Copper is a very reliable material that has the ability to conduct electric current and heat. In a non-acidic environment, copper does not corrode, which is an important quality for a heating system. Even with thin walls, copper heating pipes have a long service life and are very durable. Neither pressure, nor liquid temperature, nor temperature changes affect the condition of the pipes.

It is important that installation of heating from copper pipes can be carried out even in severe frosts, since they do not react to temperature, which makes their use very preferable where there are severe frosts and cold temperatures for quite a long time, for example, in the northern part of the country.

But they have a minus - this is the price, it is quite high and not everyone can afford it, although if you calculate the losses in the event of a pipe rupture or other incident, then the price of copper pipes will seem quite justified, since this will not happen to it. Taking into account all the waste in the event of a breakdown, as well as replacing a pipe that has become unusable due to a rupture, copper pipes do not cause such problems; they are very resistant to cold and pressure changes, which is very suitable for our living conditions.

Advantages of copper pipes

• Copper heating pipes can withstand temperatures up to 300C, which distinguishes them from pipes made from other materials and makes them most suitable for regions where very low temperatures in winter. Thanks to such unpretentiousness, it is possible to warm up the room quite well, without temperature changes in distant places.

• Copper pipes can withstand pressure drops well, from 200 to 400 atmospheres.
• Copper is not afraid of freezing.
• When used in water supply, such pipes, due to their bacteriostatic properties, resist the infiltration of contaminants in urban heating networks. They have the ability to inhibit the development of pathogenic microbes in water; therefore, bacteria do not coexist on the surface of copper pipes.
• Plumbing copper is not exposed to chlorine, which is very favorable for its use as a metal for the manufacture of plumbing fixtures.
• If you use copper pipes in a polymer shell, then this will reliable protection from stray currents.
• Copper heating tube is UV resistant and environmentally friendly.
• Easy to install, which allows it to be carried out even by an inexperienced specialist, for example, in the private sector, at dachas.

• A wide range of pipes, thanks to which you can choose those models that are optimally suited both for the heating system of the house and for the wallet of its owner.
• Service life of copper pipes, subject to all operating conditions and taking into account all technical characteristics, is about 50 years old, as reviews show. Agree, this is not bad, so you should not save on buying them, in any case, it is profitable, in addition, after use, you can return the copper and get money for it, this is also an additional plus. Why not?

Disadvantages of copper pipes for heating systems

Like any metal, copper also has its disadvantages:

• At monolithic installation The use of these products in walls is impossible without a protective shell and thermal insulation.
• External corrosion may occur and eat through the metal.
• There is a possibility of development abrasive wear, which is quite possible even before the expiration date stated on the product.
• Stray currents have harmful effects on copper pipes.
• When using copper plumbing products together with aluminum ones, electrochemical corrosion appears over time.
• High price, which not everyone can afford.

Despite its disadvantages and high cost, copper is universal and the most suitable material for coolant transfer. If you want the heating system in your home to be highly efficient and reliable, then you should, without a doubt, choose copper pipes. They are an excellent alternative to steel and plastic heating pipes.

One of the features of copper pipes is their difficult compatibility with other materials used in the heating system, such as steel, aluminum, plastic.

Therefore, during installation, especially if it is done independently, you need to calculate everything so that problems do not arise in the future.

More to additional advantages It can be attributed to the fact that the welding on pipes is stronger than the pipes themselves, which means there is no need to worry about the condition of the weld.

Let's sum it up

Copper pipes are quite durable and reliable; they can be installed even by those who are doing it for the first time, for example, if it concerns a private building, of course. Despite the high cost and minor disadvantages, there are still more advantages, and most importantly, such pipes pay for themselves with their reliability and long-term operation. It turns out that the price, which now seems high, is actually quite acceptable.

Even before designing water heating, a decision must be made on the material for the pipes. Currently in Russia, preference is given to polymer pipes, less often - metal-plastic, and even less often - stainless steel. Abroad, copper pipes are most often used for heating. They are often used for wiring water systems in private homes. Many years of experience have shown that copper analogues have the best ratio in terms of reliability/practicality.

Advantages

1. They can easily withstand heating of several hundred degrees (only at a temperature of 6000 degrees does “annealing” occur, and the pipe begins to lose its strength, acquiring plasticity).
2. Capable of withstanding pressure up to 30 atmospheres or more.
3. Due to their plasticity, they do not collapse if the water freezes inside.
4. Copper has anti-corrosion properties and also does not react to ultraviolet radiation and active chemicals, which increases the service life of the pipe to 50 years or more.
5. Do not allow diffusion of air into the coolant through the walls.
6. Copper can easily be used at the outlet of the heat generator, because, compared to polymers, it has a low coefficient thermal expansion(maximum 1.5 mm per linear meter at 900 degrees).
7. The internal surface has less roughness compared to steel (but not polymer), which significantly reduces the hydraulic resistance in the system, so less powerful pumps can be used. Due to the absence of roughness, unnecessary deposits do not accumulate inside the pipe.
8. Due to the thin walls and fittings, the flow area at the joints remains unchanged, so the hydraulic characteristics of the pipeline do not deteriorate. The entire system is light and compact. Only O.D. the internal section is much larger than steel or polymer.
9. Copper is safe for humans. It has mild antibacterial properties.
10. This beautiful material, which will not spoil the appearance of the room.

