How to build scaffolding from planks. Scaffolding. Selecting the type of scaffolding

If you have a need to perform work on the facade, you will not be able to do without scaffolding.

They are temporary structures and represent metal structures, which are used in construction, finishing and restoration work on buildings and structures. The advantage of these structures is that their installation and dismantling is carried out directly on construction sites. If necessary, the structure can be easily moved along the wall. In addition, construction scaffolding is a convenient structure for temporary use, on which you can perform work related to the facade: insulation, finishing, painting. Can be done minor work for restoration of wooden window frames, make slopes for window openings.

Not only professional builders, but also many ordinary summer residents, as well as owners of private houses and country cottages need to purchase scaffolding with removable decking (scaffolding) - after all, when there is a need to tint the roof gables or update facade finishing at home, you may need not just a ladder or stepladder, but something more serious.

Scaffolding on “envelopes” has recently become a fairly popular option that you can make yourself. As you can see in the photographs below, such construction scaffolds have wide range applications, from production brickwork to finishing works. Due to the simplicity and low cost of their design, you can easily organize scaffolding at the required height and carry out work on painting, whitewashing, restoring surfaces, washing windows, installing slopes and platbands, etc.

Why is this option popular among builders?

The main advantage is that the scaffolding can be made independently. At the same time building material It doesn't cost much at all. Well, and a plus to everything: simplicity and ease of assembly/disassembly of the structure. Having completed the work, they are disassembled and stored until better times in a secluded corner of the barn.

What are scaffoldings with “envelopes” made of?

“Envelope” is a scaffold that represents a support platform in the form of a triangle. The supports are made from a variety of lumber available on site, e.g. edged boards. The main thing is that the board is strong, with a minimum cross-section of 50x50 mm. (see figure No. 1).

Rice. 1, Supporting platform - “envelope”. 1 — L-shaped bracket; 2 - jib.

Then, it is necessary to build L-shaped brackets - the boards are knocked down, after which the sides are sheathed with wooden slats.

The dimensions of the site must be constructed based on the safe operation of the structure. The support platform is not large in size, it is quite inconvenient to work with, and you will also have to move it often. By making scaffolding of a large area, you can expose yourself to a traumatic situation; there is a possibility of envelopes being torn off the wall. Taking this into account, the size of the platform must be calculated in this way: the size of a human foot is on average 350-400 mm, taking this size of the horizontal platforms of the scaffolding, a person can stand with a full foot, without fear of falling from a height.

Now that the scaffolding is ready, the support platform is secured, all that remains is to install it at the required height so that you can reach the required level. You will also need a couple of supports; you can use a 150x50 mm edged board. Before installing them, the supports must be made sharp at the base so that they rest against the ground, and the upper ends along the contour of the “envelope” cornerslightly beveled for a tight fit, as shown in Fig. 2.

Rice. 2 Installation of scaffolding: 1 - support-slightly; 2 - “envelope”; 3 - flooring boards; 4 - supporting surface.

Then, after the “envelope” flooring is raised to the required height, it must be secured. Vertical part L-shaped bracket should be nailed to the wall using regular long nails. It is advisable to not drive the nails all the way in, otherwise it will be difficult to remove them when dismantling.

Now you can lift and install the flooring itself. The boards are laid at the required height and nailed to the horizontal shelf of the brackets. The nails in these places can be driven completely into the boards, this will make the structure more durable.

Advice: To make the nails easier to get out, they can be driven into the boards through thin slats-spacers; when dismantling, they are simply split with a nail puller.

!Attention Be careful when working at heights. Follow safety precautions on. Remember that when making construction scaffolds yourself, you need to check the strength of each of the structural components.

Sooner or later, construction reaches the finishing of the facade. And here the need arises to carry out work in the height range from 4 to 10 meters. After all, the gables need to be hemmed, the siding needs to be installed, the façade elements need to be painted, and the drainage system needs to be installed.

There is only one way out - to install scaffolding or a tower. But industrial building structures expensive, and the price of a tower with a working height of 8-10 meters is very steep. You can rent them, but if the work takes a long time, such a rental will cost a pretty penny.

Metal or wood

Scaffolding can be made of wood or metal. The practical experience of forum members suggests that it is economically feasible to erect metal structures only if “free” iron is available. If you buy metal, fasteners, study welding work, then such structures will ultimately cost more than factory ones and, especially, wooden ones.

