands, you need to know that its cost will cost approximately 24-38 thousand rubles. Everything will depend on the cost of components.

• A ventilation valve can be purchased for 650-1500 rubles.
• A grill for 300-400 rubles.
• Supply and exhaust system for 18,500 rubles.

Creating a high-quality air exchange system is an important part of the operation of a sauna, so the selection of its components, as well as the installation process, must be approached thoughtfully and in a timely manner.

Often to provide ventilation you can limit yourself to aeration. It is necessary to make holes with dampers, it is advisable to choose the recommended places so that the air circulation is soft and constantly maintained. If necessary, you can use forced air exchange systems.

Above the stove

Opening for outside air equipped above the heater. The output is made in the opposite wall; it should be lower than the input. The warm flow will rise as a stream of cold air and exit through the hole. Thanks to the constant release of warm air, cold air will not be able to enter through the outlet.

Behind the stove

The air inlet hole can be positioned at the bottom of the wall behind the stove. The stove will heat the incoming, cold air, so there will be no drafts or sudden temperature changes. Output channels can be built in the floor. They can pass through the underground, passing into a ventilation pipe that removes air to the street. The air outflow created according to this scheme allows you to save heat, helps reduce heating costs, and gives comfort to those in the bathhouse. The main advantage is additional heating of the subfloor. It dries well, so it does not grow mold and various fungi.

Under the stove

A hole is made next to the stove as low as possible. When cold air passes by the stove, it heats up, so it rises. Exit holes are made in the corner located opposite the stove. To create the first, you need to measure 1 meter from the floor, and the second is built under the ceiling. They are combined by a ventilation duct, which can be brought to the roof, for example, through the attic.

Underfloor hood

The hole for the supply draft must be equipped from the back of the oven. It should rise 1.5 m from the level of the heater. The hood is installed under the floor, at a distance of approximately 30 cm. A fan is mounted in the exhaust hole. All incoming air will be heated absolutely evenly. First, the air masses are heated from the furnace and rise upward. After cooling down, they rush down and go outside. To keep warm for longer for a long time, you need to make the exhaust hole as low as possible.

Other popular options

1. If there is no other possibility, you can make an air inlet anywhere on the wall near the stove, and an outlet also in a free location, but in the opposite wall. To speed up air circulation, you can install a fan for the outlet.
2. The location of the inlet and outlet openings is on one wall opposite the stove. The air will enter through something installed at a height of 30 cm from the floor, and exit through something installed 30 cm from the ceiling. This scheme is perfect for baths with only one external wall.
3. The inlet opening is placed at a distance of 30 cm from the floor behind the stove, and the outlet is also at a height of 30 cm, but on the opposite side.
4. Option for baths with a continuous cycle. The heater vent is used as an exhaust hood, so there is a need to equip only one hole for air flow. It should be placed opposite the fryer at its level.

One of the main elements of ventilation for the bathhouse there is a chimney. Warm air escapes better through the pipe than through ventilation holes. To freshen the air as quickly as possible, you need to open the chimney along with the equipped openings.

The temperature in the bathhouse should not be allowed to drop lower than outside. In this case, there is a risk of smoke in the room in which the stove is located, usually a steam room. The cooled air forms a plug; it can be released by opening all the dampers on the ventilation openings and connecting the chimney. Sometimes you have to use a special opening to dispose of ash.

Video about how to make ventilation in a bathhouse with your own hands.

DIY sauna steam room ventilation

It is advisable to install a stove in the steam room. It provides the main ventilation system. Air from the steam room passes through the vent, so its circulation is already well ensured. The blower is used instead of a special exhaust device. For maximum air flow the oven must be installed at a level lower than the finished floor. To start ventilation you only have to open it a little. front door or a window. Disadvantage this method ventilation is to maintain it only while the stove is burning. If the device is inoperative, the hood is completely suspended.

In addition to the heater, ventilation in the bathhouse is maintained additionally equipped with holes(see photo below). They must be closed with gates with bars. To regulate the air exchange in the steam room, simply open or close the shutters. After each parka, the room needs to be ventilated, so you should open the holes for a while. If this is not done, the air will remain humid, heavy, and there is also a risk of carbon monoxide poisoning due to its high content.

