How to properly ventilate a cellar? Natural ventilation system in the basement How to properly ventilate a surface cellar

Proper ventilation– the key to a good indoor microclimate. The absence of dampness, fungus, mold, maintaining temperature and humidity conditions are indicators correct operation systems. When deciding to build a home cellar, you need to consider all the nuances in order to ultimately obtain the appropriate storage regime for fruits, vegetables, and canned products.

Correct microclimate in the cellar

The best ventilation, which is justified in all respects, for the construction of a cellar with natural air exchange. Requirements that a food storage room must meet:

  • Proper air humidity. With high humidity: food quickly deteriorates and mold forms in the room. Properly installed waterproofing will help to avoid this.
  • Influx needed fresh air and waste disposal.
  • There should be no temperature changes to avoid freezing of products, as well as the formation of dampness.

Ventilation in the cellar: principle of operation

For proper operation ventilation system, two openings are provided in the cellar, which allow for the influx and removal of air masses. Pipes of the required diameter and length are supplied to these holes. Therefore, when designing a system, correct calculation is very important. Their location is important for proper air movement.

If the cellar is located under a building (house or garage), then the pipes are located in the walls of the building. In a separate building they are brought out through the ceiling. Large volumes of cold air must not be allowed to enter. At the same time, stagnant basement odor must be constantly removed.

Do-it-yourself ventilation in the cellar: key accents

Which pipes are suitable?

Two pipes (air supply and exhaust) made of asbestos or galvanized iron. What should be the length of the pipe is calculated as follows: the exhaust pipe runs along the corner of the cellar, starting one and a half meters from its floor (approximately 20 cm below the ceiling) and ending on the roof, at least 0.5 m above the ridge. The correct height affects the level of traction.

The supply pipe is installed in the opposite corner from the exhaust pipe, at a height of up to 0.3 m from the floor level. The diameter of the pipes is calculated based on the values ​​​​approved by standards, so per 1 sq. m of cellar area – 26 sq. cm pipe section.

Let's say the cellar area is 10 square meters. m, then using the formula for the area of ​​a circle, we will find the pipe cross-section we need.

R= √S/π = √(26x10)/3.14= 9.1 cm. This means the cross section the required pipe– 18 cm.

When making calculations, keep in mind that if the calculated diameter is, for example, 12.8 cm, you need to take higher value – 14.

Important! In order to obtain proper ventilation of the cellar, the cross-section of the exhaust pipe must be calculated with a coefficient of 1.15. That is, for a cellar with an area of ​​10 square meters. m - 20 cm (18x1.15), and for 5 sq. m – 16 cm.

Mandatory thermal insulation

Insulation of the exhaust pipe in the place where it passes through attic space, is required when installing it. The pipe, which performs the functions of removing warm air, forms on its inner surface condensate. It freezes in the cold, reducing, and sometimes completely blocking, the path of exhaust air. It is also necessary to protect the exhaust and supply pipes with canopies that will not allow precipitation to get inside.

Attention! Adjust air exchange using dampers that are built into the pipes. Thanks to such devices, it is possible to change the intensity of incoming and outgoing air masses.

Ventilation from boards

For small sizes It is advisable to ventilate the premises in a cellar with one pipe. It is made two-channel. You can make a ventilation pipe for a free-standing cellar from boards 3-4 cm thick. It is a hollow rectangular structure with sides of 18 cm each. Inside there is a diagonal partition. To regulate the inflow and outflow of air, each channel has a valve.

Important! Supply and exhaust pipes should not be located at the same level. This rule does not apply to single pipe ventilation.

How to make ventilation in the cellar at home?

To install such ventilation, it is necessary to comply prerequisite– it should not disturb the comfort of the residents of the house with the odors that are present in the cellar. This fact may indicate that the cellar ventilation is not working properly.

The ventilation device in the cellar located under the house must be carried out in compliance with regulatory requirements to the installation of pipes and their sizes, depending on the height of the building and the area of ​​the cellar. Only cellar ventilation with two pipes can be installed in the house.

