Do-it-yourself battery made of lithium-ion batteries: how to charge correctly. How are car batteries made? DIY lead battery

In this article, a DIYer will guide us through all stages of battery assembly, from choosing the material to final assembly. RC toys, laptop batteries, medical devices, electric bicycles and even electric cars use 18650 batteries.

18650 battery (18*65mm) is the size of lithium ion battery. For comparison, regular AA batteries have a size of 14*50 mm. The author made this particular assembly to replace the lead-acid battery in a homemade product he had previously made.

Video:

Tools and materials:
- ;
- ;
- ;
- ;
-Switch;
-Connector;
- ;
-Screws 3M x 10mm;
- Spot resistance welding machine;
-3D printer;
-Stripper (insulation stripping tool);
- Hairdryer;
-Multimeter;
-Charger for lithium-ion batteries;
-Safety glasses;
-Dielectric gloves;

Some tools can be replaced with more affordable ones.

Step one: choosing batteries
The first step is to choose the right batteries. There are different batteries on the market ranging from $1 to $10. According to the author, the best batteries are from Panasonic, Samsung, Sanyo and LG. They are more expensive than others, but they have proven themselves good quality and characteristics.
The author does not recommend buying batteries with the names Ultrafire, Surefire and Trustfire. These are batteries that did not pass quality control at the factory and were purchased at a bargain price and repackaged under a new name. As a rule, such batteries do not have the declared capacity and there is a risk of fire during charging and discharging.
For his homemade product, the master used Panasonic batteries with a capacity of 3400 mAh.

Step Two: Selecting Nickel Strip
Nickel strips are needed to connect the battery. There are two products on the market: nickel plated metal and nickel strips. The author recommends using nickel strips. They are more expensive, but have low resistance and therefore heat up less, which affects the life of the batteries.

Step Three: Spot Welding or Soldering
There are two methods for connecting batteries: soldering and spot welding. Best choice spot welding. At spot welding the battery does not overheat. But a welding machine (like the author’s) costs approx. 12 t.r. in a foreign online store and approx. 20 t.r. in a Russian online store. The author himself uses welding, but has prepared several recommendations for soldering.
When soldering, keep contact between the soldering iron and the battery to a minimum. It is better to use a powerful soldering iron (from 80 W) and quickly solder than to heat the solder area.

Step Four: Check the Batteries
Before connecting the batteries, you need to check each of them separately. The voltage on the batteries should be approximately the same. New high-quality batteries have a voltage of 3.5 V - 3.7 V. Such batteries can be connected, but it is better to equalize the voltage using a charger. For used batteries, the voltage difference will be even greater.

Step five: battery calculation
For the project, the master needs a battery with a voltage of 11.1 V and a capacity of 17,000 mAh.
The 18650 battery capacity is 3400 mAh. When connecting five batteries in parallel, we get a capacity of 17,000 mAh. Such a compound is designated P, in this case 5P

One battery has a voltage of 3.7 V. To get 11.1 V, you need to connect three batteries in series. Designation S, in this case 3S.

So, to obtain the necessary parameters, you need three sections, each consisting of five parallel-connected batteries, connected in series. Package 3S5P.

Step Six: Battery Assembly
To assemble the battery, the master uses special plastic cells. Plastic cells have a number of advantages over connecting them, for example, using glue gun.
1.Easy assembly of any quantity.
2. There is space between the batteries for ventilation.
3. Vibration and impact resistance.

Collects two 3*5 cells. Installs, in the cell, the first package of 5S batteries with the plus side up, the next five with the minus side up, and the last five batteries again with the plus side up (see photo).

Places the second cell on top.

Step seven: welding
Cuts four nickel strips for parallel connection, with a margin of 10 mm. Cuts ten strips for serial connection.

Places a long strip on the + contacts of the first (when turned over, it will remain first) parallel 5P cell. Welds the strip. Welds the strips with one end to the + of the third cell and the other to the - second. Welds a long strip to the + third cell (on top of the plates). Flips the block. Welds plates with reverse side taking into account that now we connect the third in parallel, and the first and second sections in parallel and in series (considering that it was turned over).