When the steam room is just heating up, the stove is heating up, you need to make sure that the holes are tightly closed. When the room is warm enough, they can be opened. To avoid the formation of reverse draft, it is necessary to ensure that the area of ​​the exhaust openings exceeds the supply openings during the construction stage. Steam accumulates at the very top; to lower it, you can spray water in small quantities on the floor. To quickly release steam, you can also wave a broom or towel in different directions.

If the stove is not installed directly in the steam room, then another ventilation technique is used. Near heating device make an inlet hole at a height of 30 cm from the floor. An exhaust hood is made on the opposite wall, positioning it 30 cm down from the ceiling.

Sometimes the inlet is placed behind the stove at the bottom of the wall. The air coming from the street is warmed by the stove, so the room cools down moderately. On the wall opposite to the stove you need to form 2 openings. They will form one exhaust duct. The first opening is made at a distance of 1 m from the floor, and the second under the ceiling. The air is discharged through the hood to the roof.

When installing such ventilation, the steam room quickly warms up, while saving fuel. The occurrence of a musty smell in the room is prevented, since the subfloor is well dried.

Natural ventilation

To bring fresh air into the bathhouse, you need to make a small opening in the wall, located at a distance of about 50 cm from the stove. It is equipped with a retractable damper, which allows you to regulate the amount of incoming air. A position that is too high is not wise, as the hottest air rises to the ceiling. To make the most of the heat from the stove, you need to make a hole in the middle of the wall. If the hole is too low, the draft will be minimal. In order for it to be carried out correctly, it is necessary to install a ventilation pipe or purchase a fan.

Forced ventilation

To ensure that as much fresh air as possible enters the steam room, openings should be positioned diametrically to each other. If forced air outflow will be used, it is advisable to make the supply hole higher than the exhaust hole. If it is possible to construct a ventilation system in which the air flow comes from below, heats up from the stove, rises up, and then goes outside, then installing additional fans will not be necessary.

When using fans Both the supply and exhaust openings should not be located at the same level. The air flow can be closed, which will lead to a concentration of cooled air masses below, while it will be too hot at the top.

It is not advisable to place an exhaust opening in the ceiling. When the incoming air goes up, you will have to spend a lot of time sufficiently heating the room. Warm air quickly rises, mixing little with cold air, and quickly leaves the bathhouse. You can vent the air upward in the dressing room if the goal is to heat it from the steam room.

Section of openings for ventilation should be related to the total area of ​​the bathhouse or steam room separately. The holes should not be made too small. If ventilation is insufficient, it will take a long time for the air to be renewed, it may become too humid, and mustiness appear.

Ventilation diagram in the steam room of a Russian bath.

Ventilation in the washing room

As in the steam room, in washing bath There is also a large accumulation of moisture. To avoid constant damp air, which leads to the appearance of fungi and mold, it is necessary to ensure its timely removal to the outside. A lot of water often accumulates under the floor, so an asbestos pipe is often sufficient for good ventilation. It can be placed in a corner. One end of the pipe is placed under the finished floor, and the other ends on the roof; it must be equipped with a deflector.

The construction of moderate, controlled ventilation allows you to keep the bathhouse dry, maintain a moderate temperature, get rid of humidity, and constantly inhale renewed, fresh air. Ventilation regulates the direction and location of the air inlet and outlet, the removal of carbon monoxide, and provides savings on fuel for the furnace.

Ventilation in a bathhouse is not only comfort, but also an urgent necessity. It is needed both during and after bath procedures:

• In the process it is important so that no one gets burned. The danger of carbon monoxide poisoning always exists - this is the result of incomplete combustion of fuel. Therefore, ventilation is necessary for the safety of people in the bathhouse.
• Besides the air that is inhaled and exhaled becomes “waste”, and it must be removed and replaced with a new one with a higher proportion of oxygen.
• Adjust the temperature Monitoring the condition of people can also be done with the help of ventilation, especially when this needs to be done urgently.
• Any stove runs on oxygen (combustion is oxidation), so it also needs ventilation. And with the right device, you can also get fuel economy.
• And finally, drying after, on which the durability of the structure, especially its wooden parts, directly depends. Ventilation can be good prevention of fungi and rotting.

