Even the most modern windows need prevention and care, and if they are not given proper attention, then after some time you will probably encounter such an unpleasant moment as blowing.

It can blow from anywhere: from above the sash, from under the seal, from below the sash, from under the window sill, from the slopes. We will try to give you advice on how to eliminate blowing from plastic windows.

Window blowing or “chill”?

There is such a thing as a “chill” from a double-glazed window. Very often it is confused with blowing, although there is nothing in common between them. The chill from the glass unit is not a drawback of the window. There are two manifestations of this concept.

If it is winter outside and the surface of the glass unit is cold, then the air circulating in the room can slide along the glass from top to bottom, while cooling at the bottom point of the sash. If you place the palm of your hand down the sash, you will feel a slight cold air blowing through it. You might think that blows from the junction of the sash and frame from the bottom of the sash , although in reality everything may be very tight there.

Possible reasons : a poorly functioning radiator or one blocked by the window sill, too powerful ventilation, draft, single-chamber double-glazed windows without an energy-saving function.

If you have a cold double-glazed window installed, for example a regular single-chamber one, then on frosty days all its glass can be cooled to low temperatures. Cold glass radiates cold across its entire surface at a distance of up to 10 cm, which can be perceived by you as air blowing.

What to do: replace the double-glazed window with a warmer one, eliminate the blocking of the radiator by the window sill (if blocked).

Reasons for blowing windows and how to fix it.

You can make sure that it is really blowing from the window using the flame of a candle or lighter. Bring the flame to the place where you are blowing, and if it sways or goes out, it means it is really blowing.

Blows around the perimeter of the sash

Cause: Most likely your window is not translated to winter mode. For this reason, the sash is not pressed tightly enough to the frame.

What to do: It is necessary to change the clamping mode of the fittings. Instructions.

Blowing from under the windowsill

Cause: The window sill is not installed airtight. The space under the window sill must be filled with foam or screed, and the seam must be plastered.

What to do: Apply sealant along the seam at the bottom of the window sill, or reinstall it.

Blows from the slopes

Cause: The assembly seam filling element is damaged or missing. As a result, air passes between the window frame and the wall. This phenomenon can occur 5-10 years after window installation. This happens after a not very high-quality window installation, when the mounting foam is not sufficiently insulated from the impact external environment, and, as a result, is partially destroyed.

What to do: Disassemble the slopes and reapply foam around the perimeter of the frame. After this, reinstall the slopes.

Blows from the junction of the impost and the window frame

Cause: Most likely, the product is defective. All window elements must be clearly and evenly attached to each other. The joint between the impost and the frame should not have through gaps. If the gap is large and there is blowing from it, it means that the window is not made very well and the impost is not attached properly.

What to do: Seal the outer gap with frost-resistant sealant.

Blows from loops

Cause: In the hinge area there are many fastening elements for fittings that pass through the plastic into the hollow frame. If on outside If the casement window has holes in the frame, for example from the fastening of a rod mosquito net, then air can enter these holes, which, getting inside the frame, escapes as a draft through the holes for fastening the fittings, in the hinge area.

What to do: Inspect the sash for unfilled holes and close them tightly.

Blowing from under the seal

Cause: The seal has dried out and become inelastic. The air entering the formed irregularities comes out as a draft.

What to do: If adjusting the sash pressing force does not help, then the seal must be replaced.

Everything and everywhere is sealed, but the window still blows and whistles

There may be very low pressure (rarefied air) in the apartment. This can happen if there are sources through which air escapes, for example, turned on hoods in the kitchen and bathrooms. Also, the reason may be a very powerful ventilation system at home when through ventilation holes air is sucked in a lot.

Forced pumping of air from the apartment creates rarefaction in it. In such an apartment, as if into a vacuum, air will be sucked in through the windows with enormous force and front door. And it doesn’t matter at all that the windows are of high quality and well installed. In such cases, due to the enormous pressure, air leaks through microscopic holes in the places where handles and fittings are attached.

