When planning to make a heated floor in a house on the ground, it is advisable to make the structure in two stages: first pour a rough screed onto the lower layers, and only after it has matured, lay all the other layers on it.

The fact is that the soil and, accordingly, all the layers above it can sag. Even if the soil is compacted, even if it is compacted, there will be movement. He lay simply, without any load. If you lay a heated floor pie on top, and it weighs a lot, subsidence will begin and cracks will appear. It may even tear the elements of the heated floor. Then all the money will be thrown away. That’s why experts advise first making a subfloor according to all the rules, and then laying a water floor on top. It's much more reliable this way.

Yes, many have a heated floor on the ground without a screed, and nothing sags. But not for everyone and not always. So think carefully. A warm concrete floor on the ground will be more reliable with a rough screed. If you still decide to do without this layer, install at least two reinforcing frames: the first under the heat insulator, and the second in the screed. Then, with careful compaction, everything can stand quite well.

First of all, we determine the level to which the soil needs to be removed. The soil must be removed. If the layer of humus or plant residues is not removed, they will begin to decompose and “smell.” Therefore, whether you make a subfloor or not, you still need to remove everything unnecessary. Moreover, the fertile layer is usually the loosest, and it will definitely settle and can pull all the layers above it with it. The underlying rocks are denser, firstly because they experience greater loads, and secondly, because there are fewer living creatures and microorganisms living there.

The entire pie of a heated floor on the ground can take 20 cm or more (in some regions - much more). Therefore, you need to start marking from the zero level - where your finished floor will be located. You mark it, and then consider how much you need to go deeper. It is advisable to mark the level of each layer: then it will be easier to navigate.

The correct design of a heated floor on the ground is as follows:

Take off fertile soil, remove all debris and stones. Level and compact the remaining soil. This must be done very carefully and verified using a level. This is the basis for all subsequent materials.
A layer of compacted sand (level). Any sand can be used for filling. The main thing is to compact it well and level it again.
A layer of expanded clay or crushed stone (crushed stone is preferable due to lower thermal conductivity). Fraction - small or medium. We compact it for a long time and persistently until it becomes almost a monolith.
Pre-screed. There are two options:
- Sprinkle crushed stone and sand with a liquid solution (sand + cement in a ratio of 2:1).
- Pour in the rough screed. The desired thickness of this layer is 5-7 cm. And for reliability, lay a reinforcing mesh made of 3 mm metal wire, with a cell of 10*10 cm. This subfloor is more reliable. It will withstand significant loads.
After everything has set and the concrete has hardened, a layer of waterproofing is laid. If the soil is dry, it is usually a plastic film, preferably 200 mn in two layers.
Expanded polystyrene boards (glue the joints with tape so that the solution does not flow).
A layer of metallized waterproofing (not foil, but metallized).
The mounting system for the heated floor and the heating tubes, cables, etc.
Heated floor screed, preferably reinforced.

The thickness of all layers of the underfloor heating layer on the ground depends on the region: the colder, the greater. In the south it can be 2-5 cm, but the further north you go, the more massive the layers are required. Each of them is well compacted and leveled. You can use manual tampers, but mechanical ones are much more effective.

Particular attention should be paid to the heat insulator. It is recommended to use polystyrene foam in slabs, its density not lower than 35 kg/m 3. For northern regions it can be 10 cm or more. If the thickness of the thermal insulation is large (extruded polystyrene foam), it is advisable to use two layers of slabs. And lay them so that the seams of the bottom layer overlap the slab lying on top. Tape the joints of each layer with tape.

To protect against dampness, do not forget to carry out waterproofing work on the foundation before starting all work. It is also important not to forget to isolate the foundation from the entire heated floor structure. You need to put the same polystyrene foam in slabs around the perimeter. In general, the idea for hydro- and thermal insulation is this: to reduce heat loss, you need to insulate your floor from everything except the air in the room. Then the heating will be economical and the rooms will be warm.

Choice of thermal insulation - key point in the organization of heated floors

Process technology at high groundwater levels

If groundwater is located high, correct sequence layers aren't everything. We need to drain the water somehow.

If the depth of laying the heated floor layers is lower than the ground water level, drainage is necessary. For it, at least 30 cm below the required level, we make a water drainage system. It is advisable to pour river sand, but such volumes cost a lot, so you can use other rocks, but not peat or black soil. As an option - excavated soil mixed with crushed stone.

When laying thermal insulation boards their joints need to be taped to prevent the solution from leaking into the cracks

The selected material is poured in layers of 10 cm, each of which is compacted and spilled with water. There are usually three layers, but more are possible. We lay a layer of geotextile on compacted sand or soil with crushed stone. This is a modern material that will allow water to pass down and prevent mixing different materials. It is not damaged by insects and animals and has high tensile strength. Also, geotextiles additionally level out the mechanical loads that the floor will experience.

At the same stage, you need to simultaneously take care of the hydro- and thermal insulation of the floor from the foundation. Can be used for these purposes bitumen mastic or other modern and reliable waterproofing materials and impregnations. And the thermal insulation is standard: the inner perimeter of the foundation is lined with expanded polystyrene slabs.

Then there are layers of sand and crushed stone, and a rough screed is poured onto them. In this case, it is undesirable to spill liquid cement-sand composition. A rough screed is needed for reliability. After it has dried, a layer of waterproofing should be applied. If the groundwater level is high, it is better to use not polyethylene, but fused waterproofing or polymer membranes. They are more reliable, although they are more expensive.

Next, all the layers, as recommended earlier: a heat insulator, a water barrier with a metallized coating, and fasteners with (or, for example). All this is covered with a metal reinforcing mesh and filled with another layer of mortar. And then - depending on the one used.

Results

A heated floor in a house on the ground is a rather complex design. In order for it to be reliable, a rough screed is necessary. If for some reason it is not possible to make a screed, you can, as a last resort, get by by compacting the layers.

The installation of heated floors on the ground allows you to obtain a reliable and durable floor covering. There are several design options, the choice is made based on the following factors:

Groundwater - level of occurrence;
Availability of coolant;
Operating loads.

