Non-switchable lines in electrical panels. Non-disconnectable lines Internal content

However, I would like to touch on it again. On the Internet you can find a huge number of different examples of making apartment panels, especially on YouTube. Some craftsmen go to the point of absurdity when drawing up apartment panels.

In my opinion, this topic will primarily be useful to customers, because... The customer, often, does not particularly understand electrics and is ready to believe everything that the electrician offers. And careless electricians are only too happy to lay hundreds of meters of cables in your apartment and earn as much as possible from it.

Some people install protective devices on almost every outlet, and then brag about their work. Is this necessary? Why waste money when it could be spent on more useful things.

There are 2 main types of apartments:

apartments with gas stoves (6 kW);
apartments with electric stoves (10 kW).

Superior apartments are quite rare, so they need to be considered individually. I was once sent to look at a project for a private house, I think for 250 kW

In accordance with the latest standards, for an apartment with gas stove 6 kW is allocated, 10 kW is allocated for an apartment with an electric stove.

What is 6 or 10 kW? This means that at the same time you can have electrical appliances on with a total power of up to 6 kW if you have an apartment with a gas stove or 10 kW if you have an electric stove.

No matter how many household appliances you have, in general you will not be able to use more than 6/10 kW. In most cases this is quite enough. It is extremely rare that you decide to do laundry, heat food in the microwave, drink tea, etc. If you turn everything on at the same time, then, of course, the input circuit breaker will work and turn off the entire apartment. In practice, this practically never happens.

On my YouTube channel there is a section: How much do they consume? If you're interested, take a look at how much household appliances actually consume. Soon I will add a video about a toaster, multicooker, monoblock, coffee grinder and other small household appliances that I have at home.

A typical electrical panel diagram for an apartment with a gas stove will look like this:

At the entrance to the apartment panel, I propose installing a 300 mA selective fire protection RCD. Don't skimp on this product. It's not cheap, but think about what could happen to your apartment in the event of a fire? Anything can happen and problems with household appliances There may also be problems with the electrical wiring...

PUE 7: 7.1.84. To increase the level of fire protection during short circuits to grounded parts, when the current value is insufficient to trigger the maximum current protection, at the entrance to the apartment, individual house etc. It is recommended to install an RCD with a trip current of up to 300 mA.

To reduce the cost of the apartment panel, a common RCD is provided for the first three groups.

This group includes:

oven;
kitchen sockets;
room sockets.

The so-called “wet sockets” are separated into a separate group, on which their own difavtomat is installed. For example, the power of a washing machine is about 2 kW, but this does not mean that it consumes that much power during operation. The washing machine consumes 2 kW only when heating the water, which is approximately 10% of the time of the entire washing cycle; during washing, consumption is about 150-300 W. The operating mode of a dishwasher (DMM) is similar to the operation of a washing machine. The PMM consumes the most power when heating water. The power of the electric heated towel rail is 100-300 W. There is no need to worry that a 16A difavtomat is not enough for the socket group in which washing machine, dishwasher, electric towel dryer.

We also provide a separate line with automatic protection for lighting the bathroom or bathroom and toilet.

For lighting the kitchen, corridor, rooms - a separate group, protected by an automatic switch. For lighting, a 6-10A circuit breaker is sufficient.

Why not install a common RCD instead of two automatic devices? I think it’s not worth it, because... the probability of these groups being triggered is higher than the first three. If we suddenly have problems with the washing machine, then only this group will turn off, which will allow us to quickly identify the problematic equipment and will not cause discomfort to those in the bathroom.

Regardless of how many rooms there are in the apartment, 2 lighting groups and one socket group for all rooms are enough. For 1-3 room apartments this rule must always be followed. IN living rooms There are no powerful consumers, so there is no point in splitting up several groups.

The electrical panel diagram for an apartment with an electric stove will look like this:

This scheme differs from the previous one in the presence of a separate group for the electric stove, protected by a 32A circuit breaker.