Installing plastic windows is a very reasonable solution for owners of private houses and apartments. Such windows are famous for their high thermal and waterproofing properties. However, sometimes it happens that the window sill suddenly starts to blow, which significantly cools the room.

This is especially unpleasant in winter, when there is minus temperature. What to do if it’s blowing plastic window? You will find out what to do in this situation right now.

A plastic window is blowing - what to do? Looking for a reason

First of all, it is necessary to understand why this happens. If you notice that the joint of the sashes is blowing, the problem is probably hidden in a bad seal. It is also necessary to note the fact that even the most expensive metal-plastic windows are not able to guarantee you complete insulation from external factors for a long time. As a rule, the seal “lives” no more than 3-4 seasons, that is, about 3-4 years of operation. After this time, this window element becomes more rigid and simply loses its properties. Gradually, small holes form in the seal, through which it penetrates cold air from the street.

So, you discovered that your plastic window is blowing. What to do in this case?

There is only one way out of this situation - buying a new seal. You can buy it at almost any specialty store, and it’s quite easy to install. And to be completely calm about metal-plastic window, additionally purchase special means caring for him. This way you will increase the service life of the seal by another 1-2 seasons.

One more common cause blowing windows is incorrect. In this case, there is no need to insulate anything. To correct the situation, just pick up a hexagon and adjust the direction of the valves. Determining the sagging of a window is also quite simple - when it is opened, the lower part of the sash will cling to the frame. In this case, blowouts will be observed in the upper part of the outer corner. We'll look at how to adjust the shutters in the next subheading.

Let's start adjusting

So, our plastic window is blowing. What to do and how to adjust it? To adjust the fittings, you will need a minimum set of tools. It is enough to have one hexagon and pliers.

On the fittings you will see several elements - the lower and upper hinge, the axle, the counter strips on the window frame and the scissors located on the tilt-and-turn fittings. Using the first element, you can independently produce Here it can be adjusted in 4 directions - down, up, left and right. The top loop supports pressure adjustment. Here you can also set the position of the window in different directions (left or right). Elements such as the trunnion and strikers serve to adjust the sash pressure.

What to do if cold air enters the room from under the slopes?

Previously, we found out why plastic windows blow. How to fix the problem if air enters the room from under the slopes? First of all, you need to remove the slopes and additionally insulate the plastic window underneath them. If there is foam plastic there, carefully foam all the joints and seams of the sealing element. The foam should fit snugly over the entire area of ​​the window and its frame. If you doubt the quality of the work performed, remove the seal and install it again. IN brick houses in order to prevent blowing, it is recommended to additionally plaster the wall underneath. It is quite possible to use polyurethane foam as a sealing element. It is very simple to use - first it is applied to the wall, then the foam is pressed tightly against it. Excess frozen foam is carefully removed with a knife.

After completing all the above work, the slopes are mounted in their place, and the joints are sealed or closed using special casings.

A few words about mineral wool

Why does a plastic window sometimes blow out even after such a “repair”? What to do in such a situation? It's all about the sealing material. If you find foam under the window instead, your best bet is to replace it. The fact is that this material does not perform its thermal insulation function very well. Over time, the cotton wool simply rolls off, and blowouts form in place of the cracks formed. It is for this reason that experts recommend using foam plastic as the main thermal insulation material.

So, we found out why plastic windows are blown out and how to fix them. this problem in different cases (depending on the location of depressurization).

A plastic window, even the highest quality and correctly installed, requires periodic maintenance. It can last for several years without any problems, but over time it may feel friction when opening or closing. The second problem is that there is air blowing from under the seal, and the third is that the handle turns with force. All these breakdowns are not complicated and can be easily fixed, and it is not at all necessary to call a specialist: adjusting plastic windows yourself is a matter of minutes. All you need to do is tighten or loosen a few screws. The main thing is to know where and how. More on this in photo and video format.

