Where can condensation occur? Yes, anywhere - on a loggia, in a garage, in a bathhouse located in a utility yard.

What does this trouble indicate? Most often, it is that experts paid insufficient attention to the insulation of the roof or indoors. Increased humidity levels in a structure can also affect this process. As you know, drops appear when steam is combined with any objects or structures. The higher the humidity, the lower the temperature of the “dew point” - this is what condensation is popularly called.

The most common cause of condensation is high absolute humidity in the room.

What are the dangers of accumulation of water droplets? Of course, damage to the material and repair work, which, most likely, were produced not so long ago. Building structures regularly exposed to liquids become damp, covered with mold and other harmful bacteria, and also contribute to a significant deterioration of thermal insulation parameters.

In most cases, condensation settles on the ceiling in the corners of rooms, as well as in rooms that have reinforced concrete slats and ceilings, equipped with. Almost every owner of an apartment or cottage has seen “sweating” windows; condensation on double-glazed windows is a frequent guest, which is difficult to get rid of overnight. It also likes to settle on pipes, regardless of the material from which they are made.

Sometimes it is extremely difficult to avoid the appearance of condensation on the ceiling. You can protect yourself by carefully considering the ventilation ducts or air gap.

In order to answer the question “how to remove condensation from the ceiling”, it is necessary to correctly establish the reason that contributed to the appearance of condensation.

Why does condensation appear?

Possible reasons

The main reason for the appearance of condensation is low temperature surface, when combined with which the vapor contained in the air settles on the ceiling covering. Masters identify widespread root causes of the formation of excess moisture:

• poorly designed and ill-conceived ventilation design;
• absence or incomplete protection of the insulating layer;
• incorrect placement of insulating layers.

Despite the fact that every day construction market is expanding, new technologies for repair work are being created, and competition among specialists is growing, today construction is being practiced with all its might, which neglects the important requirements of development, for example, minimal openings are installed in houses to ensure ventilation.

This is explained by the fact that this technique allows you to save on heating for a cottage or high-rise building. The house is put into operation, the consumer pays for services and is faced with a problem that becomes his personal one. The excess liquid contained in the air is not able to penetrate through the tiny cracks, which means that it can only settle on.

Some buildings have no thermal insulation at all and lack the slightest moisture protection. Any temperature difference from outside entails the appearance of drops.

Condensation on the ceiling leads to the formation of mold and, consequently, to expensive repairs.

It also happens that the developer cheated when choosing insulation and deliberately used a cheap one, but poor quality material, subsequently leading to freezing ceiling covering and, accordingly, the formation of condensation. That is why, when purchasing a new home or building it, you should pay due attention to this problem. Remember that the microclimate in the room affects the health of the people living in it.

When, during repairs, some places are more insulated and protected, while others are not, a temperature difference is created, and condensation appears in the cold areas. Such flaws occur in houses where the roof is inclined at a large angle. Any, even the most, over time risks simply sliding down, which means that the above-mentioned cold spots will appear again.

How can you avoid an unpleasant situation?

Since many have already encountered condensation on the ceiling, experienced craftsmen We have identified a number of recommendations that will help those who have not yet suffered the fate of dealing with annoying moisture.

Experts advise:

1. Always check ventilation. By paying attention to this seemingly simple aspect, you will be convinced that most ventilation systems in city apartments they are not working at full capacity, and some are not working at all, and have been for a long time.
2. Determine the humidity level in the rooms. If the level exceeds the permitted 40%, drops are formed precisely for this reason.
3. Check the quality of the insulation and moisture insulation used. Eliminating this shortcoming will require much more costs; this process is labor-intensive and thorough.

If condensation has already appeared

What can you do?

When it is too late to take preventive measures, you need to act according to the situation.

Basically, high humidity is established in poorly ventilated areas. Condensation gets along well with the ceilings of cellars, small individual buildings or buildings like a barn or garage. A balcony in a city apartment is no exception.