Flaws

1. The highest cost among analogues.
2. The assembly technique is much more complex than, for example, soldering polypropylene.
3. Due to their high thermal conductivity, it is recommended to lay such pipes in insulating sleeves (foam), as this will allow heat to be delivered to heating devices with minimal losses.

Types of Copper Pipe

There is a generally accepted classification, which is based on various criteria for determining the types of pipes.

By wall thickness:

1. Thin-walled. The thickness of their walls is approximately from 0.15 to 0.17 mm, so they are practically not used for heating.
2. Thick-walled. The thickness in this case ranges from 0.7 mm to 1 cm. For heating, products with a wall thickness of 1-2 mm are most often taken, since with increasing thickness the pressure that the pipe can withstand increases.

According to the condition of the material:

1. 1. Unfired (hard). As a rule, it is stamped in sections up to 6 m long. It has high strength, but a low elongation to break coefficient (only 15%).
   2. Annealed (soft). Appears in connection with the “tempering” of workpieces at a temperature of 600-700 degrees. The loss of strength is directly related to elongation at break. With a loss of strength by 30%, elongation rates will increase to 60%.

Prices for annealed copper pipes

annealed copper pipes

According to the composition of the material:

1. • pure copper;
   • alloys containing zinc or tin.

By manufacturing method:

• drawn (cold-deformed);
• pressed.

By the presence of a seam:

• seamless (no seams);
• from a welded billet.

Products also differ in the presence/absence of protection. There are models without insulation, as well as in a hard plastic casing (polyethylene, PVC), which protects communications from mechanical damage. Products are also produced in a shell made of foamed polyethylene, which prevents uncontrolled heat loss.

Russian marking of copper pipes

Manufacturing method: drawn - D.

Section shape: round - KR.

State:

• soft - M;
• semi-solid - P;
• hard - T.

Dimensions: outer diameter and wall thickness.

Length: multiple of measured length - CD.

Delivery form:

• segments;
• bays;
• in free-winding coils - BT;
• in coils of layer-by-layer ordered winding - BU;
• in coils of flat spiral winding - BS.

Example of marking: pipe DKRM (drawn round soft) 8.0x1 (size) 5000 (length) coils BU (layer-by-layer ordered winding) M1 r GOST R 52318-2005.

Selection criteria

Copper models, due to their high cost, must be carefully selected.

In order not to make a mistake, you need to get acquainted with the main selection criteria:

1. Compliance with terms of use. The main advantage of the products is their versatility. Suitable for both plumbing and heating systems, because they are immune to constant temperature changes and high pressure. They can withstand loads up to 40 atmospheres and temperatures up to 500 degrees Celsius. They are resistant to ultraviolet radiation and have a low expansion coefficient (7 times less than polymer ones). Also, thanks to the active bactericidal properties of copper, it is absolutely safe for humans. But it is worth paying attention to the fact that copper reacts poorly to chlorine, so interaction with it will quickly render the pipes unusable.
2. Cost of material and installation. The cost of copper is several times higher than its analogues (about 4 times higher than the price of plastic). But if we take into account all the work associated with the installation, and additional elements, then the final cost of the work is no higher than that of metal-plastic. A press fitting for plastic is much more expensive than a soldering fitting for copper. Consequently, the final installation cost directly depends on the footage and the number of fasteners.
3. Service life. The trouble-free service life of a copper pipeline is 50 years or more, which is a very good indicator.
4. Ease of installation. Pipeline installation takes place in several stages: preparation of the material, its processing and installation. The process itself takes a long time, because it is necessary to cut the pipes, bend them using a pipe bender, and also carry out complete installation of all elements. In the end, everything must be connected using fittings (soldering and crimping).

You should not combine copper with galvanized steel, because due to electrolytic processes the copper will simply be destroyed.

Pipe joining methods

According to docking technology, they are considered universal. Any of several connection methods will do, which is a definite plus.

Depending on your goals, you can choose:

• welding;
• mechanical assembly (pressing, compression connection, clamping with self-locking fittings);
• soldering (hard or soft solder).

For welding, a diameter of 100 mm with a wall thickness of more than 1.5 mm is suitable. Mechanical assembly is only suitable for open areas. If the site is hidden in monoliths or in building structures, then such fittings will be expensive. In household heating systems Typically, soft soldering is used. It requires special capillary fittings to operate.

Do-it-yourself copper pipe soldering technology

Before you start soldering, you need to briefly familiarize yourself with the theory so that the process is easier and clearer. In everyday life, when installing plumbing and heating systems in apartments, soft soldering is used, in which the contact points are heated to 250-300 degrees, which allows the soft solder (tin) to melt. But, despite the apparent ease, such a temperature is dangerous for copper, so everything must be done very carefully and correctly.

Preparation for capillary soldering:

1. Cut the pipe to the required size.
2. We chamfer the end of the workpiece (this manipulation will reduce the hydraulic resistance at the joint).
3. We clean the outer surface of the pipe and the inner surface of the fitting with an abrasive sponge. This will get rid of the oxide film.
4. We distribute flux paste over the entire contact area, which will provide soft solder. To make the solder hard, you do not need to use paste.
5. With a slight twist, we put the fitting on the pipe until it stops.
6. WITH work surface Remove the flux paste with a rag.

