Overlap - horizontal Basic structure, which is created between two vertical rooms, dividing them by height. Wherein top part the ceiling usually acts as a floor for the upper room, and Bottom part ceilings - as a ceiling for the lower room.

Conventionally, floors can be divided into:

• Basement - a structure separating the ground and first floors.
• Interfloor - a structure located between two floors.
• Attic - separates the floor from the attic space.
• Attics - separates the floor from the attic.

The ceiling can be a horizontally located structure made of such building materials, such as wood, metal, concrete, reinforced concrete, and meeting certain engineering and construction requirements. Such requirements usually include the ability of the floor to withstand permanent and temporary loads, i.e. have increased strength, and also have sound, heat and waterproofing functions.

Types of floors and their technological features

Depending on the material used, floors are divided into:

• Wooden
• Reinforced concrete

The above types of floors can be used depending on their purposes and design features buildings.

Wooden floors

Installation of beams
Beam or timber floors are often used in the construction of timber or traditional single-family homes. In this case, the floor beams must be made of hardwood or softwood.

The essence of wooden floors is simple. Taken wooden beams or laminated wood with the following dimensions:

• height 150-300 mm;
• width 100-250 mm,

cut the ends at an angle of 60-80°, treat them with an antiseptic and tar them. After this, the ends of the beams are wrapped in roofing felt and placed in niches with a depth of 150 mm, leaving a gap of 30-50 mm between the wall and the beam. The resulting gap is filled with mineral wool.

It should be remembered that the beams are installed on load-bearing walls structures at a distance of 600 mm and up to 1.5 m from each other.

During installation, the beams are installed starting from the outer ones, having first retreated at least 50 mm from the walls of the structure. Then intermediate beams are evenly installed in the remaining space.

After distributing all the beams over the surface, it is necessary to check that they are horizontal. Tarred boards are usually used for leveling. required thicknesses. It must be remembered when leveling that all beams in the horizontal plane must be at the same level.

To create additional rigidity for the future floor, beams can be strengthened using special steel anchors, nails and steel plates. Similar in brick houses This is done extremely rarely, so we won’t focus on this. But in wooden houses The beams are fastened using special connecting brackets.

After preparing the base of the floor, you can proceed to covering it.

Installation of wooden floors
Planed boards (25-45 mm thick), OSB panels or thick plywood are usually used as flooring for wooden floors.

Installation proceeds as follows. First, cranial bars with a cross-section of 50x50 mm are attached to the beams, on which a subfloor is laid*. Layers of steam and thermal insulation are laid successively on top of the subfloor, and then the finished floor*. This method is used when installing a basement floor.

Installation interfloor ceilings happens a little differently. Skull bars are attached, to which a layer of vapor barrier is attached below, and then ceiling material for the lower floor. Next, with inside cranial bars, between the beams, are laid noisily and thermal insulation material. Such a material can be mineral wool or expanded clay.

After this, another layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of the beams, and on top of it either planed boards, OSB boards or thick plywood.

In rare cases, when the distance between the beams is large, then before laying boards or slabs, logs are first laid perpendicular to the beams, placing them closer to each other than the beams.

The installation of attic and attic floors is approximately the same as the installation of interfloor floors. In all three cases, the thickness of the beam must be at least 1/24 of the length of the beam itself.

The floor surface resulting from the installation of a wooden floor, depending on the flooring material, is covered with a finishing coating*. If planed boards were used as the material, then the best option would be to cover them with paints and varnishes, rather than lay anything on top of them.

Advantages
The advantages of wooden flooring are:

• The weight of a wooden floor is significantly lower than that of reinforced concrete, which reduces the load on the walls and foundation of the building structure.
• Comparative simplicity and speed of installation.
• You can do the installation of a wooden floor yourself.
• The low cost of such a floor compared to monolithic or reinforced concrete.

Flaws
There are disadvantages of wooden floors. These include:

• Easy flammability of the material.
• Regular treatment of wood floors with fire retardant impregnations and paints.
• The instability of wooden floors.
• Wood needs air circulation.
• Fragility.