Step Eight: BMS (Battery Management System)
First, let's understand a little what BMS is.
BMS (Battery Management System) is an electronic board that is placed on the battery to control the process of its charge/discharge, monitor the condition of the battery and its elements, control temperature, the number of charge/discharge cycles, and protect the components of the battery. The control and balancing system provides individual control of the voltage and resistance of each battery element, distributes currents between the components of the battery during the charging process, controls the discharge current, determines the loss of capacity from imbalance, and guarantees safe connection/disconnection of the load.

Based on the received data, the BMS balances the cell charge and protects the battery from short circuit, overcurrent, overcharge, overdischarge (high and excessively low voltage of each cell), overheating and undercooling. The BMS functionality allows not only to improve the operation of batteries, but also to maximize their service life.

Important parameters board is the number of cells in a row, in this case 3S, and the maximum discharge current, in this case 25 A. For this project the master used board with the following parameters:
Model: HX-3S-FL25A-A
Overvoltage range: 4.25~4.35V±0.05V
Discharge voltage range: 2.3~3.0V±0.05V
Maximum operating current: 0~25A
Operating temperature: -40 ℃ ~ + 50 ℃
Solders the board to the ends of the battery according to the diagram.

Pour water into a vitamin jar, pour 1.5 teaspoons into it baking soda. Mix the solution well. Let's clean up welding electrode from the coating. We cut two pieces of 7 cm from the electrode. We bend the ends of these blanks. We insert these blanks into the holes in the lid and screw it into the bottle.

We connect the charger to the ends of the battery. Charge the battery for 10 minutes and check the operation of the homemade battery. The estimated output voltage is 1.5-2.5 volts. This power is enough when charging 3 hours for 20 minutes of LED glow. To prevent your battery from swelling, do not seal it.

Another way to make a homemade battery

Homemade battery from scrap materials with a minimum of tools. Imagine a situation when there is no one nearby the necessary details, more precisely, there is a minimum, but you are in the field when there is no diversity. You will have to experimentally artificially limit yourself to the choice of materials.

In the absence of copper in the plates, let’s take copper wire. We will remove the insulation using fire. We cut a piece of galvanized iron into equal plates. Wiring with insulation to connect the circuit. You can immediately take a conductive wire without insulation. We must also find plastic bottle, Any will do dielectric. Conductive liquid solution (saline or acidic, alkaline). Disposable cups.

To begin with, we twist the fire-annealed wire into a cylinder to increase the area. We cut identical plates from galvanized steel according to a template and roll them into cylinders (we bend the corner to clamp the contact wire in it).

From plastic bottle we cut the cushioning material that will be located between the copper and galvanization. We assemble the battery elements, fasten one end of the wire to a thread, the other to zinc and two single wires. One with copper is positive and one with zinc is negative.

We assemble the battery into a series circuit. First, let's try pouring a solution saturated with salt. In the field, any will do. saline solution, urine and more. Voltage 7.74 volts. Let's replace the saline solution with an acidic one; table vinegar was used in the experiment. In the field, sour wine, sorrel infusion, cranberry juice and more are suitable for our battery. Voltage 8.05 volts.

Let's replace it with an alkaline solution; in nature, you can try replacing baking soda with ash placed in water (lye), but you need to experiment to check. Voltage 9.65 volts.

So, let's summarize: on average, from 10 elements we get 8 volts, one glass is equal to 1.25 volts. To reduce the voltage for charging the phone (5.5 volts), we remove two cups; the procedure takes 20 seconds. Or increase it to 4.5 volts by adding 5 cups. This is how you can make a battery when you can’t buy one, with your own hands.

How to make a battery with your own hands?
In this video tutorial we will show you how to make a battery with your own hands. To make it, we need a small container with a lid, soda, water, and a charger.

In this article, a DIYer will guide us through all stages of battery assembly, from material selection to final assembly. RC toys, laptop batteries, medical devices, electric bicycles and even electric cars use 18650 batteries.