These are standard schemes for apartment panels that have nothing superfluous, are made in accordance with all norms and requirements, are economical and easy to use. In cases where air conditioning is available, heated floors and other customer wishes, these schemes are very easy to transform into more complex ones.

To implement these schemes, a modular panel with 18 modules is sufficient. When completing a switchboard, always provide reserve spaces for installing additional devices. They may come in handy in the future.

For more information about the schemes of apartment panels, see the video:

I also want to note that this circuit can be modified and made a little more expensive, but I’ll tell you about this in a separate video.

As you know, repairs are akin to a small-scale natural disaster, and one of its integral components is the electrification of residential or business premises. We remember how important a role electricity plays in a home when it suddenly disappears due to an accident. Providing an apartment or private house with power supply, as a rule, includes two basic components: installation of electrical wiring and assembly of an electrical panel.

Each of these components involves the sequential implementation of a number of steps, which at first glance are quite simple, however, as practice shows, in the vast majority of cases, requiring the participation of a professional electrician. If the owner of the premises intends to independently solve the problem of supplying electricity to a house or apartment, it is necessary, at a minimum, to carefully study the hardware, that is, prepare theoretically, before assembling the electrical panel with your own hands.

The electrical panel is the heart of the home electrical system

We will not be mistaken if we say that the main function of the electrical panel is established home, in an office, cafe or any other room, is the distribution of electricity to consumers and ensuring safety when using electrical appliances. Every owner of a residential or business premises at some point is forced to deal with the problem of how to assemble an electrical panel. Long-term uninterrupted operation of the huge number of household appliances that fill any home or office today largely depends on how correctly the electrical panel is assembled.

The shield itself is a plastic or metal box in which components (or modules) are placed, each of which performs a specific function. There are so-called internal electrical panels, that is, recessed into the wall, and external ones - placed on the wall.

In a private home, the electrical panel is often installed outdoors; in this case, a waterproof design of the device will be required (protection level IP65). Considering the fact that it is unlikely that the electrical panel will be changed annually or even once every five years (as a rule, the device lasts much longer), it would be advisable when choosing a device to give preference to a more expensive, but high-quality panel of a well-known brand with a supply of seats.

Where to start?

Every experienced electrician will confirm that it is much easier to begin work on installing an electrical panel and wiring, having before your eyes a floor plan indicating the intended placement of household appliances, lighting fixtures, as well as sockets and distribution boxes. Having decided on the number and power of consumers, it is necessary to draw up a diagram of the electrical panel itself. A single line diagram might look like this:

In this diagram, all consumers are divided into 20 groups, for each of which the following is indicated:

wire grade and core cross-section, mm²;
power;
current consumption;
type of circuit breaker indicating the rated current.

For the uninitiated, such a diagram looks quite complicated, so you can use a simplified schematic representation of the location of the electrical panel components.

For greater clarity, the electrical panel diagram can be depicted as follows:

Or even like this:

1 - introductory AB;
2 - counter;
3 - zero bus;
4 - grounding bus;
5–10 - AV consumers.

Having such a diagram in hand, it is much easier to figure out how to properly assemble an electrical panel.

How to properly form consumer groups

When distributing electricity consumers into groups, you should adhere to certain rules:

powerful consumers (2 kW or more), which usually include a hob, oven, water heater, washing machine, etc., should be powered by a separate switch. In this case, the cable must go from the panel to the consumer, bypassing the distribution boxes;
two-kilowatt consumers are connected with a copper cable with a cross-section of 2.5 mm² and a 16 A circuit breaker. If you are guided by the tabular data, then for a 2 kW device a 1.5 mm² wire, as well as a 10 A circuit breaker, is sufficient, but to create some reserve, as a rule, the components of the following are installed level;
in some cases (if the consumer power exceeds 2 kW), a 4 mm² wire with AB 25A or a 6 mm² wire with AB 32 A may be required - such components are sometimes used when connecting a hob, oven or instantaneous water heater;
for each room you should make a separate socket line, which will branch out from the distribution box into the required number of sockets;
the same applies to the lighting line - each of them is connected, as a rule, by a 10 A automatic machine and a 1.5 mm² wire.

