Small and remote - mini-greenhouses made of polycarbonate: features and methods of making them yourself. Polycarbonate greenhouse: sizes and types of shapes How to make a mini greenhouse near a polycarbonate greenhouse

50+ photos of greenhouses with an opening top

Below you can view a gallery of greenhouses with an opening lid that you can make with your own hands. We collected photos from all over the Internet, below we indicated the sources from which we were able to determine the authorship.


Mounting methods

How to attach an opening greenhouse lid


How to attach greenhouse arcs or PVC pipes under film

Clamps

We insert it into the ground
(Shockingly simple way!!!)

The method is that we plant PVC pipes on reinforcement driven into the ground. Wooden rods can be used instead of reinforcement (enough for a season)

Click on the photo to enlarge




How to attach film to a greenhouse

The simplest version of a greenhouse made of PVC pipes

Very simple design greenhouse Easy to assemble and just as easy to disassemble. It can be moved, enlarged, reduced.

It's cheap and easy to make .

Step by step photos. Click on them

How to make a greenhouse from willow or cedar branches.

This greenhouse is suitable for those who did not expect sudden frosts.

This mini greenhouse can be done in 45 minutes, according to the author of the photo.

To make the arcs, we used not PVC pipes, but cedar branches, but I think that in our conditions, willow branches will also work. The branches are tied together with nylon thread (it doesn’t matter what) to give it an arched shape. When the arches of branches are stuck into the ground, a block is attached on top of them to give one level, which is also attached to each arch.
To move such a greenhouse to another place, the author advises placing two long bars along the bases of the arcs, then tying each arc to these bars. As a result, we will get something like a stretcher. Taking such a stretcher from both ends, you can quite easily pull our greenhouse out of the ground and move it to another place.
Below you can see step by step photos, to enlarge, just click on them.

Telescopic greenhouse or greenhouse

Here is a very interesting version of a telescopic greenhouse or greenhouse. I moved the arches and nothing gets in the way, below you can see the fastening mechanism, click on it to enlarge.


DIY greenhouse with convertible top

Look at the step-by-step photos of making such a greenhouse. First we make a tray for the soil, then we make a frame on which we will attach the arcs, and which will recline. Then we attach this frame to the pallet on hinges and cover it with film.

Step-by-step photos of production.

Click on the gallery to enlarge

A greenhouse made of straw or hay.

As you can see, the photo shows a greenhouse, the walls of which are made of briquettes (or bales) of straw (hay). A frame with an opening top is simply piled on the straw walls. The film rolls onto the block. Such greenhouses are usually directed to the south. This design helps well when the slope of the soil on your site is directed to the north; in such cases, the sun slightly heats the earth. This kind of greenhouse will help you out in this situation..

(Dew Collector greenhouse system from Roots Up)

The greenhouse condenses up to 80 liters of water per day!!!

Soon, thanks to such greenhouses, Ethiopia will flood the world with food. The greenhouse was created for arid countries to solve the problem of drought.
During the day, steam accumulates in the upper part of the greenhouse. When night falls, special valves are opened to draw in cold air, which cools and condenses the water vapor, after which the liquid enters a special storage tank.
Excess water left after irrigation can be used for drinking.

Portable greenhouse (greenhouse) from a barrel

Easy and simple to make (45 minutes)

This portable greenhouse is suitable for growing seedlings, or plants such as parsley, cilantro, etc.

  • 2 photos - we cut out square holes with a jigsaw in 1 quarter of the circumference of the barrel.
  • 3rd photo - a hole with a drill so that you can insert a jigsaw.
  • 4 photos - holes in the bottom to drain water from the drainage.
  • 5-6 photos - attach handles on the sides for carrying.
  • 7-12 photos we attach the film.
  • 14 photos - drainage.

The greenhouse can be painted in green so that it blends in with the landscape of the dacha

Portable greenhouse made of film

As you can see from the photo, the greenhouse has a lightweight version. It does not have a massive base; it is attached to the ground with reinforcement fixed to the base. It is carried as if on a stretcher using two long boards nailed to the base. It will be useful to the gardener when there is a need to cover some weak plants during a cold snap.

How to automatically open windows in a greenhouse?

