They have long gained popularity due to their unusual appearance and unpretentiousness. They practically do not require any maintenance; even an inexperienced gardener can cope with growing them. A lot of varieties of this plant have been developed. In order not to get confused in such diversity, you need to study irises in advance, varieties with photos and names. This will help create a spectacular garden that will be the envy of all your neighbors.

Varieties of irises

Iris is a perennial unpretentious plant, which is different unusual shape and color of flowers. It is suitable for growing in open areas, flooded sunlight. A distinctive feature of the flowers is their enchanting delicate aroma. Therefore, they are often used in the perfume industry.

Wild irises today can be found in meadows, steppes or on steep cliffs. Under the conditions, about five hundred were withdrawn different varieties, which are suitable for growing on personal plots. They can be divided into several large groups:

• bearded;
• dwarf;
• bulbous;
• Siberian;
• swamp;
• Japanese.

In European countries, it is customary to divide these plants into 10–15 categories. Separately, border, Californian and some other species are distinguished. To decide which of them will take root better on your site, carefully study the irises, their varieties with photos and names.

Bearded irises

Bearded iris is considered one of the most common plant varieties. His distinctive feature there is the presence of fine hairs on the lower petals. They have a more saturated color compared to the general tone of the flower. Among the most spectacular varieties are:

This is just a small part of the variety on the market today. When choosing, pay attention to the fact that the flowers are in harmony with neighboring specimens and fit into the overall design plot.

The height of such varieties can reach 80 cm, so you should not plant them in close proximity to light-loving low-growing plants.

Dwarf irises

The dwarf iris differs from its fellows in its small stature. The height of the peduncles does not exceed 40 cm. In most varieties this parameter is even 20 cm. They will become ideal option for decorating small compact flower beds. Among the most popular varieties highlight:

Dwarf irises thrive in light, moisture-permeable soils. If the soil in your garden is heavy, add sand to it before planting.

Bulbous irises

Everyone is accustomed to the fact that irises are rhizomatous plants. Modern experts have managed to develop several varieties growing from bulbs. They are distinguished by unusually early flowering. They can be compared to snowdrops. As soon as the snow melts, the first flowers appear. There are three main types:

Bulbous irises look good in a flower bed with crocuses, galanthus and so on. They will be an ideal option for alpine slides.

These varieties can be grown in pots and large flowerpots. They will be an excellent decoration for verandas and gazebos.

Siberian irises

Photos of Siberian irises are impressive. They are different extraordinary beauty flowers. The value of this species also lies in the fact that the foliage of the plant has a rich green throughout the season. The most spectacular varieties are considered:

Such varieties look impressive along the banks of improvised reservoirs, in large ones. You can decorate your lawn with groups of such flowers, which will make the landscape unusual.

Swamp irises

Swamp iris or iris grows everywhere in our country. The leaves of this species are sword-shaped. Their length can reach two meters. This species does well in partial shade. Therefore, such flowers can be planted along fences or near trees with a not too thick crown. Among the most popular varieties are:

Having studied these varieties of irises with photos and names, we can conclude that they are ideal for group plantings. With the help different types Irises can be used to create spectacular flower beds.

Japanese irises

Japanese iris has orchid-shaped flowers. Their size can vary from 15 to 25 cm. In Japan, such plants are planted so that they can be admired from above. From this angle they look most impressive.

The plants are large, so when planting between them it is necessary to maintain a distance of at least 30 cm. The most popular varieties:

After studying photos of varieties of iris varieties, you can choose the right planting material suitable for your soil type. If you choose specimens with different flowering periods, you can admire the beauty of the flowers all summer long.

Irises bloom in the garden - video

When choosing bearded irises to grow on your site, first of all, decide on the size. The fact is that these flowers vary in height: there are bearded irises that grow up to 70 cm, and there are those that rise above the ground no higher than 5 cm. The best varieties bearded irises must meet certain requirements, you will learn about them by reading this material.

Medium-sized, tall and miniature bearded irises

Bearded irises are the largest group of irises, consisting of several classes.

Tall bearded irises (TV)- powerful plants with a height of 71 cm with a branched peduncle, many buds and large flowers, sometimes up to 20 cm in diameter. In the Moscow region they bloom from mid-June to early July.

Medium-sized bearded irises (MB) - from 41 to 70 cm in height, are in turn divided into three groups:

• border irises (BB) with a flowering period similar to tall bearded ones, but with a proportionally smaller flower;
• intermedia irises (IB) with a flower size of 10-13 cm and a flowering period in the Moscow region from the beginning of June; not necessarily highly branched, but forming a profusely flowering bush;
• table, or miniature tall bearded irises (MTB) - with a tall thin branched peduncle and relatively small (no wider than 8 cm) flowers, used mostly for bouquets and tables, which is where their name comes from.

Standard Bearded Dwarfs (SDB)- 21-40 cm high, in the Moscow region they bloom from the end of May.

Miniature Bearded Dwarfs (MDB)- the smallest, the height of such bearded irises is 5-20 cm. These flowers bloom very early (in the Moscow region from the first half of May).

Requirements for tall bearded irises

The modern tall bearded iris is a striking flower! Any person who sees it is fascinated by its beauty and is extremely surprised when he learns that growing luxurious irises is no more difficult than any other garden flowers or even vegetables in the garden. Perhaps there are so many erroneous opinions about any crop that many, even very experienced gardeners, are wary of it, usually contrasting new varieties with old ones. And it’s completely in vain: among modern varieties there are plenty of those that can bloom reliably and regularly in the middle zone and even have some advantage in resistance to the adversities of our harsh climate compared to historical varieties. Therefore, it is undoubtedly worth striving to acquire new varieties. But the main advantage of the new varieties is that they are immeasurably more beautiful than the old ones.

The progress in breeding flowers of tall bearded irises is amazing. The main attention is paid to the flower, because even just one flower - whether it grows in the garden or stands in a vase - can captivate the gardener’s imagination and make him fall in love forever. New ones are still appearing color combinations, exquisite color patterns that instantly gain immense popularity. But despite all the achievements in expansion color range irises, the main focus is on the quality of the flower.

