Dendrobium orchid: care at home. Dendrobium: home care Dendrobium is the only one

Orchids are a favorite of many gardeners. These exotic plants can become the main decoration of a home flower garden on the windowsill. This perennials, varieties of which require different growing conditions. There are several types of these flowers at specialized points of sale; the most common among flower growers is the Dendrobium orchid, or more precisely, an orchid hybrid, since it is very difficult to purchase it in its natural form.

The real version of this type of flower can only be purchased in nurseries or botanical gardens. Considering the species included in the purchased hybrid, the orchid may be demanding in terms of care conditions (temperature, humidity). It is not difficult to grow dendrobium at home, you just need to follow certain care rules.

Care and cultivation features are not difficult. Many gardeners without special effort carry out the cultivation and propagation of orchids at home. Each variety of this plant requires different conditions and nuances of care.

Important! Before you purchase exotic flower, it is recommended to find out from the seller what climate it grows in, since due to the diversity of species, give general recommendations care is impossible.

Among general rules growing rules, the following can be distinguished:

the flower pot is placed in places where there are no drafts;
V summer time years, the flower should not be exposed to direct rays of the sun, otherwise the orchid leaves may get burned.

Sometimes flower growers wonder if an orchid has faded, what to do? Care after flowering consists of removing the withered peduncle and moving the pot to partial shade, without watering for several days.

Lighting requirements

Many novice flower growers are concerned about the question of how to care for exotic plant so that it pleases with its flowering and does not suffer from illiterate care. An important condition for properly caring for a dendrobium orchid is lighting. It is this factor that becomes key in the development of flower stalks and the appearance of new shoots.

Lack of light is the main reason for the growth and development of the root system and leaves to stop; the orchid does not bloom. Therefore, experienced gardeners recommend installing for orchids additional source lighting (especially during periods of lack of sunlight - in winter and late autumn). If the plant does not have enough lighting, its growth slows down and flower stalks practically do not form..

The color of the leaves can tell whether the flower is in the right place:

If the green mass is light green in color, this indicates that the plant is receiving a large amount of sunlight, so it is recommended to install partial shade.
If the green mass has a dark green color, this is a signal of a lack of light.
If the dendrobium leaves turn yellow, this indicates an acute lack of sunlight. At the same time, not only the leaves turn yellow, but also the stem of the flower changes its color.
With sufficient lighting, the green mass is green in color, without any changes.

It is recommended to install the pot with the plant on the south side. If the container is located in the west or east, additional light will be required. In summer, you can take the flower outside to a place protected from drafts and direct sunlight. In winter, it is worth using a lamp for additional lighting for 6 hours.

Important! After purchasing a plant, it is not recommended to immediately place the pot in the sun. A newly purchased flower is not yet ready for an abundance of sunlight. He needs to be accustomed to the source natural light gradually.

Temperature

It is recommended to place the container in a warm and well-lit place in the spring, since it is at this moment that active growth, development of leaves and root systems begins, green mass increases and flower stalks form. If you place the dendrobium orchid in a sunny and warm place (for example, on the windowsill of a southwest or southeast window), flowers will appear on it earlier. Interestingly, those plants that bloom with white flowers do not require as much light as those plants with rainbow flowers. rich color. During the warm season, it is recommended to take dendrobium orchids outside, to a hidden place from the sun and strong wind.

Dendrobium bihump

Dendrobium christie

Dendrobium King

Dendrobium moniliforme

Dendrobium is the only one

The temperature range for dendrobium and other varieties of orchids is large. Certain types of flowers can successfully withstand 0 °C. The most optimal temperature for this plant is no more than 32 degrees in summer and about 15 °C in winter.. The dendrobium phalaenopsis orchid evaporates a lot of moisture if it grows at elevated temperatures. At the same time, under such conditions, the root system gradually dries out, as the roots stop receiving moisture. It is recommended to observe the difference between day and night temperatures; this difference largely determines the correct growth and development of the foliage and root system. At night the temperature should not exceed 19 degrees.

The temperature in which it prefers to grow depends on the specific variety of flower. All orchids are usually divided into those that love warmth and those that prefer cool temperatures. In the autumn season, due to temperature changes at night and daytime Flower buds begin to form on the trunk. On subsequent oscillation temperature regime flower stalks appear.

Attention! Orchids are not able to withstand very sharp and large temperature ranges.

In autumn there is no need to water the plant, but maximum lighting is important. When buds begin to form, the container with the flower does not need to be moved to another place, otherwise the buds will die, flowering will not begin, and a baby will form in place of the formed bud.

What should the humidity be?

The dendrobium phalaenopsis orchid is able to adapt to low humidity levels. When growing in the natural environment, different types of orchids adapt to sudden changes in climatic conditions - long periods of drought and prolonged rains. The uniqueness of orchids is that they can grow successfully both at home and in greenhouses. This is dictated by the fact that at low air humidity, orchids are able to consume a large amount of moisture through the root system, and the moisture evaporates into the green mass. If the amount of humidity is increased, flowers begin to absorb less moisture. If there is low humidity in the room, you should periodically spray the plant. IN winter time such procedures are not carried out. Such care at home allows the flower to fully develop.

You can place a glass of water near the container with dendrobium, this will provide additional hydration. Humidity needs to be created only around the flower itself, otherwise dampness can cause the development of fungus and various pathogens, which can provoke subsequent infection with diseases.

How to water correctly

Caring for dendrobium orchids and other varieties of flowers involves proper watering. The amount of liquid used and the frequency of the procedure are determined by the temperature and the amount of natural light in the room. Frequent watering is required when light and temperature levels are elevated. In winter, caring for an orchid does not involve constant watering.. During this period, the growth and development of the plant slows down, so the abundance of moisture leads to rotting of the root system. Each variety of orchid requires a different interval between watering procedures. According to recommendations experienced flower growers, before watering you need to look at the soil mixture, it should be dry.

Dendrobium nobile orchid and its other varieties require watering with settled or filtered and heated water. It is recommended to periodically take a warm shower. Such flower care will bring great benefits, clean the pores of the leaves, and have a positive effect on the green mass of orchids. When buds begin to form, you should stop watering, otherwise a baby will appear in the place of the peduncle.

The peak activity of flower growth and development occurs in spring, continuing throughout the summer. Home care during this period means that with every third watering, you need to add fertilizer to the soil for the flower. A special substrate specifically for these plants is used as fertilizer. This fertilizing is done by diluting the fertilizer halfway with water. In addition to fertilizing, it is recommended to periodically treat the bushes with diluted mineral fertilizers ( foliar feeding). Such care and feeding allows the plant to fully develop.

How to choose the right soil mixture for planting

An orchid is planted or replanted in a special soil mixture, which can be purchased at specialized sales points. The most optimal substrate will be one that includes elements such as bark, moss, peat and charcoal. If the substrate for planting is prepared with your own hands, it is recommended to heat treatment soil mixture, then dry it thoroughly.