Winter and summer mode

Most often, adjustment of plastic windows is required for the new season: in winter, complete tightness is desirable, and in summer, a little fresh air let in. This is achieved by adjusting the sash pressure density. It's easy to do it yourself. Once you figure it out, you’ll be surprised how simple everything is...

The window sash is pressed to the frame using pins. These are movable metal protrusions on the side surface of the sash. When the handle is turned, they move behind the mating metal plates mounted on the frame. In order to be able to adjust the tightness of the sash and frame, they have an eccentric - or are made themselves oval shape, or there is an off-center adjustment in the center of the circular tab. By changing the position of the trunnions (see photo), you change the degree of pressure, that is, eliminate the draft from under the sash.

As you can see, the shapes of the locking protrusions can be different. To adjust them can be used different instruments. If your window has eccentrics like those in the picture on the left - oval-shaped protrusions - change their position using pliers: clamp it and turn it in the desired direction.

If the locking tab is round, as in the picture on the left, it can be slotted for a screwdriver or hex key. After examining them, you will easily understand which tool you need: a regular screwdriver or a No. 4 hexagon. Insert a key or screwdriver into the slot and also turn it to the desired position.

Place all the protrusions in the same position. Please note that they are not only on one side of the sash - the outer one, but also on the inner side (at least one, but there is one), and can also be at the top and bottom. Set all the existing locking lugs in the same position, otherwise the frame will warp and there will be air blowing from underneath it.

When adjusting the fittings of plastic windows, remember that weak pressure corresponds to summer mode closing plastic windows, standard or strong - for winter. If you carry out maintenance work in winter, first set it to the standard position and check if there is airflow. It is not recommended to immediately pinch the rubber bands on new PVC windows. In this position, installed around the perimeter rubber seal pressed hard. Because of this, over time it loses elasticity. A normal seal has a 15-year warranty, but still... If the pressure is immediately set to maximum, the rubber will deteriorate faster. As a result, once again setting the winter position on the plastic windows, you will find that it is still blowing from under the sash, and the rubber is all cracked. This means it's time to change the seal. This is also not very difficult, but it takes more time, and you still need to buy tires.

So: the winter and summer positions of plastic windows are set by changing the position of the locking lugs - trunnions. Everything is explained in detail in the video below. After viewing, adjusting plastic windows yourself will finally cease to be a problem.

How to adjust a window so it doesn't blow

Sometimes, plastic windows, even after moving the trunnions to the position of strong pressure, are not airtight - there is a blow from under the sash and replacing the rubber does not help. This usually happens when the house shrinks. In this case, they say that the window sags. When this happens, contact between the locking lug and the strike plate is lost. When you turn the handle, the protrusion-trunnion should go behind the plate, pressing the sash. If this does not happen and drafts occur, the heat is blown out of the room.

Where are the trunnions (pressing lugs) usually located?

When a plastic window sag, the adjustment is different: you need to move the sash so that those protrusions that do not reach the plates catch on them.

First you need to decide which of the trunnions do not reach the locking plates. This is done mechanically. First, inspect the sash, remember where the protrusions are. Close the window. Grasp the sash frame where the trunnions are installed and pull it towards you.

If there is contact, the frame remains motionless, if not, it moves. So you check in which places there is no contact and determine in which direction the sash needs to be moved. This is done by adjusting the lower and upper loops.

Bottom Hinge Adjustment

If the PVC window somewhere below does not close, we will move the sash using the lower hinge. There are two adjustments: one in horizontal plane- moves closer to the hinge or further from it, and the second - in the vertical - raises or lowers the sash a couple of millimeters.

To move bottom part the doors are closer or further to the hinge, it opens. At the bottom of the sang there is an adjustment hole for a hex key (sometimes for an asterisk).