Flower quality means:

• wide, sometimes interlocking halyards and closed standards at the base, making the flower collected, rounded and expressive;
• the density of the texture of the petals, which ensures resistance to precipitation and a longer lifespan of the flower;
• grace and uniformity of corrugation of shares;
• width, density and expressiveness of the beards.

An example of excellent flower quality is 'Paris Fashion' by Keith Keppel. Giant flowers Peduncles proportional to their size are also required - tall, strong, resistant to gusts of wind. To ensure that the opening flowers do not interfere with each other, they must be “spaced” on sufficiently long branches, and in order to ensure a long flowering period, there must be a large number of buds in the inflorescence.

Particularly attractive are the so-called exhibition varieties that have 3-5 simultaneously open flowers on the peduncle.

Considerable attention is also paid to the garden attractiveness of the iris - the health of the foliage, the rapid growth of the bush and the representativeness of its flowering, when the optimal number of flower stalks on the bush is approximately equal to half the number of leaf fans.

Of particular interest are those varieties whose bushes emit flower stalks not simultaneously, but over a period of time, providing exclusively long flowering. Remontant varieties have a long flowering period.

At correct selection varieties, the flowering of tall bearded irises lasts for 50 days.

The main requirement for iris varieties for cultivation in the northern regions is growth energy, which makes it possible to compensate for many other shortcomings of the plant. The next most important quality is frost resistance. Ability to resist low temperatures in winter is associated with the rhythm of plant development. Irises, whose growth ends by the end of summer and the leaves die off, overwinter much better and, therefore, their flower buds are not damaged in harsh winters.

Tall bearded irises are a very heat-loving crop. Thus, in the Moscow region and to the north, only 20% of the varieties grow successfully from their total number. Therefore, my advice to amateur gardeners is to be interested first of all in its frost resistance when purchasing.

Resistance to fungal and bacterial diseases is another important quality. Resistance to bacteriosis and heterosporiosis ensures healthy foliage, decorative planting and regular flowering.

The standard planting unit for bearded irises is usually an annual growth of iris rhizomes. In the middle zone they reach acceptable sizes by early August. This is the reason for the recommended planting period - the first half of August, however, good results can be obtained if planted before the beginning of September.

Which rhizomes are best to take for planting: large or small, annual (short) or biennial (long)? The answer to this question depends on your goals: if by all means you want to see an iris flower the next year after planting, choose a large rhizome with a wide fan of 6-8 leaves. If flowering next year is not important to you, but the reliability of overwintering and the survival rate of the plant are paramount, choose a medium-sized one or two-year-old rhizome with a diameter of 2-2.5 cm, with 3-4 leaves.

Agricultural technology for growing bearded irises: planting and care

The agricultural technology for growing bearded irises depends on the purposes of their cultivation, so it is impossible to give any universal scheme. Some grow irises by planting and annually digging up planting material, usually for sale. Others plant irises to decorate the garden in a border, mixborder, rockery or on a rocky hill, where it is advisable not to touch them for several years.

The most important factors for successful growing are light and drainage. Do not forget also that irises are heat-loving plants. The more sun irises receive in the garden, the better they bloom. A little shade in the morning or evening is, of course, acceptable, but only some varieties of irises, such as the intermedia ‘In a Flash’, will withstand more serious shade. Southern slopes are preferable to northern ones; a place near the southern wall of the building would also be good. It is good if the landing site is cleared from the prevailing cold winds.

When the soil is excessively moistened, the respiration of the roots is disrupted and they partially die, which leads to a slowdown in plant development.

Under such conditions, bacterial rot also develops on the rhizomes of irises.

If the soil is sufficiently drained, irises can also be planted on flat surface If the soil is heavy and clayey, then it is better to plant them on a hill or on ridges. Ridges are also more convenient from the point of view of constructing a winter shelter.

High soil fertility is the key to successful cultivation and productivity of tall bearded irises in central Russia.

Bearded irises do best in light, sandy soils. Loams are also acceptable, but the addition of sand and organic materials (peat, composted sawdust, humus) significantly improves the structure and permeability of the soil, which leads to excellent results. You just need to take into account that to improve the soil to a depth of 20 cm, you will need to add approximately 100 liters of sand per 1 m2 of soil.

The optimal level of soil reaction (pH) is 6.8.

If you intend to grow irises in beds, then their preparation consists of the following operations:

• clearing the area from the roots of perennial weeds;
• delivery to the site of compost or other available organic material;
• leveling organic matter over the area while simultaneously adding wood ash or dolomite flour and mixing it with the soil with a pitchfork or shovel.
• raking mineral fertilizers: potassium sulfate and superphosphate, as well as ground or colloidal sulfur in an amount of 5-7 g/m2;
• shaping the profile of the ridge and compacting the soil to avoid further subsidence and bulging of newly planted plants. The height of the bed profile after compaction is approximately 7-8 cm;
• delivery to the ridges of coarse-grained river or washed quarry sand in such quantity as to form a layer of approximately 5-7 cm, and level it;
• The ridge is ready for planting. To preserve the structure of the ridge, it is convenient to plant bearded irises in the following way: spread the sand slightly by sticking the bayonet of a shovel into it, place the roots of the iris section into the resulting gap, compact the soil around the roots and water the substrate, move it towards the planted iris section so that it is in the layer sand

The cuttings are planted on the ridge in such a way that the cut part of the rhizome is directed towards the edge of the ridge, and the fan of leaves is directed towards the middle. In this case, the growing roots will be directed towards the center of the ridge, which will make it easier in the future to water the plants into the groove in the center of the ridge.

Irises can be replanted at any time during the growing season. However, spring replanting may result in poor flowering this year. In the middle zone, optimal results are obtained when planting and replanting irises in August: the plants have enough time to take root and gain sufficient weight to fully bloom the next year. Irises planted later, that is, in the fall, usually remain healthy, but do not have time to take root before the onset of cold weather. This can lead to rhizomes sticking out of the ground when the soil freezes. To avoid bulging of the rhizome, additional mulching is required for the winter or simply fixing the rhizome with a suitable object at hand.