First of all, we begin to isolate the finishing from the cooled floor. How can this be done?

1. We insulate with mineral wool.
2. We cover it with expanded clay.
3. We apply a layer of brick chips and its elements of fine structure and shape.
4. We install foam insulation.

Let's get started

The following materials will help remove condensation on the ceiling:

• polyethylene film, taking into account the perimeter of the room;
• galvanized iron to create an “umbrella”; By entering keywords in Google search, you can easily find detailed description and construction manufacturing techniques;
• plastic pipes, sewer pipes are also suitable.

The ceiling in buildings is most often built on a horizontal base; our goal is to achieve a certain angle of inclination so that drops can easily flow down from the surface. Depending on where the slope is located, you should arrange a so-called drain with access to the street, where a pre-installed container for collecting liquid is located. It is more convenient to build a small hole-ditch near the garage through which water will flow into the soil. It is also necessary to carry out the following activities:

• get to the insulation layer and carefully examine it; if it is damaged, torn, saturated with moisture and is constantly in a wet state, it’s time to remove it and install a new one, of better quality and wear-resistant;
• choosing new insulation, be sure to ask your sales consultant about the technical component, this information is contained in the documentation attached to the material; remember that not everyone thermal insulation products absorb excess liquid and dry quickly;
• a detached building can be covered on top with broken bricks, but in no case with crumbs;
• It is preferable to think about insulation;
• if moisture has penetrated into the inner layers of the finish, you will have to vacate the space right up to the concrete slab and thoroughly dry the ceiling area using special equipment designed just for such purposes - a heat gun;
• after insulation, the ceiling should be covered with sheets of expanded polystyrene; joints and seams between sheets are puttied; some try to use polystyrene foam, but it is completely unsuitable for solving the condensation problem.

Features of working with the ceiling on the balcony

For the loggia, you should purchase materials characterized by a low degree of vapor permeability. Expanded polystyrene is ideal in this case! In more severe climatic conditions panels with a thickness of 50–60 mm are used; southerners can afford to buy 30 mm slabs.

Vapor barrier is used to protect the finish from steam penetration, and therefore from condensation.

Expanded polystyrene is treated with glue, which is secured with dowels. Before applying the adhesive, it is advisable to reinforce the coating with a fiberglass mesh.

Conclusion

Now you know what to do if condensation begins to appear on the ceiling. Be vigilant, be attentive to your home and health, and get rid of excess moisture in the room in a timely manner!

From the author: We welcome you to our construction portal, dear readers. There is one extremely unpleasant problem In the rooms there is condensation on the ceiling. It occurs quite often, especially on the top floors apartment buildings. So one of my good friends encountered this problem and asked me to help him with it.

Source: toppotolok.su

Of course, I said that I would do everything myself, and I would not take money from him. It was inconvenient for him to use my services, so he asked me to tell him in detail what to do with this problem and how to do this work independently, so as not to bother me. I described everything to him at its best and I am telling you the same story today.

Revealing the essence of the problem

Source: potolokexpert.com

The fact is that the appearance of drops on the ceiling and dampness in the corners of the room, smoothly transferring to the surface of the ceiling, is not the result of harsh weather conditions or improper use of the living space.

Condensation is a consequence of too large a temperature difference in the room. There is such a thing - dew point. In fact, for any room there is no specific value for the difference at which condensation occurs. The dew point is a complex of circumstances, that is, reasons that result in the appearance of drops on the surface.

These reasons include: the rate of change in temperature outside the room, the rate of change in temperature inside the room, the saturation of the air with water vapor (that is, its humidity), the temperature in the room, air circulation and the speed of its flow. In general, this matter is complex and difficult to explain.

The main thing is for you to understand: it is impossible to specifically recreate such conditions. What do we mean? Typically, this phenomenon occurs at a time when the air temperature outside begins to drop, and intensive cooling of the building’s structural elements occurs.

