Midsummer is a hot time for harvesting strawberries (garden strawberries). It would seem that after collecting these delicious berries You can forget about caring for strawberry bushes until the next season, that is, until spring. However, this opinion is erroneous, since already this year, after fruiting, flower buds of next year’s harvest begin to form on garden strawberries. Therefore, after picking the berries, strawberries should be properly cared for. We recommend studying how to water and what to feed strawberries after fruiting in July, August and September in our article.

After harvesting, caring for strawberries includes the following procedures:

• regular watering;
• weeding;
• loosening and hilling;
• feeding;
• removal of mustaches and dried leaves.

Weeding and loosening

After fruiting, the strawberry beds should first be cleared of weeds. If the soil was covered with mulch, it should be removed, as pests and diseases can accumulate in old straw or sawdust.

To allow air to reach the roots, the soil around the bushes must be loosened. This should be done carefully to avoid damaging the roots.

After weeding and loosening, the strawberries are watered and hilled, covering the new growing roots with soil. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the heart of the plant is not covered with soil.

Watering strawberries in July

Many gardeners are interested in - Do I need to water strawberries in July?. The watering procedure must be carried out. The frequency and abundance of watering depends on the weather. In dry and warm weather, strawberries are watered at least once every 5-7 days in July. If it's cool outside and it's raining, there's no need to water the strawberry beds.

Attention! The soil should not be allowed to dry out. If there is no precipitation in warm weather, use approximately two buckets of water for each square meter beds.

Trimming tendrils and leaves

About 2-3 days after harvesting, remove old dried leaves from the strawberry bushes, as well as those that have red, tan or white spots. These are dying leaves that take away nutrition from the plant. They should be removed using pruning shears or sharp scissors.

Along with the leaves, unnecessary strawberry mustaches are also removed. For propagation, you can leave the most productive and powerful rosette, which is located immediately next to the mother plant.

Attention! When removing leaves and tendrils, be careful not to damage the hearts and new leaves.

Old foliage is often infected with various diseases and pests, so be sure to remove it.

How to feed strawberries after fruiting

In July, after trimming leaves and tendrils on strawberry bushes, the plants need nitrogen, which will stimulate the growth of new foliage. Can choose:

1. Nitramfoska or nitrophoska. Any fertilizer is diluted at the rate of 1-2 tbsp. spoons per 10 liters of water. If you only use nitrophoska, add a glass of wood ash, which contains many trace elements, to the solution.
2. Ammofoska. The fertilizer contains a large number of microelements. You can prepare a solution from it (for 10 liters of water - Matchbox fertilizing) or use dry. Dry fertilizer is scattered around strawberry bushes at the rate of 20 grams (matchbox) per 1 square meter. meter of planting, after which the beds are watered.

In the second half of July - early August, mullein or bird droppings will be a good fertilizer for strawberries. They cannot be added fresh, as they can burn the roots of the plants. It is recommended to use solutions:

• chicken droppings dilute 1:15 and water the bushes with it so that the solution does not get on the foliage;
• mullein dilute 1:10, leave for 24 hours and use as directed.

Chicken droppings and mullein can be enriched with mineral fertilizers by adding wood ash to the solution (per 10 liters - 1 liter of ash).

Attention! Strawberries do not like chlorine, so potassium chloride and other fertilizers containing this element cannot be applied to strawberries. Otherwise, the plants will grow and bear fruit worse.

Caring for strawberries in August

Watering

The last month of summer is often hot, so be sure to water your strawberry beds about twice a week. If the foliage begins to dry out and wilt, the plants do not have enough moisture.

Around mid-August, the soil around the strawberries can be covered with mulch. First, the beds are watered abundantly (per 1 sq. m - 15 liters of water). You can use humus as mulch, spreading it in a layer of 2-3 cm. Such mulch will become a good top dressing and at the same time protect the soil from drying out. Strawberries can be watered less often.

Tillage of soil and bushes

Do not forget to promptly remove from strawberry beds weeds, which not only prevents strawberries from growing, but also takes nutrition from the soil.

If the leaves on your strawberries are still drying out and turning yellow, continue trimming them. Each bush should have at least 3-4 healthy young leaves.

Trim newly appeared mustaches, and transplant those left for reproduction to new bed.

What to feed strawberries in August

In the last month of summer, there is no need for foliage to actively grow, so fertilizers containing large amounts of nitrogen are not used.

If you didn't feed your strawberries with mullein or bird droppings in July, do it in August. Dilute bird droppings 1:20, and mullein – 1:10. One watering can (10 liters) will be enough to feed 12 bushes.

In August, it is recommended to feed strawberries with potassium and phosphorus. These elements are part of Fasco fertilizer. Fertilizers Agricola, Ryazanochka, Rubin are produced especially for strawberries, which are used according to the instructions supplied with them.