A common mistake when planting and caring for bearded irises is over-burying the rhizomes. It is recommended to plant irises so that the back of the rhizome is at the surface of the soil. In the winter, it is better to sprinkle the exposed rhizome with soil, and in the spring it needs to be raked off.

When caring for bearded irises, it is mandatory in the first weeks after planting the irises for successful rooting. To ensure abundant flowering, adult specimens of bearded irises require watering only when there is insufficient precipitation, especially in May, when the weather is often hot and dry, sometimes in June-July. However, in August, and even more so in September-October, adult bushes no longer need watering. At this time, the plant is preparing for winter, and its growth should not be stimulated.

Irises should be fed as follows: early spring, and 3-4 weeks after flowering. Fertilizing with soluble fertilizers gives a quick effect: in the spring - complex with microelements, in July-August - potassium phosphate.

For the successful cultivation of bearded irises, phosphorus is the most important of the main nutrients; therefore, when preparing a site for irises, it is advisable to fill the soil with superphosphate (100 g/m2) or bone meal(200-300 g/m2). Can be used for spring-summer fertilizing complex fertilizer with a low nitrogen content, for example, NPK=6:10:10. The autumn mixture has a ratio of NPK = 0:13:18, it also contains magnesium and elemental sulfur, the latter being 5%. The spring mixture for feeding has the formula NPK=8:37:11.

The best organic fertilizer for iris crops is well-rotted compost.

Bearded irises successfully grow in one place for 4-5 years. The specific timing of bush renewal depends both on the variety and on the agricultural technology used. Some time after planting, the iris bush thickens, which ultimately leads to the cessation of flowering. How quickly thickening occurs depends on the multiplication rate of the variety. Some varieties are characterized by vigorous growth, and at the same time are not too demanding on external conditions.

As the bush ages, it is advisable to increase the amount of fertilizing. If these measures do not bring the desired effect, the bush needs to be dug up entirely, the soil should be updated by adding mature compost and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, and plant 3-4 of the strongest shoots, shortening the leaves by about 2/3.

Many modern varieties do not need shelter for the winter. If the variety is chosen for the beauty of the flower, but is not winter-hardy enough, additional efforts will be required in preparing for winter. The main problems for irises in winter in the middle zone arise when an ice crust forms on frozen ground without snow, preventing the plants from breathing.

It is convenient to cover irises with spruce branches or oak leaves, which have the property of not caking. To prevent such a frame from getting wet, it must be covered with a non-woven covering material or film - under them the irises will not smear in winter.

Irises overwinter best under dry air cover by first drying the ridge, which usually takes one month. The easiest way to provide protection from rain is to use a dense reinforced film laid on arches or directly on the foliage of irises. The ends of the shelter should be open for free air circulation, and they should be closed for the winter. The estimated construction time for the shelter is late October - early November.

In spring, the film is removed from the shelter as early as possible, immediately after the snow melts, and other material is removed as needed.

Varietal irises are propagated vegetatively, that is, by dividing the rhizomes. To speed up propagation, you need to remove the flower bud located at the base of the fan of leaves in the fall. After this, the plant’s lateral buds begin to grow, which form new powerful shoots in the spring. There is no need to dig up the rhizome to separate them. On a dry sunny day, you need to rake away the ground, tear off the dried and yellowing leaves, and cut the remaining green leaves to the rhizome. The cut must be disinfected and left to dry in the sun. After the wound has healed after a few days, the rhizome needs to be mulched with soil so that the awakening buds can form roots. Often recommended for propagating irises, dividing the rhizome into bud cuttings is much less effective way, since in this case the plant is severely injured and, as a result, flowering occurs much later.

For propagation, dormant buds on 2-3-year-old rhizomes can also be successfully used. To do this, pieces of rhizomes are cut out from the middle of the bush and simply transplanted to a new place.

New varieties of tall bearded irises for the middle zone

The description provides the following information: name of the bearded iris variety, originator, year of registration, characteristics of the flower, flowering period.

Sundress

Pirogov 2000

Golden-smoky top with a lilac touch. Along the white field of the bottom there are purple dots and strokes, a golden-smoky border. Bright yellow pistil ridges glowing in the depths of the flower. Exceptionally vigorous growth and regular abundant and long-lasting flowering. Early.

Queen

Sholupov 2003

Rich purple-violet, with a velvety lobe texture and powerful corrugation. The exhibition peduncle easily holds several simultaneously open flowers. Average term flowering.

Cranberry Sauce

Black 2002

Cranberry South

A silky-brilliant flower with a lilac-crimson tint. Yellow beards highlight the magnificent depth of color. Average flowering time.

Darcy's Choice

Schreiner 2007

Aarsis Choice is a flower of original color with white beards on crimson halyards. Wonderful branched peduncle. Average flowering time.

Dawn then Dusk

Schreiner 2008

Aoun Tu Dusk

A bicolor pink-purple flower that takes on a unique gray hue in acidic soils: unexpected and attractive. Medium late.

Edgefield Glow

Schreiner 2011

Edgefield Glow

An exceptionally bright orange flower with dark tangerine beards. This new variety of bearded irises has incomparable color and excellent growth vigor, unlike other orange forms. Mid-early.

Never Been Kissed

Blyth 2008

Never Vin

Kissed Fashionable reverse: blue top and pure white bottom. Luxurious flower delicate color. Distinctive feature- the best corrugation to date. Mid-early.

Palace Symphony

Blyth 2007

Palace Symphony

A purple-wine flower with almost black beards and exceptional ruffles. A variety that combines best features American and Australian selection. Average flowering time.

Royal Birth

Royal 2003

Royal Burf

Creamy white with golden halyard bases. Dense texture of the flower. Abundant flowering and sustainable growth. Mid-early flowering period.