This is how disinfection occurs, this makes it possible to prevent possible damage to the flower by bacteria and fungal spores that may be in the soil. The bottom of the pot is covered with crushed stone or broken pieces of brick, creating drainage system. After that, a layer of fine bark is laid, the last one being peat, thanks to which the plant will grow in an optimal acidic environment.

Plant transplantation and propagation

How to transplant an orchid correctly - this is the problem that novice gardeners face, since these flowers often die during the transplantation process. This is due to the fact that their roots do not tolerate injury.. Therefore, an orchid should be replanted no more than once every 4 years, when the roots come out of the pot. Do not take a very large pot, otherwise the growth of the plant will slow down. How to plant an orchid - the plant is carefully removed from the pot and new shoots are separated, after which planting is carried out.

The plant should be propagated by dividing the bushes and by forming lateral sprouts, called children. Children need to be separated at the moment of active growth of leaves and roots, planted in separate pots. The sprout can also be cut off with the bulb so that it transfers its nutrients young seedling. The dendrobium nobile orchid is one of the varieties of flowers that, along with phalaenopsis, is most often grown at home.

Varieties of Dendrobium

Dendrobium is distinguished by an abundance of species and varieties, each more beautiful than the other. Let's look at the most attractive species grown at home.

Dendrobium phalaenopsis– Australian orchid, with pseudobulbs up to 70 cm. Long peduncles develop up to 10 burgundy flowers from 5 to 8 cm in diameter. Each bud lasts 2 months and appears in early winter. Old pseudobulbs can bloom 2-3 times.

Dendrobium nobile- native to southeast Asia. Multi-leaved, glossy pseudobulbs reach 80 cm in length. On a short peduncle there are 2-3 fragrant flower up to 10 cm in diameter. The flower tips can be dark purple or cream pink. The petals themselves are white.

Dendrobium unicum – miniature orchid originally from Thailand and Laos. By nature, it sheds its leaves and remains in this state for most of the year. It has from 1 to 3 lateral flowers appearing on internodes that have shed their leaves. The flowers are colored bright orange color from 3 to 5 cm in diameter. Blooms in the first half of the year.

Dendrobium densiflorum– this epiphyte comes from the Himalayas. Drooping flower stalks can contain up to 50 fragrant flowers with bright yellow petals and orange fringe along the edges. The clusters of inflorescences reach 30 cm in length.

Critical components of maintenance consist of controlling the moisture content of the atmosphere, the intensity of moisture introduction into the soil, and ensuring a safe temperature. Lighting is one of the main conditions. There are some that will feel great in unpretentious environments - be it in a greenhouse or on the street. Having determined which class the plant belongs to, correctly determine the required care. All known plants are divided into classes. Some can be cultivated strictly outdoors. Some plants can be grown exclusively at home without an aggressive environment.

Dendrobium orchid and growing conditions

In nature, it is a typical epiphyte of various types of trees in warm, humid lowland forests with pronounced seasonal fluctuations in humidity and temperature, which is reflected in the name (“dendron” - “tree”, “bios” - “life”). This name was assigned to dendrobium in 1799 (as well as to cymbidium) by the Swedish botanist Olaf Swartz. He combined these two Greek words to describe the epiphytic features of the orchid's life.

Houseplants

Dendrobium orchid ( Dendrobium). Dendrobium nobile, Dendrobium phalaenopsis and others. Care at home. Photo

Dendrobium is one of the lightest home care, and therefore popular orchids. In terms of frequency of keeping at home, Dendrobium nobile hybrids are second only to Phalaenopsis. See photos and read about caring for dendrobium orchids, flower propagation, and what to do with dendrobium babies

Dendrobium nobile, Dendrobium phalaenopsis and others

Dendrobium. one of the most extensive genera in the orchid family, including up to 1200 species. In nature, dendrobium occupies a huge range, covering the entire south of Asia, Australia, New Zealand, as well as the adjacent islands of the Pacific and Indian Oceans. Name dendrobium translated from Greek as tree dweller and clearly indicates that the dendrobium is an epiphyte - an aerial orchid. Only a small part of dendrobiums are lithophytes (living on rocks). Read more about the types of orchids in our special article Orchids for Beginners.

Hybrids are often grown at home dendrobium nobile, or dendrobium noble ( Dendrobium nobile) . which grows naturally in the Himalayas. Over the years of selection, many hybrids of Dendrobium nobile have been bred different colors white, pink, purple, yellow and brown (often with a flower lip of a contrasting color). The charming new hybrids of Dendrobium nobile group deserve special mention Yamamoto. We will talk about home care for Dendrobium nobile hybrids in this article.

In addition to Dendrobium nobile. popular groups of dendrobiums for keeping as a home, indoor flower are bred from plants of Australian and New Guinea origin. Another famous species of dendrobium comes from these regions - Dendrobium phalaenopsis, or dendrobium moth ( Dendrobium phalaenopsis) .

Dendrobium: flowering

For good flowering Dendrobium in the cold season, plants are kept cool (approx. 10 degrees - dendrobium nobile. approx. 15 degrees - phalaenopsis dendrobium and other New Guinea hybrids), with minimal watering and without fertilizer, while providing an abundance of light and good air circulation. At the end of winter - beginning of spring, the dendrobium should bloom. If by the end of winter no buds have appeared on the dendrobium, feed the orchid 2-3 times with phosphorus fertilizer during watering.

As the temperature rises in the spring, watering of the dendrobium should be increased. spray the plants and maintain high air humidity. After the dendrobium has finished flowering, it begins to be regularly fed with orchid fertilizer (as recommended) or a complete balanced mineral fertilizer(diluted 4 times weaker than recommended on the package). In spring there is active growth of greenery and dendrobium children. which continues into the summer. In the fall, feeding is stopped, watering is reduced and the plants are moved to a cool place - the dendrobium enters a dormant period and prepares for new flowering.

Dendrobium: home care

Dendrobiums love an abundance of light, so at home in central and northern Europe they grow well on southern windowsills when the sun is low (mid-autumn - mid-spring). As daylight hours increase, it is better to move the dendrobium to a western or eastern window to avoid direct hot sun.

Dendrobium phalaenopsis and other dendrobiums from New Guinea need high air humidity. To provide them familiar conditions, during the warm season, regularly spray the plants, and also add wet moss to the flowerpots.

Water dendrobiums once a week (or depending on the conditions). The substrate in the dendrobium pot should be almost dry before watering. I water all my orchids (including dendrobium) using the dipping method. warm water with dissolved fertilizer (when required) for 10 minutes, and then remove and let all the water drain before the orchid goes back into the pot.

