You begin to appreciate many things after they are gone. The same applies to additional options VAZ 2110. Central locking (CL), for example, you can not notice as long as it works properly, or you can do without it altogether. But you quickly get used to good things, don’t you? Therefore, when something that provides us with a comfortable ride fails, you immediately begin to rush around in search of answers “how to fix it.”
VAZ cars are not least good for their high maintainability. Whenever something happens to your iron horse, you can almost certainly solve the problem yourself without the help of specialists at a service station. “Ten” was no exception in this regard.
As for the central locking system specifically on Lada 110 cars, this is really a rich topic for discussion. Ignorance of elementary circuits and the operating principle of the unit can confuse many motorists. However, servicing the mechanism is quite simple. And given the enviable frequency of its failure, it turns out that knowing “how” is simply vital.
What is the central locking on the VAZ 2110?
The purpose of this type of device is to centrally control the automatic mechanism for opening and closing all doors in the car at once. This is especially convenient for working in conjunction with an alarm system and when operating a car in general. However, the reliability of the operation of the central locking system should definitely be checked every time by moving the handles of all four doors before leaving for a long time about your business, since the actuator can often fail and one of the doors may remain unlocked.
Structurally, the VAZ 2110 central lock consists of the following elements:
- electronic transistor control unit;
- gearmotor actuators, also known as activators (one for each door);
- a limit switch that determines the current state of the door (open or closed);
- electrical wiring and other installation elements.
Why the central locking on the VAZ 2110 does not work correctly
The problem of improper operation of the actuator is not at all uncommon for cars in the domestic automobile industry. Despite the fact that there are a number of reasons for the failure of mechanism parts, the principle of operation automatic system closing doors is quite simple, and malfunctions are very typical in their total mass. This means that any motorist can deal with them.
You don’t have to grab your head and run to the workshop in search of a qualified specialist. Thanks to the diagnostic recommendations below, you yourself are very likely to become one. If, for some reason, you don’t want to get your hands dirty, at least no one else will dare to mess with you. And this, you see, also costs a lot.
Problems in the operation of the activator electric drive
The central locking actuator is quite fragile and does not tolerate overload. The activator body, made of plastic, can easily melt if the frequency of door closing is excessively high. The duration of the control pulse also plays an equally important role. Try to always remember about the extreme fragility of the activator and not to load it during operation.
It is easy to guess that the activator is located in each individual door of the car. If the body of one of them melts due to overheating of the electric drive commutator, this becomes the cause of many problems:
- the activator on individual doors stops functioning;
- Constant overloads in a jammed electric drive cause the fuse to fail.
The actuator mechanism is entirely made of plastic. Gears can easily wear out and break during operation, or melt when the commutator overheats. As a result, when the central locking operates, characteristic creaking sounds are heard - a sure sign of imminent failure of the activators. Likewise, if the gearbox of the mechanism is humming, but the doors do not open or close.
Malfunctions of this kind can also be associated with all sorts of defects in the gearmotor and its traction. If you have recently replaced the central locking system, the reason may be that it was installed incorrectly. The mechanism may also be incorrectly adjusted or the fastening may be broken. In any case, the door trim should be removed and checked visually.
Problem in the operation of the central locking electrical circuit on VAZ cars
The first possible problem follows smoothly from those mentioned in the previous section. Overload in the operation of activators leads to an increase in the operating current in the supply circuit above the rated value. As a result, the fuse blows and the central locking of the VAZ 2110 simply “dies”.
It is by checking the fuse that the diagnosis of central locking malfunctions begins. By the way, it is located in a very specific place and it is not easy to find it right away even if you know where to look. In order to get to it, you will need to fold back the central panel with the fuses and dig into the entire wiring harness in the niche that opens behind it. The “comrade” you need is packaged in a special plastic cup and connected to the pink wire.
Another very common and obvious problem is the central locking plug connector. It is located in the most unfavorable place for this in the interior body, under the foot mat. A large amount of moisture and dirt inevitably gets there. Electrical contacts are intensively oxidized. As a result, the power supply circuit involuntarily breaks at the point where the plug connector is connected.