While scaffolding can be carefully disassembled and the boards put to use, metal ones are doomed to gather dust in utility block. Experienced builders will tell you that high-quality scaffolding or a tower can then be rented out. But few private developers will want to tinker with this. Therefore, the majority of forum users still prefer wooden structures.

HukTo member FORUMHOUSE

Metal scaffolding is better than wooden scaffolding, but the main trump card of wooden scaffolding is the relative cheapness, simplicity and speed of their production.

Advice from FORUMHOUSE: it is better to build your own wooden scaffolding from high-quality lumber. A quality board, unlike waste material, which will have to be thrown away after use, can be used in a new construction project.

DIY scaffolding for your home.

How to make scaffolding from planks

Before you start making homemade wooden structures, you need to decide on the scope of work. If in one case they can be the simplest - attached (for lining gables, siding country house etc.), then in other cases (finishing the facade with stone or brick, plastering work etc.) a more serious design is needed.

The dimensions of the base unit are as follows:

Length – 5 m;
Width – 1 m;
Height (thickness) – 3.5 m.

The construction took 60 linear meters boards 150x50mm.

Buryat member FORUMHOUSE

They are called "scaffolding - envelope".

DIY construction scaffolding

The design itself looks like the letter G attached to. A 150x50 board is taken as a basis, another board is nailed to it perpendicularly - a support platform, on which the flooring is then laid.
One of essential elements Such structures are jibs - boards 25-50x100, with which two main boards knocked together at right angles are sheathed on the sides.

Usually 3 jibs are nailed on each side. Thus, the rigidity of the entire structure is achieved.

Such forests do not need a rigid connection with the house. The force load is carried by the support board, which at one end rests against the place where the boards are attached, and at the other - the pointed end - is stuck into the ground.

If the house is wooden or frame, then scaffolding can be nailed to the wall. If the facade cannot be damaged, then they are leaned against the wall, and the main load is carried by the supporting board.

When choosing the size of “envelopes”, you should adhere to the following requirements. If the site is too narrow, it will be difficult and dangerous to walk on it. If the platform is too wide, then the “envelope” may come off the wall. Optimal size platforms – 400-500 mm.

The main advantage of attached structures is that their manufacture does not require a lot of lumber.

Buryat member FORUMHOUSE

The supporting board and, accordingly, the height of the scaffolding can be increased. If the length of the board increases (more than 6 m), then for the rigidity of the structure, another board rests in the corner between the wall and the blind area, the other end of which is attached to the middle of the first - the main board.

Despite the fact that the design is widely known, at the first glance at such structures you doubt their reliability - it’s scary to look at! Let's turn to the practical experience of users of our site.

Zark member FORUMHOUSE

We call such forests “Armenian”. When I first saw such a design, I was surprised at how it even held up. I tried it, climbed onto the flooring - quite reliably. I myself have used attached scaffolding more than once, both on wood and on brick house. They are convenient, quickly assembled and disassembled. They don't take up much space.

Armenian scaffolding.

Drosha member FORUMHOUSE

This type of forest is quite safe. There is no need to attach the boards to the walls, but the flooring must be screwed with self-tapping screws to the supports (do not knock it down with nails, so that you can quickly disassemble it later).

How to Build Scaffolding for Heavy Duty Work

But such “Armenian” scaffolding is not suitable for all work - mainly for light work. They are good as scaffolding for painting a house, etc. For “heavy” work that requires working with tools, solutions, finishing the facade with stone, etc. a more permanent structure must be used.

The assembly of the structure is done as follows:

Take a six-meter board (150/200x50) and place it vertically against the wall;
A second board is placed parallel to it;
They are secured to each other by horizontal bars. Next, according to the same scheme, the second support is mounted and the flooring is laid;
For greater rigidity, the racks are supported by additional brace boards that rest against the ground;
As necessary, the scaffolding is increased in height by attaching additional vertical boards.

Standard dimensions of one span of such scaffolding:

The step between the racks is 2-2.5 m;
The width of the flooring for work is 1 m.

DIY wooden scaffolding.

diews FORUMHOUSE member

We made forests like this last summer. They were not attached to the wall. They placed only one wall at a time and then moved it. The main thing is to make braces and stops, and the structure will stand like a glove.