Floor design

If the waters lie above two meters, then concrete floor construction on the ground, will consist of a sand-crushed stone mixture covered with polyethylene, on top of which a rough screed is made, covered with roofing felt and insulation. The top layers are represented by a finishing screed reinforced with mesh and a similar coating. If observed low level groundwater (> 2 meters), then the design undergoes changes. After preliminary compaction of the soil, a fill is made, which consists of a sand-crushed stone mixture, additionally bonded with mortar. Insulation is laid on top, sealed with a finishing screed and the same coating.

Basic Pie Elements

The design is called concrete floor pie on the ground, it is its arrangement that needs to be given special attention. The soil that serves as the basis for the floor covering should be thoroughly compacted. There are several layers of bedding made of crushed stone and sand, each of them has a thickness of 10 cm.

Attention! The bedding will protect the coating from capillary moisture.

It is necessary to use coarse crushed stone (50mm fraction), as well as river sand, and carefully compact the layers of bedding.

The composition of the so-called “pie”

The rough screed is made on top of the bedding, it is placed on the film and has a thickness of 7 cm, its reinforcement is encouraged. Here it is necessary to use fine crushed stone (fraction 10mm) and the same river sand. If present, low lying groundwater, then the filling is done. The bedding is poured with a specially prepared solution, and there is no need to use polyethylene. Waterproofing concrete floor on the ground is done using roofing felt laid in two layers. The floor insulation is made of polystyrene foam; the density of this material must be at least 30 kg/m 3 .

Special attention is given to the finishing screed; it has a thickness of up to 10 cm. Fine crushed stone (10mm fraction) and river sand are used here; this layer must be reinforced, since there will be a finishing coating on top of it.

Technology for laying floors on the ground

The reliability and durability of flooring depends on adherence to technology. Initially, the base is leveled; it is necessary to determine the zero level to which the concrete will be poured. The surface is cleaned, and then the soil is thoroughly compacted, thickness of concrete floor on the ground is 30 cm, therefore, it is necessary to remove the same layer of earth. Now you can fill in the gravel, it is filled with water and compacted, sand is poured on top of it, and then crushed stone. Having compacted the base, it is again covered with a layer of sand, which is leveled and compacted.

Attention! Multi-layer base, necessarily leveled in horizontal plane.

Waterproofing and thermal insulation

Now you can arrange the waterproofing, first of all the film is laid down, it is important that its thickness is at least 200 microns. The material is laid out along the entire perimeter, its edges are brought out above the zero level, the sheets are laid overlapping, and the joints are sealed with tape. The thermal insulation layer can be made from several materials:

Expanded clay;
Foam;
Basalt wool;
Cork;
Moisture resistant plywood.

In order for the base to gain additional strength, it must be reinforced; this can be done using a metal mesh. It is necessary to lay the frame on a three-centimeter stand.

Pouring the concrete base

Pouring concrete requires precision; to avoid trouble, guides should be laid. The room is divided into equal sections (2 meters wide), which are divided using guide bars, the height of which does not exceed the zero level. The guides are fixed with cement mortar.

We must not forget about the formwork, which is mounted between the guides, which makes it possible to make “maps” that are subsequently filled with concrete mortar. The formwork is formed from plywood, which has increased moisture resistance. The formwork is leveled in the horizontal plane, in accordance with the zero level, the plywood elements are processed special composition, allowing in the future to quickly remove them from the mixture after pouring.

Pouring is carried out in several passes, by preparing concrete from cement with sand, water and crushed stone (proportion 1: 2: 0.5: 4), you can make a monolithic, reliable structure. The process begins from the corner of the room, the mixture is leveled manually with shovels, and the coating is compacted with a vibrator.

When everything is ready, you can level the base; for this, a rule is used to remove excess mixture. The formwork elements are removed, and concrete mixture is added to the voids. The floor covering is covered with polyethylene and left in this state for 30 days, it is regularly moistened with liquid. The finishing touch is the screed; a self-leveling mixture is purchased for it, which straightens out according to the rule.

Warm concrete floor on the ground ready, all that remains is to lay the flooring, for which you can use any materials, from parquet to linoleum and karmic tiles. Follow the technology strictly to get reliable coverage.

How to properly lay heated floors on the ground floor, in a log house or in a building that you will only use as temporary housing, on the ground? To ensure high strength and reliability of the structure, as well as to prevent soil subsidence and reduce heat loss, it is necessary to carry out work in two main stages. On the first one, the subfloor is poured. After this, you should wait for the screed to fully mature and lay the so-called heated floor cake.

Filling the rough screed

Pouring a rough screed is only a preparatory stage, however, all the work listed below should be performed with the highest possible quality. Otherwise, concrete floors laid on the ground are unlikely to perform to your requirements and provide adequate heating. The following step-by-step instructions will help eliminate any problems in the future:

First, we mark the ground and draw a control line on the wall surfaces along the entire perimeter of the room. It will help regulate the height of each layer of screed or bedding;
the next stage of installing a floor on the ground is carefully leveling the soil and compacting it;
waterproofing, for which either durable polyethylene film or roofing felt can be used;
preparing the base for the first layer of insulation, making a sand cushion, the height of which should not exceed 2-2.5 centimeters;
laying expanded clay pillows. It is this material that is used as insulation when laying floors on the ground;
installation of beacons, which make it possible to pour a perfectly even screed. They are fixed to a cement-sand mortar made with the addition of a small amount of ceramic tile adhesive;
pouring and leveling the subfloor. It is best to make it reinforced with metal mesh, and for concrete mortar use exclusively river sand and fine crushed stone.

After this, it is better to wait 25-28 days until the screed is completely matured. But if this is not possible, you can begin installing a heated floor on the ground within a week.

Warm floor pie: description of each layer

As soon as the rough screed acquires the necessary strength characteristics, we begin laying the floors on the ground in the following sequence:

a membrane or a special waterproofing film is placed directly on the concrete surface. It serves to prevent the absorption of moisture by concrete and its gradual destruction under its influence. The waterproofing layer is laid overlapping and the joints are secured with masking tape;
Insulation is laid on top of the waterproofing. It is better to use polystyrene foam boards. The joints between them are also taped, which prevents the solution from seeping into the lower layers;
metallized waterproofing is laid, which not only provides protection from moisture, but also has high strength to withstand heavy loads;
fastening elements are installed, as well as heating cables, pipes, infrared film - those materials that you have chosen to equip the floors heating the room;
is installed necessary equipment– thermostats, sensors, etc.;
the finishing screed is poured. When installing floors on the ground, it must also be reinforced (to increase strength, galvanized steel mesh is used, which can withstand the aggressive effects of concrete).

