Rules for arranging the first floor floor on wooden beams. Insulating the floor in a wooden house: types of insulation and work order Laying the floor on a concrete surface

In private houses and apartments, a popular way of arranging the floor is considered to be a structure on logs. This method is quite universal, it allows you to insulate and level the base. However, its design can vary greatly depending on the floor, type of building ( private house or apartment), the presence of a warm basement, etc.

In this article we will look at several options for laying a wooden floor cake.

Floor frame

First, let's study the main constituent elements and main rules:

The underground space from the pads to the floorboard must be at least 1 cm (and no more than 25 cm for floors on the ground). This is necessary for good ventilation inside the frame.
Lags- These are transverse bars that serve as the basis for further cladding with boards. They can rest on beams, concrete slab, posts and even on the ground (when using pads).

Pay attention! According to GOST 8486-86, unplaned boards treated with an antiseptic from coniferous or hardwood wood other than linden or poplar. Wood moisture content should not exceed 18%.

The width of the logs when laid on a slab should be in the range of 80-100 mm and 100-120 mm when laid on posts or beams. The thickness when laid on a slab should be 25-40 mm, and when laid on posts - 40-50 mm.
Beams- these are horizontally laid structural elements, which perform load-bearing functions. They are supported at least at two points on load-bearing walls.
Columns(linings) are used to level the base. For logs with a thickness of 40-50 mm, linings are installed every 80-110 cm.
The pitch of laying the logs depends on the thickness of the sheathing. For example, if you use the thinnest floorboard 21 mm, then the step of laying the logs should not exceed 30 cm.
It is best to use a thicker floorboard 35 mm, and make a standard laying step of 60 cm, especially if you are going to insulate the base. This way you won't have to cut the insulation to width.

Installation technology

If the base is uneven, then it can be leveled using a backfill of sand with a moisture content of less than 4%.

Installation of logs

Most often, logs are installed perpendicular to the light from the window, so that the boards then lie along it. This will make the gaps between the boards less visible.
First of all, install the outer joists with a gap of 2-3 cm from the wall. Then intermediate logs are installed.
The logs are laid on the base without rigid fastening. Their evenness is checked using a level and a 2-meter rod. They all must be in the same plane. In this case, leveling with wooden pads or wedges is not recommended, but adding sand under the waterproofing is acceptable.
To increase the rigidity of the structure, the logs are connected to each other by wooden jumpers, which are attached to galvanized 4*4 corners.

Pay attention! It is imperative to install an additional lag in doorway so that it protrudes into each room by at least 5 cm. This is necessary so that the boards are made of adjacent rooms rested on one foundation.

Insulating layers

If laying occurs on a concrete slab, it is imperative to use waterproofing layer, especially if the screed is new. For this purpose, roofing felt, polyethylene film, and backfill types of waterproofing are used. They are laid in a continuous sealed layer, with an overlap of 15 cm on the walls.
To increase sound insulation and reduce the transmission of vibration noise through floors, it is recommended to install logs on soundproofing pads. You can make them yourself from polyurethane, cork backing, soft fiberboard.
To insulate the floor, a layer of mineral wool or expanded polystyrene can be laid between the joists. Mineral wool also provides a soundproofing effect. Unlike concrete screed, it is not necessary to use high-density insulation here, since there will be no load on them.
For additional protection against noise transmission through the structure, before installing the sheathing, a cork backing can be laid on the joists.
If you use mineral wool, then it must be covered on top with a vapor barrier membrane, such as glassine. This is necessary to protect against moisture ingress and condensation removal. It is secured as the boards are laid on the joists using a stapler.
After installation there is no vapor barrier left under the boards ventilation gap, therefore, it is recommended to screw a counter-lattice made of boards at least 1 cm thick onto the logs on top of it. batten.

Finished flooring

As the last layer, most often, its price is approximately 13,500 rubles per cubic meter.
To save money, you can use an unplaned board, but you will have to trim and process it yourself.
Thick plywood or OSB sheets are also a good alternative. For floor coverings, their thickness should be 15-21 mm.

The simplest and most common way is to install wooden logs on a concrete base in an apartment.

The main feature of a wooden floor in an apartment is the absence of an additional subfloor. Here a concrete slab is used instead.
The base of the floor in apartments is warm, so insulation is rarely used here, but sound insulation is required.

Pie of wooden floor for an apartment with sound insulation:

Concrete slab leveled with sand;
Waterproofing;
Noise-reducing pads;
Wooden logs;
Mineral wool;
Vapor barrier;
Counter grille;
Sheathing made of boards or plywood;

First floor in a private house

Consider the following design example for the first floor in wooden house. It does not use logs, and the sheathing is installed directly on the floor beams. This allows you to save ceiling height, makes the scheme simpler and cheaper.

The floor pie of the first floor in a wooden house is shown in the photo.

