How to reinforce garage walls. Reinforcement of walls with mesh: technology and recommendations. Horizontal wall masonry

It can rightly be called the leader in durability among garages - no structure made of foam blocks, profiled sheets or wood can last as long as a concrete “box” will last. In addition, they are erected faster than buildings made of brick or cinder blocks.

And before standard designs monolithic concrete garage , assembled with your own hands, has the advantage of being able to independently determine the size and area of the building.

As for the disadvantages, the main disadvantage of building concrete garages is impossibility of restructuring, disassembly and transfer to another location. If you made a house for a car from concrete, then you made it “seriously and for a long time”, and when you move you won’t take it with you, and to expand the garage you will first have to demolish the old one.

Second drawback reinforced concrete buildings The problem is that to build them you will need to rent heavy equipment and allocate a lot of space on the site for storing building materials and concrete slabs (if you decide not to pour a concrete garage, but to assemble it like a construction set).

When does it make sense to build it?

Construction of a garage from concrete doing it yourself is a labor-intensive and rather complicated task, so you need to understand how much you need it and how often you will use it.

If it is intended for the site where your house is located and where you permanently reside, there is no question, it needs to be built.

If you decide to do it at your summer cottage, where you come only for the summer (and even then not for all of it), then you need to compare the expenditure of effort, time and money with the benefits received.

Perhaps for a summer cottage it would be more rational to build a garage-shed or prefab garage.

As for choosing a place for a monolithic building, it is advisable to place it separately from your home. First of all, this is due to the technology of constructing a concrete garage - making it an extension will be inconvenient. In addition, in appearance it will be significantly different from a house made from a different material, which is not very good from the point of view aesthetics.

Weight reinforced concrete building capable of accommodating a car can reach from 15 to 25 tons, depending on the size, availability of a basement and space for a second car. Considering this fact, it is worth paying great attention to the preparation of the soil and soil, since the load on them will be considerable.

By the way, it is not necessary to do monolithic garage made of concrete yourself - you can always order finished design from one of the manufacturers. Or, as an alternative, build a garage using concrete slabs purchased from a precast concrete factory.

Standard concrete panels can have a length of 4 to 6 meters, a height of 2.3-2.6 meters and a thickness of 80-120 millimeters. Walls are formed from them, a panel with an opening for a gate is placed on one side, a concrete slab is installed to serve as a roof, and that’s it - the garage is ready and you can drive your car into it!

But we are still interested in how we can do concrete garage with your own hands. Let's look at this process in detail.

Construction stages

The first item on the list of things needed to build a garage is development detailed plan , which will take into account the dimensions of the future building, foundation, roof and everything else. Careful planning and taking into account all the nuances in advance will protect you from annoying mistakes during the construction process.

In this case, you need to do them first, and only then proceed to everything else. At the same time, be sure to provide waterproofing, drainage in the cellar and inspection hole- this way you will significantly extend the service life of the building, protect the car from corrosion and prevent food and things stored in it from deteriorating garage basement.

Next, a trench is dug to fill the garage. concrete and installation of formwork and support posts.

The depth of the trench should be no less 30 cm, and preferably up to half a meter.

The bottom of the trench should be thoroughly compacted and the edges leveled.

Then recesses are made to install support posts, which will serve as the basis for the frame, giving reinforced concrete walls strength and durability.

It is advisable to achieve the same depth of the recesses; this can be done using a template plug made of concrete. When installing the supports, ensure they are vertical using a level. Also make sure that the top ends of the posts are at the same height.

Don't forget about waterproofing. In order to rainwater did not wash away the building, it should be done around its perimeter concrete blind areas and storm drainage (more often referred to as “storm drainage”). If previously on your land or on neighboring plots groundwater lie relatively shallow - make it under the foundation using wells.

After installing the supports you need to do "pillow" from a mixture of sand and gravel. With a trench depth of 0.5 meters, its compacted thickness should reach 15-20 cm. Now you can install formwork, the material for which can be boards or plywood. The formwork frame is made of timber. Don't forget to fill in floor garage, preferably using steel rod reinforcement.

Internal width formwork should be equal thickness future walls. What is the thickness walls concrete garage? Their minimum thickness should be 80 mm, optimal 100-150 mm. In the middle, between the sheets of outer and inner formwork, a grid of steel rods is laid, which will serve reinforced frame. Horizontal reinforcement bars are welded to the support posts.