Rules for installing cellar ventilation in a house

  • The supply pipe “enters” horizontally into that part of the foundation that is located above the ground level. Upon entering the room, the pipe turns 90° down and enters directly into the cellar, not reaching the floor 0.2-0.5 m. Ventilation pipe the inlet should not have many bends and its diameter along the entire length of the air duct should be the same.
  • The entrance to the tributary, located low from the ground, may be covered with snow in winter. To prevent this, you need to constantly clear the rubble (if any happens). Also, it must be covered with a grill through which rodents and birds cannot enter.
  • The exhaust ventilation of a cellar in a private house runs inside the wall, along the kitchen or into a special channel.
  • It is rational to arrange a cellar room under the kitchen, so the ventilation ducts will be combined.
  • If you intend to build a sufficiently large room that serves the purpose of a cellar, forced ventilation can be installed in it. To do this, add an exhaust fan to the circuit, which will prevent stale and musty air from stagnating.

Checking ventilation for efficiency

After completing the installation of ventilation in the cellar and all related work, you need to check how well it works, whether excess humidity. Performance can be checked using an ordinary match. To do this you just need to light it. As you know, from a school physics course, combustion is supported by oxygen, but if the air is supersaturated with carbon dioxide, then combustion is weak or completely absent. This means that a lit and brightly burning match indicates the presence of oxygen in the air and good operation of the system, while an extinguished match indicates that the ventilation is not working properly.

In a new cellar, after “commissioning” it is necessary to check the operation of the ventilation system

You can determine what the humidity is in the cellar using the long-known method - “a glass of water.” Poured into a glass cold water so that its walls fog up. After standing in the cellar for some time, the moisture from the glass will evaporate - ventilation copes with this indicator. If condensation flows down the walls of the glass in streams, the microclimate of the cellar does not meet the requirements. You can get rid of dampness by changing the operation of the ventilation system. As a preventive measure, paint the walls with slaked lime. Also, you can always keep a bucket of lime in the basement, which perfectly absorbs moisture.

In order for the ventilation of the cellar in the house to work correctly and meet all the requirements, such a stage as design cannot be neglected. After all, a malfunctioning system will subsequently not contribute to the preservation of products, but, on the contrary, will spoil them, at the same time growing mold fungi.

Since ancient times, back then in Rus', it was customary to stock up on food for the winter. There were no giants then food industry, and if people went to the market, they found there exclusively goods from the neighboring cellar. People built dugouts, dug basements without any utility networks and waterproofing. As a result, the premises were flooded with water and food was lost. About devices such as cellar ventilation and waterproofing the room were out of the question. The people were not yet so educated and developed.

Now everything is different. Knowledge of basement design and construction allows you to create better food storage spaces. When calculating and designing ventilation devices in the cellar Standardized norms and rules apply. They allow you to competently and wisely organize the basement from the inside, provide an ideal microclimate for storing vegetables and preserve the harvest until next year.

Cellar ventilation: basic requirements

According to its purpose ventilation device for cellars and basements designed to provide moderate and stable levels of humidity and air temperature. In addition to ventilation, several other factors influence these indicators.

Therefore, immediately before construction, it is necessary to understand and provide for all possible factors that, during the operation of the premises, may affect the climate of the basement.

Only taking into account all the factors that can influence the functioning of the cellar will help achieve a certain climate. If something is missed, then you should not scold the ventilation or place excessive hopes on it. Undoubtedly, it is capable of maintaining the desired microclimate, but it cannot eliminate the wetting of the wall.

If the basement has a favorable location, good hydro- and thermal insulation, then you can proceed to the design and installation of ventilation.

As in most residential and production premises general purpose, ventilation in the basement has a source of air flow from environment and a device for the outflow of wet, contaminated carbon dioxide masses.

Basement ventilation systems

The most common option for constructing a basement involves locating the cellar under the main rooms of a private house. In this case, two options for the exhaust device are used:

  1. two-channel;
  2. single channel.

The first one is used most often. It has a number of advantages in terms of servicing a larger cellar area.

Two-channel ventilation device

The ventilation technology with two points of inflow and outflow does not have any difficulties in installing air ducts.

Basement ventilation with ideal development construction process houses should be calculated at the start of construction. This way you will get by with less financial and labor costs.

Supply air duct pipe.