This scheme is suitable for the first floor above a warm basement, and for floors between the 1st and 2nd floors.

At the very bottom there are cranial blocks made of 100*25 mm boards. They are screwed to the beams from the bottom. They are needed to construct a subfloor for laying insulation.
Then there are load-bearing beams 200*50 mm.
The subfloor made of 100*25 mm boards is laid on cranial blocks.
A windproof film (vapor barrier membrane) is laid on the subfloor.
Then insulation is placed between the joists. In a specific example, 2 layers of Rockwool Light Butts mineral wool are used, laid staggered, with a total layer thickness of 20 cm.
The top of the insulation is covered with a vapor barrier.
Then the sheathing of the joists is done. In this case, FSF plywood with a thickness of 21 mm is used. It is laid with offset joints.
Additionally, it is recommended to add counter battens to this scheme to create a gap under the plywood.

A floor pie in a wooden house to cover the second floor can be made as follows:

At the very bottom of the diagram there is a 5*4 cm beam. It is needed to support fiberboard sheets, give additional rigidity to the frame and for decorative purposes.
Then comes the vapor barrier. It is not necessary to use it here, but it will additionally protect the first floor from mineral wool dust. If the 1st and 2nd floors are heated, then it can be replaced with a windproof layer, but in wet rooms a vapor barrier membrane must be used.
Then there are fiberboard sheets to create a subfloor for laying insulation. They are attached construction stapler from below to the beams.
Mineral wool 15 cm thick is laid on the fiberboard. It is mainly needed for sound insulation.
The insulation is covered with a windscreen on top to prevent dust from penetrating into the room.
A continuous sheathing of 150*25 mm boards is mounted on the windbreak.
Sheets of FC or FSF plywood, 9-12 mm thick, are attached to the boards. You can also not make a continuous sheathing, but, as in the previous version, use 21 mm plywood.

Ground floor floor

If you do not have a warm base, then install the floor on the first floor on the ground using stands made of posts.

To make such a floor, you first need to remove the plant and soft layers of soil. This can be done locally at the installation site of the posts, or throughout the entire area inside strip foundation.
Then a dry layer of soil of at least 15-20 cm is poured and thoroughly compacted.
The resulting base needs to be moistened and crushed stone or gravel pressed into it a few centimeters on top.
Then the sand-crushed stone mixture is backfilled and, after compaction, red brick columns are laid on it to support the floor beams. They are laid in increments of 70-100 cm, several bricks high. The top and bottom of the posts must be protected with a layer of roofing felt waterproofing.
It is advisable to lay a layer of waterproofing between the columns so that moisture from below does not affect the beams.
Beams are laid in the center of the columns. Their height should be at least 2 cm greater than the height of the subfloor boards and insulation, so that an air gap remains.
The subfloor boards are laid on posts along the edges.
Then comes a layer of vapor barrier.
Insulation (mineral wool or extruded polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam) is placed between the beams.
A finished flooring board is attached to the beams on top.

Conclusion

We looked at the main ways to install wooden floors in private houses and apartments. In terms of price, this design is almost equivalent to pouring a cement-sand screed, but warmer and less labor-intensive. It will be much easier to find specialists for installing a wooden floor than for pouring screed.

The video instructions in this article will show you the entire installation process in practice:

The installation of a wooden floor is recognized as the most time-consuming, expensive and complex, since any structure made of wood should be protected from direct contact with concrete. Otherwise, the floors will become unusable in a short time and will need to be replaced. Using some impregnations, you can protect the wood from rotting. Chemical methods protections are very effective and prevent the process of material deterioration. However, a wooden structure impregnated with chemicals cannot be considered environmentally friendly. Considering that wood is chosen precisely because of this indicator, few people use chemistry. When laying on concrete, waterproofing is required over the entire area between layers. fasten wood covering should use metal squares to create a gap between the bases and the joists.

The subfloor denotes certain foundations that form perfect surface for laying a finished floor. It is created to ensure the distribution of loads directed at the floor covering.

In wooden buildings, subfloors are made using three methods:

wooden on joists;
pouring concrete;
use of plywood flooring.

Wooden floors on joists

In a wooden house, the installation of a subfloor is no different from the installation of similar structures in a monolithic or brick structure. The only peculiarity is how the logs are attached:

There is no need to attach logs to various wooden boards. Best option- strengthen them to the base or foundation grillage, retreating a couple of centimeters from all walls. The distance from the support must be at least 11cm on all sides of the log.
Before laying the base, you should lay the bottom trim, which is made from a long and thin board. Logs are attached to it using metal anchors. There is no need to rigidly strengthen them with strapping. You just need to fix them so that they do not wobble while working on another layer of the floor. This design will have a distance of several centimeters from the walls.

If the distance is less than 11 cm, then it is better to crash into the walls. But before this, it is necessary to make the initial laying on the base, then you should attach a choice of timber or logs. You must first measure the contour of the cutting site, then cut out the dimensions required for the groove in the wood, which will be required for the supporting function.