Now it begins main stage construction of a monolithic garage - pouring walls. The space between the formwork is filled with concrete, which should be well compacted on top (especially at the corners) and leveled. As soon as the bottom layer of the walls has dried, remove the formwork from it and install it higher, repeat the operation with pouring concrete in the garage until the walls are fully erected.

How to cover a concrete garage? If you are planning a roof made of concrete, then it is made in the same way as the walls, but below for the formwork you will need supports made of logs or very thick timber. They should be located often enough to prevent collapse future ceiling.

Otherwise, it is necessary to install longitudinal beams in pre-prepared recesses, lay boards and roofing felt on them for waterproofing. Tiles, slate or corrugated sheets are laid on top of this “pie” - the roof is ready.

In order for a monolithic garage to be warm in winter, it also needs thermal insulation. The latter is often made using foam plastic or other similar material. It is attached to the walls using a special solution, and a plaster mesh is glued on top of the foam.

For heating the resulting premises can be used radiators, connected to a centralized network or to an electric boiler. An alternative to batteries can be water or electric convectors.

The final stage of construction is external and. To do this, you can use plaster, both regular and colored versions. If you love wood, then the inside of a monolithic garage can be lined with clapboard. How to paint concrete walls in the garage? Better to use acrylic facade paints . And from the outside, if you are not short on funds, the building can be decorated with decorative stone.

Properly built monolithic concrete garage will become a reliable shelter for your car for many decades. It is possible that even your children and grandchildren will park their cars in it.

Useful video

Watch a video on how to pour concrete in a garage:

The construction of walls is one of the stages in the construction of buildings intended for housing and economic purposes. When building a garage, several material selection criteria should be taken into account. The walls in the garage should protect the room from intruders and create comfortable conditions for car storage. Equally important is attached to aesthetic side. Issues of strength can be neglected only if construction is carried out in an area closed from outsiders or in a protected area. In garage cooperatives, the construction of walls may be made from light blocks or lumber using mats made of mineral wool. Let's consider what solutions exist for making walls in the garage that best meet the goals and construction conditions.

Construction of concrete walls

The use of concrete allows you to create a structure that is characterized by increased strength. Concrete walls cannot be crushed with almost any household tools.

There are the following construction options from this material:

The use of factory-made wall slabs. The products are placed vertically, fixed to the foundation and welded together. Along the upper edge of the slabs, a trim is made from a corner or channel. The gaps remaining after welding are sealed with cement mortar. The disadvantage of this method is the need to rent a truck and a crane, which significantly increases the construction cost.
Manufacturing by casting method. Monolithic wall can be created from concrete on our own without the use of mechanization. First, the formwork is made into which the reinforcement is laid. As concrete is poured, it rises higher. In order to achieve the required strength, the thickness of the concrete must be at least 100 mm.

The disadvantage of reinforced concrete is its high thermal conductivity. That is why, to prevent sudden temperature changes, the constructed garage is insulated. The most affordable and simple option is its thermal insulation with foam boards.

Apply on top of the foam warm plaster layer up to 5 cm. Such a wall pie provides high-quality insulation garage. However, the room becomes completely sealed. You should consider the issue of its high-quality ventilation to avoid dampness.

Construction of a brick garage

Brick is a time-tested material that is distinguished by the necessary strength and durability. Building walls from it is not particularly difficult even for beginners in the construction field. The walls of the garage will have less thermal conductivity if they are made of red clay bricks. For their construction, standard one-brick masonry is used. It is not advisable to make a masonry of 1.5 or 2 bricks, since with increasing costs the strength and thermal insulation of the structure will practically not change.

When building brick walls in a garage, you should adhere to the following rules:

Before starting work, it is necessary to level the foundation. For this, cement mortar is used.
To increase the strength of the building and ease of use, provision should be made for the construction of corner and intermediate pillars. Their thickness should be 2 times greater than that of the wall.
To avoid deformation of the garage under the influence of the weight of the floor slab, it is necessary to reinforce the corners. For this purpose, reinforcement is used, which is laid between the rows of masonry, or external welding of the corners with strips of metal.
Before making walls, the brick should be moistened with water. This will significantly improve their adhesion. In winter, such an event is not carried out, since it takes a lot of time for the brick to dry out and the mortar to harden.
Each corner should be laid out with the brick offset by half its length. Cracked and broken bricks should be avoided in such areas.
Before laying the first row, waterproofing should be installed. For this, roofing felt or thick cellophane is used, laid in several layers.
You can achieve perfectly even masonry by making a box from boards. This structure is installed along the perimeter of the foundation. Its extension is carried out as the laying progresses.