• Make wooden floors where you need them, not where you want them.
• All wooden ceiling elements must be located away from smoke ventilation ducts at a distance of at least 250 mm.
• All wood flooring must be treated with fire and bioprotective agents.
• Beams in places of contact with brick or concrete must be treated with protective compounds and wrapped with roofing felt.
• Do not make the distance between beams more than 1000 mm.
• Do not exceed the width between beam supports by more than 6 m.

Reinforced concrete floors

Reinforced concrete floors - floors with reliability, durability, as well as good strength and fire resistance. Probably the most significant disadvantage of this type of flooring is its heavy weight.

Reinforced concrete floors can be divided into monolithic reinforced concrete and prefabricated reinforced concrete slabs.

Monolithic reinforced concrete floors

Monolithic reinforced concrete floors are floors in which a reinforced frame filled with concrete mixture is used as a base.

Floor reinforcement
Reinforcement of interfloor ceilings begins with the reinforcement being welded to the ends of reinforcement or rolled wire with a diameter of at least 10 mm released from the reinforcement belt. Of course, it is better to immediately calculate and release the ends of the reinforcement with a diameter of 14 mm or more. In this case, the ends of the reinforcement are released so that the subsequently welded reinforcement along the entire surface forms a mesh with cells of 200x200 mm.

The welded reinforcement is tied or welded together at the joints. The end result should be a mesh.

The diameter of the reinforcement used is calculated based on the design loads. For these purposes, there are special tables from which you can calculate what kind of reinforcement needs to be used for floors with certain parameters. However, from personal experience I’ll say, it’s better to play it safe and take reinforcement with a larger diameter than necessary. After all, all currently existing tables and building codes are interpreted based on the material, the quality of which is equal to the quality Soviet Union. But everyone should understand that the quality of current materials is far from ideal.

As my grandfather used to say: " It’s better to play it safe and sleep well than to save money and sleep poorly."

So, when pouring a floor with a slab thickness of up to 150 mm, it is recommended to use reinforcement with a diameter of at least 14 mm, and with a mesh cell size of no more than 200x200 mm. If the span width is more than 4.5 m, then it is better to take reinforcement with a diameter of 20 mm or more, and leave the cells the same.

Another important point. For reinforcement of interfloor ceilings, it is advisable to use solid reinforcement bars. If the spans are large, then it is better to weld the reinforcement together.

After the reinforcement has been completed, you can begin installing the formwork.

Installation of formwork for slabs
Correct installation Formwork is the key to high-quality flooring.

For formwork work, you can use boards or panels made of boards, OSB boards or metal sheets. It is better to wrap boards, boards or OSB boards in polyethylene and attach it with a stapler, and metal sheets can be lubricated with oil or waste. This will further ensure easy separation of the formwork from the concrete, and will prevent the material from deteriorating from moisture.

We attach the prepared formwork or formwork material using wire to reinforcing mesh. It is recommended to install formwork on the entire surface of the poured floor.

At this stage, it is worth remembering that the formwork to be attached must be suspended 30-50 mm below the reinforcement frame. For these purposes, special clamps or brick fragments of the same size are installed between the formwork and the reinforcement at a distance of 1-1.2 m. These clamps must be installed precisely at the intersections of the reinforcing bars.

Having attached the entire formwork and thus installed the clamps, we check that the wire is tightened well, without allowing the formwork to sag. To be on the safe side, the installed formwork can be additionally supported from below with spacers. After these steps, you can proceed directly to concreting the floor.

Concreting the floor
To fill the floor with concrete mixture, you must first calculate the thickness of the future floor. According to the documentation, the thickness of the slab is calculated based on the span, and is taken in a ratio of 1:30. For example, for a span width of 6 m, the thickness of the floor will be 200 mm.

The thickness of the ceiling can be determined by measuring the required 200 mm from the formwork upwards, then using a water level to make markings along the perimeter of the walls, and then highlighting it using beating and blueing.

Having decided on the thickness and made the necessary markings, you can begin concreting. In this case, the entire process must be completed in one go. If it is not possible to concrete in one go, then lay metal grid made of wire with a diameter of 2-3 mm with a cell of 10x20 or 20x20 mm. However, this is an extreme case.