Undivided Attention

Ernst 2004

Unbiased Attention

Rich pink, warm salmon color, thicker in the center of the flower. Bright coral beards. Abundantly flowering variety. Medium late.

Warranty

T. Johnson 2004

Warranty

A huge soaring purple-black flower with a velvety texture on a tall stalk. Mid-late flowering period.

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Recently, lovers of perennial iris flowers are increasingly cultivating beardless varieties. But fans of the classics prefer growing bearded irises - beautiful and austere flowers with a massive petal in the form of a “tongue” or “beard,” which is a distinctive feature of this plant, its “zest.” By grouping varieties of irises by flowering time, you can provide decorativeness from May to July.

In nature, there is a flower that smoothly leads us from spring to summer. Wild irises are the first to bloom in early spring, they are replaced by “bearded” dwarfs and Spuria, and by the end of May the garden shimmers with all the colors of the rainbow thanks to the numerous varieties of tall bearded irises. In June, marking the arrival of summer, Siberian and Japanese flowers delight us with their grace.

The perennial plant iris belongs to the family Irisaceae, or iris. There are about 200 species native to Europe, Asia, Africa, North America. In the 20th century irises have gained wide recognition among gardeners in most countries, and in terms of the number of varieties (more than 35 thousand), this crop has taken one of the first places.

You can judge what an iris looks like even from the most ancient frescoes. The history of the flower goes back centuries. Irises were cultivated in the gardens of the Egyptian pharaohs. IN Ancient Greece Entire fields were planted with them. Due to the variety of colors, the plant was given the name “iris”, which means “rainbow” in Greek. The ancient Hellenes revered irises and considered them messengers of the golden-winged goddess Iris, the messenger of the gods, the interpreter of their will.

Irises attracted people not only with their beautiful flowers. They were valued as medicinal plants, perfumery and confectionery raw materials.

Irises- perennial rhizomatous plants. The rhizome is located parallel to the soil level at a shallow depth and in bearded irises it comes to the surface. Rhizome containing stock nutrients, consists of annual units. The newly formed links end in a bunch of sessile leaves that die off annually. The leaves are broadly or narrowly xiphoid, straight or sickle-shaped, most often collected in a fan-shaped bunch. In spring they are usually light green, darkening in summer.

What is the difference between the description of bearded irises? hybrid varieties? The leaves of these plants are usually bluish with a waxy coating and, as a rule, persist until late autumn. Therefore, irises decorate the garden not only during flowering.

Peduncles branch and bear from 1 to 10 flowers or more. The number of branches depends on the type and variety. The height of the stem varies greatly among different species - from 15 cm for dwarf iris to 2 m for marsh iris.

The flowers, distinguished by their extraordinary grace and sophistication, consist of 6 perianth lobes, arranged in two tiers: the three outer petals are bent downwards, and the three inner ones are raised up and form a dome. The perianth lobes are deployed in such a way that every detail of each “petal” is visible. What do iris flowers look like? bearded varieties? On their lower petals there are soft, bristly growths resembling a beard, which gives the group its name.

The iris flower is remarkable for its sparkling, mysterious shine of its petals, especially noticeable in the slanting rays of the sun or under electric lighting. This is explained by the peculiar structure of cells that focus light, like miniature optical lenses. It’s not for nothing that in the old days some people called irises gems rainbow colors.

The colors of the flowers are incredibly diverse. There are solemnly velvety, mysteriously black irises, but no less mysterious is the sparkling shine of white and light blue flowers, reminiscent of the transparency of ice or crystal. And between white and black there is a whole range of blue, purple, pink, yellow, reddish and even brown shades. Neither painting nor photography fully conveys the play of color, texture, and graceful lines of these flowers. It’s not for nothing that irises are compared to.

Look at what the iris looks like in the photo to once again enjoy the beauty of this plant:

Conditions for growing bearded irises

Now it’s time to find out how irises are grown in garden plots. For hybrid bearded irises, sunny places, protected from strong winds, are selected. They can tolerate light partial shade from trees. Most varieties have very large flowers, for which gusts of wind and rain are especially dangerous. Therefore, during the period of mass flowering in windy, rainy weather, gartering of flower stalks is required.

One more thing important condition for growing irises - the presence of light, loamy soil. If the soil in the area is heavy, it needs to be improved by adding sand and peat. Wood ash is added to acidic soils. Before planting, the area should be dug up with a spade and all weeds should be carefully removed. Rotted manure is applied to a depth of 20-25 cm, without mixing it with the soil.

Irises are afraid of excess moisture, so they grow best in areas with low standing. groundwater. However, during the period of budding and flowering, they show an increased need for water. Good watering at this time helps prolong flowering and creates favorable conditions for pollination. Watering is best done in the evening.

Faded flowers of bearded irises are removed, and the flower stalks are broken off entirely at the end of flowering. In late autumn, the leaves are shortened to 10 cm. Plants are covered with a small layer of mulch for the winter. Frost-unresistant varieties are covered more thoroughly. In the spring, after the snow melts, carefully stir up the compacted winter shelter. It is completely removed in early or mid-April, depending on weather conditions. Bearded irises, despite their southern origin, tolerate spring frosts quite well compared to other perennials with temperatures dropping to -5...-7 °C.

How to plant irises correctly and how to care for them

How to plant irises correctly to ensure their vigorous growth? Plants are propagated by rhizomes. To do this, the root is dug up and divided into planting units, the so-called delenki, each of which consists of 1-3 annual links. Before planting irises, root sections are treated with crushed charcoal or a solution of potassium permanganate.

When is the best time to plant irises so that they germinate on time? Optimal time for planting irises - 2 weeks after flowering. With a lump of earth they can be replanted at any time. However late boarding(later September 10-15) leads to poor rooting of plants. When planting, it is important that the division is not buried. The rhizome is placed almost at the level of the soil surface. A mound of earth is poured into the bottom of the hole and the roots are evenly spread along its slopes, covering them with earth and squeezing them tightly with your hands. Water generously with water and check once again whether the division is planted firmly enough. The rhizome should be horizontal, and the fan of leaves should be slightly inclined. Tall and medium-sized irises are planted at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other, and low-growing ones - 15-20 cm.