A very interesting and simple design for automatically opening the window depending on weather conditions. The principle is as follows. Between the large (3L) and small (0.5L) jars there passes a tube in the form of a communicating vessel. A large jar is suspended from the base of the greenhouse, and a small one from the window. Moreover, the small one should be balanced with the window in such a way that with a minimum amount of water in it, the window should be closed. In a hermetically sealed large jar when the temperature in the greenhouse rises. Due to atmospheric pressure, water moves into a small jar, opening the window


A simple greenhouse option opening from the side .

As you can see, the design of a greenhouse made of film is very simple. Such a greenhouse can be easily moved and placed in a new location.

Dome greenhouse made from pipe scraps

it's ugly, but it works

The authors of the blog booth555.com moved to new home, and they had to install their own sewer system. As a result, they were left with a lot of pipe scraps, which were used by an enterprising young family to create this greenhouse. The advantages of these pipes are that they are easy to bend and at the same time stable and easy to nail down.

Look at step-by-step photos of creating a greenhouse.

As I understand from the translation of the article from English, the pipes are attached to wooden crossbars using tape. I didn’t really understand about the film, the film scraps were somehow fastened together, most likely a cord was threaded through the holes, and there is also a hint in the 6th photo.

The film at the bottom is pressed to the ground with bricks, this makes it possible to lift the film up on hot days.

I could not translate the purpose of the star (in the 4th photo), but I assumed that it was attached to the dome to give stability to the structure.

Write your options for assigning a star in the comments.

Recumbent greenhouse made of double-glazed windows or frames

The author of the blog doorgarden.com made such a recumbent greenhouse on his site from glass door(a double-glazed window), which was accidentally hit by a stone from under a lawn mower.
According to the author, such a greenhouse allows him to collect greens for salads in January, well, America, I can’t say exactly what state it is.

Look at the drawing of this greenhouse. It's very simple. As we can see from the photo, the double-glazed window is not attached to any hinges; it simply lies, resting against the side board to prevent it from slipping.
The double-glazed window can be replaced with any large glass or window frame.

in summer hot weather, when there is no need for such a greenhouse, it can be thrown over the strawberries to protect the berries from birds.

Photo source: doorgarden.com

Attention!!! Important point about greenhouses made from window frames

Whatever frames you have at your disposal, the transparent roof must be made folding (lifting upward), and not swinging or folding, as on the right in Fig. Through any vertical crack the entire warm air will instantly evaporate and the plants will be hit with cold, and the horizontal one can be adjusted with supports according to the weather and local conditions.

What should be the slope of the greenhouse lid???

Note: optimal inclination slope of the roof of a lean-to greenhouse from the vertical (90 degrees) – φ, where φ – geographic latitude places; and (90 degrees)–φ is the angular altitude of the Sun at noon of the spring/autumn equinox. See below about a greenhouse with a heat accumulator.

Source of the last two paragraphs and photos: vopros-remont.ru

Cold greenhouse. (diagram-drawing)

With your own hands

Auto photo of this cold greenhouse Vince Babak, while growing vegetables for the school cafeteria, wondered if it was possible to grow fresh vegetables in early winter. After studying the literature on this topic, he created this winter cold greenhouse.

The greenhouse consists of wooden frame And glass lid. The glass of the lid should always be tilted to catch as many rays of the weak winter sun as possible.

The author claims that even in winter, in sunny weather, this greenhouse can heat up to very high temperatures, so the lid must be able to open upward. In order to regulate the temperature, a thermometer must be placed in the greenhouse (see photo 5), and there must also be a mechanism for fixing the open lid on different angles(see photo 4).

Vegetables that can be grown in early winter in a cold greenhouse

BUT still, the main secret of such a greenhouse is not in its design, but in the plants grown in it . These should be plants that can easily tolerate cold. According to the author's research, five crops: spinach, green onions, mâché, claytonia, and carrots can be grown successfully in the northern states of the United States. And also arugula, Escarole, Mizuna, parsley, sorrel, European lettuce, mustard, spinach and turnips.

My advice: Make a cardboard sheet covered on one side with foil. At night, you can cover the greenhouse with this foil, which will reflect the heat coming from the ground back into the greenhouse.

Greenhouse made of window frame and hay

Greenhouse (greenhouse) In a plastic bottle

or "How to grow seedlings if the apartment is cold"

It often happens in our domestic apartments that for growing seedlings the room is not warm enough. A way out of this situation could be a greenhouse like this in a plastic bottle.

When hit sunlight in such a greenhouse, the air in the greenhouse begins to heat up and remains warm for a very long time, even after sunset .

