Methods of propagation of decorative thuja. Thuja is easily and simply propagated by cuttings. Reproduction

Thuja is an unpretentious and frost-resistant plant. It is often used for landscaping garden plots or country houses. However, thujas are an expensive pleasure, so it’s easier to breed them yourself. Moreover, following simple recommendations, thuja can be grown even without being an experienced gardener.

This plant can be propagated in two ways:

  • Using seeds;
  • Using twigs or cuttings.

The first method, which involves seeds, is very painstaking and time-consuming. It will take from two to six years. In addition, it is generally accepted that thujas grown from cuttings are more hardy. If you have decorative look thuja, also do not propagate it by seeds. It is best to choose propagation by branches.

Propagation of thuja by cuttings

For those who want to grow a similar plant, there is a very simple and affordable option– propagation of thuja by cuttings. Propagation of thuja in this way should occur in the fall. When preparing to propagate a plant, you have probably read many articles on the topic of how to propagate thuja from cuttings, and you know that the shoot must be healthy and strong. You should not choose branches that are too young or too old. Pay attention to those that grow in the middle of the tree.

Such shoots are usually already sufficiently strong, but have not yet become woody for reproduction. Tear off several shoots 50 cm long. At the end of the shoot there should be some tree bark left.

Experienced gardeners who know how to grow thuja from cuttings gave this plant the name “heel”. The longer the “heel”, the better the shoot will be rooted. In order to tear off a branch with such a “heel”, they usually use a knife or simply tear off the branch with a sharp downward movement. We remove all unnecessary twigs and leaves. It is necessary to prepare a pot with peat and leaf soil in advance (in a ratio of 1 to 1). We deepen the cutting itself two centimeters into the ground at an angle of 60 degrees. The area around the planted cuttings should be sprinkled with sand and lightly pressed with your finger.

It is necessary to ensure that the remaining leaves do not touch the peat. We water it and make a greenhouse on top of the cutting from a film or a simple jar. The more transparent the can, the better. After this, you should put the pot with the shoot in a bright and warm place. Humidity should not be higher than 70% at an air temperature of 23 degrees, otherwise the cuttings may rot. It is better to spray the cutting itself with water rather than water it at the root.

As soon as new shoots begin to appear on the cutting, this means that it is completely rooted.

However, it is too early to plant such a thuja in the garden. Start opening the greenhouse more often and letting the thuja “breathe some air.” Increase ventilation time, reducing greenhouse time to a minimum. As soon as the thuja gets used to the coolness, you can safely plant it in the garden.

How to grow thuja from a twig?

When deciding how to breed thuja, you can find several alternative methods. On the Internet you can find a lot of information on the question, which sounds like this: “How to grow a thuja from a branch?” The “instructions” are based on the same steps as when transplanting using cuttings. However, as with everything, there are some nuances. If you are interested in how to grow a thuja from a twig, then the cut of the branch itself must first be treated with a root formation stimulator. This will help the root system develop and take root in the new soil.

The tray with sand should be treated with a three percent solution of potassium permanganate. The branches themselves should be placed in the holes made in advance at an angle of 45 degrees. You can grow several branches at once in one tray. To do this, the distance between them should be from 3 to 5 cm.

When replanting using branches, make sure that direct sunlight does not fall on the tray with the shoots.

You can moisten using the same technology as when propagating by cuttings. Rooted branches will need to be planted in the spring, or you can keep them in greenhouse conditions until summer. This will make it more likely that your thuja will get used to new conditions faster and survive the first winter more calmly.


How to propagate thuja by cuttings in summer and autumn - detailed instructions
Don’t know how to cut and root cuttings correctly? coniferous plants? We will tell you how to turn a thuja twig into a strong, healthy seedling.

Cuttings are the most effective way to get new thuja plants. Unlike seed propagation, vegetative propagation does not take much time and allows you to preserve varietal characteristics.

Timing for thuja cuttings

Perhaps the most difficult thing in cutting conifers is to correctly determine the timing of this procedure. Experts have several opinions on this issue. Some advocate winter cuttings conifers in February. Others are sure that it is best to cut thuja in April. Still others claim that optimal time for harvesting cuttings - summer.