To fill the finishing screed, it is best to use so-called semi-dry compositions, which use plasticizers and other additives that allow:

create a perfectly flat surface with minimal effort even when laying a heated floor on the ground;
minimize the risk of concrete absorbing moisture;
increase the heat transfer of the structure due to the fact that the coating is homogeneous and has virtually no voids;
reduce the drying time of the screed by using a small amount of water in the process of making the solution.

Some semi-dry mortars make it possible to lay the floor covering literally a week after pouring the finishing screed. However, if you don’t have much time to rush, it makes sense to wait 28 days until it is completely ripe.

Many people wonder how to install a warm water floor on the ground? Having step-by-step instructions for preparing and installing the entire system, the process is not so complicated. Below is brief information about what a heated floor on the ground is, what you need and how to install it.

Installation of heating water structure on the ground will become a special point in reducing the cost of constructing the foundation of a house. At the same time, it is guaranteed to receive a room with a comfortable warm atmosphere at the end.

To ensure that the final structure is reliable and the base is strong optimal choice a concrete screed will be installed in several layers, between which the floor heating system will be located. In general, the entire installation process heated floors over a soil base consists of two extensive procedures: preparing the concrete base and installing a direct water structure for underfloor heating.

What will you need?

To prepare the soil for further work and installation of the heating structure will require a certain set of tools and materials.

Basic materials and tools for installing heated floors on the ground:

coarse sand (river);
crushed stone;
heat-insulating material made of aluminum foil;
pipeline fasteners;
damper tape;
reinforcement mesh;
manifold with mounting cabinet;
construction mixture for pouring self-leveling floors.

Preparing the base

As with any work, preparation begins with clearing the ground surface of construction debris. Then you need to decide on the level of the future floor. Measurement of the layer-by-layer base under a warm floor is carried out from top to bottom. To do this, you will need a cord and nails, with which a line is drawn along the perimeter of the territory, symbolizing a clean floor level. After this, the layers of screed, coating, substrate and waterproofing are measured down.

Important! If there is a dangerous proximity to groundwater, then you will need to make a drainage system to prevent unnecessary moisture from entering the base.

The next event on the list will be laying the foundation. The materials for its construction will be river sand of a large fraction and crushed stone with a particle size of 3 cm, laid according to the scheme to a depth of about 30 cm. The constructed base is carefully compacted with constant moisture.

If the structure is located on a dry hill, a layer of litter is laid on top of the base. If drainage is required, then it is recommended to use a layer of special material - geotextile. And crushed stone or gravel of large fractions is poured on top of the litter.

After installing the bedding and waterproofing, if necessary, a layer is installed to insulate heat from the floor. Among the many materials, polystyrene foam with aluminum foil coating, which has low thermal conductivity, is durable and resistant to moisture, would be ideal.

Schemes for installing a floor on the ground in a house, basement, garage or bathhouse

In houses without basements, the floor of the first floor can be made according to two schemes:

supported on the ground - with a screed on the ground or on joists;
supported on walls - like a ceiling over a ventilated underground.

Which of the two options will be better and easier?

In houses without a basement, floors on the ground are a popular solution for all rooms on the first floor. Floors on the ground are cheap, simple and easy to implement; they are also beneficial to install in the basement, garage, bathhouse and other utility rooms. Simple design, use of modern materials, placement of a heating circuit in the floor (warm floor) make such floors comfortable and attractively priced.

In winter, the backfill under the floor always has a positive temperature. For this reason, the soil at the base of the foundation freezes less - the risk of frost heaving of the soil is reduced. In addition, the thickness of the thermal insulation of a floor on the ground may be less than that of a floor above a ventilated underground.

It is better to abandon the floor on the ground if backfilling with soil is required to a height that is too high, more than 0.6-1 m. The costs of backfilling and soil compaction in this case may be too high.

A floor on the ground is not suitable for buildings on piles or columnar foundation with a grillage that is located above the ground.

Three basic diagrams for installing floors on the ground

In the first version concrete monolithic reinforced floor slab rests on load-bearing walls, Fig.1.

After the concrete hardens, the entire load is transferred to the walls. In this option, a monolithic reinforced concrete floor slab plays the role of a floor slab and must be designed for the standard load of the floors, have the appropriate strength and reinforcement.

The soil is actually used here only as temporary formwork when installing iron concrete slab ceilings This type of floor is often called a “suspended floor on the ground”.

A suspended floor on the ground has to be made if there is a high risk of shrinkage of the soil under the floor. For example, when building a house on peat bogs or when the height of the bulk soil is more than 600 mm. The thicker the backfill layer, the higher the risk of significant subsidence of the fill soil over time.

Second option - this is a floor on a foundation - a slab, when reinforced concrete monolithic slab, poured onto the ground over the entire area of the building, serves as a support for the walls and a base for the floor, Fig.2.

Third option provides for the installation of a monolithic concrete slab or laying wooden logs in the spaces between load-bearing walls supported on bulk soil.

Here the slab or floor joists are not connected to the walls. The load of the floor is completely transferred to the bulk soil, Fig.3.

It is the latter option that is correctly called a floor on the ground, which is what our story will be about.

Ground floors must provide:

thermal insulation of premises in order to save energy;
comfortable hygienic conditions for people;
protection against penetration of ground moisture and gases - radioactive radon - into premises;
prevent the accumulation of water vapor condensation inside the floor structure;
reduce the transmission of impact noise to adjacent rooms along the building structures.

Backfilling the soil cushion for the floor on the ground

The surface of the future floor is raised to the required height by installing a cushion of non-heaving soil.

Before starting work on backfilling, be sure to remove the top soil layer with vegetation. If this is not done, the floor will begin to settle over time.

Any soil that can be easily compacted can be used as a material for constructing a cushion: sand, fine crushed stone, sand-gravel mixture, and if the groundwater level is low, sandy loam and loam. It is beneficial to use the soil remaining on the site from the well and (except for peat and black soil).

