During cold weather, ice forms on roofs and water drainage systems, which poses a danger not only to the roof, but also to people, since ice that breaks off the roof poses a serious threat. To prevent the formation of ice, it is equipped with a roof heating system. Its installation is similar to a “warm floor” system - a heating wire is installed over the entire roof area. This process contains many nuances that you need to know.

Causes of ice formation on the roof

1. One of the reasons for the formation of ice is the poor quality of roof insulation. Beneath it there are heated rooms that heat the surface and lead to the formation of an ice crust and icicles. Due to heat loss, snow begins to melt even at low temperatures, melt water moves across the roof area, and on planes with lower temperatures the water freezes again. In this situation, it is necessary to eliminate the root cause - insulate the roof; if you install the thermal insulation correctly, it will work efficiently and economically.

2. Another reason for the formation of ice is seasonal and daily temperature fluctuations. Even if the entire roof structure is installed correctly, temperature fluctuations during the day and night lead to the formation of ice dams. This scheme is similar to that described above, with the difference that what plays a role here is not the temperature fluctuation in different parts of the roof, but the temperature difference across its entire area night and day. During the day, the rays of the sun fall on the house, which heat it and cause the snow masses to melt, and at night, when the temperature drops, they freeze again and a crust forms. In such a situation, cable roof heating will help.

Roof heating system overview

The operating principle of the heating system is based on heat transfer from the mounted electric cable. The system is installed on the roof, along gutters, drainpipes, and in all places where ice and snow accumulate. Heating ensures a stable temperature of the roof surface, due to which the snow melts evenly and goes into the drainage system without forming ice and icicles.

1. Functional purpose heating system:

• prevents icicle growths;
• helps remove melt water from the roof surface;
• prevents clogging of water drainage systems, and, consequently, their deformation;
• reduces the mechanical load on the roof;
• completely eliminates the need to remove slick and ice from the roof manually;
• extends the service life of roofing coverings;
• does not require human participation in controlling the system; it automates roof heating.

2. Components and roof heating scheme:

• electric heating wire;
• fastening parts;
• control panel:
  • input three-phase protective circuit breaker;
  • four-pole contractor;
  • device for protective shutdown;
  • protective circuit breakers for each phase, single-pole;
  • signal lamp;
  • circuit breaker that controls the thermosat.
• distribution network details:
  • power supply wire;
  • signal wire, which is located between the thermostat sensors and the control unit;
  • installation boxes;
  • connecting and end couplings for the heating wire.

3. How the roof heating system works:

• the heating part is an electric wire that heats the roof and water drainage. The wire passes from the front of valleys, gutters, spillways, storm drains, trays, drainpipes. It is selected in such a way as to meet all fire safety rules, with high strength against mechanical loads and resistance to temperature changes, humidity and direct sunlight. The cable roof heating system does not require dismantling in the summer; it is suitable for all types of roofing;

• the distribution and information part consists of power wires, installation elements and distribution boxes. This part of the system plays a distributing role; it transmits electrical power to the heating element and ensures the passage of signals from the roof heating control sensors to the control cabinet and back;
• The control part consists of thermostats, air temperature sensors, a control panel, starting parts and protection, and adjustment devices. The control system is selected based on the power of the heating elements. If the system is equipped with self-regulating wires, then they function without a control system; the power is regulated based on precipitation and temperature environment. But for proper and efficient operation of the system, it is necessary to install temperature regulators.

Roof heating, installation, general overview of work

• it is necessary to make sure that all heating sections correspond to the area of ​​the roof heating zones, pieces of the required size are cut out of them, couplings are mounted, laid out and fastened;
• using strips of mounting tape, secure the electrical cable in the gutters across the gutter. To achieve maximum strength and durability of the structure, it is necessary to select thick mounting tape. The installation step of the tape for the resistive wire is 0.25 m, for the self-regulating wire - 0.5 m. When fastening the tape to the gutter with rivets, sealant is used as an additional fastening element;

• On the inside of the drain, the wires are secured with mounting tape or heat-shrinkable tubing. If the height of the drainpipes exceeds 6 m, then the wires are additionally mounted on a metal cable with an insulation sheath, which reduces the load-bearing load;
• the heating wire is mounted in the pipe mark and funnel with rivets and tape;
• Electrical wires are mounted to the roof with tape and sealant;
• fasten the mounting boxes, ring, determine the insulation resistance of the heating parts;
• install thermostat sensors, signal and power wires;
• install the control cabinet;
• measure resistance, ring power and signal wires;
• carry out monitoring of the protective shutdown device;
• adjust the thermostat;
• carry out commissioning and commissioning activities.

Step-by-step instructions for installing roof heating

1. Creation of a roof heating system project:

• zones that require heating are identified;
• the roof heating cable and control elements are selected;
• the location for installation of connection elements is determined;
• the number of electrical wires and the method of their installation are planned;
• system power, phases, circuit breakers are calculated;
• the method of installation of power wires is determined;
• automatic control panel equipment is selected.

2. Determination of areas for system installation:

• heating zones are the zones of the most massive collection of snow and ice masses on the roof; they are formed due to weather conditions, material and design of the roof. The most best scheme- heating of valleys, roof overhangs and gutters at the same time. It is a mistake to think that the price of roof heating will decrease if you lay wires only along the surface of the roof, since such a system is not enough for high-quality functioning. Ice jams often form in gutters and drainpipes, which prevent melt water from passing through.
• total length electric wire equals the area of ​​all roof parts that are selected for installation of heating elements. In structures with slopes located at an angle, where there is a danger of snow melting, it is necessary to install a snow retention system. The heating wires are installed in a zigzag pattern between the edge and the snow stopper system. Heating flat roof installation of such a system does not provide for and is limited to the installation of heating wires on gutters and pipes.

3. Wire selection:

• resistive wire is a product made of metal conductor and insulation, has a stable resistance value, heating and power. Another advantage of such a wire is its low price. The principle of its operation is that a metal core is heated under the influence of internal resistance. Most often, such wires are used to heat large areas of the roof and drainage structures. The best option is to lay a zonal resistive electrical wire with nichrome thread heating These wires have a power that does not depend on the length, that is, the material is cut into sections of any size;
• Self-regulating wire is considered more technologically advanced and consists of a matrix, insulation, braid and outer sheath. Its design includes a matrix that changes the resistance and heating level based on the indicator external temperature. If the air temperature rises, then the number of conductive paths in the matrix decreases, thereby reducing the power of the self-regulating wire;

• mixed type of wire is the best option in terms of quality and price. Most often, inexpensive, resistive type wires are purchased for heating the roof, while a self-regulating cable is installed on water drainage systems.