The landing links are positioned so that there is room for “movement”. The root system of irises is directed forward (along the growth of the rhizome), and the planted section will continue to grow in the part where the fan of leaves is located. When planting irises in nests, the plane of the leaves should be directed across the outlined circle.

If the soil is clayey and does not drain water well, it is recommended to plant the tree on a “cushion” of sand or fine gravel so that the water does not stagnate and the rhizome does not rot. When planting, the rhizome is not buried, but only sprinkled with a layer of soil of no more than 2-3 cm - over time it will come to the surface on its own.

After planting irises, when caring for plants, fertilizing is carried out at least three times. Doesn't exist universal recommendations, how to care for irises in terms of fertilizers, but one rule must be firmly remembered: excessive fertilizing is detrimental to plants. The first feeding is carried out in the spring, immediately after removing the cover (nitrogen-phosphorus - 3:1), the second after 2-3 weeks (nitrogen-potassium - 1:1). At the end of flowering, nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (3:1:3) is added. The last feeding is very important for good flowering of irises next year, it should not be missed. Fertilizing is carried out at the rate of 10 liters of solution per 1 m2, or 6 iris bushes. During the summer, the soil around the plants is lightly sprinkled with ash 1-3 times, which is not only a top dressing, but also repels pests and prevents diseases.

Here you can see photos of planting and caring for irises of various groups:

Now that you know how to care for irises, check out the most popular varieties.

Varieties of bearded irises with photos, names and flowering dates

Bearded irises are divided into 3 groups according to height: low-growing (25-36 cm), medium-growing (37-70 cm), tall (more than 70 cm).

According to the timing of flowering, varieties are divided into early, mid-early, middle, mid-late and late. The beginning of flowering of each of these subgroups may vary from year to year depending on weather conditions. For example, in the Moscow region, early varieties of bearded irises bloom in mid-May and bloom until the end of the month. The mid-early ones bloom in the last five days of May and finish flowering in the first ten days of June. Medium and mid-late varieties, which predominate in our gardens, bloom throughout June. Late varieties, which bloom in early July, are grown extremely rarely.

Based on flower color, irises are divided into 13 classes: white, red, orange, yellow, green, blue, violet, red-violet, black, two-tone, two-color, bordered, iridescent.

It should be noted that the green color of irises has a yellowish or brownish tint. There are no varieties with scarlet, pure red coloring: irises have brown, terracotta, cherry shades. Pink irises are classified as light red. Brown classified as dark orange. Black has blue, violet, brown, dark cherry shades and is characterized by special depth and velvety.

Below you will see photos and names of varieties of bearded irises that bloom from mid-May, and also read their descriptions.

"Arkady Raikin". This variety of iris received its name in honor of the great Russian comedian. Peduncle 80-100 cm, strong, short-branched, 5-7-flowered. The flower is 12-13 cm, delicate reddish-pink in color, the outer lobes are semi-drooping, the inner lobes are slightly frilled at the edges, the aroma is strong.

"Beverly Hills". The height of the bush is 50 cm, peduncles are 80-85 cm. In an inflorescence there are 3-4 very spectacular flower with a diameter of 17 cm. The upper lobes of the perianth are light pink, very wavy, the lower ones are paler, floating. Pink beard.

"Blue Staccato" The height of the bush is 55-60 cm, peduncles are 90-100 cm. The inflorescence contains 4-5 very spectacular flowers with a diameter of 16 cm.

Pay attention to the photo of the flowers of this variety of bearded iris - the upper perianth lobes are blue-blue, wavy, slightly fringed, the lower ones are white with a blurred blue border, the beard is golden-yellow:

"Burgomaster". The height of the peduncles is 100-110 cm. There are 5-7 flowers in the inflorescence. The outer lobes are violet-lilac with a brownish border, the inner ones are yellowish-cream. The beauty of the flower is emphasized by elegant corrugation.

"Gvardeysky". Peduncle 125-140 cm, strong, long-branched, 10-12-flowered. Flower 14-15 cm, sunny yellow with an orange beard, strong honey aroma.

"Canada's Gold" Peduncle 90-105 cm, strong, short-branched. The flower is light golden yellow with an orange beard and has a strong aroma. It blooms profusely and the bush grows quickly.

"Saprim Sultan". It has a powerful bush with strong peduncles up to 120 cm high and more. It has the largest flowers to date (more than 20 cm in diameter). This variety of bearded iris is bicolor: the inner lobes are bronze-yellow, the outer lobes are red-brown and velvety. It is distinguished by its beautiful corrugation and unusual bubbly edges of the petals.

"Kentucky Derby". The height of the bush is 50 cm, peduncles are 80-90 cm. The inflorescence has 5-6 flowers with a diameter of 16 cm. The perianth lobes are light lemon-yellow, wavy, with fringed edges, on the lower ones there is a creamy white spot in the center. The beard is golden.

Every gardener's dream is a garden that blooms continuously throughout the season. The presence of irises on the site allows you to fill the pause from spring bulbous and primroses to the summer extravaganza of colors. Graceful, amazingly beautiful, proud and delicate flowers will fill the space with enchanting rainbow colors. Caring for irises is as simple as these magnificent beauties are good and unpretentious. For more than two centuries, they have tirelessly delighted others and inspired poets and artists to create masterpieces.

Iris is a perennial herbaceous ornamental flowering rhizomatous plant. Aboveground part on winter period dies off, renewing in spring with fan-shaped, light green leaves with a bluish bloom, vertical or slightly drooping, depending on the species. The strong stem of the peduncle, practically without leaves, is crowned graceful flowers, the size of which can vary from 5 to 15 cm in diameter. The variety of colors and shades allows you to create fabulous pictures of iris plantings in your garden design.