You can start soldering.

Low temperature soldering of copper pipe:

1. We heat the joint until the flux paste begins to melt. To do this, move the burner nozzle smoothly and evenly around the neck.
2. After the flux has heated up, apply solder to the entire surface of the connecting seam. We do not touch the solder wire with the burner fire, since the tin needs to melt not from direct contact with the fire, but from the high temperature of the copper product.
3. The melting and soldering process is complete. We are waiting for the product to cool completely. The cooling process cannot be accelerated - everything must cool naturally without improvised means.
4. At the end of the work, we remove all flux paste from the part, because it destroys the protective layer of copper products.

How to paint copper pipes

After installation work The pipeline can be painted to protect it from corrosion and give it an aesthetic appearance. Let's consider which paint is suitable to achieve the above goals.

The following paints would be a good choice:

• polyurethane;
• alkyd;
• PF-115, 156, 167, 187, 223, 519;
• GF-0119.

Prices for PF-115

Varnishes that work well include:

• a mixture of ethylene coating with aluminum powder (ratio 9:1);
• VL-51.

It is contraindicated to use oil paints, because they darken when exposed to high temperatures!

Before painting, the surface should be cleaned and coated with lead lead primer No. 81. When painting, you should take into account that the paint is not absorbed into copper, and, therefore, it is necessary to carefully shade the applied composition. It is best to spray paint with a spray can, because with its help you can get a high-quality surface.

Cost of copper pipes

Copper pipes for heating and water supply can be bought in Moscow at a good price. The cost depends directly on the size and diameter. This table shows manufacturers of copper pipes for heating, prices per meter and kilogram. read on our website.

Video

Below is interesting video about how to solder copper structures.

Evgeniy Afanasyeveditor-in-chief

Author of the publication 23.09.2018

Wiring a heating system using copper pipes is not the cheapest solution, but, with proper planning, it is durable and reliable: the shelf life of the material is 80-100 years, but how the connecting elements, soldering points and other components of the system will behave is a question.

Advantages and disadvantages of copper pipes in heating systems

Pipelines made of this metal have a long history: they are already more than 5 thousand years old. years. Technologies have changed, but their positive qualities remain the same:

Quite a decent list of advantages. But there are also disadvantages and quite serious ones:

There are several other properties that, depending on the point of view or operating conditions, can be attributed to both pros and cons:

• First - high thermal conductivity. If copper heating pipes are laid openly, they emit a fairly large amount of heat. Therefore, fewer radiators may be required. That's a plus. When laying closed in a wall or floor, careful thermal insulation is required so that the coolant through the pipe does not transfer all the heat to the wall (this is especially possible when laying in walls facing the street). This is a minus.
• Softness and plasticity. On the one hand, this is good - using a special device, pipes can be bent within fairly large limits, which leads to fewer connections and fittings. This is good. But the softness of the material means that they need to be fixed after a short interval, and in some cases special boxes must be made: at a high temperature of the coolant, copper can soften and lose its shape. This is bad. The not most pleasant moment is that upon impact, copper pipes are deformed, therefore the coolant circulation deteriorates. As a result, with careless attitude and multiple distortions, the effectiveness of the system can be greatly reduced. Not good either.

Most of the problems that may arise during the operation of water pipes are associated with low quality products. And these are not advertising gimmicks, but the results of operation: a properly designed system, consisting of proven elements, works perfectly. If there is even a small fragment of “left” material, problems begin. Example: a cold water and hot water supply system is assembled from copper, all materials are of high quality, branded, with the exception of one piece of pipe (not enough) in the hot water supply, purchased from the first tray on the market. The result is that after a year and a half of operation, a blue film appeared on the plumbing fixtures to which hot water was supplied (where there was only cold water, there was no change). The owners had to change the entire DHW comb due to the presence of an active corrosion process in the “left” section of the pipe.

To navigate brands and buy copper pipes that are suitable for heating, you need to know the types of components produced, their types, area of ​​operation and markings.

Labeling and cost

Copper pipes are available in two types: soft and hard. Solid ones are often used for heating. Release form - linear sections of 2-5 m long or coils in which sections of 5-10 m are twisted.

Dimensions. The outer diameter is indicated in millimeters (usually domestically produced or from the CIS countries) or inches (imported), and the wall thickness is indicated through a fraction or “x”: 22x1 mm (22/1mm) - outer diameter 22mm, wall thickness 1mm, which means inner diameter , according to which heating systems are designed, will be 21mm (22-1=21). For wiring a household heating system, a wall thickness of 0.8-1 mm is sufficient.

In order not to make a mistake with the choice of diameter when installing individual heating, it is easier to “dance” from the boiler outlet. This is the diameter your pipes will be before the first branch. If the system is small, the entire wiring can be done with one pipe, but if it is large enough, you need to follow the rule: after each branch, use a pipe with a diameter that is one step smaller on the dimensional grid. The branch to the heating device (radiator or heated towel rail) also has a diameter that is one step smaller. For example, 24mm comes out of the boiler, at the first branch two branches are separated, which go with 22mm pipes, and 20mm goes from it to the radiators. The “return” is collected in a similar way, but from smaller to larger size. If a large area of ​​several floors will be heated, a professional thermal engineering calculation is desirable.