The main criterion that should be followed in this matter is whether the plant has stopped growing shoots. If the answer to this question is positive, then you can safely begin cuttings.

Summer cuttings of thuja are preferable because they allow the cuttings to gain strength and take root well for the next season.

How to cut cuttings?

For cuttings, choose a strong, healthy plant. In its upper part, a well-developed skeletal branch is found and with a sharp movement of the hand, 2-3-year-old lignified growths located at the ends of the shoot are torn off from it. In order for the cuttings to take root faster, they must be torn off with a small piece of bark (“heel”).

Thuja grown from a cutting taken from a side shoot may not grow correct form. A cutting from a diseased plant will naturally turn into a diseased seedling.

If the “heel” turns out to be too long, it is advisable to shorten it a little so that the stalk does not rot. If, when tearing off a twig, you slightly peel off the bark from the wood, the situation can be corrected with a knife - slightly clean the cut area.

The ideal length of a thuja cutting is 10-15 cm.

If the branches are very woody and you can’t tear them off carefully, use pruning shears.

Can cuttings be stored?

Thuja cuttings are rooted immediately after cutting. They cannot be stored, otherwise they will quickly become unusable and will not take good roots.

If you haven’t had time to prepare everything you need for rooting, you can briefly wrap the cuttings in a damp cloth and put them in a cool, dark place.

Preparing thuja cuttings for rooting

First of all, thuja branches are removed from excess needles. First of all, it is cut off at the bottom of the branch. If the cutting is too “lush”, you can also partially shorten the needles on the rest of the branch. The bottom of the cutting is also lightly cleared of bark.

Preparing the substrate for rooting

You can also use clean river sand or light, well-drained soil as a substrate.

The soil mixture for rooting thuja cuttings is prepared from peat, leaf soil and sand mixed in equal parts.

Soil or sand must be placed in shallow containers. For example, containers for seedlings or special cassettes are suitable.

Containers must have holes for drainage and aeration. Be sure to lay expanded clay, gravel or other small stones on one.

If you have such an opportunity, use sphagnum as a substrate. This moss retains moisture well and has powerful antiseptic properties. Thus, the cuttings will not be afraid of drying out and fungus.

Rooting thuja cuttings

When everything is ready for the procedure, remove the cuttings from the growth regulator solution and dip their tips in Kornevin. Immediately after this, insert the cuttings into the substrate at an angle of 45 degrees to a depth of 1.5-2 cm.

Then place the cuttings in a glass or plastic greenhouse, or cover them with film or a plastic bag.

If you are using sphagnum moss to root cuttings, wrap the cuttings in it, wrap them in gauze and place them in plastic bag.

Caring for cuttings

The cuttings are stored in a warm and bright place. However, it is important to consider that they need diffused light. Direct sunlight will quickly destroy thuja cuttings, and they will wither faster than they take root.

Water the substrate only after it dries top layer. Remember, an excess of moisture is equally destructive for cuttings, as is its lack.

Water carefully so that water does not get on the needles. It is advisable to use a spray bottle so that a strong stream of water does not expose the soil around the “heel” of the cutting.

The appearance of new shoots on thuja branches indicates that the cuttings have taken root.

If you rooted the cuttings in sphagnum or a common container, two weeks after rooting you need to plant them for growing in separate containers or a shkolka (a special bed in which the plants will grow before planting in permanent place). Prepare the soil mixture according to the same principle: mix garden soil with high-moor peat or forest litter.

Subsequent care of plants consists of regular watering, fertilizing and weeding. In November, young seedlings are covered with spruce branches, leaves or sawdust and left to overwinter under cover.

Thuja is especially loved by summer residents. Living thuja fences greatly decorate the site. But for such work, dozens of seedlings are needed. Therefore, the question of how to propagate thuja is very relevant for summer residents and owners suburban areas. An unpretentious frost-resistant thuja is often used to decorate summer cottages, adjacent areas. Reproduction of this conifer involves three methods: seed, cuttings, grown trees (ready seedlings). Let's look at all three.