At the same time, bath ventilation is quite complex and varied in design. Of course, the question can be reduced to financial investments, but in reality you just need a good ventilation specialist who will find optimal solution in each specific case. We will look at all the capabilities and features of the device.

Ventilation system in the bathhouse: what could it be like?

Ventilation systems in baths are divided according to several parameters:

• forced or natural;
• exhaust, supply or supply and exhaust;
• local or general exchange.

Let us explain that forced differs from natural in the presence of fans that force air in or out; local differs from general in its local character, for example, a chimney above a stove - local ventilation, and outlets are part of the general exchange.

As for the supply, exhaust and their combinations, these are designations of what air is directed where: the exhaust drives exhaust air outside, the supply drives fresh air inside, and their combination creates a balanced air exchange inside the room.

These are general terms for any ventilation, but our task is to consider a bathhouse, which has its own specifics. We advise you to familiarize yourself with (8 types) along the way.

Useful video

Watch a short video as one of the options for organizing ventilation in a bathhouse:

Natural ventilation in the bath

It works on the principles of physics, which say that heating makes air lighter and causes it to rise. And an increase in the volume of cold air accelerates the movement of hot air. Knowing about this property, you don’t have to install any appliances at all, just ventilation holes, the location of which will make some of them supply air, and others exhaust.

There is also a stove in the bathhouse, and this is a very favorable circumstance for directing air circulation. If the natural ventilation inlet is located near the floor next to the ash pan, then the stove itself will draw in fresh air, without any fan. Raising the finished floor slightly above the hole under the firebox also improves traction.

The exhaust hole is usually made on the side opposite the wall with the supply hole, but this is not the only option.

Forced ventilation

If you install fans in the same holes, then you don’t have to worry about calmness or other weather conditions that have a bad effect on air circulation in the bathhouse.

In principle, there is no big difference between natural and forced ventilation in the design itself; it is just a matter of which holes the fans are in. Because you can’t install them everywhere, enhancing only the exhaust or only the inflow. But by creating a large difference between the inflow and outflow, we change the pressure in the room. This is easily detected by the way the door slams. The task is to create a balance between outflow and inflow, and the air during bath procedures should circulate slowly, without causing a draft. And when drying, a draft is only beneficial.

IMPORTANT! The direction in which the fan blows air depends on the location of its blades, so it is important to ensure that there is no exhaust fan and vice versa.

Ventilation device in the bath: principles of operation

Bathhouse ventilation can be divided into permanently functioning (roof, foundation, wall) and periodically functioning, during bathing procedures and stove operation. Both are parts of a single ventilation system, which is laid during construction.

The principle of operation of the ventilation system: displacing exhaust air with fresh air. In the most primitive case, two holes are enough for this, but in practice the directions of flows also matter, so the number of supply and exhaust openings can be increased, and they themselves are equipped with dampers, which are a means of controlling flows, their volumes and speed.

Regardless of the location, the supply air is always made lower than the exhaust. Sometimes air flow is provided through the blinds at the bottom of the door to the steam room. But there is one rule: Where the air comes from is where it must be given. If we take it from the premises, we need to return not to the street, but also to the premises. Otherwise it won't work.

Calculating the area of ​​ventilation windows is quite simple: we must proceed from the fact that each cubic meter of room volume requires a window with an area of ​​24 cm². Under no circumstances should the windows be made directly opposite each other at the same height.

1. When the bathhouse warms up, the vents in the foundation close and the dampers in the steam room move back.
2. During vaping, the windows open slightly as needed.
3. After completing the procedures, the bathhouse is completely ventilated.

There are also 10+ different schemes prepared to help you.

Ventilation in the bathhouse

Bastu-type ventilation, named after the convection Swedish baths, is becoming increasingly popular in Russian baths. It is simple to do and highly effective.

The air flow under the furnace is carried out using ventilation pipe from the street. In this case, you definitely need a damper to block it.

For air outflow, a box is installed, which starts 20-30 cm from the floor and goes outside. The location of the box is diagonal from the stove. The material is best stainless steel. The box must also overlap 100%.

So, it works as follows: if a certain volume enters a room, then the corresponding volume will be pushed out of there if there is an exit. A working furnace actively draws in cold air from the supply air duct. Part of it is used in combustion (and leaves through the chimney), and part rises upward, heating up along the way from the stove. Excess volume in parallel begins to escape through the box, which takes air from the floor. Therefore, fresh heated air ends up in the breathing zone, and exhaust air ends up below and leaves.