The fittings coming out of the boiler are usually either copper or brass, but in each case, check and remember that other materials cannot be directly connected to copper. In order to avoid chemical reaction You will have to use brass or bronze fittings or adapters.

There are still pipes annealed and unannealed e. Unheated pipes have a large margin of safety: they can withstand pressures of up to 450 MPa, but do not bend very well: they can only stretch by 6%. To change their characteristics, they are heated to high temperatures and then cooled. The process is called annealing, and the products that come out after it are annealed. The safety margin has become smaller - up to 22 MPa, but the elasticity has increased: the material can stretch by 50-60%. The material has also become more resistant to temperature changes, tolerates ultraviolet radiation without problems and is almost insensitive to high humidity. That’s why annealed copper is used not only in heating, but also in car engines and drives.

Price copper pipes for heating is high. We can compare:

• reinforced diameter 16mm - from 40 rub/m;
• diameter 16mm – from 47 rub/m;
• unannealed copper diameter 10mm - from 280 rub/m;
• annealed copper diameter 18mm – from 400rub/m.

The picture will be approximately the same in fittings: copper ones are many times more expensive than even those used in metal-plastic systems. As an example, the following are not the most expensive PPR and MP pipes; some are more expensive, many times more expensive, but copper ones are also not the most expensive. So you can roughly imagine the difference.

Installation of copper heating pipes

When assembling a pipeline, two types of connections are used: using fittings and welding. Through collapsible or press fittings, pipes are connected to heating devices. Installation is also possible for connecting/branching pipes, but welding is more often used for these purposes. By using annealed pipes in the right places, they can be bent, reducing the number of joints. For bending, a special device is used - pipe bender, which allows you to get different angles without reducing the lumen of the pipe and without impairing the permeability of the system. It is almost impossible to bend copper pipes by hand: although the material is plastic, it is impossible to bend it manually without reducing the clearance. So it is better not to use this method.

To bend a copper pipe, special equipment is used - this cannot be done by hand, as the lumen of the pipe decreases and circulation deteriorates.

To install compression fittings no special equipment is required: the pipe is inserted into the corresponding groove until it stops, and then tightened using a nut, pressing the pipe material against the fitting body. For a tight fit, you may need two keys - tighten until completely sealed. This is all the required equipment. But the specificity of crimp connections is such that constant monitoring of tightness is required: periodically they begin to “drip”. Therefore, such connections cannot be walled up.

Installation press fittings occurs using special press machines. They are not cheap (including rent). But the connection turns out to be tight and reliable, but inseparable.

It is considered more universal and reliable capillary soldering. In this way, you can connect sections of pipes of the same diameter directly: one of the welded ends is flared - the diameter is slightly increased so that the pipes can be inserted into one another. A special device is used for this. The joint is cleaned using a metal brush or special sponges (commercially available). The surfaces to be joined are treated with flux - special composition, which improves the “adhesion” of the metal to the solder. The treated pipes are inserted one into the other. The gap between them should be minimal - fractions of a millimeter. The joint is then heated using a welding torch. When the material is heated to the melting temperature of the solder, it is brought into the flame and the existing cracks are filled with the molten composition. After the seam is filled, it is cooled. You can simply leave it in the air until it cools, or you can put it in water. In principle, the process is not very complicated, but it requires experience, skill and thoroughness of execution: both flaring and the filling process itself require precision and accuracy. According to this scheme, connections are soldered with special copper fittings for soldering.

The process of soldering a copper pipe and the same fitting is well demonstrated in this video, but it is intended to be used in plumbing system, and therefore tin was used as solder. For heating, other compositions are used that have a melting point of at least 115 o C. Otherwise, the process is the same.

How to paint copper heating pipes

When selecting paint, you need to take into account the following subtleties: it should not change color at high temperatures, protect from external influences, and should not flake. In order for the paint to apply more evenly, treatment with a primer for non-ferrous metals is necessary. Lead-lead primer 81 is suitable.

Moreover, you need to take into account that the paint is not absorbed, and you need to carefully spread it with a brush. But more or less even painting can be achieved only after applying two layers. It is a little easier to work with paint in cans: it goes on more evenly.

Cannot be used for copper pipes oil paints- they darken due to temperature, and in heating systems it is considerable. The following paints are suitable: PF enamels - 115, 156, 167, 187, 223 and 519, alkyd, polyurethane and GF enamels - 0119. The use of varnishes is allowed: VL-51 or ethinol varnish, to which aluminum powder is added in a ratio of 9 to 1.

Heating systems use copper pipes of different sizes, which are selected depending on the individual characteristics designed structure. Pipe classification is carried out according to several parameters.

Classification depending on wall thickness:

• Thick-walled. The thickness of the metal ranges from 0.8 to 10 mm (for heating systems, products with a thickness of 1-1.5 mm are usually used).
• Thin-walled. The wall thickness of this category of pipes varies from 0.2 to 0.7 mm. For heating copper tube this thickness is practically not used.

Depending on the production method, there are two types of pipes:

• Drawn or cold rolled;
• Drawn from welded blanks.

