Drilling holes in cabinet furniture parts for hinges. Drilling blind holes in chipboard for hinges. Marking for loop

Master class shows simple technology tie-ins using hand router furniture hinges cup type. Using an inexpensive mortise bit and a homemade template, you can quickly make professional-quality blind holes in your home workshop.

Recesses for cup hinges are often made with a Forstner drill, but the holes rarely come out neat and precise. And the centering pin of the drill easily pops out reverse side furniture board. The use of a manual milling machine allows you to make holes no worse than factory ones.

Tools used:

Drill.
Ballerina drill.
Thin drill.
Fraser.
Copy sleeve.
Straight groove cutter 8-14 mm.
Emery cloth.
Hacksaw.
Clamp.
Calipers.
Square.
Screwdriver.
Awl.

The procedure for making a template

1. Determine the thickness of the plywood for the template: it should be slightly larger than the protruding part of the copy sleeve. You shouldn’t take material that is too thick - the cutter’s reach may not be enough.

2. Measure O.D. copy sleeve.

3. Calculate the size of the cut hole (D) using the formula:

D = D1 + D2 - D3, where:

D1 - required diameter of the recess for the hinge (26, 35 or 40 mm);
D2 - diameter of the copying sleeve;
D3 - cutter caliber.

For example, for a furniture hinge with a 35 mm cup with a 14 mm cutter and a 30 mm sleeve, you will need a template hole with a diameter of 51 mm.

4. Cut a blank from plywood and mark the center of the hole to be drilled according to the drawing.

5. Having placed an unnecessary board, secure the plywood with a clamp and use an awl to mark the drilling point.

6. Exhibiting on the “ballerina” right size, drill a hole.

Advice. The accuracy of the operation affects the quality of the manufactured template. It’s better to try the sliding drill on an unnecessary board and adjust the size.

7. Sandpaper clean the edges of the hole.

8. Cut a strip of plywood 3 cm wide and 14 cm long.

9. Draw a line parallel to the axis of the hole at a distance of 22 mm, marking the location of the edge of the furniture door.

10. According to the markings, secure the thrust strip with glue and nails.

11. Move the center line to the other side of the workpiece to make it easier to determine the location of the loop.

12. The template is ready.

Loop insertion order

1. Mark the furniture door based on the recommended distances between the hinges.

2. Using the stopper against the end, place the template on the door and secure it with a clamp.

3. Place the router in work area, lower the tool body down until the cutter touches the surface of the workpiece and clamp the locking lever.

4. Lower the depth gauge to the position support.

5. Count 11.5 mm on the scale and set the stopper position.

6. Tighten the routing depth adjuster lock.

7. Adjust the parameter using a micrometer screw.

8. Release the locking lever.

9. Rotate the positioning support to set the depth of the first pass.

10. Start the router, press the body and fix the position. Smoothly moving the tool along the surface to be processed, cut out the material, starting from the circle and moving to the center.

11. Once you have completed the passage, release the latch. Rotate the support to the next position and repeat the process until the recess is completely exhausted.

Advice. If there is no sawdust removal system, it is recommended to clean the work area with a vacuum cleaner after each pass to avoid milling defects.

12. Neat seat ready.

13. Insert a loop into the recess, align and mark the location of the screws.

14. Drill for screws, limiting the drilling depth.

15. Screw the hinges with countersunk screws.

After inserting the hinges, proceed to the door hanger, for which mark the location of the mating parts. In our example, the markings for the screws are 37 mm from the end of the chipboard. For other modifications of the fittings, determine the size locally: having assembled the hinge and positioning the front adjustment screw in the middle, lean the door against the side with a gap of 2 mm and place marks through the oblong holes. Complete the work with adjustment operations.

Adjustment screws: 1 - height; 2 - in depth; 3 - in width.

Under the term " loop additive" understand drilling blind hole usually from the back of the facade with a diameter of 35 mm. and depth 12 mm. Such a hole is necessary for attaching a four-hinged hinge to the facade. Of course, if you need to make an additive on a dozen or more facades, then it is better to contact a workshop or perform the additive on specialized equipment. But with a small amount of work, you can add loops using a minimal set of tools. In this tip I will tell you in detail how to do this correctly.

Required tool:

— construction corner (square);
- awl;
- pencil;
- electric drill;
— Fostner drill with a diameter of 35 mm.