But the temperature in the room does not change or becomes higher, because it is connected central heating, or you turn on the heaters. So, this temperature difference in itself does not cause anything, but air humidity does.

When water flows in your washbasin, when you water flowers, when there is a cup of tea on the table, when you wash dishes or do laundry, even when you breathe, you saturate the space around you with water vapor. A person is comfortable in a room with an air humidity of 60%, but if it is higher, for example, 85–90%, then it is bad for the lungs, and you will have difficulty breathing, especially older people. If it is lower, for example, 30%, the air will be dry, and this is also harmful to health.

In general, excessively humid or dry air is very bad, especially for children. And in any case, it is very difficult to influence this parameter; you need to connect either dehumidifiers or humidifiers. In any case, this is not advisable.

So, now to the very essence. The problem needs to be fixed once and for all, and quickly. Otherwise the wall will begin to rot. If we're talking about panel house from reinforced concrete structures, then everything is a little simpler. Well, if we’re talking about the Koteltsovy, where the wall thickness is 60 cm, then everything is very bad there. If the wall and ceiling get wet (and usually they get wet together), then everything needs to be dried, and this has to be done for at least 60 days, and sometimes 90.

And now about how to solve the problem: there is only one way to do this - and a wall. There is no other way out. But we are talking only about condensation caused by external influences. There is another case, which we will talk about now.

Condensation in the bathroom

Source: 1popotolku.ru

Sometimes, of course, everything is not as scary as described above. But only if we are talking about the bathroom. The process of moisture formation there is completely different. This phenomenon occurs only in unheated rooms, that is, if you do not have a heated towel rail or radiator installed, which is not just standing there for the sake of appearance and does not heat - there are also those with a temperature of 40-45 o C - this, of course, is not suitable.

All modern houses equipped with batteries. There are, of course, options with a dead-end system, which is just as ineffective. We're talking about bathrooms where the hot water supply to the faucet comes out of the riser, runs into the towel, and then into the faucet, meaning it only heats when you're using it. hot water. In general, this is impractical, and such a system should either be embedded in the heating circuit or completely dismantled.

Well, enough about that, let's get to the point. The bathroom is usually tiled. It is beautiful, and water is not scary for it, but there is still a minus. Any tile is made from clay, regardless of what the manufacturer claims. So that you understand, baked clay is the best of building materials conductor of heat. It is completely incapable of accumulating it and any heat it receives is immediately given back, just like a brick. If you have encountered it, then you know that this is the coldest of building materials; it is not able to retain a drop of heat.

Well, not only is the clay itself very cold, but also when you take a shower, or you just have a leak hot water, then steam comes out. It settles on your tile, then the water begins to evaporate from the tile and cools it even more.

As a result, we get very cold walls in the room, which almost form a refrigerator. It cools your ceiling, and as soon as you start using hot water, the air heats up, creating a difference, a dew point. And drops begin to hang from the ceiling.

There is no point in fighting this by insulating the walls, the nature of the formation is completely different, but here are the methods that can really help you:

• correct installation of the hood - if extreme point the hood is located more than 5 cm from the ceiling, you should redo it. This is quite easy to do using a hammer drill or sledgehammer. Punch a hole higher to the required size, buy a new grate large sizes and install;
• installation forced exhaust- will increase air circulation in the room, making cleaning much faster hot air and will not allow him to do his “wet work.” This option is a solution to the problem, but in this case it will always be cold in your bathroom. You need to use a powerful hood, preferably one with a timer. Or turn on the light switch, which is not so effective, because you need to ventilate for about 3 hours a day;
• installation of a heated towel rail in the heating circuit. If you don’t have one, then you will have to purchase an electric heated towel rail with a timer; it is inexpensive, does not consume much electricity, but solves the problem completely, since it does not allow the walls in the bathroom to cool down;
• decorate the walls in the bathroom not with tiles, but with another, non-cold material. Although this, of course, is not a way out of the situation. After painting a wall, for example, alkyd paint, steam will also be deposited on it, which, evaporating, will turn the room into a refrigerator, and essentially nothing will change. Only specific finishing materials are suitable for this - for example, basalt insulation boards, natural wood.