Dendrobium: babies, reproduction and planting

Dendrobiums form a large number of children (keiki) - miniature plants with leaves and roots on the nodes of the stem of the mother orchid. Typically, babies are formed on dendrobium after flowering has ended. Dendrobium babies are suitable for reproduction. root length that has reached at least 3 cm (see photo above). Young miniature dendrobiums are planted in small pots (dendrobium roots love close quarters!) in early summer.

DENDROBIUM ALOELEAF

(Dendrobium aloifolium Rchb. f.)

An epiphyte common in Southeast Asia and Indonesia. Thin shoots are densely covered with unusual triangular leaves, more like the leaves of succulents. Short flower stalks develop from the buds of the upper internodes of the shoot, which are devoid of green leaves. The flowers are numerous (at least 10-12) and very small, only 0.2-0.4 cm in diameter. All parts of the flowers are greenish-white. Blooms in summer and autumn, from July to October.

DENDROBIUM LEAFLESS

(Dendrobium aphyllum S. Fischer)

Epiphytic or lithophytic species, widely distributed in Southeast Asia. Pseudobulbs are long, semi-drooping, multi-leafed. Short flower stalks develop at the nodes of last year's shoots that have shed their leaves and bear one to three pale pink flowers with a creamy fringed lip. Each flower reaches 3-5 cm in diameter. The main peak of flowering occurs in February-May, however, flowering specimens in cultivated conditions can be found almost all year round.

DENDROBIUM NOBLE

(Dendrobium nobile (II - V), D. nobile Lindl.)

Epiphytic orchid, widespread in Southeast Asia. Pseudobulbs up to 60-90 cm long, multi-leaved. Short peduncles develop one to four flowers from 6 to 10 cm in diameter, which have a dense texture and can even be cut for some time. Flowers of various shades - from dark purple and deep pink to pure white. The lip has a large dark purple spot. In cultivation, it often blooms from January to May.

DENDROBIUM BIHUMPED

(Dendrobium bigibbum Lindl.)

DENDROBIUM SINGLE

(Dendrobium unicum (IV - VI), D. unicum Seidenf.)

This miniature epiphytic and lithophytic dendrobium is native to Northern Thailand, Laos and Vietnam. The plant is deciduous and remains in a leafless state for most of the year. Lateral one- to three-flowered inflorescences usually appear on internodes that have shed their leaves. The flowers are turned with the lip upward, bright orange, 3.5-5.0 cm in diameter. The lip is pale yellow. Blooms from January to June.

DENDROBIUM CHRISTI

(Dendrobium christyanum Rchb. f.)

The miniature epiphyte is native to northern Thailand, Vietnam and southwest China. Pseudobulbs consist of 2-7 internodes, each of which bears one leaf. The inflorescences are single-flowered, very short, appearing in the upper part of the shoots. The flower is up to 5 cm in diameter, white or creamy, translucent. The lip is three-lobed, with a red-orange or orange-yellow central part. Blooms from mid-summer to mid-autumn.

DENDROBIUM LINDLEY

(Dendrobium lindleyi Steud)

An epiphytic species widely distributed in Southeast Asia (India, Burma, Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and southwestern China). The pseudobulbs are unifoliate, densely covered on the outside with translucent scale-like leaves. The inflorescences are lateral, drooping, bearing 10-14 pale yellow or golden yellow flowers 2.5-5.0 cm in diameter with a wide open lip equipped with a large orange-yellow spot in the center. Blooms from March to July.

DENDROBIUM LODDIGEZA

(Dendrobium loddigesii Rolfe)

Homeland - Laos, Vietnam, southwestern China, Hong Kong. This is a small epiphytic orchid (10-18 cm) with multi-leaved thin pseudobulbs and large bright flowers with a diameter of 5 cm. The inflorescences are one-two-flowered, usually appear in spring on shoots that have shed their leaves. The flowers have pinkish-purple sepals, purple petals, and a pinkish-purple lip with a large yellow-orange spot in the center. Flowering lasts from February to June.

DENDROBIUM LIONIUM

(Dendrobium leonis Rchb. f.)

Homeland - Cambodia, Laos, Malaya, Thailand, Vietnam, Sumatra and Kalimantan. A small (10-25 cm) orchid with thin shoots and completely covering them with fleshy, flattened triangular leaves from 3.8 to 5 cm long. Inflorescences develop at the nodes of apical internodes that have shed their leaves. Each peduncle bears one or two creamy-yellow or pale-green inconspicuous flowers with a diameter of 1.5-2.0 cm. It mainly blooms in summer and autumn.

DENDROBIUM ODORLESS

(Dendrobium anosmum Lindl.)

An epiphyte widely distributed in Southeast Asia. In nature, its shoots can reach enormous sizes - up to 3 m, and in culture - 30-90 cm. Short peduncles appear on shoots that have shed their leaves and develop 1-2 large bright flowers. Flowers with a diameter of 7-10 cm, painted in purple tones various shades. Flowering plants of this species can be found in the greenhouse all year round, with peak flowering observed from January to April

DENDROBIUM PRIMOCOLOR

(Dendrobium primulinum Lindl.)

The species is widespread in Southeast Asia. Epiphytic plant with long multi-leaf shoots. One or two-flowered inflorescences develop from the buds of internodes that have shed their leaves. The flowers are 4-8 cm in diameter, light purple with a large yellowish-white fringed lip, which inside the throat is painted with parallel dark red or purple stripes. In nature it blooms in spring, in cultivated conditions - from January to August.

DENDROBIUM FARMER

(Dendrobium farmerii Paxt.)

Epiphytic orchid, common in northern India, Nepal, Bhutan, Thailand, Laos, Malaya. Club-shaped, erect pseudobulbs bear two to four leathery leaves at the apex. The inflorescence is a drooping raceme, consisting of 15-35 tightly closed purple, pink or cream flowers with a yellow spot on the lip. Each flower reaches a diameter of 5 cm and remains fresh for about two weeks. The main flowering occurs in March-June.

DENDROBIUM PHALENOPSIS

(Dendrobium phalaenopsis (IX - I) /D. phalaenopsis Fitzgerald)

An epiphytic or lithophytic plant from the north of Australia, the islands of New Guinea, Timor and the Moluccas. Pseudobulbs are slightly widened in the upper part, 2-5-leafed. Inflorescences are multi-flowered. The flowers are 3.5-7.0 cm in diameter, flat, with wide petals and a narrow lip with lateral lobes. The flowers are painted in all shades of pink-purple and crimson. Flowering plants can most often be found from August to December.

DENDROBIUM HARVEY

(Dendrobium harveyanum Reichb. f.)

Homeland - Thailand, Burma, Vietnam and China (Yunnan Province). The pseudobulbs are fusiform, with two or three leaves at the top. Inflorescences appear from the buds of the uppermost internodes on old shoots that have already lost their leaves. Each inflorescence develops three to six bright yellow flowers up to 5 cm in diameter. The petals are long-fringed along the edge, the lip is wide, also fringed, but with shorter hairs. Blooms in early spring, from February to April.