The botanical classification of irises is quite extensive and complex. For gardeners, especially amateurs, it is preferable to use its simplified form, according to which all irises are divided into two main groups:

• Bearded irises, common feature for which there is a comb-like longitudinal groove of villi (beard) on the three outer perianths;
• Non-bearded, united in a group of specific and interspecific irises, including Siberian, Japanese, marsh, Louisiana, Californian, spuria, Kaempfer and others that do not have a characteristic beard.

The genus of bearded or hybrid iris unites over 30 thousand varieties obtained as a result of selection by complex crossing of the German iris with other species. All of them, without exception, are light-loving and prefer light neutral soils, need infrequent but abundant watering during flowering. Excess moisture is contraindicated to avoid rotting of the rhizomes. The presence of an increased content of organic matter in the soil provokes a powerful increase in vegetative mass, while reducing the intensity of flowering.

The main classification of bearded irises is based on the height of the peduncle, the size of the flower and the color of the perianth.

In the spring, missing warmth and flowers, we greet bulbous primroses with special tenderness and joy. The largest of...

Tall irises They have a rich color palette, striking the imagination with a variety of shades. The size of the flowers can reach 15 cm in diameter, the height of the peduncle can be up to 70 cm. Plain or contrastingly colored folles (lower perianths) decorated with a beard can be smooth or have a corrugated edge, also different in corrugation shape. Proud standards (upper perianths) form an elegant crown crowning this magnificent creation of nature - the bearded iris flower.

Tall bearded irises

Class medium height Bearded irises are divided into three groups: border, table and intermedia.

• • Border irises They have the largest (up to 8 cm) of the medium-sized flowers and bloom at the same time as the tall ones.
  • Table irises(miniature tall) - owners of a thin, graceful, branched stem topped with small flowers, up to 5 cm.
  • Intermedia- the earliest flowering and shade-tolerant of all medium-sized irises, with fairly large flowers (5-7 cm). Intensively growing, resistant to adverse weather conditions.

Medium-sized bearded irises (border)
Medium-sized bearded irises (intermedia)

short Bearded irises are divided into two groups: miniature dwarf and standard dwarf.

• Miniature dwarfs do not exceed 20 cm in height, bloom in May, these look great (you can find out more about them);
• Standard dwarfs grow up to 40 cm, flowering begins in June, used mainly for mixborders and rockeries. Frost-resistant and unpretentious, they are gaining increasing popularity among gardeners.

Non-bearded irises

No less charming, delicate and amazing non-bearded irises have long been in the shadow of their majestic bearded relatives. Only in recent decades have flower growers and landscapers begun to pay due attention to them. Irises, united in the group of non-bearded ones, differ in appearance and preferences, but nevertheless, they are also exquisite, easy to care for and unpretentious, like the Germans.

• • Siberian irises- the largest group of naturally occurring species. The ancestors of the Siberian irises, horn-leaved and blood-red irises, grow everywhere on Far East and in Siberia. Habitus, flower shape, palette of delicate blue shades, abundant flowering and, with all this, amazing vitality, the ability to bloom safely in shaded areas - all these qualities have made “Siberians” welcome guests in modern gardens. The lack of aroma is their only drawback.

Siberian non-bearded iris

• Japanese, also known as hana-shobu, are the most ancient group of garden irises. They began to be cultivated in their homeland at the end of the sixteenth century. The amazing shape of a huge orchid-like flower (up to 25 cm in diameter) fascinates and causes admiration. Japanese iris is very demanding of soil moisture, but we should not forget that it is not an aquatic plant. He will not tolerate landing in a body of water and will die. Quite capricious, in conditions middle zone Not very often pleasing with its flowering, it is nevertheless popular among gardeners who do not give up trying to see a fabulous flower in their area.
• Swamp irises- the most unpretentious, resistant to natural disasters, preferring high humidity soil, but at the same time capable of doing without water for a long time. As if painted in watercolors, bright green, with slightly hanging ends, thin leaves form lush fountains, crowned with medium-sized flowers during flowering delicate flowers. Feels great both in the coastal zone of a reservoir and with partial immersion.

Iris planting dates

In terms of planting time, irises are quite specific plants. It is almost impossible to determine the exact time, since its choice depends on many factors and is different for different regions: timing of snow cover melting, soil and air temperature, time of active growth and many others. As a rule, for each specific climatic zone, the time for transplanting irises is determined experimentally. The basic rule to follow is that the roots on the rhizome must be ready for transplanting.

Two periods are considered optimal:

• 2-3 weeks after the end of flowering, the rudiments of newly formed roots begin to appear on the rhizomes; they are clearly visible and look like tubercles on the surface of the rhizome. This is the best time to divide and replant irises; no harm will be done to the root system, the roots on the rhizomes quickly grow in a new place and rooting takes place with absolutely no damage to the plant.
• If it was not possible to transplant at the beginning of summer, then there is a risk of damaging the young fragile roots. In this case, this operation is postponed to the end of August. By this time, the regrown roots will become elastic and strong. It should be borne in mind that this replanting time is only suitable for regions with long, warm autumns, then the plants have time to take root and prepare for winter.

Features of reproduction, planting and care

For all types of irises, planting and care are generally carried out according to the same rules:

• Warm sunny location;
• Abundant watering during flowering;
• Mineral supplements;
• Timely division.

Following these simple rules allows you to grow healthy and strong plants.

It is recommended to divide clumps of bearded irises every 3 years, and once every 5-7 years for non-bearded irises. Otherwise, compaction and depletion of the soil around the rhizome occurs, the center of the bush falls out, it takes on a concentric shape and loses its decorative effect, and the intensity of flowering decreases.

Irises are propagated by dividing the rhizome, which consists of clearly visible annual growths. Using a sharp knife, the rhizome is divided into parts with well-formed rosettes of leaves, which are shortened by half the height to reduce moisture loss. A division of an iris is called a “spatula”. Before planting, it is recommended to treat the “blades” in a solution copper-containing drug to prevent fungal infections. Then, during the day, the division is kept on outdoors To make the cuttings weather, they are treated with crushed coal and planted in the ground. When planting, it is very important not to bury the plant’s rhizome; it is recommended to leave part of it on the surface. U experienced gardeners There is an opinion that it is better to plant smaller than the norm than to bury it deeper and provoke rotting.