The cushion soil is carefully compacted layer by layer (no thicker than 15 cm.) by compacting and pouring water onto the soil. The degree of soil compaction will be higher if mechanical compaction is used.

Do not place large crushed stones, broken bricks, or pieces of concrete into the cushion. There will still be voids between large fragments.

The thickness of the bulk soil cushion is recommended to be in the range of 300-600 mm. It is still not possible to compact the fill soil to the state of natural soil. Therefore, the soil will settle over time. A thick layer of fill soil can cause the floor to settle too much and unevenly.

To protect against ground gases - radioactive radon, it is recommended to make a layer of compacted crushed stone or expanded clay in the cushion. This underlying captage layer is made 20 cm thick. The content of particles smaller than 4 mm this layer should contain no more than 10% by weight. The filtration layer must be ventilated.

The top layer of expanded clay, in addition to protecting against gases, will serve as additional thermal insulation for the floor. For example, a layer of expanded clay 18 cm. corresponds to 50 in terms of heat-saving ability mm. polystyrene foam To protect insulation boards and waterproofing films, which in some floor designs are laid directly on the backfill, from crushing, a leveling layer of sand is poured on top of the compacted layer of crushed stone or expanded clay, twice the thickness of the backfill fraction.

Before filling the soil cushion, it is necessary to lay water supply and sewerage pipes at the entrance to the house, as well as pipes for the ground ventilation heat exchanger. Or lay cases for installing pipes in them in the future.

Construction of floors on the ground

In private housing construction, the floor on the ground is arranged according to one of three options:

ground floor with concrete screed;
ground floor with dry screed;
ground floor on wooden joists.

A concrete floor on the ground is noticeably more expensive to construct, but is more reliable and durable than other structures.

Concrete floor on the ground

Floors on the ground are a multi-layer structure, Fig.4. Let's go through these layers from bottom to top:

Placed on a ground cushion material that prevents filtration into the groundmoisture contained in freshly laid concrete (e.g. plastic film thickness not less than 0.15 mm.). The film is applied to the walls.
Along the perimeter of the walls of the room, to the total height of all layers of the floor, fix separating edge layer from strips 20 – 30 thick mm, cut from insulation boards.
Then they arrange a monolithic concrete floor preparation thickness 50-80 mm. from lean concrete class B7.5-B10 to crushed stone fraction 5-20 mm. This is a technological layer intended for gluing waterproofing. The radius of concrete joining the walls is 50-80 mm. Concrete preparation can be reinforced with steel or fiberglass mesh. The mesh is laid in the lower part of the slab with a protective layer of concrete of at least 30 mm. For reinforcing concrete foundations it can alsouse steel fiber length 50-80 mm and diameter 0.3-1mm. During hardening, the concrete is covered with film or watered. Read:
For hardened concrete floor preparation weld-on waterproofing is glued. Either two layers of rolled waterproofing or roofing material on a bitumen base with each layer placed on the wall. The rolls are rolled out and joined with an overlap of 10 cm. Waterproofing is a barrier to moisture and also serves as protection against the penetration of ground gases into the house. The floor waterproofing layer must be combined with a similar wall waterproofing layer. Butt joints of film or roll materials must be sealed.
On a layer of hydro-gas insulation lay thermal insulation slabs. Extruded polystyrene foam will probably be the best option for floor insulation on the ground. Foam plastic with a minimum density of PSB35 (residential premises) and PSB50 for heavy loads (garage) is also used. Polystyrene foam breaks down over time upon contact with bitumen and alkali (that's all cement-sand mortars). Therefore, before laying foam plastic on a polymer-bitumen coating, one layer of polyethylene film should be laid with an overlap of sheets of 100-150 mm. The thickness of the insulation layer is determined by thermal engineering calculations.
On the thermal insulation layer lay the underlying layer(for example, polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 0.15 mm.), which creates a barrier to moisture contained in freshly laid concrete floor screed.
Then lay a monolithic reinforced screed with a “warm floor” system (or without a system). When heating floors, it is necessary to provide expansion joints in the screed. The monolithic screed must be at least 60 thick mm. executed from concrete class not lower than B12.5 or from mortarbased on cement or gypsum binder with a compressive strength of at least 15 MPa(M150 kgf/cm 2). The screed is reinforced with welded steel mesh. The mesh is placed at the bottom of the layer. Read: . To more thoroughly level the surface of a concrete screed, especially if the finished floor is made of laminate or linoleum, a self-leveling solution of factory-made dry mixes with a thickness of at least 3 is applied on top of the concrete layer. cm.
On the screed installing finished floor.

This is a classic ground floor. On its basis it is possible various options execution - both in design and in the materials used, both with and without insulation.

Option - concrete floor on the ground without concrete preparation

Using modern building materials, concrete floors on the ground are often made without a layer concrete preparation . A layer of concrete preparation is needed as a base for the sticker roll waterproofing on a paper or fabric base impregnated with a polymer-bitumen composition.

In floors without concrete preparation As waterproofing, a more durable polymer membrane specially designed for this purpose is used, a profiled film, which is laid directly on the ground cushion.

A profiled membrane is a fabric made of high-density polyethylene (HDP) with protrusions molded on the surface (usually spherical or truncated cone-shaped) with a height of 7 to 20 mm. The material is produced with a density from 400 to 1000 g/m 2 and is supplied in rolls with widths ranging from 0.5 to 3.0 m, length 20 m.

Due to the textured surface, the profiled membrane is securely fixed into the sand base without deforming or moving during installation.

Fixed into a sand base, the profiled membrane provides a solid surface suitable for laying insulation and concrete.

The surface of the membranes withstands the movement of workers and transportation machines without ruptures concrete mixtures and solutions (excluding tracked vehicles).

The service life of the profiled membrane is more than 60 years.

The profiled membrane is laid on a well-compacted sand bed with the spikes facing down. The membrane spikes will be fixed in the pillow.

The seams between the overlapping rolls are carefully sealed with mastic.

The studded surface of the membrane gives it the necessary rigidity, which allows you to lay insulation boards directly on it and concrete the floor screed.

If slabs made of extruded polystyrene foam with profiled joints are used to construct a thermal insulation layer, then such slabs can be laid directly on the ground backfill.