It is this approach to the distribution of consumer groups that can ensure uninterrupted and safe operation of home and office electrical appliances. It is extremely undesirable to use components and materials of dubious origin, even if they are an order of magnitude cheaper than “branded” ones: with a high degree of probability, such parts will have to be changed in the near future.

The socket line is usually equipped with a 16 A circuit breaker.

Electrical Panel Components

The assembly of an electrical panel requires the presence of mandatory components, which include circuit breakers, residual current devices (RCDs), electricity meters, buses, as well as additional and auxiliary components that add convenience to the operation of the panel: voltage control relays, light indicators, digital voltmeters, contactors and so on.

Among the most respected by specialists are the manufacturers of components used in the installation of electrical panels - ABB, Legrand, Shcneider Electric. The prices for devices of these brands are approximately the same. Chinese devices are much cheaper, but practicing electricians claim that once using Chinese equipment to complete an order, you can lose your reputation for a long time, so they use such components only at the request of a customer who cannot afford branded components.

Everything is ready for installation

So, the diagram has been drawn up and understood, the components have been prepared - nothing prevents you from starting assembling the electrical panel. First of all, the location of the shield is selected, on which the device is attached, as a rule, with self-tapping screws or clamps. The electrical panel housing is usually located near the entrance to the house or apartment - in the vestibule or hallway. If the owner has expressed a desire to hide the shield in the wall, and the wall turns out to be concrete, you can use a false wall or a plasterboard ledge: the area of the room may be slightly reduced.

When choosing a place on the wall to install an electrical panel, you should take into account that the distance from the device to the nearest doorway should be at least 15 cm, the distance to the floor - 1.5–1.7 m. If necessary, the owner of the home or a called electrician should be able to easily reach the panel : It is strictly prohibited to place the device inside cabinets or other furniture. The device should be located away from gas pipes and flammable materials.

To prevent the electrical panel from being too large or small, you can first determine its size by knowing the dimensions of the components that will be located in it. For example, the width of a standard single-pole circuit breaker is 17.5 mm, a two-pole circuit breaker is 35 mm, and a three-pole circuit breaker is 52.5 mm. The remaining components have the following dimensions:

The modules are located on the so-called DIN rail - a special metal plate 35 mm wide. The socket is not one of the required elements, but may be useful during repair work. If, when adding up the number of components, it turns out that a panel with 20 modules is needed, then it would be reasonable to install an electrical panel with 24 or even 32 modules - who can know how many household electrical appliances will be added to the house in a year, two or five?

We run cables into the electrical panel

Having a special cable entry with a removable cover can eliminate problems with wiring cables into the panel. On high-quality panels, such an input is usually provided; low-quality ones are better not to be considered at all. If the electrical panel is installed outside, there are usually no problems with cabling. If the shield is hidden in a niche, there may be nuances: getting to the inlet hole in this case can be quite difficult, so the electrician needs to be patient and persevering.

The design of the cable entry of the electrical panel, as a rule, provides for perforated holes, which are brought to the required size by simply removing excess jumpers. The cables are fed into the shield through a corrugated pipe, standard size which is 16 or 20 mm, respectively, and the holes should be made of this size.

Often the electrician is hampered by the mobility of the wires inside the corrugated tube. To fix the wires and make them stationary, some use alabaster, which is applied to the input hole from the side of the gate. Let us immediately make a reservation that this method of fixation is not convenient and aesthetically pleasing. It is much more efficient to secure the wires using special removable plugs or gland plates.

To avoid future confusion with wires, you should immediately label them. The input cable is supplied, as a rule, in the upper left corner - where the input machine is usually installed.