And also Dendrobium thyrsiflorum (III - V), Dendrobium pierardii (III - VI), Dendrobium kingianum (II - V).

Recently, new species have appeared for breeding:

Dendrobium Cuthbertson (V - VIII), Dendrobium dark purple (II - V), Dendrobium delightful (XII - II).

The genus is widespread in tropical forests Southeast Asia, the islands of the Pacific and Indian Oceans, and Australia. Most dendrobiums are epiphytic or lithophytic plants.

Generic crossings: Not common.

Dendrobium is a fancy nymph that lives on a tree. These flowers instantly evoke thoughts of something fabulous, enchanting.

“Flowers are the remains of heaven on earth” - John of Kronstadt.

Among the simple exotic flowers grown on the windowsill, it is already common to see Dendrobiums. These are representatives of the genus of herbaceous perennials of the Orchidaceae family, from the Greek “dendrobium” is translated as “living on a tree”. There are species that live on rocks.

In nature, the Dendrobium flower grows in Japan, China, Australia, Oceania, New Zealand and New Guinea, the Philippines, there are more than 1200 species that differ not only in color, shape of flowers, leaves, but also in flowering time, the habit of placing flowers on the stem...

Dendrobium is a small orchid, from 40 to 90 cm, the stem is made up of cylindrical pseudobulbs. The leaves are lanceolate-shaped, from 5 to 10 cm, placed alternately on the stem. Peduncles rise from the axils, containing from one to four fragrant flowers, 6-8 cm in diameter. Various colors: white, yellow, orange, lilac, two and three colors.

How to care for dendrobium at home

Growing conditions

Dendrobium is a fairly unpretentious plant, care will not be difficult. Since Dendrobium orchids are representatives of the epiphyte family (“growing on a tree”), their vegetation is extremely negatively affected by dry air, lack of lighting and excess moisture.

Diversity does not allow us to outline all the rules for keeping Dendrobiums at home. Each species has its own whims, but there are general requests that the amateur gardener needs to be aware of. The cultivation of each species must be carried out adhering to the rules of agricultural technology specifically for this species, otherwise the flower will die. General rules:

Dendrobiums love bright, diffused light without direct sunlight;
flowers, like any orchid, do not tolerate drafts;
in nature, dendrobium does not enter a dormant period, but in room conditions this is necessary for the formation of flower buds.

Lighting

A native of tropical forests needs generous diffused lighting, but without direct sunlight. Autumn winter period Dendrobium will survive well on southern windowsills. When there is a lack of lighting, the shoots become crooked and the number of flower buds produced decreases, so it is necessary to use additional illumination with daylight phytolamps:

having white and pale pink flowers, withstand lack of lighting much better. When illuminated, they will also feel wonderful on windows on the north-east side;
Dendrobium with bright red, pink, yellow flowers is best kept on windows facing southeast, southwest. In winter they move to the south side, not forgetting to create additional lighting

Spring and summer best option placement of dendrobium - western or eastern windows. At noon, if the orchid is on south side, it needs to be shaded.

Air temperature and humidity

On summer days, the optimal temperature is considered to be 20 o C, in winter - up to 17 o C. A decrease in night temperature by 2-3 degrees is allowed. Under such conditions, watering should be limited or replaced by spraying the substrate every two to three days.

If the ambient temperature rises, water quickly evaporates through the stomata on the leaves. Only part of the moisture they need reaches the roots. For this reason, it is necessary to regulate air humidity. Place the pots on a tray with water and pebbles or damp moss. Spraying will also help. Dendrobium needs high humidity air within 65-70%. Hybrid species grow wonderfully, blooming even at 40-50% humidity.

It is important to spray Dendrobiums in the early morning or evening so that drops of moisture do not cause leaf burns.

How to make dendrobium bloom at home

For abundant flowering during the warm period, it is necessary to create conditions for the orchid to rest in winter: fertilizing and watering should be stopped, the difference between day and night temperatures should be 7-10 o C.

In summer, temperature fluctuations occur naturally. In winter you will have to try: the night air temperature should be at +16-18 o C, but without drafts. Elevated temperatures contribute to the degeneration of flower buds into “babies”. When roots appear on the mother plant's fresh shoots, you need to start watering. New shoots will “catch up” with the old bulbs, then watering is stopped before the buds appear and resumed when they bloom.

An excellent incentive for flowering can be a summer “walk” on a balcony, loggia, garden, or terrace. Fresh air, a place protected from the wind and direct rays - and after two weeks the Dendrobium will inevitably throw out its flower stalks.

This orchid blooms from two to four weeks with a wide variety of flowers, depending on the variety: lilac with a yellow center, white with pink tips, crimson, just white and lilac.

How to feed dendrobium

From April to September, 2-4 times a month. Fertilizer can be added to the water used for irrigation, or applied half an hour after watering by spraying or immersing the container in a nutrient solution. The concentration of the solution is made half as much as indicated on the package.

There is no need to feed during flowering. Additional nutrition is necessary for the plant if new pseudobulbs grow or old pseudobulbs thicken during this period.

Important: you can only feed healthy orchids.

Watering dendrobium

Many people don’t know, dendrobium. You have to choose the “right” moment. The signal to start watering is the drying of the top layer of the substrate:

In summer it is enough to water 2-3 times a week;
In winter, watering is minimal.

Watering can be done by surface or submersion methods. Orchids growing in pots are watered from above; in baskets or blocks, they are placed in water for 3-5 minutes. The substrate needs to dry out between waterings. It is recommended to water with soft, even boiled water, the temperature of which is several degrees higher than room temperature. From April to September, watering can be combined with fertilizing with fertilizers rich in nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. The frequency of fertilizing is every two waterings.

Important: do not allow water to get on peduncles, flowers, young bulbs, or leaf axils. Otherwise, there is a high probability of fabric rotting! If liquid does get in, you need to carefully blot it with a napkin.

Dendrobium in winter: how to properly care for an orchid during the dormant period

Before winter-spring flowering, a dormant period begins in November, which lasts two months:

The orchid is transferred to a bright, dry, cool place.
The desired temperature is about 15-16°C during the day and 8-10°C at night.
If it is not possible to arrange a daily difference, a constant temperature within 10-12°C will do.
With more high temperatures or humidity, the Dendrobium may not bloom.

Dendrobium orchid propagation

The plant propagates by children, cuttings and dividing the bush. The baby is a tiny shoot with the beginnings of roots.

How to separate and replant dendrobium babies:

When the baby has grown to at least five centimeters, it is cut off;
moisturize the roots;
place a half-filled pot;
add substrate and compact;
the growth point is left on the surface.

The seedling must be secured with a support. Greenhouse conditions are not required. Spray the top layer of substrate between waterings.