When laying concrete, it needs to be vibrated very well so that the concrete fills all the voids and lays down as tightly as possible. The quality of the concrete floor will depend on this.

For vibration, you can use a stick in the form of a shovel handle, or, if possible, special vibrators. To level concrete, it is better to use a long rule or a smooth, polished beam.

Having poured the entire surface of the ceiling in this way, we leave it for 28 days until it completely hardens and acquires the necessary concrete strength. You can, of course, remove the formwork earlier, it depends on the ambient temperature.

After this time, we remove the formwork by first removing the supports, and then, cutting the wire, remove the formwork panels. The resulting irregularities on the lower part of the ceiling are eliminated using a pick.

Advantages
The advantages of a monolithic reinforced concrete floor are:

• Possibility to make a ceiling various forms and sizes.
• These ceilings have no deflections, or in rare cases they are minimal and invisible to the eye.

Flaws
There are disadvantages of monolithic reinforced concrete floors. These include:

• The complexity of the process.
• Necessary care of the floor while the concrete acquires the required design strength.
• A minimum of three people are required for pouring.
• Special equipment is required, and possibly mechanisms.
• High cost of work relative to wooden floors.
• The need to buy ready-made concrete mix, or prepare it yourself.

• For reinforcement, use reinforcement that is not of the diameter that is recommended to you, but one or two sizes thicker.
• For tying reinforcement, it is better to use special tying wire.
• It is better to use knocked down forms as formwork. wooden boards from 25 mm thick, or metal sheets, which are supported from below by boards for more reliable fastening.
• Wooden formwork parts can be packed in plastic film, and metal ones - lubricate them with oil or polish. This will prevent damage to the building material, and it will be easier to separate the formwork from the floor mortar.
• It is better to install the formwork on the entire surface to be poured at once.
• It is recommended to fill the ceiling in one go.
• IN hot weather the ceiling must be watered (not flooded) to avoid cracking, and in winter time- such a ceiling requires heating, and in concrete mortar It is better to add special antifreeze additives.

Precast concrete slabs

Prefabricated reinforced concrete slabs are perhaps the most common building material used for flooring. These plates have different sizes and consist of a reinforcement frame filled with concrete on top. In most cases, these slabs are hollow.

The essence of installing floors made of reinforced concrete slabs comes down to several points:

• Take measurements of the surface of the future floor (length and width).
• Find optimal solution according to the size of the slabs, their location and quantity.
• Find a company for the production, delivery and installation of slabs.
• Pay for the delivered material and installation of the product.

That's all that is needed to install a floor made of factory reinforced concrete slabs.

Advantages
Advantages of precast concrete slabs:

• High load-bearing capacity of slabs, which can be subjected to design loads immediately after installation.
• These floors have high load-bearing capacity.
• No deflections.
• High speed of installation work.

Flaws
Disadvantages of precast concrete floors:

• The need for a monolithic belt in places where the slabs rest on the walls.
• Impossibility of installation on your own.
• Availability of qualified installers.
• Availability of special equipment for delivery and installation of slabs.
• High cost of slabs.
• Cash costs for the slabs themselves, their delivery and installation.

• When making floors from factory reinforced concrete slabs, consult with specialists.
• Lay floor slabs only on a pre-created reinforced belt.
• Do not lay reinforced concrete floor slabs on walls less than 200 mm thick.
• If you decide to use precast concrete slabs for flooring, find and contact a company with knowledgeable specialists.

Summing up

Each type of flooring is good for certain structures. During the review, it turned out that wooden floors are the cheapest and least labor-intensive to install. However, this type of flooring can not be used in all types of structures, but only in wooden buildings and traditional private houses. Wooden floors can be used for any of four types of floors - basement, interfloor, attic and attic.

Monolithic reinforced concrete floors can be used in the construction of buildings of almost any design, except for wooden structures. Such floors are more expensive than wooden floors and require certain material and physical costs. However, they are more durable and have more advantages compared to wooden floors. Depending on the type of bulk fillers in the concrete mixture, this floor can be used for all types of floors.