A hexagon is inserted into it, turning it clockwise brings the lower corner closer to the loop, and turning it counterclockwise moves it away. Move the sash a little and try to close/open it. Once the result is achieved, stop. If the resource is turned all the way, but there is no result, return everything to its original position: this is the wrong adjustment.

This screw can be used to correct the situation if, when closing the window, the sash touches the frame at the bottom. By bringing it a little closer to the loop, you will eliminate this problem.

There is a second adjustment screw on the bottom hinge. To get to it, you need to place the sash for ventilation and remove the decorative trim. It can be easily removed, you just need to pull the bottom edge towards you a little (1-2 mm) and pull it up. After removing the protective cap, you will see a recess at the top. A 4 mm hexagon is inserted into it. Turning it clockwise raises the sash slightly, turning it counterclockwise lowers it.

We talk in detail about how to remove the decorative cover on the hinge, how and how to adjust the bottom hinge on a PVC window in the following video.

Adjusting the top hinge

If the top corner of a plastic window does not close, you need to move it. To do this, open the window at least 90°. You can do less, but it will be inconvenient to work. There is a hinge at the top of the sash. It differs in design from the bottom one, but it also has a hole for a hexagon.

The adjustment screw is on the side. By rotating it, we move the sash further from the hinge (if the trunnions farthest from the hinge do not close) or closer to the hinge. One thing - there should be a gap of several millimeters between the sash and the hinge: it is necessary for the tilt-and-turn mechanism to fit there. Therefore, turn the key half a turn and check how the window opens/closes.

Sometimes this adjustment does not help. Then it is required press the top corner against the frame. There is another screw for this - on the tilt and turn mechanism. To have access to this screw, you will have to open the window in two positions at once. To do this, open the sash and press the lock. It usually comes in two designs - in the form of a locking loop or a tongue (see photo below).

The blocker is retracted all the way, holding it, the handle is turned for ventilation, the upper edge of the sash is pulled slightly toward you, and the rotating mechanism is opened. A device that holds the sash open. On one of the plates there is a protrusion for the same hex key. By turning it, you can adjust the tightness of the upper corner of the sash. It is necessary if the upper corner of the plastic window does not close.

You can watch the video again to see how to adjust plastic windows yourself. Explanations to the point, accessible and without unnecessary words.

The plastic window does not close

Sometimes the geometry of the window opening changes so much that even moving the sash to the maximum, we do not get desired result: The plastic window does not close. What to do in this case? If there is an adjustment on the mating part, as in options a and b in the photo, try to get by with a little damage - tighten it further here. The principle is the same: insert the hex key and rotate it clockwise, pushing it to the maximum.

If a few millimeters are missing not in depth, but sideways, then will have to be installed under the mating part of the lining. They are cut from a piece of white plastic. The maximum thickness is 3-4 mm. First, unscrew the screws and remove the stops. Two gaskets are cut out: one is installed from the bottom, the second from the side. As a result, the stop moves 3 mm deeper into the sash.

They are first installed on the desired place of the lining, on them there is a stop, which is screwed with a self-tapping screw. Protruding pieces of plastic are cut off with a sharp knife. Check whether the window closes or not.

If this does not help, there is another way: move the sash frame. It is quite flexible and can be moved about 5mm. The procedure is as follows:

If you look closely, you can see that the frame is slightly curved. The main thing is that the window now closes. In 99% of cases this is enough. If you are unlucky and all these tricks do not produce results, you need to remove the slopes and also bend the frame.

You can watch all the steps described above in the video.

Adjusting and replacing handles

A fairly common problem: the handle is difficult to turn. If the problem is not corrected in time, due to excessive efforts it breaks, leaving a short stump with which you definitely can’t do anything.

First, how to make the handle close again easily. The locking mechanisms must first be cleaned and lubricated. First, accumulated dust and dirt are removed, wiped dry, then all moving parts are lubricated. You need to use pure oils, without alkalis and acids. Best option— engine oil, you can use any analogue or modern remedy from a can.