The inflow device ensures the supply of air masses from the environment by drawing air through the intake opening (vent). The vent is most often located near the side wall of the main building - the elevation above the level of the house blind area should be 20-30 cm.

The hole in the pipe itself is covered with a ventilation grill. If necessary, a grating can be provided. The air duct is laid through the base of the house, the basement floor and introduced into the basement. Outlet ventilation stretch almost to the floor cellars, retreating 15-20 cm. Thanks to this arrangement ventilation duct cool air from the street enters the duct, passes through it and enters the basement near the floor. After this, it is gradually heated and displaced upper layers warm and humidified air from the basement through the exhaust duct.

System for the outflow of contaminated masses.

It is located in the opposite corner of the cellar room, diagonally relative to the supply pipe. The main principle is the need to capture heated air. This is achieved by placing the pipe entrance right under the basement ceiling (10-15 cm from it). Next, the exhaust duct passes through the ceiling of the main building, through the attic to the roof.

Depending on the shape of the roof and the prevailing wind rose, it is necessary to achieve conditions under which the wind will be directed towards the previously installed one. A deflector is needed in any case, as it protects the pipe from atmospheric precipitation entering it. It also additionally creates negative pressure under the cover, due to which the air flow in the pipe increases.

The longer the exhaust duct, the stronger the flow of exhaust air in it.

The exhaust duct should be equipped in several layers to create the necessary insulation. To do this, at the stage of planning the premises and utility networks of the house:

  • install a brick or wooden well for a pipe cellar ventilation;
  • choose a place to lay insulation between the well and the pipe;
  • wrap the pipe itself with a special insulation that will not absorb moisture.

It is necessary to insulate the exhaust air duct in order to prevent air condensation due to sudden cooling during the cold period.

Regarding the last two points, it is worth noting that only double thermal insulation can provide resistance to duct freezing. If the region where the house and basement are located suggests abnormal low temperatures, you additionally need to create an air gap between the main insulation and the insulation on the pipe itself. This solution will significantly reduce the thermal conductivity of the channel as a whole.

Single channel ventilation

In rare cases, when the cellar area is less than 5 sq.m., it is possible to combine the oxygen inflow and outflow channels in one pipe. This is the basic principle of operation of this system and the main difference from a two-channel arrangement. The pipe is separated by a partition, through which two circulation channels are obtained: one for inflow, the second for exhaust.

Natural or forced exhaust?

To deal with this issue, you need to conduct an experiment with an existing natural ventilation in the cellar under the house. To do this you will need to bring thin sheet paper to the outlet openings of the channel in the basement and determine, by the swaying of the sheet, the presence of movement of air masses.

This experiment is suitable for basements with an area of ​​up to 10 sq.m. If the basement is more than 10 sq.m., then, even if there is oxygen movement inside the room, the efficiency natural exhaust may be in doubt.

For a relatively large room, you need to purchase a hygrometer. This device measures air humidity. The presence of a thermometer is mandatory for any size basement.

To determine the degree of ventilation, it is necessary to install a device that measures air humidity. It should be installed approximately 1.5 meters from the floor.

This is important, since the humidity will be highest near the ceiling. But vegetables are mostly stored on the floor. Therefore, it is necessary to measure the average humidity of the room.

At high hygrometer readings (over 85-90%), it is necessary to install a forced ventilation schemes in the cellar.

Forced (mechanical) exhaust system

Remake DIY ventilation in the cellar won't be difficult. To do this, you need to install axial fans inside the air ducts. This will increase circulation. For the supply duct, the fan is placed at the entrance on a protective grille. Accordingly, the exhaust duct is supplied with a fan directly at the entrance to the basement.

There is no doubt that having a basement has always been practical, profitable and even prestigious. They were erected under residential buildings, garages, sheds, and even allocated space as a separate building. However, any room is of little use if there is no air circulation.

This can be especially true for those that are underground, have no windows and often only one door. Meanwhile, ventilating a cellar with your own hands is not such a difficult task even for the average person who is far from professional knowledge in construction.

What are the consequences of lack of air circulation?

Constant or periodic renewal of air in an underground room is necessary for:

  • Normalization of humidity;
  • Enrichment of air with oxygen;
  • Maintaining optimal temperature.