18650 battery (18*65mm) is the size of a lithium ion battery. For comparison, regular AA batteries have a size of 14*50 mm. The author made this particular assembly to replace the lead-acid battery in a homemade product he had previously made.

Tools and materials:
– 18650 batteries,
– BMS (Battery Management System),
– Nickel stripe,
– Battery charge level indicator,
-Switch,
-Connector,
– 18650 battery holder,
-Screws 3M x 10mm,
-Resistance spot welding machine,
-3D printer,
-Stripper (insulation stripping tool),
-Fen,
-Multimeter,
-Charger for lithium-ion batteries,
-Safety glasses,
-Dielectric gloves,

Some tools can be replaced with more affordable ones.

Step one: choosing batteries
The first step is to choose the right batteries. There are different batteries on the market ranging from $1 to $10. According to the author, the best batteries are from Panasonic, Samsung, Sanyo and LG. They are more expensive than others, but have proven themselves to be of good quality and performance.
The author does not recommend buying batteries with the names Ultrafire, Surefire and Trustfire. These are batteries that did not pass quality control at the factory and were purchased at a bargain price and repackaged under a new name. As a rule, such batteries do not have the declared capacity and there is a risk of fire during charging and discharging.
For his homemade product, the master used Panasonic batteries with a capacity of 3400 mAh.

One battery has a voltage of 3.7 V. To get 11.1 V, you need to connect three batteries in series. Designation S, in this case 3S.

So, to obtain the necessary parameters, you need three sections, each consisting of five parallel-connected batteries, connected in series. Package 3S5P.

Places the second cell on top.

Step seven: welding
Cuts four nickel strips for parallel connection, with a margin of 10 mm. Cuts ten strips for serial connection.

Places a long strip on the + contacts of the first (when turned over, it will remain first) parallel 5P cell. Welds the strip. Welds the strips with one end to the + of the third cell and the other to the – second. Welds a long strip to the + third cell (on top of the plates). Flips the block. He welds the plates on the reverse side, taking into account that we are now connecting the third section in parallel, and the first and second sections in parallel and in series (considering that it has been turned upside down).

Based on the received data, the BMS performs cell charge balancing, protects the battery from short circuit, overcurrent, overcharge, overdischarge (high and excessively low voltage of each cell), overheating and hypothermia. The BMS functionality allows not only to improve the operation of batteries, but also to maximize their service life.

Important parameters of the board are the number of cells in a row, in this case 3S, and the maximum discharge current, in this case 25 A. For this project, the master used board with the following parameters:
Model: HX-3S-FL25A-A
Overvoltage range: 4.25

4.35V±0.05V
Discharge voltage range: 2.3

3.0V±0.05V
Maximum operating current: 0

25 A
Operating temperature: -40℃

50 ℃
Solders the board to the ends of the battery according to the diagram.

How to assemble a battery with your own hands (subtleties and tips)
In this article, a DIYer will guide us through all stages of battery assembly, from material selection to final assembly. Radio controlled toys, laptop batteries, medical devices,

How to make a battery

A battery is an energy storage device that usually operates on the principle of reversibility chemical reaction. The simplest battery has a simple structure; its idea was first tested in practice by Ritter in 1803; it was a column of 50 copper plates, lined with a damp, dense cloth.

Homemade plate pack

How to make a battery with your own hands? Build from copper plates? There are more simple methods creating an electricity storage device from improvised means. Can be made as acidic homemade battery, and an alkaline type device.

Acid and lead

The simplest design is the lead-acid design for storing electricity. To assemble it you need:

stable container, with the possibility of tightly closing it with a lid,
electrolyte – a solution of battery acid and distilled water,
lead plate - you can use a flattened piece of lead from cable insulation or purchased at a hunting or fishing store,
two metal pins - electrodes, which must be driven vertically into the lead plates.

Next, we present the manufacturing process of this device. Lead plates are placed on metal pins, with a small distance between them. After which the structure is immersed in a container filled with electrolyte. The lead must be completely under the solution. The contact ends of the pins are passed through the lid of the container and securely fixed to it. An electricity consumer can be connected to the ends of the electrodes. The container is placed on a stable surface, after which the device is charged. By complicating the design, rolling the lead plates into a roll and, accordingly, increasing their area, with a small volume, you can achieve good performance of such a device. The same principle is used to make rolls in modern gel energy storage devices.