Prefabricated reinforced concrete slabs are the simplest, but most expensive type of flooring, which also has restrictions on installation on certain types of structures (wooden, with a wall thickness of less than 200 mm). They are installed mainly as a floor between the 0th and 1st floors, as well as between the 1st and 2nd floors.

* Subfloor - a horizontally flat plane that serves as the basis for the finishing coating, and made of boards, chipboard, OSB or thick plywood.
* Finish floor - finishing coat flooring such as tiles, parquet, laminate, linoleum, etc.

This article will talk about typical mistakes allowed under construction of brick walls.

It's no secret that the quality of others country houses, to put it mildly, leaves much to be desired. Through negligence or ignorance, builders make unacceptable mistakes, which sometimes lead to disastrous consequences. Moreover, the denial of norms and rules is becoming almost unsystematic.

In such conditions, customers have a hard time. To any question they receive a “comprehensive” answer something like this: “We have always done it this way, and no one has complained.” It is difficult for a person whose occupation is far from construction to defend his point of view, find convincing arguments and convict hacks of poor quality work. As a result, the house is built, but it is uncomfortable or completely unsafe to live in. Money wasted, materials wasted, and time wasted.

You can, of course, give advice from the very beginning to keep an eye on the builders, constantly monitor the progress of work, and invite independent experts to resolve controversial situations. But not all customers have the opportunity to regularly visit their country property. In addition, many errors can only be detected by a specialist. The best option— organize independent technical supervision of the construction process. This type of service is offered by specialized companies with the appropriate license.

IN last years low quality brickwork has become a mass phenomenon. The use of substandard solution, non-compliance with technological standards and other gross violations lead to catastrophic consequences. The walls are literally bursting at the seams, the cladding is peeling off, and there is a threat to the health and life of the inhabitants of the house. In such cases, there is only one way out: partial (in combination with repairs and strengthening) or complete demolition of the defective structure. Meanwhile, even safe but crooked masonry can create many problems. Curved surfaces are very difficult to finish - applying plaster, facing with stone, etc.

Errors in design and construction often lead to external walls getting wet and freezing. The result is high heat loss, dampness, mold and slow but sure destruction of the brick. There can be no talk of any comfortable and serene living in such a house. And correcting such, so to speak, shortcomings requires enormous financial, labor and time costs. I'm not even talking about the moral damage caused to the owners.

	Laying according to the “slip-and-drop” principle. The brickwork was made in violation of technological standards. The bricks are laid at random. The seams are uneven, in some places their thickness reaches 30 mm, while the norm is no more than 15 mm. At the same time, the vertical seams were completely left without mortar. What kind of energy saving can we talk about if there are gaping cracks in the wall!
	Obliquely. And here the builders, without further ado, laid out the wall along an inclined line. The quality of work does not stand up to criticism. But the unfortunate masons did not have to ledge the wall under the inclined rafters pitched roof. But this created an emergency situation: the inclined section could fall out at any moment
	Wall "shrapnel". This wall is a victim of unscrupulous manufacturers. This is what happens to bricks that contain too much lime. In wet weather, the lime was “shot off”. The process is extended over time and it is not known when it will end. You can stop the “shooting” by finishing it. But do not forget that plastering is a “wet” process.
	The wall is covered in frost. Freezing of the walls of this respectable mansion occurred for two reasons: due to insufficient thickness and improper combination of hollow and facing bricks. If the problem is not corrected soon, the house will face big troubles: destruction of the cladding, dampness, mold, discomfort, heat loss
	Insidious condensation. This is what happens as a result of improper construction of a three-layer wall. The builders forgot to leave ventilation gap between the cladding and the insulation. And besides, we saved on thermal insulation. Condensation had accumulated on the inside of the facing brick and leaked out. In winter, the walls will freeze, which will lead to the destruction of the brick.
	Crooked paths. Uneven seams on the brick cladding spoil the entire appearance of the facade. Of course, this will not cause the walls to fall apart. However, it is easy to understand the disappointment of the owners, who spent a lot of money on expensive home decoration and received a very mediocre result. In Soviet times, experienced builders called such seams between bricks “advance pay”
	Natural "ventilation". And here the builders went ahead and filled the gap between the window and the ceiling with hollow bricks. Everything would have been fine, but they placed the brick on a spoon - they saved on the material (they saved two whole bricks). And at the same time they provided the room with constant ventilation. Even if the holes are then sealed with mortar, this section of the wall will freeze (the thickness is only 65 mm)
	"Infernal Portal". Above this doorway It’s time to write: “Abandon hope, all who enter here.” Trying to “correct” the structure, the builders actually deprived the reinforced concrete lintel of its support point. Those measly 5 cm walls (the norm is 15-25 cm), on which the element now rests on one side, will soon collapse, unable to withstand the pressure of reinforced concrete
	Well, who builds something like that?! Water won't have to look for a hole in this basement wall. The brickwork is replete with holes. Moreover, the builders not only violated the current norm (it is prohibited to use hollow-core bricks when constructing a basement). but also went against common sense. They laid the bricks as if they deliberately wanted to show off the voids
	Escaping beauty. Another example of the misuse of hollow core bricks. When decorating the platbands, we used products that were not intended for cladding facades. In addition, the voids “look out” onto the street. The polyurethane foam itself needs protection from rain, snow and sun. But the builders didn’t bother to fill the bricks with mortar
	All wrong. This steel lintel was installed incorrectly from the very beginning. Main mistake- insufficient support width. Support units should include concrete pads that would ensure uniform load distribution and prevent local destruction of the brick. In addition, steel lintels need insulation (with the same brick)
	Zigzag of failure. Such serious cracks in brick cladding occur for various reasons. Most likely, the deformations are caused by movements of the foundation, built without taking into account the hydrogeology of the site. It is also possible that during the construction of double-layer walls, the correct relationship between the foam concrete base and the brick cladding was not ensured