An important advantage will be high humidity inside the bottles and, which will be created due to the heating of pre-moistened soil. This humidity significantly speeds up the process of seedling ripening.

The manufacturing process is simple : cut the bottle, wash it, place the soil with the seeds inside and seal it tightly with tape.

How to make a quick greenhouse with your own hands

Greenhouse made of wooden gratings


The advantages of such a greenhouse:

  • - quickly erected
  • - stable
  • - easy to manufacture

Cons:

Not suitable for tall plants, can be used for growing early greens and seedlings.

Russian in-depth greenhouse on biofuels

About Russian pits

The simplest greenhouse is a lean-to greenhouse, sunk into the ground, with biological heating. For its construction, choose a dry, well-lit and sheltered place from the winds. It is desirable that it be a low slope facing south. To protect the greenhouse from the wind, green spaces, fences or special reflective screens, which are installed on the north side, can be used. Particularly convenient are the rotating flat screens, painted white, which allow you to get the most out of your solar energy. Illumination with reflected light increases the temperature in the beds by 2-3°, which is equivalent to moving your site, for example, from the Moscow region to the black earth regions of the country: Lipetsk or Voronezh.

Note: you can use any flat panels, covered with aluminum foil for baking.

Construction begins with the installation of strapping around the perimeter of the greenhouse from four sanded logs with a diameter of 10-14 cm. North side the harness should be slightly higher than the southern one. WITH south side a groove (quarter) is selected in the harness to support the frames.

At one time, the Russian greenhouse was a revelation for European farmers. It was from the “Russian pits” that the nobility of that time received green onions, lettuce, dill, parsley, radishes, and strawberries for the table in winter.

The pit is dug to a depth of 70 cm. In diameter it has the shape of a trapezoid. In dense soils, the walls need not be fastened, but in loose and slumping soils, fastening with horizontal boards is used. To prevent the greenhouse from being washed away by rain, a drainage ditch is installed around it, which can be closed wooden shields, facilitating approaches.

The most convenient frames for a greenhouse are 160x105 cm in size. They are made from 6x6cm bars, connected for strength with wooden pins, and then properly painted with weather-resistant varnish PF-166 (“6 = c”). Glass is strengthened with putty or glazing bead. To drain rainwater, grooves are cut into the lower sashes.

Biofuel in greenhouses is horse or cow manure.. Horse fiber is considered the best; it gives more heat. It is harvested in the fall. Manure is collected in piles and carefully insulated on all sides with straw, sawdust, peat and covered so that the manure does not freeze. In the spring, before filling the greenhouse, it is transferred to another, looser pile and heated. To do this, make several holes in it and pour a bucket into each hot water, after which the stack is covered with burlap or matting. After two to four days, when the manure warms up to a temperature of 50-60°, the greenhouse is filled with it. The colder one is placed on the bottom, and the hotter one is placed on top and on the sides. After precipitation, a new portion is added in two to three days. The manure should lie loosely, and only at the walls it should be slightly compacted so that voids do not form.

Greenhouses - pits were usually made of 3-4, which ensured year-round use: while 1 pit was warming up after refilling, the rest were producing products. An indispensable condition for the successful operation of a Russian greenhouse is the lining of the entire complex of pits clay castle with a drainage ditch, otherwise the biofuel will sour.

To enlarge the photo click on it

After filling, the greenhouse is covered with frames and mats made of matting, straw or burlap. Soil is poured on top of the heated manure - garden or turf soil, compost or fertilized peat. On average, one frame requires 0.2 cubic meters. m of land. It is not recommended to exceed this amount, since under the weight of the earth the manure becomes compacted, the flow of air to it becomes difficult, and it stops burning. For the same reason, you should not over-moisten the soil.

A greenhouse of even such a simple design will make it possible to grow vegetables much ahead of schedule.

Greenhouse layout diagram

where is the best place to put a greenhouse on the site?

Installation of a greenhouse on garden plot allows you to solve the main problem for every gardener: discrepancy between the climatic requirements of the plants grown and the actual weather. Heat in the greenhouse volume appears under the influence of sunlight penetrating through the translucent walls and heating the internal volume.

Cultivation facilities of this type there are useful in solving problems such as:

Accordingly, a lightweight greenhouse can make growing easier absolutely all types of plants that are traditional for the vegetable gardens of our strip and, due to their dimensions, fit into such a structure. In this case, there will be no need to engage in serious construction. The very idea of ​​a greenhouse implies the use of lightweight and quickly assembled structures.