We cut the cables and mount the modules

Every electrician will confirm that working with a tool specifically designed for a particular operation is easier and more enjoyable. You can cut the cables inside the shield with a regular construction knife, but if you do it with a special knife with a heel, everything turns out faster and better.

After cutting the cables, you should re-label the wires, since there will be quite a lot of them and if you get tangled in them, it will take a lot of time to restore order. When feeding cables into the shield, you should leave a length that is equal to twice the height of the shield, that is, run the cable through the entire shield, and then measure the same amount. This measure is not wasteful: the wires inside the shield do not go in a straight line, but along an intricate curved line, and it is better to have a little extra wire left than not enough.

There are no strict rules for the arrangement of modules in the electrical panel; however, electricians usually use one of two installation schemes - linear or group. In the first case, all elements are arranged one after another in the order shown on the single-line diagram: automatic input device, RCD, automatic circuit breakers, consumer circuit breakers. Among the advantages of this location option is ease of implementation, the disadvantage is that it is difficult to find the “culprit” of the emergency situation.

If a group layout of modules is implemented in the panel, the components alternate among consumer groups: AV input, RCD, group of switches linked to this RCD. Next, the next RCD and the corresponding group of circuit breakers are installed. Such a circuit is somewhat more difficult to assemble, but the problem line is immediately visible from the triggered RCD.

Assembly Rules

There are certain rules that should be followed when assembling an electrical panel:

all wires inside the panel must be of the same cross-section as the input wire;
any module must have an entrance at the top, an exit at the bottom;
if installation is carried out using PV3 stranded wire, it is necessary to use NShVI lugs.

The sequence of steps for an electrician performing the assembly may look like this:

Final stage

The shield is installed in its place after all dirty repair work is completed. The panel body is mounted in a niche, the DIN rails with the assembled modular equipment are fastened with self-tapping screws. The working (N) and protective (PE) zero buses are fixed. Phase and neutral wires are arranged in separate bundles and laid on opposite sides of the shield. The force with which the connections are clamped is 0.8 Nm.

Before starting commissioning work, you should make sure that all sockets, junction boxes, and switches are assembled. All consumer groups should be signed on the external panel of the electrical panel. After about a month of work, all connections of the shield should be tightened.

Video on the topic

Hello dear reader! I hope you find it interesting.

Electrical panel in the apartment

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Symbols on the electrical circuit diagram of the panel

In the diagram, I tried to define in detail all the symbols of the elements of the panel diagram. All that remains is to give them an explanation.

Input circuit breaker . A device designed to protect the entire electrical network from short circuit currents, as well as for general forced disconnection of the premises from the power supply.

Electric meter. Device for monitoring electricity consumption. The flow rate is shown in Kilowatt per hour (kW/h). Payment for electricity is made based on the readings of the electric meter. Electricity meters can be electromechanical and electronic. The latter are programmed.

Differential circuit breaker. This is an electromechanical device that combines a short-circuit protection circuit breaker and an RCD (residual current device) to protect people from leakage currents.

Wire connection buses. Each electrical panel is equipped with at least two busbars. One for neutral wires, the second for ground wires. In the given example of the electrical circuit of the panel of such buses 4(N;N1;N3;N4)

The panel has two separate functional groups (on the right in the diagram). One group has two branches, the second has three. For example, this option is suitable for separate functional groups of the bathroom and kitchen. Or any extensions to the house.

Normative references:

PUE (Rules for Electrical Installations) ed.7
GOST R 51628-2000, Distribution boards
GOST 2.702-75, Rules for the execution of electrical circuits
(Regulatory documents)

A modern electrical panel in an apartment or private house is not the usual two plugs on the meter, but a rather complex input and distribution device. In which each group of consumers is protected by its own circuit breaker and RCD. One of the unusual groups is non-disconnectable lines. We will explain below what these are and how to connect them in the panel.

Definition

Non-disconnectable lines, groups or circuits are conditional concept. It refers to electrical appliances that are connected separately relative to other electrical appliances. Non-switchable power circuits include:

security systems and alarms;
refrigerators;
circulation heating systems;
septic tanks and so on.