If you have never fitted hinges or drilled blind holes before large diameter , then I suspect you won’t find a Fostner drill in your home kit. You can find this one in stores kit.

He Not best quality , but given its price and small amount of work, it is quite suitable for adding loops, and a drill with a diameter of 15 mm. very useful for drilling holes for furniture ties if you decide to do it.

We place the façade on a flat, clean, non-slip surface. At home, this is usually a table or floor. I prefer to work on the floor. In the absence of clamps, it is very convenient to fix the facade with your knee. I always place unnecessary chipboard scraps under the façade so that when the drill goes right through, don't ruin the floor. Usually this doesn’t happen, it’s just a habit, since I make not only blind holes on the floor, but also through ones when I assemble cabinet furniture at home. Be sure to do a test drill in a similar material of the same thickness. These can be scraps of laminated chipboard or a piece of board or furniture panel.

Please note on the shape of the drill, the central part of which protrudes above the cutting edge.

It is very important to make a hole of the required depth (about 12 mm) and don't push the central sharp tip of the drill to the front side of the facade.

Hole marking

Marking holes is a critical operation on which the accuracy of the hinge installation and the correctness of its operation depend. Wrong drilled hole hide this diameter already impossible. Facade thickness should be not less than 16 mm. The drawing below shows dimensions for marking.

It is better to do markup using construction square.

We measure the size (80 mm...150 mm) from the lower or upper edge of the facade (the loops can be in the middle of the facade).

This size not so important in terms of accuracy. It is important that the first and last hinges of the facade are located at a distance of 80 to 150 mm. from the bottom or top sides of the facade, and the fastening of the hinge plate did not get onto the shelves or drawers. Naturally, the shorter the façade, the closer to the top or bottom edge the loop is located.

Unfold the square and measure 22 mm. from the edge. Here is the accuracy of this size very important. For greater accuracy, I prick it with a sharp awl. It's very convenient. Then we insert the sharp tip of a Fostner drill into the punctured hole, and it goes nowhere. does not move.

There may be loops more than two on one façade. Their number depends on the height of the facade and its weight. To calculate the number of loops per facade, you can use the following table.

Drilling holes for the hinge

When drilling, align the sharp tip of the Fostner drill with the previously made hole. We install the drill vertically perpendicular to the surface of the facade.

Since the diameter of the drill is large, it is necessary to drill on low speed(about 1000 rpm), otherwise it is possible burning facade material, overheat drills and drill bits. For the efficiency of sampling the material, by slightly deepening the drill, you can use the drill to perform small circular movements of small amplitude, but keep in mind that when working with laminated chipboard at the edges of the hole in this case chips form. Small chips are not so bad, since they will still be closed with a loop.

Stop from time to time and control hole depth. We drill until the loop completely “sits” in mounting hole. Usually hole depth 12 mm.

Attaching hinges to the facade

Attaching hinges to the facade is the simplest operation. Insert the loop into the drilled hole.

Align platform of the hinge bowl using a square.

Can be leveled immediately all loops along a long line.

We mark the attachment points with an awl in the center holes.

Please note, the length of the screws depends on the thickness of the facade; if the thickness of the facade is less than 18 mm, then use shorter ones self-tapping screws so that they do not go through.

Attached required quantity loops, we proceed to attach the striker plate.

Mounting the strike plate

The designs of the hinges may differ slightly, but basically the striker is attached at a distance of 37 mm. from the edge of the side wall of the cabinet. To make sure of this, we attach the strike plate to the hinge in its extreme position (the screw does not reach the edge of the groove slightly).

We measure the distance between the edge of the facade and the central spine of the holes for attaching the strip. If this distance is about 40 mm, then you have a standard loop and you can safely start marking.

We have decided on mounting depth strike plate.

To determine the height, I usually use façade fitting to the closet. In order not to adjust the height of the facade later, we align the lower edge of the facade with the lower border of the cabinet.

Make a mark on the previously drawn line with a pencil. in the center oval hole, so that in case of inaccuracy, you can slightly adjust the facade in height. If you line up the bottom edge of the front perfectly with the bottom edge of the cabinet, there is usually no need for adjustment.

We remove the façade. We poke the marked holes with an awl and screw the counter plate with self-tapping screws. To make the work easier, I again use soap and do not drill holes for screws.