How to make scaffolding better: gpush against the screws

There is always a lot of controversy about how to put together scaffolding,
how to fasten the boards to each other. The opinions of forum members are divided: some believe that it can be assembled with self-tapping screws, others are categorically against it - only with nails.

The main argument of opponents of self-tapping screws is their fragility. The self-tapping screw does not work well under shock loads and shear loads. The result is that the cap flies off, the structure loses strength, even to the point of self-destruction.

How to build scaffolding for cladding a house.

Igor Kokhanov member of FORUMHOUSE

I recommend fastening everything with 120 mm nails with the obligatory bend of the tip on the crossbars and on the jibs. And no self-tapping screws! I'll tell you such a case. Builders I knew were doing the roof. They fastened the boards with self-tapping screws. The result is that the structures separated, all four of them flew from a height of five meters. The result is one in the hospital with broken kidneys. The second was a severe bruise to the leg. But they got off easily; if the altitude had been greater, everything could have ended much worse.

That's why this happened. The nail is made of relatively soft metal. Under load it bends and does not break. The self-tapping screw is made of hardened metal and under alternating and shock loads, it will first bend a little and then break. Moreover, the so-called “black” self-tapping screws, due to hardening, are much more brittle than anodized yellow ones.

For collapsible wooden structures, bolts with a hexagonal head (under a washer) with a diameter of 8 mm and special metal fasteners are well suited.

The main argument of opponents of nails is that it will no longer be possible to carefully disassemble the scaffolding that has been nailed together, and part of the good board will have to be thrown out or used for rough work. And the structural elements will be kept from shifting by the large friction force that occurs between the boards if you use self-tapping screws 120 - 150 mm long. Therefore, you need to make a compromise - use self-tapping screws to assemble scaffolding “on the ground”. In this case, if an error occurs at the first stage of scaffolding collection, they can be quickly disassembled and rebuilt. And only then additionally nail everything together properly.

Any construction of a house or facade works cannot do without the use of scaffolding. As a rule, scaffolding is made of wood or metal. Wooden scaffolding is, of course, easier to produce. To ensure the durability of the structure and enhance its strength, metal is chosen.

It all depends on the task and the required wear resistance of the particular scaffolding. The larger the working area, the more attention should be paid to strength. For the construction of private houses or adjacent structures, scaffolding is created 2.5 meters high and 1 m wide. It is better not to build a structure higher than 6 meters, because increasing the height of the structure reduces its stability.

The standard design involves the use of the following components:

Boards for flooring and lintels 10 cm wide and 5 cm thick. Beams for racks and stops measuring 10x10 cm. Nails or self-tapping screws (for small structures).

Spacers are placed between the legs to add strength to the structure. The racks are fastened with flooring and jumpers. To move between levels of scaffolding (up and down), steps are made from beams attached to racks, or an extension ladder is used.

Metal structures are assembled from steel or aluminum pipes. For this you need the following materials:

welding machine

Pipes 15 mm. are cut into 2 meter lengths and their ends are flattened.

From 30 mm. pipes are made into sections measuring 0.75 m (the length of one jumper) and 1.5 m.

The structural components are fastened together by welding or bolts. The jumpers are fixed crosswise on both sides. When one section is ready, you can build the next one.

Safety precautions during construction work should be paramount, so do not try to assemble and disassemble scaffolding more than two or three times. They lose strength from reusable assemblies.

Always check the strength of the assembly before starting work.

The need for scaffolding arose along with the need to construct or decorate buildings with a height of more than two floors.

The first such structures were made of wood, which is why they were called scaffolding. They are built around a building that needs to be repaired and are different types. Let's look at the most common types of scaffolding.

Wooden scaffolding

Wood has long been widely used in construction, and it can be used to construct scaffolding for finishing and repair work taking place at low altitudes. Typically this type of scaffolding is used for private homes or low-rise buildings. Since this type of scaffolding is the simplest and easiest to implement, we present the technology for its manufacture.

To construct wooden scaffolding, you will need boards 150x50 mm long, half a meter long, pieces of thin boards 25x100 mm, two long boards of fifty for supports and long boards of the required length for horizontal flooring.