The option with seeds is very long and labor-intensive, since by the time the bush is planted in the ground, at least 5 years will have passed. In addition, the thuja may lose its varietal characteristics during development, and the only advantage of such a situation will be the plant’s adaptation to the local climate. However, if you are interested in the process itself, then you will need a soil mixture (sand, pine, deciduous ground), quality seeds. It is important that the seed material first undergoes stratification - it overwinters under a layer of snow.

With the arrival of spring, thuja seeds are placed in containers with nutritious soil and covered with earth mixed with sawdust from coniferous crops. Propagation of thuja by seeds at home entails traditional concerns: protecting seedlings from the scorching rays of the sun, timely watering, getting rid of weeds, feeding. After 5 or even 6 years, young thujas can be planted on the site.

Cutting propagation is the most convenient, in an efficient way. The big advantage of this method is the preservation of the varietal qualities of the tree, as well as the ability to obtain full-fledged small trees in two or three years. Among the disadvantages, it is worth noting the reduced endurance and small percentage of bush survival. For this situation, this is a normal phenomenon; if you do everything according to the rules, then a positive result will not be long in coming.

Let's consider propagating thuja at home using cuttings. What time of year should I choose for this - spring or autumn?

Propagation of thuja by cuttings in spring

Most often, novice gardeners are concerned with the question of propagating thuja in the spring, how best to do it. During spring rooting, all processes go faster, as the movement of juices in the shoots is activated. Blank planting material practically no different from the method described above. To select cuttings, healthy branches from the top of the thuja, which are no more than 3 years old, are also used.

Propagation of thuja in spring is best done in April; when manually separating the branch, the “heel” should be preserved. If for some reason you missed April, then you can “catch” the second period of shoot growth - this is June. It must be taken into account that June cuttings will “sleep through” summer, autumn, winter, and will take root only in spring.

The best way for spring propagation is the substrate method and active moistening. Water or the diaper method are not suitable here due to insufficient moisture while the root system is being activated. The process itself is very similar to autumn cuttings, but sometimes the soil mixture is replaced with clean sand.

Thuja - propagation by cuttings in spring, stages:

  1. We place the selected shoots in water with “Kornevin” for 24 hours.
  2. We take boxes or other containers with a large number of holes in the bottom, lay a layer of medium-sized crushed stone.
  3. Pour clean sand on top, which can be calcined or doused with boiling water. You can also use soil mixture, which was mentioned above.
  4. We spill the sand with a solution of potassium permanganate; it should be pink, but not too dark.
  5. When the sand or substrate has cooled, immerse thuja branches there to a depth of 1-1.5 cm and lightly trample them with your hands.
  6. Since it is still cool in spring, containers with cuttings should be placed where conditions will be similar to greenhouse conditions. In this case, the air temperature should not be lower than +17ºС, higher than +23ºС.

This place should be shaded, the seedlings should be irrigated daily with a spray bottle. If the spring turns out to be hot, then spraying should be carried out twice a day. At the same time, make sure that moisture does not get on the green leaf plates - the process of rotting may begin. After two months, it will become clear which cuttings have taken root; by this time, the risk of the planting material drying out is significantly reduced.

Thuja - propagation by cuttings in autumn

But there is also an opinion that it is the autumn harvesting of twigs for planting that is more advisable, since in the fall the sap flow slows down, and accordingly, the number of seedlings that die from lack of moisture is reduced. It should be borne in mind that the rooting process will take longer. Let's take a closer look at the propagation of thuja in the spring

To collect twigs, it is better to choose a non-sunny day in October, when the leaves have already fallen from the trees (in Kuban this may be the beginning of November). It is best to pinch off shoots from the top; it is best to choose those branches that are already 3 or 4 years old.

Select only lignified branches, not exceeding 50 cm in length. The “correct” shoot should have a woody “heel” at the end - a part of the bark, thanks to which new roots will develop. The longer this “heel” is, the better the rooting process will be. Remove approximately 3-4 cm of leaf blades from the end of the shoot and proceed to the next step.