After watering and fertilizing, do not forget to carefully loosen and hill up the strawberry bushes.

Treatment against pests and diseases

It is imperative to carry out preventive treatment of strawberries against various pests and diseases. To do this, water the soil with a weak solution of manganese and spray the foliage.

Strawberry leaves should be inspected regularly:

1. Brown spots on leaves may be a sign viral diseases. Treat the plantings with Bordeaux mixture.
2. Damage to young leaves often signals that strawberry patch earthen mites have started. Use Actellik, collodide sulfur solution or Titovia Jet to destroy it.
3. If the berries are rotting before harvest, perhaps the plants are affected by a fungus. When all the berries have been collected, the foliage should be sprayed with a solution of copper oxychloride.

Caring for strawberries in September

In the first month of autumn, strawberries are prepared for wintering. If after harvesting the strawberries were properly cared for, flowers will still form on the plants. They should be picked off, since there will be no more berries, and the flowering will take away the strength from the plant. You also need to trim off new tendrils and withered foliage.

Do I need to water strawberries in the fall?

If the weather is dry, strawberry beds are watered 1-2 times a month in September. About 10 liters of water are consumed for every square meter. Since autumn is already cool, frequent watering can lead to the development of fungal diseases. Therefore, it is better to water strawberries rarely, but abundantly.

Before covering the plantings in October, water-recharging irrigation is carried out.

What to feed strawberries in September

To survive cold winter, plants need strength, why they are fed phosphorus fertilizers. You can use superphosphate (50 grams) and wood ash (1 glass), which are diluted in a bucket of water.

Plants can be “insulated” before winter using cow manure or chicken manure:

• cow dung dilute in water (1:10), add wood ash (1 cup) and pour one and a half liters under each plant;
• chicken droppings diluted in water 1:15, after which each bush is fed with a liter of solution.

Mulching

In September, the soil in the strawberry bed is covered with mulch (if this was not done in August). Dry crushed grass, pine needles, straw, leaf humus, and sawdust can be used as mulch. The mulch layer should be about 5 cm.

You can cover the soil under the plants with spandboard.

Shelter for the winter

Only weakened plants that have not received the necessary nutrition need additional shelter for the winter. Cover the bushes at a temperature of about -3 degrees and dry weather. In this case, the covering material will remain dry. For shelter, you can use dry potato tops, leaves, spruce branches, straw, and raspberry branches.

When to cover strawberries for the winter depends on the climate of the region. It may be October or November, when light frosts set in.

If, when caring for strawberries after fruiting in July, August and September, all measures were carried out, next year strawberries will thank their owners with a good harvest.

It is natural that there is no gardener who does not have on his garden plot at least a few strawberry bushes. There are also those who occupy entire “hundreds” of strawberry plantations and get good harvests, but they sometimes do not know what to do with the plants after the entire harvest, that is, every single strawberry, has been harvested. It turns out that during this period nothing should be left to chance and strawberry plants should not be left to the mercy of fate. The end of fruiting is the most important period when the next year's harvest begins to actively lay down and if the plant has enough of everything - warmth, moisture, nutrition and care, then next year the harvest may be even higher than this year.

Caring for strawberries after harvest. © James A. Guilliam

Pineapple strawberries, or garden strawberries (Fragaria × ananassa) and their berries are often called strawberries, which is incorrect from the point of view of botanical nomenclature, but is widely accepted in everyday life. When we use the word “strawberry” in this material, we mean garden strawberries.

Rules for caring for strawberries after harvest

So, we will tell you what needs to be done immediately after harvesting the entire harvest from strawberry plantings, and then we will analyze each stage in as much detail as possible so that no black (unclear) spots remain.

Loosening

The first stage is, of course, loosening the soil. You need to loosen the soil carefully, both between the rows and under the bushes, trying not to damage the fragile root system of the strawberry and not to pull its roots to the surface. Loosening will ensure soil ventilation, get rid of the soil crust, increase air and water exchanges, respectively, the plants will begin to receive more nutrition and moisture from the same unit of area, grow and develop normally and will lay a sufficient number of generative buds to ensure a high strawberry yield.

When loosening the soil around the strawberry bushes, try to simultaneously cover them a little with fresh and nutritious soil, especially if you notice that one or more roots are bare.

Weeding

The second important activity that can be carried out literally according to the list is weeding the beds, that is, removing all weeds, especially wheatgrass. Wheatgrass is extremely tenacious and consumes a lot of moisture from the soil and nutrients. It is better not to weed it out of the ground, but to literally pull it out with your hands, then, perhaps, its further growth will be greatly slowed down.