First, triangular supports for the scaffolding are knocked together from the scraps of fifty, and then they are sheathed with thinner boards. The dimensions of the support triangles should be chosen based on the following factors: the support should not move away from the wall under the weight of the builder and its own weight, and there should also be enough space for a worker standing on the platform. In this regard, the length of the scaffold is usually chosen to be 400-500 mm, and the worker’s feet should not sag beyond the platform.

The supports are attached to the supports at sharp angles.

In this case, the upper end of the support is cut so as to insert it inside the support triangle, and bottom part sharpened to secure it in the ground. After this, the scaffolding is brought to the desired position and the vertical part of the triangular supports is fastened to the wall with nails, without driving them in to the very tops, since then, after finishing the work, they will need to be removed. Then they place the ladder and begin to nail the flooring boards to the supports, in this case the nails are driven in all the way.

Before starting construction work, you should make sure that the structure is stable, and in general, wooden scaffolding should not be made higher than seven meters.

Metal scaffolding

They are made from aluminum or steel pipes, and there are two options for such structures: modular and frame. TO modular types include suspended, wedge, clamp and modular (system) scaffolding. Frame scaffolding includes pin, flag and tower scaffolding.

All metal scaffolding requires anchoring to the walls of the building, and without such attachment, the height of the scaffolding should not be more than four meters, and then only on condition that the base under the scaffolding is perfectly horizontal and compacted.

Let's look at the main types of metal scaffolding.

Flag (frame) scaffolding

Such structures can withstand loads of up to 200 kg/sq.

meter. They consist of side frames, racks for horizontal and diagonal fastening of the side frames to each other and shoes for support on the ground. The dimensions of such scaffolding may differ depending on the manufacturer, but the construction scheme is the same.

Such scaffolding is easy to assemble and inexpensive, so it is very common. The frame scaffold fasteners are inserted into holes specially designed for this purpose and secured by turning. In the vertical plane, the parts are connected by inserting the frame into the groove below the located element.

Tower tour

These scaffoldings can withstand a load of 200 kg/sq.m.

meter. Such structures are often used for repairing and finishing individual sections of building facades. Since it is quite expensive to build scaffolding around the entire building, and it takes a lot of time to assemble and disassemble them, a tower-tour is used.

It is a construction of their finished frames with a ladder, with wheels attached to its base. If frames with a height of over 4 meters are used, then additional spacers are attached to the frame of the first tier, and if the tiers of the tower extend to 2/3 of the maximum height, then it is attached to the wall of the building with brackets or anchors. Such tower tours can be from 4 to 21 meters high and vary in the number of tiers.

Pin scaffolding

Used with a maximum load of 200 kg/sq.m.

meter. Horizontal elements their structures are fastened using pins, which are inserted into hollow pipe-eyes on vertical racks. Each level of scaffolding is assembled in stages, and the lower ends of the rack supports are inserted into the shoes.

For greater rigidity, diagonal braces are used. They can be mounted to a height of up to 40 meters, and are most often used for masonry work. Such scaffolding is made of steel tubes with a large wall thickness, and therefore they are capable of experiencing heavy loads.

Wedge scaffolding

Such structures with a standard load of 200-300 kg/sq.

meter have more complex design than the options described above. Their elements are secured with steel wedges driven in with a hammer. This increases the strength of the scaffolding, which is why they are used under heavy loads.

The special shape of the wedge prevents wedging. 8-hole flange rack locks are also used. Such scaffolding is used at heights of up to 40 meters for high-rise construction and finishing works.

Clamp scaffolding

Their standard load is 200-250 kg/sq.m. meter.

All elements are connected using clamps (rotary or blind), into which crossbars and racks are inserted and then secured with threaded bolts. The disadvantages include the complexity of assembly, but such scaffolding can be mounted to a height of up to 80 meters. Clamp scaffolding can also be used to work with complex architectural elements, such as arches and domes.

Which type of scaffolding to choose depends, first of all, on the purpose of its use. Thus, for work at high heights, pin or clamp scaffolding is used, and for construction and finishing work at low heights, frame scaffolding is used.

Evaluate the manufacturing method:

A person's height is less than the height of the house, so it is impossible to lay walls or finish the facade without scaffolding or scaffolding. These designs allow you to safely work at heights and make it possible to always have a supply of consumables on hand.

Builders have their own terminology used to refer to such devices.

They call forests structures that are quite long and tall. Scaffolding “goats” are usually called low portable tables which can accommodate no more than two people.