Video

Watch how Bastu is explained and done in these videos:

Bastu ventilation is “turned on” and “off” by manipulating the valves. At the same time, the furnace must work, because it is the heat pump responsible for air circulation. If the stove goes out, the ventilation in the bathhouse will not work.

Bastu ventilation is ideally used in a sauna, where you need to change the air 6-8 times per hour. But in a Russian bath, the conditions are somewhat different, and although basta can be performed in it, there are restrictions on its use.

Ventilation bastu in a Russian bath

A Russian bath is not too high a temperature and an abundance of steam. In such conditions Basta ventilation in a Russian bath should not be “turned on” while steaming.

But you can safely start it at the very beginning, at the stage of warming up the steam room. In this case, the heating time will increase, but it will be uniform. If you leave the valves open, the basta will dry out and overheat the steam room. You can try to “turn on” basta at the last stage soaring - the air will be light, hot, you can breathe freely. The perfect end to your vaping experience.

That's it in the Russian bathhouse also useful for drying after procedures- she copes with this perfectly and there will be no odors or mold with such drying.

Floor ventilation in the bathhouse

The floor in the bathhouse needs to be completely dry after the procedures. The first condition for this will be the organization of proper drainage, with a slope that will drain water into the sewer. Of course, there are several options for flooring.

For pouring (wet) floors, ventilation is especially important. Therefore, gaps between the boards, reaching a width of up to 1 cm, are needed not only for water drainage, but also for drying the boards. And the discovery of vents in the foundation, which we will discuss below, will help with this.

A dry floor does not have any gaps between the boards, because it is installed from tongue-and-groove boards. This means that the principle of its ventilation is somewhat different. You will have to dry from above using burst ventilation (this means opening all windows and doors) and the system provided in the bathhouse, for example, forced supply and exhaust.

Useful video

Look at what dampness can do to a dry floor, even if it is covered with yacht varnish:

The ventilation riser in the washing room will be discussed below, but it also affects floor ventilation.

And the floor is also well ventilated during operation of the stove, if (as already mentioned) you raise its level above the ash pit and leave small gaps between the boards in the floor itself.

Bathhouse foundation ventilation

Actually, it all starts with it, because it is installed when laying the foundation. To do this, cut pieces of asbestos-cement pipes are taken, filled with sand and laid in this form among the reinforcement, fastened with knitting wire between the rods at a height of 5 to 12 cm above the ground level. After stripping, the sand is removed.

There can be two such holes in total, placed on opposite sides of the base. However, in reality, it is necessary to take into account a number of different factors, on which both the number of holes and their diameter ultimately depend. By the way, the usual diameter is 11 cm.

Useful video

See what the lack of ventilation for the floor and foundation can lead to:

Before designing ventilation, the following are taken into account:

• distance of the bathhouse from the reservoir;
• location (high or low);
• surrounded by other buildings on all sides;
• wind rose of this area;
• bath area.

It is clear that if the bathhouse is in a low area or there are solid buildings around it, more holes must be made, even on all sides. You can also increase the diameter, but install a louvered grille or a damper.

CAREFULLY! Rodents can enter unprotected vents, so it is also recommended to tighten them with a metal mesh.

The plugged holes are usually left closed during procedures, but are opened for drying.

Ventilation of different rooms of the bath:

Due to differences in the temperature and humidity conditions of each of the bathhouses, ventilation in them is organized differently.

car washes

The washing compartment is the wettest, so it is recommended to equip it with a ventilation riser, which is located in the corner, under the floor. This is an asbestos-cement pipe, which is then brought to the roof and is equipped with a deflector on top. Ventilation in the sink occurs due to the pressure difference between the room and the end of the pipe above the roof; the air tends outward, taking with it excess moisture.

The reason why you have to take it to the roof is simple: if wet air immediately drive it out into the street, then the wall where this hole will be located will quickly deteriorate from the outside.

steam rooms

attic

Attic ventilation is a special song. This is done at the stage of roof installation.