4. Components of the control system:

• a thermostat that has a heating system with the required temperature range, most often the range is -8 - +3°C;
• weather station - controls the temperature, the presence of precipitation on the roof and the process of its melting. It contains a temperature sensor and a humidity sensor in its design; there are models that have a precipitation and melting sensor in tandem.

5. Installation of cable and junction boxes:

• junction boxes are mounted in such a way that there is free space and access for carrying out technical work. Most often, the boxes are mounted on the roof, not far from the heating sections; installation on parapets, attics, fences, and under canopies is also allowed;
• To carry out the correct heating installation procedure, you must begin by calculating the length of the wire and determining the installation location. The length of the valley and the component parts of the system are measured, and the number and size of water drainage systems are calculated. The calculations use the following ratio: for every 100-150 mm of gutter, a power of 30-60 W per meter is required; for a gutter thickness of 150 mm, a power of 200 W per m2 is selected;

• wires are installed in water drainage gutters and areas around them. Their length is calculated based on the drawings - the length of the water drainage gutters is taken into account and about 10% is left in reserve. The number of wire threads depends on the width of the gutter, the specific power is 400 W/m. The wires are mounted with rivets and tape;
• Wires are also laid on eaves, water drainage funnels and pipes. For waste systems, self-regulating wires are used; if a resistive wire is installed, then separators are installed between the threads to prevent contact. The distance between each separator is 25-30 cm, the number of threads is selected based on the diameter of the water drainage pipes, their material and climate;
• wires are laid on drainage trays, water collectors, valleys and joints of individual roof parts. The number of mounted wire threads ranges from 2 to 4, the wire in the valleys is fixed from below and above with a cable and tape;

• power is calculated according to standard indicators, which are 18-22 W per meter for resistive wires, 15-30 W per linear meter for self-regulating wires. If the water drainage system is made of polymer, then the cable power is taken no higher than 17 W per linear meter, in which case the drainage system will not deteriorate when using the system;
• the supply wire is routed based on the requirements of the PUE, which depend on the installation conditions;
• to protect against electric shock, an RCD leakage block I ut=30 mA is installed;
• for the installation of a roof heating system, the heating slope is insulated without holes; for this purpose, an aluminum tape is used, which is attached along the entire length and pressed tightly to the roof;
• If the roof is not equipped with a water drainage system, then a “dripping edge” scheme is installed on a structure with a slight slope, and a “dripping loop” with a large slope.

At making the right choice the steepness of the slopes, roofs made of flexible tiles do not need snow removal. However, in areas with high level precipitation, frequent thaws and frosts turn snow layers into ice blocks that clog the drainage system and deform the upper layers of the roofing pie. In addition, the melting of ice can lead to serious injuries to people passing under the cornice.

To avoid leaks, damage to coatings and other undesirable phenomena, it is recommended to install heating systems. Their installation is done after laying the top layer of the roofing pie and installing the gutters.

The need to install heating systems is determined by the steepness of the slopes, the type of rooms under the attic, and the configuration of the gutters. Ice and large accumulations of snow form on the following types of roofs:

• Roofs over heated attics or attics. Warm air rises and heats the coating. Snow lying on a warm surface partially melts, finishing coating an ice crust forms. With good thermal insulation, heating systems on such roofs are configured for short-term operation. This is enough to ensure that the snow melts and moisture is removed through the gutters.
• Roofs with a slight slope. Gentle slopes are places where snow and ice accumulate. Installation of heating systems on such roofs is highly recommended. In addition, it is necessary to provide drainage funnels and enhanced waterproofing in the most problematic areas.
• Rooftops combined type. Multi-pitched roofs with flat horizontal platforms, towers, and internal corners are also highly susceptible to ice formation. Gutters on such roofs must be capable of removing water, and installation of electric heating is also recommended to speed up the rate of snow melting.

Roofs above uninhabited cold attics do not require anti-icing installation. This is only necessary in areas with high rainfall and low slopes. Heating elements are installed near eaves, in gutters and downpipes.

Hazards of Icing

Accumulations of snow and ice lead to:

To increase the load on load-bearing structures, other roofing elements. Under the weight of the snow and ice cap, the rafter frame may break, the base and finishing coating may be damaged and deformed. To mechanical damage to the top layer. The melting of icy snow can damage and tear off shingles and remove mineral chips from the surface of shingles. Causes injury to people and damage to vehicles. The sudden fall of icicles and ice blocks can cause serious injury to passersby and pose a danger to parked and arriving cars. To rupture of drainpipes and accumulation of water on roofs. When water freezes, it expands greatly, damaging pipes and gutters. Ice dams prevent the timely outflow of water and promote leaks at joints and abutments to roofing elements.

It is not always possible to regularly clean snow; in addition, when cleaning using a mechanical method, it is easy to damage bitumen shingles. Installing an anti-icing system extends the life of the roof and reduces repair costs.

Composition of a roof heating system

Anti-icing systems consist of the following elements:

• Heating cable.

The heating element cores are made of metal with high electrical resistance or semiconductor material. There are resistive and self-regulating cables. Heaters of the first type have a constant temperature. Semiconductor heating cables change resistance depending on their own temperature.

• Temperature and precipitation sensors.

These elements form a signal to turn on the system when set temperature and moisture detection.

• Controller based thermostat.

The device provides setting of switching temperature, time and operating modes. It is obvious that at -100 C the operation of heaters is impractical. The thermostat is set to turn on at the temperature of melting snow on the surface and according to a signal from the water sensor.

• Mounting and electrical installation products.

These include sealed cable couplings of special design, distribution boxes, fasteners, RCDs and other devices.

There are various types de-icers, from the simplest heating cables with manual activation to devices that are integrated into systems “ smart home” and can be controlled fully automatically or from a mobile application.