That's all for how to remove condensation in the bathroom. And now on to the most interesting part.

Condensation in other areas of the apartment

Source: mybalcon.com

We talked about the reason for its occurrence in the first paragraph. Now let’s talk about what we should do about it.

As you already understand, it occurs because the walls and ceiling are not insulated enough. Moreover, when talking about ceilings, we mean either the top floors of apartment buildings, or ceilings that border unheated attic spaces.

If your apartment is not on the top floor, and your ceilings are not in contact with the external street environment, then most likely the problem is happening in the kitchen. But there the same process takes place as in the bathroom. Now your question is: why? After all, it is not cold there like in the bathroom, but there is heating and the same temperature is maintained as in the entire apartment.

But no, it's not like that. While you are cooking, under the ceiling, even if you have a hood, the temperature is 10–15 o C higher than in the room at the level of your body. Don't believe me? Stand on a chair and see for yourself. And since the dew point is a matter of ratios different temperatures, then you create just all the conditions for it.

There is only one way to deal with such a problem in the kitchen - with the help of a good, powerful hood over the stove, there is no other way.

Now about what concerns the living room or bedroom. If such a problem occurs in these rooms, then you definitely have the last floor apartment building. Or some other one, but with a ceiling that is in contact with the street. The only way to eliminate the problem is through walls.

There is a situation when the floor is not the last, but the ceiling becomes damp and moldy in places located next to load-bearing wall, which is in contact with the street. So, in this case, the problem is in the wall. The solution is exactly the same - insulation. Moreover, you will have to not only insulate the area of ​​the wall from the street, that is, three meters high, but also 60-70 cm down and up, that is, the neighbors’ wall, otherwise yours will still freeze.

Insulation is, in any case, expensive and is done with the help of climbing equipment. You thought: why not insulate the inside? Oh, don’t listen to anyone, and forget to think. Under no circumstances should this be done, since the wall will freeze in any case, and inside, even though it is insulated, it will not be outside temperature to avoid dew point. Even on the other side of the insulation it will be warm there, and moisture will certainly appear.

Moreover, it will no longer dry out, and your wall will begin to rot, and not just mold will grow, but a huge mold with mushrooms. Well, here it’s not far from pneumonia, and with such “insulation” you will definitely get it, because not just a corner, but the whole wall will bloom. It occurs in the apartment persistent odor delicacy and you have to remove everything after a few years, knock out a piece of the wall, kill the fungus, dry it, and so on. In general, don’t try to do this.

Even if you place the insulation under plasterboard or under, the problem will be the same. You think: well, let it rot there? Still, the tires won't let anything through? She won’t let it through, but in a few years all the walls will start to rot, and then you’ll have to remove the ceiling, and then it’s terrible. In general, remember: insulation should only be on the outside!

So we talked about moisture and that , can she gather under suspended ceilings. As you understand, in any case - yes. And now about what we should do.

Troubleshooting

As you understand, insulation will have to be done from the outside of the building. And it makes no difference whether you live on the first floor, on the fourth or on the ninth, or even in a private house.

In any case, work on external insulation walls are work at height, and to do them without professional equipment, insurance and experience are not allowed. No matter how much you want to do it yourself, no matter how confident you are in your abilities, don’t do it yourself.

Remember, according to safety regulations, work more than 1.3 meters above the floor level is considered work at height, which requires insurance and the like. Because falling even from such a small height can lead to death or disability. So don't take any risks.

Now let's talk about how this is done. Not so that you do it yourself, but so that you know what awaits you and what you will have to fork out for. So, there will be several stages of work.