Propagation of thuja by cuttings in a jar of water

Water is the lightest in an accessible way activation of thuja roots. To do this, take a small container, fill it with water, place the branches so that the water covers the ends by about 2 cm. Do not place more than 3 or 5 cuttings. Make sure that the green parts of the shoots do not come into contact with water - this contributes to further rotting of the planting material. After this, choose a bright, slightly cool place for the container.

Caring for seedlings means timely replacement of water (when it becomes cloudy). At this time, the cuttings are removed from the jar, the roots are wrapped with a clean, damp cloth. New water should be disinfected with a couple of crystals of potassium permanganate.

Rooting thuja cuttings in a substrate, sphagnum

Propagation of thuja by cuttings in autumn is possible in different ways, for example, using a substrate. This method is more advantageous than the option with water, which does not contain any nutrients, but with a substrate the rooting process will be much more productive.

To make the seedlings healthier and hardier, prepare:

  1. Boxes or other shapes with holes (for soil aeration). Place fine gravel (drainage) on the bottom, mix equal parts of leaf humus, sand, and peat.
  2. Heat the resulting soil mixture in the oven. If you have potassium permanganate at home, then make a dark solution and additionally water the soil to be safe.
  3. Place the cuttings for 10-12 hours in water with pre-diluted biostimulating drug “Kornevin”.
  4. Fill the containers with substrate and make holes for the cuttings. Deepen the seedlings themselves by 1.5-2 cm, sprinkle sand on top (which can also be pre-calcined), and tamp lightly.
  5. Next, the box should be covered with plastic wrap and placed in a bright place, while the air temperature should be +18..22ºС. When condensation appears on the walls of the mini-greenhouse, slightly open the film on one side (for ventilation).

When rooting with substrate, it is important not to overdo it with watering and prevent the soil from drying out. It is better to moisturize by irrigating with a spray bottle, since the weight of the water can crush the soil and expose the “heel”.

There is another one interesting way, in which autumn propagation of thuja is carried out using sphagnum (peat moss). This method involves swaddling the shoots with a kind of cocoon, this method That’s what it’s called – rooting thuja cuttings in diapers.

In addition to sphagnum you will need polyethylene film, clean cloth, as well as the drug “Kornevin”.

  1. As described above, we place the thuja shoots in water with a root formation stimulator (for 10-12 hours).
  2. Pour boiled water over the sphagnum for about 3 hours so that it swells and is saturated with moisture.
  3. We lay out a wide strip of fabric on the table, visually divide its width in half, and evenly spread wet sphagnum along the entire length of the upper strip. The lower free part of the width of the diaper will be needed to cover the cuttings and moss, and then carefully roll up this strip into a roll.
  4. We place thuja branches at a short distance from each other, surrounding the “heels” with sphagnum.
  5. Covering the cuttings bottom strips, so that the green tops are free, roll up the roll.
  6. We place the resulting sack inside a plastic bag and hang it in a well-lit place (but not in direct sunlight).

This type of propagation of thuja by cuttings is considered the easiest; thanks to the moss, the required moisture level is maintained for a long time. A lack of moisture can be determined by the absence of condensation on the inner walls of the bag - if it is dry, then you should moisten the diaper with a spray bottle.

Growing thuja

Cuttings harvested in spring or autumn require growing. For this purpose, special beds are formed, which are called shkolka. They will stay there for 2 or 3 years, after which they will be transplanted to a permanent place of residence. Autumn cuttings are planted next year, and spring cuttings already in September of the current year.

The place for young thujas should be shaded, the soil should be peat (you can add 1 bucket per 1 m²), the cuttings are planted at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other and watered. On at this stage The seedlings will already gain strength, all you have to do is care for them properly - water them in a timely manner and destroy weeds.

Reproduction of thuja is an interesting and productive process, since you can get dozens of “babies” from one tree. After 2-3 years, these will be full-fledged small trees, with the help of which you can landscape your area and give it individuality.