Problem with the operation of the VAZ-2110 central locking control unit
Electronics, of course, are reliable things. Modern control modules for the central locking VAZ 2110 are assembled using a transistor control circuit. This eliminates their mechanical wear. The shelf life of key components is measured in tens of years. The control unit is located under plastic cover torpedoes on the right side of the driver's seat.
However, power transistors can easily fail when the activators are overloaded and the collector is short-circuited. It may even happen that the signal from the control unit will constantly be sent to the lock drive if the transistor is broken. Otherwise, it will simply not turn on.
Checking the control unit is extremely simple. The voltage from the negative terminal of the battery, or directly from the pink wire supplying the control unit, is supplied to the contacts of the gearmotor (activator) sequentially to the red and yellow conductors. All of the above contacts can be found directly on the eight-pin connector of the control unit.
Central locking, or “CZ” as it is briefly called, is a necessary and essential thing for any car, allowing the owner to open and close any door in the car with just one movement of the hand. However, it happens that this system ceases to function completely, or its individual parts do not work properly.
There are reasons why one or another part of the central lock may fail, and we will discuss each in detail below.
The central locking does not work: signs of malfunction and causes of their occurrence
It happens that when closing the central lock located on driver's door no action occurs on the remaining doors. However, as soon as you move it a little, the doors immediately closed. It is immediately clear that the problem here is the presence of malfunctions in the central locking and several reasons contribute to this.
Among all possible reasons All the most important faults can be identified.
No contact in the drive
With such a malfunction, the contacts inside the control drive do not close the necessary contacts in time. This happens for several reasons:
When such problems occur in the operation of the central locking, first of all you need to make sure that the button is lowered all the way. If for some reason this does not happen, first inspect the casing for burrs, and then inspect the rod for its even and accurate position.
Fuse blown
If manipulations with the central locking rod do not bring any results, and they do not react in any way to either opening or locking, then first of all you need to check its electrical circuit, and specifically the fuse. Because on the central lock it can fail not only when short circuit in the circuit, but also from the slightest overload.
The central locking fuse is indicated by a marker.
Overload occurs most often from insufficient position of the rods, as well as lubrication in them during winter operation of the car.
The central locking wires are broken
Broken wires are not the main, but one of the reasons for the failure of the central locking system. The main reason for this is the break in the wires in those places where they bear the greatest load. Such a place is definitely the passage of the corrugation from the side of the pillar and the driver's door. And since it is the driver’s door that is most often opened in any car, it receives most of the load.
- It is quite easy to identify such a malfunction; you just need to release one of the ends of the corrugation through which the wires pass into the door and pull one of the five central locking wires. As a rule, they are connected into one bundle, or go next to each other.
- After carrying out such manipulations, a wire that is torn or interrupted will easily give way among the general heap.
- If you are absolutely sure that a particular circuit is faulty, replacing it will not be difficult by tapping the right wire and further insulation using electrical tape.
- When the wires are broken or torn in other places, the fault can only be found by testing the circuit with a multimeter.
Block burned out
Another reason why the central lock may fail is a burnout of the central locking unit. And in order to diagnose it, you need to use the above-mentioned multimeter and determine the presence of voltage at the contacts of the block.
This is what the immobilizer and central locking unit look like behind the instrument panel.
Please note that during diagnostics it is necessary to operate the lock in the driver's door so that impulses are sent from it to the main unit.
The central locking activator is faulty
And the last reason why the central locking refuses to work is the failure of the activator on the central drive. It can fail both for mechanical reasons, due to wear of rubbing parts, and due to exposure to external factors moisture and corrosion.
If the activator itself breaks down, it is necessary to replace the electric drive with a new one and replace it. Pay attention to the fact that the drive must have five wires of different colors.
The principle of operation of the central lock on the VAZ-2112
The central lock, which operates from the driver's door drive of the VAZ-2112, works as follows:
When the lock closes, the rod on the driver's door moves down, thereby closing certain contacts on the electric drive. From these actions, the central locking unit receives signals and transmits commands to the drives of all other door locks. Their discovery occurs in the same way.