1. You need to start looking for a company that deals with insulation.
2. When a surveyor comes to you, he will take measurements and make an estimate, which should include the following: polystyrene foam with a thickness of at least 50 mm, waterproof construction tile adhesive - for example, ceresit, plastic dowels - fungus, serpyanka mesh to cover the entire area of ​​the foam plastic, putty, dye.
3. Then you should start insulating the roof; for this it is better to write an application to the organization that maintains your home. They are required to take care of the roof. You will need to provide them with evidence when writing your application, so take a detailed photo report on your phone. Write an application and wait for the commission. When they arrive and are convinced that there is a problem, they will draw up a report and set a time when the problem will be fixed.
4. Now to the insulation of external walls. After the builders have calculated everything, the first thing they will do is tighten the safety lines and cradles for work.
5. They then apply adhesive to the side of the building and glue the foam tightly together. If they are just nailing it down, remember to stop the builders and ask them to do everything right. It is necessary to glue the foam plastic, otherwise the work will be in vain. Not all of it, of course, but the effect will not be the same.
6. Next, after gluing, they begin to nail in the “fungi”.
7. Glue the reinforcing mesh.
8. A layer of waterproofing is applied with the same glue, and the layer thickness is at least 3 mm.
9. Putty.
10. They paint.

That's all, dear friends. As you can see, we talked about the problem at length and in detail. We do this because the matter is very dangerous and difficult to solve. In any case, the work costs a pretty penny, but it must be done, because this is a matter of not only beauty, but also health. And remember, our article is only advisory in nature and is not a direct instruction to action. Well, for the rest, good luck!

Condensation – worst enemy in a building that is poorly insulated from the inside. Most often, it appears with the onset of cold weather in the form of small water droplets on the walls or ceiling and causes gradual deterioration of things.

High humidity is characteristic of the following rooms: building basements, cellars, separate buildings such as garages, balconies and loggias - they, as a rule, are practically not insulated and are poorly ventilated.

As soon as an unheated room cools down, condensation can be expected.

Warm air from inside hits the surface of the ceiling or finishing material, cools quickly, and a so-called “cold bridge” appears. This is the dew point that many owners of private buildings fear.

Causes of condensation

A small amount of moisture from outside the roof of the house is not so scary. It is more dangerous when there is a lot of water and it begins to drip onto the insulation, reducing its thermal insulation qualities, or forms wet stains.

For example, moisture accumulation on the roof can occur for the following reasons:

1. Inadequate roof insulation measures or ceiling structure top floor.
2. Poor-quality vapor barrier ceiling of an attic or other room in contact with the roof, or its absence.
3. Poor air flow in the attic.
4. Insufficient ventilation between the vapor barrier film and the roof.
5. Violation of construction standards or use of low-quality materials.

Of course, condensation can be prevented by correcting roof defects, but this requires huge financial investments and time from the home owner. Elimination of condensation that has already formed on the ceiling must be carried out in several stages.

Of course, a single exposure will not give results. Moisture will appear again, so you should find the root cause of its formation. When it gets warmer, you can do this yourself or hire specialists.

Local measures to eliminate condensation

To remove drops of water from the ceiling, you need to prepare the following materials:

1. Protective film. You need to select its area yourself; it usually depends on the size of the room.
2. PVC pipes (including sewer pipes).
3. Galvanized iron for the “umbrella”. Drawings and construction technology can be easily found on the Internet.

After purchasing all the materials you will need to add to them necessary tools and get to work.

The ceiling design is horizontal, so moisture can be removed by giving the surface a slight slope. With the help PVC pipes It is recommended to make something like a drain and take it outside or direct it into a specially installed container. Using galvanized iron, you need to construct an “umbrella” to protect the drain.

Other activities include:

1. Carry out a humidity check and evaluate the quality of ventilation, the performance of the air conditioning system, and then take action if there is a deviation from the standards.
2. Check the insulation layer. If it is wet, you need to lay a new one to replace the old one.
3. It is recommended to insulate the internal and external walls of the house.