You should not lose sight of other weeds, because they are just as competitors and therefore must be removed. It is best to remove weeds after watering or good rain, then the weed roots are mostly and much easier to pull out of the soil.

Watering

The beds need to be kept moist, just try to pour moisture under the bushes in the evening. It is better not to pour water on the leaves at noon - they may cause sunburn. Naturally, you need to water strawberries based on the weather outside, for example, if it's raining and the soil is already saturated with moisture, then additional watering is not needed at all; here it is much more appropriate to loosen the soil, and perhaps even tear off a couple of lower leaves one of those that are literally nailed to the ground to enhance the evaporation of moisture and prevent rot from forming.

If the weather is dry, and there is not even a hint of rain, then watering is necessary. When watering, it is best to use settled water or rainwater; it should be used to soak the soil to a depth of at least 5-6 cm so that the roots are saturated with moisture. It is also impossible to over-moisten the soil, but over-dried soil will be destructive for plants.

Drip irrigation of strawberries. © Reeser Manley

If you are a resident summer cottage, where you are only on weekends, then you can design simple system drip irrigation. To do this, you need to take a 200-liter barrel, place it on a slight elevation, under the flow of rain from the roof, make a couple of holes in the base of the barrel (according to the number of rows in the bed) for special tubes - droppers and lay them out along the beds with strawberries. Moisture, coming through droppers, will moisten the soil in your absence, where it is needed.

Mulching

If you don’t want to bother with installing drippers, then you can simply mulch the soil after each watering, with a layer of a couple of centimeters. You can use straw, sawdust, humus, or just dry soil as mulch for strawberries. For several days, such mulch will be quite enough to conserve moisture in the soil.

If, after harvesting garden strawberries, a layer of old mulch remains on the site, say, straw, which you laid out to keep the berries clean and protect them from fruit rot, you need to remove such mulch as thoroughly as possible and burn it, reuse it there is no need, as harmful microorganisms can accumulate in it.

Removing old leaves

The next stage: as you know, the leaf blades of garden strawberries, having served their allotted two years, begin to age, so they can be safely removed. They do it in every way: raking, mowing and even cutting by hand. There are no clear guidelines for such actions, but do not forget that when removing old strawberry leaf blades that have changed their color, it is important not to damage the growing points. Taking this into account, two methods are considered the most gentle - raking old leaves with a rake (they are easily separated) and removing them manually.

Fertilizing strawberries

This stage can be combined: removing old leaf blades can be combined with feeding the plants. Having reproduced their offspring, the strawberry plants are quite depleted, and there is a long winter ahead and a short period during which it is necessary to have time to re-lay flower buds in order to produce good harvest next year.

If there is little nutrition in the soil, this can also negatively affect the immune system: it will weaken and the plants may freeze in winter and at the stage of growth activity, so the bushes will produce a minimum number of flower buds.

What to feed garden strawberries after harvesting?

Adding one element to maintain an optimal balance of nutrients in the soil will clearly not be enough. Moreover, we strongly recommend adding all the elements in dissolved form in water, so that they reach the roots and, accordingly, the plant as quickly as possible.

During this period, it is best to use potassium sulfate (not chloride) dissolved in water, ammonium nitrate and superphosphate. Potassium sulfate, in terms of per square meter of soil, previously diluted in a bucket of water, you need 15-18 grams (that’s a liter per square meter), ammonium nitrate - the same amount for the same area, but superphosphate needs 45-50 grams, also dissolved in a bucket of water, and in the same amount per square meter of garden strawberry beds.

In addition to applying liquid mineral fertilizers, after about a week, under each bush, you can add 50-70 g of wood ash into previously loosened and watered soil, although there is not much potassium in wood ash, only 5-6%, but there are many other minerals(microelements).

In the absence of wood ash, you can add a handful of compost under the strawberry bushes; nothing bad will come of it. Somehow I came across an advice that at this time a handful of dried manure was added to the garden strawberries, I tried it on a couple of plants, they dried out after that, so this advice is at your own peril and risk.

As for wood ash, it can be poured not only under each bush, but also scattered between the rows, previously loosened and weeded, using two kilograms per square meter. Some write that it helps against mole crickets, I doubt this, but it’s a fact that the ash enriches the soil with potassium and microelements.

It would probably be superfluous to say that by performing all these operations, you leave plant residues and old foliage on the plantation; of course, this is not worth doing; absolutely all garbage from the site must be removed and burned: diseases, pests and various pathogens.

Loosening the soil and hilling strawberry bushes. © Gerri and Steve Grady

Protecting strawberries from diseases and pests

Next important stage, which for some reason is neglected by many, is preventive and eradicative treatment of garden strawberry plantings after the end of fruiting, both against pests and diseases. Once all the berries have been removed, carefully inspect the plants to see if they have pests or signs of various diseases.