IN this review discussed how to connect an alarm system to the central locking of the following cars: VAZ-21099, as well as 2110 and 2115. There are three standard connection schemes: for central locking controlled by negative, positive and variable polarity. But different cars have their own nuances. Sometimes it is necessary to add a fuse to the “+12 Volt” wire, sometimes, on the contrary, this is not required. VAZ locks, in turn, belong to the very simple type, to the first one. But the standard scheme published on the Internet is not suitable for them.
Features of the VAZ central lock
Everyone knows that the Lada models listed here use central locking controlled by negative polarity. This literally means the following: we apply “0 Volt” to one wire - all locks close. We apply the same voltage to the other wire (second) - they unlock. This is done in many European cars. What does it mean to “supply “0 Volt”? This means connecting the wire to ground.
Central locking control unit connector
The central locking control unit has the following wiring:
- Black wire – ground (connected all the time);
- Pink – power supply “+12V” (built-in fuse is used);
- Yellow, red - connected to the actuators in the doors (these wires are not connected to the signaling system!);
- Brown, white - control wires, just those that have already been mentioned.
Let's look at the central locking connection diagram, which is implemented “from the factory”:
Standard connection diagram for central locking At first, we may decide that the triangular connector (labeled “C”) is suitable for our purposes, since it contains control contacts. But please note that the standard circuit uses a microswitch located in the driver's door. We will break two wires coming from this switch, and the relays built into the alarm unit will be connected to the breaks. Other options are excluded.
Let's make the alarm system and central locking together
Any modern alarm unit is equipped with two relays connected to the central locking control unit. One relay is opening, the second is locking, and the circuit in the general case looks like this:
Control of central locking by supply of “mass” In our case, the green and white cords coming from the signaling unit will be required, as indicated in the diagram. However, they will not be the only ones needed. We will connect the relay contacts to breaks in the standard wiring. This means there will be not 2, but 4 cords.
Connection diagram for VAZ central locker
Look again at the diagram published in the first chapter. We will connect the relay to the gap in the white and brown wires going from the microswitch to the central lock control unit. And it is obvious that it is easier to break these wires near the 8-pin connector. The same one shown at the beginning.
To avoid any questions, we will show you what should happen as a result:
Connection diagram, central lock VAZ
The common contacts are connected to the wires coming out of the microphone. The white cord continues with the brown wire coming from the door, and so on. Normally closed contacts are also used, along with normally open ones. These are the features of connecting to the VAZ central locking system.
An approximate sequence of actions performed by the installer:
- Make and lay a 4-core cable running from the signaling unit to the 8-pin connector;
- Connect the cable on the side of the alarm unit (see the last diagram);
- Near the 8-pin connector, disconnect the white and brown wires coming from the microswitch (pins 5 and 7). The main thing is not to confuse them with the wires going to the triangular connector “C”;
- Make connections to the broken wires, white and brown. That's all.
We have given this sequence to emphasize once again that the relays are switched on between the microphone and the central lock control unit. There is no need to connect any additional devices. As a result, the alarm system will be able to control the state of the locks.
Remember that installation is performed by removing the negative terminal from the battery.
All wires added to the car structure must be protected (use heat-resistant tubes or electrical tape). Twisting is not the worst method to connect two wires. But it's even better to use soldering.
It would seem that if a person has experience working with electrical equipment, he can do everything according to the instructions given. As a result, if no mistakes are made, you may encounter an interesting phenomenon. Instead of closing, there will be a short-term locking followed by opening. And vice versa. What to do in this case?
Take a look at what exactly may be present in some of the configurations:
Cheaper - no driver actuator The driver's door may not have an actuator. And then, it is useless to connect the signaling system to the control unit. There is no actuator, which means there is no one to close or open the door and move the microphone lever. Let's say the locks are closed, and then we remove ground from the brown wire and we get the following: the white wire is on ground, unlocking occurs.
We note the following: installation can only be carried out when you are sure that there is an actuator in the driver's door.
There were configurations where only a microswitch was installed. There is no need for arrogance here - adding an actuator will be difficult, since standard wiring must go to it. As you understand, it may not be available from the factory. And it’s unclear what to do then.