Foam concrete has recently been in high demand among developers. They build from it residential buildings different number of storeys, outbuildings, garages. The material is durable, environmentally friendly, light weight, warm and easy to process. However, during the operation of a foam block house, one unpleasant defect may appear - cracks in the walls. The purpose of this article is to familiarize readers with the causes of cracks in foam concrete walls and ways to eliminate the problem.

Causes of cracks

If a crack appears in a wall made of foam blocks, it is necessary to find out the cause of its occurrence. Thus, in most cases, it is possible to prevent its further spread. The wall cracks for the following reasons:

1. Mistakes during foundation construction. Many inexperienced builders naively believe that lightweight foam concrete does not require the construction of a powerful foundation. In fact, the service life of the entire structure depends on the quality of the foundation. It is necessary to ensure that the foundation is laid to the depth of soil freezing, and its width is slightly greater than the width of the foam blocks. In addition, a sand cushion with a layer of 8–10 cm should be laid under the foundation.
2. The block laying technology has been disrupted. For this purpose, instead of glue, I used cement mortar. The emerging cold bridges could well provoke the appearance of cracks due to temperature differences.
3. Foam concrete blocks were used wet. As they dry, the material shrinks, which contributes to the appearance of cracks. And if wet blocks were laid on the eve of frost, then the wet material will literally be torn when freezing.
4. Cracked material may indicate that reinforcement for every 4th row of blocks was not used during the laying process.
5. If the height of the house exceeds 1 floor, it is necessary before installation interfloor covering mount on walls reinforced concrete belt. If such a belt was not erected, then the walls crack, possibly due to uneven stress on their various parts.
6. The foundation is built under the external and internal walls of the house. If the depth of its occurrence under the internal walls is less than under the external ones, then a gap can easily appear.
7. It is necessary to use material with the same density for laying walls. That is, you need to purchase it in one place and one brand. It is undesirable to use foam blocks for one masonry different manufacturers or use composite materials.

Attention! If vertical cracks appear predominantly in the middle of the wall, then a weak foundation is most likely to blame. In this case, it is necessary to strengthen it, and only then begin to eliminate the cracks.

In any case, if a foam concrete wall is cracked, you can restore the integrity of the structure even on your own. Below we will outline how to repair cracks in a foam block house.