Contrary to popular belief, there are quite a lot of diseases on garden strawberries. Take powdery mildew, for example. Its first signs of manifestation are observed in the form of a grayish coating on the leaf blades of strawberries; later these leaves begin to rot, and, of course, they fall off, first curling.

At the first signs of the presence of a disease, when the entire strawberry crop has already been harvested, the plants should be generously treated - top and bottom - with a solution of colloidal sulfur, for which it is necessary to dilute 100 grams of colloidal sulfur in a bucket of water at room temperature, stir well, fill the spray bottle and treat the plants, wetting all surface.

It also harms strawberries gray rot. Usually there are clearly visible gray spots on the berries and in some places such berries are still hanging, the pickers simply ignore them. You can't do that. First you need to collect all the affected strawberries and destroy them by burning: after all, these are foci of infection; and then - treat all plants, and especially carefully those where diseased berries were found, with a solution of copper oxychloride, in the amount of 45 g per bucket of water. The entire above-ground part of diseased plants should be moistened with the solution.

Another rot that few people distinguish from gray rot is black rot, it can be distinguished by the spots on the berries, they are black in color, although the action itself and treatment methods are absolutely the same as for gray rot.

Let's go further: spotting, usually spotting affects the leaf blades of garden strawberries, and brown-red spots appear on them. You can’t delay it, as the disease can quickly spread through still healthy plants and take over most of the plantation. Outwardly it seems that this is nonsense, just think - spots, but in reality these spots lead to disruptions in the functioning of the photosynthetic apparatus and, against this background, slow down general development plants.

Of course, this will not significantly affect the laying of next year’s strawberry crop, but spotting still needs to be fought. In this case, treatments with a solution of copper oxychloride are effective; it must be diluted in a concentration of 50 g per bucket of water and treated with this solution on diseased strawberry plants.

By the way, beginners quite often confuse foliage that has outlived its useful life and has a reddish tint with diseased spotting. Remember firmly that the old foliage just needs to be removed; it no longer needs any additional processing.

From diseases we gradually move on to pests - during the period when garden strawberries have given up their entire harvest, they also need protection from pests. At this time, strawberries are attacked by the strawberry weevil, strawberry mite and spider mite.

The strawberry weevil usually eats leaf blades; at earlier stages of plant development, it can also affect buds. In order to get rid of strawberry weevil, plants need to be treated with approved insecticides such as karbofos, using 70-80 g of the drug per bucket of water. When processing, you need to thoroughly wet the top and bottom of the strawberry leaves and also treat the soil.

Even more small insects is the strawberry mite. You can tell that it was he who struck the strawberry plantings by the slightly deformed foliage, which has changed its color to yellow. The control measures here are the same as in the case of the weevil.

It is quite easy to find spider mites on strawberry plants: if you turn the leaf over, you will see a cobweb underneath, this is a trace of vital activity spider mite.

After you notice a spider mite on strawberries, which sucks the juice from the leaf blades and greatly inhibits the development of the plant, reducing its immunity, it is necessary to treat the plants with any approved acaricide, and if the strawberry plants are severely affected, it is better to remove them and burn them outside the site.

Mulching strawberry plantings. © GrowOrganic

Replacing old strawberry bushes

So, we have already said a lot about what needs to be done after the strawberries have borne fruit, but not everything, there are still secrets left, and we will definitely tell you about them now.

For example, did you know that full fruiting of garden strawberries lasts only four years, but on sufficiently moist, nutritious soil it can last five years, after which, alas, it fades away without a trace, and it is better to renew the plantation? Now know!

Therefore, once you have collected the fifth, full harvest, the strawberry plantation will need to be replaced with a new one. Around the end of July, all old and drying strawberry leaves need to be cut off, removed, and only the very base of the bush, about 2-3 cm high, should be left from the shoots and shoots.

Be sure to remove everything that was cut from the site and burn it. This procedure is cruel, however, this fall it will allow the plants to form new leaf mass and lay flowering buds, that is, the key to next year’s harvest.

What to do with a strawberry mustache?

When removing shoots, there are a lot of them and they can be destroyed for real it's a pity. Taking this into account, if you have enough free space, then the remaining shoots, choosing the strongest and most well-developed and healthy ones, should be transplanted into newly laid beds. All other tendrils must be removed, otherwise they will simply draw moisture and additional substances to themselves to the detriment of the formation of the generative sphere of plants.

Cutting strawberry tendrils should be done at random; for this, you usually take a garden knife and remove the tendrils as close to the soil surface as possible. Do not pull out the shoot under any circumstances, as this will almost always pull out part of the root, and it may dry out, and consequently the entire plant will die.

