What can be done from an old compressor. DIY ways to improve a compressor from an old refrigerator. Several operating modes can be distinguished

It is not necessary to buy a compressor for painting work or inflating wheels - you can make it yourself from used parts and assemblies removed from old technology.

We will tell you about structures that are assembled from scrap materials.

In order to make a compressor from used parts and assemblies, you need to be well prepared: study the diagram, find it on the farm or buy some additional parts. Let's consider several possible options for independently designing an air compressor.

Air compressor made from refrigerator and fire extinguisher parts

This unit operates almost silently. Let's look at the diagram of the future design and make a list necessary components and details.

1 - tube for filling oil; 2 - starting relay; 3 - compressor; 4 - copper tubes; 5 - hoses; 6 - diesel filter; 7 - gasoline filter; 8 - air inlet; 9 - pressure switch; 10 - cross; 11 - safety valve; 12 - tee; 13 - receiver from a fire extinguisher; 14 - pressure reducer with pressure gauge; 15 - moisture-oil trap; 16 - air inlet

Necessary parts, materials and tools

The main elements taken are: a motor-compressor from a refrigerator ( better production USSR) and a fire extinguisher cylinder, which will be used as a receiver. If they are not available, then you can look for a compressor from a non-working refrigerator at repair shops or at metal collection points. A fire extinguisher can be purchased on the secondary market or you can involve friends in the search, who at work may have decommissioned fire extinguisher, fire extinguisher, fire extinguisher for 10 liters. The fire extinguisher cylinder must be emptied safely.

In addition you will need:

pressure gauge (as for a pump, water heater);
diesel filter;
filter for a gasoline engine;
pressure switch;
electric toggle switch;
pressure regulator (reducer) with pressure gauge;
reinforced hose;
water pipes, tees, adapters, fittings + clamps, hardware;
materials for creating a frame - metal or wood + furniture wheels;
safety valve (to relieve overpressure);
self-closing air inlet (for connection, for example, to an airbrush).

Another viable receiver came from a tubeless car wheel. An extremely budget-friendly, although not very productive model.

Wheel receiver

We invite you to watch a video about this experience from the author of the design.

It is not necessary to buy a compressor for painting work or inflating wheels - you can make it yourself from used parts and assemblies removed from old equipment. We will tell you about structures that are assembled from scrap materials.

Air compressor made from refrigerator and fire extinguisher parts

This unit operates almost silently. Let's look at the diagram of the future design and make a list of the necessary components and parts.

1 — tube for filling oil; 2 - starting relay; 3 - compressor; 4 - copper tubes; 5 — hoses; 6 — diesel filter; 7 — gasoline filter; 8 — air inlet; 9 - pressure switch; 10 — cross; 11 - safety valve; 12 - tee; 13 — receiver from a fire extinguisher; 14 — pressure reducer with pressure gauge; 15 — moisture-oil trap; 16 — pneumatic socket

Necessary parts, materials and tools

The main elements taken are: a motor-compressor from a refrigerator (preferably made in the USSR) and a fire extinguisher cylinder, which will be used as a receiver. If they are not available, then you can look for a compressor from a non-working refrigerator at repair shops or at metal collection points. A fire extinguisher can be purchased on the secondary market or you can involve friends in the search, who at work may have decommissioned fire extinguisher, fire extinguisher, fire extinguisher for 10 liters. The fire extinguisher cylinder must be emptied safely.

In addition you will need:

pressure gauge (as for a pump, water heater);
diesel filter;
filter for a gasoline engine;
pressure switch;
electric toggle switch;
pressure regulator (reducer) with pressure gauge;
reinforced hose;
water pipes, tees, adapters, fittings + clamps, hardware;
materials for creating a frame - metal or wood + furniture wheels;
safety valve (to relieve excess pressure);
self-closing air inlet (for connection, for example, to an airbrush).

Another viable receiver came from a tubeless car wheel. An extremely budget-friendly, although not very productive model.

Wheel receiver

We invite you to watch a video about this experience from the author of the design.

The idea of making an air compressor for working with an airbrush based on a refrigerator (hereinafter referred to as the “device”) came to mind a long time ago, but it took about a year to bring it to life.