In addition, copper products can be classified according to diameter accuracy, material condition and additional parameters– for example, there are pipes with increased ductility, or pipes with increased bending accuracy. The last parameter in some cases turns out to be very important - in particular, when creating custom structures with a special design.

There are a number of difficulties associated with the installation of copper products, but all of them are somehow related to the lack of experience of the master. As a rule, after some training you can learn how to solder copper pipes well, which will allow you to efficiently connect them to each other and connect them to fittings for subsequent assembly into a complete system.

The technology for soldering copper pipes includes the following steps:

1. First of all, using a pipe cutter, cut a suitable piece of pipe that has the required dimensions. It is advisable to cut off the chamfer on the inside of the pipe - this will reduce the hydraulic resistance in the pipeline.
2. When the chamfer is removed, the outer part of the pipe and inner surface the fitting is cleaned. For stripping copper parts A synthetic sponge with hard fibers works great. The sponge should not contain metal elements.
3. The cleaned areas are coated with soldering flux. Flux is necessary for reliable contact of the surfaces to be joined.
4. The fitting is put on the edge of the pipe prepared for work, after which you can directly solder the elements.
5. First of all, you need to start heating the joint of the fitting with the pipe using a gas burner. In this state, all elements are held until the flux melts.
6. When the required temperature is reached, you need to take a rod of soft solder and apply it to the place where the weld should be.
7. If all previous operations were performed correctly and the burner temperature was selected correctly, the solder will begin to melt and flow into the joint, completely filling all the necessary space.
8. All you have to do is wait until the solder cools down. You can use water for cooling, but there is no particular need for this - the seam cools well even at room temperature. Once the copper heating pipes and fittings are soldered, you can connect them to the heating system and start it up.

There is nothing complicated in the technology described - all actions are simple, understandable and accessible even to a novice master. Of course, before finishing soldering you will have to practice so that the installation of heating from copper pipes does not involve unexpected difficulties - for example, it is very difficult to correctly determine the heating time of parts before soldering without practice.

Conclusion

Copper pipes are expensive, but very quality material, which is excellent for heating installations. Long service life and the ability to withstand most aggressive influences make copper products a profitable long-term purchase. If you approach the issue of installing copper heating correctly and perform all operations correctly, the result will be a most reliable heating system made of copper pipes, which in terms of durability can be compared with the entire building.

There are two types of copper pipes on the market: annealed and non-annealed. After formation, annealed ones undergo additional heat treatment- they are heated to 600-700°C. This procedure returns elasticity to the material, which is lost during molding. Therefore, annealed pipes are more expensive, but also more flexible - they can even withstand freezing of water. The disadvantages of these products include lower strength - it decreases due to heating.

Unannealed copper pipes are stronger, but practically do not bend. When installing plumbing or heating, they are cut into pieces, and all bends are made using appropriate fittings.

There are copper pipes with different wall thicknesses, sold annealed in coils of 25 and 50 meters, unannealed in runs of 3 meters. If we talk about the purity of the material, then according to GOST 859-2001, at least 99% copper must be present in products.

Most often, copper pipes are connected using soldering and a set of special shaped elements - fittings. There are also fittings for crimping. They have grooves with a rubber O-ring installed. They are crimped with special pliers. But this technology used infrequently - soldering is considered more reliable.

There are two technologies for soldering copper pipes using different solders:

• Low temperature - with soft solder. This is exactly our case. This type of connection is used when laying water pipes and heating systems with a working environment temperature of up to 110°C. Low temperature is relative concept. In the soldering zone, materials are heated to 250-300°C.
• High temperature brazing. This type of connection is used in networks with high pressure and temperature of the transported medium. In household networks - rarely (although no one prohibits it), more often in industrial ones.

What type of copper pipe soldering to use is your choice. Both types are suitable for both plumbing and heating. But high-temperature solder requires a professional torch, while soft solder can even melt blowtorch or an inexpensive hand torch with a small disposable gas cylinder. To connect small-diameter copper pipes, no more is required.

In general, there are more than two dozen different shaped elements for copper pipes - fittings, but three types are most often used:

The number of fittings used can be minimized - copper can be bent, which will reduce the number of angles needed. Also, if desired, you can do without couplings: one end of the pipes can be expanded (using an expander) so that the pipe goes into it and there is a gap for solder to get there (about 0.2 mm). When creating an expansion, the pipes must overlap by at least 5 mm, but more is better.

What is difficult to do without is tees. There is equipment for inserting a branch - a beading machine, but it is professional and costs a lot. So in this case it’s cheaper and easier to get by with tees.

There are two types of fittings - conventional, with sockets, which provide the required clearance for solder to flow. Solder is supplied to the welding zone manually. There are fittings with built-in solder. Then a groove is formed on the socket, into which, during production, a piece of solder is installed, which makes the soldering process easier - you just need to heat the welding zone, but leads to an increase in the cost of fittings.

In addition to pipes and fittings, you will also need a torch, solder and flux for the soldering itself. And also a pipe bender and a few related little things to process before starting work.

Solder and flux

Soldering of copper pipes of any type occurs using flux and solder. Solder is an alloy usually based on tin with a certain melting point, but always lower than that of copper. It is fed into the soldering zone, heated to a liquid state and flows into the joint. After cooling, it provides a tight and durable connection.

