Homemade aircraft, drawings of machines and their brief descriptions built by amateur designers

PHOENIX M-5

A model that is equipped with two Vikhr-25 engines modified for air cooling. The design of the handle and the control circuit of the machine have no analogues in the world. Famous test pilots did not hide their delight, and even recommended its use on military fighters.
The take-off weight of the vehicle is two hundred and fifty-five kilograms, and the wing surface area is five point six square meters.

VOLKSPLAN

The model was designed by an American amateur designer, with pulling screw, which consists of the following nodes:

Shaft (1), made of duralumin pipe
fuselage spar (2), the material from which is made – pine
casing (3), made of plywood three millimeters thick
wing spars (4)
arc (5)
tank (6), which holds thirty liters of fuel
frame (7), made of plywood thirty millimeters thick
automobile engine (8), the power of which is sixty horsepower
hood (9), made of fiberglass
spring (10)
technological holes for installing wings (11)
fender braces (12)
its racks (13)
his braces (14)
bolt for installing the strut (15)

Specifications:

Take-off weight is three hundred and forty kilograms
wing area is nine point twenty nine square meters
speed - one hundred seventy kilometers per hour

This model passed certification tests and was found fit for use; moreover, it was possible to perform aerobatic maneuvers and even a “corkscrew” on it.

AGRO-02

Created by Tver designers. The main material used in its manufacture is plywood, canvas, pine and the domestic RMZ-640 engine. The take-off weight of which was two hundred thirty-five kilograms and the wing area was six point three square meters.

KhAI-40

Designed by students of the Kharkov Aviation Institute. The model has a beam fuselage.

SINGLE SEAT AIRCRAFT BIPLANES

SINGLE BEAM AIRCRAFT

Modern parents have the opportunity to buy any toys for their children. Understanding comes with experience. When the opportunity to have a lot arose, people began to especially appreciate homemade toys: wooden cars and airplanes sewn from doll scraps. Of course, all this can also be simply bought. But the warmth of the hands of parents who create toys for their children will certainly be transferred to an item made with their own hands. And how exciting the creative process is for adults!

Making models from plywood

Making models of airplanes from plywood with your own hands, and not just airplanes, was a popular activity for schoolchildren in Soviet times. Drawings and diagrams of models were published in the magazines " Young technician", and aircraft modeling circles were in almost every Palace of Pioneers. Every self-respecting teenager has made at least one model airplane out of plywood with a jigsaw. We invite you to remember your childhood and make an airplane out of plywood. The model of the legendary Pe-2 dive bomber was chosen as a prototype.

We offer for assembly a project published in the supplement to the magazine “Young Technician” for 1980 (No. 2), but you, of course, can choose any project that you like. The plane is made of plywood with a thickness of 1.5 to 4 mm; the main parts of the body, ribs, and tail are made from it. Of course, it is better to have special plywood for modeling.

Chronicle of a dive bomber

Pe-2 is a formidable fighting machine from the Second World War. The development of the aircraft began back in 1938 at the NKVD design bureau. The author of the project is aviation engineer V.M. Petlyakov. Serial production of the aircraft began in 1940 at the Kazan Aviation Plant.

The Pe-2 bomber, according to the NATO Buck classification, is the most mass-produced Soviet bomber. It is of the low-wing type and has a two-fin tail. The car has excellent aerodynamic qualities, the potential of which was not even fully exploited during the Great Patriotic War. The photos of the planes clearly show how outstanding this machine was.

• wingspan - 17.13 m;
• length – 12.66 m;
• engine power – 2x1100 hp;
• wing area – 40.5 m²;
• crew – 3 people: pilot, navigator, gunner;
• maximum speed – 540 km/h;
• high altitude ceiling – 8700 m;
• combat load - up to 1000 kg (in the bomb bay and on external sling);

The Pe-2 aircraft was produced from 1941 to 1945. It was finally withdrawn from service in 1954.