1- ceiling 2- soffits 3- roof ridge

IMPORTANT! The opinion that a window in the gable is enough to ventilate an attic is incorrect. These windows will not replace supply and exhaust system in the roof.

Inlet openings are made under the roof canopy (between the roof sheathing and top part walls where the rafters rest on the power plate), and the exhaust walls rest on the ridge. There should be holes on the gables, but they are small and very high.

It is also important to take into account the ratio between the area of ​​the supply and exhaust openings on one side and the total area of ​​the attic. It is optimal that the first ones are 1/500 of the second. The ratio between the area of ​​the supply and exhaust is not 50 to 50; the exhaust should be 10-15% larger in area than the supply.

This system is suitable for those baths whose attic is cold. And there are also bathhouses with attics. There, ventilation is also done at a time when the roof is still open from the attic.

To ventilate the under-roof space (between the roofing material and the membrane), either natural or forced ventilation can be used. But for both to function, aerators and soffits are needed.

Aerators are installed either on the roof slope or on the ridge (these are the most effective). They serve for extraction. And the soffits are responsible for air flow. These are siding panels for covering roof overhangs, some of which must be perforated. The ratio of the area of ​​the ventilation holes to the ventilated area is the same as mentioned above 1/500.

IMPORTANT! The efficiency of aerators will be higher if you install only conventional or only ridge aerators.

Fans for the under-roof space are used as supply fans. Special attention paid to the wiring so that it does not cause a fire.

baths in the basement or ground floor of the house

Some owners country houses allocates a basement for a bathhouse or ground floor. A similar arrangement of a hot and humid room presents special requirements to ventilation, on which the durability of the whole house now rests.

Note that the redevelopment of a former residential or utility room also includes the redevelopment of ventilation. In general, this is more expensive than a bath included in the design of a house under construction.

One way or another, you need don't forget about ventilation gap between walls and insulation. This will protect against damage to the insulation by condensation. But the moisture in the air corridor must also go somewhere. Therefore, for basement and basement baths, professionally made supply and exhaust ventilation is recommended, and it is better not natural, but forced. Both are accompanied by the installation of a base deflector.

Location basement ventilation depends on the specifics of the project and will not be given here. It is also possible to install a special dehumidifier.

A good option would be to choose bastu ventilation - it is not so expensive, but very effective. The bastu device was discussed above.

shower

If there is a shower stall or open shower in the bathhouse, it is worth installing forced ventilation nearby, which will speed up the drying process.

If we assume that the air flow is ensured by the existing supply openings located in the washing room and other rooms, then you can install the fan only on the exhaust opening, which is located near the shower. ( The same way You can apply if the bathhouse has a bathroom.)

dressing room

The dressing room suffers from condensation due to the temperature difference between it and the hot rooms of the bathhouse. That's why ventilation is necessary in it just like everywhere else in the bathhouse. One vent is located at the bottom, the other at the top. The lower one is responsible for the inflow of air, the upper one for its outflow. Installation of forced ventilation is not prohibited. In addition, you can ventilate the dressing room using the door and (if there is) a window.

In contact with

To determine the value of ventilation in the bath you should know its purpose:

1. Rapid heating of the room, uniform distribution of heat. Savings in heating costs.
2. Constant air renewal while vaping. This is necessary for the comfort and health of vacationers.
3. Quick removal of moist air. Carrying out mandatory drying of the room.
4. Preservation of the building for a longer time. No fungus or mold appears. Objects do not deform or change color when exposed to moisture.

No or insufficient ventilation Unpleasant odors gradually accumulate in the room and the air becomes damp. There is no fresh air coming in, it becomes more difficult to breathe. There is a risk of poisoning from accumulated carbon monoxide. Without ventilation, gradually the entire warm air will go up, and cooling will accumulate below.

Proper ventilation system in baths

In saunas made of natural logs any cutting of holes to provide ventilation is considered unnecessary. The lower crowns of the walls are laid with holes installed, through which a moderate amount of fresh air passes. If you have a stove-heater in which the vent is also designed to vent air outside, you can limit yourself to its presence. Air is let in through an open door; a gap of 5-7 mm is sufficient.