Of course, the main purpose of cellars and basements is to store food supplies. Moisture is a constant companion of any underground room, and for most vegetables and fruits it is an undesirable factor for long-term storage.

In the air space of even a spacious basement, they accumulate over time. harmful substances. Unfortunately, when storing vegetables and fruits, unpleasant odors may appear. Ensuring healthy breathing for a person and opening access to fresh air from outside is one of the main tasks of ventilation in the cellar.

Another value of the basement is the presence of optimal temperature at any time of the year. Effective ventilation of the cellar is almost the primary component here. Coolness in the sultry summer and comfortable warmth in the winter will be the key to the safety of food in your basement, and fresh air and optimal humidity- help him in this.

Cellar ventilation with two pipes

How does cellar ventilation work? The principle of operation of ventilation is extremely simple - air from outside enters the room through one pipe, and leaves it through the other.

If everything were so simple, it would probably not be worth starting to write this article, and therefore, let’s look at the subtleties and nuances of how to do cellar ventilation with your own hands.

It is considered the most correct to plan the hood into the cellar at the design stage of the structure. This will significantly save free space and eliminate additional hassle during the operation of the basement.

Theoretically, the diameters, or more precisely the cross-sectional area, of the supply and exhaust pipes should be equal. Let's consider this the first rule of effective ventilation in the cellar. This condition will ensure uniform air exchange inside, prevent hypothermia in winter and eliminate air stagnation in summer.

The second rule on how to make ventilation in a cellar is to remove the exhaust and supply pipes as far as possible from each other. Ideally, they should be located in opposite corners. This will ensure maximum room coverage and eliminate the formation of areas with stagnant air.

Third, place the pipes at different heights. As is known, air movement occurs due to vacuum, which is created by placing the outlet of the supply pipe much lower than the exhaust pipe.

The fourth rule according to which ventilation in the cellar works is that the height of the pipe above the ground must be at least one and a half meters. If another room is located above the basement (for example, a garage), the exhaust pipe must be higher than the roof ridge. With this option, the supply pipe can even be located in the basement of the building. Don't forget to take care to limit access to the air duct. A mesh or lattice will prevent small rodents and curious birds from entering the basement. An umbrella on the exhaust pipe or a deflector will not only prevent rain and snow from penetrating inside, but will also create additional draft in the system.

Fifth, cellar ventilation does not like obstacles. This means that you should strive for a minimum number of turns, bends and changes in the diameter of the exhaust and discharge pipes.

The sixth rule on which ventilation in a cellar works is taking care of its thermal insulation. This will prevent the formation of condensation inside the pipe and, as a result, its entry into the basement.

There are options when the role of the exhaust pipe is played by hatches (manholes) into the basements. At certain intervals they are left open and the air is renewed, and the ventilation of the cellar occurs due to the room located above or directly due to the street.

Exhaust fan for range hood

What is ventilation like in the cellar?

After familiarization with design features ventilation operation, consider their division according to the principle of operation.

There are two of them:

  • Natural;
  • Forced.

Of course, the choice of one or another system is, first of all, determined by the area of ​​the room that requires ventilation. The cellar can be miniature, 4-6 square meters, or it can be the size of a comfortable apartment. It is logical that with the second option with air purification natural ventilation it will be quite difficult to cope with.

Here you will need forced activation of air flows or, in simple terms, installation on the exhaust and supply pipes. In this case, ventilation in the cellar will require additional piping components for the installation of electrical appliances, power supply and maintenance costs. Here they usually resort to the help of professionals and acquire finished project ventilation systems for a certain volume and area of ​​the cellar.

Installation of a hood in a cellar

How to make ventilation in the cellar?

Ventilation in the cellar, both in natural and forced versions, is considered to be based on the calculation of the sufficient diameter of the pipelines.

The formula here is simple:

cellar area (unit of measurement - square meter) multiply by 26. The resulting result will be equal to the desired cross-sectional area in centimeters.

Example:

the basement is 4 m long and 2 m wide or 4x2 = 8 sq.m

8x26=208 sq.cm

As you know, the area of ​​a circle is S=πR².