The method of arranging seams is selected depending on the option finishing walls If you plan to build up the wall using plaster, then gaps are left between the bricks. In the case when the building will be insulated with foam plastic, the cement mortar is leveled along the plane of the masonry.

If there are no plans to finish or insulate the walls, the seam is made in the form of a half-roller with a special joint. In this case, the excess mortar is immediately collected, and the bricks themselves are wiped with a damp cloth.

Construction of walls from foam blocks

When choosing a material for garage walls, it makes sense to opt for foam blocks. The stones are quite large in size and light in weight. This allows construction to be carried out quickly, without significant physical effort. The smooth edges of the blocks make it possible instead cement mortar use glue that is applied thin layer 2-3 mm thick. The foam block has a porous structure. This property contributes to the fact that walls made of foam blocks have low thermal conductivity. When deciding what wall thickness is most suitable for a particular area, you should focus on the format of stones that are commercially available. For construction, it is advisable to use blocks measuring 200×300×600 mm. Depending on decision taken, from them you can lay out walls with a thickness of 20 cm, 30 cm and 60 cm.

When building a garage made of foam concrete, you must adhere to the following rules:

The material is porous and absorbs moisture well. The surface of the blocks must be covered with a layer facade plaster. Waterproof paint is applied on top of it, serving as additional waterproofing.
To prevent the destruction of the garage from soil movements or pressure from the floor slab, it is necessary to reinforce the corners of the masonry. Steel structures need to be laid after each row of stones.
Door and window openings must be reinforced around the perimeter steel corners or channels.
Since aerated concrete is weak and fragile, its outer surface must be reliably protected. Best choice is covering the walls with steel siding or sandwich panels.

When using foam concrete to build a garage, you should remember that walls made of this material have low load-bearing capacity. Therefore, only hollow ones can be used for covering concrete slabs or wooden beam. The piping is preliminarily made of concrete and reinforcement.

Reinforced monolithic belt- is a reinforced concrete strip poured into formwork mounted directly on the wall, which serves to bind walls made of foam blocks, impart rigidity to the structure and create an even (reliable) horizontal plane bases for attaching the Mauerlat to the wall.

Spring has come. After 5 months of no serious physical activity, the body requested an urgent trip to its summer cottage plot to continue the construction of a garage with your own hands. First of all, it was decided to begin the construction of a reinforced monolithic stiffening belt, which would complete the stage of erecting walls and imparting rigidity to the entire structure. In my case, the monolithic belt also served as reinforced concrete lintels over the window and door opening. Additionally, the monolithic belt performs the function of attaching the Mauerlat to the wall, for which a wire rod with a diameter of 6 mm was released from it, which, after installing the Mauerlat on the roofing felt, was twisted using a crowbar. The photo below shows what my reinforced monolithic belt looks like after removing the formwork.

Installation of reinforced belt formwork.

To fill the monolithic belt, formwork was placed from boards 15 cm high, the upper level of which was set strictly horizontally using a water level. The installation of the formwork was carried out using tying wire and spacers made of wooden blocks 15 cm long, installed inside the formwork (after laying the reinforcement cage) and removed during the pouring process. A reinforcement frame was installed inside the formwork, which in cross-section represented the vertices of a triangle, i.e. two reinforcements in the lower part of the stiffening belt on the spacers and one in the upper. After pouring, the concrete is covered with a film to prevent rapid evaporation of moisture and the concrete to gain the required strength. The photo below shows the assembled monolithic reinforced belt formwork with lintels above the window and door. The section of the monolithic belt will be 15x15 cm.

Reinforcing frame of a monolithic belt.

In my case, the reinforcement frame of a monolithic belt was laid in two stages: first, the bottom two reinforcement bars of 10 diameter were laid on spacers (with a gap of 1-1.5 cm) and the formwork was installed, and then during the pouring process, one reinforcement bar was laid in the middle in the upper part. The reinforcement was fastened together using binding wire. Additionally, during the process of pouring the monolithic belt, embedded parts were inserted to secure the Mauerlat. The drawing below shows the principle of laying the bottom row of the reinforcement cage.

Embedded parts for fastening the Mauerlat to the wall.

At first, the embedded parts for attaching the Mauerlat to the wall were supposed to be made using a threaded rod or anchor rod, which could be monolithic into blocks and a monolithic belt with the release of the threaded part for attaching the Mauerlat. But in this way, difficulties could arise with the matching of the threaded rods and the holes in the Mauerlat, which I did not want at all. Secondly, I wanted to avoid drilling the Mauerlat itself. I had 6.5 wire rod available and I had the idea to use it for fastening. By bending 1.5 meters of wire rod in the form of an inverted letter U and running it under the bottom row of the reinforcement cage for reliability, as can be seen in the photo below, we obtained a reliable and convenient fastening of the Mauerlat to the wall.