Where to start

Let's start making an airplane out of plywood with our own hands by constructing a working drawing of the parts. To make a drawing of an airplane from plywood, you can take graph paper. Using a 32x32 mm grid, draw out the body of the aircraft, the image of which is shown in photo 1. The drawing of the wing end rib is shown in photo 2. We draw this part using a 10x10 mm grid.

What and how to do

To make the fuselage you will need two plywood parts. Cutting out elements with a jigsaw must be done carefully. If there is no stationary jigsaw machine, then it is better to use a manual one. Between the plywood parts we will make a thick foam insert. A transparent cockpit canopy can be made from thin sheet plexiglass.

For stabilizers and elevators, you can take, if available, 4 mm thick linden plates or make them also from plywood. For the manufacture of spars and the leading and trailing edges of the wing, it is better to have lime slats with a thickness of 5x27, 15x15 and 5x20 mm. Cut out ribs from plywood 2 mm thick. The connection of the spar and ribs is shown in photo 3. Assemble and glue the wing elements. Attach the resulting wing parts to the body by carefully sawing the grooves. After this, you can attach the motor guns. If you install engines in the motor guns, then at the end of the work you can not only admire the result, but also send the model airplane into flight on a cord. Micromotors with a volume of up to 2.5 cm³ are suitable for this.

For the landing gear, use steel wire with a diameter of 4 mm. The photo shows the design of the racks. The chassis struts and the bracket for the wheel axle can be soldered from a tube. The wheel has a collapsible hub that rotates on a hub. The wheel itself can be machined from rubber. The tail wheel has a similar design.

We process the assembled airplane model with fine sandpaper. Cover the body and wings along the ribs with paper. Mica paper is suitable for these purposes. Mica paper (BDH paper) is made from cotton and has long fibers. Then coat everything with two coats of varnish. After drying, secure the remaining parts - machine guns, gas tanks, steering rod. Taking into account the layout of the aircraft, paint it with nitro paint.

Results

Cutting an airplane out of plywood, assembling it and setting it up for flight is a fascinating process, but it requires painstaking work. But the product will a wonderful gift a child, if, of course, you can give your creation to little hands that can in the blink of an eye turn a beautiful product into a pile of plywood chips.

Perhaps if you involve the boy himself in the work, then the production time will, of course, increase, but who knows, maybe you are raising a new aircraft designer?

I somehow decided to assemble my first home-made airplane, I was choosing between biplanes, I also wanted to make something like a katana, but I thought that all these airplanes could be bought anyway, but airplanes of the Second World War are sold only in aerobatics and then for an expensive price. from balsa. The choice fell on the Yak-3. Why? - I just liked it =)

When creating the aircraft, I partially relied on this article http://rc-aviation.ru/yak-3, there is also a link to the drawings.

Well, as always, the plane begins with printing out the drawing. The drawing that is in the archive, its left half is slightly larger than the right. The drawing itself was scaled in paint and printed on A4 using Excel. Of course, after the latest articles about the Yak-3, I realized that I’m not from the best drawings chose)

Then I decided to make a drawing 15cm larger; I no longer glued it completely together (due to the difference in the sizes of the left and right halves), but cut out the fuselage and wings separately and glued them together.

I tried the wing on a laminate backing, which they gave me for free at the building materials store. The spars are made of pine slats 2x0.5x400cm purchased at the same building materials market, it was too wide for the spar and I cut it in half with an ordinary stationery knife.

Next, I cut out the ribs and glued them to the spars using titanium, the spars themselves were glued together with some kind of "most the best glue for wood" - that's what the saleswoman in the store told me, and in fact it glues it tightly.

While the wings were being glued together, I assembled the fuselage. The assembly was not particularly difficult.

Further, due to the tense situation in my area with stationery stores, which are NOT there, and in the neighboring area I found only ONE store in the basement of some shopping center, when I had already finished assembling the aircraft. Actually, the wooden rulers were bought on the other side of Moscow, and the rubber bands, which are convenient for fixing some parts on the plane during gluing, were bought in Auchan =)

The next stage was the creation of a V-shaped wing, for this there is part K22 in the drawing, it was made from two rulers glued end-to-end.