From here we get:

R=√S/πor √208/3.14 = 8.14 cm, and this is half of the desired value.

Thus, the required pipe diameter will be 162.8 mm. The closest size according to GOST is 168 mm - this will be the best option for the supply and exhaust ventilation pipes of your cellar.

Note

As a worthy alternativeThe alternative is to make ventilation in the cellar frommetallicXpipes can benameasbestos-cementeor polymerice.

The pipes are fastened to the walls using clamps, and when passing through the ceilings - with cement-sand mortar. Don't forget the use of insulating materials. To get through roofs airtight, you should call on a set of standard roofing parts to help.

After installing the pipelines, it is time to carry out technological tests. The easiest way is with a torch, match or lighter fire. At the outlet of the supply pipe, the flame must experience an incoming air flow. On the exhaust - traction towards the street. More safe way- using a sheet of thin paper.

How to make ventilation in the cellar effective

After the tests, it is quite natural to want to speed up the process of putting your basement into operation. However, proper air circulation is only half the construction. Care should be taken to limit the access of moisture to the basement. Walls and floors are excellent conductors of it. To combat this phenomenon, we recommend treating it several times. concrete surfaces sealant deep penetration, and lay a layer of moisture insulator on the floor. They can be proven , and others. Do not forget about the need for a layer of hermetically sealed insulator (after all, these substances are not 100% environmentally friendly).

Note

Capital equipment for the basement floor will require quite a significant financial investment. Simpler and more environmental solution- make a clay floor.

Clay is an excellent natural insulator. The technology for making a floor from it is quite simple. A layer of wet clay 10-12 cm is laid on a compacted layer of sand (5-8 cm), followed by compaction. Medium-sized stones can add effectiveness to the base. They will increase the adhesion of the clay and the hardness of the floor itself. In the name of aesthetics, it wouldn’t hurt to grout any rough spots. Perhaps the only drawback of a clay floor is the time it takes to completely dry - 30-40 days.

A basement in a household is a necessary thing, and efficient cellar ventilation is one of the main components of success. How to equip it with your own hands is not a complicated process, but important and necessary. Why? We hope this article has already answered these questions, although to discuss the nuances on this topic, we suggest continuing the conversation.

The basement is an integral part of a modern private house or cottage. It serves to house communications for heating and water supply systems, and can be used as a garage, workshop or vegetable storage. In any case, the basement needs to maintain a given level of temperature and humidity. Dampness negatively affects the safety of agricultural products, leads to the appearance of mold, destroys the walls of the house and negatively affects other objects. Properly equipped basement ventilation will help solve this problem.

Let us note the positive aspects of using ventilation systems in the basement and ground floor:

  • Comfortable microclimate in the house, there is no feeling of dampness on the ground floor;
  • Possibility to arrange a storage room, in which a constant temperature and moisture content in the air is maintained;
  • Increased service life load-bearing structures a residential building or cellar, especially if they are made of wood;
  • Operation of gas and heating equipment not possible in an unventilated area for safety reasons;
  • A dry basement will never cause mold spores., causing ARVI, allergies and asthma.

Species

All types of ventilation are divided into several types, depending on its purpose, complexity of arrangement and principle of operation. But the principle of operation of any of them will be based on the laws of physics on the movement of air masses. Cold air goes down, and the warm one rises up.

Natural supply ventilation

The simplest, vent system in the foundation or basement. It is installed during the construction of a house and consists of small holes in the upper part of the basement.

If the basement is located below ground level, then the hood is equipped with plastic or asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of 10-15 cm. They are brought above the surface to a height of 30 cm and covered with grates to prevent debris and rodents. This method is natural and depends on vibrations outside temperature, wind force, humidity.

When calculating it bandwidth 1/400 of the total area of ​​the basement is taken - this way we get the total area of ​​​​all vents.

The holes should be located on the leeward side, least susceptible to precipitation. At home with complex shape foundation and located in low-lying areas can have up to one hole every 3-4 meters. We close the vents with gratings on the outside.

This inexpensive option Well suited for ventilation of garages and non-residential basements or as an additional means to the main ventilation system.