Rejuvenation of strawberry plantings by layering of mustaches. © Chloe

Preparing strawberries for winter

Preparing strawberries for winter should not be ignored; this is a significant part of the guarantee of a good harvest for next year. If there is enough moisture in the soil, then water the plants late autumn no need, if it’s not enough, then around the end of October you can pour a couple of buckets of water per square meter of soil.

Carefully inspect the plants again, especially after watering, if you notice that root system sticks out here and there, be sure to dig it in with moist and nutritious soil. When the first stable frost sets in, in order to retain the snow in the area of ​​the strawberry bed, it is necessary to cover it with spruce branches; it is not so reliable protection from the cold, but it retains snow on the site just perfectly.

But many people do not recommend using straw as a covering material for strawberries in the winter; mice usually breed there, so if you have a lot of straw and nowhere to put it, then at the same time lay out poisoned baits to protect yourself from mice.

Well, that's all we wanted to tell you. If you have questions or advice, write them in the comments, we will be happy to answer your questions and use the advice!

When growing a fruit crop, it is necessary to adhere to certain rules and standards dictated by agricultural technology. Only in this case will it be possible to achieve excellent results and keep the plant healthy, ensuring full development. The article will discuss how to process strawberries after cutting the leaves, and the features of pruning.

Pruning after fruiting in summer

Even after picking the berries, the process of caring for garden strawberry bushes does not end. Experienced gardeners Be sure to prune the plant in order to get rich, high-quality and old castings next season. During work, old foliage must be removed. They cannot be used to mulch the area because they may contain small pests and when they get into the ground they will begin to actively multiply.

Despite the prevalence of the procedure, not everyone adheres to it. Disputes often arise among agronomists regarding the advisability of such care.

Available different opinions on this occasion.

1. There is an opinion that the total destruction of foliage leads to severe stress on the plant, and such third-party interference in natural development can only harm the bushes.
2. Others are sure that such a shake is not only useful, but also necessary for strawberries. Removing leaves will provoke activity, which will have a positive effect on fruiting.

How to carry out the work?

The pruning procedure begins after the bushes have completely stopped bearing fruit. Depending on the climate in the region and the variety, the time for work may fall at the end of summer or beginning of autumn. It is recommended to wait 2-3 days after harvesting, especially if the plant shows disease symptoms.

It is necessary to trim foliage as close to the base as possible because disease spores may persist in the cuttings.

Use only clean and sharpened tools, otherwise, infection may enter the bush through fresh cuts. For work, use a garden pruner, but if you don’t have one at hand, you can use sharp scissors. Do not tear off foliage or tendrils with your hands. This can cause serious damage to the strawberry root system.

It is important to determine the correct time for pruning. It is necessary not only to wait for the end of fruiting, but also not to delay the deadlines. If you are late, then before the onset of frost the plant will not have time to form new leaves and the shrubs may die.

Aftercare

If the bushes have been producing crops for five years, on the territory of one plot, after harvesting the fruits, it’s time to replant the plant. It is necessary to prepare a new landing site in advance, lead it into the soil organic compounds(plitz droppings or humus), thoroughly loosen the soil and moisten it. Also this optimal time for the destruction of the old and the establishment of a new plantation.

In the case where no manipulations with the plants are provided, some work needs to be done after picking the berries.

1. Remove and destroy whiskers, keeping the whiskers grown for propagation intact.
2. Collect all the leaves on the territory of the strawberry plantation.
3. Weed out the weeds.
4. Loosen the soil, going as deep as possible by 15 centimeters. These are necessary precautions to avoid damaging the roots.
5. Treat the bushes with a solution of colloidal sulfur.

1. The soil in which it grows strawberry plantation, must be constantly moistened, even after picking berries. This is necessary for the growth of new foliage.
2. Use only warm water for irrigation after pruning plants.
3. Do not forget about loosening the top layer of soil and mulching. Such care is required even after all the strawberries have been harvested.
4. To prevent sunburn, water your plants early in the morning or at sunset.

Colloidal sulfur treatment

Experienced summer residents use various time-tested and effective means for processing fruit crops after pruning. One of these drugs is considered to be cumulus or colloidal sulfur. This is a substance of inorganic origin that helps protect plants from fungal infections and various diseases. Percentage sulfur accounts for 80%. Available in granule format.

Benefits of use:

1. Safety for human health and plant crops. No toxicity.
2. The drug can be combined with other insecticides and fungicides.
3. Excellent results in the fight against even persistent infections.
4. Favorable price.
5. Economical consumption.
6. The effect is not lost in windy weather.
7. Convenient to use and control the dosage.