The idea is attractive because this device gives low level noise (noise at the level of a regular refrigerator), allowing you to work late in the evening (early at night), since the use of an oil-free Chinese compressor, which produces 94 dB of noise, somehow became annoying.

First of all, to implement the idea, a compressor was required. This unit was purchased secondhand as part of a working Biryusa refrigerator. But then it turned out that the refrigerator itself was larger in volume than the one in the country house. Therefore, the “newly acquired” one went to the dacha, and the compressor unit itself was mercilessly removed from the “dacha”. Here it is necessary to add that the compressor was attached to the refrigerator by means of a suspension on springs to a rigid plate, so I decided to keep this design and use it entirely in the manufacture of the device.

Then an old OU-5 fire extinguisher was found in the garage, which later became a receiver.
Conceptually, it was assumed that this device would be stationary, so I decided to make a rigid spatial structure for it from corners (of which I collected exactly the required amount at the dacha).

With such a set of basic technical requirements and the actual production of the device began. The length of the device was determined by the size of the plate supporting the compressor. The width was chosen arbitrarily, taking into account the placement of the receiver, compressor and the rest of the body kit.
The device diagram is ordinary: compressor, filter, check valve, receiver, pressure switch, pressure regulator, filter, quick connector.
After cleaning the corners from rust and dirt, they were welded as carefully as possible using household welding at the dacha. After I made the frame, I tried on the receiver and marked the insertion point for the air inlet and the condensate drain point.

I drilled two holes in the receiver with a diameter of 9.00 mm and welded 1/2" threaded fittings. Then I roughly figured out how the receiver would be placed and welded supports to secure it. The receiver was placed at an angle of 5-10 degrees, to allow condensation to accumulate in one place. I did the same for attaching the compressor and ended up with a very heavy one (about 25 kg including the compressor and receiver) and powerful design. But this has its own plus - it is the complete absence of vibration, both on the body and on the concrete floor where he stands.

I changed the oil in the compressor without bothering too much about filling it with 250 g. Lukoil semi-synthetics 10 W-40. To replace it, I carefully opened the third (oil) tube in the compressor. He drained the honey through it and poured the honey through it. syringe (volume 20 ml). I screwed a self-tapping screw onto the sealant into the tube. I filled in 300 ml of oil.
The receiver was secured with two strips cut from scraps of roofing iron. Pieces of watering hose, cut lengthwise, were used as gaskets.
Next came the turn of the automation and air supply system. I decided not to throw away the original tee (separator) from the fire extinguisher, especially since the fire extinguisher itself uses tapered thread. Having disassembled the tee and removed the shut-off valve from it, I plugged the hole in the valve stem with a bolt, having previously cut the thread with a tap.
Now there are two “live” holes left in the tee - from safety valve and CO2 nebulizer tubes. A pressure switch, type RDM-5, was very easily screwed onto the safety valve fitting (removing it naturally). But I had to struggle with the hole for the spray tube. Not a single standard pipe thread fit this hole, therefore, after going through everything possible options, I had to go to the turner at the taxi depot. For 200 rubles, the turner made an adapter from a steel blank for a standard pipe thread 1/2". Well, then everything flowed like clockwork. Half a day of searching in stores and the necessary adapters, tees, pressure regulator, pressure gauge, check valve, automobile gasoline filters (VAZ 06, 09), and a fine filter were purchased for air, etc. I bought a pressure gauge with a “distinct” scale to make it easier to visually control the presence of air in the receiver. It should be noted that the pressure switch according to the passport is designed for operation on water, so I decided to play it safe and disassembled the relay and installed the working chamber on a sealant. Just in case, I painted the frame with oil paint that was on hand.

It took a total of two hours to assemble the device. All threaded connections connected using Tangit-Unilok plumbing thread. There is no point in describing what is screwed to what and in what sequence, because... Each device is manufactured individually and the assembly algorithm is determined by itself. The pressure switch was adjusted to turn off at 3.5 atm, turn on at 1.5 atm. No matter how hard I tried to reduce the value of the setpoint limits, nothing worked.