Polycarbonate: pros and cons

Being one of the types of plastic, polycarbonate can be produced in a wide variety of forms. The most widespread monolithic And cell phones. However, for gardening monolithic polycarbonate It is of little use because it does not retain heat well.

Cell phone this option has the following dignity, How:

  • excellent thermal insulation due to air-filled structure
  • light weight
  • good throughput for light
  • impact resistance


At the same time, there are also flaws:

  • rapid failure if installed incorrectly
  • In warm weather you need good ventilation
  • sheets of material change geometry when heated

If do not violate technology working with cellular polycarbonate, then all problematic issues cease to matter.

First of all, you need to decide location buildings. Highest value When making a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands, you will have the following points:


  • Cellular polycarbonate(4-6 mm thick)
  • Silicone sealant
  • Layout tape for waterproofing seams
  • Metal mounting profiles.
  • Metal scissors
  • Screwdriver
  • Self-tapping screws
  • Sections of metal pipe with a diameter of 40-50 mm and a length of about 1000-1300 mm
  • Garden auger

In addition, you will need work clothes And protective equipment.

Stage 3. Construction of the foundation.

The total mass of the greenhouse can reach several tens of kilograms. Therefore, it is impossible to do without a reliable foundation. It will also be needed for combating windage.


The simplest and effective foundation for a greenhouse represents four metal pipes, dug into the corners of the structure. Using a drill can make the job easier. The foundation “piles” need to be buried 80-90 cm, leaving 20 cm above the ground surface for fastening structures.

IMPORTANT. Before installing foundation pipes in wells, it is recommended to coat them waterproofing(bitumen mastic or at least paint).

Stage 4. Assembling a frame for one wall.

It will be easier to avoid mistakes if the greenhouse walls build sequentially. To begin with, the metal mounting profile is cut and cut. From what is obtained using self-tapping screws a frame is formed for one wall. Next, it is screwed with self-tapping screws to the finished foundation.

Stage 5. Polycarbonate cutting and wall covering.

A sheet of cellular polycarbonate is cut out according to the dimensions outlined in the drawing and mounted on the wall of the greenhouse. Fastening can be done in two ways:
A strip of metal. In this case, the junction of two sheets is covered from above with a strip of aluminum tape. The tape is secured to the frame with self-tapping screws, screwed into its middle and passing between the polycarbonate sheets.
H-shaped profile. This profile is specially created for such operations, therefore it significantly speeds up the work. The profile is fixed in the right place on the greenhouse frame, and then sheets of cellular polycarbonate are simply inserted into it.

IMPORTANT. Sheets of cellular polycarbonate must be cut and installed in such a way that the internal cavities are located either vertically or at an angle to the horizontal. This will ensure rapid removal of trapped water and extend service life.

In any case, the joints of the sheets must be processed after installation. silicone sealant . Bottom part The finished wall is sheathed either with a strip of metal or with a durable board treated with an antiseptic.

A similar sequence of actions is used to form the remaining planes that make up the greenhouse structure. If the roof is planned not to be flat, but with slopes, then the frame will have to be complicated by adding to it rafter system.

Stage 6. Door installation.

The location of the door to the greenhouse is chosen in advance. At the width of the door, two mounting profiles are installed vertically, acting as door frame. It is to them that the hinges will be screwed.

The door itself can be made from cellular polycarbonate scraps, screwed with self-tapping screws to any base made of plastic or wooden slats.

To build a greenhouse from cellular polycarbonate with your own hands is quite affordable for home handyman event. It is enough to understand the characteristics of the material and have basic construction skills to achieve what you want.

Useful video

We build a frame for a greenhouse:

If you find an error, please highlight a piece of text and click Ctrl+Enter.