There remains one unanswered question - where exactly the central locking control unit is located. In these VAZ models, if there is a central locking system, then there is also a control unit. And it is located under the torpedo cover, next to the driver, on the right:
VAZ-2110, BU TsZ We remove the “beard” of the torpedo and look at what is on the upper right. On the same plane with the radio connector there are two boxes attached - the one we need, as well as the immobilizer (if there is one).
We would be lying if we did not say that in reality there is another option for installing the alarm. Standardly, only two are used for actuators power cables. Having a power outlet equipped with a fuse, these cables are connected directly to the alarm relay. This option, as you might guess, is not recommended. Imagine what would happen if the alarm system broke. The central lock must remain, but in this case this will not be done. Happy connection!
Installation of the VAZ-2110 lock actuator
You quickly get used to good things and when The central lock breaks down, then there is no need to delay repairs. The causes of the breakdown can be determined by the symptoms and in most cases repair the central lock with your own hands is not difficult. However, in some cases solve the central locking problem The only way is to replace it.
How install central locking in VAZ 2110 I won't tell you, because... detailed instructions is in the VAZ 2110 documentation (connection diagram for the central locking VAZ 2110), but I’ll try clearly show various breakdowns of the electric lock and ways to solve them.
Central locking (CL) or another way electric lock consists of an activator (actuator, electric door lock drive), wiring, traction. Therefore, if you have The electric lock is broken and not working, then the problem lies in these components.
The VAZ 2110 can use various activators. They may differ in force, small design features, manufacturer/country, etc., but their operating principle is similar: 
Operating principle of the central locking activator
In order to understand why doesn't the electric lock work?, you should consider the principle of its operation:
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Five-wire activator with with the lid removed. There is a boot above the activator. Two activator wires are connected to the electric motor. The remaining three wires are connected to the limit switch. |
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In this photograph, the fragment with the image of the limit switch is enlarged, it is indicated by the letter “A”. “B”—stem shank in extended position. “C” is the motor shaft with a gear mounted on it. |
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“A” - the rod is extended. “B” - damper rubber rings. They protect the rod and body from damage when impacted in the extreme positions of the rod. |
It is not correct to check the operation of the activator without rigid fixation (without mounting on the door) and without connecting the rod, because
after being triggered to the extreme retracted or extended position, the rod will rebound in the opposite direction.
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Problems with the central locking
Consider the moment when the driver closes the car, the doors close and immediately open.
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If we consider this case in detail, it turns out that the rod is retracted almost completely, and the limit switch is in a borderline state (it may be pressed, or it may not). The limit switch will send a command to the central locking module and the other doors will also close, but as a result of minor deformation of the door or mechanism (for example, a small impact on the car, heating/cooling of the door metal, etc.) the limit switch can switch back and the central lock will open. The defect may appear when the door is closed, when the standard mechanism springs the rod and, accordingly, the rod into the reverse position and the doors open again. |
To make sure that this is the problem of the central locking in your case, you need to turn on the alarm while sitting in the car and try to press the door lock button down with your hand (to prevent a spring defect in the mechanism). If the doors do not open, then this means the above-described defect in the mechanism for adjusting and fastening the activator and its rod.
Why is there no such problem with central locking on foreign cars?
Because there the command to open the lock is given by other circuits that do not receive a signal confirming the position of the rod.
If the central locking only works in one direction, and in the other not, but when an attempt to move occurs, then perhaps the reason is poor fastening of the screw on the activator rod.
The problem is when When closing/opening the central lock there is a rattling noise and the rod does not move.
It's all about plastic parts. The intermediate gear transmits rotation from the gear on the motor shaft to the teeth of the rod. Because The gear is plastic, and over time the teeth will chip and break. 
This failure of the central locking system is often found in Alpha activators. The pin on which the intermediate gear is mounted breaks mounting hole, or this hole could be large sizes than necessary. Hence the skew of the gear, jamming of the activator, and a similar cracking of the teeth from their loose fit.
So does everyone else plastic elements activator over time and from not correct installation the central lock may break.
Activator motor has a brass gear, which over time will break down the plastic of the gear, and the gear on the shaft will simply spin. 