Important: It is recommended to add about 2 cm to further expand the joist. It must be remembered that the laying of the logs and beams is done on the grillage or plinth when the installation of the waterproofing layer is completed.

The standard steps between two logs are 40-60 cm. However, when choosing, great emphasis is placed on the width of the insulation and the required load. Based on this, a choice is made of the lag section and the effective load. At small sizes the sections should be approximately 15x10, for heavy loads - 15x20, for medium loads - 15x15 centimeters. In case of excessive load, if the beams have a small cross-section, then it is advisable to provide cross-sectional parameters of 30x40cm.

Installation of subfloors on joists

When the installation is done, you will need to do standard installation. It is performed in several stages:

It is necessary to secure the cranial bars. They have small sections (approximately 4 by 4), they are fixed in the lower parts of the joists on the side. Professionals recommend replacing the cranial block with boards that will be wider than the joists. They will need to be nailed either along or below the joists.
The boards should be laid. They need to be placed on the cranial block, but not fastened. Considering that their main task is to fix the insulation, they are left to lie freely.
Waterproofing. Lay it on the subfloor. This is done to avoid additional load. The waterproofing is laid so that it extends onto the wall at the level where the floor will be in the future. It is recommended to use film insulation and use a stapler for fastening.
Thermal insulation - laid on waterproofing.
Vapor barrier. They are laid in the same way as waterproofing.
Ventilation. To create a ventilation gap, you only need to punch counter-battens along the joist on top of the vapor barrier.
Coating. At the final stage it is proposed to use chipboard sheets, as well as boards. The logs must be separated from the wall by a 2cm gap. Insulation will then be placed in them.

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer house design services. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Video description

Learn more about floor insulation in a wooden house in this video:

Plywood subfloors

The floor in a wooden house is one of the most reliable options, because it has high hardness. Plywood is also used for floor coverings. If it is well sanded and varnished, it looks expensive. But in most cases, it is then covered with linoleum or parquet flooring.

Plywood can be laid in one of two options:

On a cement base. You will need to provide a horizontal and level base or use leveling posts.
Attach to joists. The main thing is to position the logs correctly to ensure that the joint of the sheet falls on them. The joists must be positioned so that the top surface provides a straight line. The insulation and sound insulation are then removed from them.

Need to know! When laying plywood in 1 layer, it must be at least 15mm thick, if there are 2 layers - minimum thickness must be at least 9mm.

Before final installation begins, all debris and dust should be removed from the base. If possible, you should also do priming - primer treatment. The plywood must be secured with glue, and the head of the screw must be recessed.

Concrete floor

Like a rough and finishing floor in a wooden house, concrete option occurs less frequently than others. A concrete floor has one significant drawback - it is very cold. This problem can be solved using thermal insulation material.

The advantages include durability and reliability. Compared to analogues, it is smoother and more durable. Concrete floors in a wooden house are also chosen because they are better protected from destruction.

In a wooden house, a concrete floor is made in 11 stages:

Lay along the joists.
Lay on the ground.
A concrete screed is made on top of the wooden floor.
The floor horizon is set with marks (it is recommended to pull the cord for accuracy).
Colas less than 11 cm should be driven into the ground so that gravel can be poured over them. After this, it should be compacted and the pegs removed.
Next, sand is poured.
Then a large polyethylene film is laid, creating an overlap on the walls. It will act as waterproofing.
Using slats, it is necessary to divide the room into equal strips. The width of each should be about 1 meter. The height of the installed rail must be equal to the height of the cord. Next, concrete is poured onto the prepared surface.
Concrete is leveled along the slats.
Next, the concrete should be covered with film and left to harden for several weeks. To avoid cracking, it is necessary to occasionally spray the mass with water.
After the expiration of the term, it is covered with a screed of cement and sand.

Materials for processing logs

Some factors external environment, for example, dampness, should not affect the logs. Therefore, when installing floors in a wooden house, they should be protected from certain factors.

Bioprotective compounds

A preparation with a bioprotective composition protects wood from mold, rot, blue discoloration, beetles and fungi. One application of such products will provide protection for 27-32 years. You can buy them in the form of a concentrate. Sometimes a pigmenting substance is added to the composition, which makes it possible to control the quality of application.

Bioprotective compounds are praised for:

environmental friendliness;
slight odor;
no allergens.

The preparations must be applied before the installation of the floor in a wooden house begins.

Leave-in antiseptic

Great option if in the city high humidity. It is also indicated for use in places with high levels of precipitation, temperature changes, in baths and saunas. Working with antiseptics is simple and not too time consuming. Approximate consumption per 1 meter is about 400 grams. Surface application can be achieved after 4 layers. After the work is completed, the color of the wood will become pistachio.