Caring for irises is not particularly difficult. Timely division of clumps contributes to the normal development of the plant and the preservation of its decorative qualities. Carrying out scheduled fertilizing allows you to maintain a stable mineral balance of the soil. The main thing to remember is that the “menu” of irises should not include organic fertilizers. The best option is a solution of mineral complexes, applied 2-3 times during the season. “Agricola” and “Fertika” have proven themselves to be excellent. In the second half of summer, fertilizing is not recommended. dried flower stalks.

The landing site is selected based on species features iris.

• • For bearded varieties a necessary condition comfortable existence are well-lit areas with aerated, light soil. Very good place iris plantings on minor slopes to prevent stagnation melt water, and away from the wind rose, in a quiet place - a strong wind spoils and breaks the majestic large flowers of the “bearded flowers”.
  • Non-bearded irises prefer moist, rich, hygroscopic soil; they tolerate partial shade normally, but are also very sensitive to stagnant water. Before planting, it is recommended to add sand under the rhizome into the hole.

Careful monitoring of plants throughout the season helps protect them from pests and diseases.

The most dangerous disease for irises is fusarium - rhizomatous rot. At the first signs, it is necessary to lift the diseased plant from the ground, carefully examine the rhizome, cut out the affected areas, soak it in the “Maxim” preparation and remove it from other plants.

Gladiolus thrips, cutworms and slugs damage irises. Insecticide treatment works well against the first two; traps and slugs are used to combat slugs. manual collection, as well as spilling metaldehyde granules into the rows.

Beautiful irises play a leading role in garden and park design, fitting perfectly into the landscape of any style. In flower beds, ridges, and mixborders during flowering, they take the lead in the overall score, and then continue to decorate the garden with strong bluish fans of leaves, wonderfully shading and creating a background for other plants.

The variety of shapes and colors, the bizarre beauty of the flower give the iris every right to be called a “northern orchid”. Neither drawings nor photographs can fully convey the graceful lines of these exquisite flowers, the play of color and light, and the varied texture of the flower.

Irises may look velvety, or can shimmer with a silky or satin shine, play with small sparkles, like snow in the sun.

Iris scent will not yield to aromas oriental spices: They can smell like vanilla and allspice, wisteria and lilac, valerian and even seaweed.

Iris belongs to the Iris family (Iridaceae Juss). This family has more than a hundred genera and 1,700 species, found on all continents. Many ornamental bulbous, corm and rhizomatous perennials are included in this family: iris, gladiolus, crocus, tigridia, freesia, montbretia, ixia and a number of other, less known, but very ornamental plants.

The Iris genus is the most extensive. Its flowers are very unique: they have no sepals or petals. The beauty of the flower is made up of six petal-shaped perianth lobes - three upper (internal) and three lower (external).

Master Touch - champion of the USA, Canada, Italy, Australia and Russia

Elizabeth Noble (Elizabeth Noble). Smith, 1953

Tiburon (Tiburon). Gauter, 1971

Latin lover (Latin Lover). Snoop, 1969

Winner's Circle (Winner's Circle). Plow, 1972

Dutch Chocolate (Dach Choklet). Schreiner's, 1970

Navaho Blanket (Navajo Blenkit). Schreiner's, 1978

Starburst. Tompkins, 1967

Stepping Out (Stepping Out). Schreiner's, 1964

The basis of the variety of irises is the class of tall bearded irises. According to the American classification, it is divided into six groups:

- MDB- the earliest flowering, so-called miniature dwarf bearded irises with a peduncle up to 25 cm high;

- S.D.B.- standard dwarf bearded irises with a peduncle 25-36 cm high;

- I.B.- early varieties with a peduncle height of 37-69 cm and flowers with a diameter of 7.5-12.5 cm;

- MTV- the so-called miniature bearded irises, with a peduncle height of 37-69 cm and a flower diameter of 5-7.5 cm;

- BB- border bearded late-flowering irises with a peduncle height of 37-69 cm and a flower with a diameter of 7.5 cm or more;

- TV- All tall varieties with a peduncle higher than 70 cm and unlimited flower sizes.

In many European countries, America, Japan and Australia, iris is one of the most common and beloved perennials. In our country, unfortunately, this culture is not yet so popular, although the relative unpretentiousness and high decorative qualities should provide the iris with a worthy place in the design of gardens and parks.

When landscaping it is necessary pay attention to the selection of varieties not only for decorative qualities, but also for flowering periods, which will allow you to admire the flowers of this beautiful perennial for a long time from June to mid-July. Irises can be planted in borders, borders, single plantings, and in groups on lawns.

It is good to complement plantings with small bulbous crops, various types sedum and saxifrage, interspersed with daffodils, lilies, colchicum. Irises combine very harmoniously with stones of various shapes and sizes, because in nature many species grow on rocky screes, among boulders.

Selection and preparation of a site for planting irises

Irises grow best in a sunny location., protected from the winds, on light loamy soils of neutral, slightly acidic or slightly alkaline reaction. They can grow even on clean sands provided they are fed regularly. In heavy clay soils sand and peat should be added.

Bearded irises do not tolerate stagnant moisture, especially on heavy soils. In this case, it is necessary to plant them in high flower beds and ridges, or arrange drainage. Before planting, the area must be dug to the depth of a garden spade. When preparing the soil special attention pay attention to clearing it of perennial rhizomatous weeds. Particularly dangerous; sow thistle, creeping wheatgrass.

Propagation of irises, dividing and replanting irises

Varietal irises, like many other perennials, are propagated only vegetatively. Seeds are used exclusively for breeding purposes and for propagation of species. The branched rhizome of the bearded iris consists of individual thickened links - shortened annual shoots.

A planting division can consist of one or two fused annual links. The rhizome is broken or cut. Cutting tool it is necessary to disinfect with a strong solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate).