The problem is when The central locking does not work, but the rod can move as usual, by hand. Or central lockingdoes not always work (every time). In this case, the central locking motor failed. The activator motor is disassembled, where “A” is the commutator pole with a winding soldered to it, “B” is the commutator poles, and “C” is the commutator brushes. 
The central locking motor may not work for a number of reasons:
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Correct installation of the central locking (activator)
Incorrect installation of the activator in the car door increases wear of parts, which leads to breakdown of the central lock.
Install the activator can be done as desired (vertically, horizontally or at an angle), just as the closure can be by extending the rod or vice versa.
It is important that there is enough space for the activator to work, there is enough space for the rod to pass through, there is also a convenient and reliable connection of the rod, and the fastening is accessible.
Check the operation of the central locking should be done with the windows lowered and after installing the door trim. 
Activator mount should be at maximum flat surface. A slight misalignment when fastened to an uneven surface with the force of self-tapping screws can cause difficulty in the operation of the gear shafts. When installing the activator, it is recommended to use washers or bushings to level the surface. If the activator gets into holes in the metal of the door, then it is necessary to use the plate from the activator kit.
The design of the VAZ 2110 door implies bending rod, so it is important to bend the rod correctly. The angle should be clear and preferably minimal. If the angle approaches the arc or the distance of the activator attachment from the rod itself is very large, then instead of the effort of moving the standard rod we will get a force to overcome the bend of this arch. It is clearly visible in the second figure, where the activator, pushing the rod upward, will apply force to the standard rod not upward, but to the side.
If the central locking does not work correctly and the activator does not always have enough power to open or close the door, you should focus your efforts on finding the cause and eliminating the malfunction. However, enthusiasts have found another solution to this problem - modified central locking VAZ 2110(installed the second activator). That is, the second activator is additional and helps the work of the first standard activator. The yellow arrow is the direction of movement of the rod of the standard mechanism, and the red arrow is the movement of the additional activator. 
In fact If the activator is installed correctly, no additional activator is required and one activator can do its job perfectly.
An example of incorrect installation of the central lock. The yellow arrow is the movement of the standard rod, the red arrow is the movement of the activator rod. As a result, the force of the rod will be applied to the fracture and the steel rod will eventually begin to pop out of the rod hole. The error can be eliminated by installing plates ( green) under the activator (orange). Thus, the activator will be as close as possible to the standard rod and bends in the activator rod will be minimal.
Correct fastening of the lock rod 
Rod fastening element has through hole for the activator rod and a split side for attaching to the standard rod. If the fixing screws are loosened, then this element should move freely on the activator rod. We select the mounting location and fix the screws with proper force. Push the activator rod down by hand, then push the standard rod in the direction corresponding to the closed state of the door lock.
After both rods are retracted, we fix the screw on the activator rod with medium force. Holding the standard rod in place, we extend the activator rod together with the fastening by 2-3 mm and fix the fastening with medium force on the standard rod of the lock.
Checking work: We check with our hands the movement of the activator together with the door lock mechanism; the latch must be closed. We check the opening of the latch in the extreme positions of the activator. We check in what positions the remaining doors close. The main thing is that this is not one of the extreme positions or close to the extreme position of the additional activator. We check the movement of the window lifter. We apply the door trim to ensure subsequent fastening and the absence of protruding elements. If everything is fine, tighten the screws securing the rods with maximum force.
We check the operation of the activator by hand again. We check the operation of the activator from the battery. We briefly touch the long wires from the battery to the activator wires, change the polarity and operation of the activator in a different direction.
A number of deviations, amendments and wishes:
If fastening screw No. 2 on the rod becomes loose, then there may be several options:
The rod slides in the hole and the lock does not move.
The lock either closes or opens. This happens because the sharp edges of the element (at points 1) can bite the rod and, depending on the upper or lower point, will either only close or, on the contrary, open.
Installing the activator on cable traction
Actually, the installation is similar to that described above, but the attachment to the locking mechanism cables is shown in the photo.
Fig2: Fastening the kit to the metal of the door and fastening the cable in the jacket
Fig3: The cable is released from the jacket between the fastenings.