For amateur soldering of copper pipes with your own hands, tin-based solders with the addition of silver, bismuth, antimony, and copper are suitable. Compositions with the addition of silver are considered the best, but they are the most expensive; the optimal ones are those with a copper additive. There are also ones with added lead, but they should not be used for plumbing. All these types of solder provide good quality seam and light soldering.

Soft solder is sold in small spools, hard solder is sold in packs, cut into pieces.

Before soldering, the joint is treated with flux. Flux is a liquid or paste that allows molten solder to flow into a joint. There's not much to choose from here: Any will do flux for copper. Also, to apply the flux you will need a small brush. Better - with natural bristles.

Burner

To work with soft solder, you can buy a small hand torch with a disposable gas cylinder. These cylinders are attached to the handle and have a volume of 200 ml. Despite its miniature size, the flame temperature is 1100°C and higher, which is more than enough to melt soft solder.

What you should pay attention to is the presence of piezo ignition. This function is not superfluous - it will work easier. There is a valve on the handle of the manual gas burner. It regulates the flame length (gas supply intensity). The same valve shuts off the gas if the burner needs to be extinguished. Security ensures check valve, which, in the absence of a flame, will shut off the gas supply.

Some models have a flame deflector installed. It prevents the flame from dissipating, creating more high temperature in the soldering area. Thanks to this, the burner with a reflector allows you to work in the most inconvenient places.

When working with household and semi-professional models, you must be careful not to overheat the unit so that the plastic does not melt. Therefore, it is not worth doing a lot of soldering at one time - it is better to let the equipment cool down and prepare the next connection at this time.

To cut copper pipes, you need a pipe cutter or a hacksaw with a metal blade. The cut must be strictly vertical, which is ensured by a pipe cutter. And to ensure an even cut with a hacksaw, you can use a regular carpenter’s miter box.

Welding

Copper outlet 90 gr., ⌀22 mm.

• Couplings. There are both “straight” couplings for connecting identical pipes, and reduction couplings for connecting parts of different diameters;
• Tees. Used to connect 3 elements of the system at an angle of 90° or 45°;
• Corners. Used for turning at different angles (90°, 45°, 30°);
• Plugs;
• Transitions to threads (straight, angular, tees);
• Connectors (American).

Viega copper couplings.

Copper pipeline laying

Unique performance copper provided tubular products made from it, despite high cost, quite wide application. Copper pipes are not afraid of ultraviolet rays, have a low coefficient of thermal expansion, and high corrosion resistance in non-acidic environments. The ability of copper to maintain ductility when negative temperatures makes it possible to install copper pipes even in winter conditions. The durability of copper pipes does not depend on the temperature and pressure of the media transported through them.

Copper pipes make it possible to transport high-temperature liquids in them.

Installation of copper pipes in heating systems is possible due to their high resistance when working with high-temperature liquids. This property is especially relevant for a single-pipe heating scheme, in which to ensure the coolant temperature in the last radiator is about 70ºC, it is necessary that in the first it is equal to approximately 120ºC

Connecting pipes with compression fittings does not provide an absolute guarantee of reliability and requires constant monitoring during operation.

The maximum temperature that polymers used in heating systems can withstand does not exceed 95ºC, and media with temperatures up to 300ºC can be transported through copper pipes. An important property of a pipeline made of this metal is its ability to withstand pressure of 200-400 atm, while the soldered connection of copper pipes, made by hand, remains sealed.

Thanks to its antibacterial properties, copper can resist the infiltration of contaminants in urban water supplies. Plumbing copper is resistant to chlorine. Moreover, chlorine, being a strong oxidizing agent, promotes the formation of a protective oxide film on copper, which extends the service life of the pipeline.

When using copper pipes in heating and water supply systems, combinations in the system should be avoided. different materials, which leads to local electrochemical corrosion. If it is necessary to connect, for example, aluminum with copper, brass transition elements are used.

Copper pipes have unique performance properties and are still the best option for laying internal communications in the house. In this material, we will consider the principles and rules for installing a water supply and heating system from copper pipes in order to use such an expensive material with maximum efficiency.

If the construction estimate allows the use of copper pipes, then this will be the best option for water supply and, especially, for heating. Their advantages include:

• resistance to sudden temperature changes and possible freezing of water in pipes;
• easily tolerated high blood pressure in the network and even water hammer;
• resistance to chlorine in water;
• low roughness - minimal hydraulic resistance and reduced formation of lime deposits;
• bacteriostatic - bacteria do not multiply in copper pipes;
• high aesthetics of external wiring.

Regulatory documents for project development and installation of water supply and heating from copper pipes

In addition to the main state standards for the design and installation of heating and water supply systems, specialized regulatory documents have been developed on the performance of work from copper pipes:

• SP 40-108-2004;
• STO NP "AVOK" 6.3.1-2007.

In the documents you can find requirements for the chemical composition and range of pipes, the composition of water, recommendations, tables and nomograms for hydraulic calculation, calculation of expansion joints and fastenings, requirements for connections and installation, solder compositions, recommendations for corrosion protection, hydraulic test modes, repair recommendations.

Copper pipes intended for heating and water supply installations must be manufactured in accordance with GOST R 52318-2005.