Natural exhaust ventilation

Supply and exhaust type. For proper operation, you will need to install two pipes for ventilation, and the device supply and exhaust ventilation looks like this.

  • The first pipe is located under the very ceiling of the basement and is designed for the outflow of warm air. We place the exhaust pipe as high as possible, preferably at the level of the roof ridge. This is necessary to ensure good traction. The part of the pipe that is located on outdoors, must be insulated to prevent freezing in winter period and covered with a visor from precipitation.
  • The second pipe for the supply of fresh air is located at a height of 30-40 centimeters from the floor level, and we place its entrance on the street a meter above the ground and cover it with a grille. Convection will occur due to the temperature difference between the street and basement air. Such a system will work most effectively when the supply channels are spaced on different sides of the basement.

All natural exhaust ventilation systems have one drawback - their dependence on weather conditions and prevailing winds. It will not work if the temperature in the basement and outside are equal.

Forced

Applicable if natural supply ventilation cannot cope or is not physically able to use it. Typically used in the following cases:

  • Basement area from 40 m2 or has several rooms isolated from each other;
  • High humidity rooms when condensate in the exhaust duct freezes in winter and impairs the permeability of air masses;
  • The architecture of the house does not provide for high ventilation pipes;
  • The basement is equipped with a sauna, cafe, gym, workshop or other source of unpleasant odors.

The forced supply and exhaust ventilation device has a system of channels and fans that circulate air.

The main condition is to make the air constantly circulate, which is ensured by the synchronous operation of exhaust and supply fans. Their number is calculated depending on the volume of the cellar or basement and the throughput of the air ducts.

Supply and exhaust ventilation with heat recovery

For ground floor, in which it is planned permanent residence It is not enough to simply install a forced ventilation system. The room must be insulated and waterproofed. The issue of heating and heating is also resolved.

Increasingly, supply and exhaust with heat recovery is being built into such schemes.

Well-heated air enters the exhaust pipe, and in order not to release ready-made calories into the atmosphere, the air is passed through a special ceramic recuperator. When heated, it gives off heat to fresh air. The air flows do not intersect. The efficiency of such a device is 50-90% depending on the design of the heat exchanger. All heat recuperators are very reliable and do not require additional service and can last for decades.

Equipped with moisture traps, dust filters, sensors that monitor humidity and air temperature. For a residential premises, these indicators lie in the range of 50-65% relative humidity and 18-220C. Such systems are most often found in " smart homes", and their installation is complicated and should only be carried out by professionals.

Supply and exhaust ventilation device

Now let's look at how to make ventilation in the basement. The easiest way would be to make ventilation in the cellar or basement of the supply and exhaust type or forced.

First, let's do the calculation.

For 1 m2 of area there should be 25 cm2 of the cross-section of the air duct.

As the ceiling height or humidity increases, the diameter of the duct increases. Wooden box can be divided into two halves for supply and exhaust ventilation, but it is best to use plastic pipes or metal corrugated boxes.

Wooden ventilation parts must be treated against mold and painted.

The supply and exhaust ventilation device can be supplemented with a deflector on the roof of the house. It will create additional vacuum in the pipe and improve the release of warm air.

A controlled forced system will be much more effective with comparable labor costs. To do this, we will need special duct fans that operate on a voltage of 36 V. This feature is associated with the category of all basements that allow the use of only such currents.

Therefore, in electrical panel a transformer is installed that reduces the voltage from 220 V to 36 V. And the wiring must be laid in cable channels. These and other rules can be found in.

For Not large premises Only one such fan per exhaust arm will be sufficient. The flow of fresh air will be carried out due to the vacuum in the basement. But the efficiency of the system will be much higher if you install a second supply pump and combine their work into one control panel.

Now on sale you can find programmable control panels with temperature and humidity sensors, and the duct fans themselves are available in all sizes and are compatible with almost any ventilation ducts. For convenience, they are already built into the body, have a protective grille and replaceable filters.

As pipes for ventilation ducts V own home It is preferable to use PVC. They are strong and light enough to be attached to walls and ceilings using regular dowels. They are not afraid of moisture and temperature changes, and the cost is lower than steel structures.