Having lubricated all the rubbing and moving parts, open/close the sash several times and turn it on its hinges. Everything should move smoothly, without jerking.

If there are problems now, most likely during the process of adjustments or changes in the geometry of the window, the blocker has shifted. It should fit easily into the mating part and press tightly against the frame. Then the handle turns easily. Move the sash and try again.

Now about how to change the handle. The fastener on which it is held is hidden under decorative overlay. If you look closely, you will see that there is a thin lid. You grab it with your fingers or pry it with your nails, pull it slightly toward you and turn it to one side. Two bolts open. They are unscrewed, the handle is removed, and a new one is put in its place.

We looked at the most common problems and how to fix them. Now not only is adjusting plastic windows not a problem for you, you can also do minor repairs yourself. You can also do it yourself service(greasing once a year).

Winter, cold wind, as a result, drafts and blows from the window, neither the owners of new plastic nor the owners of old wooden windows are immune from this. Insulation of windows in an apartment or private house should extend to the spaces above and below the window sill, because there may be cracks into which it will blow.

What to do if it's blowing from under the windowsill? How to identify the cause and eliminate the gap?

If the window was recently installed, you should contact the company that performed the installation. If warranty period expired or you did the installation yourself, you need to consider ways to solve the problem yourself.

Blowing from under the window sill is possible if it is installed incorrectly, or if the mounting foam that foams the space between the window sill and the wall sag.

Methods for insulating a window sill depend on which unit is the source of the blowing.

1. Blowing between the window sill and the window - how to eliminate the gap

The simplest, but not very aesthetic way to eliminate drafts is to place a barrier between the source of the draft and the room.

This method is good as a temporary measure until completion repair work to eliminate bloating.

How to seal a gap between a window sill and a window

Seal the gap with sealant

To ensure tightness, it is enough to purchase a transparent sealant, clean the area where it is applied from dust, degrease and wipe dry, then cut off the tip of the tube nozzle and squeeze out the sealant in a thin layer.

Advice. You can make a beautiful seam using a 10 ruble coin. To do this, you need to run the edge of a coin along the seam, pressing the sealant to the junction of the frame and the window sill. Different denominations of coins will provide different seam thickness and radius of curvature.

Note that when decorating a sealed seam above a window sill, you need to do the work quickly, in one movement, so that the seam turns out beautiful and not intermittent. In this case, part of the sealant that will accumulate on the coin will be consumed in those places where there is not enough of it, and after the seam is formed, the excess sealant is removed from the coin.

During the process of forming the seam, it is possible that part of the sealant will accumulate behind the edges of the coin and harden on the frame and window sill. There is nothing wrong with this; after hardening, the sealant can be easily removed.

The advantage of this method is that the work can be completed in just a few minutes. However, the seam provides complete tightness for 1-2 years after application. This is due to the fact that the sealant gradually moves away from the plastic base or paint during cleaning, in particular washing the window sill. In addition, over time it becomes darker, and one gets the impression that the window sill where it meets the window frame is dirty.

Close the gap between the window sill and the window with a profile

The method consists of forming additional protection for the sealed seam with a plastic strip (profile).

Work order:

– prepare plastic profile for the bathroom. Profile configuration – internal corner. Length equal to the length of the window plus 20-30 mm;

– cut off the perforated part. How to do this is shown in the picture;

– make holes 10-15 mm deep in the corners of the window sill. These are the future seats For internal corner;

– clean the junction of the frame and the window sill from debris, dust, grease and wipe dry;

– fill the gap with sealant. This will compact it;

– squeeze out the sealant along the junction of the frame and the window sill. You need to squeeze out evenly, forming a seam of equal thickness;

– cleaning the seam. If the seam is not very large, you can skip this step. Otherwise, you need to remove excess sealant with a coin;

– place one end of the inner corner blank into the hole filled with sealant at a distance of 10-15 mm;

– carefully pressing the profile to the sealant, secure it along the entire length of the window;

– insert the second end of the profile into the prepared bed.