Let's figure out why we need non-switchable lines in the shield! Let's say you are going to leave and therefore want to turn off the electricity in the house in order to protect yourself from emergency situations. However, if there are food left in the refrigerator, they will melt and disappear, and in winter the water in heating system the pipes will freeze and be damaged, which is especially important in a private home or country house.

Those who have installed video surveillance or alarm systems will have a problem - the system will lose power. Of course, security systems are connected via the block uninterruptible power supply, but usually the capacity of its battery is selected for a period of several hours to a day of autonomous operation.

In this regard, it becomes necessary to separate unswitched lines from the rest of the house's electrical network.

Shield layout

Standard option

First, let's look at electrical diagram of a typical electrical panel without non-switchable circuits, it looks like this:

AB1 is an input machine, usually installed in the metering panel in a private house, and in an apartment - in the floor panel.
AB2 is an input circuit breaker or circuit breaker in an apartment switchboard.
AB3-7 are group circuit breakers for lights, sockets, electric stoves and other consumers.

Here, if you need to de-energize the apartment, all circuits are turned off without exception. Let's look at what to include in the group of non-disconnectable lines in more detail.

To connect additional circuits that will not be disconnected from the main power supply circuit, you need to do it in front of the input switch in the electrical panel with group circuit breakers. That is, up to AB2, if we consider the previous diagram.

Then in this diagram everything will be similar to the previous one, only AB8-AB10 will be automatic switches that cannot be turned off by an input switch or automatic circuit breaker. Alarm systems, refrigerators, etc. will be powered from them.

Circuit with RCD

Let's add differential protection to the circuit, this is what the circuit with unswitched lines and RCDs will look like:

You can learn more about what an RCD is from our article:. Naturally, the circuit above can be modernized at your discretion, for example, by adding a fire protection RCD, adding an RCD for each group of consumers, or replacing the AB + RCD combination with and saving space in the electrical panel.

For example, in this diagram, at the input there is a fire protection RCD with a high response current (for example, 300 mA) and two group RCDs for 30-50 mA.

Circuit with voltage relay

If you have an unstable power grid, it will be protected.

However, sometimes disputes arise regarding the connection of non-switchable circuits in this case. Sometimes they are connected to the voltage relay, but then you need to remember that in the event of an accident on the line (), this equipment will be in danger.

Circuit with contactor or starter

To turn off the main consumers by pressing 1 key, you need to connect them via or via , minus the non-disconnectable lines. To do this, you can use a simple light switch or toggle switch.

To gain control of the main part of your home’s electrical network via the Internet via Wi-Fi, you need to add a relay to the previous Wi-Fi circuit, replacing the switch with it. To do this, you can use the Sonoff relay, which was popular at the time of writing:

Conclusion

Undisconnected lines are a fairly important concept in electrical engineering. Their purpose is that these circuits can improve the reliability of the important electrical systems of your apartment or house. After all, if the main machine goes out, they will continue to work. The given schemes are easy to modernize or scale to suit your needs. Their organization in three-phase circuits is no different from the example given, with the exception of the number of poles of the contactor and other switching devices.

Let us list the advantages and disadvantages of this approach to designing an electrical panel circuit.

Advantages:

Uninterrupted operation of security systems, refrigerators, pumping equipment heating, water supply and sanitation.
Greater convenience during repair work on both main equipment and equipment that does not turn off. That is, there is no need to disconnect consumers in whose circuits repair work will not be carried out.

There is only one significant drawback - mistakes may be made by electricians who see your electrical panel for the first time. After turning off the input circuit breaker, voltage will remain on some consumers. Therefore, you need to correctly arrange the shield and sign the machines.

Now you know how to make non-switchable lines in the panel and what they are needed for. We hope the diagrams provided helped you understand the issue and choose the most suitable option assembling a shield for your own conditions!

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