Condensation will always form in the exhaust ventilation ducts, which must be removed periodically. For this purpose it is possible to provide special hole to drain water. Excess moisture leads to corrosion metal structures and increases the likelihood of duct freezing in winter. If this happens, you should definitely clean and defrost the channel.

Functionality check

Determining air circulation is quite simple. You can use an open flame for this. alcohol burner or candles or attach a sheet of paper to the opening of the exhaust duct. Good hood will hold the sheet securely. A thermometer installed in the area of ​​the supply air duct will not do any harm.

The following signs indicate poor ventilation in a basement or garage:

  • The appearance of condensation on the walls, and humidity exceeds 95%. The permissible maximum humidity for storing workpieces and crops is 85-90% at a temperature of 3-40C. For residential premises and garages, humidity levels should not exceed 40-50%;
  • Mold and fungal growths on the walls and ceiling;
  • Unpleasant smell indoors and heavy stale air;
  • Sudden changes in temperature they talk about an incorrect supply and exhaust ventilation device or errors in calculating the channel cross-section;
  • IN warm time condensation may not be noticeable, but in winter the walls will be covered abundantly with frost;
  • Carbon dioxide can accumulate in the cellar with vegetables. You can identify it by a dying candle or match. In this case, it is necessary to open all the dampers and ventilate for 24 hours, without going into the room without protective equipment.

The installation of ventilation systems will be much more effective if, together with it, measures are taken to maintain the microclimate:

  • Periodic ventilation with the opening of all doors and hatches. This requirement is especially relevant for cellar owners. It is best to do this in the summer, and remove all wooden objects from the cellar;
  • Treat walls regularly lime or special compounds. They will protect against mold and unpleasant smell indoors. An approximate recipe for this composition: 3 kg of lime and 50 g of copper sulfate per bucket of water;
  • You can combat excess moisture in the air with a sandbox., sawdust, salt, quicklime. Periodically, the box is taken out and thoroughly dried in the sun. In the cellar, you can leave the hole unlocked and cover it with old blankets or mattresses to improve air circulation;
  • Installation helps additional source heat (small stove, brazier, heater, lamp) or just a burning candle;
  • Waterproof the basement or cellars with bitumen compounds;
  • Install adjustable dampers for supply and exhaust ventilation. With their help, it will be possible to eliminate drafts and freezing of the basement in winter;
  • If the cellar is located in a garage, then it should have a separate ventilation system. High humidity a vegetable cellar is contraindicated for a car;
  • Install a regular home fan.

How much does it cost to do ventilation?

Provide a good microclimate in basement inexpensive. Simple options can be made from construction waste and scrap materials; more complex ones will require additional investments.

The cost of the entire system will be influenced by the following factors:

  • The area of ​​the basement and the height of the entire building. Using these parameters, the number and size of air ducts are calculated, which will make up a significant part of the entire project;
  • Air box material. PVC is cheaper, but has limitations on the size and maximum diameter of the pipe. Galvanized steel is more reliable and allows ventilation of any degree of complexity and configuration, but is much more expensive, heavier and may require special equipment;
  • Degree of automation (simple duct fan costs from 2000 rubles, switch from 1400 rubles);
  • The presence of complex and expensive additional devices - split systems, recuperators, dehumidifiers, hygrometers and sensors (the cost of such a turnkey system can exceed 100 thousand rubles);

Ventilation in the basement is important both for the safety of the food stored there and for the well-being of the entire home. The simplest options can be made independently or laid down during the construction stage. More complex types of ventilation will require special skills and experience. In any case, this system must always be in good working order and promptly serviced.

Every homeowner's dream is a clean, dry basement underneath their home. In a cellar used for storing vegetables with personal plot, a special microclimate must be maintained, characterized by low humidity and low positive temperature (1-2°C). To do this, even at the design stage of the house, a cellar ventilation scheme must be developed and included in the project. But often, in practice, everything looks sadder.

The miscalculation of the designer or the negligence of the builders lead to dismal results. Musty air, dampness, mold, mildew on the walls and shelves of the basement. And, as a result, spoiled harvest, rotting wooden elements structure and weakening of strength load-bearing elements. Fortunately, restoring or even re-creating the air exchange system - ventilation of the basement, although not simple, is feasible. Below we will look at examples of working ventilation schemes for basements located under a house, garage or barn.