Requirements for roof heating systems

When designing anti-icing systems, the following requirements must be taken into account:

• Heating cables must be certified according to standards fire safety. For anti-icing systems, heating elements are selected for external installation. They have a sealed shell and a reinforcing braid.
• The system must be equipped with RCDs or automatic circuit breakers to protect against leakage currents and short circuits.
• The system must have a sensor and an adjustable switch on and off depending on the temperature of the air and the surface of the coating.
• Heating elements are installed along the entire water removal path, including collection trays and drainpipes.
• All electrical elements of the roof heating system must have a dust and moisture protection level of at least IP66.

Heating elements are placed on flat areas, at the junctions of roof slopes of complex configurations. In most cases, it is sufficient to install heating cables along eaves, in downpipes and inside gutters.

The total power is selected according to the table

Location of heating cables	The total power of the heating cable on the roof above an unheated attic. W/m2, W/m	Total power of the heating cable on the roof above the warm room W/m2, W/m	Specific power of the heating cable W per linear meter
Along the cornice and valley	180-300	300-400	15–50
Plastic trays	30-40	40-50	15–50
Metal gutters	30-40	50-70	15–50
Drainpipes	40-50	50-70	15–50

The table shows approximate values ​​for the temperate climate zone. When designing anti-icing, it is necessary to take into account the average annual precipitation level and daily temperature difference.

Anti-icing installation

The cables are laid along the eaves in a snake pattern, the height of one turn is 50-120 cm. It is important not to damage the current-carrying conductors; the bending radius must be at least 5 cm. The pitch of the turns is selected based on the thermal power of the heating element. The lower part of the loop is lowered into the gutter. If there is no tray, the lower edge of the coil should protrude 5-6 cm beyond the edge of the overhang. Melt water will drain directly from the cable.

A heating element is also placed at the bottom of the gutter. The lower edges of the turns and the cable located in the tray are connected with clamps.

The most problematic places on complex roofs are valleys and internal corners at the junctions of slopes. 2 cable lines are installed there for a length of at least 2/3 of the total height. This will prevent the formation of ice dams that impede the flow of moisture.

If the specific power of the cable is small or the width of the drainage trays is more than 20 cm, the number of lines in the gutters or trays can be increased. The thermal power of the heating elements in these places should be 50-70 W per meter.

Drains and downspouts are also susceptible to ice buildup. If there is excessive melting of snow followed by frosts, their rupture and deformation are possible. Pipes up to 10 cm are protected with one line of heating cable, which is placed inside. Larger diameter drains require 2 lines. In the lower part of the pipe and in the drainage funnel, the heating wire is laid in coils around the perimeter; these places require additional heating.

The cable is fixed along the eaves using special clips or aluminum mounting tape with clamps, which are secured with self-tapping screws or roofing nails. The fixation points are treated with sealant.

For cable installation on soft roofs, it is preferable to use tape with a bitumen adhesive layer. This mounting product is securely fixed to the shingles and prevents leaks.

The cable inside the drainpipe is secured to the walls with metal clamps. When the pipe length is more than 3 m, a support cable is used, which protects the line from breakage. To fix the heating cable inside the gutters, special mounting clamps are used, which are secured along the edges of the tray.

The cable is connected to the power line through a junction box or heat-shrink sleeve. The protection class of the electrical installation product must be at least IP66. The boxes are mounted on the wall under the eaves.

Protection against short circuits and leakage currents is provided by RCDs or differential circuit breakers with an operating value of no more than 30 mA. The protection elements are placed in the distribution panel. After installation, the anti-icing system is tested. At the same time they check correct operation temperature sensors, control unit, protection activation.

Attention! When installing roof heating systems, it is necessary to strictly follow the general electrical safety rules and the requirements of the heating cable manufacturer. An anti-icing system will help you avoid many problems and save on roof repairs.

Installation of the cable and the entire heating system for the roof and gutters will save you from many of the difficulties associated with seasonal snow removal from the roofs. Removing snow from a roof or icicles from gutters on your own is quite a labor-intensive task. In addition, such actions can cause damage to the roofing or lead to deformation of the elements of the drainage system. And the fact that the accumulation of icicles or snow falling from the roof threatens the life and health of people around us goes without saying.

The Stroy Roofing company carries out roof heating work. Roof heating using a cable system – perfect way to get rid of snow accumulations and spring pools from the roof. Cable roof heating will allow you to save on repairing the roofing or replacing the drainage system. To find out the current cost, call us or leave a request on the website.

HEATING DRAINS

Heating of the drain with a cable system must be carried out so that water flows directly along the cable. If the heating cable is placed above the drain, then the melt water will freeze, flowing down the roof slope, leading to the formation of icicles.

To get rid of ice and snow, it is not necessary to install a heating system over the entire surface of the roof. Our experts place the cable at the bottom of the gutter, near the funnel and inside the downspout. A heated drain will get rid of ice and icicles, and will also partially prevent the accumulation of snow on the roof of the house. Ordering a gutter heating device is very easy - just write to us or call.

COST OF INSTALLATION OF HEATING ROOF AND GUTTERS

• features of roofing material,
• roof structure,
• the total area of ​​the roof and drainage system where the system will be installed,
• type and power of heating cable,
• heating control system and additional equipment.

Thanks to low prices, heating the roof from snow is much more profitable than heating it mechanical cleaning. When placing an order for a service, an estimate is drawn up and all items are agreed upon with the customer. To preview current prices, you can view the company’s price list for the sale of equipment and system installation services.

Gable

Hip (1.2)

Difficult (1.5)

Roof heating installation: cost of installing a heating cable for a roof

The company "StroyKrovlya" offers installation services for roof heating according to favorable prices in Moscow and the Moscow region.

How to heat the roof and gutters?

A little theory

Gradual and timely melting of snow can be ensured using an anti-icing system, the main elements of which are:

1. The part responsible directly for heating is special heating cables for heating gutters and roofs, as well as a set of fastenings for them for different types coatings.
2. A system of sensors, protective (residual shutdown device) and starting equipment responsible for heating control.
3. A network of power and operational conductors designed to supply power directly to the heating part of the system, as well as connecting thermostats and sensors.

Which cable to choose?

To install heating systems, two main types of conductors are used - resistive and self-regulating.