Not all thermal insulation materials capable of absorbing excess moisture, some dry out quickly.

Among other things, pay attention to how damp the ceiling in the house is. Perhaps the water also affected the base of the ceiling, penetrating quite deeply. To eliminate similar phenomenon You will need to dry the room using a heat gun. Depending on the technological parameters of the equipment and the moisture level of the materials, the process can take from 1 to 7 days.

Your own home always presents many surprises and not always pleasant ones. One of such phenomena in a private home may be condensation on the ceiling. It can be very difficult to get rid of it, but this problem must be solved gradually. Moisture can not only destroy load-bearing structures made of wood, but also negatively affect the health of residents.

Causes of condensation

Unlike ordinary premises in apartment buildings, there are many more reasons for the occurrence of this unpleasant phenomenon in individual buildings. First of all, this is incorrectly performed or insufficient insulation various surfaces. Moreover, we are talking not only about floors, but also about walls.

Second and most common cause formation of drops of moisture on different surfaces there will be poor ventilation of the premises. In an effort to insulate the house as best as possible, many do not pay attention to proper air exchange, which leads to the formation of a very humid atmosphere indoors. Naturally, moisture will settle even on not too cold walls and ceilings.

Another culprit for condensation will be a simple roof leak. At the same time, if you do not take care of solving this problem in time, you can not only get a problem with humidity, but also lose the insulation, since it will get wet over time and lose its properties.

Often installed in such houses. This is very nice option finishing and not too expensive. However, condensation may form under a suspended ceiling in a private house due to lack of air exchange, especially if the space between the main ceiling and the stretched ceiling is large.

Problem solutions

If all the difficulties arise due to a leaky or improperly installed roof, it will be easiest to resolve the issue. It is enough to inspect the roof and find out in which places water penetrates through it. Usually, if the finishing is not done well, water penetrates into the holes near the screws securing roofing material or through the joints of its individual fragments. By eliminating the leak, you can get rid of excess moisture.

In cases where condensation in a private house forms on suspended ceiling, the culprits for its appearance may be, as unnecessary humid air, and poor insulation of floors. The solution to the problem lies in the very reason for its occurrence - you need to organize normal air exchange and additionally insulate the ceiling. In the ceiling space you need to place a ventilation duct outlet or install a ventilation grill directly into the stretched covering, which will allow air to circulate freely.

There is always moisture in the air and this is normal. However, its excess leads to negative consequences and they must be prevented. When the rooms are too humid, it is necessary to organize an influx fresh air. You can do this in two ways:

• Ventilate the premises regularly.
• Create the right system ventilation.

At the same time, ventilation done without special calculations can do you a disservice - the house will become simply cold and warm air, which should remain in the rooms, will go outside. To avoid this, you shouldn’t do everything “at random” - it’s better to contact specialists who will carry out all the calculations and offer optimal solution. Even just incorrect placement of outputs ventilation ducts may lead to poor air exchange. Saving on the work of professionals in this case would be a bad idea.

The best option for solving problems with the formation of water droplets on the ceiling and other surfaces would be an integrated approach - inspecting the roof to eliminate leaks, creating normal insulation and organizing high-quality ventilation. This approach will allow you to permanently get rid of excess moisture in the house and all the negative consequences associated with it.

Many garage owners have at least once encountered the problem of a wet ceiling. During the cold season, the garage ceiling begins to “cry”. This could become big problem, because moisture dripping from above onto a car can cause various unpleasant consequences, from body corrosion to damage to internal parts of the car.

In addition, if the garage has a cellar, then the products stored in it may spoil, which means this problem requires a quick and effective solution.

Why is it flowing?

The cause of moisture on the garage ceiling may be condensation. It appears when the temperature difference reaches the so-called dew current: the moisture contained in the air begins to condense at a certain temperature and dew forms on the ceiling.