Plates prepared for immersion in a jar

Important! When working with homemade electronic storage devices, follow safety rules: the acid used in the electrolyte is a rather aggressive substance.

Salt, coal and graphite

This device does not require acid as it uses an alkaline reaction. How to make this type of battery? The basis of this type of energy storage device is a container with an electrolyte in the form of a solution of water and sodium chloride - table salt. To create it you need:

graphite rods, with a metal cap for soldering the contact,
activated or charcoal, crushed into crumbs,
fabric bags for storing coal powder,
container for electrolyte with a tight lid for fixing the ends of the electrode.

The electrodes are a graphite rod coated with dense carbon. Graphite can be used from deteriorated batteries, and charcoal can be used from charcoal or activated carbon from gas mask filters. To create a dense lining, coal can be placed in a water-permeable bag, then a graphite rod can be inserted inside, and the fabric of the bag can be wrapped with thread or wire with an insulating coating.

To increase the performance of this type of design, you can create a battery of several electrodes placed in one container.

Important! Storage capacity and contact voltage homemade devices for storing electricity are relatively small, but at the same time they are quite enough to connect a low-power light source or other purposes. A battery of several electrodes has higher performance, but they are more bulky.

Lemons and oranges as a container for electricity

Lemon is not only a tasty and healthy fruit, but also a natural battery. To use it, it is enough to combine several lemons in a series circuit using metal electrodes. After which you can connect the “fruit” drive to charger. Instead of lemons, you can use other citrus fruits that contain acid, which will serve as a natural electrolyte. The more citrus fruits are involved, the higher the parameters of the “natural” battery.

Lemon juice, acid or its solution can be used separately. To do this, just pour them into a jar small size and install a copper and steel electrode there. The voltage of the natural energy storage device is low, but, nevertheless, it is enough for a low-power lighting source.

Even in the absence of a factory-made energy storage device, you can easily make a battery with your own hands. To create it, you only need knowledge of the basics of physics and chemistry, as well as having any type of acid or alkali on hand. Almost any metals that are available can be used as electrodes, but best option– this is the use of steels with a high content of iron, as well as copper and its alloys.

How to make a battery
How to make a battery: acid and lead. Salt, coal and graphite: making a battery at home. Lemons and oranges as containers for electricity. Do-it-yourself battery using improvised means.

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THE SIMPLE GAS BATTERY
(Manufacturing technology and testing)

Of course, now there are no problems with buying batteries and accumulators, but, apparently, you will be interested in getting acquainted with the design of a gas battery. It is so simple that anyone can repeat it (see diagram).

The device of the simplest gas battery:

1. Capacity
2. Cover
3. Carbon rod
4. Activated carbon
5. Table salt solution (15%)
6. Bag of activated carbon
7. Terminal (clamp)
8. Cork

The design of the battery is clear from the figure. An opaque container (1) with a lid (2) is filled with electrolyte - a 15% solution of table salt.

Two identical electrodes are placed in a container. The electrode consists of a carbon rod, around which a bag (6) with activated carbon (4) is located. The bags must be tightly wrapped with thread to ensure good contact of the electrode with the activated carbon. The thickness of the activated carbon layer should not exceed 15 mm.

If you add 1 g of boric acid and 2 g of sugar to the solution for each liter, the battery performance will improve. Sugar is added during long discharge cycles.

The battery is charged with direct current at the rate of 4.5 volts per cell (cell). Charging time - up to 12 hours. The full charge signal is a profuse release of gases. To prevent gases from “squeezing” the electrolyte out of the container, there is a plug that needs to be opened when charging. To get a capacity of 1a*h, you need to use 65 g of activated carbon. Electrolyte change - once a week.

● If the walls of the vessel allow light to pass through, the battery will discharge quickly. The outside of the container can be painted.
● It is better to use distilled water or melt snow, because... The water supply is highly mineralized, which is bad.
● A 15% solution of table salt is obtained by diluting 5 tablespoons of salt in one liter of water.