Thuja is an unpretentious coniferous plant that is widely used in landscape design. It is used to form hedges and entire alleys, which require dozens or even hundreds of young trees at once. Therefore, to quickly green up an area, propagation of thujas by cuttings is practiced. Let's look at the benefits of cuttings and how to implement them.

Advantages of the vegetative method

Despite the fact that when propagating thujas by cuttings, less hardy plants are obtained compared to seedlings grown from seeds, this method is somewhat popular. And there are a number of explanations for this:

  • When growing varietal thuja, this is the only way to preserve its specific appearance. Seed propagation does not always allow one to preserve maternal qualities;
  • For all seeds coniferous trees natural stratification is necessary. It allows you to get fairly hardy specimens. Since the process takes a long time, it will take a long time to wait for full-fledged seedlings ready for planting. This usually takes up to 6 years;
  • Cuttings allow you to obtain young, mature thujas, ready for planting in a permanent place in 3 or even 2 years.

The vegetative method of propagation of thuja has one more small disadvantage. As a rule, in the process of obtaining seedlings for hedges, only 70-80% of the plants survive from the total number of harvested branches. And this is subject to all the rules for the propagation of coniferous plants. If you make obvious mistakes, the percentage of rooted cuttings is sharply reduced. Therefore, strictly follow the instructions below.

Features of autumn breeding

Propagating thuja by cuttings in the fall gives you a better chance of getting healthy seedlings. At this time, the movement of juice slows down. Therefore, the number of dead branches from lack of water will be reduced. But when harvesting them during the period of vegetative dormancy, you will have to spend more time for rooting than when harvesting during the period of intensive growth.

Preparation of twigs

If autumn has already arrived, this does not mean that it is time to harvest twigs. Then the question arises, when is the best time to propagate evergreen thujas from cuttings? This should be done on a cloudy October day, when deciduous trees are actively falling off. You also need to be careful when choosing a tree and branches:

  • In order for the seedlings to develop a beautiful crown of the correct shape, it is better to choose apical shoots;
  • Select branches from tall trees that have been growing for 3-4 years;
  • The selected material must be lignified, otherwise rooting will be ineffective;
  • The length of the shoot should not exceed 50 cm.

Now let’s talk about how to prepare thuja cuttings for autumn propagation. Tear off the branches from the shoots so that at the end of each there remains a piece of wood and lignified bark - the heel. The longer the heel, the better. But you need to cut off those places where the bark has begun to come off. Additionally, cut off all scaly foliage at a distance of up to 30 mm from the heel.

Rooting methods

After the autumn preparation of thuja cuttings for propagation has been completed, choose the method of rooting them:

  • In the water;
  • In the substrate;
  • In a diaper.

To propagate thuja from lignified cuttings, you can use the simplest method - in water. To do this, pour water into a container with a column height of 10-15 mm. No more than three cuttings can be placed in each container. Dip only the heel into the water - the leaves should not touch its surface. Place the jars in a cool place, but not deprived of natural light.

Plain water is devoid of nutrients, so the rooting branches with this method weaken and subsequently take root poorly. If you are interested in how to grow thuja from cuttings so that the seedlings are more hardy, then pay attention to the method of propagation in the substrate:

  • Prepare containers for filling with substrate. They should have many holes for soil aeration;
  • Place a little crushed expanded clay or gravel at the bottom to create a drainage layer;
  • Mix equal parts peat leaf soil and sand. Heat the mixture and pour in a dark solution of potassium permanganate;
  • Then place the thuja cuttings prepared for propagation in water for 12 hours. To stimulate the appearance of roots, dissolve the growth stimulator Kornevin;
  • Fill the containers with substrate and make indentations;
  • Immerse the branches at an angle of 60 degrees to a depth of 15 mm;
  • Sprinkle the substrate on top river sand and seal.