After assembly, I started pressing. Here my first disappointment awaited me. The pressure in the receiver decreased by approximately 0.5 kgf/cm2 per minute. I found leaks by washing. It turned out that it was leaking from under the fittings welded to the receiver (however, I am not a professional welder). A solution was found immediately - cold welding. After applying and letting it sit for 24 hours, I tried it again. Holds pressure. HOORAY. But there is still a leak from the pressure regulator. “It goes away” about 0.1 kgf/cm2 in 20 minutes. I thought about it and decided not to “treat” the device anymore, since this loss of air can be neglected. Such pressure losses when painting are not important to me.

Test painting showed that there was no oil in the air, the paint applied smoothly, both acrylic and enamel. And the most important thing is silence when the device operates. Q.E.D.

The new device fits seamlessly under the table in the workshop. After a couple of days of testing, I decided to check for condensation in the receiver. When opening ball valve, 20 grams of oil were spat out with a whistle. This was the second disappointment. I thought about it and went to read literature. After reading various articles and thinking logically, I realized one thing: the compressor will spit out oil anyway, because in the refrigerator the system is closed, but in my device it is not. Therefore, I will periodically pour oil into it, approximately in the proportions “as much as I spit out, I poured in.” And people also write that the compressor is motor oil won't last long. Well, we'll wait and see.
Blown out with a new device

Often an old, unused refrigerator still has a fully functional compressor. It can be slightly modernized to result in a full-fledged installation suitable for use for various purposes - most often they are used for painting, pumping car tires, performing airbrushing or powering pneumatic devices. Let's look at how to make a compressor with your own hands from an old refrigerator.

Parts and tools needed to make a compressor

To make a refrigerator compressor with your own hands, you will need the following tools:

Welding machine (inverter).
Electric drill, screwdriver.
Drill, engraving mini-drill with a set of cutters.
A brush with metal bristles to remove rust.
Pliers, set wrenches, adjustable wrench.

From the materials you need to prepare:

Steel plates 2–3 mm thick and 3–4 cm wide.
Two supports on wheels.
1/4 inch adapter.
Blind half-inch coupling with internal thread.
Check valve and connector for it.
Two half-inch copper couplings for a copper pipe.
Clamping bolts, nuts, other fasteners, fum tape.

During the work process, it may be necessary to use other tools or materials. So, instead of a propane cylinder, a fire extinguisher body or a ready-made one can be used car receiver. Some craftsmen suggest installing plastic containers, but you should refrain from doing so, since refrigerator compressors can create high blood pressure, capable of tearing such a receiver.

The process of making a compressor from a refrigerator

Manufacturing technology homemade compressor from the refrigerator consists of several stages.

Receiver

To make a compressor from a refrigerator, you need a high-quality receiver. To do this, use a metal container with a sealed outlet - empty gas cylinder for 11 liters. First of all, you need to get rid of the remaining gas mixture in the cylinder, for which the inside is thoroughly washed with water. Then a 1/4-inch adapter is applied to the hole in the end and welded end-to-end with maximum seam tightness. The finished adapter should be plugged with a bolt.

At the bottom of the cylinder, supports with wheels are installed by welding. For stability, a support is welded in the upper part, ensuring horizontal position. The result is a cylinder resting on three points (two wheels and a support bracket), equipped with an outlet fitting.

Compressor installation

The next step is to install the compressor on the receiver. To do this, you will need to weld two mounting brackets on top of the horizontally located cylinder. The distance between them corresponds to the position of the mounting holes on the compressor, which will be secured to the brackets with clamping bolts. To ensure silent operation, which is characteristic of homemade compressor units made from old refrigerators, rubber gaskets should be installed between the device body and the brackets.

Important! Before installing the compressor, you need to replace the oil inside it with another one that is neutral to the action of air (Lukoil 10 W-40 is suitable). The oil is changed through a sealed outlet, which should then be sealed again. To prevent oil from entering the air, it is necessary to install a filter at the outlet of the compressor.

Check valve and adapter for equipment

Installation of check valves - diagram

The next stage in the manufacture of a homemade compressor is the installation of a check valve and an adapter for connecting control equipment. To do this, you will need to drill the appropriate holes in the receiver body - it is more convenient to place the check valve on the side, and for the equipment - on top, near the compressor.