We screw the other strikers in the same way. We hang the façade and adjust it.

You can read how I decorated the doors using decoupage photos in the material.

Forstner drills

Many people do home renovations with their own hands, including assembling furniture; sometimes doing this is much more profitable than buying ready-made ones in a store. One way or another, you will have to make holes for the hinges. And to make them even, smooth and “correct”, you will need a forstner drill.

These drills are designed for drilling blind holes in soft and hard wood. Thanks to its shape, the hole is flat at the bottom, not a cone, as when drilling simple drills on wood or metal.
Sizes vary from 10mm to 50mm, choose depending on your tasks. For example, for a furniture hinge, you will need a diameter of 35mm.

For a longer service life, sometimes the cutting part is made of hard alloy; its wear resistance is much higher than that of ordinary steel, but it also costs much more (about twice as much).

The maximum hole depth is about 10cm, but if this is not enough for you, you can use an extension for forstner drills. It will allow you to drill a hole of about 30cm. Purchased separately, insert a drill into it and tighten with a hex screw.

When installing connecting elements furniture it is convenient to use a drill where it is used special drill, with which you can evenly select waste material and make a hole to the required depth.

Furniture hinges, attached after processing the base with such a tool, “sit” evenly and securely.

Equipping a drill with a drill suitable for the selected hinges is the main task when working with cabinet furniture doors.

Furniture hinges, attached after processing the base with such a tool, “sit” evenly and securely. It is important to choose the correct drill diameter depending on the parameters of the hinge bowls.

A drill for furniture hinges is a special milling attachment that allows you to work with wooden and plastic bases of sufficient width.

Milling elements should be selected according to specialized stores.

A drill for furniture hinges is a special milling attachment that allows you to work with wooden and plastic bases of sufficient width.

With its help you can do correct hole in a solid panel, MDF, chipboard or laminated chipboard.

You can find both standard and non-standard drills with a quality certificate and a guarantee from famous manufacturers.

The middle spike is installed in the center of the future circle, which is outlined using a prepared gauge, and the rest are made round hole required diameter. Typically the depth of the final cut is about 9mm.

The nozzle is a base with a bridge and three teeth.

Elements that are too cheap are an indicator of a low-quality product, so it’s worth considering options with prices below the market average.

Furniture hinges for which a drill is used are mainly four-hinged. The hole for each is made almost instantly. When working, the drill is held slightly inclined, and not straight, so that the waste material is selected to the desired depth and evenly.

Typically the depth of the final cut is about 9mm.

This cutter is reliable and will last a long time.

Species

When installing hinges on cabinet furniture, two types of drills are used, differing in size:

The hole for each is made almost instantly.

It is important to choose the correct drill diameter depending on the parameters of the hinge bowls.

The diameter is selected in accordance with standard hinges or with a reduced bowl. Each type of fastening has its own drill.

With its help, you can make the desired hole in a solid panel, MDF, chipboard or laminated chipboard.

The nozzle is a base with a bridge and three teeth.

When working, the drill is held slightly inclined, and not straight, so that the waste material is selected to the desired depth and evenly.

The middle spike is installed in the center of the future circle, which is outlined using a prepared gauge.

On milling machines automatic calibration and attachments are used; at home, you cannot do without a special hand-held power tool.

The diameter is selected in accordance with standard hinges or with a reduced bowl.

Each type of fastening has its own drill.

Advantages and Disadvantages

Furniture hinges require precision during installation, so the ability to make exactly the recess that is needed is the main advantage of a Forstner drill. This provides a special stop that prevents penetration into the hole beyond a fixed length. The drill is limited by teeth that do not allow it to deviate from the specified location. The hole turns out perfectly clean, thanks to which the loop cup fits very tightly.

A universal drill with interchangeable attachments is suitable for installing furniture hinges.

At home, you can’t do without a special hand-held power tool.

The only drawback of a Forstner drill when working with solid wood can be its low quality, which is typical for non-factory production. Therefore, it is necessary to choose a product from an official supplier and obtain a guarantee.

Furniture hinges require precision during installation, so it is possible to make exactly such a recess.

Depending on the type of panel, the cutter can become very hot, burning the edges and the material removed from the recess. Therefore, when working with such a base, it is recommended to take breaks to cool the drill, doing 3-4 approaches. This usually happens with MDF panels. When working with laminated chipboard and chipboard, hard alloy elements allow you to make holes for hinges quickly and without much effort.