Ventilation is designed for regular intake of fresh air into the bathhouse and outflow of cooled and humid air. For fresh air flow need to build vents. If they are not there, then you can use windows and doors. Extraction also occurs through special holes, a furnace ash can be used, great importance in the outflow of steam there is a chimney. To ensure complete control of air exchange, the openings are equipped with shutters, which can be adjusted to stop or resume the flow and exit of air.

There is a large list of ventilation systems:

1. For inlet and outlet openings located opposite each other, one level is used. In some cases, placing the inlet low can help retain heat longer. To activate air exchange, a fan is installed; an air duct or deflector can also be used. Holes cannot be positioned exactly at the same level. As a result of the rapid release of air, accumulations of cold air may form at the bottom and warm air in the rest of the bath.
2. Air flows directed by an operating ventilation device reduce the pressure inside the duct. The exhaust air is drawn out due to a decrease in pressure inside the bath. To raise the pressure again, fresh air is introduced.
3. The vents can be positioned in this way: the supply air vent is 30 cm from the floor, the outlet located opposite does not reach the ceiling 30 cm. Fresh air is immediately heated from the stove, rises, gradually leaving the room.

To ensure constant control over the speed and volume of incoming and outgoing air, dampers are created. It is advisable to make them retractable, opening them to the required distance. The length of the air duct is determined by the size of the bath, as well as the maximum volume of required incoming air.

When the room is just being heated with a hot stove, all openings should be covered. When the temperature becomes optimal for vaping, the valves are opened slightly and immediately adjusted so that the exchange of air does not change the temperature in the room. Both inlet and outlet openings should have a connector close to the same. To increase the flow of fresh air, you can slightly enlarge the outlet.

The supply connector should not be larger than the output connector. It leads to reverse thrust, which promotes the release of fresh air from the bathhouse, rather than its active circulation.

Ventilation in a Russian bath

IN classic bath, created according to the Russian model, no special holes are made, so air exchange should be done in a more natural way. Typically, conventional ventilation is used to provide a flow of fresh air. You can open the door leading to the street and the window opposite it. Sometimes used forced exhaust with the door open. To better get rid of accumulating dampness, you should promptly sweep away the leaves from the broom. Benches and other wooden objects that become very wet can be dried; sometimes, flaps of sheets are used. These procedures will not allow heavy steam to form and will remove unpleasant odors and decay products from the room.

After the bathhouse has been ventilated and dried, need to start steaming. To do this, pour water in small portions onto the stones. The prepared steam quickly rises up and remains there for a long time, so it may turn out that it is already very hot at the top, but still cool at the bottom. If there is a strong temperature difference, you can wait until the steam drops or use artificial methods lowering it.

It is enough to work with brooms to create movement in the steam room, the air will immediately mix. Swings of a towel or broom should be carried out closer to the ceiling.

You can make a fan: on wooden handle there is a loop of of stainless steel, on which the fabric is stretched. Horizontal or vertical movements are made by this device to move warm and cold air. Sometimes people start using it when making steam. To do this, one person pours water on the stones, and the second works with a fan.

In the steam room

In classic bath ventilation schemes it is assumed air flow in the steam room from below. The hole is usually located below half a meter from the floor. The hood can be placed close to the ceiling by making a hole on the opposite wall. Regulation of the level of humidity and heat of the air is carried out by extending or closing the valves.

The best option, especially for a small steam room, is to create an inlet opening next to the stove. This is necessary to instantly warm up the incoming fresh air. This arrangement will prevent the formation of strong drafts and helps to avoid large temperature differences in different parts of the steam room. Heat from the steam room can not only be removed outside, but also transferred to other rooms for high-quality heating.

Proper ventilation works by bringing fresh air under the box. Air masses leave the device through the upper opening. The steam room warms up quite evenly until the warm air reaches the bottom of the box. Hot air will gradually displace colder air, providing warming before leaving the room. The steam room heats up and dries out at the same time.

In the waiting room of the bath

The ventilation channel is directly connected to the duct, the diameter of which usually exceeds the chimney by no more than 20%. With these parameters, oxygen fills the room rather than leaving it. There is no need for air flow from the underground.

The walls of the stove, if there is one in the dressing room, needs to be placed close to the floor. The shelves are not necessarily placed in a strictly horizontal position. They are able to slow down the rise of heat to the ceiling. To better absorb warm air, it is better to equip the stove with several chimneys.