Reproduction of dendrobium by children video:

How to divide a dendrobium bush:

pseudobulbs are separated from the mother plant;
cut into cuttings with 2-3 nodes, about ten centimeters long;
placed on damp sphagnum, placed in a zip bag or greenhouse.

The temperature is maintained at +20-25 o C, ventilated and moistened every day. After 14-20 days, the cuttings will take root, then they can be transplanted into pots with substrate.

Propagation of dendrobium by cuttings at home

Dendrobium nobile and others reproduce well by cuttings: you can cut off the apical part of the shoot or completely divide the entire shoot into parts 10-12 cm long.

The resulting cuttings are kept in a root solution for a day, and then rooted simply in water in a sterile container, pouring water only to the bottom of the container.
After a few months the plants will have developed root system, and they can be planted as independent bushes.

Dendrobium is a simple way to propagate an orchid that does not require much of your attention. The only drawback is that you need to be patient, because the rooting process can last up to six months.

Transplanting dendrobium at home

Dendrobium is replanted every three years, provided that:

the substrate has decomposed and compacted;
the plant has filled the entire container with roots;
the substrate has become acidic or salty due to frequent watering;
Some of the roots rotted after waterlogging.
It is also recommended to replant the newly acquired orchid, replacing the transport substrate with one more suitable for dendrobiums.

What pot is needed to transplant dendrobium?

Pots are usually opaque. When choosing a new container, you should take into account that the orchid can only develop in a tight container 3-4 cm larger than the previous one. When replanting Dendrobium, you should follow some simple rules:

the plant is placed in the solution for 10-15 minutes succinic acid(one tablet per liter of warm water);
when saturated with moisture, the roots will acquire a greenish-milky color;
take out, leave to dry for half an hour on a towel;
placed on a substrate in a pot;
old pseudobulbs should be located closer to the edge;
the root collar is left on the surface;
the roots are straightened, the gaps are filled with bark.

Water after 3-14 days (depending on the size of the roots), when the wounds on mechanically damaged roots have healed.

Important: replant carefully, as the roots of Dendrobium are very fragile.

You can also cut off the faded stems of the plant at ground level and lay them horizontally on damp sand. Keep the sand damp for several months. Closer to autumn, when children with roots form on the stems, transplant them into separate pots.

Substrate for dendrobium

The main ingredient of the substrate for dendrobium is pine bark; the pieces are medium in size, which allows it to dry out in a couple of days. Adding moss or peat leads to waterlogging of the roots and rotting. The best addition is a generous handful of charcoal per liter of bark. Crushed polystyrene foam, pebbles, broken brick. Expanded clay is not the best option, as it can accumulate salts that have a negative effect on the orchid’s root system.

Important: the prepared substrate must be disinfected. Pour boiling water over it, let stand for 10-15 minutes, wait until it dries

How to save a dendrobium if it turns yellow and withers

Root rot

The reason for the death of the plant lies in improper care. One of the consequences is damage to the root system:

excessive moisture of the substrate;
overfeeding with fertilizers;
caked substrate;
insufficient watering;
overheating of the plant;

It is easy to determine the degree of damage to the root system. You just need to move the orchid slightly. There are no problems with roots if the plant sits tightly.

The problem with the roots is obvious if: they are brown, hollow, slimy. In this case, you need to remove the flower from the container and remove rotten and damaged roots. Don’t be upset if you have to cut off most of the roots: the presence of at least one whole root gives good chance revive Dendrobium. After trimming the roots, spray them with a solution of phytosporin, treat the above-ground part as a preventive measure. Let the moisture dry and replant the dendrobium in clean soil.

The trunk of the dendrobium is rotting

Stem rot usually occurs from the bottom up from the root to the stem to the leaves. This happens when root rot is not resolved in a timely manner.

Secondary fungal or bacterial infection may pick up the baton and aggravate the situation. This is possible if the plant is not helped in time: at the first signs of disease, the orchid needs to be treated with phytosporin and replanted in clean soil.

Dendrobium withers

The consequence of improper care can be wilting of the leaves. They become lethargic, turn yellow and die. Reasons:

damage by spider mites;
tissue atrophy due to lack of moisture;
rotting of leaves from waterlogging;
root damage.

If the leaves have softened and look like a “rag,” immediately cut them off and treat the cuts with a fungicide, and also stop watering until the substrate dries to 2/3 of the height of the container.

Dendrobium becomes covered with cracks:

there was mechanical damage to the plant, for example, a leaf was dropped, bent, etc.;
excess nitrogen. To save the flower, it is necessary to free the roots from the previous substrate and replant them. The first few months do not fertilize, then feed with potassium and phosphorus fertilizers. The orchid will take about a year to recover.
sudden hypothermia after watering. You should not place Dendrobium in winter after a shower on the windowsill close to the glass.
watering is too infrequent, so the leaves lose their elasticity. After watering, the plant intensively begins to consume liquid; dehydrated tissues do not have time to distribute moisture, become deformed and burst.

Dendrobium leaves turn yellow if:

the natural aging process occurs;
are affected by diseases and pests (more on this below);
there was a chemical burn from fertilizers or growth stimulants;
the plant overheats;
stressful situations: relocation, lack of lighting, humidity, unfavorable air temperature, improper watering.

Sometimes the dendrobium orchid presents unpleasant surprises: why the leaves turn yellow and what to do must be decided based on the symptoms and the rate at which the problem worsens. Often the cause of yellowing leaves is pests and diseases, about which you can read more in the next section of the article.

Dendrobium sheds buds and flowers

This condition can be caused by the following factors:

sudden change in habitat;
lack of lighting;
overheating in the sun or from heating;
incorrect watering;
hypothermia.

Interesting fact: it is contraindicated to place Dendrobiums near fruits, especially apples, bananas, and apricots. They emit ethylene, which contributes to the accelerated aging of flowers and buds.

Dendrobium orchid diseases

The leaves of the dendrobium orchid are turning yellow, what to do? Bacterial rot in the photo

Compassionate care isn't everything. It is difficult to observe a flower without pests and diseases affecting it. Diseases are caused by fungi, bacteria and viruses.

Viral diseases of dendrobium

They manifest themselves as unusual spreading spots, the disease develops slowly, gradually capturing new leaves, which die over time. You can remove old affected leaves, then the young ones will look healthy. But..

Remember: viral diseases impossible to cure, no matter how much you fight for the plant, it will hurt, and even if you remove all the diseased leaves, provide the orchid good care, the virus will be in a latent state and will manifest itself at the slightest stress: temperature changes, improper watering or lack of necessary microelements. It is better to throw away such an orchid immediately so as not to infect the others, and wet clean the room using a disinfectant.

Dendrobium fungal infections

To cure dendrobium from most fungal infections, you need to treat the plant multiple times. systemic fungicide with thiophanate methyl as the active ingredient. Ridomil Gold has proven itself well.