A coupling with an internal thread, the same as that of a check valve, is welded into the receiver body. It is necessary to plug the pressure relief hole on it, since a similar device is available in the control unit taken from an old refrigerator.

The hole is plugged with a screw, for which a thread is pre-cut. The screw is wrapped with fum tape and screwed tightly into the hole. The check valve is then connected to the compressor outlet using a copper half-inch coupling connector. The ends of the tubes with pre-inserted coupling parts are flared, after which the coupling is tightly connected.

Installation of control equipment

It is best to use the adjustment equipment that was installed on the refrigerator complete with the compressor. They fit together optimally. The control assembly usually includes a pressure switch, pressure relief valves, pressure gauges and several regulators.

First, a pressure switch is installed. This is a black box with a pressure gauge, it is connected through an extension cord with external thread to the outlet at the top of the cylinder next to the compressor. Then all other parts of the assembly are connected to the relay.

Control equipment on the compressor

Electrical connection

The compressor power wires from the refrigerator are connected to the corresponding contacts of the pressure switch. To do this, you need to remove the cover from the relay, after which the contacts will become visible. The three-core compressor wire (with grounding) is connected to the corresponding contacts (they are marked with special markings), and the power wire equipped with a plug for the power outlet is connected in a similar way. The strength of the connection of the contacts is checked, the relay cover is installed in place.

Checking the operation of a homemade compressor

After connecting all the parts and connecting the power wires, a test run is performed and the operating mode is adjusted. The compressor is connected to the network, and using the adjusting assembly, the mode of turning the device on/off is adjusted when a certain pressure is reached.

It is not recommended to install immediately high values, since leaks may be detected welded joint on one of the fittings. Defects found must be eliminated, for which the device is disconnected from the network, the pressure accumulated during the test run is released, and the detected defects are eliminated. After this, the device is reconnected to the network and put into operation.

Portable air compressor, low noise, consuming relatively little electricity - this is probably the dream of every owner of a private house, cottage, garage, or small business. Well, it’s quite possible to make a mobile compressed air installation yourself, for example, by taking part of the equipment from an old household refrigerator. Each refrigeration unit has a built-in compressor. If you remove this part and add accessories, you will get an air compressor from a refrigerator compressor.

Before deciding to implement an idea, it is advisable to decide exactly: is this idea really worth taking on? Let's look at a few important aspects to the topic in order to help future designers make the right decision:

not intended for use with air.
The compressor performance of domestic refrigerators is low.
To lubricate the mechanism refrigeration compressors special oil is required.

The corresponding conclusions follow from this. When working with air, the device will not be able to function for a long time without good cooling.

When a refrigeration compressor operates with freon, the housing is cooled due to other temperature parameters of the refrigerant.

Compression air mixture refrigeration compressor occurs under completely different temperature conditions, which will lead to an increase operating temperature by an order of magnitude. Ultimately, without good cooling, the compressor will simply burn out.

A burnt-out refrigerator compressor as a result of a violation of technological operating conditions. The same fate awaits the device that is supposed to be used in the project, if you do not use special means protection

The low performance of home refrigeration units is another factor limiting the use of such equipment for producing compressed air.

For example, to pump a 5-liter receiver to a pressure of 5-7 atm, it will take at least 15-20 minutes of operation of the refrigeration unit.

Meanwhile, this volume of air is not enough even to inflate a car tire or spray paint one wall in one sitting. small room garage.

Poor performance of the refrigerator system is common for such equipment. But under the air compression system, especially with great value flow rate, a high-performance system is required

Finally one more important factor– compressor oil. To lubricate the mechanism of refrigeration compressors, a special freon oil is used, the properties of which change dramatically in contact with air.

If you do not change the oil to another type of lubricant that is structurally friendly to air, after a certain time the compressor mechanism will simply “close up” due to rapid wear of parts.

DIY design

So, if, despite all the noted nuances, the decision is made to assemble from the refrigerator, you can proceed directly to action.

Approximately this design should result from the implementation of the conceived idea. By appearance no complaints. The device looks more than flawless and quite impressive

The first step is to collect all the necessary parts of the project equipment:

Air receiver.
Oil separator.
Differential pressure switch.
Copper tube.
Inlet air filter.
Shut-off control and control valves.