Then I glued the wing: a synthetic backing for the laminate, and a ceiling on top. Previously, I marked the positions of the ribs on the substrate with a pen, and accidentally glued this side outward. I secured everything with tape and left it to stick together for a day.

While the wing was drying, I glued it together tail unit ceilings made of two layers. The fixed part of the rudder is fixed with a ruler, the elevator is also strengthened with a ruler, and the movable part with a pine strip. I made the loops from pieces of a ruler and a thread wound in a figure of eight between two pieces and secured with a moment; the thread itself is very strong, so I didn’t wind it too much. The hinges were secured with titanium.

Then, when the wing was dry, I glued plugs on the front and back - K11 on the back and K12 on the front, then I glued pieces of foam plastic on the front and ground them down to the desired shape. I glued a pin in front to attach the wing to the fuselage. Also in the photo you can see an air intake made of polystyrene foam, with which the wing is secured with a screw.

I sewed up the top of the fuselage in front - penoplex, and the rest - ceiling tiles, but how well it worked out for me, I cut off the top and decided to make it from penoplex. Motor frame made of three layers of ceilings + ruler.

The rods are made from paper clips, with .

The wing fastening inside the fuselage looks like this - 2 layers of ceiling, on top there is a ruler with a hole for a screw, and on the ruler there is another ruler with a nut glued in for a moment.

The servos are mounted from one ruler.

Each aileron is supported by three hinges made from a plastic bottle + a hole punch; holes are cut in the wing to secure the hinges from inside the wing. The cabin is made of polystyrene foam - I glued a blank to the fuselage, cut it, sanded it and it's done. At the same time I tried on the tail unit. Even at that time, the rods for the tail were made from strings for the cornice, the guides were made from the rod of a gel pen glued into the frames, for some reason I didn’t take a photo.

In all the articles here, I haven’t seen anyone make a Yak-3 with a landing gear, and it was fundamental that the first takeoff would be from its own wheels =) The landing gear is made of knitting needles + hot melt glue + pine slats, also cut out in the wing a piece of substrate from the spar.

The racks turned out to be too long, then they had to be shortened. At the back there is simply a crutch made of string for the cornice fixed in a piece of pine batten. The exhaust pipes are made from a spray tube, the fairing is made from a piece of foam. White spots on the wing are an unsuccessful attempt to repair chips and cracks with napkins and pva.

From the ceiling I cut out fairings between the wing and fuselage. On the drawing -T46

Then there was a need to repair seams and chips in the penoplex, I looked for answers on the Internet, and eventually created a topic http://rc-aviation.ru/forum/topic?id=6496. I decided to close it up polyurethane foam, it seems like I managed to do everything in 2 approaches, but the foam compacted with my fingers is too dense, heavy and sands very poorly. By the way, I redesigned the fairings on the pipes, making them a little longer.

The foam covered large cracks, but there were a lot of voids on the surface, and in the end I settled on sealant, spread it on a spatula and walked around in the places where there were cracks, carefully covered everything and left it to dry, I also ground down the cabin a little (it turned out to be a bit big). I remade the fairings on the pipes again, making them even longer =). This is what the plane looks like before painting:

Painted the plane acrylic paints"Star". Total it took:

No. 12 red acrylic - a third of the jar

No. 13 light blue acrylic - 2 jars

No. 21 green aviation interior acrylic - 2 jars

No. 55 protective acrylic - 2 jars

No. 02 gray-blue acrylic - third of the jar

No. 17 white master acrylic - a third of the jar

No. 20 black master acrylic - ~5 drops

No. 07 steel master acrylic - ~5 drops

Before painting, of course, it was necessary to cover the plane with foam paper...

The first layer turned out pale, streaky and sloppy.

I painted the cabin with blue-gray acrylic + a few drops of white acrylic. I couldn’t resist and drew stars - I drew a star in Word, printed it out, cut it out and then drew it like a stencil. I painted the white stripe by hand with a small brush. As a result, after applying the second layer of paint, I painted over all the stars.