This happens because ceiling tiles in the cold season they cool quickly, and the air inside the room remains warm. When the temperature of the plate drops to a certain level, the internal heated air, interacting with cold surface, forms moisture.

Options for solving the problem

There are several options to solve this problem. Which one you choose is up to you, but there are some nuances that it would be useful to know about before getting rid of condensation on the garage ceiling.

Ventilate

Combined garage ventilation

The problem of dripping ceilings can be eliminated or significantly reduced by installing a ventilation system. This is quite simple to do and even an inexperienced person can handle it.

To effectively ventilate the room, two wide-diameter pipes need to be brought outside; the minimum pipe diameter should be more than 12 cm.

The first should be installed on the front side, at a level of approximately 30-40 cm from the floor - this will be the entrance through which fresh air will enter.

The second ventilation pipe is installed on the opposite side as high as possible to ensure better draft - this hole will be an outlet for air masses and will serve as a kind of exhaust hood.

Both pipes must be firmly secured and protected from clogging and precipitation and unwanted debris from entering through them - the socket is closed with a special lid against precipitation.

In the same way, you can eliminate condensation on the ceiling of the garage basement, and if the draft is poor, a system is installed there forced ventilation, which can be automatic or mechanical. It all depends on the desires of the owner and his financial capabilities.

We insulate

Insulation of the garage

Another inexpensive, but very effective means, which will avoid problems that appear when moisture drips from the ceiling in the garage, is insulation. This method is suitable for any type of garage building:

• Capital garage:
• built-in;
• attached;
• free-standing.
• Temporary garage:
• metal;
• concrete;
• brick.

If the garage has an attic, then the insulation is carried out from above, that is, the attic floor is treated. For example, insulation with expanded clay is only possible if there is attic space: the floor is covered with expanded clay, which has a light porous structure that retains heat well, but it should be taken into account that the thickness of the layer should be at least 3 cm and it is advisable to cover it with a moisture-proofing film on top.

Insulating the garage from the inside with polystyrene foam

In exactly the same way, heat loss is reduced using mineral wool insulation - the material is laid on top of the floor and secured against mechanical shear.

If there is no attic, then they do it differently: install a profile frame that will support the insulation, for example, layers mineral wool, then the structure is sutured moisture-resistant plasterboard, sheets of plywood or chipboard. All cracks are carefully covered with putty, and especially large holes are blown out polyurethane foam.

Insulating a garage with polyurethane foam

By the way, about foam, it should be said that insulation using foaming polymer resins, the types of which are polyurethane foam and penoizol, is one of the most reliable methods, although not the cheapest.

It will require special equipment and, most likely, the work of a professional, since it is very difficult to process the ceiling with these materials yourself. But when the master finishes blowing foam into the ceiling and lets it dry, you can forget about the problem of condensation on the ceiling for many years. This material is lightweight and reliable, and does not reduce space, as is the case when installing a profile frame.

One of the most popular materials that helps eliminate condensation on the garage ceiling is polystyrene foam. This material has many advantages:

• Light weight;
• Ease of installation;
• Availability;
• Attractive price;
• Reliable protection for the ceiling.

Attaching the foam is easy; you can simply glue it to the surface, after treating it with an antifungal agent and allowing it to dry completely. For better support, secure the foam sheet with self-tapping screws in the center and at each corner at the edges.

Penoplex is an improved version of polystyrene foam. It is lighter, but stronger and not so susceptible to wear and mechanical damage. In addition, it practically does not require additional fasteners - just stick it on and process the joints.

Conclusion - don't forget about the basement

Basement in the garage

If there is a basement in the garage, then it should also be insulated and properly ventilated so that the products stored there do not spoil. You can use any of the above methods, all of them are suitable for the basement.

In addition, do not forget to seal the entrance to the basement - secure around the entire perimeter of the doors leading down, rubber seal. Such a seal will serve for many years, preventing damage temperature regime, both in the garage and in the basement.