Pouring a monolithic belt.

Once the formwork and reinforcement cage are installed, there are no difficulties with pouring the monolithic belt. As standard, we mix concrete in proportions 1-3-4 (cement - sand - crushed stone), lift it to the top of the formwork and fill it using a piece of reinforcement by bayoneting to release air from the concrete and make the mixture homogeneous. After pouring the belt, it is important to ensure the hardening of the concrete (concrete strength gain), for which it is enough to cover it with a film and, especially hot weather Water several times during the week. While the monolithic belt was gaining strength over the course of several weeks, a wooden window was installed (later replaced with a plastic one) and a metal front door out of the kindness of his heart, presented by a friend in connection with the replacement of it in the apartment.

Insulation of reinforced belt.

The last thing you need to pay attention to is the insulation of the reinforced belt. The monolithic belt on the wall, like any reinforced concrete element, serves as a conductor of heat; so-called “cold bridges” arise. Thus, before carrying out finishing works it is advisable to insulate with any thermal insulation material. I did it simple polystyrene foam 2.5 cm thick on each side, which was fixed to polymin in place of the dismantled formwork.

Having done reinforced belt I'm ready to continue construction and start

During construction, reinforcement is an indispensable material. Reinforcement allows you to strengthen a structure and extend its service life. But why do you need to reinforce walls, and what materials are needed for the work? We'll figure it out.

Very often, during the construction or renovation process, you can encounter many wall defects that are quite difficult to disguise or remove completely. You can level the wall using a ball of plaster. But if there are a lot of rough irregularities or cracks on the wall, then the plaster itself will not be able to hide them. In such cases, you can use mesh reinforcement of the walls.

The reinforced surface is more elastic and better absorbs mechanical loads. Reinforcement of walls with mesh is recommended if the thickness of the plaster is 2 centimeters or more.

What is reinforcement used for?

Reinforcement is used in the following cases:

Uneven walls. In the process of leveling the walls, you may encounter very large irregularities, to hide which you will have to apply a large layer of plaster. But the plaster itself is very heavy and if the layer is quite thick, it can swell and peel off.
Too much flat wall. In such cases, the mesh helps the mortar adhere more tightly to the wall.
Cracks. Using mesh reinforcement, you can significantly reduce the size of large cracks, and if the cracks are smaller, then completely hide them. The mesh also prevents the appearance of cracks and microcracks if used during the construction process.

How to choose the right mesh for wall reinforcement?

There are many nuances that are worth knowing when choosing a grid. Reinforcement mesh can be metal, plastic or fiberglass.

Metal mesh is suitable for reinforcing walls with large irregularities (more than 4 centimeters). Metal works well in an alkaline environment and such meshes can be used for plastering with a solution that includes cement. It is also recommended to use metal mesh if plastering will be done with clay. Only in this case it is better to take a mesh with a cell size of 50x50 millimeters. It is also good to reinforce metal mesh walls that are often subject to mechanical load (garage walls, first floor of a building).

Usage plastic mesh This is only possible if the plaster does not contain cement. Often used with gypsum mortar For finishing plaster walls. This mesh is cheaper than metal or fiberglass, but it is not durable either. When working with such a mesh, experience is required, as it quickly sags and deforms.

If the layer of plaster is thinner, then it is possible to use a fiberglass mesh. This mesh prevents cracks from opening relatively well, but they are small in size.

Mesh installation

In order to attach the mesh to the wall you will need:

dowel-nails d=6mm and screws 4.5mm;
perforator;
wire for knitting mesh;
metal cutting scissors:
beacons.

The surface of the wall must be cleaned and treated with a primer. Cut the mesh into pieces so that the piece reaches the entire height of the wall. We start fastening from the bottom using dowel nails and move to the top.

To fix the mesh, you can bend the edge of the nail or use galvanized mounting tape. The mesh is also often fixed using a knitting wire. To do this, you need to drive the dowels incompletely and tie the wire onto the caps in a Z shape. After fastening the wire, the dowels are finished.

When calculating required quantity dowels, you need to know that about 16-20 pieces will be spent on 1 m².