Second coat of paint:

The pipes are painted steel, the texture of the cabin is complemented with black.

The wheels are made of three layers of ceiling, turned on a drill. I painted the wheels black and steel in the center using the same drill at low speeds.

After installing the electronics, I realized that I had not taken into account the center of gravity and placed the wheels a little behind... Because of this, the plane was leaning over the engine.

I recently found out about the efly.ru store, went to investigate, in the store I found carbon rods and slats at a reasonable price, but my eye fell on piano strings, I thought I’d go for new landing gear. I bought one string, and at the same time a set of magnets for attaching the cabin. I twisted the posts out of string, coated them with titanium under the posts and sealed them with tape (bad idea). Traces from ballpoint pen, for some reason they didn’t want to paint over it in any way.

To make it more realistic, I made an antenna. I glued a spring from an umbrella to the back of the cabin and screwed it onto the rudder small screw. I took a braided fishing line, made a loop on one side, put it on a self-tapping screw, and tied the other end to a spring. I made the fishing line a little shorter than the distance from the spring to the screw, and when the cabin falls into place, the spring tightens the fishing line.

I forgot about the slope, and out of habit from my other planes, I immediately take off with full throttle, but here I have to smoothly with the acceleration =)

Regulator - 30A of unknown origin

Battery - 1800mah 3s

Who might be interested:

The flight box purchased from OBI contains the transmitter, tools, propellers, batteries and other small items. A few small improvements - rubber bands on the bottom to secure batteries, rubber bands to hold the propellers, and another rubber band for tools. Everything was glued with hot glue.

Some photos show a Cessna Corvalis with a 1500mm wingspan - my very first plane, thanks to which I almost gave up aircraft modeling, so it hung in the village for 2 years without action, so I decided to give it a second life =) By the way, the cooker for the Yak-3 was borrowed from him.

And finally, photos of all my planes.

After the Cessna, I trained to fly on an indestructible model for a beginner. In the comments to it, I expressed my opinion - anyone interested can read it =)

Thank you all for your attention!

Modern toy stores are simply bursting with a large assortment of all kinds of cars, bears, construction sets and much more. But remember the old days, when there was no such abundance. Then, in clubs and craft classes, we were taught to make toys ourselves, and the main material for creativity was plywood for modeling. It is precisely these crafts that we will tell you about today.

Preparation of material and tools

Like any business, and making a toy for a child is a very important step, you must first prepare both the material and the tools that will be needed in constructing the model.

If you are missing something from the list above, buy these missing items urgently.

1. Hand jigsaw for wood, an electric tool in our case is not our help; we do everything manually.
2. Model plywood, usually the thickness of the material is three and seven millimeters, otherwise it is also called three-layer and seven-layer, respectively.
3. Pencil, ruler.
4. Sandpaper and square file for processing aircraft spare parts.
5. PVA glue or any other, which is designed for gluing wood.
6. Great patience and desire to bring joy to the child.

We need to start our design, of course, by marking out all the parts of the future airplane, namely: the fuselage, wings and stabilizer. You can first draw a drawing on paper, and then transfer it to the plywood itself, or you can immediately draw the details on the plywood, whichever is more convenient for you.

Since our model of an airplane made of plywood was invented on the fly, there are no exact dimensions and, accordingly, a template or drawing. But as an example, we will take a certain size of the wingspan, and we will build on it when assembling our aircraft.

Let's make the wingspan thirty centimeters long, this is perhaps the most best option, for those who find such a plane small, can increase the size of the wings and thereby make the plane a little larger.

Cutting out blanks with a jigsaw

As you can see in the photo, all the components can be easily drawn by hand, there is nothing complicated here. Let's start with the fuselage, the length of which can be made ten millimeters larger than the wings. Just draw the body itself by hand as shown in the picture.

Immediately on the fuselage body make tenon joints for attaching wings. Due to such connections, prefabricated plywood models are quite strong and can be easily connected with glue, so be sure to use them.