Backfill of crushed stone or gravel with a thickness of at least 10 cm neutralizes the capillary rise of moisture from the soil.

In this embodiment, the polymer waterproofing film is laid on top of the insulation layer.

If the top layer of the soil cushion is made of expanded clay, then you can dispense with the insulation layer under the screed.

The thermal insulation properties of expanded clay depend on its bulk density. Made of expanded clay with a bulk density of 250–300 kg/m 3 it is enough to make a thermal insulation layer with a thickness of 25 cm. Expanded clay with bulk density 400–500 kg/m 3 to achieve the same thermal insulation ability, you will have to lay it in a layer 45 thick cm. Expanded clay is poured in layers 15 thick cm and compacted using a manual or mechanical tamper. The easiest to compact is multi-fraction expanded clay, which contains granules of different sizes.

Expanded clay is quite easily saturated with moisture from the underlying soil. Wet expanded clay has reduced thermal insulation properties. For this reason, it is recommended to install a moisture barrier between the base soil and the expanded clay layer. A thick waterproofing film can serve as such a barrier.

Large-porous expanded clay concrete without sand, encapsulated. Each expanded clay granule is enclosed in a cement waterproof capsule.

The base for the floor, made of large-porous sand-free expanded clay concrete, will be durable, warm and with low water absorption.

Floor on the ground with dry prefabricated screed

In floors on the ground, as the top load-bearing layer, instead of a concrete screed, in some cases it is advantageous to make a dry prefabricated screed from gypsum fiber sheets, from sheets of waterproof plywood, as well as from prefabricated floor elements from different manufacturers.

For residential premises on the first floor of the house more than simple and cheap option There will be a floor on the ground with a dry prefabricated floor screed, Fig. 5.

A floor with a prefabricated screed is afraid of flooding. Therefore, it should not be done in the basement, as well as in wet rooms - bathroom, boiler room.

The ground floor with a prefabricated screed consists of the following elements (positions in Fig. 5):

1 - Flooring - parquet, laminate or linoleum.

2 - Glue for joints of parquet and laminate.

3 - Standard underlay for flooring.

4 - Prefabricated screed from ready-made elements or gypsum fiber sheets, plywood, particle boards, OSB.

5 - Glue for assembling the screed.

6 - Leveling backfill - quartz or expanded clay sand.

7 - Communications pipe (water supply, heating, electrical wiring, etc.).

8 - Insulation of the pipe with porous fiber mats or polyethylene foam sleeves.

9 - Protective metal casing.

10 — Expanding dowel.

11 - Waterproofing - polyethylene film.

12 - Reinforced concrete base made of class B15 concrete.

13 - Foundation soil.

The connection between the floor and the outer wall is shown in Fig. 6.

The positions in Fig. 6 are as follows:
1-2. Varnished parquet, parquet, or laminate or linoleum.
3-4. Parquet adhesive and primer, or standard underlay.
5. Prefabricated screed from finished elements or gypsum fiber sheets, plywood, particle boards, OSB.
6. Water-dispersed adhesive for screed assembly.
7. Moisture insulation - polyethylene film.
8. Quartz sand.
9. Concrete base— reinforced concrete screed class B15.
10. Separating gasket made of waterproofing roll material.
11. Thermal insulation made of polystyrene foam PSB 35 or extruded polystyrene foam, thickness as calculated.
12. Foundation soil.
13. Plinth.
14. Self-tapping screw.
15. External wall.

As mentioned above, the soil cushion at the base of the floor always has a positive temperature and in itself has certain heat-insulating properties. In many cases, it is enough to additionally lay insulation in a strip along the outer walls (item 11 in Fig. 6.) to obtain the required thermal insulation parameters for a floor without underfloor heating (without heated floors).

Thickness of floor insulation on the ground

Fig.7. Be sure to lay insulation tape in the floor, along the perimeter of the external walls, with a width of at least 0.8 m. From the outside, the foundation (basement) is insulated to a depth of 1 m.

The temperature of the soil under the floor, in the area adjacent to the plinth along the perimeter of the external walls, depends quite strongly on the temperature of the outside air. A cold bridge forms in this zone. Heat leaves the house through the floor, soil and basement.

The ground temperature closer to the center of the house is always positive and depends little on the temperature outside. The soil is heated by the heat of the Earth.

Building regulations require that the area through which heat escapes be insulated. For this, It is recommended to install thermal protection at two levels (Fig. 7):

Insulate the basement and foundation of the house from the outside to a depth of at least 1.0 m.
Lay a layer of horizontal thermal insulation into the floor structure around the perimeter of the external walls. The width of the insulation tape along the external walls is not less than 0.8 m.(pos. 11 in Fig. 6).

The thickness of the thermal insulation is calculated from the condition that the overall resistance to heat transfer in the floor-soil-basement area must be no less than the same parameter for the outer wall.

Simply put, the total thickness of the insulation of the base plus the floor should be no less than the thickness of the insulation of the outer wall. For the climatic zone in the Moscow region, the total thickness of foam insulation is at least 150 mm. For example, vertical thermal insulation on a plinth 100 mm., plus 50 mm. horizontal tape in the floor along the perimeter of the external walls.

When choosing the size of the thermal insulation layer, it is also taken into account that insulating the foundation helps reduce the depth of freezing of the soil under its base.

This minimum requirements to insulate the floor on the ground. It is clear that what larger sizes thermal insulation layer, the higher the energy saving effect.

Install thermal insulation under the entire floor surface for the purpose of energy saving, it is only necessary in the case of installing heated floors in the premises or building an energy-passive house.

In addition, a continuous layer of thermal insulation in the floor of the room can be useful and necessary to improve the parameter heat absorption of the floor covering surface. Thermal absorption of the floor surface is the property of the floor surface to absorb heat in contact with any objects (for example, the feet). This is especially important if the finished floor is made of ceramic or stone tiles, or other material with high thermal conductivity. Such a floor with insulation will feel warmer.

The heat absorption index of the floor surface for residential buildings should not be higher than 12 W/(m 2 °C). A calculator for calculating this indicator can be found

Wooden floor on the ground on joists on a concrete screed

Base slab made of concrete class B 12.5, thickness 80 mm. over a layer of crushed stone compacted into the ground to a depth of at least 40 mm.