Fig4: Connecting the activator rod to the cable. 
This kit is difficult to find on sale, so the plate can be cut out of metal yourself, and the spring fastenings can be taken from the Gazelle stove (fastening the cable jacket). Activator.
Conclusion
Causes of central locking failure many, some of them related to climatic conditions(cold winters, high humidity etc.), and partly due to incorrect installation or adjustment of the central locking. In any case, from the symptoms you can understand where approximately or exactly problem with the electric lock.
By the way, do you know how to install additional. central locking button?
The VAZ-2110 central lock is considered a fairly safe device for the owner of this car. Keeping pace with progress, a person strives to be in time everywhere. This type of transport, such as a car, has long become not a luxury, but a means of transportation. According to statistics, every second person drives a car.
1. Mounting block. 2. 8 A fuse. 3. Control unit. 4. Right front door locking motor. 5. Right locking motor back door. 6. Left rear door locking motor. 7. Motor reducer for locking the left front door with a contact group. A - to power supplies; B - conventional numbering of plugs in the control unit block; C - conventional numbering of plugs in the blocks of geared motors for locking locks.
Today, the products of the domestic automobile industry are not in great demand, since foreign cars dominate the market. But not everyone can afford a foreign car. Therefore, people buy cheaper domestically produced vehicles. One of these cars is the VAZ 2110, which was distinguished by its stable performance, low cost of repair and easy operation.
How the central lock works
Central locking is a system that, when given a certain command, performs the function of opening or closing an object. For ease of use, this operation is performed remotely. Some car enthusiasts choose the function of closing all doors after a certain period of time. It is very convenient for those cases when the driver does not have time or forgets to close the car door.
As a rule, using a long-range remote control you can control both the trunk and the hood, close and open the windows. The most common way to control the remote control is by pressing one button, after which all the locks on the car are activated. If the remote control does not work for some reason, then you need to insert the key into door lock and turn it clockwise.
If an accident occurs, the car's security system is activated automatically and all locks open. The central locking mechanism is based on incoming sensors located in the structure itself. These are microswitches and door switches (limit switches), actuators and a control unit.
The limit switch must maintain the door position and this information must be transmitted to the control unit. Switches fix the structural part door lock. The front doors of the car are equipped with a cam device. To fix the cam, the front doors are equipped with microswitches: there are two parts for each mechanism.
Blocking the lock is formed by one switch, and unlocking is formed by the second. There are two more microswitches used by the central locking mechanism. On lever device a fifth switch is installed in the lock drive. It serves to determine the door position: when the door is open, the switch contacts close and the central locking system is deactivated.
The electronic mechanism (block) receives the signal from the microswitches and sends information to central administration. In order to open an object, the central device sends a signal to certain control units, thereby activating the mechanisms in the locks.
Possible problems with the locking system
As we know, any equipment fails sooner or later. And the central locking on the VAZ 2110 is no exception. There are a number of problems that manifest themselves in the operation of this system. Many car enthusiasts inadvertently destroy security system car. The driver should not give a long or rapid impulse when requesting a door to be opened or closed.
Central locking diagram for VAZ 2110
This action can damage the activator with which the closing device operates. When a long pulse is applied, the collector of the activator electric motor heats up very much. In this regard, the brush holder begins to melt and it may jam. After this, the activator will need to be replaced.
A fuse protects the central locking circuit. It is from this point that they begin to search for faults in the operation of the entire circuit. It is located inside the car, behind the fuse box. According to the diagram, it is located at the break of the pink wire (in insulation). Under the driver's mat there is a wire with a plug connector, which accumulates moisture and oxidizes. The power supply to the activator is lost.
The modular central locking unit may break. You should check its functionality by applying voltage from the battery to the module connector contact. The gear activator gears are made of plastic. Such parts are subject to wear and tear and this is a mechanical failure.
But the solenoid is considered the weakest point of the central lock; most often it is the one that fails. The electromagnet is controlled via a switch. When opening and closing doors, the life of the solenoids is calculated for approximately 10 thousand operations. After this number of switchings, malfunctions begin. The repair is simple: you need to replace the solenoid itself.