You can root thuja branches harvested in the fall in a diaper. For this you will need:

  • Plastic bag;
  • Sphagnum;
  • Disposable baby diaper;
  • Kornevin or Kornerost;

Place thuja cuttings prepared in the fall for 10-12 hours in a solution with a growth stimulator. Then:

  • Spread the diaper with the absorbent layer facing up;
  • Soak the sphagnum moss in boiled, cooled water and place it in the center of the diaper;
  • Place thuja branches on the moss at some distance from each other;
  • Bend the diaper so that the heels are between its layers;
  • Roll the diaper so that only the heels are in it, and the tops of the branches peek out from one side;
  • Place the folded diaper in a plastic bag and hang it on a window or place it between frames.

This method of propagating thuja is highly effective and simple care for cuttings during the rooting period. Sphagnum moss and the absorbent layer of the diaper prevent water from evaporating. Therefore, the heels of the branches are constantly in a moist state. Additionally, moss has bactericidal properties, and the risk of rotting is sharply reduced.

Features of care during the autumn rooting period

If you propagate decorative thuja by cuttings taken in the fall, putting the sprigs in water, then care only consists of changing it. This will prevent heels from rotting. To change the water, first remove the cuttings by wrapping their bases damp cloth. Rinse the container and pour new water into the bottom. You can add a little potassium permanganate. Then place the cuttings.

If you decide to root cuttings of your favorite thuja variety in the substrate, then main task the soil will become moist. This should be done with a spray bottle so that the earth does not settle, exposing the heels. Do not allow the earthen clod to dry out too much, but do not overdo it with watering. Excess moisture can lead to rotting of the heel or root system.

The most trouble-free care for rooted thuja cuttings taken for propagation in the fall will be when rooted in a swaddling blanket of sphagnum moss. The absorbent diaper layer and moss hold water so well that you rarely need to moisturize. Look at the bag of twigs. The presence or absence of condensation on inside package serves as an indicator of sufficient moisture or its deficiency. In the second case, it’s time to moisten the diaper a little.

Propagation of thuja by cuttings in spring

have their own characteristics spring ways propagation of decorative thujas by cuttings. At this time, sap flow and the growth of new shoots are activated. Therefore, rooting should occur faster. But this cutting method has a drawback. Since the plant is actively growing, it needs a lot of moisture. And if you forget to moisten it at least once, then the twig is unlikely to produce a root.

How to harvest cuttings in spring

How to properly prepare cuttings for propagating varietal thujas has already been discussed above. Here the rules for choosing shoots differ little. Healthy branches from the top of the tree that are no more than 3 years old are suitable. To prepare the material, you need to tear off the branches with a sharp movement so that a small heel remains.

If you did not have time to prepare thuja cuttings in April, then postpone the matter until July, when the second phase of growth begins. But you will only be able to get rooted seedlings by next spring.

Rooting methods

It is best to root thuja cuttings in the substrate during spring propagation. Twigs need a lot of moisture and at least a minimum of nutrition. But in plain water or a diaper with moss during active growth they are not enough.

Instructions for rooting spring cuttings:

  • Place the branches in Kornevin solution for a day;
  • Prepare containers with plenty of holes;
  • Place a drainage layer in the form of crushed gravel or expanded clay at the bottom;
  • Fill the containers with river sand, possibly with an admixture of silt (natural fertilizer);
  • Pour boiling water over the sand and then treat it with a pink solution of potassium permanganate;
  • Stick the prepared cuttings into the cooled substrate to a depth of 10-15 mm and compact sand around them.

Since propagation of thuja by cuttings occurs early spring, it’s still too cold outside for the branches torn off from the parent tree. Therefore, containers with them need to be placed in a greenhouse in a shaded place or in a suitable spunbond greenhouse. Please note temperature regime. The temperature should not be lower than 17 o C. But heat from 23 o C will not bring health to the plant.

Many gardeners do not like propagating thuja by cuttings in the spring only because complex care for seedlings. They need to be sprayed daily. What if it's on the street hot weather, then you need to moisten the substrate twice. But you cannot wet the thuja leaves, otherwise they will rot. After two months, the first roots will begin to appear, and the risk of drying out will decrease.