Phyllosticosis occurs on leaves and pseudobulbs. Small yellow spots appear, gradually merge and darken. The leaf dries out or rots.

Fusarium blight affects not only leaves and pseudobulbs, but also flowers and buds. The causative agent of the disease is a fungus of the genus Fusarium. Penetrates into the plant through damaged leaves and roots. The spores are very hardy and can live for a long time in external environment, so they can easily be carried on clothes when caring for flowers. It will not be possible to completely eradicate the disease even with the use of fungicides. A sick Dendrobium must be isolated from others, damaged tissues must be trimmed and sections disinfected. In spring or summer, a new substrate and pot are prepared for the flower. The old one must be thrown away.

A fungus of the genus Botryties provokes the development of gray mold, which appears as tiny watery spots on flowers and buds.

Cercospora infection first appears as a yellow spot on the underside of the leaf. Shortly after infection, a yellow area appears on the upper surface of the leaf. As the spots increase in irregular patterns, they become slightly sunken and necrotic, later purplish-brown to purplish-black. These spots continue to grow in both circular and irregular patterns and can eventually cover the entire leaf. New fields of infection continue to turn yellowish, and eventually the most severely infected leaves fall from the plant, especially those where the infection begins near the base of the leaf.

Exceptionally weakened plants are affected by Botrytis. Gray spots form on the leaves and pseudobulbs of the orchid. Causes of the disease: high humidity, low air temperature with poor ventilation, overfeeding with nitrogen, insufficient lighting. The diseased flower must be immediately isolated and treated with a fungicide.

Bacterial rot of dendrobium orchid

Bacterial rots should be treated with a systemic copper-based fungicide, e.g. copper sulfate. Damaged parts must be cut off and removed, and the remaining above-ground parts are treated with fungicide 2-3 times with an interval of 10 days.

This is a relatively new disease and may be introduced from poor quality water, manifests itself as brownish spots, sometimes watery with a yellowish tint. In some genera, bacterial blight is translucent on the leaves, in other words, you can almost see through the leaf, and the color gradually darkens to black. As preventative measure It is best to spray the surrounding area and plants with a fungicide before and during wet weather. To control the disease on the plant itself, remove or cut the infected area from the leaf and treat with a fungicide.

Treatment of Pseudomonas involves killing the bacteria and preventing reinfection by eliminating the localization in environment where bacteria can persist and reinfect the orchid. Localized leaf infection can be treated with hydrogen peroxide (H2O2), although infected leaf tissue underneath the infection can be removed if possible.

Treating surfaces with products containing chlorine will not be superfluous. It is very important to preventively treat neighboring plants, as this disease spreads quickly. It is imperative to treat not only the diseased plant with a fungicide, but also all its neighbors. Necessary environmental control is to increase air movement; plant leaves should not be sprayed for an extended period of time.

Dendrobium pests

Most often Dendrobium is affected spider mite, aphids, thrips, scale insects, mealybugs.

Thrips appear as light spots on the upper surface of the leaves and flowers. They reproduce on the underside of the leaf. Capable of creating entire colonies of bacteria. The leaves acquire a grayish-brown tint and a silvery sheen. If the disease is advanced, they completely lose color and fall off over time.

Scale insects look like brown plaques. They suck cell juices from the leaf. The leaves dry out and fall off.

Whitefly is a midge that lays greenish larvae on inside leaf. They also suck out juices. The leaves turn yellow and fall off. It’s not enough to just wash off the whitefly soap solution. It is important to treat the plant with an insecticide several times to completely remove pests.

What products to use for pest control

Prevention – best way protection, therefore it is necessary to systematically ventilate the room, avoiding cold drafts. When warm, sunny weather sets in, plants can be placed outdoors.

Types of dendrobium with photos and names

There are many types and varieties of Dendrobium, and it is not easy to determine which ones are more beautiful. Let's look at the most popular types.

Dendrobium phalaenopsis or dendrobium two-humped, Australian orchid Dendrobium phalaenopsis

It got its name for its resemblance to the flowers of the phalaenopsis orchid. Leaves up to seventy centimeters, peduncle consists of ten or more large flowers with a diameter of up to nine centimeters, color: from purple to lilac. Blooms for up to two months, November-December. Old pseudobulbs bear flowers several times a year.

Dendrobium densiflorum

This orchid is from the Eastern Himalayas. Dense cascading inflorescences up to thirty centimeters long sometimes bear up to fifty fragrant flowers with bright yellow petals and sepals, a yellow-orange, shaggy fringed lip along the edge. A variety of this species, Dendrobium racemosa, is white or cream in color. Blooms in spring.

Dendrobium nobile or noble Dendrobium nobile

One of the most beautiful views, originating from the Himalayas and Vietnam. Thick glossy pseudobulbs up to 50 cm produce flower stalks with one to three large, up to ten centimeters, bright, fragrant flowers. The petals are white with lilac tips, the lip is cream. Hybrid varieties can bloom several times a year.

Dendrobium moniliforme

A native of Japan, this is a low-growing species of dendrobium with thin, long shoots, narrow leaves and petals. Not demanding of care like other orchids.

Dendrobium beautiful Dendrobium bellatulum

A small orchid from Southeast Asia growing in nature on coniferous trees. White flowers, yellow 2-3 cm in diameter, with a wonderful aroma.

An orchid with thick hanging stems up to thirty centimeters. Acute leaves 7-12 cm, single flowers amethyst-purple, rounded lip with purple-brown spots, densely pubescent. Blooms June-July.

King's Dendrobium Dendrobium kingianum photo

Orchid from Australia. The stems are cylindrical, thick at the bottom, and have wide leaves at the top. Peduncle with five or more fragrant flowers white and pink shades with a spotted lip. Blooms February-March.

Dendrobium: signs and superstitions

Orchids are real talismans for any woman; they help develop talents and engage in creativity. In order for the plant to treat its owner well, it must be properly cared for and prevent disease and wilting. A flower can prolong and even restore youth, health, good mood. It gives attractiveness and enhances all feminine qualities and character traits.

DENDROBIUM(Dendrobium) is one of the largest and most attractive plants of the genus, numbering about 2000 species, the basis for the breeding of natural and artificial hybrids and the selection of orchids for the Asian flower market for bouquets.

Numerous species of the genus "Dendrobium" are widespread in the regions of India, Japan, Southeast Asia, from New Guinea to Australia, and on the islands of Oceania. Their habitat is mainly tropical (humid), rain forests at altitudes up to 2500 m above sea level, almost the limit of reach of water spray. Plants grow near river banks, at the snowy edges of mountain ranges, and on tree trunks. Most members of the genus are epiphytes, but among them there are lithophytes; a number of species settle on rocks.