  • The protective layer on which the inscriptions are applied must be located with outside greenhouse
  • To get the maximum robust construction be sure (!) to pay attention to the location of the polycarbonate “honeycombs” - they should only go vertically, in inclined structures - parallel to the slope.
  • When creating arches, keep in mind that polycarbonate sheets bend only in one direction - lengthwise, that is, along the line of the stiffeners.
  • The joints of the sheets should be at the center of the frame post; the sheets are connected only in this way.
  • This type of plastic is cut construction knife, jigsaw, grinder. You can also use a hacksaw or a circular saw.
  • To firmly connect the sheets to each other, special plastic profiles. Manufacturers do not recommend overlapping polycarbonate. In practice, when making a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands, it is not always possible to cut and fit the sheets perfectly. Some craftsmen generally manage to do without connecting profiles, placing polycarbonate overlapping. The most important thing is that the joint must be in the center of the rack, and not sag in the air. Moreover, even with ideal installation, snow pressure can force the sheet out of the profile. In the case of overlap, this does not happen.
  • It is not advisable to use a powerful drill for screwing in self-tapping screws - it will overtighten the fasteners and often slip off during operation. It is better to work with a regular screwdriver. Polycarbonate is drilled at low speeds with little effort. Next, turn off the tool, insert the screws and continue working.
  • The distance between the screws to be screwed in is 25-70 cm. It all depends on the type of frame and the expected snow and wind load.
  • When assembling polycarbonate structures, rivets are sometimes used instead of self-tapping screws. However, dismantling the greenhouse or replacing a damaged sheet in this case will be more difficult.
  • When the temperature changes, plastic can change size. When making butt joints, a small space of a couple of millimeters in size is necessarily left between the sheets - a technological gap. Otherwise, cracks will form at the junction. For the same reason, the size of the holes for fasteners is made a little larger. To prevent the plastic from cracking, do not tighten them all the way.
  • To compensate for expansion and protect against cold bridges, it is recommended to use special thermal washers for polycarbonate (screws are purchased separately). Allowed to use roofing screws EPDM, equipped with a gasket or standard for metal with a rubber thermal washer, in which the threads have a small pitch.

At the dacha and country life there is always one significant advantage - the ability to grow your own food, as well as ornamental plants and flowers. Moreover garden work They have long ceased to be a labor obligation, but have turned into a kind of exciting pastime with useful results. The only problem is that our climate is far from tropical, so you can’t grow most plants just like that; if you throw the seeds into open ground, they won’t ripen, and you have to forget about early harvests. Unless you create a warm place for plants on your site, for example, install polycarbonate greenhouses. This will make it possible not only to obtain greens and other early-ripening crops, radishes, turnips and others in early spring, but also to grow seedlings of heat-loving crops for subsequent planting in open ground.

How does a greenhouse differ from a greenhouse?

It is not clear for what reason, but many people confuse a greenhouse with a greenhouse. Some believe that this is one and the same thing, while others believe that a greenhouse is something small, and a greenhouse is something large, taller than human growth. In fact, everything is a little different.

Greenhouse is a structure that is heated using natural heating sources. For example, a building can only be heated by the sun or biofuel, overheating or burning manure. This follows from the concept of the word “greenhouse” itself, i.e. “greenhouse effect”, “steam”. Whatever the size of the structure, if it does not have a heating system (electric, gas or other), then it would be correct to consider it a greenhouse.

Unlike a greenhouse, greenhouse- a structure heated with artificial system heating.

So, a greenhouse can be of any size. But... Taking into account the fact that the heat generated by rotting manure is not enough to heat too large a space, greenhouses are most often made low, much lower than human height. So you can only work in them through special hatches, hinged covers, or simply by completely removing the upper extension. Such greenhouses are used to obtain early greenery, grow seedlings of heat-loving crops, early varieties different cultures and shelter from spring frosts. Mini greenhouses made of polycarbonate are well suited for these purposes. Although they are somewhat more expensive than film ones, they justify their cost with durability, strength, ability to better retain heat, convenience and ease of maintenance.

Types of greenhouses

According to the type of location, greenhouses are divided into in-depth And above ground.

In-depth greenhouses retain heat better and require less fuel to heat them. They represent a trench with top harness from logs. Sometimes bricks or concrete blocks, metal parts, but here you need to understand that the thermal conductivity of these materials is too high, such a greenhouse will not retain heat well, and elements made of stone and metal will act as cold bridges. An in-depth greenhouse can be single- or double-sloped, and even have an arched lid. Greenhouse with pitched roof in the form of a flat frame is called " Russian greenhouse».

Gable greenhouses are called " Belgian", they are used for growing tall crops.

Aboveground greenhouses, they are also called portable, Parisian and French, they are good because they can be moved from place to place at any time. The manure in them is in the lower part, in a box, with soil on top. When manure rots, the soil crumbles; over time, the contents must be replaced. But this is more convenient to do than in a Russian greenhouse, since the bottom is always visible, but in a deep structure the soil gradually sags, the plants end up lower and lower.