The battery described in the above article is really so simple and consists of, literally, basic components that one involuntarily doubts: will it work? So, before publishing an article in the group, I was itching to try it out at work.

Essentially, it is a fuel cell that runs on hydrogen, which, along with oxygen, is stored in a porous volume of coal through the process of electrolysis during charging. The release of gases at the end of charging signals that the coal is oversaturated with gases.

I didn’t buy anything special, everything was found at home. I picked out the carbon rods from a couple of AA batteries (I saved the zinc for the future).

Activated carbon is not sold in the forest, but charcoal is easy to obtain. I wondered if it would work with it, so I used charcoal for barbecues. I selected, checking the conductivity with a tester, the 65 grams mentioned in the article. Then I crushed it, as finely as I had the patience, in a mortar. In the photo in the glass it turned out to be about the word “Sour Cream”!

From a piece old t-shirt I made a couple of bags and filled them with coal. This is the longest and dirtiest process. I poured it through a funnel made of paper, then tamped it down, with my finger, of course. At the end I stuck in the charcoal rods and wrapped the whole thing with thread.

The electrodes turned out to be quite dense, weighing 36 g, with a diameter of about 35 mm, and a length of approximately 75 mm.

I soldered the wires and put them in a glass, separating them with a separator made of wood chips, just in case. Filled saline solution and gave it about an hour to soak.

Charged from a Chinese low-power power supply with adjustable voltage. I set the voltage to 4.7 V. For the first hour, the ammeter needle fluctuated between 200 and 250 mA, the voltage settled at 2.2 V. Over the next three hours, the current dropped from 200 mA to 195 mA, the voltage rose to 2.58 V. I didn’t wait bubbles appeared because it was late.

After turning off the charger, the voltage on the bank quickly dropped to 1.54 V. The short circuit current was surprising - as much as 0.29 A! I noticed that on idling the voltage drops very slowly, by about one hundredth of a volt in five minutes. In a box of junk I dug out a light bulb from a 3.5 V flashlight and used it to load the battery. In four minutes at a discharge current of 140 mA, the voltage dropped to 0.885 V under load. After opening the circuit, the voltage quickly rose to 1.37 V. It is clear that due to the significant internal resistance, the battery is not capable of delivering high current for a long time, although it has a decent capacity.

All that remains is to check for self-discharge, because it is showing frightening rates. I disconnected everything from the battery and left it overnight. Everything turned out to be not so scary. I expected that in seven hours the voltage would drop to half a volt, or even completely discharge. But in the morning the voltmeter cheerfully showed 1.166 V, short-circuit current. - 0.21 A, and I realized that everything is not so bad here either. You can continue playing further.

So, the resulting battery is surprisingly efficient and shows good results. It can be used as a storage device, for example, for a wind generator. With proper care, of course. To begin with, it is worth working on such shortcomings as significant self-discharge and high internal resistance, due to which a slightly higher charging voltage is required, which is important when charging from alternative energy sources, and it is impossible to power a more or less powerful load.

I see the following solutions:

● Insulate the metal parts of the electrodes with varnish and raise them above the electrolyte to prevent short-circuiting of the current through the electrolyte.
● It is quite possible that this is not self-discharge at all, but some kind of process to equalize potentials, since the technology is crude and uncouth.
● Use carbon rods with the largest possible surface area for better contact with the active mass. At the same time, maintain the thickness of the coal layer recommended in the article of 15 mm, or even make it less.
● Select and grind charcoal more carefully (based on minimum ohmic resistance). A mortar is not the most convenient tool for this!
● Try recommended electrolyte supplements - sugar, boric acid.
● Well, smoke this question in specialized literature and on thematic forums!

In general, I am pleased with the results of the tests and, perhaps, I will return to this topic more than once.