Growing up in schools

When the thuja cuttings prepared in the spring or autumn have given roots, they need to be transplanted for growing into a shkolka - a special bed, where they will spend 2-3 years before being transplanted to a permanent place. Autumn branches are replanted next year, spring ones - the same year, in September:

  • Select a site for the formation of a school. It should be in partial shade;
  • Dig up the ground and add some peat (a bucket per square meter is enough);
  • Water containers with rooted cuttings so that they can be easily removed without damaging the roots;

Of the numerous coniferous trees, the cypress family, in particular, the thuja, is in greatest demand among gardeners and summer residents - this unpretentious, evergreen tree pleases the eye in winter and summer and serves as an excellent decoration for any site. Thujas are planted along fences and paths, and they decorate resting areas, as thujas smell pleasant and fresh, and the trees purify the air around them with the phytoncides they release.

Thuja is also interesting for land owners because it can be propagated and grown at home without spending too much effort and money on it: purchasing seedlings in stores is not a cheap pleasure.

Growing thuja with seeds


This is what thuja seeds look like

If you are unable to provide for yourself the right amount cuttings, they resort to propagating the tree by seed.

This process is painstaking and lengthy (from 3-5 years), but it allows you to grow enough planting material to realize all your ideas, and the remaining specimens can be given as gifts to relatives or friends.

You need to start by harvesting fresh seeds; they will ensure good germination.

The seed collection period occurs at the end of summer - beginning of autumn. Cones with seeds must be collected before they begin to open, and placed in a dry room until completely dry.

The seeds will be ready in 2-3 days, they will easily begin to spill out of the cones, small, brown or reddish.

After receiving seeds, it is best to sow them as soon as possible, when long-term storage in warm rooms they lose their germination percentage.

Autumn (early winter) sowing


We make grooves at a distance of 5-6 cm from each other

With this propagation method, the crops will undergo natural stratification, which will ensure stronger seedlings and their active growth. To do this you will need:

  1. Suitable wooden box fill with prepared soil consisting of 1 part turf soil, 2 parts peat, 0.5 parts fine-grained sand.
  2. Level and compact the soil.
  3. In-depth make grooves at a distance of 5–6 cm, slightly widening them for ease of sowing.
  4. Distribute the seeds evenly among the rows and sprinkle with a 1 cm thick layer of soil.
  5. Carefully water from, being careful not to wash the seeds.

Place the box in a convenient place outside, preferably under a spreading tree, so that the sun dries out the soil in the box less. And in the spring, the branches of the tree will protect the seedlings from direct sunlight. Moderate watering is required as the soil dries; seeds should not be watered, otherwise they will begin to rot.

Pre-winter sowing can be carried out directly into the ground, preparing a small bed in partial shade, because bright direct sun will be destructive for young seedlings. Care should be taken to ensure that pets do not enter the garden bed by fencing it or covering it with non-woven material.

Spring sowing

If sowing thuja seeds was planned for the spring, they must be hardened (stratified) so that the seedlings are strong and fully developed. You will need:

  1. Before the onset of cold weather, bury the seeds wrapped in a cloth shallowly in the ground and cover with a layer of fallen leaves.
  2. To prevent seeds from freezing, make sure that they are covered with snow or provide additional insulation.
  3. With the onset of spring, after the snow has melted, remove the seeds from the ground, transfer them to a suitable container, sprinkle with damp sand, and place in the refrigerator until sowing.

By the end of March - beginning of April, when the ground warms up, you can plan to sow the seeds in the ground. Sowing is done shallow, the distance between rows is 10-15 cm. The sown seeds are sprinkled completely thin layer soil and carefully watered.

Further care consists of regularly moistening the soil, killing weeds, and shading the seedlings from the sun.


You can plant each seed in a separate pot so that future sprouts grow and develop individually for a whole year, until the next transplant:

  1. Purchase special soil for coniferous plants in advance.
  2. Prepare pots or cups, pour a layer of drainage on the bottom, soil on top, compact it, and pour in a solution of potassium permanganate.
  3. Place the seeds that have been soaked a day before sowing and hatched in pots, pour warm water on top.
  4. Place the cups in a warm place and cover with foil on top.
  5. After the sprouts appear, take the cups to a cool, bright place. If the pubescent roots are on the surface, they should be sprinkled with sand and moistened with a spray bottle.