The drill is limited by teeth that do not allow it to deviate from the specified location.

How to choose?

Equipping a drill with a drill suitable for the selected hinges is the main task when working with cabinet furniture doors. In order for the hole to be precisely adjusted in radius and depth, you need to take a cutter of the required diameter.

The hole turns out perfectly clean, thanks to which the loop cup fits very tightly.

The product must be from an official supplier and obtain a guarantee.

You should select milling elements in specialized stores. There you can find both standard and non-standard drills with a quality certificate and a guarantee from well-known manufacturers. Elements that are too cheap are an indicator of a low-quality product, so it’s worth considering options with prices below the market average. This cutter is reliable and will last a long time.

Depending on the type of panel, the cutter can become very hot, burning the edges and the material removed from the recess.

VIDEO: Forstner drill

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A cutter used for inserting furniture hinges into facades

Hello friends.

Today we will look at cutting tool, with the help of which holes are made for the cups of furniture four-hinged hinges.

In general, this device is correctly called not a cutter, but a Forstner drill.

It consists of a head containing cutting knives(in some versions there may be two, and in others there may be four). In the center of the head there is a special tip for centering the device (it is placed at the point marked for drilling).

The diameter of the cutter head is 35 millimeters (exactly under the landing cup).

The head itself is mounted on a rod designed for attaching this tool to the drill chuck.

This tool is used to make holes in wood, MDF, chipboard, and plastic.

Learn more about how to crash furniture hinges, you can read in this article.

I just want to add that when working with this tool you need to remember two things:

Usually the majority furniture facades has a thickness of 16 millimeters, and the depth of the cutter head (including the tip) is greater than this size.

Therefore, if you are going to make a mounting hole in the facade for the first time, practice first on the remnants of chipboard, and see to what depth you need to drive the tool into the body of the material (after each pass, measure the hole with a real loop so as not to select excess material).

For drilling such holes, for example, I have never used special devices, and drilled them by hand (why unnecessarily complicate a simple process?).

And secondly, when drilling a hole, do not hold the drill strictly vertical to the facade. It is necessary to slightly change the angle of inclination, thereby uniformly selecting the material of the hole being drilled.

With this drilling method, the cutter will not overheat, and the hole will be drilled faster.

That, in principle, is all that concerns this device, which is indispensable in the production of furniture.

That's all, see you later.

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How to make a hole for hinges in chipboard: installation of a furniture hinge

Often a situation arises when it is necessary to install a furniture hinge in chipboard board, for example, when installing a chipboard door. This task involves drilling a hole for a hinge in the chipboard. In the article we will look at what you can use to prepare such a hole and how to install a loop in it.

So, in our case, when making a cabinet from chipboard, a mistake was made - the groove for the hinge was drilled too low, as a result, after installing the hinge in the prepared place, the internal horizontal door cannot open completely. As a result, it is necessary to move the groove slightly upward to eliminate this disadvantage.

Error in choosing the location for the groove for the hinge

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Tools and materials

During the installation of furniture hinges for chipboard, we will need the following tools:

1. Forstner drill with a diameter corresponding to the loop (in our case 35 mm). The drill is a cutter for making a groove for hinges. These drills sometimes come with stops (designed for chipboard thicknesses of 16, 22, 25 mm), which allow you not to worry about how deep you should go;

3. screwdriver.

The materials we need are the hinge itself and the screws for fastening it.

Internal furniture hinge for flush mounting, right angle

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Step 1: How to make a hole for a hinge in chipboard?

First, place a Forstner drill on the drill.

If you have a drill without a stop, then take a test piece of chipboard and drill a groove for the hinge in several steps, each time trying on how far the hinge goes. The essence of this action is to decide how deep the drill needs to be so as not to drill through hole and so that the loop fits entirely into the groove.

Test drilling

Trying on a loop

Now that we've got the hang of it, it's time to tackle the door itself. First, let's mark the center of the hole. This is where we will install the center of the drill.

Marking the hole for the hinge

If you have a hinge torn out of a chipboard and you don’t know what to do, then the easiest option to repair the torn hinge is to move the hinge, i.e. drill a new hole, since often the places where the hinge is attached with screws turn into dust and no longer hold the door properly. The remaining old hole can be filled or sealed.

So let's start drilling.