But above-ground greenhouses also have a significant drawback - they are much colder and are not able to retain heat in early spring, given our climate. But using them in late spring to cover plants or grow early crops in order to protect them from frost is quite justified.

Most often, polycarbonate greenhouses from the manufacturer are an above-ground structure. But, nevertheless, you can choose a model that can be used as a cover for an in-depth greenhouse. If none of ready-made models If you are not satisfied, you can try to make a greenhouse yourself.

DIY polycarbonate greenhouse

Polycarbonate - modern material, there is no difficulty in working with it. Main task- make a high-quality frame to which you can attach polycarbonate sheets. This material is a type of plastic; it can be monolithic, i.e. have one layer of a certain thickness, or can be cellular, i.e. two sheets with honeycomb cells between them, in which air is compressed. Cellular polycarbonate is able to retain heat as well as a double-glazed frame. Only, unlike glass, it is not fragile, does not break and can withstand hail impacts, thick snow and other mechanical impacts.

A homemade polycarbonate greenhouse can be in no way inferior to a factory one if the following simple rules were followed during its manufacture:

  • Try to minimize the number of cracks. Naturally, the greenhouse must have a hinged lid, so you should make sure that it does not form gaps with the overall design.
  • If you plan to make an arch from polycarbonate, then you can bend the sheet only across the direction of the honeycomb.
  • The frame must be resistant to conditions high humidity and pathogenic flora.
  • To prevent water from getting inside the cellular polycarbonate sheets, the cut must be reliably insulated during installation. Best option- insert the sheet into the U-shaped profile, but the option of installing the sheets overlapping and then gluing the cut with tape is also possible.
  • Don't skimp on the frame. Do not take wet wood - when it dries, the beams will move, and with them the polycarbonate sheet can bend in an arc. A galvanized profile that is too light should not be used for a greenhouse large sizes, under the pressure of the sheets the profile can bend. For fastening it is better to take the most reliable option: for wood - nails, for profiles - screws.
  • Install the greenhouse in late autumn or early spring. This is due not only to the fact that at this time there are a minimum of plants on the site that can interfere, but also to the fact that optimal temperature for working with polycarbonate it is +10 - +12 °C. At a higher temperature, this problem may arise - as it gets colder, the sheet will decrease in size and cracks will appear. At negative temperatures It’s also not worth working with polycarbonate; with warming, the sheet will expand, cracks will appear at the fastening points, and additional sealing will be required.

The price of a finished polycarbonate greenhouse depends on its size and the material used for the frame. Most often, by making a greenhouse yourself, you can save up to 50% of the cost declared by the manufacturer. Agree, if you have the time and desire, why not make a greenhouse yourself? Therefore, if you have decided, then we will tell you the technology for making a warm house for plants.

Drawing of a polycarbonate greenhouse

Before starting any work, even before purchasing materials, you should first of all draw a drawing of the future greenhouse. On the Internet you can find ready-made drawings with and without dimensions. Those. The sizes are there, you just have to pay for them.

First, we determine how long we want the structure, then we decide on the width. The most optimal width for a recessed greenhouse is 145 - 150 cm. If it is smaller, the manure will not be enough to heat the space; if it is larger, it will be inconvenient to process. But it’s still up to you to decide. If you are not afraid of frost, you can make the width 80 cm and 1 m.

In the photos depicting polycarbonate greenhouses you can see butterfly greenhouse with flaps,

greenhouse with a pitched folding roof,

arched greenhouse with opening doors,

greenhouse convertible,

greenhouse swallow,

dragonfly greenhouse,

greenhouse snail.

Which one you prefer is up to you to decide, or maybe your wild imagination will suggest an even better solution?

Based on the type of greenhouse roof, its height will also vary. Select it depending on ease of use and the height of the plants you will grow.

Draw the greenhouse of your dreams, put all the dimensions on the drawing and calculate the amount of materials needed.

Choosing a location for a greenhouse

Before making a polycarbonate greenhouse, you should choose a good place for it on the site. Its size will depend on this.

The greenhouse should be positioned so that it is illuminated by the sun most of the time. It is better if this is the sunniest place on the site.

You should not locate the building in a low-lying area, as soil and soil may accumulate there. rainwater, as well as water from melting snow. This will lead to rotting and soaking of the plants.

According to the cardinal directions, the greenhouse should be oriented as follows: with the long part from north to south.