Traditional methods

Folk remedies for treating lags:

Transformer oil. Thanks to deep penetration in wood structure and embalming, this product perfectly protects the material.
Resin. Birch resin will help against beetles, fungi and rotting. Its only drawback is its vulnerability to fire.
Motor oil. Pros - low price, good protection. Cons – the smell is too strong, sometimes it interferes for several months.

Before starting work, you should understand the device diagram wooden floors, which consist of 4 “layers”:

Rough coating.
Thermal and waterproofing layers.
Finish floor.
Finishing.

Therefore, when wondering what to make a finished floor from in a wooden house, you must first complete the first 2 steps mentioned above and start working on the finished floor.

To make a finished floor yourself, you need to buy milled boards.

Need to know! The finished floor in a wooden house is laid 5 centimeters above the subfloor.

The floor structure of the first floor in a wooden house is erected in 3 stages:

The logs are laid so that the boards can be laid perpendicular to them. The smallest thickness is 25mm.
The board needs to be secured closer to the wall.
Next, you should use a hammer and a block so that the boards are as close to each other as possible. Using a self-tapping screw, each joist is fastened through a ridge.

Important! If you plan to change the floor in the future, you need to use a simple fastening option - all floorboards should be secured from above to the joists using self-tapping screws.

Conclusion

The old technology of installing wooden floors on joists is still used today, because this design is as warm as possible. The only difference is that now they are increasingly used for such floors. modern materials, which made it possible to significantly improve the thermal insulation qualities of the ceiling. After the device load-bearing frame With such a floor, owners are wondering how to cover a wooden floor. Usually in such structures a plank covering is used as a finishing or subfloor. We will consider two options for installing a wooden floor in a country house or country house.

Installation of a wooden floor on the first floor in a house

The pitch of the logs for floorboards depends on the size of the span of the room and the thickness of the solid boards used. The cross-section of the timber also depends on these characteristics. The smaller the thickness of the floorboard, the smaller the distance:

for reeling thickness 0.02 m the pitch is 30 cm (used for two and three meter spans, section 0.11x0.06 m or 0.5x0.08 m);
for floorboards 24-30 mm high the pitch is taken to be 40-50 cm (used for four and five meter spans, section height 180 mm, width 0.1 m or 0.2x0.15 m);
coating thickness 35-40 mm requires laying logs in increments of 60 cm to 0.7 m (suitable for a span of 6 m, beam cross-section 0.22x0.18 m);
boards 45-50 mm - lag pitch 80-100 cm (layed over a span of more than 6 m, cross-section 22x18 cm).

The floor plan of the first floor on wooden beams looks like this:

wooden beams (logs) can rest on the edges of the concrete base of the house or rest on posts;
a subfloor is attached to the lower edge of the joists;
then follows a layer of waterproofing;
above it in the construction of the pie there is material for thermal insulation;
there is a vapor barrier film on top of the insulation;
then wooden flooring made of boards.

Laying the floor on joists

We figured out what a floor pie looks like in a wooden house. Now it’s the turn to tell how the plank floor is laid along the joists.
Our step-by-step instructions:

Regardless of what the timber is laid on (on concrete base or on brick pillars), a waterproofing of two layers of roofing material must be laid underneath it.
Next, they begin to install the two outer logs at opposite walls. They are leveled. A cord is pulled between them, along which intermediate logs are aligned and installed. We attach the beam to the base using anchors.
The easiest way to construct a subfloor is to attach cranial (support) bars to the bottom of the side edges of the joists. To do this, take a beam with a cross-section of 0.05x0.05 m and screw it with self-tapping screws to the sides of the log below.
Now it's time to lay the subfloor. To do this, we lay a 0.025 m thick board, plywood or OSB on the cranial bars and screw them to the bars with self-tapping screws.

Attention! To protect everything from rotting wooden elements must be treated with antiseptics. To protect the material from fire, wooden blocks and boards must be impregnated with fire retardants. This treatment is carried out before laying the elements.

The resulting structure in cross-section has the shape of the letter “W”. Now it’s time to lay a layer of waterproofing material. Usually, special waterproof membranes are used for this, which are laid along subfloor, going around the logs. The strips are laid out with an overlap of 150 mm. All joints are taped with tape.
When arranging the floor in a wooden house, a thermal insulation layer is used (on the first floor) and soundproofing material(on the second floor). To do this, insulation boards are placed in the gaps between the joists. Suitable for these purposes mineral wool slabs, basalt wool, polystyrene foam, expanded polystyrene, etc. Usually several layers of insulation are laid to the height of the logs.
After this, a vapor barrier is spread over the entire surface. As a rule, special vapor barrier membranes are used, but ordinary polyethylene film is also suitable. The material is laid with an overlap, and the joints are taped.
Next, you can attach the plank floor. But it is laid with the selected finishing floor covering or used as a finished floor.