Sometimes, when heating a bathhouse, a large amount of smoke is formed and retained in the room. This means that the air inside the dressing room is colder than outside. environment. Cold air is somewhat more massive than warm air, so it often creates a shell in chimneys. In order to push out this air, you need to equip an additional door for burning ash.

Forced ventilation

Ventilation in the bathhouse is carried out using electronic systems, if it is impossible to ensure good air circulation by natural means. Fans can be installed on both the supply and exhaust vents. They accelerate the movement of air masses, providing the room with fresh air and quickly removing humid air.

Exhaust ventilation

The design of this ventilation always includes exhaust fan. For air circulation, a supply air supply must be constructed. Sometimes cracks in the walls are used to bring in fresh air, or windows or doors are opened slightly. Dignity exhaust ventilation is a decrease in pressure in the bath. The action must be compensated by a constant flow of air from outside.

Ventilation with powerful exhaust perfectly removes harmful gases and moist air with an unpleasant odor. You can build such a ventilation system not only in the steam room, but also in showers, washrooms, areas with a swimming pool or in bathrooms. Typically, a basic exhaust ventilation system kit includes a fan and a duct. If the device is too noisy, you can use a silencer.

Forced ventilation

Installed according to the exhaust principle, however the fan must be placed on the inlet. When the work is activated supply system ventilation, there is an increase in pressure in the room, which must be compensated in a timely manner by the release of air through the hood or gaps in the walls, floor, ceiling, vents, and doors.

Supply fans are not considered convenient if they operate at cold temperature. In winter, they supply ice-cold air, which must be additionally heated by pre-installed air heaters. If it is necessary to purify a large amount of incoming air, filters can be used.

Supply and exhaust ventilation

Combination of artificial inflow and exhaust air is often equipped with recuperators, silencers, and filters. Additional devices provide comfort while in the bathhouse, while at the same time there is constant, good air circulation. In order not to worry about ventilation, you can equip it with an automatic control unit.

Creation of supply and exhaust design artificial ventilation often causes difficulties. It is necessary to calculate the optimal air exchange in all rooms of the bathhouse at the design stage. The amount of air coming out must match the amount of air coming in. Sometimes air flows are not deliberately balanced. To prevent the spread of excessive humidity or unpleasant odors from a certain room, the pressure in it is artificially reduced. To do this, a hood is installed with greater intensity than in other rooms.

When arranging ventilation in the bathhouse, you should take care not only of the steam room, but also of others important rooms. To save on heating costs, you can use the warm air generated in the steam room, venting it through other rooms rather than outside. By adapting the ventilation system to specific needs, you can make the most successful option.

Bath procedures are healthy and relaxing. However, without good air ventilation in the steam room, staying in it can result in problems. In addition, if wooden shelves and walls are not regularly dried, they will not last long.

Wood will inevitably begin to deteriorate due to the abundance of moisture. However, making effective ventilation in a bathhouse with your own hands is not so difficult. There are several schemes for its arrangement in this room. You can always choose the most best option for independent implementation.

Main types of ventilation for baths

The classic Russian bathhouse is small room. Not all types of ventilation can be implemented in it. Often in complex systems In this case there is no need for air exchange. And most of the owners country cottages and those who build a steam room with their own hands prefer to look for the simplest solutions.

All variations of ventilation systems are divided into:

• natural;
• forced (supply, exhaust and combined).

Air distribution in a steam room with proper ventilation

In the first case, ventilation is arranged so that air exchange processes in the room occur due to natural draft and convection. In the second, the air is forced to move around the room using a fan installed in the exhaust, supply, or both directions at once.

To organize ventilation in the bathhouse, you can use all these methods. However, the natural option is more preferable. It is cheap, energy independent and does not require supervision of electrical equipment. But in some cases it is not enough.

Air flow during natural ventilation

For example, it was decided to build a steam room in the house itself, and not as a separate building on the street. Then only exhaust or supply ventilation can help. It is not recommended to install a combined supply and exhaust analogue with a recuperator or electric heater in a bathhouse due to high cost and installation difficulties. And in a steam room, this option with additional air heating is simply not needed.