The sizes of representatives of this genus are extremely diverse - from tiny miniatures with pseudobulbs with a diameter of 1 cm, to solid giants 1-1.5 m high. There are species that have up to 3-5 leaves only on the tops of the pseudobulbs or are completely leafy. There are deciduous species - shedding leaves at the end of the growing season of the first or second year; evergreen - retaining leaves on pseudobulbs for 3-4 years.

Pseudobulbs various types Dendrobiums are different and have different shapes. Some have true pseudobulbs, others have rather thin, reed-like, jointed stems, which, nevertheless, are called pseudobulbs or tuberidia. Each new season produces new growths at the base of mature pseudobulbs. Dendrobium nobilis has erect, cylindrical pseudobulbs; in Dendrobium-Phalaenopsis - elongated-spindle-shaped; the crowded one has short, thick...

Types of dendrobium and its hybrids

The most common hybrids in culture are those based on D. noble (Dendrobium nobile), D. phalaenopsis (Dendrobium phalaenopsis) and D. two-humped (Dendrobium bigibbum). It is sometimes mistakenly thought that Dendrobium phalaenopsis is a hybrid between Dendrobium and Phalaenopsis, but there can be no interbreeding between these orchids. This hybrid was bred on the basis of the species Dendrobium-phalaenopsis.

Dendrobium aloefolia(Dendrobium aloifolium)
An epiphytic species found in Southeast Asia and Indonesia. Thin shoots are densely covered with unusual triangular leaves, more like the leaves of succulents. Short flower stalks develop from the buds of the upper internodes of the shoot, which are devoid of green leaves. The flowers are numerous (at least 10-12) and very small, only 0.2-0.4 cm in diameter. All parts of the flowers are greenish-white. Blooms in summer and autumn, from July to October.

(Dendrobium phalaenopsis Fitzg.)
Numerous hybrids are known in culture, differing in shape, timing and duration of flowering, and flower color. These are one of the few species grown for cutting in industrial scale, thanks to the long peduncle. A large, strong plant of D. phalaenopsis with erect, long, fleshy stems, gradually thickening upward (pseudobulbs), 2-5 leaves. Broadly lanceolate, leathery leaves are located in the upper half, the leaf lifespan is 3-4 years. Inflorescences are multi-flowered. Orchid flowers can be white, bluish, or pink. Most of them bloom for a long time - up to 2 months, some - up to six months (from January to July). You should also know that if there is a lack of lighting, the hybrid dendrobium phalaenopsis blooms poorly, but with a sufficient level of lighting it can bloom all year round...

Dendrobium bihump(Dendrobium bigibbum)
Synonym: Dendrobium phalaenopsis. An epiphytic or lithophytic plant from Northern Australia. Pseudobulbs bear fleshy leaves at the end. Peduncles appear from the buds of the upper internodes, and both young shoots of last year's growth and old leafless pseudobulbs can bloom simultaneously. Each peduncle bears 8-20 bright flowers with a diameter of 3-5 cm, violet-crimson or purple-pink, sometimes white. Blooms from August to December. .

Dendrobium Parisha(Dendrobium parishii Rchb. f.)
The plant is named after the priest Samuel Parish, a collector of orchids. Epiphytic plants with fleshy, jointed stems, thickened at the nodes (pseudobulbs), prostrate or drooping, 30 cm or more in length. The leaves are oblong-lanceolate, slightly incised at the top, up to 12 cm long, the lifespan of which is only one season, after which they fall off. The flowers at the village of Parisha are fragrant, 5-6 cm in diameter, solitary (2-3 each) on leafless stems, light pinkish-purple in color. The flowering period of the Parish dendrobium lasts 1.5-2 weeks (April-June). According to some other data, flowering occurs from February to August, with the peak occurring in May-June.

Dendrobium Lindley(Dendrobium lindleyi)
Named after John Lindley, an English botanist. A miniature epiphytic plant, with numerous short, fusiform, slightly angular pseudobulbs, bearing only one leaf. The leaves are oblong, slightly notched at the apex, leathery, succulent, 6-15 cm long, 1.5 - 2.8 cm wide. The inflorescences are a raceme bearing 7-12 fragrant flowers, about 3 cm in diameter, variable in color, from white to golden yellow, with darker colored lips at the base. Lindley dendrobium blooms from March to July. There is a natural (smaller) variety var. jenkinsii (Wall.) Lindl. (D. jenkinsii Wall.), up to 2.5 cm in diameter and a kidney-shaped, less pubescent lip.

Dendrobium King(Dendrobium kingianum Lindl.)
Homeland - South-Eastern Australia. Forms large colonies, grows on rocks and rocks, plateaus along the coast. A relatively small plant, not exceeding a height of 30 cm, with cylindrical stems, thickened at the bottom and rigid at the top. The leaves on the tips of the shoots, including 3-4, are oblong-lanceolate, 7-8 cm long, 2-3 cm wide. The flowers are small, fragrant, in a few-flowered apical raceme, 1-2 cm in diameter, from very pale pink to bright purple, sometimes almost white. Dendrobium King's flowering can begin in February.

The diversity of this genus is enviable - it includes up to 1,500 of the most diverse species, inhabiting vast territories from northern Japan to New Zealand.

Variety of species

Dendrobium is one of the largest genera of the Orchidaceae family. The name of the genus translates as “living on a tree,” which in itself implies an epiphytic lifestyle. True, some of its varieties are lithophytes, that is, living on rocks; there are also ordinary terrestrial inhabitants. The appearance of dendrobiums also varies greatly: from miniature species group Oxyglossum, several centimeters in size, to large plants of the Nobile group, reaching a meter in height.

And how different the conditions of existence of species are! Some of them come from monsoon subtropical regions - deciduous plants with an obligatory dormant period.

Others, native to tropical forests, evergreens— in their homeland they are accustomed to constant year-round heat and humidity. Therefore, it is impossible to give uniform recommendations for all plants of this genus. Scientists have now developed at least six main groups of these orchids, differing in their conditions of detention.

Main groups

According to the requirements for temperature conditions and dormant periods, most dendrobiums can be divided into two blocks: plants that require a cool dormant period and those that require year-round maintenance in warm conditions. The first block includes the largest number of species. It includes:

Plants that, despite the coolness during the dormant period, require constant humidity of the substrate and air (Dendrobium aggregatum, Dendrobium densiflorum, Dendrobium farmeri, Dendrobium thyrsiflorum).
Deciduous plant species that require dry maintenance immediately after the development of new shoots (Dendrobiumanosmum, Dendrobium parishii, Dendrobium pierardii).
Deciduous plant species that need a gradual transition to a short dry and cool dormant period (Dendrobium nobile, Dendrobium chrysanthum, Dendrobium wardianum).