Resistive is very similar in structure to a typical two-core power cable. It consists of several layers of insulation, inside of which there are heating conductors isolated from each other, connected to the power circuit. The temperature to which the wire warms up is always constant, as is the useful power and resistance value. The photo below shows its structure:

A self-regulating heating conductor for heating roofs and gutters is produced using a special technology and, based on its name, is capable of independently adjusting the heating temperature. This is possible due to its special structure. It consists of a matrix (it itself regulates the degree of heating depending on the ambient temperature, therefore changing the resistance) and external insulation, with an insulating shell and braiding inside. The photo below shows what the wire consists of:

To decide on the choice of heating element for the system, let’s look at their advantages and disadvantages. Thus, a resistive conductor is significantly cheaper in cost than a self-regulating one. However, the latter will allow you to automatically adjust to the desired temperature of the drains, as a result of which there is no need to use temperature sensors.

So what choice should you make? It is rational to use both types of elements when installing heating gutters and roofs. Their combined use reduces the overall cost of the project and has a positive effect on the final quality of the system. It is customary to use resistive elements for roofs, and self-regulating elements for drainage systems.

Power calculation

Let's say we have a horizontal hanging gutter on our roof, 11 m long and 15 cm in diameter, and a vertical drain pipe with a diameter of 90 mm and a length of 15 m.

Calculation of the required length:

• the length of the gutter is 11 m, respectively, multiplying it by 2 (2 cables need to be laid in the gutter), we get a total of 22 m;
• the length of the sewer pipe is 15 m - here one wire is enough for heating, that is, multiply by 1, we get 15 m;
• The total length is 22 m + 15 m = 37 m.

• for these conditions, the power is 25 W per linear meter;
• the total power of the system is equal to the product of the wire length and the calculated power - 37 m * 25 W/m = 925 W.

How to install the system?

In order to be fully equipped to begin installing the system, let’s look at a clear example of a roof and gutters heating scheme and stick to a certain sequence.

First, we select the location for installing the automation and control system indoors. Often the main controller and protection devices must be located near the distribution panel. This is done for ease of installation, and allows you to reduce the length of cable and wire routes and increase the reliability of the circuit. Connecting the controller will not be difficult, since all its pins and terminals are signed and marked. A person who is familiar with the basics of electrical wiring and knows how to handle a tool will quickly find his bearings and do such work with his own hands.

The installation of a heating cable in gutters should be considered based on the fact that it is divided into four component parts (gutter, waste pipe, funnel and water inlet), each of which must be heated. First, you need to feed a loop of wire into the drainpipe and screw it into the water inlet using steel clamps. Then we attach the cable to the bottom of the drain pipe as high as possible, placing it at a distance of 5 cm from each other in the part of the pipe located closer to the house (melt water usually flows through it). In the same way we attach the conductor at the top near the bottom of the funnel. It is important that if the pipe consists of several collapsible parts, then in each of them it is necessary to organize an intermediate fastening of the heating system. In the funnel, the cable is laid in the shape of a ring and screwed with clamps in this position. Let's move on to the gutter. In it, the wires need to be placed on opposite side surfaces. Next, the ends are connected to the terminals in the distribution junction box.

Advice! The self-regulating conductor does not have to be laid in a loop. Installation into one core is suitable, the end of which is insulated with a special plug.

As an example of installing a heating element, let's take a flat roof. The cable is laid in the lower part along the perimeter of the water drainage line and is laid in the internal funnel of the drain at a distance of 400 mm, if the drain pipe is located in the building. If the pipe is installed outside, then a “dripping loop” scheme is used. In places where the parapet and roof touch, the laid conductor should have a power of about 60-70 W/m2. It is also necessary that a wire be laid around the heated funnel at a distance of 2 m as shown in the figure below:

The sequence of cutting the heating wire is shown in the photo:

Finally, when the previous stages are completed, the control system for heating gutters and roofs is connected to the heating elements using power cables through adapters distribution boxes. Also, all the necessary sensors and protection equipment are connected.

That's all I wanted to tell you about how to heat the roof and gutters with your own hands. We hope that the instructions provided were useful and interesting for you!

Heating of roofs and gutters

Step-by-step instructions for installing a heating system for gutters and roofs. A video tutorial that discusses the correct connection of a heating cable on the roof.

Roof heating installation

Installing roof heating is a rather complex and responsible task, the implementation of which should be entrusted to specialists. In this case, the system is guaranteed to be reliable, safe and as efficient as possible. Errors made during the installation process can lead to poor quality work system or to its imminent failure.

First of all, detailed design is carried out, including:

• Identification of areas requiring heating.
• Selecting the type of heating electric cable and control system.
• Definition required quantity cable, as well as the method of its installation.
• Determining the installation location of terminal boxes and control cabinet.
• Calculation of the total power of the system, selection of power cable and RCD.
• Selection of equipment for the control cabinet.

When ordering roof heating installation services from a contractor, the contractor prepares a set of design documentation.

Features of choosing the localization of the heating cable

Roof heating system parameters and location heating cable determined depending on the type and design of the roof. The optimal option includes simultaneous heating of valleys, roof overhangs and gutters. You should not refuse to install cables in gutters, since snow and ice jams often form in the drainage system, preventing its normal operation.

For each roof, due to the wide variety of shapes and types of roofs, the layout and method of cable laying is determined individually. If the roof is well insulated, then the heating cable can only be installed in the water drainage system. On such a roof, snow usually melts immediately over the entire surface (during the thaw period), in contrast to a poorly insulated roof heated by a heated room. If the roof is poorly insulated, then the heating cable is additionally installed at the very edge of the roof - in places with the greatest likelihood of ice formation.

If there is no drainage system, the heating cable is installed using the following diagrams:

• “dripping edge” - for roofs with a slight slope;
• “dripping loop” - for roofs with a large slope.

If the roof has a steep slope, then in order to prevent an avalanche of snow and ice, snow retainers should be installed. Here the heating cable is mounted in loops between its edge and the protective fence.

Main places for laying the heating cable

The electric heating cable is laid:

• in gutters;
• on the eaves;
• in drainpipes and funnels;
• in drainage trays and water collectors;
• on valleys and at junctions of individual parts of the roof.