Classification of cracks in foam concrete walls

• Mechanical cracks. They differ from shrinkage cracks in their greater width and length. In the vast majority of cases, they arise as a result of movement or destruction of the foundation. Less commonly, they can occur due to subsidence of the entire structure on shifting soils. To eliminate the cause of the crack, it is necessary to examine the foundation under the crack. To do this, it is advisable to expose it. If there are problems, the foundation is strengthened with a concrete pad.
• Shrinkage cracks. They are less dangerous. They are small in width. They are often horizontal. Sealing such cracks is not difficult.

Depending on the type of crack, they are sealed in different ways.

Methods for sealing cracks on foam concrete walls

First of all, you need to determine the reason why the wall is bursting. Then try to eliminate this reason. After this, you can begin to seal the cracks. Several methods are proposed for this.

Small cracks (shrinkage)

1. The place where the crack appears is cleaned of plaster, removed dust with water and primed.
2. The seams are being unstitched. They are expanded with a metal spatula to the required width. The length of the seam is also forced to increase.
3. We seal the seam with adhesive for foam concrete or a mixture consisting of foam concrete chips, water and cement.
4. A certain amount of time is allowed for the sealing mortar to harden.

Large mechanical cracks

To eliminate wide cracks, it is necessary to reinforce them, and seal the seams themselves with one of the following materials:

• Adhesive composition for foam concrete masonry.
• Cement mortar with silicate crumbs.
• Polyurethane foam.
• Epoxy adhesive.

Reinforcement is carried out over the entire area where the crack occurs with a distance of at least 40 cm from it on the sides. This can be done in several ways:

1. The reinforcement area is cleared of plaster. At equal distances on the sides of the seam, anchors are driven in, between which wire or mesh is stretched. You can use chain-link mesh or metal construction mesh. The mesh or wire is plastered on top. The thickness of the plaster layer is about 2–3 cm.
2. All plaster is removed from the crack area. A reinforcing mesh made of fiberglass is glued onto the crack. For this purpose it is used adhesive composition, used for laying foam concrete. The reinforcing mesh is sealed on top with the same solution. After it dries, the wall is puttied and plastered.

The appearance of cracks on the walls in a house built from foam blocks is a common occurrence. In the vast majority of cases, this phenomenon does not pose a danger, since it is a natural process of shrinkage and drying of building materials. It is recommended to adhere to certain building codes during the construction of houses to prevent the appearance of cracks. Well, if they occur, take measures to eliminate this unpleasant phenomenon using one of the methods described above.

When constructing residential buildings, concrete floor slabs are often used. These reinforced concrete products are used both for and in the construction of walls. They are made from high-quality concrete using a reinforced frame. The reliability and durability of buildings mainly depends on the quality of the materials used.

Floor slab structures

Overlapping with a monolithic slab

They are characterized by increased strength, which allows them to be used in places with an increased risk of sagging. Maximum protection against various deformations, but at the same time poor sound insulation. It is heavy, which is a significant disadvantage of this type during construction.

Hollow-core structures

The most popular, due to the lighter weight of the product. Thanks to the voids, these slabs have low thermal conductivity and good sound insulation. Manufacturing costs are significantly lower than in production monolithic slabs. They are often made of ribbed or cellular concrete.

Mainly manufactured in fixed sizes. And when designing a building, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of standard manufactured slabs. Depending on the requirements for future construction, the slabs are also classified by weight. Their average weight varies from 500 kg to 4 tons.

Use of concrete hollow core slabs during the construction of the foundation has been carried out for quite some time. But the installation of frost protection for floor slabs is not always thought through.

Damp and freezing walls are one of the most serious factors in the fragility of buildings.

The appearance of mold significantly affects the health of home occupants.