Air circulation in the bath depending on the location of the stove

Ventilation schemes for steam rooms and baths

It doesn’t matter whether there is a fan in the air duct or not. Ventilation in a bathhouse is always done so that there are two ventilation ducts (windows or openings to the street). One input goes to the inflow, and the second output goes to the exhaust. Moreover, ideally they should be located on opposite walls and have doors, valves or latches to adjust the draft.

On the one hand, proper ventilation in the steam room should ensure a constant flow of oxygen inside, and on the other hand, it should not draw heat out too quickly. If the air exchange is too intense, then you won’t have enough firewood for such a bathhouse. All heated air will immediately escape outside.

Temperature distribution in a steam room with ventilation

The wood stove and electric heater continuously burn oxygen during operation. And the ventilation in the bathhouse must also continuously replace it, so that those who come to take a steam bath do not feel discomfort. That is why bath ventilation windows must have valves that will allow you to regulate the volume of air supply and exhaust.

The most effective schemes placement of ventilation windows in the bathhouse are considered (direction “inflow” - “exhaust”):

1. On the wall near the stove - on the opposite wall above the shelf.
2. On the wall near the stove - through the cracks in the floor and further into the vent of the dressing room.
3. On the wall under the shelf - into the chimney.
4. Through an outlet in the foundation and cracks in the floor - on the wall under the ceiling.

Types of hoods

In the first case, cold air heats up near the stove and goes up to the opposite wall, where the shelves are located. When implementing the second option for bath ventilation, the heated air masses first rise to the ceiling, and then, due to draft, they lower and are pulled out through the cracks between the floor boards.

In the third scheme, a small pocket with standing hot air is created above the shelf. But such ventilation still draws oxygen into the steam bath in sufficient quantities.

The fourth option involves the presence of vents in the underground. It is more difficult to perform it in an already built bathhouse with your own hands. In the flooded concrete foundation Punching holes for ventilation is a problematic task. But with it, the floor boards below the ground will always dry quickly after bath procedures and will last longer.

Methods for arranging ventilation in the bathhouse

The entrance window should be located from the floor at a height of 20–40 cm, and the exit window should be 15–20 cm below the ceiling. It is best if both are the same in size. And both should have blinds or a shutter.

Exhaust and forced ventilation usually done with duct fan, which is mounted directly into the air duct. You should choose it for a bath with increased protection from steam and high temperature. All mechanical and electrical components of this fan must have improved waterproofing. IP protection here should be set to at least “54”.

You can always ventilate a steam room by simply opening the doors and windows. You don't even need vents for this. So the internal hot air is literally replaced by cold external air in just a couple of minutes.

Circulation of hot air in the steam room

However proper ventilation It’s hard to tell through open doors. In this case, all the steam ends up in the dressing room, where it instantly turns into condensation on the walls and interior items. TO this species“bulk” ventilation should be used only in extreme situations.

Important nuances of do-it-yourself sauna ventilation

If everything is done correctly, then you need to plan ventilation in the bathhouse at the design stage. In already finished building Making ventilation holes even in wood is more difficult than at the same time as laying the frame. The area of ​​the vent should be about 200–300 square meters. cm. This is more than enough for most small-sized pairs.

Ventilation diagram in the bathhouse

Another important point- dowels in the walls, fastening logs together. If they are metal, then when creating vents it is important not to run into these rods.

It is better to generally move the ventilation holes away from them as far as possible to the side. It’s still not possible to completely get rid of moisture, so the metal fasteners should be kept away from it.

Steam room plan with ventilation

It is not recommended to place vents on one wall. In this case, the ventilation will be such that the air flow will immediately go from bottom to top, without circulating through the steam room. The holes should be made in height no more than the cross-section of the log (timber). It is easier to select the required opening area by increasing its length. You cannot build an vent between two logs. This is more difficult to perform and can lead to damage when the frame settles.

Forced ventilation in the bathhouse

The exits of the steam room ventilation air ducts from the external wall must be protected from precipitation. If water gets inside the holes, it will end up inside wooden walls. And for a long time after this, the wood is unlikely to stand unrotten.

When making ventilation in a Russian wooden bathhouse, the outlet should be led into its wall, and not into the ceiling. The steam from the bath should go straight out into the street. He has nothing to do in the attic. There are wooden rafters that excess moisture contraindicated.