If you have to lay walls, insulate, repair or decorate the facade, then think in advance about what scaffolding or scaffolding will be required for the work. For our part, we will tell you how to make scaffolding with your own hands strong and stable, saving a lot of money on their rental.

Scaffolding design options

Despite the wide variety of types of scaffolding, their designs contain elements that are identical in purpose:

Vertical posts (accept the working load and transfer it to the ground). Diagonal and horizontal ties (provide spatial rigidity of the frame). Lintels (short side elements of the scaffolding on which the flooring is laid). Flooring (boards knocked together, serving as a working platform for builders) .Thoring slopes (protect scaffolding from tipping over). Railings (protect workers from falling). Stairs (serve for ascent and descent from work platforms).

The material for assembling scaffolding and scaffolding is traditionally wood or metal. A wooden structure is cheaper than a steel one, but can withstand no more than two or three reassemblies. After that, it is only suitable for firewood.

Metal scaffolding is several times more expensive than wood, but has no restrictions on the number of cycles of use. They are easily dismantled and moved to a new location. Their design allows you to build additional tiers as work progresses, increasing the working height.

If your plans include the construction of several residential buildings and outbuildings, then it is better to make homemade scaffolding from profile metal. If high-altitude work will be carried out only once and at one site, then it is more profitable to assemble a structure from beams and boards.

Features of making wooden and metal scaffolding with your own hands

Before you start preparing parts for assembly, you should make a schematic drawing and put on it the main dimensions of the structure.

There is no need to fantasize here, since construction practice has already determined the optimal dimensions of scaffolding:

the maximum height of the structure is 6 meters; the distance between the posts is from 2.0 to 2.5 meters; the width of the working floor is 1 meter.

Ergonomics has established that maximum productivity is achieved when the builder’s hands during work are 30-40 cm below chest level. Therefore, jumpers for installing the first flooring must be placed at a height of 40-50 cm from the ground level. This will save you from having to put together low scaffolding.

It is better to provide fastenings for the second level flooring at a height of 180-200 cm. The third flooring is placed at a level of 360-400 cm.

If you decide to make a structure from boards, then buy the following set of lumber and fasteners in advance:

For cutting racks and thrust braces - timber with a cross-section of 10x10 cm or boards at least 10 cm wide and 5 cm thick. Spacers, ties and railings can be made from edged boards "thirty". For the flooring and lintels on which it will lie, you will need boards 4-5 cm thick.

When choosing between nails and self-tapping screws, you should remember that nails are more difficult to remove when dismantling scaffolding.

Self-tapping screws, on the contrary, are quickly unscrewed from wood with a screwdriver. However, they are worse at breaking than nails, since they are made of brittle hardened steel. Therefore, for the manufacture of small scaffolding, we can recommend the use of nails, and for long and tall structures - self-tapping screws.

Scaffolding The boards are assembled in this order:

horizontal lintels

If there is a need to install two or more sections wooden scaffolding, then they can be tied together with wide pieces of boards, stuffing them onto adjacent racks. To prevent nails from splitting short boards, drill holes in them before nailing. Scaffolding from profile pipe their design is similar to that of wood.

The difference between them is the use of adapters. They are used to increase the “number of stories” of a metal structure. A set of blanks for assembling one section includes the following elements: A profile pipe 30x30 or 40x40 mm for racks and lintels (4 pieces of 1.5 m and 4 pieces of 1 meter). Thin-walled round pipe with a diameter 20 mm (4 pieces of 2 meters each for diagonal ties). Profile pipe 25x25 mm or 35x35 mm (8 pieces of 10 cm each for making adapters and bearings). To make a railing, you can take the same pipe - 1 piece 2 meters long. Steel plates 10x10 cm, 2-3 mm thick (4 pieces) for thrust bearings; 10 bolts with nuts and washers for connecting the diagonal ties to each other and fastening them to the frame posts. The assembly of a single-level section of metal scaffolding consists of several operations: the scaffolding posts are rigidly fixed to the assembly panel (OSB sheet) with clamps ( high precision when working with metal, this is a very important factor); horizontal jumpers are welded to the racks; adapters from pipe scraps are inserted into the upper ends of the racks 5 cm and fixed by welding; having removed the racks with jumpers from the assembly panel, they are turned 90 degrees and in this position again fixed to the shield with clamps; the ends and the middle of thin-walled pipes intended for diagonal braces are flattened with a hammer and holes for bolts are drilled into them; after tightening two diagonal ties in the middle with a bolt, they are placed on the racks and the places for drilling holes are marked; the ties are fixed to the racks with bolts and tighten with nuts; holes are drilled on the posts and railings for bolted connections; plates (thrust bearings) are welded to the pipe sections; the assembled structure is placed vertically and the bearing bearings are inserted into the lower ends of the pipes; flooring from the “magpie” board is laid on the side jumpers. Useful advice: to prevent longitudinal displacement of the flooring to its lower part at the point of contact with the jumpers need to be screwed steel corners 30x30 mm. Diagonal ties must be fastened on one side of the scaffolding, and horizontal ties on the other, so that during assembly they do not interfere with each other. If the installation of scaffolding is carried out with the extension of a section of the third tier (4.5 meters), then holes must be made in its racks for attaching a profile pipe of a persistent bevel, protecting the structure from falling. In the lower and upper parts of the racks of each section, it is necessary to drill holes for bolted connections with other sections (when increasing the length of the scaffolding). Video