Installation of interfloor wooden floors

The wood-beamed floor of the second floor looks slightly different than the structure on the first floor. In this case, it is very important not to insulate, but to soundproof the ceiling so that sounds and footsteps are not heard in the rooms on the ground floor.

The cross-section of the beams between the 1st and second floors depends on the span being covered:

for a span of 2.2 m, beams with a section of 75 by 100 mm are used;
for a span of 3.2 m, elements with a height of 0.2 m and a width of 0.125 m are taken, but in some cases products with a cross-section of 100x75 mm are suitable;
for a five-meter span, beams with a section of 225x150 mm are used.

The pitch of the beams is selected depending on the thickness of the floorboard according to the scheme described above.

Important! For attic floor beams are laid with the same spacing, but use elements of a smaller cross-section.

When installing an interfloor floor, the floor pie along wooden beams looks like this (from bottom to top):

first comes the first floor ceiling made of gypsum plasterboard;
lathing for fastening drywall;
floor beams;
vapor barrier layer;
sound insulation made of mineral wool;
solid wood finish finish.

Do not forget to treat all wooden elements with compounds to protect against rotting and burning before laying.

Installation of interfloor ceilings

Work on the installation of interfloor ceilings is carried out in the following order:

The beams are laid during the construction phase of the house. Elements are stacked with a certain step. The method of fastening depends on the material of the walls. When laying on brick, concrete walls or enclosing structures made of foam concrete blocks, beams are insulated from the walls by means of two layers of roofing material. This way they will be reliably protected from moisture and rot. If there is a need for this, work is carried out to strengthen the second floor joists.
Next, fix to the underside of the beams wooden sheathing for fixing the ceiling of the first floor. For the sheathing, a beam with a cross section of 5x5 cm is used. It is fastened in increments of 50 cm. wooden frame hem the ceiling of the underlying floor.
A vapor barrier material is placed in the space between the beams and stapled to the wooden elements.
Next, a sound insulator is placed in the gaps between the beams. Soundproofing the floor in a wooden house should be effective and lightweight so as not to overload the floor. A mineral wool board is ideal for these purposes.
After this, they begin laying the floor boards.

Methods for fixing floor boards to the floor

Since solid board laid on logs or timber between floors, the following methods of fixing it are suitable:

using clamps (special clamps);
on screws or nails.

Fastening with nails is performed as follows:

The first element is laid along the wall. The tenon element is directed towards the wall.
For fixing into a groove a nail is carefully driven in at the place where the board rests on the joist or beam. The fastening element is driven in at an angle of 45°. The head of the fastener should not stick out in the groove. It is recessed deep into the body of the board so that it does not interfere with the installation of the tenon of the next floorboard.
Next element is inserted with a tenon into the groove of the previous one. Fixation with nails is performed in the same way.
Last board cut to the required width and nailed to the joists through the front surface. The location for installing the fasteners is chosen as close to the wall as possible so that after installing the baseboard, the nail head is completely hidden.

Fastening with self-tapping screws or wood screws is carried out in the same way. Fixation with clamps allows you to avoid damaging the body of the board. The fastener is inserted into the groove of the floorboard, and its lower part is screwed to the joist with a self-tapping screw. The last board in the room is trimmed and nailed through the face in the same way as described above.

How to calculate the amount of wood for a floor?

The covering of the first floor must be carried out in compliance with technologies for “warm” floors. Fortunately, on wooden beams it is possible, without stealing the treasured heights of the ceilings of the room, to make the floor pie insulated.

Plank floors

Advantages and disadvantages of wooden structures

Wooden structures are used in private houses made of wood and stone of all types. This versatility is not inherent concrete structures. In addition, wooden structures have other advantageous properties:

the construction of wooden structures is much cheaper than concrete ones;
for arrangement of monolithic concrete floors special equipment and complex engineering work are required. And in the case of wooden beams, you can do without help professional builders. The minimum required skills are to work with a hammer and saw.
Concrete floors are heavy. Their heavy weight puts a lot of pressure on the foundation, which cannot be said about the light weight of wooden structures.

A wooden floor on the second floor will put less pressure on the walls than concrete

with low density, they have sufficient load-bearing capacity to support heavy furniture.
higher rates of sound insulation and thermal insulation compared to concrete structures;

Attention! The interfloor pie will be different because there is no need to use insulation.

The decorative value of beams can be used in the interior of the room, so it is not necessary to disguise the logs and beams for covering the floor of the second floor with suspended ceilings.

Using beams on the second floor in the interior

There are also disadvantages that also need to be addressed:

wood has a shorter service life than concrete. Therefore, to increase their service life, beams are treated with antiseptic agents. Even so, under normal operating conditions, they can last more than 50 years.
has the lowest fire resistance;
the floor structure based on wooden beams is susceptible to moisture and rots under its influence.

But these shortcomings are indirectly related to the matter, because with proper operation under normal conditions wooden structures the floors of the first floor will last a good long time.