Full version site
THE SIMPLE GAS BATTERY (Manufacturing technology and testing) Of course, now there are no problems with buying batteries and accumulators, but apparently you

You will need

- glass jar;
- lead:
- clay;
- sulfuric acid;
- measuring chemical glassware;
- DC source;
- hydrometer;
- tester or multimeter;
- distilled or rain water;
- wires;
- light bulb 2.5-3 V;
- locksmith tools.

Instructions

The battery consists of individual cells. Make one such element. Take sheet lead 5-6 mm thick. If you only have lead in the form of ingots, make a mold, dry it and cast plates of the thickness you need by heating the lead on a stove or burner. The plates should have hangers to hold them on the top edge of the can. To avoid soldering, when casting plates, you can immediately put pieces of insulation stripped into the mold. copper wire, which will later be used to connect to a charger or energy consumer.

Install molded plates on top edges glass jar. A rectangular jar is better. The plates should not touch each other or the bottom of the jar. To avoid short circuits, you can place glass rods or tubes between the plates. The distance from one plate to another should not be less than 1 cm.

This type of battery is called an acid battery, which is why it uses an electrolyte based on sulfuric acid. The electrolyte can be bought ready-made, but if necessary, nothing prevents it from being made. Concentrated sulfuric acid, which can be found commercially, has specific gravity 1.08. Divide it as follows. For 3.5 volumes of water, take 1 volume of sulfuric acid. Pour water, preferably distilled, into a chemical container. You can buy it at an auto store. Filtered rainwater is also suitable. Add sulfuric acid to the water in a thin stream with constant stirring. Remember to ensure that the solution does not splash. Allow the liquid to cool (sulfuric acid becomes very hot when dissolved). The density of the solution according to a Baume hydrometer should be 21-22°C.

Prepare. You will need it immediately after filling the battery. Fill the electrolyte so that its level is 1 cm below the top edge of the jar and the top edge of the plates. Immediately begin the first charge, which is carried out only with direct current. Mark the polarity of the plates with “+” and “-” signs. A fully charged acid battery should show a voltage of 2.2 V on the plates.

All mechanical and chemical work above the battery are finished, but its capacity is still small. To increase it, carry out molding. Connect to output wires light bulb and allow the battery to fully discharge under this load. Check the discharge with a tester or multimeter.

After discharging, charge the battery “in reverse”, that is, by swapping the wires going to the charger so that “+” becomes “-” and vice versa. Discharge the battery again through the light bulb. It is advisable to perform this operation 15-20 times to approximately double the battery capacity. There is no need to mold it anymore.

It is advisable to provide the battery with a cover to protect the electrolyte from contamination. The cover can be made from any dielectric, even wood impregnated with paraffin. It is advisable to arrange the battery terminals in the form of terminals or clamps. Be sure to note their polarity upon completion of the last molding cycle. When using an acid battery, do not add a new one to replace the evaporated electrolyte, only add water to the previous level. If you want to make a battery, connect several of these batteries in series.

Everything's cheap lately radio controlled models began to be equipped with Ni-Cd batteries (nickel-cadmium batteries), or rather assemblies of these batteries. Batteries of this type have a low market value, and there are a number of reasons for this.

Relatively simple and cheap manufacturing technology

· Have a memory effect

· Low number of recharges

· Low specific capacity

Sooner or later, your favorite toy stops turning on, the battery becomes unusable, and the question arises where to find a new one. But where can I find the right size, and most importantly, with the same type of battery connector?!

You don't have to look for anything if you have a soldering iron, a couple of wires, heat-shrink tubing, and 30 minutes of free time.

So, let's say you have a toy powered by a 7.2 V Ni-Mh or Ni-Cd battery with a capacity of 400 ma/h. Naturally, we want not only to bring the toy back to life, but also to extend the play time on a single charge. Therefore, we will increase the capacity of new batteries several times!

By turning the old battery in your hands and cutting its shell, you can easily verify that it is assembled from ordinary AA-class AA batteries using the serial connection method.

Therefore, we need, in our example, this:

· 6 AA class Ni-Mh batteries, each battery is 1.2V, respectively, to obtain 7.2V = 1.2V*6, Same Capacity!