In the second block there are also plants with different growing conditions:

Those that require a single short dry period immediately after the ripening of new shoots (Dendrobiumgouldii, Dendrobiumstratiotes, Dendrobiumtaurinum, Dendrobiumundulatum).
Those that require significant restriction of watering between the end of growth and the beginning of the development of peduncles, as well as during the period between flowering and the beginning of rapid growth (Dendrobium phalaenopsis, Dendrobium superbiens).

Despite such a huge diversity, two species are most popular indoors, which, by the way, are typical representatives of the two aforementioned different blocks: noble dendrobium (D.nobile) and phalaenopsis (D. phalaenopsis).

Description

Dendrobium nobile or noble is a large orchid up to one meter high with straight, fleshy, jointed stems, thickened at the nodes. The roots are hard and white. The leaves are elongated, leathery, arranged in two rows along the entire shoot and live for about two years.

Peduncles are short, formed in the axils of last year's leafless shoots. As a rule, each bears two to four fragrant flowers, colored in lilac or pink shades. However, in recent decades, a huge number of bred hybrids and varieties based on Dendrobium nobilis have appeared, so their flowers can be of all possible shades: orange, yellow, white, blue, purple and even tricolor. Each shoot lives from 2 to 4 years and then dies. To create Dendrobium nobilis optimal conditions it is necessary to have a good understanding of the patterns of its growth and development throughout the year.

Scheme of seasonal plant development

Dendrobium nobile blooms, as a rule, in winter. It lasts from three weeks natural species up to two months for modern hybrids. After flowering ends, the plant begins active vegetative growth. Young shoots grow from the bases of the pseudobulbs, and roots actively grow. This process usually continues throughout the spring and early summer. By the end of summer, new pseudobulbs begin to form. After the completion of their formation, the plant must necessarily enter a period of rest. Watering and fertilizing are gradually reduced, and the dendrobium is kept at temperatures from +10°C to +14°C for several months, with virtually no watering. During the dormant period, the dendrobium may shed its leaves. You should not be afraid of this, since in nature this species is deciduous. The dormant period ends with the appearance of flower buds on last year's shoots.

Soon the plant blooms and everything repeats again.

Care features: temperature and light

Dendrobium noble is very light-loving. It is necessary to provide him with the most illuminated places in the house. He will greatly appreciate being outside in the summer, but you need to accustom him to the sun very gradually. The color of the leaves is a good indicator: they are bright green in sufficient light. Dark green leaves signal a lack of light, and yellow leaves indicate a critical state of the plant without light. If there is too much bright light, the leaves may turn light green - this means that the plant needs protection from the sun. In winter, even in the midst of the dormant period, the lighting should remain bright. It is possible to use backlighting with fluorescent lamps.

In spring and summer, during the active growing season, the dendrobium will be quite happy with the usual room temperature, but it is only desirable that during the day it be 5-6° higher than at night. The plant cannot tolerate heat; growth and development processes will stop if the temperature exceeds +30°C. In autumn, when dormancy sets in, it is advisable to provide the dendrobium with a cool place with an even greater amplitude of daily temperature fluctuations. Optimal mode: at night +5°+10°С, during the day +15°+20°.

If this temperature regime is observed, watering should be stopped completely. If the plant goes through a dormant period in warmer conditions, then watering should be limited, but not completely removed. After the flower buds appear, the dendrobium can be placed in a warmer room, but the main thing is that it has enough light.

Watering, humidity, nutrition

The plant needs moderate watering. During active growth, you can water every 3-4 days. It is better to use the immersion method, but you should not keep the pot with the plant in water for more than 10 minutes and be sure to drain the water from the pan. By autumn, watering is gradually reduced to once a week, so that during dormancy it is completely stopped if the orchid is kept at a temperature of +10+12°C. In warmer conditions, you can spray the plant occasionally. If the conditions for keeping the dendrobium at moderate temperatures are met, the plant does not need high humidity.

Water for irrigation must be warm and soft.

The plant is fed with a special fertilizer for orchids only during the flowering and growth period. It is better to fertilize every week, but with fertilizer diluted two or even four times the standard concentration.

Description

This flower is not at all a relative of another orchid - phalaenopsis, as you might think when you see its name. It’s just that its flowers and the peduncle itself are shaped a little like the corresponding organs of phalaenopsis. It also has other names - butterfly, two-humped.

It is a large orchid up to 60 cm in height with many fleshy erect shoots - pseudobulbs. Lanceolate, leathery leaves are located in the upper half of the stems. Leaves die off with age, on average they live for 2-3 years. And the older the shoot, the fewer leaves it has. The orchid blooms profusely from 1.5 to 4 months. Peduncles appear from the axils at the top of the shoot. They are quite long, up to 40 cm, can be erect or pendulous, and bear up to 35 flowers, the color of which can be white, pink, purple, yellow.

Phalaenopsis flower cuttings last for about three weeks. That is why it is specially grown on an industrial scale as a cut crop.

Indoor care

Dendrobium phalaenopsis is one of the easiest types of orchids to grow indoors. He needs light that is bright but diffused. In summer, protection from direct sunlight will be required. The temperature should be moderately warm all year round, around +20°-+25°C. In winter, at night, it is desirable to lower it to +15°C, but not less. This can easily be reproduced by placing the pot with the plant on the windowsill, where in winter it is cooler at night than in the rest of the room.

Watering has its own peculiarities. During flowering, watering should be good, every 2-3 days. After flowering ends, watering is somewhat limited (up to once a week), so that the substrate has time to dry out between procedures. As soon as vegetative growth and shoot development begin, watering is again increased to abundant watering, especially in hot weather, given that activation occurs in the summer. When plant growth is complete, around the autumn months, watering is again reduced to once a week until flower buds begin to develop.

Air humidity needs to be increased in winter. Spraying the plant is not advisable. It is better to cover the orchid with sphagnum moss and spray it regularly.

Feeding is the same as for dendrobium nobilis.

Transplantation, reproduction

Orchids are transplanted as rarely as possible, approximately once every 3-4 years.

Dendrobium does not like to have its roots disturbed, so this should only be done in the following cases: when the roots become diseased or the substrate has decomposed to the point of rot. For transplantation, take a pot that is several centimeters larger than the previous one. Dendrobiums are often grown on blocks of cork oak bark or fern roots.

When growing a plant in a pot, you need to buy a special substrate for orchids, or prepare it yourself from pine bark, high peat and charcoal, taken in equal proportions.

Dendrobium propagates by dividing the bush during transplantation, as well as by stem cuttings and apical shoots - children with aerial roots.

Dividing the bush can be done no more often than once every 3-4 years. Each division must have at least three pseudobulbs. The apical shoots are babies; when they appear, you can cut them off every year.

When propagated by stem cuttings, they are cut so that each fragment has several internodes and placed on damp sphagnum moss under a transparent cover. Then the cuttings are placed under bright diffused light at a temperature of +20°+25°C. Within a month, daughter shoots may form at the nodes.