If on site high level groundwater, you can make a buried greenhouse only by making a high embankment. If this is not possible or such a structure does not fit into the landscape, above-ground greenhouses will have to be used.

Preparing a site for a greenhouse

As an example of making a greenhouse, we will consider a recessed greenhouse with a lid in the form of an arch, which is removable, so we will dwell in more detail on preparatory work on the site.

First of all, we remove the turf and dig a trapezoidal pit. The depth of the pit can be a maximum of 80 cm, a minimum of 30 cm. It depends on the purpose of using the greenhouse and the severity climatic conditions. Accordingly, the harsher the spring and the earlier we plan to plant the plants, the deeper the pit should be.

The walls of the pit can be reinforced with wooden boards.

We add manure mixed with rotted leaves, peat and other additives to the bottom. Horse manure is best, but cow manure can also be used. The manure layer should be so large that only 20 cm of soil is poured on top. For example, for a greenhouse with a pit depth of 80 cm, 50 - 60 cm of manure should be poured.

Cover the top of the manure with a layer of soil of 20 - 25 cm.

Next, you need to make a crown on which to install upper part greenhouse It can be made from logs with a diameter of 18 - 20 cm, knocking them down so as to form a contour with the width and length of the greenhouse.

Frame making

The type of frame for a greenhouse depends on the design of the greenhouse and the complexity of the drawing. The easiest option is to make an arched cover. Let's look at how to do this.

We take beams with a thickness of at least 50 mm. If there are no beams of sufficient length, then we knock several together so that in the end we get a batten with a length equal to the planned length of the greenhouse. You will need two such slats. Next, you need to attach polycarbonate to them. It is the attachment to such a frame that we will consider in the next section, and now a couple more options for the frame.

The frame for a greenhouse can be made of metal-plastic water pipes, bending them in such a way that they can then be covered with polycarbonate in the form of an arch. But in such a design it will be difficult to make high-quality opening doors.

But a frame made of galvanized profile or wood of any planned shape is the best option.

Installation of polycarbonate sheets on the frame

A standard polycarbonate sheet measures 210 cm in width and 6 m in length. We only need one sheet. We will cut it into 4 parts. The first one will be 90 cm, the other three will be 170 cm each.

Polycarbonate is cut with a regular construction knife.

Then we attach the sheets to the frame beams. We lay them out like this: the wide side (210 cm) should go along the bar. We fasten the sheets with screws, overlapping. Then cut top sheet glue with tape.

Important! We place the polycarbonate sheet so that the sun protection film is on the outside of the greenhouse.

Next, you need to bend the resulting structure into an arch. We take a beam 50 mm thick, with a length equal to the width of the greenhouse, i.e. 145 - 150 cm or whatever you planned. We nail the beam to one of the frame beams. We bend the canvas into an arc and fasten it to the second beam. We repeat the procedure on the other side.

It remains to close the space from the end sides. To do this, we use a sheet 90 cm wide. We attach it to the resulting lid, mark the required size with a pencil or marker, cut out and close the hole.

As a result, we get a lid in the form of an arch made of polycarbonate for the greenhouse. We install it on top of the crown.

Of course, there are more complex designs polycarbonate greenhouses. They will require more time, patience and materials. Greenhouses with opening doors and a gable roof can also be made with your own hands. Just remember to follow the general rules.

With the onset of planting season every gardener strives as best as possible prepare to the start of disembarkation vegetable crops.

At the same time, sincere adherents of dacha farming try to grow seedlings on their own plot. For this absolutely it is not necessary to build large sizes, but it is quite possible to get by with the construction of a mini-greenhouse.

    Design Features

    Mini-greenhouses made of polycarbonate – compact and lightweight structures, in which vegetable crops can be grown. Cellular polycarbonate is an excellent option for covering greenhouses.

    He is a two-layer material with rows of cells located inside. Polycarbonate is much stronger, much lighter and bends well, which allows you to give it an arch shape.

    A mini-greenhouse equipped with this material has the same degree of thermal insulation, as well as the design of double-glazed frames.

    Such a structure can be successfully used on personal plots private houses, it is also an indispensable option for gardeners.