Wooden blocks - logs with a minimum cross-section, width 80 mm. and height 40 mm., It is recommended to lay on a layer of waterproofing in increments of 400-500 mm. For vertical alignment, they are placed on plastic pads in the form of two triangular wedges. By moving or spreading the pads, the height of the lags is adjusted. The span between adjacent support points of the log is no more than 900 mm. A gap of 20-30 mm wide should be left between the joists and the walls. mm.

The logs lie freely without attachment to the base. During the installation of the subfloor, they can be fastened together with temporary connections.

For the installation of a subfloor it is usually used wood boards— OSB, chipboard, DSP. The thickness of the slabs is at least 24 mm. All slab joints must be supported by joists. Wooden lintels are installed under the joints of the slabs between adjacent logs.

The subfloor can be made from tongue-and-groove floorboards. Such a floor made from high-quality boards can be used without floor covering. Permissible humidity wood flooring materials 12-18%.

If necessary, insulation can be laid in the space between the joists. Mineral wool slabs must be covered with a vapor-permeable film on top, which prevents microparticles of insulation from penetrating into the room.

Rolled waterproofing made of bitumen or bitumen-polymer materials glued in two layers onto the concrete underlying layer using the melting method (for fused rolled materials) or by sticking on bitumen-polymer mastics. When installing adhesive waterproofing, it is necessary to ensure a longitudinal and transverse overlap of the panels of at least 85 mm.

To ventilate the underground space of floors on the ground along the joists, the rooms must have slots in the baseboards. Holes with an area of 20-30 are left in at least two opposite corners of the room. cm 2 .

Wooden floor on the ground on joists on posts

There's another one design diagram gender is wooden floor on the ground on joists, laid on posts, Fig.5.

Positions in Fig.5:
1-4 - Elements of the finished floor.
5 —
6-7 - Glue and screws for assembling the screed.
8 - Wooden joist.
9 — Wooden leveling gasket.
10 - Waterproofing.
11 - Brick or concrete column.
12 - Foundation soil.

Arranging the floor on joists along columns allows you to reduce the height of the ground cushion or completely abandon its construction.

Floors, soils and foundations

Ground floors are not connected to the foundation and rest directly on the ground under the house. If it is heaving, then the floor can “go on a spree” under the influence of forces in winter and spring.

To prevent this from happening, the heaving soil under the house must be made not to heave. The easiest way to do this is the underground part

Design of pile foundations on bored (including TISE) and screw piles involves the installation of a cold base. Insulating the soil under a house with such foundations is a rather problematic and expensive task. Floors on the ground in the house pile foundation can be recommended only for non-heaving or slightly heaving soils on the site.

When building a house on heaving soils, it is necessary to have an underground part of the foundation to a depth of 0.5 - 1 m.

In a house with external multilayer walls with insulation on the outside, a cold bridge is formed through the base and load-bearing part of the wall, bypassing the insulation of the wall and floor.

There are different installation methods panel heating. One of them is underfloor heating. The peculiarity is that such heating is done during the construction of the building, and not subsequently its operation, due to the desire to modernize the housing.

If you plan to make a heated floor on the ground in a private house, you should divide all the work into two stages: a rough screed is poured onto the lower layers, then all other layers of the cake are laid out. This is an ironclad rule for installation, dictated by possible shrinkage of the soil.

The design of a warm floor, which is installed indoors, resembles a kind of “pie”, since it consists of several layers.

Pouring a heated floor over the ground directly depends on the characteristics of the soil. It must meet certain requirements and standards.

So, groundwater should be no higher than 5–6 meters from the level of the top layer. It is important that the soil of the site does not have a high value of looseness and airiness. Therefore they are not allowed construction work on sandstones and black soil. It is also important to take into account the load that will be placed on the structure during operation. The floor arrangement must provide the following:

reliable thermal insulation rooms;
prevent groundwater from flooding the premises;
eliminate external noise;
prevent the penetration of water vapor;
provide comfort to residents.

Water heated floor on the ground

The design of panel heating is an excellent solution for living rooms and work spaces with a large area (more than 20 m2). Here you can use electric heating or water. In small rooms (bathroom, balcony or loggia) it is quite difficult to place pipes. Therefore, the use of electric heated floors is allowed (and even recommended). As a rule, everyone strives to provide comfort primarily in large rooms. It is worth considering the water floor on the ground and its features.

Important to know! In high-rise buildings, it is prohibited to install a water panel heating system together with a centralized heat source. This is due to depressurization of the system, the introduction of additional resistances into the pre-calculated design, which will interfere with correct operation.

Based on this, it is worth understanding that to connect heating it is worth considering the presence of an autonomous heat source. And for this you need to contact the relevant government agencies for permission.

There are several methods for installing water systems. But for each of them you need to provide the following:

When laying on the ground, you should take care of organizing a kind of “cushion”. The first layer of sand is laid (thickness 5–7 cm), followed by fine stone (layer thickness 8–10 cm).
The second stage is waterproofing. Almost everything can be used available materials. Bitumen-rubber or bitumen-polymer mastic is suitable. As an alternative, the pasting type can be used. This option has fiberglass reinforcement.
You can't do without thermal insulation. You can use polystyrene foam. The thickness of this layer is variable and depends on the calculations performed.
You can use an additional layer of roll-type thermal insulation covered with foil (this is an auxiliary structure, so this step can be skipped).
Laying heated floor pipes on the ground.
A screed is made over the pipeline. It will also require mesh reinforcement. The height of such a structure together with the heating elements should be 50–70 mm. This is done to quickly warm up the coating. Reinforcement is carried out above the heated floor structure. This is done in order to evenly distribute the load on the system.
Finish coating. Here it is allowed to use materials that are not susceptible to the thermal effects of an underfloor heating system.

The main mistakes when installing heated floors on the ground

How to make a floor screed on the ground for a heated floor

Current methods for installing concrete screed on the ground are usually divided into 4 main stages:

preparatory work;
pouring concrete screed;
plane processing;
sealing the cake.