Old delenki without leaves and living roots they are usually not used, but if there is a lack of planting material, even these can be planted. Old rhizomes and even cuttings of rhizomes germinate, increasing the reproduction rate. Before planting, the leaves of the divisions are shortened by two-thirds, young roots by half, old roots are completely removed.

Divide and replant bushes recommended after three to four years. Otherwise, in the fifth or sixth year, flowering weakens and thickening leads to rotting of the rhizomes. Without digging up the entire bush from the ground, you can use part of it for propagation. It is advisable to cut out those branches of rhizomes that are intertwined with each other. A bush rejuvenated by such an operation will bloom profusely for another one or two years. Using this technique, you can cultivate irises in one place for up to six years.

Method of bud propagation of irises

If there is a shortage planting material The bud propagation method is used. At the base of each leaf, the rhizomes bear bud buds. On individual links they become large. Then the leaf fan should be cut off by two-thirds, the old roots should be removed, the young roots should be trimmed, leaving them 2-3 cm long, and part of the rhizome with the leaf fan should be cut off.

Then you need to cut the rhizome lengthwise into two parts and crosswise into cuttings 1.5-2 cm long. Disinfected for 15 minutes in a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate and dried, the cuttings are planted in rows to a depth of 2-3 cm in washed or calcined sand.

Bud cutting method justifies itself when you need to get the largest number of plants from a small number of mother bushes in the shortest possible time. In all other cases, iris varieties are easier to propagate by dividing the bushes.

Planting, planting time for irises

The best time to plant irises is July-August. In July, the irises begin their second wave of growth, the roots grow intensively, so they take root very well. By August, the formation of young rhizomes ends, which will flower in next year. Therefore, nurseries sell irises in August.

Before the end of the growing season, they manage to take root well, and next year one link of the rhizome will form a strong bush, if it is not allowed to bloom.
In late autumn plantings the plants do not have time to take root, and late autumn or early spring frosts squeeze them out of the soil.

Handling bushes, When root system taken with a clod of earth, performed if necessary at any time during the growing season.

It is very important to maintain the correct planting depth: upper part The rhizomes should be located at the level of the soil surface. When planted deeply, the rhizomes either rot or are delayed in development and form stolons to reach the soil surface. When planting in groups, it is recommended to plant irises according to a 30x30 cm pattern, and for row planting - 30x60 or 30x100 cm.

Caring for irises, how to fertilize

On poor soils per season growing season must be carried out at least three feedings mineral fertilizers:

- When plants begin to grow, they are fed with nitrogen-phosphorus fertilizers in a ratio of 3:1.

- Then after two or three weeks- nitrogen-potassium (1:1).

- After two to three weeks after flowering, nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied (3:1:3).
This is very important for the flowering of irises next year.

It is not recommended to apply fertilizers later, especially nitrogen ones. so as not to increase the green mass of the plant. This may prevent the rhizomes from fully preparing for wintering. For the same reason, it is not recommended to water irises from mid-August. Irises only need watering during drought. However, during planting, during budding and when applying fertilizers, watering is required.

- After flowering, it is necessary to remove the flower stalks, since in rainy weather they can rot. In October, iris leaves are cut at a height of 10-15 cm.

Now many frost-resistant varieties have been bred, which do not require shelter in the temperate zone - they almost do not freeze. More heat-loving varieties are sprinkled with a 5 cm thick layer of earth or peat, and spruce branches are placed on top.

Irises are not afraid of severe frosts, if the snow cover is at least 20 cm deep. They suffer much more from autumn and early spring snowless frosts.

Helen Collingwood (Helen Collingwood). Smith, 1949. Two-colored, the upper perianth lobes (UPS) are white, sparkling, the lower perianth lobes (LLO) are velvety, dark purple, the beard is yellow. Height 90 cm. Mid-late, late. Resistant to diseases, grows very quickly.

Elizabeth Noble (Elizabeth Noble). Smith, 1953. Two-color, VDO - white, sparkling, NDO - velvety, dark purple, light yellow beard. Medium flowering period. Height 90 cm. Resistant to diseases, grows very quickly.

Tiburon (Tiburon). Gauter, 1971. One-color, deep lilac, corrugated, lace, sparkling. The beard is bright red. Height 90 cm. Medium flowering period.

Latin Lover (Latin Lover). Snoop, 1969. Two-color, VDO - sparkling, pink, slightly corrugated, NDO - velvety, bright purple, dense. Height 90 cm. Medium flowering period.

Winner's Circle (Winner's Circle). Plow, 1972. Single-color dark purple, with a striking white stroke on the lower back near the beard. The perianth lobes are wide, dense, velvety, slightly corrugated. Height 85 cm. Begins flowering from early varieties and ends with the late ones.

Dutch Chocolate (Dach Choklet). Schreiner's, 1970. Single-color dark chocolate with a cherry tint, the perianth lobes are dense, silky, slightly corrugated. Height 90 cm. Medium early.

Margarita (Margarita). Schreiner's, 1968. Two-color, VDO - sparkling, lilac-white, NDO - velvety, wide, light purple with a melting light lilac border. The perianth lobes are dense, slightly corrugated. Height 95 cm. Medium late.

Navaho Blanket (Navajo Blanket). Schreiner's, 1978. Two-color, VDO - light lilac with a golden edge, sparkling, NDO - velvety, dark purple, almost horizontal, very dense, wide. Height 85 cm. Early - mid-early.

Starburst. Tompkins, 1967. Single-color copper-red, silky, slightly ruffled. Height PO cm. Medium-late.

Dotted Swiss (Dotted Swiss). Sass, 1956. Plicata (hatched or speckled border) is blue on a white background. The perianth lobes are dense, sparkling, slightly corrugated. Height 90 cm. Medium early.

Stepping Out. Schreiner's, 1964. Plicata inky purple on a white background. The perianth lobes are dense, sparkling, slightly corrugated. Height 95 cm. Medium late.

All these varieties grow well, do not require shelter for the winter, and are quite resistant to pests and diseases.