Flaws:

• the effect is significantly lost if the air temperature drops below 20 degrees Celsius above zero;
• at temperatures above 35 degrees there is a risk of damaging plant leaves;
• Working with the drug requires strict adherence to safety rules and strict adherence to all points of the instructions.

Top dressing

Any fruit crop needs additional nutrients. Fertilizer application is necessary for a high-quality and rich harvest. During the cultivation process, it is important to choose the right fertilizer, its dosage and introduce it into the soil at the right time. at a certain stage plant development.

The formation of berries takes a lot of energy from the plant; therefore, the shrubs should be provided with increased nutrition. He does this in order to garden strawberries survived the winter frosts and gave excellent harvest next year.

On shelves specialty stores can be found huge selection balanced fertilizers, with which you can not only feed the plant, but also protect it from pests. Some compositions are used to spray foliage, others are applied at the root.

Before use, be sure to read the instructions and follow them during operation.

There is a list of compounds, components and fertilizers that are used to feed strawberry bushes after pruning. The following are in great demand:

• herbal infusions;
• wood ash;
• ammonium nitrate.

Bird droppings

Organic fertilizers widely used in horticulture. They are highly regarded for their safety in use, effectiveness and availability. Regardless of the type of feeding, you must follow the instructions for use and dose correctly.

Chicken manure is considered an aggressive and potent fertilizer, so before use it is necessary to dilute the component, adhering to the ratio of 1 kilogram of manure per 20 liters of water.

It is also important not to overdo it and use the composition in doses. Otherwise, nitrates will accumulate in the berries. If you do not have proper experience in handling this type of feeding, it is recommended to opt for a weak mullein mixture.

Manure

Instead of mullein, you can safely use slurry, first diluted in water. For 8 liters of liquid you will need 1 liter organically. After which the resulting mixture must be left for 2 days so that the solution can infuse and then fertilize. Apply 500 milliliters of the resulting composition to one strawberry bush.

Experienced gardeners share practical advice, recommending the use of cow manure to mulch the soil between rows of bushes. During the propagation process, the organic component will gradually nourish the soil and fruit plants.

Nettle infusion

Nettle tincture shows an excellent effect. This plant is rich in potassium and nitrogen.

To prepare the fertilizer, you need to fill the barrel with cut nettles and add grass clean water and leave for a week. The finished composition is poured under the root of the bushes. You can fertilize strawberries with the prepared tincture at various stages of crop growth and development.

ABOUT beneficial properties You will learn how to care for strawberries in the following video.

In the second half of summer, all the berries from the strawberry beds have already been collected, but we must not forget about the plants. The quality of care for strawberries after fruiting will determine how good the harvest will be next year.

At the end of July or beginning of August, caring for strawberries consists of several activities:

1. Trimming. Usually, a month after picking the berries, the strawberry leaves are mowed, and all the mustache is removed, if not required. planting material for propagation or rejuvenation of strawberries. Pruning old leaves is done to prevent various diseases. It is recommended to cut the leaves by hand with pruners or scissors to avoid damaging the growing point, and the young leaves in the center can be left.

After clearing the beds of yus leaves, the strawberry plantation looks neat, you can evaluate the condition of the hearts and the density of the planting. You cannot delay pruning until the end of August or carry it out in September; by autumn the plants must grow new leaves, which will go into winter. There is also no need to rush into pruning strawberries, since the bushes, left without protection from the sun, will suffer from the summer heat.

2. Mustache removal When planting strawberries of the first and second year, they do so regularly all summer long. To propagate strawberries, whiskers are left on three-year-old plants. 1 or 2 mustaches are left from each bush, and there should be two rosettes on them; the remaining length is removed, since only the first rosettes are the strongest. To root, the rosettes on the mustache are pressed to the ground or directly into buried cups.

3.After trimming the strawberries, the beds are cleared of mulch . Mulching for strawberries is done in the first half of summer to maintain moisture in the soil, protect against weeds, and the berries on the litter ripen clean. After removing the old mulch, the soil between the strawberry bushes is deeply loosened, the bushes are hilled up a little, but the center of the hearts is not covered.

4. Fertilizer for strawberries after pruning is necessary to give impetus to the growth of new greenery. Fertilizing strawberries with complex mineral fertilizer can be done simultaneously with loosening; for this, fertilizer is scattered on the bed at a rate of 20 grams per 1 sq.m. and with loosening they are buried deep into the ground. To fertilize strawberries, you cannot use fertilizers that contain chlorine, for example, potassium chloride.

You can replace mineral fertilizer with organic fertilizers. Strawberries quickly begin to grow after watering with an infusion of chicken manure; for this it is diluted 1:15.