The layered structure of the cake is of particular importance. It includes the following:

base (it must be compacted before subsequent work);
fine sand;
crushed stone;
waterproofing layer;
primary concrete covering;
steam protection;
panel or roll insulation;
finishing concrete screed with reinforcement.

Preparatory work begins with leveling. This will allow you to determine the level of the ground and floor of the future building. The soil needs to be compacted using special units.

The waterproofing layer can be made of membrane materials. The only requirement put forward to him is integrity. Otherwise, damage may result in flooding. Maximum tightness of the layer can be achieved by laying it overlapping and fastening the parts with mounting tape.

The rough screed is made from lean concrete mixed with fine crushed stone. They do not extend to such a surface special requirements. By the way, it can have height differences of up to 4 mm.

Insulation of floors on the ground involves the use quality materials. Ideally, this layer should serve not only as thermal insulation, but also protect the room from water penetration. This will make your home more secure from flooding.

Installation of the finishing screed is carried out in several steps.

Important! Reinforcement directly depends on the design loads on the heated floor.

If the value is small, you can use a road grid. If the expected loads are large enough, then it is recommended to use a frame made of iron rods with a diameter of 8 mm.

At the end of the work, the guide beacons are installed and the final pouring of the cement-concrete mixture is carried out. The final stage is leveling the floor.

Heat loss through the floor on the ground. How to calculate?

Heat losses through the floor structure are calculated slightly differently than through other building envelopes. Before installing heating, you need to familiarize yourself with the methodology for determining them.

The entire plane is divided into zones of a certain size. There are 4 of them in total:

The horizontal component of zone I is 2 m from the wall. Vertical component - thickness load-bearing wall which will need to be insulated. It is 1.5 m.
Zone II is another 2 meters of floor. The area begins directly from zone I to the center of the room for which the calculation is being carried out.
Zone III – another 2 meters. This area originates from zone II.
And zone IV is the remaining floor area of the room.

Afterwards a sketch is drawn. If the room is small, then the conditional division may not be into 4, but into 2-3 zones. Next, the thermal resistance is determined for each area.

Regulatory literature states that it should be equal to 2.1 m2°C/W. To ensure this indicator, you need to know the thermal conductivity of each layer of the cake. The second area has a standard resistance of 4.3 m2°C/W. The third is 8.6, and the fourth is 14.2.

After defining thermal resistances For each zone you need to immediately calculate the area. In addition, you should know the difference in temperature between outside and inside air. The calculated value should be taken as the temperature of the coldest five-day period.

After this, heat loss is calculated using the formula:

Q = S*T/R, where:
Q – heat loss, W
S – estimated area of each zone, m2
R – thermal resistance enclosing structure, m2°C/W
T – temperature difference.

When the calculation of heat loss for each floor zone is completed, you need to calculate the total value for the entire room. To do this, you need to add the results obtained for each section.

Heated floor pie on the ground: installation features

The earthen base on which the heating will be installed must be prepared. To do this, the soil is leveled and the top layer is compacted. If necessary, a layer of bedding is placed on the ground. It consists of crushed stone or gravel. The most commonly used material is the middle fraction. This prevents capillary penetration of groundwater into the room. The need to lay such a “pillow” arises only if high level groundwater.

The layer of rough screed mentioned above also has certain nuances. The thickness should be from 50 to 100 mm. The grade of concrete used is M100 or M200. It is advisable to reinforce the sole in cases where the soil was poorly compacted. Also, its use is justified in cases where there are discrepancies in the density of the base.

Advice. If there are holes or trenches, reinforcement is a necessary element of the pie.

A rough screed for underfloor heating on the ground in a private house can be laid on the floors basements. This is done to level the plane. The thickness of such a layer should not be less than 3 cm.

There is also such a thing as dry screed. Its use has gained popularity due to the fact that there are no wet concrete work. It is advisable to use the technology only for arranging a rough screed.

When laying a heated floor on the ground, you should also take care of the deformation layer. A damper tape will help here. The material will eliminate the likelihood of a thermal bridge. It also compensates for the stress caused by heating concrete covering. This prevents the screed from expanding and cracking. Damper tape is laid on all sides of external enclosing structures. But this is done only after applying plaster and preparatory work for the final finishing of the building.

The installation of a heated floor is considered complex in itself. engineering problem. If the floor is in direct contact with the ground and serves as part of a liquid heating system, the likelihood of making a mistake increases significantly. Today we will talk about both the materials used and the step-by-step design.

Laying heated floors on the ground is a complex engineering undertaking. This means that the contractor is responsible not only for the efficiency and long service life of the heating system, but also for the normal behavior of the floor covering under cyclic heating conditions. Therefore, act consistently and strictly follow the recommendations for device technology.

Which pipes are suitable for heated floors?

The first thing you need to do is decide on the type of heat-conducting tubes. While the issue of purchasing the right type of product is being resolved, you will have time to carry out all the necessary preparatory work. In addition, you will know the pipe fastening system from the very beginning, and you will provide everything necessary for this.

So, let's start by abandoning pipes that do not have such a purpose as being used in underfloor heating systems. This includes metal-plastic polyethylene pipes connected by a system of press fittings and PPR pipes for soldering plastic water pipe. The former do not perform well in terms of reliability, the latter conduct heat poorly and have high coefficients of thermal expansion.

Initially, a convenient and reliable installation system for temporary pipe fastening is selected. This could also be a reinforcing mesh to which the pipes are tied with wire, but imagine installing it in this way over an area of 100 m2 or more, or if suddenly several ties come off during the process of pouring concrete. Therefore, a mounting base or rail system should be used. They are attached to the base of the floor while the pipes are not yet laid, then the pipes are fixed in the guides with clips or click clamps.

The fastening system itself can be plastic or metal. There is not much difference in this, the only thing you need to pay attention to is how reliable the fixation is and whether the guides themselves can damage the pipes.

Finally, we decide on the pipe material. There are two types of products recommended for use in underfloor heating systems. For both, the installation technology eliminates the influence of the human factor when bending and connecting.

Copper. Despite the increased cost, copper tubes are easy to install; for soldering you will need a bottle of flux and gas burner. Copper works best in “fast” underfloor heating systems, which operate in parallel with radiators, but not on an ongoing basis. Bend copper tubes are carried out according to a template; therefore, their fracture is extremely unlikely.