Ventilation is based on the physical effect of warm air tending upward. In the classic air exchange scheme, two vertical shafts are installed at opposite ends of the room. The exit from one is located above the floor, and the entrance to the second is located under the ceiling. This is a supply and exhaust pipe systems. Cold air falls underground through the supply pipe under the influence of gravity. Warm air, on the contrary, tends to leave the room through the ventilation duct pipe located under the ceiling.

Types of ventilation systems

Natural two-pipe

This type of air exchange system is called two-pipe. And it seems the most appropriate for installation. When designing a basement ventilation system with two pipes, you need to start with the correct mathematical calculation of the flow sections of the ventilation air ducts. According to current standards, one square meter of room must have at least 25 cm2 of flow area ventilation shaft. Knowing this ratio, it is easy to calculate the required diameter. The table below shows the calculation values ​​for typical basements.

Cross section values ​​for small basements

Basement area, m2
4 6 8 9 10 12 15 18
Air duct cross-section, cm2 104 156 208 234 260 312 390 468
Pipe diameter 11 14 16 17 18 20 22 25

Important! When designing an air exchange system for a basement or cellar, it is necessary to use pipes with a cross-section larger than the calculated one by 10 - 15%. And provide valves or flaps in the channels. This will provide a reserve of system power and allow you to regulate its performance.

Also, when developing a project, the following aspects should be taken into account:

  • pipes or air duct shafts should have as few corners, bends and bends as possible. The ideal shaft is a straight vertical pipe.
  • the exhaust pipe in its upper part must be insulated to avoid condensation.
  • also, the exhaust pipe should be 25-30 cm higher than the roof ridge and have a cap at the top to prevent precipitation from getting inside.
  • the supply pipe is usually led through the foundation and is located just above ground level.
  • the inlet of the supply pipe must be filled with fine metal mesh or grate. To prevent rodents, birds and other small animals from entering the basement.
  • The supply and exhaust pipes must be of the same diameter, and the performance of the system is regulated by dampers.

Natural single pipe

A single-pipe system is less productive, since in this case the air duct shaft is made of two channels, and it is difficult to separate the incoming and outgoing air flow. But, despite the low efficiency, such systems are still used in cellars with one pipe in cases where it is too expensive to connect two pipes to different ends of the room. See photo below.


For a basement in a garage or in a private house, a conventional cellar ventilation system with natural circulation, but for large rooms this is no longer enough.

Forced ventilation system


For a basement in a garage or in a small private house, a conventional cellar ventilation system with natural circulation is sufficient, but for large rooms this is no longer enough. Therefore, in large areas, or in which for some reason the installation of natural ventilation is difficult, forced ventilation is used. The air movement in it is provided by electric fans. Forced ventilation There are several types:

  • exhaust;
  • supply;
  • supply and exhaust systems;

The type of system is determined by where the fan is installed. And it is selected based on local conditions.

It should be noted that for a large basement vegetable storage good decision forced exhaust ventilation with natural inflow will be used.

The advantage of such systems is good performance, regardless of the number of bends and turns of the air line, as well as the ability to include additional devices in the system - such as air filtration and purification systems, electric heating, automatic on/off based on temperature or gas levels. It is better to entrust the design and installation of such systems to specialists, which will undoubtedly pay off in the future.

Professional calculation and installation of air exchange systems

Despite the apparent simplicity of the underground space ventilation system, it can be difficult for a non-specialist to correctly calculate ventilation, much less install such a system with their own hands. Because during the installation process, unexpected situations usually arise, and it can be difficult for a person without experience in such work to cope with them. Especially when it comes to drilling monolithic foundation or laying air ducts through the ceilings of the first and second floors. In such cases, it is better to entrust the work to specialists who will quickly and with a guarantee carry out everything. necessary work from design to installation. And they will save the owner from this headache, who will only have to accept the work and enjoy the wonderful microclimate that has formed in his basement.

To ensure that errors in design and installation are avoided engineering systems, you can order ventilation projects for public and private buildings and premises from the Mega.ru company. You can contact us by going to the page.