When creating a system, the determining factor is the specific power per 1 sq.m. (for a drainage system - specific power per 1 linear meter). To achieve the required system parameters, the cable can be laid in loops with a certain fixation step. For soft roofs and drainage systems made of plastic, a cable with a power density of up to 20 W/m should be used. For other types of roofing - up to 25 W/m.

During installation, the heating cable is fixed in place using special fasteners. Depending on the situation, a mesh with clamps, metal (stainless) mounting tape or steel (galvanized), copper, or brass clamps can be used. They provide reliable and neat fixation, both in relation to the roof (do not require drilling holes) and in relation to the cable itself. It is important to use quality clamps and perform them correct installation so as not to exert high pressure on the electrical wire. Compression at one point can lead to breakdown of the entire system (or a separate segment).

The gutter is a horizontal part of the drainage system. In it, the heating cable is laid in one or several parallel lines and fixed with a metal mounting tape. In gutters with a diameter of less than 120 mm, up to two cable cores are installed, in wider ones - 4-5 wires.

Drainpipes

These pipes represent the vertical part of the drainage system. When organizing a heating system in them, one should take into account the uneven distribution of heat along the entire length of the pipe. Upper part heats up more intensely due to rising warm air from the lower part, as well as under the influence of sunlight. For this reason bottom part pipes should be additionally insulated by increasing the number of cable turns. The wire is fixed with the same fastenings as in the gutters.

If the height of the drainpipe is more than 2 m, then to reduce the load on the cable, a supporting steel cable in a plastic sheath is used.

When laying the heating cable in gutters and pipes, it is necessary to ensure that the conductors do not contact each other.

When designing a roof heating system, you should choose the right locations for installing terminal boxes - they should be located close to the heating sections and be easily accessible for maintenance.

A properly organized roof heating system will eliminate the formation of ice and icicles on the roof in any weather conditions, which will greatly simplify its maintenance in the winter!

Installation of heated floors from the company "Teplokabel-M"

If you have already purchased a heated floor kit, it is better to entrust the installation to professionals. The complex design of the heating system requires a careful, precise approach to installation. By ordering installation from the Teplokabel company, you will save time and receive a quality guarantee for the work.

The Teplokabel-M company has been professionally installing cable heating systems in houses, apartments, on roofs and in open areas for 15 years.

The company manager will come to inspect the property for FREE and identify the areas required to install a heating system. On the spot, he will calculate the cost of cable heating and announce the full cost of the work. If the calculation cannot be made on site, the manager will announce the cost in 1-2 days.

The main task when carrying out work is to determine the cause of ice formation on the roof, and not to lay out the cable along the perimeter of the roof. The accumulated experience of electricians will allow us to complete work on installing a heating system in a short time.

The company has a permit from a self-regulatory organization to carry out work in this area, and its employees have the necessary permits for steeplejack and electrical work. Installation work at sites is carried out on the basis of a Contract Agreement, which includes an Estimate and, if necessary, a heating cable layout diagram.

A test run of the heating system is carried out after installation. If no comments are identified during the tests, the Acceptance Certificates for completed work are signed in the form KS2, KS3.

For each cable heating system, the Customer is issued with as-built documentation consisting of:

• copies of certificates for equipment and materials;

Laboratory tests are carried out if necessary and are paid separately.

All about modern electric heating systems for roofs, roofing and gutters

Along with the first invigorating frost, the Russian winter brings many problems: tons of snow on the roofs, ice and icicles falling on your head. But ice on the roof is not only a risk for people standing below to get seriously injured, but also the constant destruction of gutters and roof gutters. Not to mention the fact that large overloads of snow or ice can even create distortions and destruction of the roof. Arm yourself with a shovel or install professional heating for the roof of your home? Let's decide together!

Designing an anti-icing system is a fairly complex engineering task. It is important to consider many factors here, ranging from the configuration of the roof to the location of all protrusions and canopies. But by approaching this process responsibly and carefully studying this article, you will be able to install the cable on the roof of your house yourself.

Happiness on your head, or where do the icicles on the cornice come from?

Are you interested in knowing why icicles form on the edge of the roof? And where do they even come from in winter, because for this the snow needs to melt?

The thing is that snowflakes, falling on a relatively warm roof, melt and simply flow down. Gradually they overcome a surface that is warmer in temperature and end up on a completely cold cornice, which is located outside the building and no longer receives heat from it. This is where the water freezes, forming large icicles. And they are already causing us so many problems.

The formation of an “ice shell” on the roof indicates the presence of a serious temperature difference between the heated part of the roof and the unheated eaves. And there may be several reasons for this.

Reason #1. Incorrect thermal insulation

Note that they were put on the roof - most often due to improper insulation. So, if the heat loss of a house largely goes through the roof (due to the lack of normal thermal insulation), then this same heat slightly melts the snow on the roof. And that, as you already understand, creates the main problems.

And, if ice on the roof is a sign that the roofing pie was designed incorrectly, then literally in two or three years all this will come out sideways: rotting insulation, mold on the walls and the smell of dampness. That is why, ideally, a properly equipped roof does not need heating, because... ice does not form on it. Unless the weather is crazy.

Reason #2. Climate Features

According to the meteorologist, during the winter in Russia, on average, up to 70 temperature jumps over the 0°C mark are recorded! But such fluctuations are precisely what cause the most problems. So, the air quickly heats up and cools quickly, the snow begins to melt - and immediately turns into ice.

Severe frosts overnight give way to a thaw, and then unexpected sub-zero temperatures. Is this a familiar picture? Is this what the weather is like in that area? Thaws are especially problematic when in one day outside temperature can easily be on both sides of the zero mark. As a result, the snow on the roof melts during the day and quickly freezes at night.

Reason #3. Complex design roofs

Popular roof turrets, internal corners, collars and horizontal platforms add their own complexity. All of them form additional snow cover, which causes even more problems. That’s why designers recommend for Russian latitudes to give preference to a simple roof shape with an angle of inclination of 30°, but in Europe let them fantasize, they don’t have that much snow.

Why is all this dangerous for the roof?