To prevent the mesh from sagging or deforming, it must be stretched well and pressed tightly to the wall surface. If there are places where the mesh lags behind the wall by 1 centimeter or more, then the plaster may peel off from the surface. The joints must be overlapped. After fixing the grid, beacons are placed.

Next, you can proceed to the first layer of plaster. It must be made with a liquid solution. Apply plaster mortar it is necessary to make sharp movements so that it adheres well to the wall between the cells of the reinforcing mesh.

If the first layer has dried well, then you can apply the second. The finishing ball of plaster is made from a thicker solution. Application must be done from bottom to top.

Below we describe the process of constructing walls from the most suitable material:

bricks,
concrete blocks.

Tools for building walls

To build walls you will need the following tools:

a hammer-pick, which you will use to chop a whole brick into pieces,
jointing, which you will use to process the seams of the masonry,
a mortar shovel, which you will use to grind the mortar,
trowel (trowel) with which you will perform plastering and smoothing,
building level (spirit level).

Disadvantage of brick walls

U brick walls There is one drawback - significant thermal conductivity. In this regard, they need to be insulated. To do this, the walls are plastered on the inside. When building garage walls, it is best to use one-brick or half-brick masonry.

To know how much material to prepare, you need to calculate its consumption per square meter masonry The calculation is made as follows:

When laying one brick, 100 pieces are required. bricks and 75 liters of mortar;
when laying half a brick, 50 pcs are required. bricks and 35 liters of mortar.

If the walls are made of half a brick, then it is necessary to provide for the presence of intermediate and corner pillars. In this case, you will not only significantly save building materials, but also in the niches formed between the pillars you will be able to conveniently place shelves and racks for tools.

Floor waterproofing

Immediately after laying the foundation, it is necessary to waterproof the floor. For this they do waterproofing layer from two or one layer of roofing felt, roofing felt, or from cement mortar laid in a layer 2 cm thick.

In addition, the list preliminary work includes leveling the foundation. For this purpose, by means of a spirit level, slats are secured on both sides of the foundation in a strictly horizontal position. The solution is poured between the installed slats and leveled thoroughly.

Horizontal wall masonry

The masonry of the walls must be strictly horizontal. To do this, orders are installed in the corners of the future building - slats made of wood, equipped with divisions every 7.7 cm and numbers along the rows of brickwork.

The height of a brick lying flat is exactly equal to one division of the order. The orders must be established so that the numbers of each of them correspond to one horizontal line. A thin cord is pulled between them and subsequently the horizontal position of the masonry is checked along it.

Construction of the wall: lay the bricks in advance without mortar along the border of the future garage. At the same time, leave a gap between them equal to the thickness of the seam (10 mm - 12 mm). Then pull the cord at a distance of 1 mm - 2 mm from the edge of the wall. The indentation is made so that during the laying of bricks and mortar the cord does not move and allows the masonry to be maintained straight.

Then use a trowel to scoop up a portion of the mortar, and with the other hand take the brick laid without mortar and put the working mortar in its place. The mortar is smoothed out, the brick is returned to its place and, tapping it with the handle of a trowel, it is pressed in so that a seam of the required thickness is formed. At the same time, so that the top of the brick is located in line with the stretched cord.

Then they take the second brick and with the other hand put mortar in its place, level it with a trowel and push a little mortar onto the surface of the rib of the first brick. Place the second brick in its place and check that its top matches the level of the cord. And so they lay all the following bricks, raising the cord as necessary. If part of the mortar, where the brick is pressed, protrudes beyond the plane of the wall, it must be immediately removed with a trowel and placed back in the bucket.

Construction of walls without a stretched cord

Walls can be erected without the help of a stretched cord. But in this case, it is necessary to lay stacks of bricks every meter and a half on the wall being built. Then they take a portion of mortar, which is enough for 3-5 bricks, and lay it out on part of the wall.

The bricks are placed on the mortar one after another (be sure to tap them with the handle of a trowel). Also remember to push a large part of the mortar onto the surface of the edge of the previous brick.

Seam alignment

When laying, remember about the seams. If you plan to cover one side of the garage wall (front or interior) with plaster, then the masonry can be done without seams, i.e. so that the solution does not reach the plane of the wall by 12 mm. To do this, the solution must be placed in the middle and not brought to the edges by 35 mm - 40 mm. After finishing the masonry, the mortar will, of course, expand, but not to such an extent as to level the seams with the surface of the wall.

If the walls are not planned to be plastered, the joints in the masonry must be filled completely. For this purpose, the solution is placed so that it is squeezed out of the seams. Then it is removed so that the seam is flush with the front surface of the masonry.