Safety precautions and restrictions for use

As a safety measure against stray currents (copper is an excellent conductor) and external corrosion when hidden installation It is advisable to use copper pipes in a protective polymer shell.

The use of lead solder in drinking water pipelines is prohibited, as lead is a toxic substance. When connecting pipelines by soldering using fluxes, before using water for food, you need to flush the system using “first” water for household purposes.

When connecting a copper pipeline to aluminum equipment, in order to avoid the creation of a galvanic couple and, as a result, electrochemical corrosion, it is advisable to separate them dielectric insert- for example, a fitting made of polypropylene. It is also possible to use brass, bronze or corrosion-resistant steel fittings. It is advisable to use radiators and mixers made of copper, bimetallic, as well as products that are already prepared by the manufacturer for installation with a copper pipeline.

When using steel and copper elements in one system, it is advisable to install the steel ones earlier in the water flow: for example, the riser is steel, the wiring is copper. If this is not possible, it is necessary to use magnesium separating products - passive anodes (used mainly in industry). This applies to a greater extent to galvanized steel.

The activity of the reaction between metals depends on the concentration of oxygen in water: the more oxygen there is, the faster the reaction rate. If the house's water supply is autonomous and there is aeration in the water treatment system (for iron removal), this should be taken into account when configuring the pipelines. Also, you should not drain all the water from the systems unless necessary - this will shorten their service life.

Table. Galvanic compatibility: “+” - possible, “-” - not allowed, “P” - connection is allowed only through soldering

Metal	Steel	Aluminum	Duralumin	Copper	Brass	Bronze	Chromium	Nickel	Zinc	Tin	Solder PIC
Steel	+	+	+	-	-	-	+	+	+	+	+
Aluminum	+	+	+	-	-	-	+	-	+	P	P
Duralumin	+	+	+	-	-	-	+	-	+	P	P
Copper	-	-	-	+	+	+	+	+	-	P	P
Brass	-	-	-	+	+	+	+	+	-	P	P
Bronze	-	-	-	+	+	+	+	+	-	P	P
Chromium	+	+	+	+	+	+	+	+	+	P	P
Nickel	+	-	-	+	+	+	+	+	+	P	P
Zinc	+	+	+	-	-	-	+	+	+	+	+
Tin	+	P	P	P	P	P	P	P	+	+	+
Solder PIC	+	P	P	P	P	P	P	P	+	+	+

Basic schemes for water supply and heating from copper pipes

Schemes for pipelines from various materials differ slightly. Let us consider the main contours of the systems, taking into account the characteristics of the material used.

Water supply: diagrams and wiring

Pressure and storage water supply systems are fundamentally different. The choice of system depends on the source (mainline or autonomous), average daily and peak flow rates, and characteristics of plumbing equipment. The storage system is characterized by the presence of an accumulator tank installed at the highest point of the system: the higher the tank, the more pressure it can create.

Options for organizing water supply for a private home. 1. Well along with a pumping station. 2. Well and external pressure tower. 3. Centralized water supply. 4. Well and internal accumulator (gravity circuit)

If the hot water supply in the house is centralized, the wiring throughout the house can be one- or two-pipe. With both schemes, unlike a dead-end cold water supply, the water is constantly in motion, providing sufficient temperature at any time of the day.

In the absence of a main supply, hot water supply to the house is organized using storage or instantaneous water heater, autonomous - electric, or indirect heating— built into the boiler circuit.

Below are several typical hot water supply schemes.

Organization of hot water supply. 1. Two-pipe. 2. Single-pipe with recirculation

Based on the type of wiring, a distinction is made between tee (series) and manifold (parallel) systems. The tee system is characterized by low (relatively) cost and simple installation, but it is only suitable for houses with a small number of water intake points. In addition, if one faucet fails, you will have to turn off the water in the entire house.

1. Tee wiring. 2. Collector wiring (star)

The collector (beam) system is more complex and expensive, but is ideal big house without making it difficult for anyone to use:

• such a scheme ensures stable water pressure and temperature, regardless of the number of taps turned on at the same time;
• any of the mixers can be turned off autonomously;
• the system is available for installation of new “beams” if necessary;
• adjustment of the entire system is concentrated in one place: on the collector.

The collector circuit is more material-intensive, which, given the cost of copper pipes, is important.

Below are examples of cold and hot water according to the collector circuit for two bathrooms and a kitchen.

Heating from copper pipes

As with the use of other materials, heating assembled from copper pipes can be gravity and forced. The gravity system is arranged in one-, two-story houses, works due to the forces of gravity, changes in the density of the coolant during heating and cooling. For normal operation systems with natural circulation, pipes of the largest possible diameter are selected to reduce hydrodynamic resistance.

Heating with natural circulation. 1. Boiler. 2. Expansion tank. 3. Heating radiators

The forced system includes a pump that pumps coolant through the pipes, creating overpressure and pressure. Pipes can be selected with a smaller diameter and compensate for the increased resistance due to the high pressure of the circulation pump. Considering the cost of copper, the second option seems more attractive in terms of overall costs.

Heating with forced circulation. A. Single-pipe wiring. B. Two-pipe wiring. 1. Boiler. 2. Security group. 3. Membrane type expansion tank. 4. Circulation pump. 5. Radiator

Based on the type of wiring, a distinction is made between single and two-pipe systems, each of which has its own options.