So why be afraid? Already the first water frozen on the cornice forms an ice dam, in front of which water continues to accumulate. According to invisible physical laws, the liquid now begins to move up the seams of roofing joints, just as water moves in communicating vessels (these are the ones used as construction hydraulic levels). And this in turn becomes the cause of leaks!

Moreover, ice manages to form not only on the roof, but also in gutters, and even in vertical drainpipes. And, if the melt water no longer has a way out due to the gutter clogged with ice, it begins to flow under the roofing. And there moisture will always find a way out to the insulation and the internal space: holes on the waterproofing film after the stapler, small tears, damage, joints with roofing elements. The result is rotten rafters, damp insulation and the proliferation of fungus throughout the attic.

In addition, if you have ever encountered broken gutters, know that this is the work of ordinary rain and melted snow when there is no protective system anti-icing.

Also, if there is no snow on the roof, because... it constantly thaws and slides down, then the roofing itself will eventually be subject to constant cycles of freezing and thawing. And this is a noticeable reduction in the life of the roofing. Moreover, the soft roof suffers the most, as it loses its stone chips and clogs the drains with it, ceramic tiles bursts, and under roll roofing As a result, water flows in. Even metal is torn by ice.

That is why heating of roofs is necessary for any building, and not just where icicles threaten to fall on the heads of city residents. Moreover, modern technical solutions are quite simple and accessible to everyone.

Why not just dump the snow?

Note that it is still actively used today mechanical method To combat ice and icicles, use a shovel, a crowbar and a scraper. It would seem that it would be simpler: knock all this wealth off the roof, and you’re done. No electrical systems, cables or hot water pipes are needed. But in fact, the disadvantages of this method completely cover all its advantages:

• Frozen ice clogs gutters and ruins gutters.
• When cleaning the roof, it is easy to scratch the roof covering, which will quickly lead to corrosion.
• When clearing snow, a person often slides off the roof along with it.

In addition, ice drains themselves are dangerous. They become too heavy and at one moment they can simply collapse on the heads of people standing nearby. And this is not to mention the costly repairs that can await you.

Why install heating and what options are there?

There are three reasons to install a special heating system on the roof:

1. Safety of people, animals and personal property that may fall into the area under icicles and ice blocks. Agree, it’s a shame not only to get a concussion from a rolling ice block, but also to damage your favorite car.
2. Reducing the weight load on the roof and the entire building that ice can create.
3. Preserving the integrity of the roof and drainage system, protection from destruction due to the formation of ice.

But let's understand some individual concepts.

Roofs on which both snow and ice melt at a temperature of -10°C are called “warm”. This is where they have problems with icing and cannot do without additional heating. If the ice on the roof melts at an even lower temperature, such a roof is called “hot”, and a conventional cable heating system may no longer be sufficient.

In order to get rid of ice on the roof, the following methods are used today:

• The rarest type of roof heating today is electric pulse systems. They require expensive equipment, which pays for itself only in a few years, due to fairly low electricity consumption. But gutters and drains cannot be protected from ice in this way.
• Roof heating with a heating cable is the most modern and safe way getting rid of ice. This system is convenient for heating not only the edge of the roof, but also gutters and drains, even of the most complex design.
• The third method is to apply special emulsions to the roof that prevent icing. But emulsions are not cheap, and they need to be applied to the roof several times in one winter.

The most popular is electric heating of the roof and attached gutters, which will be discussed further.

Installation of electric heating of roofs and gutters

So, the simplest and most popular solution to the problem is to warm up the eaves with a snake. For 1 meter of cornice you will need to install 6-8 meters of cable to achieve a power of about 180 W/m for the same square.

There is also a more economical solution developed by some modern companies: sheets of copper or steel are mounted under the cable, which is less efficient. It is enough for such an installation to operate with a power of 30 W/m, because heat will be distributed from the cable over 25-30 cm. In total, energy consumption will be reduced by 6-8 times, which is quite significant for a private home. Note that such heating systems are also much more fireproof.

The essence of this system

The roof heating system consists of the following elements:

1. Heating cable.
2. Automation.
3. Additional elements for fastening.
4. Electricity distribution network.

The heart of the heating cable is the heating matrix, and different manufacturers give different service life.

Selection of necessary equipment

Difficult automatic system involves the placement of sensors in the most critical places that can monitor the temperature and automatically turn on the heating when there is a danger of ice formation. Moreover, they can monitor not only temperature, but also humidity. That is why the automatic system, although it is 20% more expensive than a conventional resistive cable, saves electricity itself.

But for the question of which cable is better - resistive or self-regulating - there is no clear answer. The fact is that on roofs of a simple design it is more economical to install a resistive cable, because it does not require complex automation: we simply adjust the cable system to the desired temperature range. But the roofs with different slopes, skylights and other structural elements, the resistive system is no longer effective - a self-regulating one is needed. Although a self-regulating cable can also be cut into pieces directly during installation, why not the entire heating system It's much easier to design with.

Of course, there are often situations when it is necessary to combine two entire systems on one roof in order to achieve the desired result.

Installation subtleties

It is better to mount the heating system in warm time year. Next, we will talk about heating flat and pitched roofs separately.

Flat roof heating

The simplest heating is for a flat roof with parapets and internal funnels. In this case, it is enough to heat only the funnels or drainpipes themselves.

Here the cable must be installed in all external pipes. If there is overflow from different levels of the roof, then we heat both the overflow area and the likely path of melt water to the closest water intake.

Heating of a pitched roof

The heating cable must be laid in all gutters and drainpipes around the perimeter of the roof. Additionally, you can install a heating system in problem areas such as the valley and difficult parts of the roof.

If there is no drainpipe or gutter along the edge of the roof, then we simply hang one thread of cable under the roof - it will “cut off” the icicles.

Note that hanging gutters need to be heated less than built-in ones - just take this into account when designing your house.

In addition, it is safer to fasten the cable to a special tape that keeps the roofing intact:

How to choose quality components?

There are two main indicators that characterize the quality of a heating cable. So, this is the power at rest, which is measured at an air temperature of 0°C, and the operating power, which is measured in ice, at its temperature of 0°C. Typically, manufacturers indicate both of these indicators directly on the heating cable.

Unfortunately, power always decreases over time, and the worse the quality of the cable, the faster. And reducing the power of the heating cable always leads to the fact that the heating system copes with its functions worse and worse. Only the most expensive cables are capable of not changing their power for 10 years.