All high-altitude work is different increased complexity, and without special devices in this case it is definitely not possible. One of them is scaffolding. Their price is calculated in rubles/m², and even for the cheapest set (frame) it is about 140 - 145. Besides, where to put it then? Renting can also be expensive (from 55) if repairs or construction take a long time, which is what usually happens in practice.

Plus - there are some problems with transporting forests, since personal transport is not suitable for these purposes. In the field of low-rise development (for the private sector) optimal solution- make them yourself.

There are opinions that it is better (and cheaper) to rent metal and wood scaffolding than to assemble it yourself. The main argument is that purchasing pipes will cost more. And such judgments are supported by economic calculations. Apparently, the authors of such comments live in city apartments and have a rather vague idea of what it means to maintain their home in proper condition (both the facade and the premises, the height of which, as a rule, exceeds the standard). But the owner has to do this regularly.

Moreover, the combination of materials such as metal (skeleton) and boards (flooring at each level) is considered optimal. One of the advantages of wooden scaffolding is (the second is the low final cost) that the structure after completion of construction (repair) is easily disassembled, and the material is used for other economic purposes. But there is also a significant disadvantage - a limitation in carrying capacity.

That is, such a device can only carry out work such as facade decoration (painting, siding), ceiling treatment, plastering and a number of others. When constructing brickwork or when several people are at a height at the same time, wooden scaffolding is unsuitable. But the assembly of pipes and boards is universal in use.

The only difficulty is in making the right choice options for scaffolding and the method of fastening all structural elements. The cost of manufacturing such multi-level scaffolds is justified only if they can be disassembled and stored in a shed (on site or somewhere else) until the next use. But spending money on a non-separable, welded model is irrational, and hardly anyone will do it. It is impossible not to take into account such factors as the complexity of manufacturing, the strength of the structure and its stability.

Brief description of types of scaffolding

Clamps. Plus - the ability to change the geometry of the skeleton along any of the axes. The downside is the difficulty of installing/dismantling the structure. In addition, if it is necessary to increase the load-bearing capacity, you will have to buy fastening elements. In this case, wire alone, especially rope, is not enough.

Wedges. They differ from all similar models in increased reliability and durability. But manufacturing costs are immeasurably higher (primarily for holders). For the private sector this is not the best option.

Pin. Plus – light weight with the ability to withstand significant loads; ease of assembly (albeit relative). Minus - high cost; increased pressure on the soil. To ensure sustainability, it is necessary to adopt a number of additional measures. In the private sector, such forests are usually not used. The main reason is the complexity of manufacturing. This requires precise calculations and a welding machine.

Frame. Plus, the weight of the structure is small, but with proper drawing and assembly, such scaffolding can “carry” a load of up to 200 kg/m². The height limit is 50 m for a private building of great importance does not have. It is this model in the field of individual development that is considered the best.

What you will need

Accurate linear quantities It makes no sense to designate structural elements - they simply cannot exist. The dimensions of scaffolding are selected based on the specifics of the work being carried out, the availability of space for their installation, the number of craftsmen simultaneously at height, and a number of other parameters.

All numerical values are in mm.