    Pros and cons

    Like any design, a mini-greenhouse made of polycarbonate has positive and negative aspects . The advantages include the following indicators:

    • easy and simple installation of the structure;
    • high degree of thermal insulation;
    • excellent level of light transparency(at least 92%);
    • protection of plants from ultraviolet rays due to the presence of a special coating;
    • material strength (200 times greater than glass) and ability to withstand impact loads;
    • polycarbonate is resistant to aggressive environments and provides plants good protection from acid precipitation;
    • Thanks to the light weight of the cladding (16 times lighter than glass), the costs of load-bearing parts of the structure are reduced.

    Design flaws made of polycarbonate:

    • The ends of the covering should not be left open, as moisture and insects can penetrate into the cells, resulting in mold and mildew will form and deterioration in the performance properties of the material and the entire mini-greenhouse;
    • It is necessary to clean the sheets from accumulations of dust and dirt very carefully, using soft materials and neutral detergents;
    • products containing salt, alkaline, ether and chloride components are prohibited;
    • it is forbidden Also use abrasive pastes and sharp objects to avoid damaging the UV protection coating.

    Photo

    Options for mini greenhouses made of polycarbonate (see photo below):








    What can you grow?

    Polycarbonate mini construction is excellent suitable for growing various types seedlings, low-growing crops and even small amounts of vegetables.

    , – seedlings of these plants can be grown in a smaller version of the greenhouse. You can also grow early ripening beans in it.

    When growing peppers Sweet and bitter varieties should not be planted together inside the structure, since in this case it will be difficult to avoid cross-pollination.

    We build with our own hands

    There are several options construction of a polycarbonate mini-greenhouse. Two possible models will be discussed below.

    Recessed mini-greenhouse

    The optimal temperature for building a polycarbonate greenhouse is 10-12°C, since at temperatures exceeding this figure, sheets of material increase in volume, and subsequently, as the temperature decreases, they will decrease.

    Recessed option greenhouses are different simple device And able to retain heat well, which is released when manure is debated. The length of the structure can be any (within reason). As a rule, such structures are built no longer than three meters.

    The width should be no more than 1.5 m. With a large width of a mini-greenhouse, it is inconvenient to work with it, while a structure with a small width cannot accommodate required quantity manure, resulting in insufficient heating.

    The level of recess depends on the conditions in which the structure will be used: For low temperatures will be optimal depth 80 cm, and when using a greenhouse during mild cold weather, 30 cm will be enough.

    The top filling of the pit is soil (layer thickness 20 cm), the rest is filled with manure.

    The polycarbonate structure is installed on a log frame, which is mounted around the pit. For framing, logs with a diameter of 100-150 mm are used.

    To protect wood from exposure to moisture from should be treated with hot drying oil or cover the perimeter with pieces of old linoleum. The roof of a mini-greenhouse can have different design: arched, single or double slope. Here we will talk about a single-pitch structure.

    The roof frame can be assembled from wooden beams. First, the side structural elements, which are triangular-shaped parts ( the bottom of the parts must correspond to the width of the pit).

    Next, the finished “triangles” at the corners are fastened together with bars, the length of which will be determined based on the length of the pit. The upper and lower bars should also be fastened together with 2-3 transverse slats.

    The frame is ready. All that remains is to cover it on all sides (except for the bottom) with pieces of polycarbonate, securing them with self-tapping screws, and tape the places where the sheets adhere to the wood with tape.

    Hinged lid in this design not provided, therefore, during work, the structure will need to be completely removed for a while.

    Mobile mini-greenhouse

    This is a practical and economical option for a compact greenhouse that retains heat no worse than a recessed structure. This model can be use at stabilized temperature, in the second half spring season. A mini-greenhouse equipped with wheels can be easily moved around the site if necessary.

    For making mini greenhouses made of polycarbonate with your own hands, will be needed:

    • support frame;
    • four-wheel device;
    • plywood sheet for arranging the bottom;
    • two bars with which the rafter legs will be attached;
    • polycarbonate;
    • self-tapping screws

    To assemble the support frame, small-thick bars are used, which are fastened end-to-end using self-tapping screws. Wheels can be attached to stand legs. The side bars of the mini-greenhouse serve as a harness to which the rafter legs are attached.

    The roof is being installed on top gable design, which is assembled from frames equipped with polycarbonate, secured with self-tapping screws.

    From the ends design should be equipped with folding doors so that the greenhouse can be ventilated. The bottom of the structure is covered with film and filled with manure and soil.

    Mini-greenhouses made of polycarbonate – great alternative traditional glass options. The lightness and strength of the material, combined with the ease of assembly and installation during the construction of certain models, encourages people to choose polycarbonate structures.

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