A compressed air cylinder from a KAMAZ vehicle is optimally suited for the air receiver. The five-liter capacity is suitable for a domestic environment overall dimensions and meets the requirements for pressure vessels.

It is best to equip a home compressor made from a refrigerator with one of the cylinders that are used on KAMAZ truck tractors. These vessels comply with Rostechnadzor standards

An oil separator design option that is recommended for use as part of the installation. For reliable operation systems require high-quality separation of oil from air

A differential pressure switch (for example, from the RT series) is used from among those used in industrial refrigeration units.

Copper tube is available in sufficient quantity in the design of the condenser of a domestic refrigerator. Its diameter matches the outlet pipe of the refrigerator compressor.

The air filter at the compressor inlet can be easily made from any suitable plastic container, placing a regular foam sponge inside. Shut-off control and control valves - valves, check valves, pressure gauges - can be bought in the store.

Air unit assembly

An air receiver (for example, an air cylinder from a KAMAZ vehicle) is mounted on a chassis made of a metal corner. Additionally, it is recommended to install a pair of wheels on the chassis for ease of movement, a support “leg” and a handle.

A platform for installing a refrigerator compressor and a bracket for mounting a differential pressure switch are fixed above the upper area of the cylinder. An oil separator is attached to the side of the receiver, through a clamp and an outlet fitting.

DIY oil separator. For fastening, one clamp with a bracket is used on the left side of the separator, and the right part is attached to the fitting of the receiver inlet pipe

An air filter must be installed on the inlet pipe of the refrigerator compressor. An air filter is required to reduce the entry of foreign particles present in the air into the system.

Air filter easy to make from any plastic container by attaching it through an angle threaded transition to the inlet pipe.

Air filter on the inlet pipe of the unit. It’s easy to make one with your own hands from a suitable plastic containers. There is a foam sponge inside the filter housing

The outlet pipe of the compressor is connected through a compensation copper tube-heat exchanger to the inlet fitting of the separator (oil separator). The outlet pipe of the separator is connected to the receiver through an angle adapter.

A tee and (compressed air outlet) are installed at the outlet of the receiver. Through the tee taps, the receiver output is additionally communicated copper tubes with differential relay and pressure gauge. A safety valve is also installed there.

Electrical part and principle of operation

The electrical circuit diagram actually remains untouched, with the exception of minor changes. That is, the compressor from the refrigerator was powered from the AC mains through the starting relay, so this option is left unchanged.

Another question is that the circuit can be slightly modernized. For example, supplement it with a switch mounted on the case assembled installation. Still, this option is more convenient than periodically plugging and unplugging the plug from the socket every time you use the device in action.

This design does not provide a separate switch electrical supply. The compressor is connected to the network with a two-wire cord with a plug through the contact group of the pressure switch

Also, the voltage supply circuit to the compressor must be configured taking into account the inclusion of the contact group of the differential pressure switch.

Due to this configuration, the device will turn off immediately after reaching the set air pressure limit. That's all. The air compressor from the refrigerator can be considered done.

Some notes on the project

A fire extinguisher for a receiver for a home compressed air unit must be selected taking into account a three-fold pressure reserve. Powder OT canister is not the best choice

Fire extinguisher cylinders are often used as a receiver for homemade projects. Meanwhile, the containers of powder fire extinguishers have a low limit of the maximum permissible operating pressure (8-12 atm.).

In addition, such vessels are subject to mandatory inspection after a certain period of time by the relevant authorities. If you still take a fire extinguisher vessel under the receiver, then vessels from carbon dioxide systems can be considered an acceptable option.

Finally, the most important point. Such designs, in fact, should be registered with Rostechnadzor, since the assembly contains a vessel operating under a pressure of more than 0.07 MPa (operating pressure of the installation is 10 atm.).

Owners of unregistered homemade air compressors may well be held accountable (administrative and even criminal), as soon as something extraordinary happens during the operation of the equipment that threatens the life and health of people.

So you should think a thousand times before trying to assemble an air compressor from a refrigerator compressor with your own hands.