But take into account such subtleties. Thus, a foreign manufacturer usually indicates the cable power at a mains voltage of 240V, whereas in Russia it is 220V. This means that the power of such a cable is actually less than 10%, which is important for accurate calculations. Therefore, it is better to purchase heating cables from companies that also develop their products specifically for Russia. Note that designers often play it safe and advise the buyer to install a more powerful cable than is necessary.

For your own safety, try to use original components from the same manufacturer as the cable. Moreover, this must be demanded from suppliers who always strive to save money. It’s even better to contact the official representative directly: they can be easily found on the Internet and you can immediately order professional installation from them.

It is important that the outer sheath of the cable is resistant to ultraviolet rays and does not deteriorate over time.

The main thing is to avoid mistakes!

Now let's look at all the most annoying mistakes in installing a heating cable, which can easily lead to problems.

Mistake #1. Rough installation

If you fasten the cable carelessly, it can easily be broken in several places. Because of this, the entire heating system is eventually destroyed.

Mistake #2. Mobility

If the cable is movable due to the fact that it is attached only to the mounting tape, it will not last even two years. And all because it will constantly be subject to mechanical impact from snow and ice.

Mistake #3. Incorrect fasteners

Heating cables for roofs cannot be secured with tape, which is used for installing heated floors. The clamps used are completely unsuitable for fastening the cable, and easily unbend under the pressure of sliding snow. Why then are clamps used for floors? This is a temporary measure, and their function ends when the floors are filled with cement screed.

A special one is also not suitable for this purpose. plastic fastener for cables, if it is mounted with a click. In a few years, such a fastening will crumble due to fragility due to ultraviolet rays. And even more so, you cannot attach white plastic ties - only black ones, and only from a good manufacturer. Conventional ties not for roofing are, of course, cheaper, and visually hold the cable no worse, but they will not last more than one winter.

Mistake #4. Excess of mounting holes

Any hole in the roof, even one that is well sealed with sealant, begins to leak over the years. Therefore, it is absolutely wrong to strive to secure the cable as tightly as possible.

Mistake #5. Incorrect cable insulation

If a heat-shrink tube is installed on the tip of the heating cable and crimped with pliers, then when the wire is heated, the tightness will be lost. Can you imagine the consequences?

Mistake #6. No cable

The heating cable, of course, can be lowered into the drainpipe without a cable, but thermal expansion and the weight of the ice will do their job - the system will break.

Mistake #7. Using the wrong cable

Power cables that are not specifically designed for installation on the roof cannot be used: the system will constantly turn off, and it is possible that those who touch it will receive an electric shock.

There is also no need to place the cable where it is not needed - on the roof railing, for example. This is just an extra waste of energy, and nothing more.

Heating of roofs, roofing and gutters: types, design, installation rules

All about modern systems heating of the roof and the reasons for the formation of ice on the roof. How to properly organize electric heating of the roof and gutters.

Roof heating systems aimed at de-icing surfaces and ensuring unhindered drainage of melt water have not yet received proper distribution in our country. This is as it should be, based on the characteristics of our climate.

In our time, when the trend towards energy saving has acquired, where due to poverty, where due to greed, almost pathological features, up to cutting out sections of heating radiators in the entrances of high-rise buildings, bear additional costs Few people are ready to heat the roof. However, the trend is gradually gaining momentum among owners of manor houses.

The logic of roof heating is very simple: no matter how you insulate the attic, some of the heat is still transferred to the roof, and its temperature will always be higher than the ambient air temperature. As a result, ice forms, which destroys roofing elements, clutters drains, threatens the premises of the house with leakage and forms icicles that are dangerous to life and health. Installation of an electric heating system for roofs and gutters is one of the main ways to solve the above problems.

Video: Heating of roofs and gutters

We make our own roof heating system, roof heating cable

If you do not resort to the services of specialized companies, but do the installation yourself, you will have to worry about careful calculations of the upcoming work, or even draw up real design and estimate documentation. Otherwise, there is a significant risk of wasting money, effort, time, regularly paying increased electricity bills and not achieving the desired result. Considering that heat cable is often sold in sections of a given length, measurements of future work surface should be done especially carefully.

Heating the roof does not make sense if you heat the entire roof - it is enough to focus on problem areas: the edge of the roof, drainage funnels, drains, etc. When calculating power, you should proceed from standard indicators. Depending on the type of cable (which will be discussed later), the power is 15-30 W per 1 meter of cable.

When installing heating of polyethylene gutters, the maximum power should not exceed 17 W/m in order to avoid deformation of structures. When laying the cable in a drainpipe, its diameter must be at least 7 cm, which corresponds to the minimum radius of natural bending of the cable.

The heat cable is laid so that the water completely leaves the heated surface. Connecting heat cable fragments to each other using couplings; on finished sections they are already installed by the manufacturer. Connection to the power supply system - three-phase power cable.

Particular attention is paid to the roof edge and natural water drainage areas. In all other respects, the recommendations for installation are of the most general order: avoid cable kinks and excessive tension, mechanical stress. And, of course, don’t forget about grounding!

How to choose a roof heating cable

For installation of electric heating systems, resistive, self-regulating cables, as well as their combination, are used. They are sold both in coils and in the form of assembled sections with couplings and connecting wire, ready for installation.

Resistive cable T2Blue

There is a modified variety of resistive cables called zone cables. Their peculiarity is the presence of two additional conductive wires and a nichrome spiral wound around them. In case of overheating, only part of the working elements fails, the rest remain operational.

Self-regulating cables are distinguished by the presence of a semiconductor matrix connecting two conductive cores. In addition, self-regulating cables contain a shielding sheath, most often made of foil. Thanks to the presence of two layers of insulation, the self-regulating cable has increased dielectric and mechanical strength. The cable matrix changes resistance depending on the ambient temperature. As the temperature rises, the resistance of the matrix increases, which leads to a decrease in cable heating. A self-regulating cable is easier to install, and its only significant drawback is its much higher price. Therefore, in a number of cases, the system is installed from different types of cables, depending on the installation location.