Wall freezing factors

1. Incorrect filling of joints between slabs. Poorly filled seams lead to a violation of the heat-insulating properties of the floors. Increases the chance of cracks forming. Through them the stove absorbs moisture.
2. Poor quality solution in the production of products. Choosing cheap or diluted solutions results in frequent moisture penetration. They usually have a very loose structure and cannot withstand pressure.
3. Errors in the design of the heating system. Poorly heated rooms are much more susceptible to frostbite on the walls. After moisture accumulates, they begin to freeze both on the outside and on the inside.
4. Subcooling of metal reinforcement elements and anchors. When various cracks appear, moisture begins to enter the metal components of hollow core slabs. As a result, corrosion may occur. The structure of such slabs softens and is more susceptible to decay from low temperatures.
5. Exhaust pipes collect condensate. With weak draft, moisture accumulates inside exhaust pipes, which leads to their freezing and reduced operating efficiency. At the same time, poor air circulation contributes to the accumulation of unnecessary moisture.
6. Small wall thickness. The thickness of the walls is not taken into account for their use in climatic conditions of this region.
7. Low thermal qualities of the materials used. When choosing materials, the balance is generally tipped towards strength, while often when installing insulation, it is simply not taken into account low level thermal insulation.
8. Insufficient cross ventilation. In poorly ventilated rooms, the outer walls freeze much more strongly, losing their heat-shielding properties. Unsatisfactory internal waterproofing between the wall and the insulation leads to freezing of the outer surface, and then to the destruction of the masonry.
9. Foundations with poor waterproofing, especially in houses without basements.
10. Violation of the vapor barrier structure in attic floors. Poorly executed thermal insulation transfers the performance of its functions to cement screed. Concrete surface collects moisture, accumulating condensation, and moisturizes the insulation. The heat-protective material begins to lose its original properties, which are significantly reduced, as a result of which the floor slabs begin to freeze. The insulation also increases its weight due to the accumulated liquid.
11. Often flooded basements.
12. The blind areas are made incorrectly or are missing.
13. Vertical waterproofing of basement walls was done incorrectly. Low air circulation leads to mold and condensation.
14. Bad in the production process. The frost resistance and water resistance of the structure of manufactured hollow core slabs depends on the quality of concrete compaction. A poorly compacted compound becomes too porous and the protection of the substrate is significantly reduced.
15. Installation of insufficient thickness of the finishing layer.

By saving on the finishing layer, you can end up with global destruction. When the air temperature fluctuates, the cladding gradually crumbles, reducing the wall's protection from getting wet and frost. And as a result, the strength of the entire structure is compromised, increasing the chances of emergency situations.

Prevention measures

To protect floor slabs from freezing, you need to take the following measures:

1. Carefully and airtightly fill the space between the plates.
2. High-quality installation of joint sealing must be waterproof (thanks to sealing mastics) and heat-protective (using insulating bags). With air protection, the distance between the plates is filled with sealing gaskets. The compression of the material of such gaskets should be at least 30-50%.
3. Monitor and check the operation of the building ventilation as often as possible.
4. Poor air circulation in rooms contributes to long-term drying of thermal insulation layers, accumulation of excess moisture and the appearance of mold. Should not be allowed to freeze heaving soil under the base of the foundation and the walls of the basement, do not allow the air temperature to reach ground floor drop below zero.
5. If the building does not have a basement, then it is necessary to install horizontal waterproofing between the ground and the surface of the basement.
6. Increase the layer of thermal insulation on the attic floors.
7. Maintain blind areas and drainage devices in good condition. Reducing the likelihood of freezing of hollow core slabs depends on the efficiency of their work.
8. During the first 3 years of operation of the building, it is necessary to clear the distance drainage systems at least twice a year, subsequently - once every three years.
9. Carry out drying on damp areas of the walls without worsening their condition.
10. Try to reduce humidity in rooms with poor ventilation. In any room, air humidity should not exceed 60%.

Fixes

Of course, it is always better to prevent a problem than to correct its consequences. But if measures were not applied on time and freezing nevertheless began, you need to start correcting the mistakes as quickly as possible. There are a number of different methods for correcting wall freezing problems.

Depending on the reasons and locations

The appearance of dampness and black spots in the area of ​​the top floors, as a rule, occurs if the installation of attic floor insulation is insufficient or poor quality. First of all, defects in the joints between the plates are eliminated, which reduces the appearance of moisture on interior walls. Typically, expanded clay is used as insulation in attic floors. According to the standards, for its productive action it must be at least 30 cm.