At the end of August or September, strawberry beds are mulched with compost humus; this layer of mulch is necessary not only for nutrition, but also for protection from the first frosts, and will also cover exposed roots.

5. After pruning, strawberries are regularly watered generously once a week. if the weather is hot and dry. It is useful to water the strawberry beds 1-2 times with a pink solution of potassium permanganate; this will prevent diseases and additionally feed the plants.

6. After picking the berries and trimming the leaves, strawberries must be treated for diseases and pests . The drugs Actellik, Fufafon or Fitoverm will help get rid of a complex of pests. When powdery mildew appears, spray with a solution containing Topaz.

Any gardener simply must know how to care for strawberries after harvesting, otherwise you can’t even dream of large, juicy berries. Strawberries respond favorably to care and care, giving an abundance of tasty and tender fruits.

Strawberry harvest time

Remontant strawberries begin to bloom in May, continuing until October. The first fruiting occurs in early June, depending on the growing region, the second harvest occurs in July, and the third in August. Disposable early varieties can bear fruit as early as May. There are a lot of varieties, and each of them has its own fruiting period, for example, the Flamenco variety begins to bear fruit only in August and ends in December. Therefore, everything is quite arbitrary.

Care after first fruiting

In order for strawberries (garden strawberries) to bear fruit well, almost all-season care is necessary. It is a mistake to think that after harvesting strawberries do not need anything, here it is quite the opposite - the bushes need special manipulations for restoration. Proper care for strawberries after fruiting helps to increase productivity by at least 15-40%. Thanks to correctly performed preventive work, the fruits become larger, juicier and tastier.

Care after the first fruiting of strawberries

Care after harvest in July

The strawberries have borne fruit; what to do next is one of the most common questions in gardening. Everything is actually quite simple. After harvesting strawberries in the summer, the following manipulations are carried out:

• weeding;
• mustache trimming;
• removing dried, dry leaves;
• feeding;
• hilling.

First of all, the beds are weeded to remove weeds, then the dry leaves are disposed of and the tendrils begin to be cut off. Red leaves must be removed.

Attention! Under no circumstances should they tear off the leaves or tendrils - the bush will be damaged and begin to get sick; special garden scissors and pruning shears are used for manipulation.

If there are young curling leaves or their wavy configuration, the crop must be treated with anti-mite drugs, since these signs indicate the presence of Tarsonemus fragariae.

After you have finished trimming the mustache, remove the old mulch, loosen the soil, fertilize it, and water it. Near the plants, loosening is done to a depth of 5 cm, and between rows - up to 10 cm.

Then they hill up the bushes, the roots of which must be completely covered, and the tops must be above the ground. In particular, this applies to older plants, in which over time the root system tends to protrude above the ground.

Feeding and watering

The bushes need to be fed with mineral fertilizers with the addition of microelements. For one sq. m - on average 30 g of fertilizers. Fertilizers intended for strawberries are suitable for this purpose: ammophoska, fertika. They are embedded to a depth of 6 cm. It is forbidden to use fertilizer that contains potassium chloride, as it slows growth and impairs fruiting.

They also use well-rotted humus, scattering it on top of the soil - it improves the structural parameters of the soil and fertility. Chicken droppings diluted in water (in a ratio of 1:15) are used with caution, avoid getting on the leaves to avoid burns. High concentrations are detrimental to bushes.

Watering is carried out until the end summer season, at least once a week (1 bucket per sq. m). The best effect is achieved by drip irrigation - the soil does not become waterlogged, the plants do not rot, getting required amount moisture.

Watering strawberries

Berry care in August

Proper care of strawberries after harvest will help ensure a bountiful harvest in the future. August fits best in this regard.

Care in the last month of summer consists of:

• pruning leaves;
• mustache transplantation;
• protection from diseases and pests;
• preparing strawberries for winter.

All old leaves are cut off (early, middle and late varieties). By overgrowing, bushes increase the chances of diseases and pests. When trimming the tendrils, leave at least 10 cm at the base of the plant. For planting, only healthy, strong antennae are used. To improve the fertility of strawberries, the strongest tendril is left on the bushes, from which a new mother bush will grow to replace the old one. This manipulation is carried out every 3 years.

In August, preventive and therapeutic measures are carried out against fungi, pests and powdery mildew. It is necessary to treat the bushes with preparations of your choice: “Aktellik”, “Karbofos” (protects against strawberry mite, weevil), “Azotsen”, “Topaz” (fights powdery mildew). The use of a one percent solution of lime and copper sulfate is effective against rot.

Preparing for winter

Fertilizing in August increases the frost-resistant qualities of the plant and promotes the formation of flower buds. On at this stage The plant needs nitrogen-containing fertilizers. Complex mineral fertilizers should include: nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, in a ratio of 1:2:4. Ready-made ones will do: “Fasco”, “Autumn”, “Autumn”. The latter, in turn, does not contain nitrogen and can be used in later periods. Among organic products, preference is given to peat, horse manure in granules, bone meal and humus.