Advice. If the profile is not tightly adjacent to the sealant, it must be pressed down and held a little until the sealant hardens. If the profile has squeezed out the sealant, then you need to remove it without smearing it.

The advantage of this method of window sill insulation is that, despite the labor intensity, after sealing the cracks and holes, you get a neat, moisture-resistant and durable corner.

2. Blows from under the windowsill of a plastic or wooden window

The reasons why it blows from below the window sill are due to an insufficient amount of mounting foam, which is used to fill the distance between the wall and the window sill after installation, or due to its subsidence.

How and with what to seal foam under the windowsill

There are two options for eliminating blowing.

The first one is suitable if the window has been installed recently, and work on decorating the window opening has not yet been carried out; you can remove the window sill and blow out the junction of the wall and the wall with foam. window frame. After this, install the window sill in place.

The second method is suitable for a functioning window. In this case, the polyurethane foam is blown under plastic window sill. After the foam has hardened, its excess is cut off, and the foaming area is sealed with plaster.

Window sill repair process on video

Why does water accumulate on the windowsill of plastic windows?

Often, after the blowing has been eliminated, users are faced with the fact that complete tightness leads to water accumulating on the windows and sills of plastic windows. This is condensation that forms for various reasons, in particular:

• due to lack of ventilation,

• due to the significant width of the window sill. It stands behind the heating radiator and warm air does not have time to warm up the glass and prevent the appearance of moisture;

• high indoor humidity. The appearance of condensation is typical for the kitchen or for rooms in which renovation work is being carried out;

• low temperature in the rooms;

• defects in window installation and slope insulation.

How to get rid of condensation on a windowsill:

• install a convection valve;

• remove all unnecessary things from the windowsill, in particular potted indoor plants;

• replace the heating radiator or replace the window sill with a narrower one;

• Ventilate the room periodically.

How to eliminate condensation on PVC windows, shown in the video

Manufacturers of plastic windows claim that their double-glazed windows cannot be compared with wooden “Soviet” windows. Plastic windows do not let in sounds from the street, and you can forget about drafts with them. But it happens that promises remain promises - the wind continues to blow through the windows.

Why is it blowing from the windows?

The reason for drafts is not the design of the double-glazed windows. It's all about the technology of their installation. If the technology for producing plastic windows is European, then the method of installing them remains Russian. The windows are simply “set” on polyurethane foam, through which noise from the street and drafts pass perfectly.

If you critically examine the results of the work of window installers, you can easily notice shortcomings due to which double-glazed windows do not perform their functions well. Typically installers save on polyurethane foam- they use it in insufficient quantities, leave space unfilled with foam, etc.

In addition to the negligence of installers, there is another reason why windows are blown by all the winds. The fact is that polyurethane foam itself is not an ideal insulating material. Under the influence of changes in temperature, humidity, solar radiation it gradually deteriorates and loses its operational properties.

However, one of the reasons for the blowing may be a manufacturing defect of the window. A completely reasonable reason could be improperly sealed slopes.

Getting rid of drafts yourself

The first thing you need to pay attention to is the condition assembly seam. Wait for cool, windy weather outside and run a damp palm along the seam. In the place where the window allows air to pass through, you will feel a distinct chill. In such places it is necessary to carry out additional thermal insulation. Gaps and voids in the polyurethane foam must be filled with a new portion of foam.

If the cause of the draft lies in the wear of the seal, you should replace it with a new one. To do this, you will have to remove the double-glazed window, remove the old rubber band and stick a new one in its place. It happens that there is blowing from plastic windows due to the misalignment of the sashes. In such cases, it is recommended to adjust the fittings and the clamping mechanism.

If none of the methods described above helps, and the plastic windows are still blowing, you can do something drastic by ordering the installation of a new window. You can also hang blinds on the window. In addition to their main purpose, they cope well with drafts.