Let's move on to the wings, as we have already decided, the wings will be thirty centimeters long, respectively eight to ten centimeters wide. Remember the main thing, the lower wing should be no more than ten millimeters shorter than the upper one.

All that remains is to draw the struts to support the wings, the rear flap, and the stabilizer. When everything is ready, you can start cutting out the parts with a jigsaw. Carefully cut out all the parts for the plane based on the outlines you drew. Don't be discouraged if there are some unevenness somewhere, in any case you try and you will succeed.

Advice!
The cut parts must be sanded with sandpaper immediately before assembling the model.
Once you assemble the plane, it will be inconvenient to polish it, as the model can be damaged.

Assembling our plane

As a rule, modeling from plywood is an interesting and meticulous task, and if you have already prepared tenon joints on the fuselage, now you need to make grooves on the wings for fastening to the body and for the struts supporting the wings.

Feel free to use a file while working and adjust the connections as accurately as possible. Start assembly by installing the stabilizer, which you will glue to the tail of the toy.

At the next stage, our instructions recommend installing the wings in their place. To do this, apply glue to the joint and install the upper wing. Having turned the model over, we install racks to support the wings, and also pre-apply glue to the attachment points.

There is very little left and our homemade plane will be ready, we install the lower wing and our assembled structure. Also carefully coat all the butt joints on the assembled model with glue and place the plane on the shelf, allowing the glue to dry completely.

It’s not at all difficult to make such an airplane, of course it’s not ideal option and if you want, then you can look for other drawings of prefabricated plywood models, because the flight of fancy and creative ideas does not end there. Let's take a look at what other crafts can be made from wood.

We continue to make homemade products

Well, let's not stop halfway, but let's try to please the child some more, with some kind of plywood craft. If you focus on a boy, then it is possible that you want to know how to make a tank out of plywood? Quite a logical question, let's try to answer it.

As an example, we invite you to consider our small model of a plywood tank, which is easy to manufacture and, when assembled, looks no worse than tanks made from plastic construction sets.

Let's look at all the design stages in order, and start with the materials that are needed for modeling.

• Plywood is, of course, the basis of our model; in this case, the thickness of the plywood should be two to three millimeters. It will be very convenient to work with such plywood when cutting out parts and then assembling them.
• Copy paper, with its help we will transfer the drawing to the workpiece.
• A set of needle files will help in processing tenon joints when assembling the model.
• A hand jigsaw and files for it, as for the files, prepare several of them, usually when cutting a model from plywood with your own hands, the files tend to break.
• Glue, preferably using PVA, it interacts well with wood and becomes discolored after drying.
• Sandpaper and clear varnish.

Advice!
It is recommended that before starting to outline the details of the tank, the prepared material, plywood, should be cleaned with emery cloth and the surface made smooth.
This approach will ensure more accurate copying of the drawing onto the plywood surface.

Copy the drawing and cut out the elements of the tank

The next step in constructing a tank model will be transferring all the component parts of the model from paper to plywood. In the modeling process, namely answering the question of how to make a tank from plywood, model drawings play a very important role.

Tank model drawing. Part 1

Now that you have a ready-made template of parts in your hands, you need to transfer it to plywood using carbon paper. Outlining the details is best done with a simple pencil or use an empty ballpoint pen.

Do not forget about the numbering of parts; when copying, also transfer them to the material. In the future, when assembling, it will be easier for you to navigate the details. The rules of assembly are the joining of parts in sequence according to numbers: number one is connected to number one, number two is connected to number two, respectively.

When everything is ready and the drawing has been transferred to plywood, you can start cutting out the parts. We won’t teach you how to use a jigsaw, but we will give you a recommendation. After you cut out all the parts, be sure to sand them down, this way you will smooth out all the corners left by the jigsaw and ultimately get a neat model.

Now, in order of numerical designation, we begin to assemble our model of the tank; after joining, we coat all connections with glue and let them dry a little. After assembling all the components, you should have a tank model that is almost ready.