Floor design

Construction and floor of the second floor in a wooden house

Before you start detailed description creating the correct “pie” for the first floor floor, it is worth noting the constituent elements and technical rules.

Priming. The ceiling of the first floor separates the room from the underground space, the surface of which is soil. The soil becomes a source of moisture entering wood structures which may have a negative impact on their technical properties. Therefore, this surface must be waterproofed. There is no need to waterproof the second floor.
Ventilation must be provided in the underground space so that moisture penetrating from the ground is evaporated and does not enter the floor ceiling.
Brick pillars, on which wooden floor beams lie.
Wooden beams. The beams serve supporting element for floor joists. Depending on the step at which the beams are laid, the choice of the thickness of the boards for the supports depends. The structure should easily tolerate possible loads without deforming the floor.
Logs are transverse boards lying on the end sides. They serve as the basis for laying the finished floor in the form of floor boards or using plywood or other tile backing.
Insulation material is filled between the bars. In this case, it is necessary to take into account that there is a gap between the insulation and the finished floor for ventilation.
Vapor barrier and waterproofing, allowing you to protect the insulating material from moisture entering it.
Finish floor with or without sheet and tile backing. When using boards, they are laid on bars, and finishing coatings such as laminate, parquet, tiles are placed on a leveling layer of tile material.

When using an insulated coating, it is necessary to take care of damping gaps for ventilation under the floor.

Technology for creating an insulated pie on beams

The constituent elements and layers of the first floor are clear. Now we should consider the installation process and the nuances of each layer.

Priming

Soil compaction

Soil preparation should be carried out during the construction of the house, before the start of work on arranging the floor.

Inside the strip foundation, a layer of soil with vegetation is removed to a depth of 15-20 cm. In this case, local soil removal can be done in the places where the pillars are installed.
An uneven base is leveled with sand with a moisture content of no more than 4%. Dry soil is poured on top of the sand at the level of the removed soil and compacted thoroughly.
The backfill base is moistened and crushed stone or gravel several centimeters deep must be pressed into its structure.
On top of the bulk soil there should be a layer of sand-crushed stone mixture, which is compacted and compacted.

Attention! Replacing soft layers of soil is necessary in advance, because crushed stone and sand on the surface are compacted over time and form a stable surface for laying brick pillars.

Brick pillars for beams

On the compacted soil surface, a layer of roofing felt waterproofing should be laid under the posts. Brick pillars are built on top of the waterproofing layer, on which the beams for the floors will be laid.

It is advisable to apply a waterproofing layer between the pillars so that moisture cannot penetrate into the underground space.

Brick pillars

Brick pillars must be lined up at the level of the foundation, because the beams will lie on the foundation, and the pillars will perform a reinforcing function.

The distance between the pillars should be 70-100 cm in one row, and between the rows - 180-220 cm. The beams are used with a cross-section of 150x150 mm.

Installation of lags

The logs are laid perpendicular to the incident light so that finishing coat lay along the windows. If the sun's rays are in the direction of the boards, then the gaps between them are better visible.

Support system for finished floor

First of all, the outer ones are placed, establishing a gap of 2-3 cm from the wall. Subsequently, intermediate ones are laid.

For supports under the final coating, bars with a cross-section of 150x50 mm are used, which are attached to the beams with angles. At correct installation level of previous structural elements, the bars will be laid faster and easier. In this case, it is still necessary to check the level with a rule of 2 meters, because there may be individual defects in the bars.

Skull bars and subfloor

Usage insulation material, without using subfloors, it is impossible.

The subfloor is installed from unedged boards or low-grade plywood screwed into skull blocks with a cross-section of 4x4 cm.

Skull block

The cranial bars are attached either from the lower end side across, or from the lower side between the lags longitudinally. The second option is preferable because this method of fastening ensures the strength of the structure.

A subfloor of 20 mm boards is laid on top of the skull blocks and a layer of vapor barrier is placed on them. Thus, when attaching 4 cm cranial bars and 2 cm boards, 7 cm out of 9 remain for insulating material. As already mentioned, lay the insulation without a gap flush with the upper end side of the bars - do not allow air to ventilate above it.

Insulation circuit

Rolled mineral wool

Can be used as insulation various materials. The most common and popular material is mineral wool. It is worth noting several nuances of laying mineral wool slabs.

There are different thicknesses of mineral wool. It is better to use a thermal insulation circuit made of mineral wool slabs in 2 layers, rather than 1. This will allow top layer slabs to cover the joints of the lower layer.
If it is necessary to insulate 7 cm out of the 9 remaining board heights, you can use slabs of various thicknesses of 45 and 30 mm.
When choosing mineral wool as an insulation material, you should pay attention to the fact that there is standard width material 61 cm. Thus, the bars can be installed in increments of 60 cm so that the slabs do not have to be cut.
When using another step, it is worth considering that you need to cut the width of the slabs 1 cm wider so that the material fits between the boards with emphasis on the sides.