Polyethylene. This is a more common class of pipes. Polyethylene is practically unbreakable, but installation will require a special crimping tool. Polyethylene can have different densities, but not lower than 70% is recommended. The presence of an internal oxygen barrier is also important: polyethylene poorly resists the diffuse penetration of gases, at the same time, water in a pipe of such length can entrain significant volumes of oxygen from the external environment.

Soil preparation

When installing a heated floor on the ground, a “pie” is prepared, the thickness and filling of which are determined individually. But this data is important already at the first stage of work, so that, if necessary, the earthen floor is deepened and not sacrificing the height of the room.

In general, the soil is removed 30–35 cm below the level of the planned floor covering, taken as the zero point. The surface is carefully leveled in the horizontal plane, the layer of geotextile is backfilled with incompressible material, in most cases ASG is used for this.

After careful manual compaction of the backfill, preparation is carried out with low-grade concrete. For additional thermal insulation, this layer may consist of lightweight expanded clay concrete. It is important that the surface is brought into a common plane located below the zero mark by the thickness of the pie plus about another 10–15 mm.

Choice of insulation

A water-heated floor pie consists of insulation tightly sandwiched between two layers of cement-sand screed. The insulation itself is subject to a fairly narrow range of requirements.

Compressive strength is mainly standardized. Extruded polystyrene foam with a density of 3% or more is ideal, as well as PIR and PUR boards as more fireproof. If desired, you can use mineral wool slabs of grade 225 according to GOST 9573–96. Cotton wool is often abandoned due to the complexity of its installation and the need to cover the insulation with a hydrobarrier (polyamide film). It is characteristic that minimum thickness slabs are 40 mm, while when constructing a reflective screen made of EPS, the thickness of the latter rarely exceeds 20–25 mm.

Foam polymer materials also serve as a good barrier to moisture migrating from the soil; they do not require waterproofing. Many may be stopped by the questionable safety of styrene-containing material or the price of more expensive boards with complete chemical inertness (PUR and PIR).

The thickness of the insulation is determined thermotechnical calculation. If concrete with expanded clay as a filler was used in the preparation, 10–15 mm of EPS or 60 mm of mineral wool will be sufficient. In the absence of insulated preparation, these values should be increased by 50%.

Preparatory and accumulating screeds

It is very important that the insulation is tightly clamped between two ties and any movement or vibration is excluded. The concrete floor preparation is leveled with a preparatory screed, then insulation boards are glued onto it using tile adhesive under the comb. All joints are sealed with glue. If used mineral wool, the concrete preparation must first be coated with a layer of penetrating waterproofing.

The screed layer above the insulation must be of such a thickness that its overall thermal conductivity is at least 3–4 times lower than that of the heat shield. In general, the thickness of the screed is about 1.5–2 cm from the final ceiling height, but to adjust the inertia of the heated floor, you can freely “play” with this value. The main thing is to change the thickness of the insulation accordingly.

The top layer of the screed, subject to heating, is poured after fencing the walls with damper tape. For convenience, pouring the accumulating screed can be carried out in two stages. At the first stage, about 15–20 mm is poured with reinforcement with a sparse mesh. It is convenient to move along the resulting surface and attach the pipe installation system; the remainder is poured to the level of the zero mark, minus the thickness of the floor covering.

1 - compacted soil; 2 - sand and gravel backfill; 3 - preparatory reinforced screed; 4 - water vapor barrier; 5 - insulation; 6 - reinforcing mesh; 7 - underfloor heating pipes; 8 - cement-sand screed; 9 - floor covering; 10 - damper tape

System installation, proportions and loop pitch

Laying of underfloor heating pipes should be carried out according to a pre-designed diagram drawn on the floor. If the room has a shape other than rectangular, its plan is divided into several rectangles, each of which is represented by a separate turn of the loop.

The same principle applies when zoning the floor. For example, in the play area, pipes can be laid in more frequent steps, but it is advisable not to lay them under cabinet furniture at all. In every single turn rectangular shape, depending on the heating priority, the tubes can be laid either as a snake or a snail, or a combination of options. The general rule is simple: the further a specific point is from the beginning of the flow, the lower its temperature; on average, there is a drop of 1.5–2.5 ºС every 10 meters, respectively, the optimal length of the loop is in the range of 50–80 meters.

The minimum distance between adjacent tubes is determined by the manufacturer according to the permissible bending radius. A denser laying is possible using a “snail” pattern or with the formation of wide loops at the edges of the snake. It is optimal to maintain a distance equal to 20–30 times the diameter of the tube. You also need to make allowances for the thickness of the accumulating screed and the desired rate of heating of the floor.

The installation system is attached along the route of laying through the insulation to the concrete preparation layer; accordingly, the length of the fasteners (usually plastic BM dowels) should be 50% greater than the distance to the surface of the preparatory screed.

When laying the pipe, you should create an improvised spool for unwinding, otherwise the pipe will constantly twist and break. When all the hinges are secured in the mounting system, they are checked high pressure and, if the test results are satisfactory, the top layer of the accumulating screed is poured.

Including heated floors in the heating system

It is recommended to lay whole sections of pipe without joints in the screed layer. The tails of the loops can be led either to local collectors or led directly to the boiler room. The latter option is usually convenient when the heated floor is a short distance from the boiler or if all rooms have a common corridor, which requires indirect heating.

The ends of the pipes are rolled with an expander and connected by crimping or soldering with threaded fittings for connection to the manifold assembly. Each of the outlets is supplied shut-off valves, installed on the supply tubes ball valves with a red flywheel, on the return - with a blue one. A threaded transition with shut-off valves is necessary for emergency shutdown of a separate loop, its purging or flushing.

An example of a diagram for connecting a water heated floor to a heating system: 1 - heating boiler; 2 - expansion tank; 3 - security group; 4 - collector; 5 - circulation pump; 6 - manifold cabinet for heating radiators; 7 - manifold cabinet for underfloor heating

The connection of collectors to the heating main is carried out by analogy with heating radiators; two-pipe and combined connection schemes are possible. In addition to the thermostat, collector units can be equipped with recirculation systems that maintain a comfortable temperature of the coolant in the supply of about 35–40 ºС.