As in any other matter, it remains to put an end to it, and our point is to treat the assembled model with colorless varnish. Believe me, the price is homemade toy is not comparable to the joy of your baby who will play with it, you can be sure that you did not waste your time making such a model.

What else can be made from plywood

In fact, modeling has enormous potential for creativity; plywood as a material is ideal for these purposes. Various plywood car models are very popular; as a rule, they are easy to manufacture and are in demand among children.

Here, for example, is a simple model of a truck; its manufacture will require very little material, and it will not take much time to assemble. If we take into account that everything necessary tools you already have it, you can do it without special effort make a craft like this.

In order to make such a truck, it is enough to transfer the template and all the spare parts of the car onto the material. Then collect all the parts and connect them together. These drawings of plywood car models have a common base and on this base you can assemble various options trucks.

If you get creative, you can make a closed van instead of a body, or cut out a fire escape, fantasize and bring your ideas to life together with your child.

Making a boomerang yourself

Still very interesting toy is a boomerang. In fact, this toy was considered a throwing weapon in the old days, but today both adults and children really enjoy the flight of this unique invention and return it to the place from which it was launched.

Let's figure out how to make a boomerang from plywood, while respecting all its aerodynamic properties. As a rule, first of all we need a material, in our case it will be plywood ten millimeters thick, and a template.

For the template, you will need a sheet of paper measuring fifty by sixty centimeters, and apply a grid with a mesh size of fifty millimeters on this sheet of paper. Afterwards we draw the boomerang itself on the template, try to do this as shown in the figure below.

After the boomerang template is ready, we cut it along the contour and transfer it to our plywood blank and follow a simple procedure:

1. We trace the contours of the template with a pencil on the workpiece.
2. By using hand jigsaw cut out the boomerang according to the contours.
3. The resulting boomerang must be further processed and given aerodynamic properties.
4. We clamp the boomerang blank with a clamp and with a small plane from the center to the edges we remove the excess wood covering.
5. As a result of processing, we should get a uniform transition from the edge to the center. The central part should be ten millimeters thick, the edges of the boomerang six millimeters. Try to make the transition smooth and not jagged.
6. The next step is to be thorough. The boomerang must be perfectly smooth, this directly affects the aerodynamics.
7. Now the toy needs to be opened with varnish and, after drying, painted in bright color. Typically, bright colors will make the toy easy to spot in flight or when searching after it lands.

Information!
The boomerang by its nature belongs to the category dangerous toys, so be careful when starting to avoid harming yourself and those around you.
It is advisable to launch in the field, in places where there are not crowded people and no residential buildings.

In conclusion

Very often, lovers of fakes are interested in: how to make a balalaika from plywood and is it possible to do this in practice at home? We hasten to please you, although such a product is considered complex musical instrument, it can still be made at home. But we will talk about this complex process another time.

In the video presented in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

The plane can become a toy or a blank for further painting or decoupage. The wings and propeller are made from thin wood from vegetable crates, and the fuselage is made from 6 mm plywood. It would be better if everything was made of wood, but I was afraid that the openwork cabin would be too fragile

In profile. The wings and wheel struts are inserted into tight slots in the fuselage and could be held in place by a tight fit. But for strength, PVA wood glue was also used. Small smudges of glue are cut off after drying with a sharp knife. If they are serious, it is better to wash them immediately with a damp cloth, then the varnish in this case may become stained from glue residues.

All parts are carefully sanded before assembly. The collected ones are more difficult to skin.

The axles of the propeller and wheels are studs, although this is not best choice. It was worth rounding the cap a little and sanding it. The screw and wheels are drilled to ensure free rotation. In the fuselage and landing gear there are holes for the axles of a smaller diameter so that the nails would hold tightly, but would not split the plywood into layers.

The propeller blades are cut at an angle, like fan blades. This can be seen in the last photo, a top view of the plane. So if you blow on it, the propeller will start to rotate and it seems that the airplane is about to take off!

Here I give my drawing for cutting out an airplane. 1 cell = 10mm
The screw is made from a plank 8mm thick, the rest can be made from plywood 4-6mm