Important! If you use expanded clay as insulation, then with the same thickness of the insulating layer, the heat-shielding properties will be 2 times less.

Insulating layers

The insulation material must be protected from moisture and water from the upper side of the room, therefore a waterproofing layer is laid.

Polyethylene film can be used as a waterproofing material. The sheets are laid overlapping each other by 20-25 cm and secured with construction tape.

Finish floors

Finish floors can be made of tongue and groove boards. With a step of support bars of 60 cm, convenient for laying mineral wool, there will be optimal thickness boards 35 mm. When using a smaller pitch, you can use smaller thickness of boards.

You can lay plywood or OSB boards 16-20 mm thick, on top of which there is a finishing coating.

The floor pie along the beams of the first floor has a multi-layer structure. In order for wooden structures to serve the required period, it is necessary to comply with the technical rules for laying each layer.

Additional insulation of the floor in a wooden house will reduce heat loss and thereby reduce heating costs. Despite the fact that wooden floors have low thermal conductivity, heat leakage can occur due to the high temperature difference in the basement and on the first floor. In this article we will tell you which material is best to use for thermal insulation of the first and second floors in a private house with a wooden base.

Features of thermal insulation

How to insulate a floor in a wooden house? The process of installing thermal insulation is relatively simple. However, the quality of work is largely determined technical features coatings used for insulation. Before purchasing material for covering the rough foundation, you need to take into account several important nuances:

expected load on the coating;
humidity level;
temperature loads;
height of thermal insulation coatings.

The base insulation technology itself is simple and consists of several stages:

installation of logs;
fixation from below on wooden sheets on joists;
installation of insulation on joists;
covering the base with vapor barrier material;
finishing of the rough base.

When planning work, it is very important to take into account the microclimate in the room. To insulate the first and second floors, various heat insulators are used, correctly. Moreover, technologically the insulation process also has some differences, which we will talk about a little later.

Optimal thermal insulators

What material is best to use for finishing the rough coating with your own hands? To insulate wooden floors, both natural and synthetic thermal insulators are used. The most popular of them include:

Wood sawdust;
Expanded clay;
Minvatu;
Izolon;
Foam;
Penofol.

Each material has its own technological features and thermal insulation parameters. To understand their disadvantages and advantages, let’s consider all of the above heat insulators in more detail.

Thermal insulation with sawdust

Insulation with sawdust is one of the most budget options thermal insulation of wooden floors. Ecologically pure material It is quite light, so it can be used for insulating interfloor ceilings. The thickness of the heat insulation layer can be easily varied due to its flowability. Thus, it is possible to regulate the level of heat loss in the room.

When finishing the base with sawdust, you can use the following types of wood-based coatings:

Blocks of pressed sawdust. The material is produced from copper sulfate, sawdust and dry cement. As a rule, it is laid between the joists when insulating the first floor. Lightweight blocks of small thickness - up to 15 mm, can be used for wall cladding;
Pellets with sawdust. Granular bulk material is made from sawdust treated with an antiseptic and glue. Hard-to-burn sawdust can be insulated interfloor ceilings, since they do not create a large static load due to their low weight;
Arbolit. In this case, the base material is mixed with synthetic and organic additives, and then molded into blocks. The non-flammable thermal insulator has high bending strength, while it is hygroscopic. Therefore, during its installation it is necessary to use waterproofing layers;
Sawdust concrete. Externally, blocks with sawdust resemble cinder blocks. They are made from a mixture of wood chip granules, cement and sand. Suitable only for thermal insulation of the first floor of a house.

Insulating the floor along joists with sawdust in any case involves the use of a waterproofing layer. Hygroscopic material is a good environment for the development of mold and pathogenic flora, so during the operation of the coating it is necessary to exclude the possibility of moisture ingress.

Thermal insulation with expanded clay

Expanded clay - granular insulation with good performance sound and heat insulation. Why is it worth insulating foundations with expanded clay? The heat insulator has considerable advantages, which include:

environmental friendliness;
frost resistance;
strength;
low thermal conductivity;
non-flammability.

When finishing the expanded clay coating with your own hands, you need to consider low level hydrophobicity. The material quickly absorbs moisture, although it does not deform. However, insulation with expanded clay is fraught with the formation of mold under the floor. Therefore, during the installation process it is necessary to think about additional waterproofing.

How to properly make thermal insulation with expanded clay?

Before expanding expanded clay, lay a layer of waterproofing on the base. It can be plastic film or roofing felt;
The layer thickness should vary from 10 to 50 mm, no more;
As you can see in the photo, a vapor barrier is placed on top of the insulation;
Coatings with a foil layer can be used as a vapor barrier. The best option will become Penofol.