During the summer autumn period pots with young sprouts can be taken outside and placed under a tree.

Caring for seedlings in boxes

  • In the first year, seedlings grow only 7 cm, it does not require special care, the main requirements are watering, spraying, adding soil, fertilizing.
  • Next year in the spring they begin to pick seedlings in individual pots or cups with soil for coniferous plants. After the seedlings have taken root, they can be placed outside, finding a shaded place, regularly watering and inspecting the seedlings in order to identify diseased specimens in time. In winter, the cups are carried away into shelter.
  • In the third year, the seedlings must again be transplanted into pots larger size , from May they can be safely taken outside, and in the fall they can be planted in a prepared permanent place, leaving the root collar at soil level.

Propagation of thuja by cuttings


Thuja cuttings need to be torn off with the heel

For cuttings, you can use the end of April, until the buds are completely swollen, or the middle - end of June, when the growth of shoots stops. Woody branches 30–40 cm long are taken from young healthy thujas, 2–3 years old. You need to tear off the cuttings so that along with them a piece of bark (“heel”) comes away from the mother tree.

Clear the lower edges of the broken branches 8-10 cm from the needles, soak in one of the root formation stimulants (proceed according to the instructions).

During this time, prepare a bed with suitable soil:

  • peat;
  • river sand;
  • turf land.

The components are taken in equal quantities and mixed. The soil is brought into the garden bed, mixed with garden soil, and spilled with a solution of potassium permanganate. The cuttings are buried 2-3 cm, water to compact the soil around the cuttings. Further watering is replaced by spraying, this creates the required humidity.

Growing thuja from a twig

This method of propagation is almost no different from planting cuttings. From the middle part of a healthy tree you like, cut off branches 25–35 cm high with sharp scissors; the larger the branch, the better it will take root. The cut is treated with “Kornevin” or “Heteroauxin”, all lower leaves are deleted.

  1. A hole is prepared in a secluded, semi-shaded, damp place, the soil is loosened well, organic fertilizer is added, and water is spilled.
  2. After the soil is saturated with water, a thuja sprig is stuck in, the ground around it is slightly compacted.
  3. The planted branch is covered with a jar or transparent plastic bottle, the edges are sprinkled with earth, and again a little water is poured from a watering can.

The jar or bottle will need to be removed periodically for ventilation, but not earlier than 2 weeks after planting.

Rules for caring for thuja sprouts from cuttings and twigs

After rooting cuttings and twigs, they need regular watering (but not waterlogging), regular spraying of needles, fertilizing 2-3 times complex fertilizers, constant removal of weeds, frequent surface loosening of the soil.

Before the onset of cold weather, insulate the ground around the trunks with bark, dry leaves, sawdust or spruce branches, and top part Wrap young trees with film.

September next year- time to replant the grown trees to a permanent place.

It is important not to bury the trees, leave the root collar at soil level, deeper planting will lead to the death of the plant.


Tui is afraid of direct sunlight and drafts

Conical, pyramidal, egg-shaped, spherical - thujas will become a wonderful decoration for any garden if you provide them with proper care.

The landing site must be chosen such that:

  • direct sunlight fell on the trees in the mornings or evenings, exposure to the daytime sun will dehydrate the needles, the plant will lose its beauty;
  • Thuja does not tolerate strong winds and drafts; if it is planted in such a place, it will be difficult for it to endure winters;
  • dense shadow will affect the density of the crown, it will be sparse and unattractive;
  • Arborvitae love moist soil, but prolonged late spring flooding will destroy them.
  • Only a year after planting, when the tree is stronger and well rooted, can you begin to feed it.

To maintain the correct shape, the trees need decorative pruning: from the age of two years, the branches that extend beyond the shape are cut off with sharp pruning shears design idea. Experienced gardeners They believe that it is better to do minor but frequent pruning.