The “fed” strawberries are mulched. Leaves, pine needles, straw, and potato tops are used for winter shelter. The insulation procedure is carried out in warm, dry weather, otherwise the layer will cake and contribute to the development of diseases inside or rotting of the root system. The layer covering the plant for autumn and winter should be at least seven centimeters. In addition to mulch, it is used non-woven material(spunbond, for example).

Important! Bird droppings are contraindicated, otherwise an excess of nitrogen may occur.

Preparing strawberries for winter

Features of caring for reusable strawberries

A permissive attitude towards strawberries after the first harvest is extremely unacceptable, otherwise the future harvest will be in great doubt. The very first harvest, even if insignificant, deprives the plant of many nutrients and strength, and by the end of fruiting it is in a fairly noticeable depleted state.

After harvest:

• the area is well loosened;
• get rid of weeds;
• feed;
• remove the mustache.

You need to start these procedures as early as possible, before the strawberries have grown too much. The roots should not look out; be sure to cover them with soil.

Top dressing

Strawberries respond favorably to herbal infusions and yeast nutrition. Good effect gives nettle extract, which is prepared as follows: 2/3 of the container is filled with finely chopped nettle, dandelion leaves, and common nettle (the flowers are removed to prevent the appearance of weeds), then filled with water, sealed and left in the open sun. The result is a mixture that is disgusting in smell and appearance, but at the same time very useful for the crop. The resulting consistency is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10 and applied to the beds. Yeast is added to the herbal infusion.

Watering is carried out until the end of the summer season.

Yellowed and dying leaves of bushes are removed. A controversial issue arises regarding young, intensively growing greenery: gardeners are divided into half, one of which believes that removing foliage contributes to better formation of flower stalks, while the other, on the contrary, argues that bushes after such procedures noticeably weaken, since photosynthesis is greatly reduced when removing greenery .

Fertilizing strawberries

Removing a mustache

After the first harvest, the mustache grows with excellent speed and strength, while taking a lot of strength from the strawberries. Rooted tendrils contribute to the formation of new bushes, which contribute to additional harvest. It is for this reason that the second harvest stands out with a large number of berries. At the same time, summer residents emphasize that offspring should be expected only from the first shoots, which can be determined by size; subsequent shoots will not produce a harvest this year. Therefore, only the first tendrils are left, and the rest are cut off to save the plant’s energy for the formation of berries.

Removing bushes

Reusable strawberries have two divisions: DSD (long daylight hours) and NSD (neutral daylight hours). The first bears fruit for 2-3 years, the last - only one season, after which the bushes are changed.

Preparing for the winter season

DSD plants are covered with insulating materials (straw, grass, pine needles) for the winter.

The NSD strawberry will need to be transplanted to a new place of residence. The procedure includes the following nuances:

1. old bushes are removed from the garden beds before the first frost arrives;
2. seedlings are transferred to the new territory no later than August - September, so that by the time of arrival subzero temperatures young bushes are well rooted;
3. The planting material is mustaches cut from the mother bushes;
4. flowers that appear on the bushes are removed;
5. after the second frost, the strawberry bushes are removed from all foliage, and the beds are covered with insulation (straw, fallen leaves, sawdust).

Spring care of remontant varieties

Caring for remontant strawberries in the spring does not have any special features; the berries, like at any other time of the year, require: watering, regular loosening, timely disposal of weeds, fertilizing and treatment against diseases and pests.

In the early spring of last year remontant strawberries remove dry, yellow and diseased leaves. Feed the soil with ammonium nitrate.

The first fruiting is characterized by lower quality berries, so gardeners recommend removing flowers during the first flowering, saving the plant's strength, then the second fruiting will be very productive.

Spring care remontant varieties strawberries

Correct manipulations can increase the yield of berries significantly. Simple, but very effective advice from experienced summer residents:

• Maintain crop rotation: strawberry bushes quickly age and lose productivity; it is not advisable to grow them in the same area for more than 4 years. The best option is to change the bed every year.
• Rotation of varieties: systematic updating of the assortment with new species prevents pathogens from adapting to the immune profile of varieties;
• Weedy strawberries are mercilessly removed: these varieties may have barren flowers, small unattractive berries or not bloom at all, are distinguished by powerful growth of greenery and tendrils, and muffle the “good” bushes.
• Proper propagation: a new bed is made from part of your own bushes and part of purchased ones.

The kind of care you provide to strawberries will result in the same harvest, since it is an important component for the formation of juicy, large and healthy berries.