According to the material:

Duralumin. It costs less than steel, but such scaffolding is only suitable for low structures used for finishing work. They are not suitable for masonry construction due to their low load-bearing capacity.
Steel. Such scaffolding for the private sector is universal in application. The explanation is quite clear - high strength and reliability of the frame.

By section:

Vertical racks. Profile pipe 30 x 30.
Spacers (diagonal, horizontal). Round pipe 15.
Inserts (supports for fencing and decking). Profile 25 x 25.

To ensure sufficient strength of scaffolding decks - not lower than forty.

Length – from 1600 to 2000.
Width – within 1000.
Height – 1550.

Those home craftsmen who for some reason are not satisfied with the given dimensions can take the following drawings as a basis.

Fasteners

Bolts + nuts + washers + screws - for fastening metal elements.
Self-tapping screws (for metal) – for fixing the boards at the place of installation.

Main stages of production

Preparing parts. First the pipes are cut. Even if a drawing has been drawn up, there is no need to rush with the boards. After assembling the scaffolding skeleton, their dimensions will still have to be clarified. This will eliminate unnecessary work if you need to adjust pre-prepared flooring elements to the location. ends round pipes(about 80) are flattened so that you can then drill holes for fasteners. To facilitate such “pressing”, it is worth making an axial cut (metal cut) to the specified length.

Preparation of “horizontals”. Before using them in the frame assembly, inserts from the profile should be welded to each pipe in the places indicated in the drawing.
Preparation of “verticals”. To ensure greater stability of the racks, a so-called mounting heel is welded on one end of each. Although it can be made removable - plate + profile section.
Drilling holes in structural elements. Special attention– vertical and horizontal (racks, lintels). Mismatches will lead to distortions. Therefore, the part will definitely have to be changed, and this is an irrational use of materials.
Setting up racks. The main thing on at this stage– maintain their compliance with the vertical plane. The slightest distortion will significantly complicate the further assembly of scaffolding and will sharply reduce its load-bearing capacity. And it’s unlikely to make them more comfortable to work with. That is why all horizontal ties must be extremely identical (in length).
Strengthening the structure. For this, diagonal spacers are used. The peculiarity of their fastening is symmetry. If this condition is met, then the entire load on the scaffolding will be distributed more evenly over the entire area.
Making stairs. The practice of using homemade scaffolding shows that portable models are preferable to stationary ones. For efficient work(in relation to the private sector) one removable staircase is quite enough. It is small in size and can be easily removed and installed in another place if necessary. The material is the same - pipe.
Construction of scaffolding. The boards are laid last, after final adjustment to size. They are attached to welded inserts with self-tapping screws.

To ensure maximum stability of scaffolding it is necessary:

prepare “shoes” with which the structure is leveled at the installation site. It’s easy to make them from boards with your own hands; preferably several pieces of different thicknesses. In the future, this will simplify the process of adjusting the position of the scaffolding relative to the ground;
treat the soil in the area where they are planned to be used. It is leveled (if necessary) and compacted. This ensures that during the work there will be no shrinkage of the soil (under load) and distortion of the scaffolding.
Most often, one section is not enough. In this case, more is done - two, three. To connect them into a single assembly, it is necessary to prepare adapters. The same profile (30 x 30) is suitable, which is cut into pieces of 100 and welded to the racks. To fix the sections, you can use U-shaped metal earrings. To make the connection as reliable as possible, you should also take a pipe for them, but with a slightly smaller cross-section (25 x 25) or diameter.

If you carefully look at the manufacturing process, it turns out that there is nothing complicated in assembling scaffolding. The main thing is correct calculation and accuracy.

In construction or repair work Projects carried out at height cannot be done without scaffolding. Construction equipment can be rented for the duration of the job, but this is not cheap, especially for long-term renovation projects. Having calculated the required height and configuration, scaffolding can be constructed independently.

The purpose of scaffolding is the ability to deliver building materials to heights and the safety of construction workers staying there during work. To do this, the structure must be stable, durable, with a mechanism for lifting, lowering and protection. Wood or metal is best suited for scaffolding.

Scaffolding consists of several elements:

support frames are the frame, it bears the main load;
floorings (stages) on which builders and working material are located;
handrails to protect against accidents;
stops - for a stable position;
spacers (diagonal and horizontal) - for the strength of the racks and uniform weight distribution;
stairs for ascent and descent.