If you want to insulate a plank floor with expanded clay with your own hands, under which there is a basement, it is advisable to pour a layer of sand underneath. Thanks to it, condensation will not accumulate under the floor, which will significantly reduce the risk of mold or mildew.

Thermal insulation with mineral wool

Is it possible to insulate wooden base by lags mineral wool? The environmentally friendly thermal insulator is made from fibers obtained from glass containers and slag. The advantages of finishing the rough base with mineral wool include:

ease of installation;
low cost;
light weight;
environmental friendliness;
resistance to mold;
good thermal insulation.

However, in the case of treating the floor along joists with mineral wool, several must be taken into account negative points, namely:

Upon contact with water, a coating insulated with mineral wool loses its thermal insulation qualities;
It is not recommended to use the material for cladding the second floor due to low vapor permeability;
It is not advisable to insulate rooms with high temperatures with mineral wool. static load due to low strength.

What is the work schedule?

Preparing the base. From below you need to install a plank floor treated with an antiseptic;
Waterproofing. It is necessary to make additional waterproofing using polyethylene film, pre-clean up the house;
Cladding with mineral wool. During the installation process, you need to ensure that the layers of material are laid on the joists very tightly to each other;
Installation of vapor barrier. It is better to make a high-quality vapor barrier with Penofol;
The final stage. On at this stage install the finishing coating.

The thickness of mineral wool is determined by the microclimate in the room. If there is a basement below the room, the material can be laid in two layers.

Ecowool thermal insulation

Why is it better to make thermal insulation with ecowool? 100% natural coating has good technical parameters and a relatively low cost. It is made from cellulose and mineral additives, so even when heated, the ecowool coating does not emit caustic chemicals. Soaked boric acid the product is practically invulnerable to fungus and mold.

What advantages does this type of insulation have?

Good heat and sound insulation;
Fire safety;
Environmentally friendly;
Low thermal conductivity.

As you can see in the photo, finishing the rough base using ecowool joists can be done in two ways:

Manual. In this case, finishing with ecowool involves installing insulation along the joists on boards attached below. To prevent heat loss, the joints are treated with polyurethane foam;
Mechanical. To finish the base of ecowool, blowing machines are used: through a special hose, crumbly insulation is evenly distributed over the coating. In this case, the layer thickness should be at least 3-4 mm.

The process of thermal insulation of ecowool floors is shown in more detail in the video clip.

Thanks to the glue that is included in the thermal insulator, it can be used to insulate not only the floor base, but also walls. It is also worth noting that ecowool is convenient for insulating not only the first floor of the house, but also interfloor ceilings. The vapor-permeable coating does not contribute to the accumulation of condensation and the development of mold.

Insulation with Izolon

How to properly insulate joists with isolon? The heat insulator, made of foamed polyethylene, has low thermal conductivity. Due to this quality, it has recently begun to be used for insulating floor coverings. What are the advantages of Izolon?

Small thickness (2-10 mm);
Low thermal conductivity;
High hydrophobicity;
Environmental safety.

As can be seen from the photo, the material is produced in rolls, which greatly facilitates the DIY installation process. Insulating wooden floor Izolon, you need to consider the following points:

The coating has good sound insulation, so when laying it it is not necessary to use additional sound-proofing layers;
To reduce heat loss in the room, when laying Izolon with your own hands, the material is not joined, but overlapped;
The seams between adjacent sheets are treated with polymer glue or bitumen mastic.

Thermal insulation work can be seen in the photo below.

Insulation with Penofol

Is it possible to insulate wooden floors penofol? Penofol is a new generation insulating coating, available in roll form. To be more precise, Penofol is used for shielding, which prevents the dissipation of radiant energy. Lightweight and easy to use, the insulation has a reflective layer that prevents large heat losses. That is why it began to be used everywhere for finishing interfloor ceilings.

What are the benefits of Penofol?

withstands heavy loads;
non-hygroscopic;
has low thermal conductivity;
easy to install;
does not involve the use of vapor barrier.

FYI. The technology for insulating bases with Penofol is not much different from insulating with Izolon. As in the previous version, the sheets are laid overlapping to prevent heat loss.

Features of insulation by logs

How to properly insulate a rough foundation along the joists? During the installation of the thermal insulator, the following scheme must be observed:

The rough base is lined with boards that must be attached to the joists;
To prevent moisture from getting under the coating, lay a layer of vapor barrier;
Then the base is insulated with polystyrene foam, mineral wool or other materials.

If you need to make high-quality thermal insulation of a room above a non-residential and unheated room, then it is better to use mineral wool with a thickness of more than 40 mm as insulation. In this case, the “pie” made from a vapor barrier and mineral wool will keep the room warm, preventing heat exchange between cold basement and the first floor.

Features of thermal insulation of the first floor

Since wood tends to deform, over time, cracks may form in the floor, through which heat gradually begins to escape from the room. How to make high-quality insulation of the first floor in an old house?