Be sure to check if there are any problems with the ventilation of the attic space. The lack of high-quality air exchange leads to the appearance of condensation and overcooling of the floor slabs. Check the roof for leaks.
Problems can also arise due to poor-quality sealing of joints in the walls and balcony slabs. Moisture can get into the joints between the wall and the slabs, causing damp spots. You should dry the walls as soon as possible and seal any moisture ingress.

If the gap is no more than 8 cm, then you can use polyurethane foam. To use it, you must first clean the edges of the crack from concrete crumbs. Polyethylene and silicone surfaces require additional treatment with acetone. The foam hardens within 24 hours. Then the excess foam must be cut off, using a utility knife, and the surface should be plastered, thereby closing the bridge of cold. If the gap at the joint is more than 8 cm, then you will have to use thick cement mortar.

Check the effectiveness of balcony drains. If the sealing of seam joints is broken, it is best to re-seal it using newer and quality materials. The strength of the building structure largely depends on the quality of filling of the joints. Proper sealing should be carried out only after thorough surface preparation:

• repair the external surfaces of wall panels;
• dry all wet and damp areas;
• Remove all damaged sealant before applying a new coat.

Under no circumstances should mastic be allowed to be applied to wet and untreated areas. It is best to carry out joint repairs in above-zero and dry weather.
If an imbalance in the thermal protection of walls is detected, insulation should be addressed by expanding them.

Wall insulation options

For example, using a layer of brickwork you can veneer outside walls. This can be done without special skills. For this you will need:

• bricks;
• level, tape measure and order, if the wall needs to be built high;
• sand-cement mortar in a ratio of 4:1 or adhesive mortar for masonry;
• drill with mixer;
• trowel and solution container;
• access to electricity.

You can also insulate the walls with plaster insulation on reinforcing mesh. To do this, use dowels to install the reinforcing mesh to the wall. The latter does not have to be metal. Plaster is applied between the wall and the mesh and on top. This can be a cement mortar or a ready-made dry mixture for wet rooms. They are more expensive, but last much longer than usual, since they have special additives in their composition.

Another of the highest quality methods is the installation of vapor barrier material and insulation from the inside concrete wall. Installation is carried out by installing a frame lined with tiled insulation. To make such a frame and fill the distance with insulation between the wall and finishing material, you can use various fasteners and hardware. These can be mounting brackets, plastic dowels, “fungi”, and glue, as in finished form, and in the form of a dry mixture that requires preparation. After that, be sure to finish it with plaster or any other finishing material.

Materials for frame and insulation:

• metal profiles or wooden slats;
• screws for metal or wood;
• sealant and polyurethane foam;
• vapor barrier membrane or aluminum foil on isofilm;
• sheet insulation, mineral or fiberglass wool;
• dry mixture for plaster.

Tools for installing the frame and insulation:

• grinder with circles for cutting metal or special scissors;
• drill with mixer attachment;
• screwdrivers or screwdriver;
• tape measure, level and pencil;
• spatulas and graters for grinding;
• solution container.

Between the frame and the wall you need to leave a space of about 50 mm and fill it with expanded clay. This material will perfectly absorb remaining moisture from the wall and stop the appearance of mold. Thus, the wall thickness increases by 150 mm. There are 80 mm foam blocks that successfully replace such frame structures. Installation is carried out on a regular cement-sand mortar (1:4).

On particularly cold and damp walls, you can install a system called “warm floor” or run it around the perimeter warm baseboard. This solution is best for corner rooms. When choosing a method for heating walls, the most suitable option is electric film or infrared flooring. You should not install it yourself. To heat the seam under the baseboard, you can use a heated floor, where a cable is used as a heating element.

Installation of a stationary wall electric heater will not completely solve the problem of poor-quality insulation between the slabs, but it can be installed independently.

For this you will need:

• drill or hammer drill;
• anchors or dowels;
• hammer;
• socket.

Whatever the reason for freezing of hollow core slabs, it is necessary to significantly reduce the humidity in the premises, be sure to check the efficiency of the ventilation and monitor the quality operation of the heating system. All work to repair the building and eliminate the causes of freezing should be carried out carefully and accurately. If you forget about some detail, you risk encountering this problem again, and very soon.