Heat shrink tube

· Soldering equipment: soldering iron, flux, solder

· File/skin

Copper stranded wire approx.

You may have noticed that the batteries in the old battery are not connected by soldering. And this was not done in vain, because with strong heating the battery can be damaged, but, as they say, “everything is good in moderation.” We will connect batteries by soldering, but using a certain technology.

In order for the solder to quickly “stick” to the contact surface of the battery, we first clean the surface with a needle file. When processing with a file, irregularities and scratches are also created that will create conditions for reliable contact.

Personally, I use regular rosin or solder fat as a flux, and regular tin-lead solder, soldering iron temperature 450 degrees.

Let's tin the contact pad. If the solder does not “stick”, you should not heat the battery pad for a long time, this can lead to its failure. In this case, you should add flux and solder and try again.

I do not recommend using insulated wires to connect the battery, as they will greatly change the size of the battery, in some cases this is very important factor. Therefore, I usually remove the insulation and use the method of tinning the bare wire to make kind of flat connecting plates.

Since we tinned the battery contact pads in advance, it won’t be difficult for us to solder the connecting plate.

We connect the battery in series, that is, “+ " one battery is connected to "- " another, and so on. The positive contact of the first and the negative contact of the last, respectively, will give a total output voltage of 7.2 Volts.

By joining everything necessary wires, including the charging connector, put the assembly into a heat-shrinkable tube and heat it up (you can use a regular hair dryer).

Let's summarize. You were the owner of a weak battery with a supply voltage of 7.2V, a capacity of 400mA/h, which was based on 6 Ni-Cd batteries. Taking a connector from an old “dead” battery and doing all the work described above, we got: a battery with a capacity of 1800 mA/h, a supply voltage of 7.2 volts, Ni-Mh without memory effect.

Was the article useful to you?

A battery is an energy storage device that usually operates on the principle of reversibility of a chemical reaction. The simplest battery has a simple structure; its idea was first tested in practice by Ritter in 1803; it was a column of 50 copper plates, lined with a damp, dense cloth.

How to make a battery with your own hands? Build from copper plates? There are simpler methods for creating an electricity storage device using improvised means. You can make both an acid homemade battery and an alkaline type device.

Acid and lead

The simplest design is the lead-acid design for storing electricity. To assemble it you need:

stable container, with the possibility of tightly closing it with a lid;
electrolyte – a solution of battery acid and distilled water;
lead plate - you can use a flattened piece of lead from cable insulation or purchased at a hunting or fishing store;
two metal pins - electrodes, which must be driven vertically into the lead plates.

Important! When working with homemade electronic storage devices, follow safety rules: the acid used in the electrolyte is a rather aggressive substance.

Salt, coal and graphite

graphite rods, with a metal cap for soldering the contact;
activated or charcoal, crushed into crumbs;
fabric bags for storing coal powder;
container for electrolyte with a tight lid for fixing the ends of the electrode.

To increase the performance of this type of design, you can create a battery of several electrodes placed in one container.

Important! The storage capacity and voltage at the contacts of homemade devices for storing electricity are relatively small, but at the same time they are quite enough to connect a low-power light source or other purposes. A battery of several electrodes has higher performance, but they are more bulky.

Lemons and oranges as a container for electricity

Lemon is not only a tasty and healthy fruit, but also a natural battery. To use it, it is enough to combine several lemons in a series circuit using metal electrodes. After which you can connect the “fruit” drive to the charger. Instead of lemons, you can use other citrus fruits that contain acid, which will serve as a natural electrolyte. The more citrus fruits are involved, the higher the parameters of the “natural” battery.

Lemon juice, acid or its solution can be used separately. To do this, just pour them into a small jar and install a copper and steel electrode there. The voltage of the natural energy storage device is low, but, nevertheless, it is enough for a low-power lighting source.

Even in the absence of a factory-made energy storage device, you can easily make a battery with your own hands. To create it, you only need knowledge of the basics of physics and chemistry, as well as having any type of acid or alkali on hand. Almost any metals that are available can be used as electrodes, but the best option is to use steels with a high iron content, as well as copper and its alloys.