The greatest advantage of copper pipes over metal-plastic ones, which are now widespread, manifests itself with single-pipe wiring. Copper makes it possible to mount a long chain of radiators in series: more than 5-10 pieces. If desired, the coolant can be heated to the permitted 150 °C, so even in the last radiator in the direction of travel, the water temperature will be quite high, maintaining the proper heat transfer power.

The two-pipe circuit can be: associated (Tichelman loop), dead-end (arm) or radial (collector). There is no clear leader among the systems; the use of one or another scheme must be considered individually, although in most cases builders prefer a similar scheme.

1. Tichelman loop. 2. Dead-end or shoulder wiring

Manifold heating distribution

With equipment warm floors copper pipes provide good temperature uniformity, are very reliable, durable and can be laid without fittings, exclusively by bending according to one of the following schemes:

• spiral;
• snake;
• double snake.

The double snake provides the best temperature uniformity over the heated area.

1. Snake. 2. Double snake. 3. Double helix

To supply heated floors, a separate boiler circuit can be allocated, or the wiring can be installed in the return pipeline when low temperature coolant.

Advice! When installing heated floors, screed only after testing.

Tools and piping installation

After developing the project, you need to prepare necessary tools and materials, perform installation in accordance with regulatory documents and conduct hydraulic testing.

Tools and materials

Many well-known companies produce specialized tools and fittings for installing copper pipes.

The most famous are:

• REMS, Germany;
• Viega, Germany;
• Rothenberger, Germany;
• Virax, France.

To cut off measured sections of the pipeline, you will need a pipe cutter (for thin-walled products) or a hacksaw for metal (for thick-walled ones). The calibrator is designed to remove burrs and increase the diameter of thin-walled pipes for fittings. In some cases, an expander and flarer will be required instead of a calibrator. To bend pipes, you will need a pipe bender - a spring, crossbow or other design that carefully bends thin-walled sections of copper pipeline.

1. Manual pipe bender with electric drive. 2. Hydraulic manual pipe bender. 3. Spiral for bending copper pipes

At different types connections may be needed:

• torch with cylinder and flux brush for soldering;
• press pliers for crimping connections.

Advice! Choose burners with piezo ignition - a very convenient feature.

There is a special tool for copper pipes - a beading tool. With its help, bends are formed from the material of the pipe itself, which reduces the cost of fittings.

You may also need wrenches(especially for threaded connections), a file, fine sandpaper or coarse polymer sponge.

The required materials depend on the type of connection:

• fittings - for soldering, crimping, threaded connection;
• solder and flux for soldering;
• fum tape for threaded connections.

Methods for connecting copper pipes

For thin-walled pipes, solder and crimp connections are available. Thick-walled ones are mounted using compression and threaded fittings, as well as flange connections (for large diameters, they are rarely used in private homes). Copper can also be welded, but this method is only available to professionals, so it will not be considered further.

Soldering

For installation of engineering in-house systems It is enough to perform soldering with soft solder at temperatures up to 250 °C. Soldering hard solder although it forms a more durable connection, it is performed at temperatures up to 730 ° C and requires more expensive tools, solder and higher qualifications of the craftsman. This type of connection is required for refrigeration and climate control technology, where significant operating pressure is created inside the pipeline.

To solder the pipeline, special copper fittings are needed. It is also possible to reduce the number of fittings for soldering due to the formation of bends from the material of the pipe itself.

Below is a diagram of creating a bend on a copper pipe using the extrusion method without using a tee.

A hole is cut in the pipe with a diameter 2·3s less than the diameter of the incoming pipe, where s is the wall thickness. The working rod of the bell is inserted into the hole, and then the drive is turned on and the side pipe is removed. The method works great only for soft copper pipes. If necessary solid pipes pre-annealed at the point where the branch is formed.

Copper tubes are connected by capillary soldering (term according to GOST 17325-79). The procedure for making a soft solder connection is:

1. Prepare the pipe for soldering - remove burrs and oxide film from the inside using a metal brush, and treat the outer surface with soft sandpaper.
2. Apply flux to the outer surface with a brush to distribute the solder evenly.
3. Insert the pipe into the fitting. The annular gap should be less than 0.5 mm.
4. Gas burner(or a blowtorch) heat the joint without holding the flame in one area.
5. As soon as the solder begins to melt upon touching the heated area, the desired temperature has been reached.
6. Perform soldering by injecting solder into the annular gap. The flux must ensure uniform spreading.
7. Leave the joint alone until completely cooled, then clean the seam.

Crimping

Making crimp connections is somewhat easier than soldering. This requires press fittings with an insert that ensures the tightness of the pipeline. The pipe is inserted into a press fitting with a tab, after which it is clamped with press pliers with a force of 32 kN, forming one or two compression circuits. There are also fittings using special sleeves with double O-rings for pipelines made of soft copper. Different manufacturers use different methods of visual control of crimping: these can be crumpled edges, a broken plastic ring, etc.

For thick-walled pipes, it is rational to use compression or threaded fittings. When connecting thin-walled sections of a pipeline with thick-walled ones, there are transition fittings.

Finally, watch a video that walks you through soldering and crimping.