Thermostats and weather stations

The heating control system consists of a thermostat and a control unit connected to each other by signal wires. This device is equipped with temperature sensors on the heated surface. Installation is allowed either directly in work area, and in nearby protected places - under the canopy, eaves, in the attic. Access to the control system is made as convenient as possible. It should be remembered that the distance of the thermostat from the cable leads to a decrease in the accuracy of measurements and, accordingly, a deterioration in the operation of the system.

More expensive, reliable and efficient equipment for temperature control is a weather station. In addition to the temperature sensor, it is equipped with sensors for precipitation and the presence of moisture on the surface. The installation principles are similar. All this allows you to more finely regulate the heating control in automatic mode. For a system mounted from self-regulating cables, the option with a weather station is appropriate.

The temperature mode of the control system is set by the user. It is recommended to turn on anti-icing at roof temperatures from +2 - +3 degrees. up to -7 - -8 degrees. At lower temperatures, the operation of the system does not make much sense.

Mounting hardware for installation

Roof fastening elements consist of reinforcing mesh, anchor plates and self-adhesive tape. Cable strain limiters are sometimes used. The distance between fixation points should not exceed 30 centimeters. When using metal elements fastenings, it is necessary to pay special attention to the presence of an anti-corrosion coating: due to the nature of their use, the iron parts of the structure quickly rust.

Among the additional elements of the installation structure, we can note the cable for the cable in the gutters (routing is recommended if the length of the drain exceeds 6 meters); For flat roofs, where there is no risk of large masses of snow sliding and where it is necessary to accelerate the flow of melt water - a device known as a "dripping edge".

It is known that best criterion truth is practice. If, as a result of the measures taken, there is no risk of snow and icicles falling on your head, water does not flow into the attic, the roofing and drainage elements are intact, and the electricity bill has increased insignificantly, then everything has been done correctly.

Early spring and late autumn All homeowners are faced with the problem of freezing roof slopes and freezing melt water inside gutters. If it is not resolved in a timely manner, the safety of people, as well as the safety of their property, will be threatened by large icicles and frozen lumps of snow falling from the roof.

A good solution is to heat the gutters, which will prevent the formation of ice. In this material we will talk about why you need to equip your drainage system with heating. We will also talk about what materials are required for this and describe in detail the essence of the process.

During the winter months, frost and heavy rainfall prevail in most regions of our country. As a result, large amounts of snow accumulate on the roof. An increase in temperature provokes first their thawing, and later active thawing.

During the day, melted water runs down the edges of the roof and into the gutters. At night it freezes, which leads to the gradual destruction of roofing elements and gutters.

This picture is typical for the off-season. If you don't take action, ice and snow will fall to the ground. In this case, the facade, gutters, and cars parked below may be damaged.

Icicles and a conglomerate of frozen snow and ice accumulate at the edges of the roof. From time to time they fall down, threatening the safety of people below and their property, the integrity of the drainage system and the decorative elements of the facade.

All these troubles can be prevented only by ensuring the unhindered drainage of melted water. This is only possible if the edges of the roof are heated and.

It happens that in order to reduce the cost of the heating system, it is laid only on the roof surface. The owner is fully confident that this will be quite enough.

However, this is not true. The water will flow into gutters and pipes where it will freeze at the end of the day because there is no heating. The gutters will be clogged with ice, therefore they will not be able to accept melt water. In addition, there is a danger of mechanical damage.

So to get good result, heating of the roof and surrounding drains should be arranged. In most cases, the heating cable is mounted on roof eaves, inside gutters and funnels, at the joints of roof fragments, along valley lines.

In addition, heating must be present along the entire length of drainpipes, in catch basins and drainage trays.

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Heating system calculation

Experts advise choosing cables with a power of at least 25-30 W per meter for heating the roof and gutters. You need to know that both types of heating cables are used for other purposes. For arranging heated floors, for example, but their power is much lower.

Before you begin calculating power, you need to decide how all elements of the system will be heated. The figure shows examples of possible organization of heating gutters and drains

Power consumption is estimated in active mode. This is the period when the system operates at maximum load. It lasts in total from 11 to 33% of the entire cold period, which conventionally lasts from mid-November to mid-March. These are average values, they are different for each area. The power of the system needs to be calculated.

To determine it, you need to know the parameters of the drainage system.

Let us give an example of calculations for a standard design with a cross-section of a vertical drain of 80-100 mm, a gutter pipe diameter of 120-150 mm.

• It is necessary to accurately measure the lengths of all gutters for water drainage and add up the resulting values.
• The result must be multiplied by two. This is the length of the cable that will be laid along the horizontal section of the heating system.
• The length of all vertical drains is measured. The resulting values ​​are added together.
• The length of the vertical section of the system is equal to the total length of the gutters, since in this case one cable line will be sufficient.
• The calculated lengths of both sections of the heating system are added together.
• The result obtained is multiplied by 25. The result is the electric heating power in active mode.

Such calculations are considered approximate. Everything can be calculated more accurately if you use a special calculator on one of the Internet sites. If independent calculations complicated, it is worth inviting a specialist.

Choosing a place to lay the cable

Actually, the heating system for gutters is not that complicated, but in order for it to work as efficiently as possible, the cable should be laid in all areas where ice forms and in places where melted snow melts.

In roof valleys, the cable is installed down and up, extending over two-thirds of the valley. Minimum - 1 m from the beginning of the overhang. For each square meter The valley should have 250-300 W of power.

On flat areas of the roof, heating is installed for the roof fragment located directly in front of the catchment area. This way, melt water will freely flow into the pipe.

Along the edge of the cornice, the wire is laid in the form of a snake. Snake step for soft roofs– 35-40 cm, on hard roofs it is made a multiple of the pattern. The length of the loops is chosen in such a way that there are no cold zones on the heated surface, otherwise ice will form here. The cable is laid on the water separation line along the drip line. This can be 1-3 threads, the choice is made based on the design of the system.

The heating cable is installed inside the gutters. Usually two threads are laid here, the power is selected depending on the diameter of the gutter. One heating core is installed inside the drains. Particular attention should be paid to pipe outlets and funnels. This usually requires additional heating.

Heating system technology

We suggest you study detailed instructions for installing a heating system for roofs and gutters with your own hands. The process of installing a heating system for gutters includes a number of standard steps:

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